Historias Y Recetas De La Cocina Xiqueña

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Historias Y Recetas De La Cocina Xiqueña Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña 70 Cocina Indígena y Popular Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña.indd 1 10/1/2017 10:46:40 Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña Guadalupe Margarita Castillo León Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña.indd 2-3 10/1/2017 10:46:41 Mi encarecido agradecimiento a quienes generosamente abrieron su casa Primera edición, Editorial Códice, 2001 y su corazón llevándome hasta la cocina para ir sacando las historias Primera edición en Cocina Indígena y Popular, 2016 guardadas en los jarros, ollas y cazuelas. Producción Secretaría de Cultura Dirección General de Culturas Populares A mi querida amiga Lorena Acosta Vázquez, por su confianza, siempre. Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña © 2016 Guadalupe Margarita Castillo León A la bondadosa señorita Constantina Alarcón, por las tardes de neblina y pláticas interminables; a su sobrino Pepe Alarcón, por la risa y Coordinación de la colección: las travesuras infantiles. Mauricio Antonio Avila Serratos Rodolfo Candelas Castañeda A la memoria del matrimonio Suárez Moreno, juntos en la vida, la sazón y el camino. D.R. © 2016 de la presente edición Dirección General de Culturas Populares Av. Paseo de la Reforma 175, piso 12 A Eleonay Castillo León y sus tamales canarios. Col. Cuauhtémoc, C.P. 06500 Ciudad de México A Ramón Cortés y su familia. Las características gráficas y tipográficas de esta edición son propiedad de la Dirección General de Culturas Populares A Claudio Martínez Carpinteyro, por la suave dulzura con la que ama de la Secretaría de Cultura. a su tierra; a las señoritas Sara Alarcón Colorado y Micaela Sol Valdivia, Todos los derechos reservados. Queda prohibida la reproducción quienes sin conocerme compartieron sus secretos culinarios. total o parcial de esta obra por cualquier medio o procedimiento, comprendidos la reprografía y el tratamiento informático, la fotocopia o la grabación, sin la previa autorización por A Rosy, de Tonalaco, quien preparando alimentos crea una mejor vida escrito de la Secretaría de Cultura/ para sus hijas. Dirección General de Culturas Populares. ISBN: 978-607-745-553-0 A Rocío, de Xico Viejo... por los huevos de dinosaurio. Impreso y hecho en México A la luciernaguita que revolotea y da luz a mi vida. Y, por supuesto, al niño de la burrita que desde hace más de treinta años camina por mi calle empedrada. 5 Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña.indd 4-5 10/1/2017 10:46:41 ÍNDICE PRÓLOGO ......................................................................................9 En el principio fue el sabor… HISTORIAS Y RECETAS ..............................................................9 Xico es una gran cocina, una gran fábrica de mole, de pan y de LAS ALMAS QUE HABITAN LAS COCINAS .................................. 12 licores, bañada en las tardes por la niebla del Cofre y perfumada EL MAÍZ, SABOR ANCESTRAL .................................................. 14 con el olor de la leña, la tierra húmeda y sus frutos. VENDEDORA DE ALCATRACES.................................................. 16 De sus añosas casonas, con muros tapizados de cazuelas, ollas, LA ESPERANZA HUELE A PAN ................................................. 18 cántaros y cucharones, se escapan olores intensos que atrapan a SABOR A FIESTA .................................................................... 21 fieles y profanos: aromas de especias y condimentos, de hierbas, EL VESTIDO DE LA SANTA ..................................................... 23 de maíz, de cacao y frijol; de mil y un ingredientes con los que se SI DE AZÚCAR Y MAÍZ FUERAS ................................................ 26 preparan los alimentos con las mismas maneras y el mismo ritual FLOR .................................................................................... 28 con que lo hacían las familias hace cien, doscientos o más años… Proponiéndonos recuperar y divulgar algunas de estas recetas, RECETARIO .................................................................................33 entendimos pronto que toda labor por describir la preparación del mole, el pan de huevo o los frijoles con xonequi, quedaría incom- Mole de fiesta .............................................................................35 pleta de no incluir otros sutiles ingredientes que deambulan en- Mole de olla ...............................................................................37 tre los fogones y las pesadas mesas de tablón, sabores que dan el Molito de cazuela .......................................................................38 toque final a cualquier platillo: recios y profundos como el de la Chiles rellenos ...........................................................................39 añoranza, dulzones como el de la ilusión, a veces secos y amargos Tlaxcales ....................................................................................40 como el de la resignación, cálidos como los del fervor y la resigna- Frijoles con xonequi ...................................................................41 ción o tan picantes como el del escalofrío. Queso .........................................................................................42 Frijol gordo en adobo .................................................................43 Javier Estrada San Miguel Chilatole de frijol gordo con pipián ............................................44 Pan de huevo .............................................................................45 Tlayoyos, pata de mula o tamales de libro ..................................46 Tamales de bolsita......................................................................47 Tamales pintos en hojas de milpa...............................................48 Tamales pintos en hojas de xoco ................................................49 Tepache......................................................................................50 Morita ........................................................................................51 6 7 Historias y recetas de la cocina xiqueña.indd 6-7 10/1/2017 10:46:42 Verde..........................................................................................52 PRÓLOGO Torito de cacahuate ....................................................................53 Jorge Escamilla Udave Champurrado .............................................................................54 Atole de grano ............................................................................55 HISTORIAS Y RECETAS Atole de muégano ......................................................................56 Atole de piña .............................................................................57 La cocina en Xicochimalco, Veracruz Atole de capulín .........................................................................58 Atole de mora .............................................................................59 Un recetario de cocina es un compendio de emociones engarzadas Atole de cacahuate .....................................................................60 con historias familiares que evocan el pasado. Para integrarlas en Atole de coco .............................................................................61 un documento se requiere primero penetrar en la dinámica de la Tamales de coco .........................................................................62 ritualidad cotidiana y descubrir los secretos de la elaboración de Tamales xocos ............................................................................63 alimentos junto a las asonadas voces de la tradición. Tamales tlaxcales .......................................................................64 Xico es de los pueblos con arraigada tradición, que preserva Tamales canarios ........................................................................65 cierta ritualidad y respeto, presentes hasta en el simple acto de Manjar de arroz para Semana Santa ...........................................66 elaborar los alimentos de consumo diario. Al entrar en la cocina Conserva de chilacayote .............................................................67 tradicional de sus casas, las paredes atrapan nuestra atención Cincoquelite ...............................................................................68 con la caprichosa pátina que el tiempo pinta con el humo de Queltonile o quintonil ................................................................69 la leña del fogón. Las que han incorporado la estufa de gas no Chichiquelite .............................................................................70 desplazan los usos tradicionales, que persisten en la artificiosa Chilatole de gallina de rancho ...................................................71 decoración de enseres de barro en desordenada apariencia, que Chilatole de hongos ....................................................................72 en su inmovilidad y silencio vuelven a contar las particulares Adobo de flor de xaxana .............................................................73 historias que encierran, sólo basta con encender el fuego del Sopa de xaxana ..........................................................................74 recuerdo para conocer su variedad. Los trastes de barro desfilan Tortitas de xaxana ......................................................................75 frente a los ojos con dispareja unidad de tamaños y colores; así, Tortitas de gasparitos .................................................................76 la cocina xiqueña sigue siendo el corazón del hogar,
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