SPONSORED BY THE UPPER AUSTRIAN BOARD, THE TOURIST BOARD , AND THE UPPER TOURIST BOARD

UPPER AUSTRIA JEWEL OF THE DANUBE Subhead

FROM THE CHARMING VILLAGES OF THE DACHSTEIN WORLD HERITAGE REGION , THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF WOLFGANGSEE AND THE DANUBE TO THE URBAN SOPHISTICATION OF LINZ, IS A FEAST FOR THE SENSES

This natural bend in the Danube, one of the river’s most majestic parts, is known as Schlögener Schlinge. PHOTO: JOHANN STEININGER SPECIAL SECTION UPPER AUSTRIA

JOHANN STEININGER

In Upper Austria, a visitor can find everything from historical fortresses standing sentry over the winding Danube River, pristine mountain lakes, rugged precipices, quaint inns, and cozy taverns to the capital city of arrived in the village more than 30 years

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Linz, which successfully combines the old and new. It’s an enticing destination for the discerning traveler. ago from Graz to marry a local girl. He and R

M T his wife, Verena, run an historic inn and R S CZ E EC U H R TEXT BY MICHAEL TROY Passau G EP A AUS . tavern by the lake. With its cozy ambiance TRIA and distinctive, timbered interior (enhanced by Lobisser’s talents as a carpenter), Engelhartszell D Bräugasthof Lobisser represents the best a S10 n LAND OF LAKES, LAND OF DELIGHTS Schlögener Schlinge u b

of Hallstatt. Further down the lakeshore is e

the Janu sports shop, which at first seems R iver ustria’s lake district, the two-hour train ride, or about one and a The presence of salt explains the well- more like the quaint mom and pop shops Linz 119 Salzkammergut, is spectacularly half hours by car from Linz or . preserved artifacts made of wood and of days gone by until you enter BLUE DANUBE Klam Grein A8 AIRPORT beautiful and home to one of The village is a key site of an early Iron cloth, including 7,000-year-old shoes and the basement, where the wall Enns Europe’s oldest pre-Christian Age culture known as Hallstatt culture, miners’ backpacks discovered in the 19th of a medieval residence 143 St. Florian Wels A1 A1 Acivilizations. The landscape boasts snow- which flourished in Central Europe from century. Because of excavations carried and remnants of Roman A8 309 A G U E S capped mountain peaks, long hiking paths, the 8th to the 6th centuries b.c. The out through the years, archeologists have a foundations still stand. R T M R U PPER A USTRIA Steyr I A A rolling valleys, and the crystalline waters of first settlements of this idyllic village date remarkably detailed picture of ancient life in A new addition in N

Y 76 lakes. back almost seven millennia to the salt the region. the famous village is the

The heart of the area, the UNESCO mines of Neolithic times. “White gold,” Hallstatt’s salt mine, thought to be the meticulously and creatively Attersee Gmunden 140 World Heritage region Hallstatt- Dachstein, as the mineral was known, gave the oldest in the world, still operates. Part renovated four-star lakeside Attersee Traunsee 115 is easily accessible from Linz or Salzburg. The Salzkammergut its name—literally the of the mine is open to the public; tours Heritage . Located strategically Mondsee towns of Hallstatt, Obertraun, Bad Goisern, “Estate of the Salt Chamber.” Nestled in are available April through October. The in the town center, it consists of and Gosau are renown for their natural steep rocky cliffs, Hallstatt is so unique cable car that takes visitors to the top three different historic houses, cleverly Salzburg St. Wolfgang charm, breathtaking vistas, traditions, and that a replica of it was built in China’s affords a spectacular view of the lake and intertwined, containing 42 newly renovated Wolfgangsee sports—everything from hiking, biking, and Guangdong province—an inducement for surrounding mountains. double rooms and 12 suites, each uniquely S L O VAKIA skiing to swimming and golf. Asian visitors to come to Austria to admire Only about 900 people live in the town styled and furnished, some with stunning Bratislava At the region’s center is Hallstatt, a the real thing. year-round. One is Arnold Lobisser, who vistas of the famous lake. Each house has a Budapesest special flair and one, Haus Stocker, with its Hallstatt Hallstätter See HUNH NGG ARY 010 20 mi striking stone façade and cast iron window gratings, is the oldest house in the center 0 10 20 300 km

