LVMH TAPS UNIT HEADS/2 IRA NEIMARK’S RETAIL LESSONS/10 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • November 24, 2003 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Shell Sensation NEW YORK — There’s nothing quite like a day at the seaside collecting shells, and accessories designers seem to have spent the summer doing exactly that. This season, they’re using them as trim or allover patterns on handbags, jewelry and shoes. Here, Oscar de la Renta’s shell and turquoise-detailed suede pouch and Emanuel Ungaro’s metallic leather, suede and plastic high-heeled sandal. For more, see pages 6 and 7.

Contract Battle: Limited Beats May in Court and Gets Exec By David Moin May Co. regarding the recruitment Limited’s Victoria’s Secret Stores NEW YORK — In a ruling that could of a senior executive. division, on the grounds that he was have significant implications for As reported, May Co. attempted violating a non-compete clause in his industry non-compete provisions in to prevent Mark Weikel, former contract. But Limited sued May Co. contracts, Limited Brands scored a chairman of its Foley’s division in retaliation. court victory late last week over based in Houston, from joining See Court, Page 11 PHOTO BY DAVID TURNER; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT TURNER; STYLED BY DAVID PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 WWDMONDAY LVMH Taps CEOs for Lacroix, Kenzo Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Miles Socha marketing and sales for food and fragrance firms. GENERAL Steiner has been with LVMH since 1997, join- FASHION: They sell seashells: Designers often look to nature for inspiration PARIS — LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton ing as European president of Louis Vuitton after 6 and for spring accessories they’ve turned to the natural beauty of seashells. did the corporate shuffle again Friday, naming stints at airport retailer Saresco and consulting A strong euro and weak dollar are hammering European balance sheets new chief executives for its Christian Lacroix firms Arthur Andersen and Boston Consulting and threatening Americans’ ability to purchase goods from the continent. and Kenzo fashion houses. Group. After a brief stint as head of LVMH’s 2 Francois Steiner, chief executive officer at fashion group in Europe, he was named ceo of BEAUTY BEAT: Diego Dalla Palma has reentered the cosmetics market in a LVMH-owned Thomas Pink, was named presi- Thomas Pink in July 2001. 3 flurry of color that has seen a 30 percent increase in sales in six months. dent and chief executive officer of Kenzo, con- At Kenzo, Steiner is charged with expanding LVMH did the corporate shuffle again Friday, naming new chief executives firming a report in these columns Wednesday. He its fashion business, working with its new for its Christian Lacroix and Kenzo fashion houses. starts Monday, succeeding Vincent Huguenin, women’s wear designer, Italian Antonio Marras, 2 who exits the group after 14 months in the post. who shows his first Kenzo collection in March, Jeff Walker, a Koch executive, will become chairman and ceo of Invista, At Lacroix, Geoffroy de La Bourdonnaye during Paris fashion week. 3 with Steve McCracken tapped as president and chief operating officer. will succeed Jean Pierre Debu, who is retiring Steiner’s successor at Thomas Pink has yet to May Co. lost its court attempt to prevent a former executive from working early next year. Debu, who’s been at the helm be named. at Victoria’s Secret. The ruling has implications for non-compete clauses. of Lacroix since May 2000, had been a member The appointments came only days after LVMH 1 of Kenzo’s management team for eight years said Jeffry M. Aronsson, ceo of Marc Jacobs EYE: A chat with Rosie Stancer, great niece of the late Queen Mother, who has prior to that. International, would become head of Donna 4 embarked on a solo trek to the South Pole…tea time with Candace Bushnell. De La Bourdonnaye will join LVMH after 11 Karan International, succeeding Fred Wilson, years at Euro Disney, most recently as vice presi- who is becoming president and chief executive Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 dent and managing director of its merchandise of Saks Fifth Avenue. Aronsson’s successor at and retail division. Before that, he worked in Jacobs has yet to be named. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is [email protected], using the individual's name.

WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2003 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 186, NO. 108. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays with one additional issue every month except July and two additional issues in April and September and three in August) by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Industry’s Weak Dollar Woes Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. 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Reluctance to raise prices has tended to limit the abilities of Europeans with U.S. distribution over the past year, closing at $1.19 Bergdorf Goodman, agreed it’s MONDAY: Eleanor Lambert Memorial, New York. to pass along increases. on Friday, and there is concern best to think long term. The After approaching an unprece- over how long the situation will store hasn’t cut back on orders, TUESDAY: The Conference Board reports on dented exchange rate of $1.20 at last. Still, most observers say it’s due to the strong euro. November Consumer Confidence. one point last week, 12 cents not yet time to panic. “I don’t anticipate…that [the Kellwood Co. and Bon-Ton Stores report on third- more than in early September, “The most important thing is euro] could stay at this level. If it quarter results. the euro backed off. Still, it re- price stability, not tricks, and does, we’ll have to regroup,” he mains at or near historical highs, our prices are stable,” said said. “You hope to weather the WEDNESDAY: The Federal Reserve issues its Beige the dollar-euro parity of late 1999 Hugo Boss spokesman Philipp storm, but if you cut everything, Book economic report. a distant memory. That means Wolff, who added it’s better to basically you’re limiting your American dollars translate into sacrifice some revenue in the ability to do business.” THURSDAY: Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, New York less revenue, and ultimately less short term than risk losing cus- Niels Thygesen, an econom- profit, when collected on the tomers. “You get it back. You ics professor at the University of SUNDAY: Modaprima, Milan (through Dec. 2)

European side of the Atlantic. can’t play with the consumer.” Copenhagen, said price hikes COMING THIS WEEK The currency has appreciated Robert Burke, vice president aren’t likely in the near term for 13.2 percent against the dollar and senior fashion director at Continued on page 13 In Brief

New Trade Blueprint Vexing ● KIMMEL TO BE HONORED: The Anti-Defamation League will honor Sidney Kimmel, chairman and founder of Jones Apparel By Kristi Ellis Western Hemisphere, encompassing every country Group, with its Eastern Pennsylvania/Delaware region’s 26th an- but Cuba and stretching from Alaska to Tierra del nual Americanism Award. The award will be presented at the WASHINGTON — The top trade officials from 34 Fuego by 2005. ADL’s annual regional dinner gala on Dec. 1 at the Kimmel countries agreed on a blueprint in Miami last However, the U.S. and Brazil have been at logger- Center for the Performing Arts in Philadelphia. The week that appears to scale back the scope of a heads over the scope of the trade pact for more than a Americanism Award recognizes leaders in business, community hemispheric trade zone and make its long-term year and they did not resolve any of the major issues affairs and charitable endeavors who have distinguished them- future uncertain. in Miami. Many skeptics claimed the two largest selves in advancing the causes of human rights, dignity and Trade ministers signed off on a declaration economies in the Western Hemisphere crafted an ob- equal opportunity. Kimmel is a philanthropist in the areas of that set parameters and advanced the talks for the tuse declaration in Miami in order to get an agree- cancer research, education, Jewish community and the arts. pact known as the Free Trade Area of the ment and avoid another Cancún, where global trade Americas, but the declaration was so vaguely talks imploded earlier this year because rich and ● MORRIS FLEES BLUEFLY: Jonathan Morris, executive vice worded and contained so many blanks that it sent poor countries could not bridge their vast differences. president and corporate secretary of Bluefly Inc., resigned from a wave of confusion through the trade community. The U.S. had been pushing for a comprehensive the company. The Internet discount retailer said it plans to re- Retailer and wholesale importers voiced concern free-trade deal that would create rules covering in- tain Morris, a co-founder of the firm, as a consultant. Morris was that the U.S. might be stepping back from a compre- tellectual property, foreign investment and govern- responsible for business development, legal affairs, strategic hensive FTAA, while domestic textile representa- ment procurement, in addition to lowering tariffs on marketing and e-commerce initiatives. The company is conduct- tives claimed it was another sign that countries are industrial and agriculture products. However, Brazil ing an external search for a successor. In the interim, Morris’ re- not willing to accept one-size-fits-all trade deals. and many other developing countries claimed the sponsibilities will be assumed by Melissa Payner-Gregor, the According to the declaration, countries can have rules covering intellectual property rights, govern- company’s president. different levels of commitment and pick and choose ment procurement and foreign investment should the areas of the negotiations in which they want to be handled in the World Trade Organization. ● CFO TO GO: William Hodge, chief financial officer of participate. How that will play when trade officials At the same time, the U.S. also claimed agricul- Hampshire Group Ltd., has resigned from the firm “to pursue get down to negotiating politically sensitive areas ture subsidies and antidumping laws should be other business opportunities,” the company said Friday. Charles such as agriculture or textiles and apparel is unclear. handled in the WTO, but developing countries led Clayton, treasurer and former cfo of the Anderson, S.C.-based The FTAA, launched in 1994 under former by Brazil pushed aggressively for their inclusion in sweater and sportswear marketer, will assume Hodge’s duties president Bill Clinton as an outgrowth of NAFTA, the FTAA talks. until a permanent successor is designated. aims to create the largest trade zone in the Continued on page 11 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 3 Marzotto Sees Valentino Turnaround Fashion Scoops MILAN — Marzotto is not expecting profit and revenue (32.5 million euros) the year before. Sales rose 7.6 per- FACE TIME: When Jennifer “special relationship” growth this year, but the company’s executives told an- cent to $137.77 million (115.9 million euros) from Lopez was the face of your between Britain and the U.K. alysts Thursday that 2004 should be brighter, citing a $128.02 million (107.7 million euros). On an operating last ad campaign, how do you going back to Queen Victoria. double-digit jump in Valentino’s spring orders and the level, Valentino swung into the black with a profit of top it? With six beautiful There was only one rule — successful restructuring of the textile division, which $5.59 million (4.7 million euros) from a loss of $13.91 faces, of course. That’s what nothing to do with war. has been losing money over the million (11.7 million euros) the Louis Vuitton is doing next last few years. year earlier. Marzotto said season, organizing a mega- GLAD RAGS: Rag dolls have Marzotto said its consolidated Valentino’s full-year revenue model reunion of sorts. The never been so trendy. Unicef 2003 earnings before interest and growth should be in line with that spring spots, slated to break has asked 95 designers and taxes and sales should come in of the nine-month period while net in February magazines, artists, including Giorgio line with those figures for full-year losses should decrease. feature Kate Moss, Naomi Armani, Gianfranco Ferré and 2002. In 2002, EBIT was $148.94 Marzotto said spring wholesale Campbell, Amber Valletta, Krizia to dress a doll called million (converted from 125.3 mil- orders at Valentino were up 20 Angela Lindvall, Liya Kebede the “Pigotta” for an auction lion euros at current exchange), percent. The company also said and Karen Elson. that will help vaccinate while sales were $2.13 billion (1.79 that retail sales at directly owned Photographers Mert Alas and children in need around the billion euros). stores had reversed their negative Marcus Piggott shot the world. The auction will be Chief executive and vice chair- trend in the first part of the year. gaggle of beauties last month held in the northeastern Italy man Antonio Favrin said reduced Sales fell 2 percent in the first in the desert near Dubai. town of Reggio Emilia, close losses at the textile division and half, were flat in July and dropped Each represents a different to Bologna, on Saturday. Marzotto’s strategic decision to 11.1 percent in August. Things category: ready-to-wear, The pigotta dressed by focus more on the group’s three picked up in the latter part of the jewelry, shoes and Armani is called Silvanella. strong brands — Hugo Boss, year. Sales were up 13.7 percent in accessories. “It felt a little bit The designer said he was Valentino and rugged sportswear September, 31.8 percent in October like old times — that inspired by a child from the line Marlboro Classics — is start- and 15 percent in the first half of supermodel outing thing,” south “who loves to dance ing to pay off. November. Michele Norsa, quipped Marc Jacobs, and sing.” Silvanella wears a “We’ve reached the objectives Valentino’s ceo and Marzotto’s gen- Vuitton’s creative director, fuchsia satin dress with we set forth,” he said at an analyst eral manager for apparel, down- who was along for the shoot. black leather straps and meeting here. played the importance of the “They really look like desert black hose with the Marzotto executives said they Christmas season for Valentino as goddesses and they really got designer’s logo, all inspired are pleased with the turnaround of brand’s sales are not gift-driven. into it.” Jacobs confessed by next spring’s Emporio Valentino, which the company In other Marzotto news, Hugo that Vuitton, pleased with the collection. bought in 2002. The company has Boss ceo Bruno Sälzer said Boss J.Lo spots, would have liked Ferré named his doll been working to increase sales Woman is overcoming its botched to continue down the Hanako, which in Japanese through measures like launching start in 2001 and should post sales celebrity path, but he felt a means “the flower maiden.” the diffusion line R.E.D., diversify- of about $59.44 million (50 million new concept was needed — Hanako wears a white ing into new product categories like A look from Valentino’s spring 2004 line. euros) in 2003 and more than and the models rose to the organza blouse, silk-lined watches through licensing pacts $71.32 million (60 million euros) in challenge. “They all look like and bolstering its wholesale presence in U.S. stores. 2004. Net losses at the division should be $3.57 million posters,” he said of the ads, Valentino narrowed its net loss for the nine months (3 million euros) this year, and the unit should break which are still being ended Sept. 30 to $14.15 million (converted from 11.9 even in 2004. retouched. “It’s very iconic: million euros at current exchange) from $38.63 million — Amanda Kaiser gorgeous, rich and luxurious.” Sounds very Vuitton.

