THE DEMONS COME OUT TO PLAY: YOUR FULL Thursday, October 27 2016 GUIDE LONDON1.10€ · Founded 1962 FAIR · N.16109 · Passeig SPECIAL de 9 A, Palma 07011 ● PAGE 11-16

● PAGE 3-10 MAJORCA:

CHANGING CALVIA: WE HAVE AFTER A GREAT HOLIDAYSEASON CALVIA PLANS FOR THE FUTURE. EVERYTHING Calvia is home to some of Britain´s fa- vourite holiday resorts. We look at their plans for the future and look back on the season.

FOOD ● PAGE 25-31

LOCAL FOOD THE DELIGHTS OF OUR CUISINE Fantastic weather, fantastic food, fantastic beaches, fantastic events. AN ISLAND WITH A WELCOME AS WARM AS THE WEATHER. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 2 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL INSIDE GUIDE

03 INTERVIEW 17 JET2 22 ORIGINS 30 GASTRONOMY Alfonso Rodriguez Travel industry History Pastry shops Bulletin editor Jason Moore talks to the Jet2 helping to promote the island during Andrew Ede outlines how flowers bloo- Andrew Valente continues with this gas- mayor of Calvia about the season and the quieter times of the year. med and created the UK’s second biggest tronomical journey with the island’s spe- their plans for the future. tour operator. cialties: cocas, empanadas and cocarrois.

25 GASTRONOMY Fresh fish 06 CALVIA 18 LISTING 34 IDEAS Bulletin restaurant critic More than sun-and- Awards and Spanish food ex- AwinterinMajorca beach tourism List of recent awards from 2016 to 2017. pertAndrew Andrew Rawson outlines that during the Valente tells winter months on the island there are Andrew Ede shows us how us which fish places to visit including monasteries, mar- this municipality acts as you can buy at kets and cultural traditions that take place one of the gateways to the Olivar market and like the barbeques of Sant Antoni or the the Tramuntana moun- get it grilled right in Three Kings parade in January. tains. Calvia town hall front of you. has also promoted the municipality 28 GASTRONOMY through highligh- ting locations of Variado films. Andrew Va- 20 SUCCESS STORY lente brings us Majorca’s gift Interview to the world of With Steve Heapy, tapas and 36 HISTORY 08 DEVELOPEMENT CEO, Jet2.com and where to find Jet2holidays . them. Seven early Changes in Calvia landmarks in Calvia’s resorts developed back well be- fore the 1960’s and Calvia is currently Majorca’s tourism transforming itself into another paradise. A breakdown of how Majorca’s tourism came about from 1838 up to 1953.

11 EVENTS What’s ON The saintly years of Majorca. A brea- 38 BIRDWATCHING kdown of the local fiestas that are cele- brated in all the villages and towns on the Sun, sea, scenery island. and sensational

Neville James-Davies shows us that the island is more than beaches and sun and that it holds a large wildlife where all kindsofbirds come to visit or presently reside. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 3

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - INTERVIEW

b Bulletin editor Jason Moore talks to the mayor of Calvia, Alfonso Rodriguez, (Magalluf, Palmanova, Santa Ponsa, among other popular resorts) about the season and Mayor of some their plans for the future.

of the most Question.— Sr. Rodríguez, what mes- therefore tightened and reinforced, by- sage is Calvia taking to the World laws were amended, and the various sec- Travel Market, the London travel tors of the tourism industry all collabo- show? rated in this. popular resorts Answer — Above all, we want to high- light the commitment we have to the Q.—The town hall introduced a series further enhancement of the quality that of measures to combat so-called already exists in the municipality’s key “booze tourism”. Have these been suc- tourist resorts - Illetes, Magalluf, Pa- cessful? with British guera, Palmanova, Portals and Santa A. — Changes to bylaws were designed Ponsa. to improve coexistence and behaviour, These all contribute to making Calvia especially in parts of the resorts with one of the most distinctive of all tourist high levels of nightlife activity. Data tourists says it destinations in the Mediterranean - from show that there is a downward trend in sun and beach to sporting and cultural ac- the number of incidents. This demon- tivities and the enjoyment of a wonder- strates to us that the implementation of ful natural environment. these measures, combined with the has been an work of the Calvia police and the Guardia Q.— What would be main highlights Civil, is already bringing beneficial re- of the 2017 season? sults. A. — This has been an excellent year. I would just like to take the opportunity There has been an increase in the number to say to young British tourists who visit EXCELLENT of four-star hotel beds and an increase in us that we very much want them to take the general family, couples and adult home great memories of their holidays, tourist market segment. and that a way of doing this is by respect- There have been intensive efforts in ing the rules - it is not a case that “any- YEAR tackling the excesses that we have unfor- thing goes”. tunately experienced. Security was CONTINUED ON FOLLOWING PAGE MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 4 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - INTERVIEW

b “Calvia is full of wonderful places, but let me mention just one small corner - the mirador viewing-point of the Malgrats Islands. For me this has been magical since I first came to Calvia thirty years ago.”

CONTINUED FROM THE PREVIOUS PAGE of quality parameters for all-inclusive ho- A. — As I’ve noted, we are investing in the We are, therefore, modifying the urban tels and the provision of alcohol only at general urban environment. Work is now plan for the municipality. Q.— Magalluf has changed, and do you meal times. We have also requested regula- starting that involves the spending of 1.5 think we are seeing the fruits of the in- tion in respect of “aggressive” promotion million euros. Over the winter and during Q.—Tourism drives the economy in Cal- vestments? of alcohol by bars and clubs. 2018, there will be another series of works. via. Do you believe that everyone is in A. — Over the past few years the hotel agreement with tourism? stock in Magalluf has been transformed in A.—I believe that in Calvia and indeed the terms of quality, and this quality is now whole of Majorca and the very much a fact in Calvia. The town hall we are very aware of the value of tourism wants other commercial sectors to take the for economic development. It is the case opportunity of modernising their busi- that there are some voices who attribute nesses, so we have opened lines of financial some nuisance factor to tourism because of assistance. In addition, there are improve- the numbers of tourists in high season. But ments to the general urban environment, what has to be done is to find solutions with more to come under our “second re- which continue to provide quality of life to conversion”. residents and to tourists. Tourism is our in- dustry and our way of life, and we defend Q.— British tourists’ spending power it with a passion and with absolutely no has decreased because of the exchange hesitation. rate. Does this concern you? A. — Any economic indicator from the Q.— British tourism has always been im- main markets for our tourism, especially portant to Calvia. Do you think that it is oneasimportanttousastheUK,issome- losing some of its strength? thing we pay close attention to. However, A.—Frankly, no, I don’t think so. In fact the the figures we have for 2017, which show most recent information from the hoteliers the loyalty of the UK market, make us op- association for Palmanova-Magalluf shows timistic. a one per cent growth this year compared with 2016. Q.— Bars and restaurants continue to Close working relationship. The mayor of Calvia with the British consul general complain about the all-inclusive offer. Is Lloyd Milen and the British vice consul Lucy Gorman. The Foreign Office and the Q.— What is your favourite spot in Cal- there anything the town hall can do? Calvia council hold regular meetings. via? A. — The town hall cannot regulate this. It A. — Calvia is full of wonderful places, but doesn’t have the powers to do so. But we Q.— The town hall is undertaking sig- Our intention is to make the streets and the let me mention just one small corner - the have made our views known to the tourism nificant investment throughout Calvia. avenues more pleasant for the residents mirador viewing-point of the Malgrats Is- ministry, which does have powers. We are What further plans do you have for the and tourists who enjoy walking in all parts lands. For me this has been magical since I seeking two measures: the establishment future? of Calvia. first came to Calvia thirty years ago. b “Tourism is our principal industry and our way of life, and we defend it with a passion.” SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 5 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 6 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - MORE THAN SAND AND SEA CALVIA: sun and beach but very much more

to , and Galilea in . These are the openings to by Andrew the World Heritage Site of the Tramun- Ede tana, the Unesco declaration a recogni- tion of the contribution of different cul- tures to the shaping of the mountains and to the preserved and constantly re- stored reminders of the economies and s with other coastal munici- means of survival that were crafted cen- palities of Majorca whose lo- turies ago. cal economies are dominated These are the dry-stone ways, walls and by tourism, Calvia is far from terraces which determine the mountain beingA just about the sun-and-beach tour- landscapes and provide routes and sights ism with which we are so familiar. This for those seeking the natural and cul- is a municipality which acts as one of tural heritage of Calvia and of Majorca. King Jaume I. PHOTO: the gateways to the Tramuntana moun- In the mountains, it can feel as though BULLETIN FILES tains. The village of Es Capdellà and the you are a million miles away, in a differ- Galatzó finca are these gateways, linked ent world to that of the coastal resorts.