of Hallstatt. This hotel compound is rapidly MAP BY NICK SPRINGER, SPRINGER CARTOGRAPHICS becoming a popular choice for visitors. The hotel restaurant, with its fine selection of local world-famous vacation destination, especially 86° Fahrenheit. It’s open year-round, so that and international specialties, should not be after the celebrated lakeside hotel The White even less-than-hardy souls can enjoy bathing missed. Horse Inn (Im Weissen Rössl) became the in mid-winter surrounded by the nighttime , or Wolfgangsee as it is setting of the 1930 smash-hit musical comedy reflections of snowfields and mountain called in German, located about 45 minutes of the same name. This family-run hotel is peaks. from Hallstatt, is a smart choice for an more than 100 years old. It consists of nine Yes, the hills of the Salzkammergut are still extended stay. The lake water, a transparent brightly painted, interconnected historic alive with , as well as a turquoise rimmed with white sand beaches, houses in the center of the old town—their beguiling present and past.  is a visual treat. Travelers will also gravitate interior walls adorned with memorabilia of to the historic cogwheel steam railway bygone eras and movie stars. Furnishings that For more information, please visit: that chugs its way up from St. Wolfgang, once belonged to the early 20th-century film smithsonian.upperaustria.at past idyllic hiking paths, vast fields of flora, actor are placed in different Tourism Dachstein Salzkammergut: ancient chapels engulfed by wildly growing rooms throughout the hotel. [email protected]; dachstein- Surrounded by the Salzkammergut The quaint village of Hallstatt traces shrubbery, and traditional taverns offering is St. Wolfgang’s salzkammergut.at/en. The White Horse Inn, mountains, the White Horse Inn back seven millennia, when salt culinary temptations. center of gravity. It has a “floating pool” set Lake Wolfgang: [email protected], overlooks Lake Wolfgang. mined here was called “white gold.” Lake Wolfgang has long been a into the lake with a constant temperature of weissesroessl.at/en THE WHITE HORSE INN/HANNES DABERNIG DACHSTEIN SALZKAMMERGUT/VIOREL MUNTEANU SPECIAL SECTION UPPER AUSTRIA