PALACE COUP: President Bush may be back home from his Koch Puts Together Invista Exec Team London trip, but Buckingham Palace is still recovering from NEW YORK — Eight directors and key leaders have been ap- include six executives of Koch Industries: Charles Koch, his visit. The members of the pointed to guide the Invista company when the acquisition of chairman and ceo; Joe Moeller, chairman and chief operating President’s huge entourage the former DuPont textiles unit is completed by Koch officer; Steve Feilmeier, chief financial officer; John were all so keen to say that Industries Inc. Pittenger, senior vice president, and two executive vice presi- they had slept at the palace DuPont said last week it had reached an agreement to sell dents, Bill Caffey and Rick Fink. that Queen Elizabeth II’s poor its Invista unit to privately held Koch Industries for $4.4 bil- Also upon closing, George Gregory, currently president and ladies-in-waiting all had to lion in cash, as reported. The deal is expected to close in the ceo of Koch’s KoSa unit, will be named an Invista senior vice move out for the duration of first half of 2004. When Invista is merged with Koch’s KoSa president, reporting to Walker. Additional members of the the Americans’ stay. Their polyester unit, a most likely move according to the Koch com- leadership team will be named in the near future. temporary quarters? The pany, the result will be a massive fiber enterprise with rev- Walker, currently president of Koch Nitrogen Co., has held nearby Goring Hotel on enues exceeding $9 billion. posts with a number of Koch operating and trading compa- bustling Buckingham Palace Jeff Walker, a 19-year Koch company veteran, will be named nies. He helped lead Koch Nitrogen’s expansion in the global Road — comfortable, but far chairman of Invista’s board and chief executive officer. Invista’s nitrogen fertilizer markets, with acquisitions of more than from a palace. current president, Steve McCracken, will serve on the board, re- $400 million in 2003. He has served as board chairman and Meanwhile, the royals Giorgio Armani’s Silvanella main president and will also become chief operating officer. president of FertiNitro, an $11 billion Venezuelan fertilizer were extra-careful not to doll for Unicef. Asked about Invista’s future plans, McCracken said, production complex in which a Koch Mineral Services sub- upset Bush’s sensibilities. “KoSa will be merged into Invista and Invista will be merged sidiary is an investor. The queen’s librarian was leather obi and mannish wool into Koch. We are trying to look at what vision and future McCracken is a 28-year veteran of DuPont and was instru- asked two weeks before the pinstripe pants. there will be, because this isn’t a done deal until the first or mental in positioning Invista and its predecessor operations for President arrived to arrange Krizia’s namesake pigotta second quarter of 2004.” strategic development globally. McCracken’s well-rounded career an exhibit for the wears a black leather He added, “I would expect the Invista headquarters will at DuPont includes finance, planning, marketing, operations Buckingham Palace picture miniskirt, purple legwarmers be in Wichita.” and business management positions in the U.S. and Europe. gallery of royal books and and a bright green knit In addition to Walker and McCracken, Invista’s board will — Karyn Monget photos that showed the sweater.

euros) in advertising and $1.83 million (1.6 This fall, the company has released Sales Boost for Diego Dalla Palma Cosmetics million euros) in point of purchase materi- nine products to complete the 200-sku al and merchandising. The effects, accord- line. Oil-free foundation, liquid eyeliner MILAN — Diego Dalla Palma has reen- ing to the company, have been outstanding. and tanning products feature in the new tered the cosmetics market in a flurry of All dollar figures releases, as does a relaunch of an old color that has seen a 30 percent increase have been convert- product — rice powder for fixing founda- in sales in six months. ed from the euro at tion. These products are priced between The cosmetics firm, under new man- BEAUTY BEAT current exchange $17.22 and $34.45 (15 and 30 euros). agement, relaunched its line with brand- rates. The company is also planning to align new packaging and products beginning “We have heard reports of customers itself with future fashion events in Milan, in March 2003. who have been tearing the page from including sponsoring events for young Glossy white square packaging with magazines of our advertisement featur- designers. defined black lines set the products ing the striking blue eye shadow which — Stephanie Epiro apart from the old stockkeeping units, An item from the Diego was used and bringing it to a perfumery which were popular in the Eighties. The Dalla Palma line. store,” said Grazia Zuccarini, brand man- relaunch has seen the company rere- ager of Diego Dalla Palma. All Aboard for Bulgari lease some 200 products. professional makeup artist brand but al- Despite the increase in sales, the com- NEW YORK — As part of a promotion for Points of sale in Italy have been de- ways with a modern slant on the future,” pany says they are expecting a turnover its new fragrance Omnia, Bulgari is blan- creased from 890 to 700 within the past said De Nadai. “We reduced the number of $7.34 million (6.4 million euros), which keting Grand Central Terminal this six months. The reason, according to of points of sales to choose those that is a similar figure to the turnover of 2002. month, displaying ad visuals and passing Vittorio De Nadai, general director of could properly show our newly innovated Looking forward, Diego Dalla Palma out scented pieces at the terminal. The holding company AGGF, is to position the merchandising.” is aiming to expand to Russia, Europe activities are taking place in corridors in line more selectively. To kick-start the launch, the company and the United Kingdom. At the moment the train station’s northeastern and “Our goal is to maintain our ethos as a invested some $1.4 million (1.2 million there are no plans to enter America. northwestern areas. 4 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003

Rosie Stancer on ice.

Great Niece CALVIN KLEIN PARTY BY STEVE EICHNER; J. MENDEL TEA BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA STEVE EICHNER; J. MENDEL TEA BY BY KLEIN PARTY CALVIN

LONDON — There’s something about those Bowes-Lyon women. Stancer isn’t the only Antarctic adventurer in the family. Her grandfather, William Britain’s late Queen Mother, born Elizabeth Bowes-Lyon, smiled Spencer Granville, was selected for Capt. Robert Falcon Scott’s original Antarctic and waved her way to the age of 101 after guiding her husband King team in 1910, but was later rejected because he was too tall for the tents. Her eye® George VI — and her nation — through hard times. But last week, one husband’s grandfather, James Wordie, took part in Sir Ernest Shackleton’s legendary of her great nieces, Rosie Stancer, embarked on another sort of 1914 Antarctic expedition. endurance test: A solo trek to the South Pole. If she succeeds, she’ll be During this trip, she’ll be packing in 5,000 calories a day, eating her way through the first British woman to do so. daily rations of Snickers bars, dehydrated food, full-fat butter, salami, cheese, nuts With her cousins Prince Charles and the Earl of Lichfield among her patrons, and porridge. She’ll be dragging her sled with its supplies more than 600 miles. Stancer will attempt to reach the Pole by February. Photographer Patrick Lichfield, To insulate herself from temperatures that will drop as low as minus 40 degrees, whose mother Anne was a Bowes-Lyon, has taught Stancer Stancer ordered a bespoke wardrobe for the trip, about cameras, and the Prince has promised to call her on I don’t see it as pitting including Norwegian-made canvas lace-up boots, fleeces, the satellite phone on Christmas Day. “ an all-in-one flying suit — and a fur hat. Stancer’s trek, sponsored by Snickers, will raise money for myself against the elements — “The fur traps the air in such a way that it creates a Special Olympics Great Britain. But the 43-year-old married microclimate around the face,” says Stancer, adding that mother of one says the journey is a personal challenge. I’m trying to work with them. she’ll wear a “full Darth Vader face mask” to complete “Maybe it’s a very primitive urge to test one’s self to the ” the look. extreme. And I don’t see it as pitting myself against the Despite the difficult conditions she’ll face, Stancer is elements — I’m trying to work with them. I’ll cease to regard — Rosie Stancer looking forward to returning to the cold continent. “The the cold as hostile,” says Stancer in a pretrip interview at Joe Allen in Covent Garden. Antarctic is not as colorful as the Arctic, but it is so vast in scale and majestic and haunting A petite blonde in a hot pink sweater, Stance doesn’t exactly look like the type with all its shades of white.” She describes seeing parhelions — 360-degree halos around who spends time hauling tires around Richmond Park in preparation for dragging the sun — ice crystals that float like fairy dust through the air, and the menacing whiteouts her 440-pound sled. But her business card, decorated with a pair of hot pink with their zero visibility, which Stancer expects to encounter once every three days. stilettos on skis, says it all. “I dread them. With no edge to your world, it feels like walking inside a ping-pong In 1997, Stancer took part in the first all-female relay expedition to the North Pole ball,” she says. She also fears things like her tent blowing away or catching fire, the on foot. Three years later, she trekked to the South Pole with four other women, part loss of use of her hands, and, of course, the loneliness. “There is nothing in the of the first British female team to walk there unguided. “It was all very emotional interior — even the wildlife lives on the outer edges of the ice pack.” when we got to the South Pole. There’s an American base there and they played ‘God Still, Stancer believes she’s prepared. “The physical training gives you Save the Queen’ and gave us champagne,” says Stancer. “It was a horrid shock when psychological confidence,” she says. “What will also be propelling me is the charity, we looked in the mirror and saw how thin we’d all become. But there was a real sense the notion of getting back to my family, and the responsibility I have to my sponsors.” of fulfillment, a feeling of complete self-sufficiency.” — Samantha Conti

TEA AND SYMPATHY: Candace Bushnell, in a smart tweed jacket, was certainly dressed for a tea hosted by J. Mendel’s Gilles Mendel and Helen Schifter at Tracey Stern’s tea salon in the City Club hotel last week. But she wasn’t quite ready to drink anything so weak. While ladies such as Rena Sindi and Alex Kramer chose hibiscus or chai, Bushnell washed down her cucumber sandwiches and scones with champagne — perhaps in celebration of selling her book, “Trading Up,” to ABC for an ongoing series. “It could be sort of like ‘Dynasty’ or ‘Knots Landing,’” Bushnell said. “But one never knows with these things.” Meanwhile, Blaine Trump was reminiscing about how high tea changed her life. “I took my first job at Christie’s because they had a tea break at 4 o’clock,” Trump recalled. “It seemed so civilized.” At the Calvin Klein boutique that night, Kelly Klein stocked up on Jeff Koons designed T-shirts at a party hosted by the artist and Calvin Klein to benefit the International Centre for Missing and Exploited Children. While Koons turned designer to create the pop-inspired top, lately Calvin Klein has pursued his Gilles Mendel, Candace Jeff Koons, Calvin Klein and Kelly Klein. interest in photography. “The part I love best is the editing,” Klein said. “You Bushnell and Alex Kramer. can do it right there on the digital camera and crop anything you want.” WWD ACCESSORIES Perfect Bound Magazine: Jan. 26, 2004 Close: Dec. 23, 2003 The ultimate consumer shopping guide for accessories from the most plugged-in editors in fashion.

Timed to the spring shopping season, arriving to consumers just as the hottest spring handbags, sunglasses, shoes, belts and wallets hit the stores.

For more information on advertising in this special WWD perfect bound magazine, contact Ralph Erardy, SVP Group Publisher, at 212-630-4589, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® PHOTO: CHARLES MASTERS 6 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003

Ellen Tracy’s mother-of-pearl and cloth bag.

Shell Sensation NEW YORK — Designers have always looked to nature for inspiration, and spring is no exception, especially in accessories. The natural beauty of the sea and the shells that come from it, in fact, are the focus this season. WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 7

Soixante Diana Neuf’s shell, Broussard’s smoky quartz bag and and sterling shoes, both necklace at inin leatherleather Supplements. with abalone appliqué, at Seed.

Erickson Simon Beamon’s Alcantara’s painted shell mother-of- bracelet for pearl, Anna Sui at sterling Showroom silver and Seven. leatherleather Buddha necklace.

Chan Luu’s shell, leather and silk bag at Fragments.