Calvia.—Magalluf, Palmanova, Santa when combined as a zone with Palma, at- to mean arid terrain without vegeta- Ponsa - we know them all, just as we know tracts the third highest number of tourists tion, which can seem odd when one Illetes, Paguera and Portals Nous. These among different coastal zones of : the is aware of the abundance of vegeta- are the islands of development that con- Costa del Sol and the Alicante coast attract tion. It also conflicts with the origins trast with the real islands by the Calvia more. On its own, however, and by com- of Santa Ponsa, derived - so some ar- coast, like the Islas Magrats, a marine re- parison with single municipalities, Calvia guments have it - from Celtic to refer serve since 2004, a place of high ecological beats them all. The place that Calvia has in to wetland with an abundance of value with a diversity of natural habitats the development of Spanish tourism since poplar trees (other theories do of and wildlife. Visible from the shore, the is- the 1960s brings with it considerable chal- course exist). lands can nonetheless seem to occupy their lenges.This is a reason why there is now an Santa Ponsa, for all that we know own world, just as the mountains do. But alliance of tourism sun-and-beach munici- of it today, arguably holds the most they are part of what unites the resort de- palities, which consists of other historic important place in Calvia’s back velopments and nature - Calvia. places in this development, such as Beni- story. The migration of peoples, The resorts have their individual identi- dorm, Lloret de Mar andTorremolinos.One most likely from the northeast of ties and images. Magalluf is undergoing a of the challenges is the diversification of the Iberian Peninsula and southern process of image repositioning, yet for all the tourism offer. Sun and beach are natu- France, gave rise to the prehistoric its transformation it retains its place in the ral strengths for Calvia, but there are far Talayotic culture from the end of hearts of at least two generations of British more strengths waiting to be promoted and the second millennium BC. In holidaymakers. Portals has its marina, one to be explored by the visitors who flock to Santa Ponsa is the Puig de sa Mo- that has enjoyed the patronage of the Span- the municipality. And this exploration risca, a hill which is an archaeologi- ish Royal Family, who can still be seen on knows no seasonal confinement. The sun cal park with various excavation occasion at a waterside restaurant. Illetes and the beach are there all year, but so is the sites and a talayot structure that and its neighbour Cas Català were once nature, the heritage, the gastronomy, the was some nine metres in diame- homes to the likes of Errol Flynn. Santa culture, the sport. ter. Ponsa (or Santa Ponça to give its Catalan In the general area of the hill there name) was where Joe Walsh introduced the Santa Ponsa and Good King James is other evidence of this ancient society, Irish to the Mediterranean holiday. Where did Calvia come from, as in how such as in Son Ferrer, which forms part of They all have their stories and we identify did it come to be known as Calvia? There the archaeological park. with them. As a consequence, Calvia can are conflicting theories, which isn’t un- More than 2,000 years after the founding seem almost anonymous, a municipality common in debates surrounding the ori- of theTalayotic culture came an event that with a registered population of just under gins of Majorca’s place names. One theory has shaped eight centuries of Majorcan cul- 50,000 but with a transient population in is that it comes from the Latin “Covianus” ture and society. In September 1229, Ara- summer of vastly greater numbers. Calvia, in reference to caves. Another is “Calvus” gonese-Catalan forces under King Jaume I SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 7

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - MORE THAN SAND AND SEA

tana and offers an intro- duction to some flora, such as “hypericum balearicum”, known also Calvia as “estepa joana” and in English as St. John’s Wort. The Galatzó finca is vast. It is more than 1,400 hec- on tares in size and covers al- most ten per cent of the entire municipality of Calvia. It was bought by film the town hall in 2006 and is preserved as a tradi- tional mountain estate. On the finca, among other things, there is a “tafona” for the produc- tion of olive oil plus lime kilns, charcoal ov- of Aragon (James the First) entered ens and old “roter” the bay of Santa Ponsa. They disem- dry-stone huts. barked in what we now think of as a The finca also plays resort. Some three months later the a role in one of the campaign of Jaume I reached its cul- most famous of mination.On New Year’s Eve the king Majorcan legends - entered Madina Mayurqa, i.e. Palma, that of “Comte ALVIA town hall has promoted the and more than three centuries of Mus- Mal”, an evil noble municipality through highlighting lo- lim occupation was to come to an end. who was popular- cations for films. One of the most suc- Catalan Christianity took over, and it ised in two novels cessful and famous film to be associ- had arrived in Santa Ponsa. in the nineteenth C ated with the municipality was “Evil Under The One of the grand “possessions” or es- century but whose Sun” with Peter Ustinov as Agatha Christie’s tates of that invasion force was Santa deeds went back to Poirot. The location was Cala d’en Monjo, some Ponsa, which had in fact existed be- earlier times. three kilometres from Paguera, a quiet and tiny foretheconquest,andthisestateand He supposedly rocky cove. its coast had been of significance to rode a green horse A more recent film was “The Damned United”, the Muslims. The “Kitab Tarih Ma- on the Galatzó in which Michael Sheen as Brian Clough and yurqa” is an Arabic chronicle of those finca, even though Timothy Spall as Peter Taylor had their falling- times and in particular of the con- he was dead. There out on the pier in Santa Ponsa. Cloughie was quest. Santa Ponsa, according to this, ● Calvia village to Galilea. Two is also an ongoing exhibition which also filmed reading a newspaper on the beach in was a port, while the hill, the Puig de hours that highlight shows the lives and labours of people Palmanova. Locations in Magalluf were used for sa Morisca, acted as a means of de- viewsofthecoastandof who lived and worked on the Galatzó “The Inbetweeners Movie”, though it was actu- fence. the Esclop and Galatzó finca in the second half of the last cen- ally set in Crete. Filming took place in March a Archaeological remains appear to hills and provide evi- tury. few years ago, and some technological enhance- show that it was here where one of dence of old cisterns and ment would have been needed, as the weather the first major battles between charcoal ovens. ● Dry-stone route.The was stubbornly rather grey for a couple of days. Jaume’s men and the Muslim troops longest of the hikes, it “Trampa bajo el sol” was a French film (“Train took place.The king himself was to re- ● Mola de s’Esclop.A four-hour route takes some six hours d’Enfer”) made in 1965 that took in different lo- fer to the hill. “There was a hill, near that leaves from the Ga- from Es Capdellà to Es- cations, as did a 1984 comedy “El último pen- to the sea,” he observed. Five hundred latzó finca or Casas de tellencs, and features alty”. The director of this film was Martin Gar- men would climb that hill. It had to be Galatzó and heads to the some of the sites and rido from Palma, who was the first commercial taken or the whole conquest venture Mola de s’Esclop hill, sights mentioned above, cinema director in Majorca and the Balearics. might have failed. There is now a hik- which is over 900 me- such as the Galatzó finca And then there was “The Magus”. Directed by ing route; it’s known as the battle tres high. This is a walk and the Mola de s’Esclop. Among ar- Guy Green, it was based on the John Fowles route. Of one hour’s duration, it isn’t that gives amazing chaeological remains is the Bronze novel of the same name. It starred Michael a particularly difficult walk in order to views of the Tramun- Age naviform site of Ses Sínies. Caine, Anthony Quinn and Candice Bergen and take in the Puig de sa Morisca and ob- was released in 1968. The location that featured serve its Talayotic and Muslim re- was Playa Portals Vells II, which is now known mains and lime kilns and charcoal ov- as Playa del Mago, because the cove came to be ens. From the top of the hill, you can so strongly associated with the film. Its fame be like King Jaume, as from there he lives on in Calvia, but the film itself was some- could take in vistas of Calvia. He had thing of a box-office disaster. Caine said of it far from peaceful objectives. For those that it was one of the worst films he was ever of us today it provides the opportunity involved with as no one had a clue what it was to soak in the tranquil, natural views all about. of Calvia. And Calvia has also cropped up on the televi- sion. In 1974, the ladies of “Coronation Street” The Galatzó finca and hiking won a holiday to Majorca. Their stay was at a ho- routes tel in Palmanova. Those episodes were notable ● Paguera to Cap Andritxol. A for the fact that even Mavis Riley found a holi- twoandahalfhour day romance. walk that takes in a Errol Flynn never actually made a film in Ma- forest route that jorca, he just drank it. His drinking was indeed ends at the Torre the stuff of legend. The director of the Bon Sol de CapAndritxol, Hotel in Illetes can remember Flynn as being a oneofthesix- very nice man who always had a drink in his teenth century hand. Flynn had a villa in Cas Català, which was towers that were built when demolished in 1989. There is a plaque in his Majorca was subjected to regular har- honour in Illetes. assment and incursions by Ottoman pirates. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 8 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - DEVELOPMENT Cas Català Hotel Calvia is meeting the challenge of