LINZ TOURISMUS/JOHANN STEININGER

A CAPITAL SOJOURN art collection, including several Herbert state-of-the-art facility and, despite the Anyone visiting Linz must also put one Beyer drawings. Born in Upper Austria, 1,000-seat-capacity, still emits a cozy, special stop on their list, ideally in early Beyer is a regional icon: a visionary figure woodsy charm. The delightful das Anton morning or late afternoon: the 20-minute trategically located along the descends upon the visitor. For those who Schlossberg (city castle), with a grand view of the Bauhaus movement whose ideas restaurant serves Austrian specialties as ride up to the Pöstlingberg on the historic Danube River, Linz was for almost enjoy discovering things on their own, the over city rooftops; the castle houses an profoundly influenced many remarkable well as imaginative, contemporary cuisine. cogwheel trolley. The stunning, 180-degree 400 years the sleepy, provincial old town offers unexpected encounters: excellent restaurant. It’s the perfect location personalities, among them Apple founder From late spring to early fall, outdoor panoramic view from city rooftops to the capital of Upper Austria before palaces quietly, almost unobtrusively, for an alfresco lunch on the terrace, Steve Jobs. cafes line the inner city avenues and the snow-covered peaks of the Austrian Sit became an industrial hub in the early restored to former glory and hidden followed perhaps by a visit to the adjacent and inns are plentiful in Linz, old town features numerous restaurants, is as breathtaking as anything you will ever 20th century. Prior to World War I, it was courtyards with plaques commemorating art museum. and all are hospitable and clean to a bars, and clubs that stay open late for night see. a small, walled enclave of some 25,000 famous citizens or visitors. On the east side of the central square is high standard. I stayed at the fashionably owls. Josefs Das Stadtbrau along the main The private, highly respected Anton inhabitants amid the rolling hills surrounding There is the stately Mozart house, the historic City Hall where one can literally minimalist and modern Hotel am Domplatz, street (Landstrasse 49), or the Herberstein Bruckner University, situated just below it. Today, Linz is a modern mini-metropolis where, during a short stay in late 1783, walk over a fascinating floor plan of the with a fantastic view of the cathedral and in the old town (Altstadt 10), with its the Pöstlingberg, attracts music students of about 200,000, with a visionary approach the maestro wrote the Linz Symphony. entire city. The German mathematician and well within walking distance of most inner lounge-like, historic inner courtyard, from around the world. The renowned to the future as well as a proud and strong According to legend, it only took him astronomer Johannes Kepler, another famous city highlights. provide a good mix of trendy and laid-back Brucknerhaus concert hall offers many attachment to its past. In 2014 it was four days to compose it; the symphony citizen of Linz, lived here from 1612 to 1627. Because Linz is a city of music, an coolness. topnotch classical concerts throughout the accorded the status of UNESCO City of premiered the same year in Linz. Wandering down toward the Danube evening visit to the recently opened opera Linz is also noted for its pastry, above year. Bruckner, a 19th century composer Media Arts. Also on the west side of the square from the old town and, diagonally across house is something of a must. Operas, all the famous Linzer Torte, considered the particularly noted for his symphonies, is, Its early history dates to around 400 (to the left, if you are facing the Danube) from it, situated idyllically on the riverbank, , musicals, and concerts are on world’s oldest-known cake recipe. A stop at after all, a son of Linz. b.c., with remains of past settlements found there is a winding path leading up to the is the Lentos Museum with its impressive the agenda throughout the year. It is a Jindrak’s pastry shop is, therefore, essential. On the trolley ride back to town, it on the outskirts of the city. Churches and is advisable to get off one stop before monasteries still abound in and around the town square station and pay the Linz; the influence of the Catholic Church Ars Electronica Center a visit. Four floors on the city’s history is profound. The Linz of stunning exhibitions and installations, Cathedral (Mariendom), built in 1885, is the including a 45-minute presentation largest church in Austria and can hold up in 8K 3D, is something no serious techie to 20,000 people. Because of ecclesiastical (regardless of age) would want to jealousies, the church tower had to remain miss. 10 feet lower than the more famous In the warmer months, the visitor can St. Stephen’s Cathedral in . The attach a digital device (like a smartphone or tower, however, offers something unique: iPad) to an outside terminal, lie back, and a hermitage, or hermit’s room, which for watch as a personal light show illuminates 700 Euros (around $760) can be rented the night sky and interprets the music for a week. It’s the ideal place to discover of choice. In late summer, it is the venue one’s inner-self—if you can manage the 395 for the highly regarded international Ars steps to the ascetic hideaway. Judging by the Electronica Festival. bookings, it seems there is a healthy market As the Danube flows through Linz, it is for seclusion and introspection. certainly worth taking one of the excursion Centrally located near the Danube, Linz’s boats like the glorious vintage steamer, the historical central square is a starting point Schönbrunn, to explore the sights along for strolling through the meandering, mostly the riverbanks, especially in the warmer pedestrian-only stone streets of the old months. town that encircles it. A popular saying in Austria is: “It all begins The city’s modernity is inescapable, but in Linz.” There’s so much to do, see, and as one wanders the cobblestone inner discover in the Linz area, a return trip or a city walkways, surrounded by historical Linz Cathedral, Austria’s The sun rises over the Linz Castle longer stay is highly recommended.  buildings and colorful, meticulously restored largest church, offers travelers Museum, famed for its exhibitions on a secluded place to stay. Upper Austrian culture, history, and art. townhouses, a delightful sense of the past For more information: linztourismus.at/en LINZ TOURISMUS/ ANDREAS ROEBL LINZ TOURISMUS/JOHANN STEININGER SPECIAL SECTION UPPER AUSTRIA