Moyna’s burlap bags with shells at Supplements. PHOTOS BY DAVID TURNER; FASHION ASSISTANT: SHANA MURIK; STYLED BY ROXANNE ROBINSON-ESCRIOUT SHANA MURIK; STYLED BY ASSISTANT: TURNER; FASHION DAVID PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003

Innerwear Report

Leighigh Bantivoglio’sBantivoglio’s Banking on Newness to End Slump novelty lace top. By Karyn Monget the universal appeal of Queen Latifah and Curvation.” The Curvation line launched in October 2002 for dis- NEW YORK — The quest for fresh merchandise had a re- tribution to 2,900 Wal-Mart doors, and expanded to anoth- newed vigor at the November market, as the sluggish econ- er 206 Wal-Mart Canada doors in October 2003. The full- omy continues to batter retail and wholesale businesses, figure brand will be distributed to 1,510 Kmart stores and and consumers hold on to their disposable income. 145 Shopko stores, she said. In addition to new styles, bra Retailers are continuing to cautiously analyze which cup sizes have been expanded to 42DDD in select styles. lines of business for spring-summer can be expanded or Victor Lee, president of NAP Inc., said, “For spring, a discontinued. Merchants are looking for products, brands combination of Hollywood velours by Anne Lewin and and items that will differentiate them from competitors. honeycomb knits by Bill Blass have been booking very But a lot of orders going into the transitional and early well. Key at Crabtree & Evelyn is the waffle-pattern terry fall selling periods will depend on the results of business spa robe and related classic knits. A piqué-back baby loop at stores between Thanksgiving and Christmas, a crucial terry fabric by Anne Lewin continues to be very strong. time that typically is a barometer of consumer confidence. “Retailers are all looking to differentiate themselves Also adding to the anxiety is the move last week by from each other. They just don’t want the same old, the Bush administration to reimpose tem- same old anymore, and they are looking porary quotas on bras, robes, dressing for new fabrics.” gowns and knits imported from China. Howard Radziminsky, senior vice For some makers, especially smaller and president of sales and merchandising at mid-size firms that have increased fash- Movie Star Inc., said, “In Cinema Etoile ion offerings, as well as larger companies sleepwear, many key fashion items were that have diversified sourcing and manu- well received, like polyester charmeuse facturing in a variety of countries, it isn’t in lime, fuchsia, black or ecru trimmed in as much of an issue and could represent contrasting lace. But a new lace-up an opportunity, as opposed to the firms padded cup lace chemise is our best- that source large programs of innerwear booking garment of the market.” that could have to deal with reaching Also strong are bra camis, he said, which quota limits in the crucial fourth quarter. have been expanded to include stretch Marcia Leeds, president of Richard lace, a new cotton spandex style with a Leeds International, maker of French racer back, and a shiny, stretch satin span- Jenny sleepwear and related lifestyle dex cami. A new cotton piqué fabric in the items, said, “What’s currently driving the firm’s lifestyle loungewear line, Movie Star PHOTO OF BODY CREATIONS BY HANES HER WAY CAMI AND BRIEFS BY GEORGE CHINSEE; PHOTO OF LEIGH BANTIVOGLIO TOP BY JOHN AQUINO GEORGE CHINSEE; PHOTO OF LEIGH BANTIVOGLIO TOP BY CAMI AND BRIEFS BY HANES HER WAY BY CREATIONS PHOTO OF BODY business that’s being done at stores is Knits, has also been strong. JOHN AQUINO GEORGE CHINSEE; PHOTO OF LEIGH BANTIVOGLIO TOP BY CAMI AND BRIEFS BY HANES HER WAY BY CREATIONS PHOTO OF BODY newness. While newness has almost al- Todd Demakos, chief executive officer Ying Li, designer of luxe sleepwear and robes that ways driven business, it’s especially im- of St. Eve International, said several cate- bear her name, said, “November market was very good portant now when consumers don’t want gories have been strong, such as basic for me, especially for immediate deliveries. I opened to spend money. Consumers are buying camisoles in fashion colors, as well as three new specialty store accounts. My hand-painted items that are a little more fashion look- new lightweight mercerized cotton, silk robes always book well, but anything in luxe Italian ing, and less basic. Our character business pointelles and novelty lace trims. cotton trimmed in French lace did exceptionally well.” continues to do well at retail.” A flirty cami from Body ‘“We also were pleased with renewed Li said she will be introducing a sportswear line for Vendors generally said they were Creations by Hanes Her Way. interest in traditional sleepwear in novelty fall 2004 and will expand a home accessories line of items pleased with the turnout at this month’s market, citing brushed fabrics,” Demakos said. “Several brushed fabrics including hand-painted pillows and photo album covers. visits from divisional merchandise managers and buy- shipped this fall are retailing quite well. We introduced a “My signature stretch laces continue to sell well, but ers with whom they’ve tried in vain to get an appoint- new brushed wide rib and bouclé fabric. Our best group is it’s my new silk with lace looks that are selling out,” said ment in the past. Some vendors said they got their foot a lace-and velvet-trimmed group of brushed cotton that designer Leigh Bantivoglio, of her eponymous brand. in the door with minimum test orders. has an antique feel.” Top-booking colors include lilac, aqua, peach and black. Top-booking ideas include: Marcia Leeds of the Leeds firm noted that reaction “Retailers are searching for the look of satin and ap- ● New, proprietary fabrics and finishes like has been strong to character prints of Tinkerbell, pliqué lace,” she said. “There’s a lot of private label silk Hollywood velour, an ultrasoft cotton velour for robes Mickey Mouse and Betty Boop that are “more mixed in the market, but I’ve worked really hard to get the right and loungewear by Anne Lewin at NAP. media, with distressed-looking screen- prints that are prices that are competitive. My full silk slips retail for ● Product expansions of full-figure bras, minimizers, more embellished with beading, sparkles and tack-ons.” $195, short slips are $165 and camis are $155 and $165.” strapless numbers and sports bras for full-busted women in fashion colors and feminine lace detailing by Curvation by Bestform at VF Intimates. ● Daywear and sleepwear rendered in high-shine satins and silks embellished with lace that have a glam INTIMATE NOTES retro look from Cinema Etoile. H&M GETS UNDRESSED: H&M, the Swedish retail phenomenon, ● Novelty stretch lace tops meant for the young, contem- is expanding its lingerie campaign in the U.S. porary crowd, to be worn with jeans, by Leigh Bantivoglio. A spokeswoman for the Stockholm-based retailer said it has ● Clever screen prints for camis and panties such as been doing lingerie since 1986, primarily in Europe, and now “Toad You So” with a whimsical frog print at St. Eve wants to put its name on the map in the U.S. International, and distressed, vintage-looking logos and Suggested retail for bras is $7.90 to $12.90, panties are sayings like “Love is the Answer” at Richard Leeds. $5.90 to $7.90 and garters and HotPants are $7.90. ● Sexy, unlined fishnet daywear pieces, including che- H&M recently unveiled its national print campaign at a mises, camis and boy-cut pants with bow motifs in hot cocktail party at its SoHo unit in Manhattan. Three top models pink on a black ground or a white ground by Hanky Panky. will be part of the ad campaign: Naomi Campbell, Daniela ● The “value and beauty” cami in sleek nylon and Pestova and Angie Eberhart. The campaign, which was Lycra spandex in jewel tones by Body Creations by photographed by Ellen Von Unwerth, will appear in 18 Hanes Her Way. countries. In the U.S., ads will appear in December-January Tracey Goodwin, president of the Hanes Her Way busi- issues of Jane, Cosmopolitan, Elle, Lucky, Marie Claire, GQ and ness at Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, said, “Mass merchants FHM, and metro media outlets such as Time Out New York. previewed our Body Creations fall line and they won’t be Former lingerie models for H&M include Elle MacPherson, making decisions for a couple of months. We think there is Cindy Crawford, Amber Valletta, Claudia Schiffer, Sophie Dahl an opportunity in specialty looks at value prices. Mass and Anna Nicole Smith. marketers don’t expect to be regarded as a second option The spokeswoman would not give sales figures for the to department stores when it comes to fashion.” lingerie segment or an advertising budget for the 2003 winter Gail Epstein, design director and an owner of Hanky campaign, but she noted that the company’s total marketing Panky, a fashion daywear and sleepwear resource, said a budget is 2 percent of total annual revenues, which were top-booking item has been a “French thong,” a front V- $53.33 million in 2002. Overall sales outside of Sweden last shaped style with a wide lace band in bright fashion colors. year were $47.545 million. “The big news, though, is a new packaging idea for up to three dozen thongs that can be wrapped like egg MYSTERE GOES RED: Le Mystere, the upscale bra brand rolls in a clear box,” Epstein said. “The thongs come in produced and marketed by The French Room, is partnering many fashion colors.” with the American Heart Association to raise awareness of The new ad campaign for H&M lingerie. She said retailers like the gift-giving idea for a count- cardiovascular disease in women. The AHA has targeted heart to become more aware of heart disease and stroke, by donating er display next to registers. disease as the number-one killer of women. “a minimum of $200,000 to the cause.” “Some 33,000 units a week of Curvation bras have Michael Rabinowitz, owner and president of The French The French Room will donate $2 for every designated Le been selling this summer and fall,” said Anne Jardine, Room, said, “We are doing this because we have been Mystere bra and panty purchased through Feb. 29 at 700 vice president and general manager of the Bestform, successful in business and thought, why not give back to a specialty store doors and major stores such as Nordstrom, Curvation and mass private brands at VF Intimates. “It’s good cause for women. That’s why we chose the American Neiman-Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdale’s, he said. been interesting to see how Curvation has played out. It Heart Association.” The Go Red products by Le Mystere will be four bras: the originally may have had a very African-American appeal Rabinowitz said his company will show its support to the Linguine and Tisha bras, a sculptural push-up style and a because of our spokeswoman Queen Latifah and our lead AHA’s Go Red for Women campaign, which encourages women sculptural strapless number, as well as a low-rider thong. model, but the overall reaction has reconfirmed for us WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 9

Accessories Report

Clockwise from far left: Bergdorf’s Crystal Palace Swarovski crystal chandelier by Tom Dixon; NEW YORK — The normally staid Bergdorf Marvin Traub, Goodman was hopping Thursday night, as it Dawn Mello and feted its holiday windows, a new book from visu- Burt Tansky at al merchandising vice president Linda Fargo Bergdorf’s and its collaboration with Swarovski, which Thursday; crystal includes crystal chandeliers made by artists and chandelier by designers now hanging on the main floor. Vincent Van “Bergdorf Goodman is the new club in town,” Duysen; Nadja quipped 7th on Sixth director Fern Mallis, as Swarovski and she was jostled by the huge crowd at the Fifth Linda Fargo. Avenue store. The party brought out a number of past and present retail bigwigs, including Marvin Traub, Burt Tansky, Dawn Mello and, naturally, Bergdorf ’s chairman Ron Frasch, as well as designers such as Diane von Furstenberg, Oleg Cassini, John Bartlett, Nanette Lepore, Douglas Hannant, and Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough of Proenza Schouler. Also among those checking out the windows and crystal creations was socialite CeCe Cord, who said she sees a return to more elaborate festivities this holiday season.