Left: Cas Català Hotel, which opened in 1905. Below: Hotel Maricel in 1950. RENEWAL Calvia town hall continues to pursue a model of Hotel Maricel quality. Further to enhancements already made to the urban environment, this month sees the start of work with an investment of more than four million euros.

BY ANDREW EDE the challenge of renewal - to hotels, to ajorca, it is justifiably often commercial centres, to infrastructure, said, is where modern sum- to the quality of life for the people of mer tourism started. The is- Calvia and for its visitors. M land has several key tourist Changes in Calvia first became most resort areas, all of which underwent de- evident in the plans for the transforma- velopment and expansion in the 1960s. tion of Magalluf, which were an- Calvia’s resorts were very much a part of nounced in 2011. Progress has thus been that development, though the story rapid, enabled by public and private-sec- dates back well before the 1960s and to tor cooperation and a determination for the first tourist establishment in Calvia - improvement, one with the aspiration the Cas Català Hotel, which opened in of quality of the highest order. 1905. Calvia town hall continues to pursue a b Calvia’s resorts were very much a part of In the 1920s there were further signs model of quality. Further to enhance- of a burgeoning tourism industry. Some that development, though the story dates chalets and hotels appeared in coastal back well before the 1960s and to the first areas such as Paguera. The Malgrats Ho- Changes in Calvia first tel opened in Paguera in 1932, and areas became most evident tourist establishment in Calvia - the Cas of Calvia were at that time part of a movement in Majorca to create garden in the plans for the Català Hotel, which opened in 1905. city-style developments by the coast. The original one was Ciudad Jardín in transformation of Palma. There were to be others in the likes of Alcudia and Son Baulo in the Magalluf, which were The Malgrats Hotel north of the island. In Calvia, this announced in 2011. movement gave rise to Palmanova-Son Caliu, to Portals Nous, to Cas Català-Il- letes, to Atalaia-Paguera, and to Santa ments already made to the urban envi- Ponsa. ronment, this month sees the start of In the late 1940s and into the 1950s work with an investment of more than came the Maricel Hotel, which replaced four million euros. Underpinning this the Cas Català Hotel, the Bendinat Ho- work is a philosophy to provide a gen- tel and the Roc de Illetes Hotel. Also in tler urban atmosphere through an em- that decade, significant decisions were phasis on pedestrianisation, more green taken for a process of urban develop- areas, more parks, more places for chil- ment that was to shape the next fifty- dren to play. plus years. It was those decisions which But the town hall’s plans also include a produced the resorts as we know them. commitment to people’s standards of The garden-city projects were en- living and so provision for more social hanced, and in 1959 arguably the most housing. An “eco neighbourhood” of significant project of all was started - 800 properties is to be created near Son Magalluf. Bugadelles in Santa Ponsa, while there is As a consequence of all the develop- also a scheme for housing in Magalluf by ment that started more than two gen- Sa Marina. erations ago, the resorts have acquired a The Hotel Magrats in Paguera which opened in1932. maturity. But maturity brings with it CONTINUEDONPAGE10 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 9 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 10 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL

● CALVIÀ CALVIA - DEVELOPMENT

The finca of Galatzo in Calvia.

CONTINUEDFROMPAGE8 b Sebastián Darder,the president of the hectares in the municipality will become parkland. In addition to Magalluf, these In Magalluf one can see how this phi- Palmanova-Magalluf hoteliers parks will appear in Illetes, in Son Ferrer, losophy will pan out. A remodelling of in Santa Ponsa and in Paguera. the resort will open it out more to the association, described it as an exciting Work on a different type of project - one sea. The master plan envisages the redes- for Santa Ponsa - is due to start shortly. ign of certain streets, the recovery of land project which will mean that over the This is for the seafront walk on the north and also a very necessary practical ele- side of the bay. It will be made from eco- ment - new car parking areas. next few years Magalluf will become a logical wood, designed to withstand the A specific project involves opening up type of deterioration that can inevitably the calle Punta Ballena and connecting it “paradise. occur right by the coast. Small squares to the sea front. It centres on the Jack Sas- and mirador viewing-points are to be dot- soon square, which is where the old At- where this project really stands out is 46 hectares. This is just one of what will ted along its length. There will be fea- lantic Hotel once stood. The project for through the idea for a public park of some be a series of new parks. In all, over 95 tures of natural rock and native vegeta- “humanising” this area includes the re- tion, while the use of low-consumption moval of architectural barriers, which is a lighting will reduce light pollution. commitment the town hall has else- The work will cost almost half a million where in the municipality for enabling euros, and it is indicative of a coherence greater freedom of movement for those of planning that will increasingly find with reduced mobility. the coastal resorts recapturing aspects of When it was presented, the master plan their natural environment, a revival per- was received enthusiastically. For exam- haps of a long-ago concept of the garden ple, Sebastián Darder, the president of city. the Palmanova-Magalluf hoteliers asso- The maturity of the resorts has de- ciation, described it as an exciting project manded a rethink. It is being realised and which will mean that over the next few will be realised in a variety of ways: the years Magalluf will become a “paradise”. massive commitment to the qualitative Darder and others have highlighted the improvements of accommodation; the extent to which this is a highly ambitious incentives for other businesses to make project. And one of the most ambitious their own commitments; and a softening aspects involves the Sa Marina wetland of the environment and atmosphere of area. The remains of Aquapark and the the resorts. karting will go so that these areas once Maturity’s challenge is that of renewal, more form part of the wetland, and Above: The first hotels in Magalluf. Below: Hotels in Magalluf today. and Calvia is meeting that challenge. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 11 The saintly years of Majorca

Andrew Ede outlines the Saintly part of Majorca

t isn’t obligatory that a fiesta or fair requires the celebration of a saint, but it certainly helps. All villages b All villages and towns in Majorca have their I and towns in Majorca have their pa- tron saints, who are typically the excuse patron saints, who are typically the excuse for for the annual revelries. But being a pa- tron isn’t mandatory either. There are the annual revelries. some saints whose celebrations are far from confined to municipal borders. The fiestas of Saint Sebastian are held in January where demons go crazy! WHAT’SON CONTINUED ON FOLLOWING PAGE

Have a break on the beautiful We are open Sis Pins seafront all year

10% off for all bookings made for stays between 1st November 2017 until 20th April 2018

Bookings can be made online at www.hotelsispins.com when you use code “DAILYB”

Puerto Pollensa · Majorca - &NBJMSFTFSWBUJPOT!IPUFMTJTQJOTDPNr8FCTJUFXXXIPUFMTJTQJOTDPNr5FM MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 12 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL WHATS’ON - THE SAINTLYPART OF MAJORCA

The Cossier folk dancers for the Sant Bartomeu fiestas in Montuiri.

