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Navarrapormilcaminos.Pdf NAVARRA POR MIL CAMINOS NAVARRA POR MIL CAMINOS JAVIER PAGOLA LORENTE Título: Navarra por mil caminos Autor del texto: Javier Pagola Lorente Autores de las fotografías: Gema Arrugaeta, Azpilicueta y Domench, Carlos Cánovas, José Ramón Carmona, Jesús Caso, Javier Ederra, Xabi Landa, Larrión & Pimoulier, Nicolás López, José Ignacio Moreno, Jorge Nagore, Paco Ocaña, Luis Otermin, Xabi Otero y Archivo de la Institución Príncipe de Viana (ver relación detallada en pág. 231) © Gobierno de Navarra Departamento de Relaciones Institucionales y Portavoz del Gobierno © Javier Pagola Lorente Coordinación editorial: Sección de Publicaciones Diseño y maquetación: Bega Comunicación 1.ª edición: I. G. Casturera, S.A., 1999 1.ª reimpresión: I. G. Castuera, S.A., 2000 2.ª reimpresión: Gráficas Estella, 2001 3.ª reimpresión: I. G. Castuera, S.A., 2001 2.ª edición: Arc Spacegrafic, S.L., 2004 i.ª reimpresión de la 2.ª edición: Arc Spacegrafic, S.L., 2004 2.ª reimpresión de la 2.ª edición: Litografía Ipar, S.L., 2005 3.ª reimpresión de la 2.ª edición: I. G. Castuera, S.A., 2007 3.ª edición: Gráficas Lizarra, S.L., 2008 ISBN: 978-84-235-3037-3 Depósito Legal: NA. 821/2008 Promociona y distribuye: Fondo de Publicaciones del Gobierno de Navarra c/ Navas de Tolosa, 21 31002 Pamplona Teléfono 848 - 42 71 21 Fax: 848 - 42 71 23 [email protected] http://www.cfnavarra.es/publicaciones PRESENTACIÓN Navarra ha sido siempre tierra de mil caminos. Su posición geo- lo visitaron. Si ya conoce el lugar, este libro proporcionará a su lec- gráfica entre la Europa continental y la Península Ibérica la ha tor un compendio de ideas básicas con el que podrá percibir, con convertido en zona de paso obligado, en cruce de grandes cami- nuevos ojos y con mayor significado, el paraje que ya le resultaba nos por los que han llegado y se han mezclado distintas culturas, familiar. lenguas y religiones. Entre ellos resalta el Camino por antono- La prosa maestra de Javier Pagola, impregnada de la precisión masia, la ruta jacobea hacia Compostela que los reyes de Navarra del reportero experimentado y de la emoción de quien ama pro- favorecieron, ruta que hoy mantienen viva sus monumentos, y so- fundamente lo que describe, guiará suavemente al lector, desbro- bre todo el espíritu de los miles de peregrinos que la siguen reco- zando el camino del conocimiento, de las sensaciones y de la ma- rriendo cada año y el sentimiento de los navarros, que la aprecia- gia que conforma la idea integral que transmite de cada uno de los mos como una de nuestras más recias señas de identidad. Además, lugares reseñados. Además, las fotografías elegidas le acercarán, otros caminos menores —senderos agrestes y recoletos— condu- con la inmediatez propia de toda expresión plástica, a la realidad cen a los rincones más escondidos de nuestro territorio, donde me- descrita. jor se puede disfrutar de la vida natural —que en Navarra se pre- Los 24 capítulos del libro son 24 propuestas sugestivas para senta con espectacular y variado despliegue— y donde se conser- conocer otros tantos lugares diferentes de esta tierra variada y atrac- van con mayor autenticidad las raíces de nuestro pueblo. Hoy esos tiva. Eso sí, todo lo que en él aparece es Navarra, pero, lamenta- mil caminos están a disposición de quien quiera recorrerlos y de- blemente, no toda Navarra aparece en esta obra. La dimensión de see saborear, a cada paso, las sorprendentes realidades que Nava- este volumen ha obligado a escoger unos lugares, y por tanto a rra le ofrece. no incluir otros que, quizás con el mismo mérito para figurar, han Este libro trata de ayudar a quien lo lea a disfrutar mejor de quedado al margen o tan sólo levemente dibujados. su viaje a los más destacados lugares de Navarra, sean o no cono- El objetivo de esta obra, querido lector, se cumplirá si acep- cidos para él. Si hojea sus páginas sin haber visitado el lugar que tas la invitación que cada capítulo representa para que te intereses en ellas se describe, el lector aprovechará de su texto los datos esen- por la zona descrita y la conozcas; o si relees, después de haberlas ciales de la historia, de la riqueza naturalística, de las leyendas que visitado, estas páginas donde se esbozan algunas de las rutas de al lugar se atribuyen, de lo que han dicho de él los autores más sa- Navarra, alguno de los mil caminos que Navarra te ofrece para bios y de cuanto dejaron escrito los personajes ilustres que antes adentrarte en su rica y variada realidad. NAVARRA POR MIL CAMINOS 7 MAR CANTÁBRICO Bera-Vera Irún de Bidasoa Zugarramurdi SAN SEBASTIÁN Saint Jean de Pied de Port PAU Lesaka Urdax R Etxalar ío B i d a s o a Señorío Arizkun de Bértiz Francia Elizondo Guipúzcoa Ituren Irurita Zubieta Luzaide-Valcarlos Oloron- Ste.