ÖSTERREICH WERBUNG/BURGSTALLER

TALES AND TRAILS ALONG THE DANUBE Austria, which rises imposingly on a town privileges in 1212. One imposing hillside just outside Linz, is an historical landmark, the belfry on its historic central and spiritual gem. Guided tours in English square, was erected between 1564 and ne of most fascinating areas Consider the Abbey of Engelszell, on traditional craftsmanship. Look in on take the visitor through the library, St. 1568, during the reign of Austrian Emperor along the Danube’s serpentine which dates back to 1293 and includes the Zille exhibition of traditional boat- Florian’s corridor, the grand Marble Hall, the Maximillian II. path is the Upper Austria a magnificently restored rococo- building in the vicinity. A restaurant and remarkable Altdorfer gallery, the Collegiate Ever consider staying in a one-room hotel? region, which begins at the inspired 18th-century church, full of art a modern hotel, situated scenically along church, and the tomb. For the adventurous and energetic traveler OGerman border near Passau. Be it by masterpieces. The abbey also houses a the riverbank, are part of this appealing, The monastery has an extraordinary undaunted by the 71 steps leading up to it, boat, car, train, bicycle, or on foot, an Trappist brewery—one of the few outside modern complex, enticing the visitor to musical heritage, dating back to the 9th an overnight stay in one of the most unique extended excursion along this part of the of Belgium—that uses only locally grown stop for a meal or even an overnight. century. This fine tradition persists to the hotel rooms imaginable can be booked here. river is full of countless outdoor activities, ingredients for its traditional brews, in The surrounding countryside is unspoiled present with the renowned St. Florian It is located in the Enns town tower, 65 feet stunning scenery, and fascinating cultural strict accordance with Trappist brewing and a joy to discover. One of the most Boys’ Choir. And the famous church above the historic central square. The large AVALON CRUISE treasures. traditions. This special beer is exported to spectacular natural sites is the Schlögener organ, completed in 1774 and one of the room has been impressively restored and has Ensconced in the rolling hills lining the the United States. Schlinge (Schlinge meaning “noose” in most noteworthy in Europe, inspired the every modern convenience. Avalon’s new Active Discovery Danube’s path are medieval monasteries, A little further down the Danube, German, in reference to the astounding compositions of Anton Bruckner, who was The Danube was not always as easy cruises offer a world of possibilities ancient, painstakingly restored castles, heading southeast, lie the workshops horseshoe bend the river makes here). The organist here from 1848 to 1855. to navigate as it is today; the notorious to experience the upper Danube. enticing inns, and cozy traditional taverns, of two of the last flat-bottom wooden panoramic view from the adjacent hilltop is The historic town of Enns is another whirlpools at the town of Grein were feared Choose the excursions and activities each with compelling tales, many shrouded boat (Zille) builders in Austria. They are not to be missed. wonderful discovery. Considered the oldest by boatmen and travelers for many centuries. that appeal to you most—like hiking in mystery, but all the more intriguing for family-run businesses, still producing three The Augustine monastery of St. Florian, city in Austria (the first settlements in the Today, after extensive river engineering, this from Linz up Mount Pöstlingberg, their ambiguity. different, hand-made boat models, based named for the patron saint of Upper area date back 4,000 years), it was accorded section is one of the most tranquil segments jogging between famous landmarks along the Danube. The charming riverside in Vienna, biking east of Linz to town boasts Austria’s oldest theater and an ancient Roman border defense the family-owned Greinburg castle, built fort, walking along the route that between 1488 and 1493. The ducal family smugglers took during World War still lives there, but parts of it are opened to II across the closed border between the public. Austria and , or even Another family-owned castle-fortress canoeing down the Danube and its is Burg Clam, first mentioned in 1149 and tributaries. You will experience the owned by the Clam family for 550 years. Old World in a brand new way. A personal tour of the castle by Count or • Starting at price: $3,769† Countess Clam can easily be arranged and a • avalonwaterways.com/active sumptuous dinner with the royal hosts can † Per person land/cruise only price, based on double-occupancy in base category cabin. also be booked. In the summer, one can even Price does not include air. (Air-inclusive pricing stay overnight in one of the ornate historic available.) chambers. Many interesting sites are just waiting to be discovered along the Upper Austrian One charming and thoroughly relaxing section of the Danube. One can ride on alternative is to travel on comfortable, the popular Danube cycle path the entire modern Danube cruise ships, with floor- 330 kilometers (205 miles) from Passau all to-ceiling cabin windows. These ships stop the way down to Vienna. The scenic route at the most popular sites. In the summer along the river is full of hospitable taverns months various tour boats also cruise along and traditional, comfortable inns. Hikers the river on a daily basis. will delight in the breathtaking Donausteig, Go with the flow: The Danube makes for The late-Baroque library at Monastery St. Built in 1149, castle Burg Clam The Trappist monks at the a hiking trail along the river, with its 450 a timeless experience.  Florian contains 150,000 volumes, most of stands on green grounds, with Abbey of Engelszell use locally kilometers (280 miles) of verdant paths for which predate the 20th century. farmhouses and forests nearby. grown ingredients in their beer. all ages and abilities. For more information: donauregion.at/en WGD DONAU OBERÖSTERREICH TOURISMUS GMBH/HOCHHAUSER BURG CLAM WGD DONAU OBERÖSTERREICH TOURISMUS GMBH/PETER PODPERA SPONSORED BY THE UPPER AUSTRIAN TOURISM BOARD, THE TOURIST BOARD LINZ, AND THE DANUBE UPPER AUSTRIA TOURIST BOARD

UPPER AUSTRIA JEWEL OF THE DANUBE Subhead

FROM THE CHARMING VILLAGES OF THE DACHSTEIN WORLD HERITAGE REGION SALZKAMMERGUT, THE NATURAL BEAUTY OF WOLFGANGSEE AND THE DANUBE TO THE URBAN SOPHISTICATION OF LINZ, UPPER AUSTRIA IS A FEAST FOR THE SENSES

This natural bend in the Danube, one of the river’s most majestic parts, is known as Schlögener Schlinge. PHOTO: JOHANN STEININGER

AS SEEN IN SMITHSONIAN JOURNEYS