Llucmajor honours Santa Candida with the Cavallets Cotoners.

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE Agustí January - and this timing is linked to an- tacular of demons’ shows. The Esclat- cient rituals for a rebirth from winter. abutzes demons are among the best there Abdón ● Sant Agustí was Saint Augustine of Antoni apparently lived to the grand old is. Hippo. He was a seriously important fig- age of 105, having spent a good part of his In the small town of Montuiri, there is a ● If one compiles an alphabetical list of ure in the development of Christian phi- life in caves in Egypt dealing with halluci- fire show that years ago used to be com- the saintly contenders for a good old party, losophy. The bishop of Hippo Regius in nations of the devil. Antoni was not alone mon but is now more or less unique to the first on the roll call is a saint who what is now Annaba in Algeria, he is sup- among saints in having faced potential cri- Montuiri. This is the “rodelles”, spinning mostly no one has ever heard of. He is Sant posed to have performed something of a ses of faith posed by demonic forces, but wheels which emit fire and bangs. And Abdón, one of twins with the equally miracle in healing a man during the siege his legend surpasses mostly all others. Montuiri is one of a few places in Majorca saintly Senén. They both supposedly came of Hippo by the Vandals in 430. Moreover, where there is a group of Cossier folk to an unfortunate end in 254 in Rome. when the Vandals eventually burned the remains the dancers, who have some similarity to Mor- One says supposedly as even the church city, his cathedral and library were left un- ris Dancers and date back to at least the questions whether they actually existed. touched. In keeping with his high relig- epicentre for Sant first half of the sixteenth century. Anyway, for their Christian sins they ious status, in August the town of Antoni, but the were taken to the arena where they were manages to stage more night parties dur- Candida confronted by four lions and three bears. ing its fiestas for him than anywhere else celebration is cast The animals, rather than attacking them, or for any other saint. ● is the only place which settled down at their feet. The Emperor wide. honours Santa Candida in a major way. Valerian (allegedly) considered this to be Antoni She is the town’s co-patron along with an act of dark magic, and he ordered them Crucially for Majorca, his worship was im- Sant Miquel. Martyred at the time of the to be slain on the spot. Inca in ● To anyone in Majorca Sant Antoni ported by the Catalans in mediaeval Emperor Diocletian (she was thrown into the final week or so of July Abat needs absolutely times, and the centre of this worship was a dry well and buried alive), her relics were is the place and time for no introduc- Sa Pobla. If there is anywhere that can apparently brought to Llucmajor in 1717 Abdón and Senén. tion. He claim to have originated the Majorca fi- and donated to the parish of Sant Miquel. is esta, then it is Sa Pobla because of Sant An- One of the stand-out features of her fies- toni. And just as important was the role of tas is the appearance of the Cavallets Co- demons. Their popularisation can really be toners, a folk dance group of children who traced back to fourteenth century Sa Po- wear horse figures around their waists. bla. These cavallets are believed to be the old- Nowadays, the fiestas are occasions for est in Majorca (1458), though Palma may all manner of demonic activity. Demon have had cavallet dancers in the same fire-run (correfoc) spectaculars are staged year. Cotoners refers to the Barcelona in various towns and villages. Sa Pobla re- Guild of Cottonmakers, which took own- mains the epicentre for Sant Antoni, but ership of that city’s cavallets in 1437. the celebration is cast wide - from Andratx in the southwest across to and Catalina Thomàs in the east. If there aren’t fire- some- runs, then there are most certainly fires. A ● Until recently Catalina Thomàs was times re- great deal is made of the bonfire judging, Majorca’s only homegrown saint (Juniper ferred to as and as the fires start to die down, they are Serra is now the second). Born in Vall- The demons Majorca’s used for barbecues. demossa in 1531, her piety was profound. are a key saint, when he The eve of Sant Antoni (16 January) is She had visions and ecstasies that could figure in Sant isn’t (Our Lady of one of the great nights in the Majorcan last for 24 hours or more. She died in 1574, Antoni fies- Lluc holds that ti- calendar, and on the day itself there are was beatified in 1792 and canonised in tas in Sa tle). There are few blessings of animals, sometimes by an im- 1930 by Pope Pius XI. She is referred to as Pobla. places which age of Sant Antoni, virtually everywhere. La Beata, The Blessed, and in terms of fies- don’t celebrate tas, she is most known for those of Vall- him in some Bartomeu demossa in late July and of Santa Mar- form or an- galida in early September. The principal other, and his fi- ● Bartholomew the Apostle met a thor- act in is the procession of the estas are one of oughly grisly end and was to many years “triumphal carriage” with Catalina as a the genuine later lend his name to the massacre of Hu- child (always a six-year-old girl) - La highlights of guenots that started in Paris on 23 August, Beateta - and accompanying angels. It is the entire the eve of his fiesta, in 1572. He has also one of the most charming of all fiesta oc- year. They lent his name to various parish churches, casions. crop up early such as Soller’s. It is in this town where -in mid- there is typically one of the most spec- CONTINUEDONPAGE14 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 13 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 14 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL WHATS’ON - THE SAINTLYPART OF MAJORCA

CONTINUEDFROMPAGE12 Jaume The procession of La Beata in Santa Margalida. In Santa Margalida it is La Beata as a ● Saint James the Apostle, Santiago, is young woman. The procession, described Spain’s national saint. As might be ex- as Majorca’s most representative, is based pected, he’s pretty big news when it on folk legend and a song about the saint comes to his feast day in July. Alcudia, Al- and the devil. At one time in the nine- gaida, , Calvia, Manacor, Sa Po- teenth century, the Bishop of Majorca bla and Santanyi are where his celebra- sought to modify it by removing the pres- tions mainly take place. In the case of Al- ence of demons. He considered it to be an cudia, the parish of Sant Jaume de Guiny- affront to God. The people of the town pretty much ig- The Mother of God, the nored the bishop. The procession, replete with demons smashing ceramic jars (an al- Virgin Mary, has more lusion to the folk legend), is unique to Santa Margalida. fiestas than any mere saint. Domingo ● Saint Dominic was the founder of the ent was established in 1248; Guinyent be- Dominican Order. As such, he is acknowl- ing an estate. This became known as Sant edged widely in Majorca, but only the vil- Jaume de Alcudia, after the Muslim name lage of has him as its for the village, and Sant Jaume was even- patron saint fiestas in August. Domingo is tually dropped. Also in Alcudia, there is a the eve of 24 June is one of the grand crow, Corb de Sant Nofre, and one of two patrons in Lloret, where one of separate fiesta every three years on 26 nights of the year. It is something of a Pelós. This character, John the Hairy, is its claims to fame is having a common in July, the day after Jaume. This is Sant summer version of Antoni in January. based on John the Baptist, but there’s a fair which the geographical centre of Majorca Crist, which recalls a miracle of the six- Both can be referred to as the Night of Fire. smattering of the pagan tossed into the is reckoned to be (there are other claim- teenth century when an image of Christ In Palma there is a massive demons’ spec- mix. There are other Hairy Johns. In Pol- ants). brought about the end of famine and tacular, and Palma is one place where peo- lensa he comes out on the Sunday after The other patron is the Virgin of Lloret, drought. Sant Crist will next be celebrated ple typically go to the beaches, light can- Corpus Christi, while the two others in which is how the village got its name. It in 2019. dles or night lights and cleanse themselves Sant Llorenç and Felanitx also appear on used to be Manresa, but public will de- in the sea. It’s a ritual involving, for in- 24 June. The Sant Llorenç Hairy John, creed otherwise on account of the found- stance, fertility. The riskiest aspect of all oddly enough, isn’t hairy. The Felanitx one ing of a convent devoted to Our Lady of Joan this is jumping over a fire. is and is arguably the most famous; his Loreto from the house of the Holy Family ● Sant Joan Baptista and Sant Joan De- In the village of Sant Joan, things get dis- dance has been declared a fiesta in the cul- at the Basilica della Santa Casa in Loreto, gollat are two fiestas for John the Baptist. tinctly weird on 24 June, which is when tural interest of Majorca. Italy. The first coincides with midsummer, and demons are around along with the great Sant Joan Degollat is the death of John