-Marie Quinto Leitza Puerto Real de Belate Embalse Embalse de Eugui Orreaga- Lantz Roncesvalles de Irabia Selva Puerto de Belagoa Auritz- Orbaitzeta del Irati Burguete Sierra Aurizberri- Belagoa de Aralar San Miguel Foz de de Aralar Espinal Zubiri Garralda Mintxate il Irurtzun Ochagavía Mesa de los rak i o A b í o Tres Reyes R Valle de r i t r a E r Altsasu I Ultzama o San Donato í ío R R Isaba a c s Foz de E ío R Txintxurrenea r Sierra a Sierra z a l Roncal Álava de Andía a de Urbasa S PAMPLONA o rga í Río A R Aoiz Embalse Tiebas Monasterio Huesca de Alloz Navascués de Iranzu Astrain Foz de Burgui R Puerto Monreal Foz de í o Arbayún U del Perdón Burgui r e d Puente Idocin e Obanos r r a la Reina Foz de Monasterio Estella Eunate Lumbier de Leire a Monasterio Eg Alto de Río de Irache Loiti Yesa Mendigorría La Liédena Monasterio Monjardín Valdorba Sangüesa de Azuelo Javier Artajona Aibar Pantano de Yesa Torres Los Arcos Larraga San Martín R í de Unx del Río o E Tafalla g a Ujué Viana Peña Petilla Olite de Aragón LOGROÑO Laguna Pitillas Río Ebro Lodosa de Pitillas gón Monasterio ío Ara R de la Oliva R í o A r g San Adrián a Marcilla Bardenas Reales La Rioja Corella Poblaciones Cintruénigo Iglesia/monasterio a s le Tudela m i a e lh u Monasterio A Q Espacio natural ío ío de Fitero R R Cascante Zaragoza Castillos Monasterio de Tulebras Río E C bro Carnavales an al I mpe rial Cortes Puerto de montaña Navarra Foz Camino de Santiago SUMARIO RONCESVALLES PUENTE LA REINA Historia y leyenda .................................................................................................................. 10 Encrucijada jacobea .......................................................................................................... 126 EL PODER DEL BOSQUE ............................................................................... 18 ESTELLA Monumento y mercado ............................................................................................... 134 ZUGARRAMURDI Akelarre y cueva de brujas ............................................................................................ 28 MONASTERIOS MEDIEVALES .......................................................... 142 BORTZIRIAK CASTILLOS DEL REINO .............................................................................. 150 Las cinco villas de la montaña ................................................................................. 36 SANGÜESA ULTZAMA Fronteriza y jacobea ......................................................................................................... 158 Prados y casonas montañesas ................................................................................... 46 VALDORBA CARNAVALES PROFUNDOS ..................................................................... 54 Románico rural en el bosque mediterráneo ......................................... 166 ARALAR OLITE La montaña sagrada ............................................................................................................ 60 La ciudad gótica ................................................................................................................... 174 OCHAGAVÍA ROMEROS A UJUÉ .................................................................................................. 182 Valle de Salazar ......................................................................................................................... 68 TUDELA Y SU RIBERA ..................................................................................... 192 RONCAL El valle y la montaña .......................................................................................................... 78 LAS BARDENAS Una estepa erosionada ................................................................................................... 204 FOCES Vida y paisaje agreste ......................................................................................................... 86 VIANA y la República literaria de Yoar ........................................................................... 212 ANDÍA Y URBASA Comunal de los navarros ............................................................................................... 94 NAVARRA Tierra y gente .......................................................................................................................... 220 VIEJOS DEPORTES ................................................................................................ 102 PAMPLONA La Ciudad .................................................................................................................................... 110 Relación de fotógrafos .................................................................................................. 231 NAVARRA POR MIL CAMINOS 9 antares de gesta y crónicas de peregrinos
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