“People are ready to celebrate again,” she STEVE EICHNER TY PHOTOS BY R noted. “They are going all out this year.” PA

CORD CALLING: Accessories techniques of Ferragamo [which owns Ungaro].” designer Barry Kieselstein- With wedge heels composed of silver chains woven A Fresh View at Club Monaco FINDINGS Cord is scouting locations like a basket, the shoes also boast tasseled cords NEW YORK — Club Monaco is taking a new look at accessories. for a store in uptown Manhattan and is snaking up the ankle. The handmade shoes, with the Where once the retail chain scattered its assortment of handbags, planning to move out of his SoHo flagship handwritten autograph of the Ferragamo worker in belts, scarves and hats across the main floor as an accent to its apparel, and into another location within that city Florence who made them, will retail for about the subsidiary of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. is now planning to roll out neighborhood by Jan. 1. The 5,000- $2,000 and take about two months to produce stand-alone accessories departments to highlight its colorful, trendy square-foot, two-floor SoHo store, from the time of order. merchandise. To that end, the company just unveiled the first, 600- Kieselstein-Cord’s first company- Meanwhile, handbags elaborate on the square-foot accessories department at its store at 160 Fifth Avenue here. owned retail location, opened on West electronic-gadgets theme shown on the “Club Monaco accessory sales have doubled each year over the past Broadway in September 2002. runway. Some are in the shape of two years,” said a Club Monaco spokes- “We took the store with the option to cameras and others a bulbous set of woman. “We wanted a dedicated area leave after 18 months, and we audio headphones. The pinnacle is to present the full color and style point are now close to finalizing a a $4,640 evening bag resembling a of view.” lease on another similarly camcorder and paved in pink Located at the rear of the main floor sized store within the Ungaro’s silver wedge. Swarovski crystals. The viewfinder in a space formerly occupied by cos- neighborhood where there is is a mirror. metics, the new accessories depart- more foot traffic,” said Kieselstein- ment is organized by zestful colors Cord. PERRY ELLIS WARMS UP: Perry Ellis International Inc., rather than classifications, with this He revealed his plans has signed a licensing agreement with Amiee Lynn season’s palette including red, pink, recently at a Bergdorf Goodman Inc., for a collection of cold-weather accessories. purple, gray, white and bright green. cocktail party, where he feted his first collection of The licensee will manufacture and distribute The selection ranges from black-and- diamond jewelry, called Kieselstein-Cord Premier. hats, scarves and gloves for the Perry Ellis and Perry white striped scarves to pink-and-pur- The party drew an eclectic crowd, including Mary Ellis Portfolio labels. George Feldenkreis, chairman ple hats and lime green gloves. McFadden, former Time Warner honcho Bob and chief executive officer of Perry Ellis Typically, Club Monaco’s best-selling Pittman, Massimo Ferragamo and showroom owner International, said the new licensing deal is a further accessories categories are handbags, Club Monaco’s first stand-alone Cynthia O’Connor. step in the repositioning of Perry Ellis women’s wear. belts and hats, but this fall gloves and accessories department opened Priced from about $700 to $1.5 million, the Hats are expected to hit retail next spring, with hosiery have proven to be top sellers, earlier this month. jewelry includes plenty of 18-karat gold and scarves and gloves to follow in the fall. said the spokeswoman. diamonds and is produced under a partnership with Among the most popular items in the new department is a faux croc- diamond company Premier Gem Co. MARTA’S NEXT MOVE: Marta Nowakowski has joined odile vibrant green “Debbie” bag priced at $99, which even had a wait- Mitchells of Westport and Richards in Greenwich, both ing list and sold out before hitting the floor. Prices generally range from TECHNO A GO-GO: Emanuel Ungaro has joined the stores in Connecticut, as senior buyer for nonapparel $30 to $200. made-to-order accessories melee, but on its own terms. goods, including jewelry, shoes and handbags. The spokeswoman declined to disclose sales projections and volume Creative director Giambattista Valli has created Nowakowski previously worked at Bergdorf information, but said accessories sales represent about 5 to 10 percent collectible handbags and shoes that take the themes Goodman for more than six years, most recently as of the overall Club Monaco business. The Fifth Avenue department will of his recent spring runway collection to a new zenith. senior buyer for jewelry and watches. During her act as a blueprint for other Club Monaco stores. “There’s a certain level of customer who loves tenure at Bergdorf’s, the store added such vendors “We are looking at similar presentations in other flagship locations exclusive pieces, and for us, it’s a way to maximize the as Buccelati and Vhernier and opened its watch such as Toronto, Los Angeles and Chicago,” she said. creativity on our accessories,” he said during a preview of boutique last August. Nowakowski reports to — Marc Karimzadeh the line. “I’m trying to bring out all the most sophisticated president Bob Mitchell. PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO

EMPOWER YOUR VISION

GENUINE SINCE 1937 10 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 IRA NEIMARK From Pageboy to the Printed Page