MOVING STORAGE PACKING SHIPPING * REGULAR UK SERVICE SINCE 1973 * ALL EUROPEAN DESTINATIONS SERVED · WORLDWIDE SHIPPING DOOR TO DOOR · FREE STORAGE AVAILABLE

SINCE 1871

LOCAL MOVING SERVICE CONTAINER STORAGE FROM 9€ PER WEEK

FOR FREE ESTIMATE PHONE 971 707 631 U.K. Tel. 0044 1202 576514 - Fax No. 0044 1202 574011 E-mail: [email protected] · www.whiteandcompany.co.uk

Professional Company Personal Service SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 15 WHATS’ON - THE SAINTLYPART OF MAJORCA the Baptist (degollat - decapitated). It Miquel, 29 September) and end by the location for this. These fiestas are in mid- Sant Pere Church, but the statue stub- doesn’t attract anything like the same fi- feast of Saint Luke. Inca could then have July and are soon followed by the Mare de bornly kept on disappearing and returning esta attention as the fiesta for his birth, theirs. Which is how it has been ever Déu dels Àngels. And that means Moors to the place it was found. And this spot but where it does loom large is, once more, since. The Inca weekend fairs (three of and Christians. was, in the mid-thirteenth century, where the village of Sant Joan. And again, they them) are grander occasions than Llucma- The climax to Pollensa’s La Patrona fies- Lluc Monastery was built. This is now the know a thing or two there about being jor’s, and the grandest - the daddy of all tas is the re-enactment of the 1550 battle most holy site in Majorca. Our Lady of Lluc odd. The “condemna” and “rabiosa” on the Majorca’s fairs - is Dijous Bo (Good Thurs- between Moors and Christians. It is held became the island’s patron and at four eve of 29 August are essentially all to do day), held each year on the third Thursday on 2 August in honour of Our Lady of the o’clock on the morning of the Sunday clos- with demons persecuting some unfortu- in November. Angels, whose help was requested by the est to 12 September, a mass pilgrimage nates. It’s now taken very lightheartedly captain of Pollensa, Joan Mas, when con- from Inca to Lluc begins. with the demons more an object of fun Mare de Déu fronted by the Ottoman pirates led by Dra- than persecutors. gut. This battle is one of the greatest of all CONTINUED ON FOLLOWING PAGE ●The Mother of God, the Virgin Mary, fiesta events, rivalled only by Soller’s own Lluc has more fiestas than any mere saint. Moors and Christians in May. There are three national holidays devoted The Virgin Mary’s birthday is 8 Septem- ● Luke the Apostle doesn’t have any no- to her - the Immaculate Conception (8 De- ber, which means more fiestas, and then table fiestas. But he holds a pivotal role in cember), the Assumption (15 August) and we come to 12 September, the day having determined how autumn fairs Our Lady of the Pillar on 12 October, of Our Lady of Lluc. The leg- came to be scheduled, specifically the fairs which doubles as Spain’s National Day. As- end involves the shepherd of Inca and Llucmajor. It should be ex- sumption, generally referred to as Mare de boy Lluc, who found a plained that neither Llucmajor nor Lluc, as Déu d’Agost, is the only one of these when small statue of the Vir- in the monastery, are named after him. there are major fiestas. In a sense they are gin, the Black Ma- The word is derived from Latin to mean a the climax to the summer, and nowhere donna (or “More- sacred forest, though just to complicate does it in more climactic fashion than Can neta”). He took it to matters there is the crucial story of a shep- Picafort. Its fireworks display is generally the priest at the herd boy, Lluc, who was instrumental in regarded as one of the most spectacular, the founding of Lluc Monastery. and also on 15 August is the famous duck Anyway, back to the apostle, whose date swim, which might be described as infa- is 18 October, and a long-ago spat between mous because of those who defied a 2007 Inca and Llucmajor over the holding of ban on the use of real ducks. Only plastic fairs. Llucmajor, which hadn’t been ones are now caught. granted the privilege to have fairs, took The Virgen del Carmen, Our Lady of Car- the matter to court in the sixteenth cen- mel, is the patron of the Carmelite Order tury. Eventually, the Holy Roman Em- and also of the Spanish Navy. Her mari- peror came down on Llucmajor’s side. The time association helps to explain why her scheduling of the fairs (and there are four image is carried to a boat which sets off of them) would start on Michaelmas (Sant with whole flotillas. Puerto Pollensa is one The Virgen del Carmen is carried to a boat which sets off with whole flotillas.

Holiday villas in Majorca · Availability for high season weeks · Self catering villas in Majorca Visit our website or phone our office for a quote www.rentalspollensa.com - 971 866 150 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 16 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL WHATS’ON - THE SAINTLYPART OF MAJORCA

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE WHEN ARE THEY? Pere ● Sant Abdón. Celebrated in Inca. Main ● Saint Peter the Fisherman is naturally date: 30 July. going to be important to an island people ● Sant Agustí. Celebrated in Felanitx and and to their fishing industry, though he S’Arraco. Main date: 28 August. doesn’t only feature in fiestas by the ● Sant Antoni Abat. Celebrated every- coast. There are no beaches in either where. Main dates: 16 and 17 January. Buger or , but there most defi- ● Sant Bartomeu. Celebrated in Cap- nitely are in Colonia Sant Pere, Puerto Al- depera, , Montuiri, , Soller, cudia, Puerto Pollensa and Puerto Soller. Valldemossa. Main date: 24 August. Of these, the Alcudia and Soller fiestas are ● Santa Candida. Celebrated in Llucmajor. the most lavish, with demons and fire- Main date: 13 August. works to the fore and flotillas with the ● Santa Catalina Thomàs (La Beata). Cele- image of the saint in Alcudia and Colonia. brated in Valldemossa. Main date: 28 July. In In Colonia Sant Pere, Puerto Alcudia and . Main date: closest Puerto Soller there are night parties for Sunday to 28 July. In Santa Margalida. Main these fiestas at the end of June. Fiestas of Sant Roc in with the giant ensaimada. date: first Sunday in September. There is also a La Beateta carriage procession in Roc enteenth century. The fiestas in Porreres aside and give centre stage to Saint Palma on the third Saturday of October. for his feast day of 16 August are among Sebastian. One of the martyrs to have ● Sant Domingo. Celebrated in Lloret de ● He will be an obscure saint to many the most action-packed of any. They start got on the wrong side of the Emperor Vistalegre. Main date: 6 August. but not in Majorca. Roc, alternatively with the firing of rockets at eleven in the Diocletian, Sebastian’s association ● Sant Jaume. Celebrated (mainly) in Alcu- Roch, Rocco or even Rock, is generally be- morning and last until around six the with Palma predated the miracle that dia, , Binissalem, Calvia, Manacor, lieved to be fictitious. He was supposedly next morning when there is a sub-fiesta, a bone of his was to produce in 1523. Santanyi. Main date: 25 July. around in the fourteenth century, but the Sant Roquet, and the consuming of a gi- His feast day of 20 January was cer- ● Sant Joan Baptista. Celebrated all over most likely explanation for him is that he ant ensaimada. Other places where he is tainly being celebrated at the Cathe- the island, but key fiestas are in Deya, Man- was made up and based on a much earlier celebrated would probably have had the dral in the previous century. But it cor de la Vall, Muro, Sant Joan, Son Servera. saint, Racus. Still, this hasn’t prevented odd plague at some point, though it’s not was to be the arrival of the bone, Main date: 24 June. from assuming a significant role in the clear whether Roc spun any miracles else- brought by archdeacon Manuel ● Sant Joan Degollat. Celebrated in Estel- August fiesta scene. where. Suriavisqui from San Juan de Colachi lencs, Sant Joan. Main date: 29 August. There is nowhere more devoted to Roc in Rhodes, that was to result in Se- ● Sant Lluc. Not particularly celebrated as than the village of Porreres. This is due to Sebastià bastian eventually becoming Palma’s such, but his feast day of 18 October deter- the fact that Roc, according to old parish patron saint. Palma had been saved mined the scheduling of the fairs in Llucma- documents, intervened in a plague that ● When it comes to miracles and the from the plague, and there was also jor and Inca. the village was enduring in the mid-sev- elimination of plague, Roc has to step the story of the intention to take the ● Mare de Déu - Virgen del Carmen. Cele- bone back to Rhodes. Every time that brated in Cala Bona, Cala Figuera (Santanyi), the archdeacon was about to set sail, Cala Ratjada, Porto Cristo, Portocolom, there would be a violent storm. It Puerto Andratx, Puerto Pollensa. Main date: was quite clearly a sign. The bone nearest Sunday to 16 July. stayed, and the sea was flat calm as ● Mare de Déu - Mare de Déu dels Àngels. the archdeacon waved goodbye. La Patrona celebrated in Pollensa. Main The fiestas for Sebastian in January date: 2 August. combine with those of Antoni in ● Mare de Déu - Mare de Déu d’Agost (As- making January one of the most re- sumption). Celebrated in Caimari, Cala d’Or, markable months of all in Majorca. In Campos, Can Picafort, Puigpunyent, the middle of winter, the island par- , S’Illot, . Main date: 15 ties like at no other time. Palma rocks August. to the music in numerous squares, ● Mare de Déu - Mare de Déu de Setembre demons go crazy, and the fiestas spill (birth of the Virgin Mary). Celebrated in over into other parts of the island, , , , , meaning more bonfires everywhere. . Main date: 8 September. Summer is fiesta time in Majorca, but ● Mare de Déu - Our Lady of Lluc. Cele- so also and most definitely is winter. brated in Lluc. Date: 12 September. ● Sant Pere. Celebrated in Colonia Sant Pere, Puerto Alcudia, Puerto Pollensa, Puerto Soller. Main date: 29 June. ● Sant Roc. Celebrated in Alaro, Cala Rat- jada, Porreres, Puigpunyent, S’Alqueria Blanca, Sineu. Main date: 16 August. ● Sant Sebastià. Celebrated in Palma. Main date: 20 January.

The above isn’t by any means an exhaustive list. One might also mention the likes of Sant Feliu (Felix) in Llubi, 1 August; Sant Ju- lià (Julian) in Campos, 9 January, and a time when the town’s Cossier dancers appear; Sant Juniper Serra (Petra), Majorca’s second homegrown saint, who was canonised in Awnings Sunblinds Internal Blinds 2015, 23 September; Sant Llorenç (Law- r r rence) in Sant Llorenç and Selva, 10 August PVC & Aluminium Windows and Doors and the observation of the “tears of Sant Majorcan Shutters r Blackout Blinds Lawrence”, Perseid meteor shower; and even Santa Ponça. There never was a saint called Visit our showroom in Pasaje 19 de Marzo, 10 & 11, Ponça (or Ponsa). Santa Ponsa has no relig- Poligono Son Bugadellas, Santa Ponsa Sant Sebastian fiestas have music in ious connotation, but its fiestas, Rei en numerous squares, demons go 5FMr&NBJMJOGP!UJQUPQUPMEPTDPN Jaume in September, are a recognition of crazy and bonfires and BBQ’s galore. where Catalan culture in Majorca started. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 17 A HOLIDAY SUCCESS STORY

TheThe love love affairaffair with with MajorcaMajorca continuescontinues toto blossom blossom

ET2 is the buzz thing must be done to by dreds of people word in Majorca make the holiday season JASON locally. It is a MOORE when it comes to longer so that tourists can tremendous J the British travel in- enjoy a Majorca of all sea- achievement. I dustry. Not only do they sons. And all of us who attended one of bring a record number of live on Majorca know that their employ- tourists to the island dur- thereismoretothisisland ment work- ing the summer months than just the sun and the shops in Palma they are working long and season. And this is where weekend getaway destina- last month as they started hard to increase the num- Jet2 comes in, helping to tion. The tremendous ex- to plan for next season. It ber of low season holiday- promote the island during pansion of Jet2 over recent is was incredibly well at- makers. Now all this is the quieter times of the years has certainly bene- tended. Jet2 is the buzz- music to the ears of the lo- year and also helping the fited Majorca. Not only word again! It is a success cal authorities. The view Palma city council to put does it bring tourists to the story which continues to from Majorca is every- the capital on the map as a island it also employs hun- blossom! Employment workshop in Palma. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 18 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL JET2- AWARDS

Jet2 recent awards ● In 2016: Jet2holidays recent awards ● Glasgow Airport Awards - ● In 2016: Airline of the Year ● Advantage Consortia ● GRAFTAS - Best Airline Awards - Best Trade Team ● Group Leisure Awards - ● GRAFTAS - Best Tour Op- Best Airline erator ● Skytrax -UK’sMost ● Independent Travel Ex- Loved Airline perts - Business Partner of ● SPAA Annual Awards - the Year Best Holiday Airline ● NI Travel Awards - Best ● Travel Weekly Globe Package Tour Operator; Awards - Best Short Haul Best Internet Booking Sys- Airline. tem; Best Sales Support to ● Trip Advisor - UK Top Air- the Northern Ireland line Travel Trade ● Which? - Top ranked UK ● SPAA Annual Awards - airline and the only UK air- Best Overall Operator; Best line to be awarded with European Short Break Pro- the Which? “Recom- vider; Best Mainstream b The Bulletin works mended Provider” status Short Haul Tour Operator in its airline survey ● Travel Weekly Globe closely with Jet2 whether Awards - Best Short Haul ● In 2017: Operator welcoming the first flights OAG - Most Punctual UK of the season or helping Airline In 2017: ● NI Travel Awards - Best Inter- Trip Advisor - Best Airline ● Advantage Travel Part- net Booking System with its employment (UK); Best Low Cost Airline nership - Leisure Sales ● Travel Bulletin Star Awards - (Europe). Team of the Year Best Short Haul Operator workshops. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 19 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 20 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL JET2 - INTERVIEW “Majorca is a firm favourite holidaymakers of all types b Interview with Steve Heapy CEO, Jet2.com and Jet2holidays.

ET2 is a company which is flying confidence we have in Majorca. With fan- We started operating to Majorca in 2003 Q.— Apart from having an enormous high. Bulletin editor Jason Moore tastic weather alongside a range of attrac- and had less than 60,000 seats on sale that summer programme you are also work- speaks to the Chief Executive of tions and resorts that appeal to all types of summer. We have expanded our pro- ing on low season tourism to the island. the company, Steve Heapy, about holidaymakers, Majorca is the perfect pack- gramme to Majorca every subsequent year, Do you think that Majorca can be a good J age holiday destination for Britons.That ap- to the point where next summer we have winter holiday destination? their plans for the future. peal shows no sign of slowing down, which over one million seats, over 300 hotels, and A. — Majorca is the perfect winter destina- Question— Could you outline how is why we are growing our programme in over 250 villas on sale. tion thanks to its warm weather and the summer 2018 is looking, especially for Summer 18. Such continuous success and growth is wide variety of things to do and see such as Majorca? only possible if the demand is there. We lis- cycling, hiking, gastronomy and taking in Answer — Summer 18 will see us operate Q.— What part has Majorca played in ten to our customers all of the time and we the fantastic Palma City. In previous years, our biggest ever flights and holidays pro- the rapid expansion of Jet2 over the last are always reviewing our programme so Britons might have chosen to travel to other gramme with over 10.5 million seats on sale decade? that we can take them to the places they destinations for some winter sunshine, but to 57 destinations from across our nine UK A. — I cannot underestimate what an im- want to be. Majorca is clearly where holi- the fact we are flying to Majorca from all bases. This programme includes 46 new portant destination Majorca has been, daymakers want to be when you look at our nine of our UK bases this winter, and have summer routes and thousands of 2-5 star and continues to be, forJet2.com and growth story on the island. grown winter capacity by more than 60%, hotels on sale. Jet2holidays. shows that more people are realising what This growth applies to Majorca too. For a great winter hotspot Ma- the first time in our history, we have over jorca is. one million summer seats on sale to and from Majorca, which is a 13% capacity in- crease. To grow an already popular destination by such an amount shows the