By David Moin the advent of the airlines. They didn’t re- alize their job was to move people and NEW YORK — As dapper as ever, the 82- thought their job was only operating year-old Ira Neimark enters the “teppan” trains. The airline people are getting grill room at the Japanese restaurant smart. They are setting up discount air- Otabe on East 56th Street in a Turnbull & lines and trying to adapt. Asser suit, Charvet shirt and Hermès tie. “For stores to maintain volume, it’s It’s hard to imagine the former chairman promotion after promotion. When do cus- and chief executive of Bergdorf Good- tomers have an opportunity to buy at reg- man was once a uniformed doorboy with ular price? For decades the stores were a mischievous side. privately owned, but now they have to “I wasn’t even the doorman. I assisted worry about each quarter and the price the doorman,” recalls Neimark over lunch, of the stock. That’s the big problem.” talking about his early days at Bonwit Expansion can also hurt a retailer, Teller on 56th Street. But he became ambi- Neimark suggests. In the book, he details tious at an early age. “When I saw Bill how even before he started working at Holmes [Bonwit’s president] pull up in a Bergdorf ’s, he influenced the business. chauffeured limo, and very well dressed, I “When Phil Hawley invited me to the said to myself, ‘I want to be like that.’ I was opening of Bergdorf Goodman in White a 17-year-old doorboy at the time.” Plains in 1974, I realized it was a major His recollections of growing up in re- mistake opening there, compared to the tailing and the personalities he encoun- opportunity Bergdorf ’s still had on 58th tered as he ascended the corporate ladder Street. Phil said, “What do you think?’ are documented in the autobiography he and I said, ‘What do you need all this has been writing for two years. It’s tenta- space for? Forget White Plains, build up tively titled “Crossing Fifth Avenue: From 58th Street.’” The 140,000-square-foot Bonwit Teller to Bergdorf Goodman, A White Plains store closed in 1979. Retailer’s Memoir.” It could just as easily “You can’t build a store in Chicago or be called “Floating to the Top,” for in the Beverly Hills and replicate 58th Street. If turbulent world of retailing, few have en- you did, people would go to the stores joyed such a charmed career. Neimark’s and say, ‘This isn’t like 58th Street.’ And 53 years in retail were marked by nurtur- when you go out to the suburbs, the mer- ing mentors who challenged him, then el- chandise has to be lower [in price]. They evated him. “The advice Bill Holmes gave [Carter Hawley Hale, which owned the to me was that if you have both sales peo- store at the time] were thinking of open- ple and the manufacturers on your side, ing Bergdorf Goodman branches and I you will be a successful merchant. I never talked them out of it.” forgot it,” Neimark writes in the book. It’s Neimark never thought of himself as a a précis, among the many with which writer until two years ago, when his Neimark concludes his chapters to convey granddaughter Hallie — who was 12 at the what he calls “lessons learned” from his time — asked him why 721 was his lucky experiences. number. He uses it for phone numbers He had landed at Bonwit in 1938 as a and other purposes. To answer her, page boy, checking coats and mixing Neimark wrote a letter explaining that cocktails at the 721 Club, an in-store 721 was the address of the old Bonwit PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE shopping service offering a sampling of PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE Teller building. “In 1978, when Bonwit the store’s best items. Then, as doorboy, Teller was demolished to make way for he assumed some duties not in the job the Trump Tower, I asked Donald Trump description. “The Whitneys, the Vander- There’s no reason why you can’t have a balance if I could have the doorknob, and the 721 bilts and others who owned racing sta- “ sign over the Fifth Avenue entrance,” he bles on Long Island came to the beauty — between a personality and maintaining a good said. Trump complied. salon before shopping. All the beauti- The letter covered other experiences cians wanted to know what horses they bottom line, as we did at Bergdorf Goodman. and triggered the book idea. Neimark should place money on, and I placed — Ira Neimark” said it was a coincidence that his wife, their money with George, the bookie Jackie, had collected clips about him across the street. For every dollar I got a weekly performance and to be able to as the city’s foremost luxury emporium from WWD, The New York Times, The nickel. George said to me, ‘Instead of just consult with them about what steps we and one of the most fashionable stores in New York Post and The Wall Street covering Bonwit Teller, why don’t you would take to reorder their bestsellers the world. He also solidified his own rep- Journal. “There were hundreds of arti- cover the whole neighborhood.’” and to get rid of their slow movers.” utation as one of the nation’s top mer- cles beginning in 1969, since I became a Perhaps thinking he had a big break, Neimark depicts an era in retailing chants — decisive, paternalistic, hands- general merchandise manager at B. Neimark mentioned George’s proposal to when merchants could be merchants, on, and a fanatic about the details. He re- Altman. I went through all the articles his mother. “She said, ‘I didn’t raise you when running a retail operation strictly by tired in February 1992. “I had worked in and picked out what stories I wanted to to be a bookie.’” After his mother’s chid- the numbers was unheard of, and when every phase of retailing from a stock boy write about, but everything about my ca- ings, Neimark’s ambitions were redirect- department stores were havens of glam- to a ceo,” Neimark said. reer up to Altman’s was total recall,” he ed to activities inside the store, and he our. But it’s not all romantic. There’s much Currently, he’s an adviser to Oscar de said. “My wife was very interested in became a stock boy, moving into mer- detail on how, in the Fifties, he developed la Renta as well as to Mitsukoshi, the this. I couldn’t have done it without her.” chandise control, then blouse buyer and what would become a widely used system Japanese retailer, and serves as a direc- The book, which is being edited, is divisional merchandise manager. of merchandise control where the rate of tor of Hermès. He has two daughters and ready to be shown to a publisher. “I found He writes of how another of his men- sales determined the inventory level. He five grandchildren. it was quite easy to do,” Neimark said. “It tors, Beatrice Auerbach, the president of called it “weeks of supply.” Neimark maintains pointed views on just flowed. It was very easy to recollect. retailer G. Fox in Hartford, Conn., insist- Then he portrays the impact of mergers what’s wrong with many retail nameplates References to articles made it work. I en- ed that he fly first-class to Europe and on department stores and on his life. “After nowadays. “Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, joyed reliving a very successful career. Japan and stay at the best hotels on buy- May Co. bought G. Fox, I never enjoyed my Marshall Field’s, Filene’s — they all came And I learned how to burn a disk.” ing trips to understand the types of cus- three years there,” he said during lunch. about by individual merchants recognizing And he’s still fascinated by retailing. tomers she wanted G. Fox to sell to. She “It was my first experience in the big cor- what they were in business for, to satisfy in- About a month ago, Bergdorf ’s current was incredibly demanding of his time and porate world. The concern became more dividual customers’ needs. They stood for chairman, Ron Frasch, gave Neimark had a driver bring him to her home cer- for the bottom line than for the personality something in every major city. What they the grand tour of the recently renovated tain nights to review sales data and stale of the store. All stores began to be cloned, didn’t see coming was the discounting.” store. “I think it’s on the right track. I’m a merchandise. She also had the company they lost their appeal and eventually they Years ago, when the major depart- big fan of Ron Frasch. He reported to me mail opened, including letters addressed all [the G. Fox stores] got closed. ment stores were part of the Frederick when I became vice president of the to Neimark, and sent to her office. “There’s no reason why you can’t have Atkins consulting and buying office, “I Neiman Marcus Group.” Ye t Neimark paints a picture of a a balance — between a personality and told them all at an Atkins meeting about One senses that Neimark holds back on woman who imparted a sense of style maintaining a good bottom line, as we the threat of discounting and they said, offering other opinions on the store and and attention to detail. “She had the abil- did at Bergdorf Goodman.” ‘Ira, you worry too much.’ What should that there’s a part of him wishing he were ity to inspire anyone who came in con- In 1975, Neimark became chairman they have done? They should have still in the driver’s seat. “Yeah, it appeals tact with her,” Neimark writes. While and chief executive of Bergdorf ’s. He in- opened their own discount stores and to me,” he acknowledged. “When you see working for Auerbach, Neimark discov- troduced couture, created designer category killers. I used to run bargain mistakes that shouldn’t be, you have the ered what he considers the most enjoy- shops and founded the men’s store across basements for G. Fox and Brown Thomp- desire to call somebody on the phone and able and constructive aspect of his pro- Fifth Avenue. Working with Dawn Mello, son. I’m familiar with lowest end. But re- explain the basic principles of retailing. fession. “It was the ability to meet with president, and Steve Elkin, the chief fi- tail stores were like the railroads of the However, I feel I had my turn at bat, and each buyer, one by one, to review their nancial officer, Neimark established BG 19th century. Railroads didn’t adapt to now I just like to be an umpire.” WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 11 Court Rules Against May Co. FTAA Talks Continue to Evolve Continued from page 2 countries only commit to what “In my view, we are moving they want to, that raises serious Robert In Exec Non-Compete Case the FTAA...into a new phase,” concerns,” said Autor. “If you Zoellick said U.S. Trade Representative exclude whole sectors, the abili- Continued from page one the recruiting company, rather Robert Zoellick at a press brief- ty to get good market access in A two-day court trial was held than a trial,” he said. “What ing closing the Miami meeting those issues that are on the in October in the Circuit Court we’ve learned now is that with last week. “We’re moving from table is diminished.” of St. Louis County. Last this adjudication, non-competes general concepts and people Autor said the NRF is seek- Thursday, the court ruled that are going to be narrowly inter- talking past one another to posi- ing a comprehensive agreement VS Stores and May Co. are not preted, because public policy is tive realities and opportunities.” that covers every consumer competitors and that Weikel did- in favor of allowing people to Zoellick noted that the U.S. product sold at retail, gives mar- n’t breach his contract, meaning work where they want to work, and Brazil developed a “common ket access to U.S. retail compa- he’s free to join VS Stores. He’s providing they don’t reveal trade and balanced set of rights and nies that want to open stores in expected to soon be named chief secrets or work in a directly obligations” covering topics such the Western Hemisphere and operating officer, a new position competitive environment.” as market access for goods, agri- provides rules for protecting in- at the lingerie chain. However, Reiter also noted, culture, investment, government vestment and intellectual prop- “We’re pleased with the deci- “This is not an appellate court procurement, intellectual prop- erty rights. sion and look forward to Mark decision, so it’s not completely erty rights, competition, subsi- “You are looking at a crazy “Theoretically, if it failed joining the Victoria’s Secret determinative. May Co. could dies, antidumping/countervail- quilt of different [trade] arrange- here, it would have failed entire- Stores executive team,” Grace still appeal.” ing duty and dispute settlement. ments in place today, and they ly, so they agreed on very little,” Nichols, president and chief ex- “Just because you sign a non- Zoellick also maintained the are trying to meld them into a he said. “You can’t shoehorn ecutive officer, said in a state- compete doesn’t mean that it is U.S. will not be willing to negoti- single undertaking and single countries into a one-size-fits-all ment Friday. enforceable,” Reiter added. ate on agricultural subsidies with- agreement, which is pretty template that everybody wants, A May Co. spokeswoman “These things have to be narrow in the FTAA, which is perhaps an tough,” said Julia Hughes, vice either in the WTO or the FTAA. said, “We are disappointed with in scope and in time, because area the U.S. will opt out of. president of international trade It just doesn’t work anymore.” the court’s decision and we are people should be allowed to The U.S. will also continue to at the U.S. Association of Cass Johnson, interim presi- evaluating our options.” It’s pos- work where they want. I’ve seen pursue bilateral agreements Importers of Textiles & Apparel. dent at the American Textile sible that May Co. will appeal. non-competes that say you can’t separately. It announced it “You have to anticipate some Manufacturing Institute, said: Not only does VS Stores get a compete anywhere in the world, would launch deals with differences, which they won’t “When you end up with a frame- seasoned, senior-level executive and it’s preposterous.” Panama, Peru, Ecuador and overcome until the end.” work document that has no to support growth plans, but the He’s also seen more carefully Bolivia, in Miami. She said she was pleased to dates, opt outs, no rules or regu- court also ruled that May Co. worded contracts that are “very Importers said there are a lot see a deadline for market access lations and weaker language, it must reimburse Limited Brands narrow, specifying you can’t work of unanswered questions in talks, for which her member appears you are going backward for costs associated with the for company A or company B or light of a scaled-back FTAA. companies are most interested, rather than forward.” case, including travel and hotel company C, and you need to wait Erik Autor, vice president and set for Sept. 3, 2004. Johnson said he doesn’t ex- expenses. “It’s everything ex- a year before you can go work for international trade counsel at the On the other side of the de- pect the FTAA to get much trac- cept legal fees,” said a Limited company A, B or C,” Reiter said. National Retail Federation, said bate, Jock Nash, Washington tion next year. Brands spokesman. One major retailer, Gap Inc., he is concerned about a “two- counsel for Milliken & Co. who “Politically, it’s a net loss ex- Retail sources said last week avoids non-competes altogether, tiered” approach that would was in Miami for the talks, cept for inside the Beltway and that non-compete clauses are since they are not enforceable allow countries to opt out of cer- claimed the ministers signed a on Wall Street,” he said. “You often vague and hard to inter- in California. Kohl’s is also said tain areas in the negotiations. skeletal blueprint because “it are treading into tricky political pret. However, executives are to have some senior executives “If you are talking about an à was the only way they could ground every time you put these pressured to sign contracts that who aren’t under contract. la carte approach in which keep it going for another year.” things forward.” include the clauses, or else not One retail source felt that take the job. Limited had a good case against Last week’s decision was par- May Co. all along, and said that ticularly important to Limited is further evidenced by the fact Brands. For the past few years, that May Co. lost the case even the company has been actively though it was tried in its own recruiting executive talent and backyard. “If Weikel was going to wants to continue to beef up the Dillard’s or Federated, May Co. ranks. Also, in about 160 “A” would have had a very strong malls, Limited Brands is looking case,” said the source. to pump up stores, including VS “Any legal decision has rami- units, through expansions and fications for future court cases,” renovations, and has boosted its observed Elaine Hughes of E.A. capital expenditure budget. Hughes executive search. She In its decision, the court also said that last week’s ruling wrote: “May and VS Stores do will give executives leaving not compete in any material or companies more confidence. meaningful way. The targeted “There could also be some customer profiles of the two com- reevaluation of the contractual panies are completely different. process on both sides,” Hughes They do not compete for suppli- said. “As much as companies ask ers, vendors or other resources. people to sign contracts, candi- VSS has its own designs manu- dates look for contractual forms factured overseas for exclusive of protection.” sales in its own stores. Intimate She believes that senior ex- apparel is the primary product ecutives are generally privy to of VSS, while it comprises only confidential information and approximately 3 percent of May’s therefore, “for a period of time overall company sales.” they should not be allowed to go The court also wrote that May to a direct competitor, but that and VS Stores use two complete- period has to be reasonable and ly different marketing strategies they should be compensated for — VS Stores has a vertically inte- remaining unemployed.” grated strategy totally different In addition to contractual re- from May — and that any confi- strictions, some companies have dential information possessed by policies that restrict movement Weikel is not sought by VS Stores to other companies. For exam- and would not give VS Stores a ple, about seven years ago, competitive edge over May. Federated decided to prohibit The court indicated that its executives from joining ven- Weikel’s contract does not pro- dors that sell the company. hibit him from voluntarily termi- In another messy contract dis- nating his employment, and that pute involving non-compete is- the non-compete provision of sues — but without resorting to Weikel’s contract is “not per se the courts — American Eagle unreasonable or unenforceable, Outfitters successfully blocked but it is not implicated under Gregory S. Gemette from becom- the facts of the case because no ing the chief merchant at Bebe material competition exists.” Stores. Just two business days be- Hal Reiter, chief executive of- fore Gemette was planning to join ficer of Herbert Mines Bebe as senior vice president and Associates executive search, put chief merchandising officer, Bebe the court decision into perspec- announced two weeks ago that he tive. “Usually, these cases get wouldn’t be coming after all, leav- settled by cash payment from ing Gemette unemployed. 12 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-Week Sales Amt High Low P/E (00’s) Last Change Claire’s Taps Executives, Broadline Retailers 14.59 3.39 Bon-Ton Stores 15.4 3898 13.70 0.10 20.17 12.32 Dillard’s 27.4 43955 15.57 0.44 50.60 23.51 Federated 16.2 79144 48.95 0.09 Net Soars in 3rd Quarter 4.00 0.94 Gottschalks - 488 3.66 -0.17 25.55 15.57 J.C. Penney 22.9 87001 24.45 0.90 By Jennifer Weitzman million, or $1.28 a diluted share, underwear and bags, led the way. 30.41 17.81 May Dept. Stores 17.0 76367 29.63 1.17 compared with $37.5 million, or According to Michael Cunning- 6.30 1.48 Retail Ventures - 3298 5.45 -0.46 NEW YORK — Claire’s Stores 77 cents. Sales vaulted 13.2 per- ham, senior vice president and Inc., a low-price jewelry and ac- cent to $768.9 million from chief financial officer, women’s 15.75 6.66 Saks 30.6 53761 15.20 0.25 cessories retailer, reported its $679.1 million, and were up 7 comps rose in the mid-single 55.79 18.25 Sears 11.3 242200 54.85 1.27 third-quarter profits more than percent on a comp basis. digit range while men’s were 41.80 25.60 Target 20.3 179947 37.75 -0.89 doubled. Other specialty retailers re- down in the low-single digits. 60.20 46.25 Wal-Mart 27.5 448764 54.81 -0.19 Concurrently, the company porting results last week: Julian Geiger, chairman and said its board elected Bonnie chief executive officer, credited Softline Retailers Schaefer and Marla Schaefer, WET SEAL the positive performance to a 38.21 17.05 Ann Taylor 19.2 23140 37.52 0.30 Rowland Schaefer’s daughters, Poor third-quarter sales kept strong back-to-school season as as co-chairmen and co-chief ex- The Wet Seal Inc. in the red. well as a robust retail environ- 5.97 0.70 Bluefly - 51738 4.85 0.33 ecutives. Their father, currently For the three months ended ment. “We do not think the land- 22.50 15.40 Burlington Coat 14.5 2800 20.96 -0.59 chairman, president and ceo, Nov. 1, losses for the Foothill scape is bleak with an occasional 6.85 2.70 Charming Shoppes 19.4 40973 6.08 -0.32 won’t extend his current leave of Ranch, Calif.-based teen retailer ray of sunshine,” said Geiger in 39.20 16.75 Chico’s FAS 39.5 36947 37.11 -0.38 absence beyond its November ex- tripled to $7.5 million, or 25 cents reference to rising traffic levels. 15.32 12.20 Dress Barn 57.6 2891 14.30 0.18 piration and will instead become a diluted share, compared with a “The weather has been con- 21.10 9.28 Foot Locker 16.5 177669 20.93 2.10 chairman emeritus. loss of $2.5 million, or 8 cents, ducive to people shopping. We’ve The Pembroke Pines, Fla.- last year. demonstrated that when people 21.99 12.01 Gap 20.0 265968 20.84 -0.73 based company, which operates a Also, Wet Seal said William people are in the mall, we do a 71.70 46.18 Kohl's 27.0 239225 48.88 -2.92 fleet of 2,850 stores under the Langsdorf had resigned as chief lot of business.” 18.50 10.88 Limited Brands 17.2 149762 17.74 -0.06 Claire’s and Icing nameplates, financial officer of the company, Ribbon-cutting at 34 new 52.92 25.90 Neiman Marcus Group 20.0 9267 52.77 1.27 said income for the quarter effective in January, after a little stores during the quarter also 35.19 15.00 Nordstrom 21.7 102594 34.92 3.75 ended Nov. 1 increased 104.3 over a year in the post. As report- helped buoy sales. 24.56 10.74 Pacific Sunwear 23.6 100550 21.53 0.84 percent to $25.3 million, or 51 ed, Walter Parks resigned as ex- For the 39-week period earn- cents per diluted share, which ecutive vice president and chief ings rose 96.3 percent to $26.7 55.10 32.58 Ross Stores 18.9 46330 53.43 0.69 included a one-time benefit of 4 administrative officer of the million, or 69 cents a diluted 8.40 6.02 Syms - 634 6.99 -0.03 cents from a tax examination store in October. Kathy Bronstein share, against earnings of $13.6 38.65 22.00 Talbots 16.8 31163 32.49 1.28 that was settled more favorably was forced out as the store’s million, or 35 cents, last year. 23.70 15.54 TJX 19.8 113483 22.12 -0.13 than expected. Analysts on aver- chief executive in February and Sales for the period escalated age were expecting Claire’s to re- has since been succeeded by 34.2 percent, to $462.2 million Vendors port earnings of 47 cents, accord- Peter Whitford. from $344.5 million last year. 64.40 47.08 Alberto Culver 21.8 7539 60.80 -0.94 ing to First Call. Last year, in- Sales for the period dipped Comparable-store sales increas- come was $12.4 million, or 25 5.8 percent to $136.1 million es were exactly half of year-ago 69.75 48.93 Avon 26.7 39066 66.51 -1.81 cents. Sales climbed 14.8 percent against $144.5 million last year. levels, contracting to 5.4 percent 22.61 13.65 Cherokee 13.1 543 21.57 -0.18 to $264.1 million from $230 mil- Declines in comp-store sales for from 10.8 percent last year. 38.73 14.52 Coach 38.1 98574 36.24 -1.46 lion, and were elevated 8 percent the quarter expanded to 10.2 per- 59.39 31.55 Columbia Sportswear 19.4 7740 57.27 -0.35 on a same-store basis. cent compared with a decrease HOT TOPIC 30.75 17.10 Del Laboratories 11.8 2355 24.60 0.08 “Our business has continued of 9.6 percent last year. Music-loving teens gobbled up 38.75 25.40 Estée Lauder 28.0 26426 37.40 -0.24 to deliver upon the momentum Losses were lower than in the Hot Topic’s rock T-shirts, helping that began building earlier this previous quarter. Whitford said the specialty retailer to score 29.82 15.95 Fossil 21.4 10690 28.42 -0.11 year,” Marla Schaefer said in a in a statement, “Leading the way double-digit gains in third-quar- 12.00 4.62 G-III 17.6 278 10.50 -0.59 statement. “Jewelry continued to with the most significant im- ter sales and earnings. 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.6 5222 84.80 -0.12 outpace accessories, a trend that provement was the Arden B. di- The City of Industry, Calif.- 15.60 3.30 Guess - 9461 13.05 -0.80 helps our bottom line due to the vision.” However, Whitford went based firm said income rose 52 37.65 25.61 Jones Apparel 13.0 41515 33.93 -0.87 higher margins associated with on to warn that despite positive percent to $15.3 million, or 31 38.53 22.65 Kellwood 41.3 13906 38.20 2.19 jewelry products.” comp trends in the company’s cents a diluted share, from $10 Rowland Schaefer will re- core Wet Seal division these million, or 21 cents, in the like 31.40 18.55 Kenneth Cole 17.7 6758 28.27 0.67 ceive annual payments for five gains will be “more than offset” period last year. 38.90 26.23 Liz Claiborne 13.9 33409 34.23 -1.02 years as well as certain other by markdowns intended to clear Overall sales for the quarter 7.00 3.40 Mossimo 8.2 892 4.92 0.01 benefits, and is entitled to exer- goods for the holiday season. increased a solid 31.7 percent to 27.50 16.97 Movado 15.3 842 26.81 0.09 cise outstanding stock options Comps fell 9.7 percent last $161.5 million, with same-store 71.65 22.01 Oxford 21.8 1833 65.15 0.20 within a specified period. The month, 10 percent in September sales up 10.8 percent. 17.45 11.16 Phillips-Van Heusen 16.0 6390 16.64 -0.14 company said the total cost of the and 10.7 percent in August. Betsy McLaughlin, president 31.52 19.30 Polo Ralph Lauren 14.8 10780 28.90 0.42 agreement was valued at be- For the nine months to date and chief executive officer, said tween $8 million and $11 million. the company reported a loss of on an afternoon conference call 19.55 12.10 Quiksilver 16.6 22852 17.12 0.10 The aftertax charge will be 11 to $29.5 million, or 99 cents a dilut- that the music-licensed business 4.13 2.05 Revlon - 6998 2.61 0.11 14 cents a diluted share, and will ed share, against profits of $9.9 continued to trend strongly, up 21.15 14.94 Russell Corp. 13.8 7424 18.13 0.43 be recorded in the fourth quarter. million, or 32 cents, last year. 16 percent in the third quarter. 4.76 2.45 Tarrant Apparel - 1064 3.89 -0.46 The firm projected fourth- Sales to date have fallen 13.8 Other merchandise cate- 16.60 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger 7.6 65218 13.19 -1.67 quarter earnings from continued percent to $385.8 million from gories also posted solid results. 9.35 3.78 Tropical Sportswear - 1384 4.24 -0.35 operations to range between $53 $447.3 million last year. Comps The men’s business increased 21 million and $55 million, or $1.09 were down 18.7 percent against percent; accessories, up 7 per- 44.08 32.62 VF Corp. 12.0 18704 40.76 -1.16 to $1.12 a share, excluding the a 0.2 percent slide last year. The cent, and women’s, up 4 percent. 18.23 8.80 Warnaco - 50422 13.91 -0.59 impact of Schaefer’s retirement company plans to shutter a total The company, which operates package. Sales are expected to of 16 Wet Seal and Arden B. 501 Hot Topic stores and 52 Textiles range from $350 million to $354 stores during the fourth quarter. Torrid plus-size units, plans to 6.15 1.35 Delta Woodside - 133 1.65 0.12 million, a 9 to 10 percent in- open 105 new stores in 2004, 80 0.07 0.01 Galey & Lord - 2171 0.01 0.00 crease, and should rise 6 percent Hot Topics and 25 Torrids. on a comp basis. AEROPOSTALE James McGinty, chief financial 12.30 2.25 Guilford Mills - 11 12.00 -0.10 For the nine months, earn- New-store sales and robust officer, said he expects fourth 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 8654 4.87 0.02 ings climbed 67.9 percent to $63 accessories performance sent quarter earnings of 41 cents, com- results skyward for Aeropostale pared with 34 cents reported last Inc. in the third quarter. year, and sales to range between WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending November 21 Biggest Percentage Changes For the 13 weeks ended Nov. $182 million and $185 million, For Week Ending November 21 1, the New York, N.Y.-based teen with low-single-digit same-store Gainers Close Change retailer saw earnings elevate sales gains. For fiscal 2004, he Composite: 115.44 Broadline Stores: 113.31 Softline Stores: 122.17 Nordstrom 34.92 12.03 45.8 percent to $21.9 million, or said he anticipates income of $57 Foot Locker 20.93 11.15 56 cents a diluted share, com- million, or $1.12, based on a low- Delta Woodside 1.65 7.84 pared with earnings of $15 mil- single-digit sales increase. Bluefly 4.85 7.28 lion, or 39 cents, last year. For the nine months, net in- -0.61 -0.24 -1.20 Kellwood 38.20 6.08 Sales for the quarter rose come rose 41.5 percent, to $25.6 Losers Close Change 30.1 percent, to $220.1 million million, or 52 cents a diluted Vendors: 116.22 Textiles: 90.41 Tommy Hilfiger 13.19 -11.24 from $169.2 million. Compar- share, from $18.1 million, or 37 Index base of 100 is Tarrant Apparel 3.89 -10.58 able-store sales growth expand- cents. Comps advanced 6.8 percent keyed to closing prices Retail Ventures 5.45 -7.78 ed marginally, to 5.2 percent as sales were up 28.1 percent to of Dec. 31, 2002. Tropical Sptswr 4.24 -7.63 against 5 percent last year. $377.9 million from $295 million. -1.33 0.32 Guess 13.05 -5.78 Double-digit gains in sales of —With contributions from accessories, including dormwear, Ross Tucker WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 13 Rodriguez’s Latin Beat Retail, Designers Adapt By David Moin NEW YORK — Backed by a big corporate parent and inspired To Plummeting Dollar by the sensual tones and textures of his native Cuba, men’s wear designer Eddie Rodriguez is branching out into women’s Continued from page 2 wear, home products and retailing. European firms, “particularly those in the U.S. market, where they have lit- Rodriguez will open his first store carrying what he tle pricing power themselves.” called a “complete lifestyle collection at a Banana Ralph Toledano, president of Chloé, said the company has already made Republic price point” in the Fashion Show Mall in Las most price adjustments for the spring-summer 20044 season and has since Vegas in February. The merchandise, bearing the then made “an enormous effort” to keep prices down. Tabasco-colored Eddie Rodriguez label, will be set “At retail, especially in America, there has been a lot of price resist- amid evocative Old World and Moorish trappings, ance,” he said. “We have been very concentrated on working on this.” such as “confessional” mahogany wood screens, tin Eddie Burberry, which buys raw materials in euros, said that hasn’t altered its drop ceilings with carve outs and colors that appear Rodriguez sales or marketing strategy since the surge of the euro against the dollar. washed out by sunlight. Exteriors will have stucco “Currency fluctuations are part of life as an international business — facades with Cuban tiling, large hand- and all international companies are facing the same currency problems carved wooden door handles, and wide right now,” a spokesperson said. windows for views deep into the store. Joseph Boitano, senior vice president and general marketing manager at Additional Eddie Rodriguez shops Saks Fifth Avenue, said all of the store’s key suppliers have been very con- will open from February to May in the scious of the strong euro and have worked hard to keep prices stable. He said Boca Town Center in Boca Raton, Fla.; these companies “understand that this is not the moment for price increases.” Beverly Center in Los Angeles; At the same time, he said currency fluctuations have forced Saks to Fashion Valley Mall in San Diego; evaluate its buying strategy. Dadeland Mall in Miami, and Barton “We have had to analyze from a unit standpoint how many units we can Creek Mall in Austin, Tex. Stores will buy with the budget and where there are very high price points, we might be between 3,000 and 3,500 square feet choose not to buy,” he said, although he added he didn’t think higher in size. “We are looking at 150 ‘A’ points items on particularly luxurious items would deter customers. “If it’s a really of sale and we like to think we can be great item, she’ll spend the money.” in at least those. That would include Instead, companies are coping with a variety of strategies: producing mall and street locations nationally,” outside the euro-zone, hedging against currency shifts and cutting costs to Rodriguez said. protect margins when the top line is suffering. Wholesaling under the Eddie Rod- In lowering its view of the luxury sector last week to “cautious” from “in riguez label in the past proved tough to line,” Morgan Stanley noted that the lopsided dollar-euro exchange could make money, he added. “I would spend subtract as much as 6 percent from sales of European luxury goods in 2004. a year designing and developing a col- Although analyst Claire Kent was more alarmed by increasing competi- lection and then walk into a department tive pressures in the sector, she noted that American consumers won’t take store and say, ‘What happened to it?’’’ well to currency-driven inflation. They are unlikely to tolerate further price The Eddie Rodriguez label is owned increases for European luxury goods before turning to domestic brands like by The Men’s Wearhouse, the $1.3 bil- Above: Sheer cotton Coach, Polo Ralph Lauren or Tiffany, she explained. lion men’s wear chain. The company voile ruffle blouse, A spokesman for LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton declined to com- acquired the designer’s Wilke-Rod- $68, straight-leg jean, ment on how the weakening dollar would affect pricing across its myriad riguez trademark a year ago and $58, and leather bag, businesses, which span fashion and leather goods, perfumes and cosmet- brought him on board as creative direc- $98. Right: Silk ics, watches, wines and spirits and retailing. He noted the impact is tied tor. “I’ve been given total freedom in the chiffon flamenco closely to LVMH’s complex hedging policies on various currencies. creative process,” Rodriguez said. dress, $128; black However, he noted a strong yen is helping to offset the impact of a surg-