“Majorca is the perfect winter destination thanks to its warm weather and the wide variety of things to do and see such as cycling, hiking, gastronomy and taking in the fantastic Palma City....” SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 21 JET2 -INTERVIEW

travelling as a group. A recent report pub- that they have a lovely holiday whilst in A. — There has been a lot written and said lished by PostOfficeTravel Money showed Majorca. about the industry in recent times, but the that Majorca offers holidaymakers great growth of Jet2.com and Jet2holidays shows value when it comes to staples such as Q.—Do you think that Jet2 offers some- what can be achieved through an unswerv- e with meals and drinks, and that clearly resonates thing for everyone? ing focus on delivering the very best serv- with Brits. A. —Majorca is a firm favourite with holi- ice for customers so that they enjoy a lovely daymakers of all types, andJet2holidayshas holiday time and time again. With a com- different products to suit each and every mitted team looking after our customers “British holidaymakers person. For example, young groups might on their ATOL protected package holidays, want to choose from our ‘On Tour’ pro- and unique touches such as our free resort love travelling to gramme, offering the best clubs, nightlife flight check-in service, we are looking s” and festivals, whereas families have a ahead to the future with confidence. Majorca and the love choice of over 300 hotels in Majorca affair that we have with through our Family Holidays range. We Q.—Majorca has enjoyed a love affair Q.—Price is key in the travel industry, this fantastic island is also have our Indulgent Escapes brand for with British tourists for more than 50 does Majorca offer value for money for those who want some 5-star luxury, and years....do you think this is going to con- your clients? here to stay.” through our brand new Jet2Villas proposi- tinue? A. — First of all, it is important to note the tion we have over 250 villas available in A. — Absolutely. Majorca is the perfect excellent value that Jet2holidays offers cus- Q.—You have recently launched a ma- Majorca, offering the freedom of a villa holiday destination for all types of holiday- tomers.As well as flights on our award-win- jor recruitment drive on the island, will holiday with all the added benefits of a maker.The island offers great value, fantas- ning airline, we wrap everything up in one your local workforce be increasing? package break, including free car hire. tic weather, white beaches, and an array of package with ATOL protection, free infant A.—Ahead of our biggest ever summer sea- things to do whether you’re into culture, places, 0% credit and debit card fees, indus- son we have over 130 job roles to fill and we Q.—Your flights from Stansted, are history, food, sport or nightlife. British holi- try leading 22kg baggage allowance and air- are looking for: Call Centre Customer Help- they proving to be popular? daymakers love travelling to Majorca and port transfers included, through a low £60 ers, Resort Representatives/Customer Both of our new bases, London Stansted theloveaffairthatwehavewiththisfan- per person deposit. We have just become Helpers, Passenger Service Agents (at and Birmingham, are proving to be ex- tastic island is here to stay. the UK’s second largest tour operator and PalmaAirport and In Resort),Airport tremely popular. Our great value package such successes do not happen by chance, Customer Helpers, Service Centre holidays and award-winning customer Q.—And finally if you had to go on holi- they happen because we look after our cus- Customer Helpers, Aircraft Dis- service is proving to be a huge hit with day anywhere, where would be it? tomers with VIP customer service and ini- patchers, Ramp Agents and Free holidaymakers from both bases, and we are A. — If you are not going to let me choose tiatives such as our free Resort Flight Resort Flight Check-In helpers. seeing significant growth as a result. For Majorca, then I’d say Majorca anyway. I Check-in which is available in over 20 ho- With jobs available in resort Summer 18, we will operate daily services have visited at least once a year for the past tels in Majorca. and at Palma Airport, we are to Majorca from London Stansted and Bir- 15 years and I love it as much today as when On top of that there is the great value that on the lookout for people mingham, which represents a significant I first holidayed. I have stayed all over the Majorca offers holidaymakers of all who are passionate about increase in capacity from our two newest the island: Alcudia, Santa Ponsa, Palma- types, whether they are a family, creating memories for bases. nova, Magalluf, Playa De Palma, Cala D’Or, couple or are our customers and Q.—What do you think the future holds Illetas and Palma City to name just a few ensuring for the British travel in- resorts, and I never failed to enjoy the most dustry? brilliant holiday. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 22 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL JET2 - ITS HISTORY

b In 2002, what was to prove to be a highly significant announcement was made. The Dart Group unveiled Jet2.com, a new low-cost airline. It opened for business on 11 December of that year; 12,000 seats were sold online in the first twenty-four hours.

JET2 How flowers bloomed and by Andrew created the UK’S SECOND Ede BIGGEST TOUR OPERATOR n 2002, what was to prove to be a highly significant announcement Jet2holidays became the UK’s second the afternoon of the second day of the was made. The Dart Group un- biggest tour operator, using nine bases show, there is the Battle of Flowers. I veiled Jet2.com, a new low-cost air- in the UK. Meanwhile, Jet2.com was Spectators can take part in judging col- line. It opened for business on 11 De- named best short haul airline at the ourful floats, which compete for the cember of that year; 12,000 seats were Globe Travel Awards for 2016 and pre- coveted “Prix d’honneur”. In 1971, Art sold online in the first twenty-four sented in January this year. Carpenter established Carpenter’s Air hours. The first flight was to be from Here were confirmations of a story of Services and Carpenter’s Transport Ltd Leeds Bradford to Amsterdam on 12 Feb- remarkable growth and achievement in to fly fragrant flowers from Guernsey, ruary 2003. Other routes quickly fol- the UK travel and tourism industry. Yet famous for the battle, to the UK and to lowed - Alicante, Amsterdam, Barcelona, they were a world away from how it all move them to wholesale markets. Malaga, Milan Bergamo, Nice and began, because to understand the emer- Four years later, Carpenter joined Palma. gence of Jet2.com and Jet2holidays, one forces with Guernsey exporters to create Jet2.com had well and truly arrived. By has to go back to the start of the 1970s Express Air Freight. Flowers were still March of 2004 it was flying its and to a very different transportation important, but freight and produce were 500,000th passenger. Six months later need to that of holidaymaking passen- now also being transported between the the one millionth passenger was cele- gers. Channel Islands and the UK. The cargo brated, with flights from Belfast and The Guernsey Battle of Flowers has aircraft operation was to be transferred Manchester about to be added. By 2016, been one of the main outdoor events in to a new business in 1979 - Express Air Jet2.com was flying more than 6.7 mil- Guernsey’s summer calendar for many Services, and in 1980 this business se- lion passengers a year and operating years. Run by the Northern Agricultural cured its first contract with Royal Mail over 40,000 flights to almost sixty desti- and Horticultural Society, the “battle” for the delivery of first-class mail be- nations. Along the way, in 2007 forms part of the annual North Show at tween Bournemouth, Bristol and Liver- Jet2holidays was launched. This year, the Sausmarez Park in August. During pool airports. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 23 JET2 - ITS HISTORY