strappy sandal, $138. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO His women’s collection is relaxed, ing euro, since a strong yen generally means Japanese consumers buy sexy and emphasizes bright colors, shorter lengths, tropical weights, cotton and silk chiffons, sheer treat- more at home, and travel more, as well. ments and stretch, including peak label jackets in wool polyurethane, ultra-fine pima cotton T-shirts A strong euro-to-dollar exchange rate “puts a lot of pressure on your with thin, feminine necklines, and ultra-soft washed denims. There are no basics, 10 groups are being margins. You have to look at cost structure and have to manage very care- created for a steady flow to the stores, and much of the collection, comprised of tailored clothing, sports- fully,” Gucci president and chief executive Domenico De Sole said last wear, outerwear, furnishings, accessories and footwear, gets displayed on the home furnishings, such as month as the company presented second-quarter numbers. Gucci saw its distressed console tables, which are for sale. Other home products are leather stools, chaise lounge revenue for the period rise 1.1 percent, but the group said the rise would sofas, and scented candles. Rodriguez has partnered with Atmosphere, a furniture retailer and whole- have been 2.2 percent at constant exchange rates. saler, to create his home products. Virtually all European firms with U.S. distribution reported wide dispari- The store environment was created in tandem with Robin Kramer, who has worked with many top design- ties in their sales when compared with revenues at “constant currency” or ers over the years to create retail spaces. Rodriguez said, “The concept transports you to an exotic place, like “in local currencies.” Rio or Morocco. It’s not place specific. Everything in the store is custom designed from the ceilings to the cash Gucci, like companies large and small, from Hugo Boss to niche coat wrap to the flooring. I really wasn’t interested in a cookie-cutter store with white walls and chrome fixtures.” manufacturer Cinzia Rocca, engages in hedging to protect its margins from currency fluctuations. Jacopo Rocca, chief executive of his family’s firm, said the company taken by our Medusa logo.” In particular, Versace said, hedged enough earlier this year to account for the strong euro and prices the Hyppodrome and Meandros watches and the biker should remain stable for next year. bag are current bestsellers. — Luisa Zargani. “I think we’ll keep the same pricing structure in 2004. At the most, EUROPE WATCH prices will go up by a couple percentage points,” he said. A SLOW MARCH: The luxury watch sector is still Still, other companies are drastically altering their product strategies to ticking slowly. The Swiss Watch Federation, or FHS, cope with the lost revenue. Swiss watchmaker Corum, which sells time- MOSCOW NIGHTS: Versace will kick off Moscow’s reported imports of Swiss watches fell 0.1 percent in pieces with five-digit price tags, plans to start rolling out less expensive fashion week on Tuesday, presenting four shows October to $879.3 million, or 1.14 billion Swiss products to offset the slowdown. throughout that evening — the men’s and women’s francs, from the year-earlier period. Through the first “We have lost 15 percent to the exchange,” said chairman Severin fall/winter 2003-04 and spring/summer 2004 10 months, sales dropped 4.5 percent versus a year Wunderman. “Hopefully the dollar will increase, as it is causing havoc in the collections. “We are happy and proud to celebrate the ago. According to a research note from HSBC, U.S. market.” 10th anniversary of Moscow’s fashion week,” said October’s results seem to indicate “the worst is over A spokesman for Giorgio Armani said the company has not made any Santo Versace, chief executive officer of the company, for the watch segment. It continues to lag behind the changes to its pricing structure since it carried out a “single-digit” percent- in a phone interview. Versace will show at the city’s rest of the luxury sector, notably leather goods and age price increase for the fall-winter collection. Rossia Concert Hall, which accommodates 2,500 jewelry.” Recently, Richemont and Bulgari said they “Obviously, we’re watching the situation…but we’re not making any fur- people. The 35 models will all be Russian. The event were less than bullish in their outlook for the holiday ther decisions at this time,” he said. will be followed by a private dinner at the restaurant season. — Ranya Husami A strong euro also is driving companies to produce more and more out- Biscuit, hosted by Santo Versace for 200 guests, side the European Union. Italy, the industry’s manufacturing hub, has cer- including government members and local celebrities. NEW OUTFITS: Urban Outfitters will open its second tainly felt the exodus recently, although this phenomenon has been blamed This is not the company’s first show in Russia. In London unit this month on Earlham Street in Covent on a variety of factors, including the high cost of Italy’s labor and the rela- February last year, Versace showed its spring collection Garden as part of a major European rollout. The 7,000- tive inflexibility of its workforce. at the Pushkin Museum. square-foot site, the retailer’s fourth unit in the U.K., The production of textiles, apparel, leather and leather goods in Italy “We are happy with our business in Russia, which opens this week. Next year, a third London store — dropped a staggering 8.7 percent in 2002, according to figures from the now accounts for about 10 percent of our sales and is spanning 30,000 square feet — will open on Oxford Camera Nazionale della Moda. In 2001, that figure was actually positive, rapidly expanding,” Versace said. Last year, the Street. In a statement, the company said that deals for showing a 2.8 percent rise. company reported sales of $564.6 million. Versace was two more U.K. units to open next year would be signed In the current volatile currency market, firms that produce or source the first Italian luxury-goods house to set up a boutique before Christmas. The Covent Garden store, designed outside of Europe are more insulated from the euro-dollar dynamic. Hugo in Russia, in 1994. Today there are three freestanding by the British firm Pompeii AD, is housed in a former Boss manufactures some of its men’s collections in Ohio. Cheaper dollars boutiques there — Versace stores in Moscow and Saint brewery. All of the original brickwork and beams have have benefited Hennes & Mauritz since it does much of its buying in the Petersburg, and a Versace Home Collection unit in been restored. The store will sell men’s and women’s Far East, where prices are fixed in dollars. Moscow. Versace is also carried in six multibrand street wear labels including FrostFrench, Diesel Style “We have passed the savings on to the customers by lowering prices boutiques in the country. “Moscow is unique and has Lab and Evisu, as well as an expanded Urban Outfitters [commensurately in Europe],” said H&M’s head of investor relations Carl- enormous potential, but the importance of second-tier line, including the Urban Renewal range, a vintage- Henric Enhorning. But he added the company had to raise prices “propor- cities, such as Rostov and Krasnodar, is also growing,” inspired label. Other Urban Outfitter units are in tionately” in the U.S. to compensate. Versace said, adding that Russians have a passion for Dublin, Glasgow and on High Street Kensington in — With contributions from Robert Murphy, Paris, “everything leather” and color, and are “especially London. — Nina Jones Samantha Conti, London and Melissa Drier, Berlin 14 WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003

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Paul, Mike, Larry, Don, Jerry or Steve Fax resume to: 212-868-9808 or email for a new, exciting challenge and desire to make a differ- [email protected] Showrooms & Lofts ence, we are actively looking for you! BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS We are an established Intimate Apparel group, seeking exp’d Great ’New’ Office Space Avail DESIGNER ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 professional with solid track record. Responsible to develop FREELANCE - FULL TIME and execute merchandise line plan from concept through Well established fashion jewelry company finish at targeted price points and achieve internal product seeking very creative and experienced Jewelry Designer. Must possess a strong margins; create/maintain/meet time and action calendar. sense of color and have the ability to Outstanding managerial and communication skills, with high spot trends. Experience working with computer proficiency; are musts. Minimum 3-5 years of crystals and semi-precious stones. Port- folio required. Salary commensurate senior merchandise management experience, with significant with experience. prior background in planning, line building, product develop- Please send resumes in confidence to: Admin Assistant Designer Immed ment; with some Intimate Apparel background. Excellent [email protected] High-end accessory co seeks admin Outerwear salary commensurate with experience. All resumes held in Designer asst. Duties include data entry, corre- $60’s strictest confidence. spondence w/European vendors, Please email resume w/salary history to: [email protected] JLO Accessories liaison with PR, customer service & Looking for designer to do Handbags Prestige Label general duties. Excellent computer [email protected] and Small Leathergoods. Must have skills: Access and knowledge of Adobe 3-5 years experience in the handbag DESIGNERS DESIGNER to $140K New market in Brooklyn starting and Photoshop a plus. Great opportuni- 8-10 yrs missy contemporary casual sptswr business. Please fax resumes to: ty for advancement. Health benefits DESIGNER 212-643-8464 Att. Kenny Horowitz. in December. Clothing, Jewelry and Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Home Accessories. Great exposure included. Fax resume and salary Major apparel company seeks dynamic [email protected] requirements to: (212) 245-2038 experienced designer. Must have expe- to get your product out there! Designer to $150K. Current exp. in better (718) 284-2227 or (917) 434-6312 rience with Infant/Toddler Boys. Must APPAREL JOBS be proficient in Photoshop and/or foundation bras req’d. Creative + tech 1)Artists: Boy-Girls-Jrs 2) Technical Designers Illustrator. Mass Market experience a knowledge + patternmaking skills. Grad- 3)Prdctn Coord Walmart 4)Planners & Analysts plus. Excellent salary and benefits. ing, etc. Midtown Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Footwear Product Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agcy) Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Sales base + comm. Current exp. in Designer to $80K. Current exp in girls Merchandising Correspondent costume jewelry. This co. has licensed, 4+upsleepwear. Licensed. Generic. ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Branded. Jr flair. MAC/ Illustrator/ branded & private label for women, Major apparel company seeks experi- DESIGNER Louis Vuitton N.A. is seeking an Jrs, Kids, etc. Strong growth co. Minimum 3 yrs preferably in backpack Photoshop. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. y enced individual to act as liaison individual with 2-4 years exp to Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agc between design and production. and handbag accessories. Self motivat- work in our Merchandising Dept. Responsibilities include assisting ed person who can run with concept thru design to product development. DESIGNER Will be responsible for analyzing, designers with concepts/layouts, Young Men’s Casual & Activewear pricing inquiries and completing Hands on team player. lllustrator is a stock movement and product must. Family environment. Branded Co. seeks exp’d. Designer with production packages. Must have full capabilities to do Young Men’s & communication for Men’s and PATTERN/SAMPLES knowledge of Photoshop and/or Email resume to [email protected] or fax to 212-868-2595. Activewear graphic designs, sketches, Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Illustrator. trend forecasting, silhouettes, and tech Women’s Shoes. Must have Authentic JELLY KELLY™ work. Custom-made Bridalwr 212-629-4808 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 packs. Please E-mail resume and salary strong reporting & PC skills. Seeking N.Y.C. & Chicago based Sales Designers requirements to: [email protected] Excellent comp/benefits package. Reps. Showroom req’d. Experience with CAD DESIGNER DESIGN Designer and/or Better Specialty Stores Freelance Hosiery CAD Designer Major women’s and children’s accesso- International, team-oriented set- amust.Major produ.ct launch scheduled needed to develop licensed characters, ries company is seeking highly moti- ting w/career growth opps! PATTERNS, SAMPLES, vated designers to join our growing LINGERIE DESIGNER for Jan/Feb. 2004. Fax/E-mail resume to: florals, and conversational patterns. (FREELANCE) Must undergo background check. 213-623-6443 / [email protected] PRODUCTIONS The ideal candidate must be able to team. The ideal candidates must be team players, creative, detail oriented, Exciting new lingerie line requires Please email resume to: All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. create concept sketches and graphs creative Designer with sophisticated Call Sherry 212-719-0622. patterns using Pontcarre’s software. organized and thrive in an upbeat and [email protected] fast paced environment. Positions in eye. Exp. with underwire bras a must. Candidates must have good eye for Please fax resume to: (212) 835-0781 or FAX to: (212) 931-2109. color and design detail, strong the following areas are currently communication skills and terrific fol- available: EOE M/F/D/V low through. Fax resume to : Design/Prod. Associate 212-629-8150 *Back Packs adult and children Detail-oriented, creative indiv. needed PATTERNS/SAMPLES including character licenses to design & manage production of high- PRODUCTION Careers in Apparel Thru end hats (domestic) & shoes (overseas). Samples & patterns. Full service shop *Handbags Must have prod exp (1 yrs. shoes & 1 yr GRAPHIC DESIGNER APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. hats &/or garments) & strong Kids/junior room, novelty and gift Velour-Fleece to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 Asstnt. Controller-Royalties Exp...... $OPEN *Hosiery patternmaking skills. Creative/fun manufacturer seeks graphic designer French Terry Lycra+reg V.P. of Sales - C.W.R. Dept Store Only...$OPEN atmosphere! Fax res to: 212-674-1769 with experience in licenses such as Drake Fabrics V.P. Product Development-MJR Catalog...... $OPEN All positions requires a minimum of 2 Disney, Nick and Mattel. Must be pro- 718-389-8902 Dsgnr-Casual/Activewear-Catalog Co.....$OPEN years industry experience. Illustrator Eugenia Kim Hats/Shoes ficient in Illustrator and Photoshop. Dsgnr-Cruisewear +Activewear...... $OPEN and Photoshop experience also Fax resume to 212-643-0684 Asstnt. Dsgnr-Sptswr-Westchester loc...To$35K required. Q.C./Lab Techn.-MJR Manuf...... To $40K EDI Supervisor Q.C.Domestic MFR-Visit Contractors.To $60K+ Weoffer an excellent compensation Midtown Manhattan major importer PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Technical Dsgnr -Sweaters C.N.S. Knits..To$60K needs EDI Supervisor with at least 3 High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- and benefits package including a Spec.Techn. -C.N.S. Knitwear Exp...... $50K 401(k) plan. For immediate considera- yrs. experience of EDI processing with GRAPHIC DESIGNER sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 high volume importer. Must be able to Other [email protected] tion please fax resumes including Men’s underwear, sleepwear and lounge- Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. take over with minimum training. Must wear company seeks creative, detail No Lot Too Big or Too Small. or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 salary history and requirements to: be fully familiar with all aspects of EDI 212-842-3217. When applying, please oriented, highly motivated individual. Call CLOTHES-OUT: transmissions with major retailers in US. Qualified individual should be proficient (937) 898-2975 Computer programmer to $35K. Entry level. IT indicate for which position you are Salary commensurate with experience. interested in. in Illustrator 10, Photoshop 7, Plaid mak- degree requ’d. Exp Excell. Strong math re- Please fax resume to: (212) 736-1941 quired. Will learn computerized allocations for er plus and Streamline. Development of mdtwn co. Fax: 973-379-1275. Jaral Agcy. licensed characters and novelty prints DESIGNERS FLOOR MANAGER are needed. This individual should have Sewing Floor Manager wanted for agreat work attitude and be able to work CONSULTANT new frontier costume manufacturer in Massachu- in a fast paced work environment. Must WANTED: Buyer for major Dept.store JOIN OUR TEAM! setts. Ideal candidate must have be able to meet deadlines and be a team to act as P/T apparel consultant to Great opportunity for motivated and thorough knowledge of production player. We offer excellent health benefits APPAREL AND RETAIL JOB BOARD N.Y. investment Co. Respond to: creative designers to join our design sewing, industrial machines and 2+ and salary to compensate experience. [email protected] years management experience. Com- Fax resume to 212 842-4030 Job Candidates-Post your Resume & View Jobs group. We seek individuals with mini- detailing experience and contact info. mum 2-3 yrs working experience, pany offers health care coverage, 401K or email: [email protected] Employers-Post jobs & view qualified resumes and bonus. Equal Opportunity Employer Design knowledge of the fabric market, experi- www.fashioncareercenter.com ence in overseas production, CAD Dansco 30 Frank Mossberg Drive Attleboro, SaraMax Asst. Designer skills a plus, organization and commu- ∂ nication skills a must. MA 02703 Fax: 508-431-1865 ∂ Email Well established intimate apparel co. to [email protected]. seeks creative self starter with 1-3 yrs Salary commensurate with experience. experience in intimates. MAC Illustra- Weoffer outstanding benefits and RESUMES tor & Photoshop a must. BFA in fash growth opportunities in a youthful and GRAPHIC ARTIST Graphic/Textile Artist design mandatory. Good benefits. energetic atmosphere. FREELANCE - Illustrator / Thorough Major apparel mfg is seeking a FASHION INDUSTRY SPECIALISTS creative and self motivated Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates Fax Resume: 212-779-2535 Attn: Richie Please fax resume to 212-221-2332 knowledge of Handbags & Accessories New Frontier Holdings, LLC a must. Fax resume: 212-897-3733 graphic/textile artist for our children’s GILBERT CAREER RESUMES Designer $60-$70K. Current exp. in girls or jr. wear division. Individual must have (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa substantial Photoshop/Illustrator intimate apparel. Panties, bras, tanks, crops, Designer to $100K. Current exp in updated con- fashionresumes.com color concepts etc + creative + tech. Hang w/ GRAPHIC ARTIST skills, strong color sense and ability to fashioncareercenter.com temporary missy dresses + 2 piece dressing. Major apparel company seeks graphic create and style print & pattern in Vandale, Sarah lee, Inner Secrets, Berlin, etc. e Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy Print driven.Georgettes, etc. Strong knowledg artist with experience in infant/toddler - multiple colorways. Must have a of fit Product devel. India co background help- boys. Must be proficient in Illustrator/ bachelors degree & must have min. 3 ful not nec. Siimilar fashion vision to Sue Photoshop. years experience in this field. DESIGNER Wong, Johnny Was, VonFursternerg, etc. Fax resume to 212-239-2766 Please fax resume to 212-971-2277 Apparel company seeks talented Call: 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 creative Designer with experience for Updating/Phone Interviews girls 4-16. Fashion Denim background Designer to $110K. Current exp. in JR. GRAPHIC ARTIST PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. and Junior inspired looks a plus. Must sptswr/dresses. Strong in wovens. Sleepwear Co. seeks Graphic Artist Knitting Production Mgr to $50K. current 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 be proficient in Photoshop and/or Must hang w/CDC, Rampage, City tri- proficient in MAC Photoshop & Illus- ep. managiing knitters on Stoll CMS (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 Illustrator. angle, Byer, Rappers, my Michelle, Jo- trator. Strong drawing skills a must! machines. Train/supervise 8. Co. will relo www.resumesforfashion.com Fax resume to: 212-239-2766 nathan Martin, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Fax resume: (212) 202-4396, attn. Mary you to West Coast. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy WWD, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 24, 2003 15 Umberto Angeloni’s Pleasure Principle

NEW YORK — Anyone who names a book series “The Art of Living Well” must have some experience on the subject. Umberto Angeloni, businessman, aesthete and bon vivant, is an expert. While the phrase “bon vivant” seems to imply a cer- tain degree of self-indulgence, Angeloni fully embraces the term, calling his latest book, “Seducing the Senses: Spa Visions of a Bon Vivant.” “The Italians are so good at the art of living well,” says Angeloni, chairman of Brioni, an Italian men’s wear firm with a growing women’s business. His first book in the series celebrated single-malt whiskey, which he claims is an Italian passion. Who knew? “Seducing the Senses,” which is being released this week, is not a guide to the best spas in the world, but rather a meditation on the spa principles that Angeloni finds essential to living the good life. “This is not The book is lavishly illustrated with photos by a how-to book,” stresses Angeloni, who visits a Linda Troeller, stylized illustrations by Richard spa at least once a week. “You make your Gray of women indulging in spa treatments own rules and find your own path through such as mud and water therapy and 18th- fulfillment and pleasure.” Arts century engravings of Baden Baden and But first, a warning: Even the best spas Thermae of Diocletian in Rome. There are today are woefully inadequate compared also George Hoyningen-Huene’s beach- with the spas that existed during Roman wear and bathing suit photos, which were times. “The Romans had it all right and all originally published in Vogue in the figured out thousands of years ago,” says & Twenties and Thirties, as well as reproduc- Angeloni, who became chief executive of People tions of such works as Ingres’ “The Turkish Brioni in 1990. “We still don’t have it right, Bath,” painted in 1863, and Sir Laurence Alma- 2,000 years later. Spas were a meeting place. It Tadema’s “Baths of Caracalla,” 1899. was about nudity and proximity to other people. Angeloni’s next subject will be bigger and broader, Wellness was part of their everyday life. but no less hedonistic: how to derive pleasure from “We are told we shouldn’t indulge too much or have too plants and flowers. Angeloni, who says it takes almost much pleasure. Western society is still pretty repressed.” two years to bring a book to fruition, plans to publish his “Seducing the Senses,” which will be published in five third effort in 2005. Above: “A Favorite Custom,” painted by Sir Lawrence Alma- languages, will be given to Brioni clients gratis and sold “I’ll explore scent, food and art,” he says. “I now have Tadema in 1909. Right: An illustration by Richard Gray for “The in select bookstores for $60. Angeloni says the book’s this thing about plants and flowers.” Art of Living Well.” Both images appear in the book. price doesn’t come close to covering its publishing costs. — Sharon Edelson

LICENSING Sales Representative wanted for new Production Manager Sales Assistant upscale celebrity-designed accessory line. COORDINATOR Busy NJ based co. seeks Sales Assistant Must have strong industry contacts. NYC apparel co seeks licensing coordi- Leading Accessories Company is seek- for children’s/infants’toys & accessories Please Fax resume to: 212-877-7869 nator with min 3 yrs exp to handle ing an experienced Production Manag- division. Must have sales experience, con/fac to finished product submission. er for its backpack and lightweight Accounts Manager to $150K base ++. and be computer literate. Travel is Successful applicant will have bag division. Must have a minimum of Current exp. in private label cut & required. Please Fax or E-mail resume exp/relationships with licensors; must two years experience in price negotia- sewn knit tops, missy and large size, and salary requirements to: understand character art & style guide. 4-12 dollar wholesale. Min 5 yrs exp Studio Sales tion. Prior overseas travel a plus. The 201-567-2366 / [email protected] Excellent follow-up & organizational ideal candidate will have the opportuni- in this mkt req’d. Must hang w/ HIGH SALARY skills needed as well as initiative. OT ty to manage a growing business and Golden Touch, E.S. Sutton, ISG, Busy textile design studio seeks exp’d. may be req. Great benefits. lead a team of production coordina- Regatta etc. Take over established Salesperson. Fax resume: 212-575-2002 Fax resume: 212-696-8450 tors. Responsibilities will include the accts. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy day to day operation of the depart- ments as well as involvement in price Marketing Director negotiation. Very creative and lots of experience in the beauty industry need only apply. Weoffer an excellent compensation Cecile & Jeanne Please only email resume with salary and benefits package including a A European leader in fashion jewelry, SALES EXECUTIVE/ requirements to: [email protected] 401(k) plan. For immediate considera- is seeking exceptional, highly motivated tion please fax resumes including sales associates for full and part-time MERCHANDISE MGR salary history and requirements to: floor positions at its exclusive Manhattan New contemporary sportswear line Merchandisers - F/T & P/T 212-842-3217 boutiques. The ideal candidate will have seeking experienced sales executive/ Want to enter into the jewelry wholesale Synergies Sourcing , a global agency in aminimum of 3 yrs. sales experience in merchandise manager with minimum market place? This established fine NYC is seeking a PT/FT production fashion retail, high-end preferred and 3 years experience in this market. jewelry manufacturer is recruiting. assistant. Minimum of 3 years apparel RECEPTIONIST have excellent customer communication Responsibilities include targeted sales JR. SALES -Train to be a successful industry experience required with knowl- Well polished receptionist needed to skills. Compensation includes base salary effort with major department and sales & merchandising person. Report edge of both knit/woven products. Must meet/greet and handle phones. Must and incentive bonus plus employee dis- specialty stores, product development, directly to Sales Manager. Assist in all be fluent in excel/word. Fax/E-mail to: know MS Word. Excel helpful. Much counts on jewelry. and line merchandising. sales functions. Great growth oppty. 212-619-0933 room for growth. Please fax resumes to: (212) 595-5097 Please fax resumes to Jennifer Mallicote EXP’D JEWELRY SALES EXEC. - [email protected] Fax resume to Rina: 212-594-3165 at 212-391-4327 or email at Outside Sales Rep to maintain accounts SALES KIDS HI$ [email protected] and expand business. New territories 1. V.P. - girls branded spts to Dept. nationwide available. Great income PATTERNMAKER Stores. potential. [email protected] 10 years experience in high-end women’s 2. Sls - 7/16 girls knits to mass. or Fax: (212) 398-0721 3. Sls - 2-14 girls branded spts to Dept COUTURE BRIDAL market / eveningwear a must. Please Bridal Salon in NY seeks experienced, Sales Manager Fax resume to: 212-868-6879 Stores. 4. Sls - boys urban 4-20 to mid-tier. energetic individuals for f/t, p/t sales National Slipper Company seeks Sales 5. Sls - boys/girls 4-14, 4/20 to mass. positions. Salary commensurate w/ Manager with primary focus on Depart- PATTERNMAKER exp. Please fax resume: 212-253-2704. ment Stores. Responsibilities will in- Requires 5+years experience & famili- 6. Sls - inf/tod to Dept. Stores. 7. Sls - girls outerwear to mass. clude total top and bottom line sales, arity with Gerber PDS system & WEB as well as involvement in Product De- PDM; garment construction & sewing 8. Sls - inf gift sets to mass and mid-tier velopment, Packaging, Fixtures and knowledge required; must be A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. other related marketing areas. Knowl- computer literate, team player with 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 edge or past experience in the slipper goodcommunication skills. Competi- classification is helpful but not neces- tive salary & benefits; EOE. Sourcing Professional EPILOGUE sary. Buying experience with Depart- Fax resume to 212-764-9210 or email Jr./Children Swimwear mfr. seeks well ment Stores or Specialty Stores is a [email protected] organized professional to source inter- SALES POSITION plus. If you feel like you are the right Reps w/Showrooms Wanted PATTERN/SAMPLE MAKER national fabric & full package resources. Division of Rhapsody Clothing, Inc. person for this position, please forward Women’s grosgrain belts, sandals and Communication with factories essential. Established Junior’s company looking your resume with salary requirements. accessories. Lilly Pulitzer type products HANDBAGS Experience & travel a must. for a professional individual for our NY Your resume and any interview will be & account base. Prefer showrooms in FREELANCER - 10 years exp. req’d. Please fax/email resume (212) 575-8135 showroom. Must have strong Department held in complete confidence. We offer Major Markets. Call: 954-989-8808 Fax resume: 516-897-9733 or [email protected] store relationships. Please send resume: an excellent compensation and bene- Fax: (213) 488-9611 or fits package. For consideration please Prod Asst $40’s SPEC TECH $50K Email: [email protected] Fabric Asst Junior sportswear cut/ sew knits email resume to: [email protected]. Knowledge Of Yarns Jennifer*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Weutilize drug screening as a condi- [email protected] [email protected] tion of employment. We are an equal opportunity employer PRODUCTION SPEC TECH EEO/AA/M/F/D/V Childrenswear Company seeks experi- COORDINATOR enced Spec Tech for Girls and Boys Boston apparel Co. seeks Prod. Coord. division. Should have working knowl- Sales NYC Based Positions w/5yrs. exper. in ordering & tracking edge of specs, grading and production FAST GROWING LINE Current exp. in these markets req’d. fabric, yields, cut tickets, inventory, with overseas factories. Candidate 7th Ave Designer Sportswear Company Girls 7-16 to dept/specialty stores packing slip and dist. Must be detail must be strong in Excel and have good seeks experienced salespeople to grow Missy dresses/sportswear dept store mkt. ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS *** oriented, computer literate with high follow up and tracking skills. Must be its expanding collections. Candidates Junior tops private label or branded Do you need exp’d DESIGNERS, PRODUC- energy and positive attitude. Very fast organized and detail oriented. should have min. 5 years designer level Womens better casual sprtswr private label TION, ACCOUNTING, TECHNICAL etc. staff? paced environment. Fax: 617-521-8708 Fax resume to 212-239-2766 experience. Fax resumes to 509-757-7814 Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agency **CALL 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy.** with the last word. The Authority on Retail and Style