In 2008, a passenger on a transatlantic ing 737-300QC “Quick Change” planes in flight to New York said of his destination 2001 that was to push the Dart Group into that it was “absolutely fantastic, a very a different direction. The Boeings could be exciting place”. This was the first transat- transformed from 148-passenger planes lantic flight by Jet2.com from Leeds Brad- into freight carriers in just thirty minutes. ford. The passenger was the chairman and Or vice versa. The planes were to inspire CEO of the Dart Group and CEO of the launch of Jet2.com. Jet2.com, Philip Meeson. In 2009, Steve Heapy joined the Dart His first job had been selling ice-cream Group from MyTravel as chief commer- for Mr Whippy. He became an RAF pilot cial operating officer for Jet2holidays. and was five times British aerobatic Now CEO for Jet2.com and Jet2holidays, champion. His first main venture into he has overseen the dramatic rise of Jet2 business was importing Citroen 2CVs as a tour operator. In Majorca we can tes- from Belgium and selling them from a tify to its presence. Jet2 receptions are to plot on the King’s Road. That eventually became the main BMW showroom and There is a close and before long grew into one of London’s big- flourishing relationship gest dealerships. with the Palma 365 Landmark moment Foundation, and just In 1983 came a landmark moment. He bought the Express companies, changing recently there was the the name to Channel Express. The follow- announcement of a new ing year, this business secured an over- campaign aimed at night parcels delivery contract with TNT. Handley Page Dart Herald aircraft that promoting the capital of were being used were to assume a further Majorca. significance a few years later. The Chan- nel Express Group was floated on the Un- be found in many hotels. The distinctive listed Securities Market in 1988, took on red t-shirts stand out. So many people more contracts with Royal Mail and UPS, now work for Jet2, recruited for their ma- acquired Benair Freight, an international turity, experience and understanding of freight management company, in 1990, the overriding premium placed on cus- Jet2 has expanded into Britain´s second biggest travel company. and then in 1991 came another change. tomer service. In 2013, Philip Meeson told The Channel Express Group became Dart the Majorca Daily Bulletin that“wehavea of Majorca and, by extension, the rest cates that Jet2holidays is licensed to Group plc, a name that honoured the great working environment and we want of the island in the low season. carry 2.94 million passengers over the Rolls-Royce Dart engines. to see that all our clients are happy”. Jet2.com is therefore a crucial player twelve months up to September 2018 Further expansion was to come through Experience we have at the Bulletin is pre- and partner for the Balearic govern- - 600,000 more passengers than in the the acquisition in 1994 of Fowler Welch, a cisely that, while we are very aware of the ment as it seeks to tackle tourism sea- previous twelve months. And many of temperature-controlled distribution com- determined efforts made by Jet2 to eat sonality and develop the islands as a these 600,000 more will be travelling pany. This asset meant daily deliveries to into the low season with special city great destination in the low months to Majorca. leading supermarkets. Meanwhile, the breaks based on Palma. There is a close and with so many alternative attrac- The Dart Group, Jet2.com, Jet2holidays aircraft were getting bigger. An Airbus and flourishing relationship with the tions to the typical sun and beach. share a story of outstanding business A300-B4 was converted into a freight Palma 365 Foundation, and just recently The growth shows absolutely no sign achievement and success. In Majorca plane. More “Eurofreighters” were to fol- there was the announcement of a new of slowing down. ATOL data published we’re pleased to be a part of that continu- low, but it was the purchase of two Boe- campaign aimed at promoting the capital by the Civil Aviation Authority indi- ing success. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 24 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 25 GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD

b When Toni Campaner offered the use of his hot plate grill for the modest charge of €3 a time it was a revolutionary idea that won immediate acceptance.

Top: Fresh fish on display at the market. Above right: Llampuga which is currently in season found at Olivar market in Palma.

resh fish caught at sea has always only has to season it and put it on the hot been expensive – even at the plate. market and especially so in res- First catch your This is now one of the hottest restau- F taurants where a fish costing rants in Palma so you either have to get €20 a kilo retail zooms to at least €40 there early or book a table. It’s better to when simply grilled and served in a mod- book (Tel:971-729120) and ask for a table est little restaurant. in the corridor (‘una mesa en el pasillo’) be- Eight years ago the owner of the Bar des cause the dining room is a bit of crush and Mercat in the Santa Catalina market de- can also be very noisy. cided to make it easier (and much FISH At Anfos they charge €3.50 per person cheaper) for his customers who wanted a for use of the grill. Any drinks you order nibble of fresh shellfish with their drinks. are at menu prices. You can also order sal- Toni Campaner did so by letting his cus- at the Olivar market ads, chips and grilled vegetables from the tomers bring along, say, a kilo of gambas menu and there is a charge for bread. from the next door fish stalls, and he’d You can also go to one of the butcher grill them on the hot plate for an almost by Andrew Valente stalls and buy any of the cuts you fancy token charge of €3. and they will also be grilled on the hot This was a pioneer move in the Palma Bulletin restaurant critic and plate. eating out scene: no bar owner had ever Spanish food expert People take along lamb chops, fillet allowed his customers to enjoy grilled steaks and entrecôtes that get grilled to fresh gambas bought retail for an extra order. charge of only €3. But at the Plaza Olivar market Manolo of Anfos hot plate grill. You can take along How much you spend at the fish market About 30 years ago a young English the Restaurante Anfos on the first floor any of the big fish at the market, either depends on two things: the kind of fish writer who lived in Deya once a week also put his hot plate grill at the disposi- whole, butterflied or sliced into steaks. and whether it’s wild or farmed. As a rule came into Palma to shop at the Plaza Oli- tion of customers who wanted to buy The fishmonger descales and guts the fish the wild version is at least twice as expen- var market and he always had a couple of shellfish and fish at the market and take it and butterflies it or slices it as required. sive as the farmed variety. But farmed tapas and a drink at the Bar des Peix in the upstairs to the Anfos. This suits the restaurant cook very fish are very good, especially when grilled fish market. When oysters were available At Anfos there’s a small interior dining much be- properly on a hot plate. he would buy a dozen and got the bar to room and also tables out in the cause Anfos also has its own menu of grilled open them for him. But that was a favour corridor and it soon be- he shellfish and fish so it’s not absolutely the bar did for a regular customer. came fashionable to pay necessary to go to the market and buy When Toni Campaner offered the use of a visit to the fish your own fish. his hot plate grill for the modest charge of market to walk But it’s much more fun to do so. It helps €3 a time it was a revolutionary idea that around choos- if you know the main shellfish and fish won immediate acceptance. ing the fish that are usually on sale. Here are a few of Customers brought butterflied fish for that most them. grilling as well as gambas and other shell- appealed to Most Majorcans who take their own fish fish like mussels and clams. And the meat your eyes to Anfos usually get some shellfish as a lovers got in on the act with fillet steaks, and your starter. When tennis ace Rafa Nadal was entrecôtes and the big beef chop known pocket. eating at Anfos earlier this year with fam- here as chuletón. Half an hour ily and a few friends, they started off with The only drawback was that it was all a later you are lobster. That would make the meal too ex- bit of a crush: Toni’s bar is tiny with a eating it pensive for most of us but there are more small counter and no table space. So only straight Mussels. economical alternatives. a few could take advantage of his offer. from the CONTINUED ON FOLLOWING PAGE MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 26 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD

CONTINUED FROM PREVIOUS PAGE see on restaurant the eyes are, is juicier and more gelati- “Gambas a la plancha” menus as ‘gambas a la nous and, therefore, the part everyone Mussels, called mejillones in Spanish, plancha’. How- prefers. are splendid when done on a hot ever, the biggest Turbot has such a noble white flesh plate. The high heat quickly and best fresh that cooks shouldn’t mess about with it opens them and because they gambas are ex- by adding highly spiced or herbed don’t come into contact with tremely expensive – sauces. any other ingredients, not even when they are at That’s why grilling on a hot plate suits even any herbs, this is one of their lowest prices. it so well. When ready, the fish needs the two best ways of conserv- So what most of us have nothing more than a few sea salt flakes ing their natural sea taste. to do is buy defrosted fro- and a drizzle of virgen extra olive oil. The best mussels to buy are zen gambas that look good Anything else does nothing to enhance those called ‘mejillones de roca’, and cost around €15-€18 a the intrinsic quality of the turbot’s which live and breed on rocky kilo. flesh. coastlines. You can also get mus- Some of the frozen gam- Another fish everyone adores is the sea sels cultivated on special plat- bas are on the expensive bass, called lubina in Spanish. Wild sea forms in the estuaries of the side and make for first class bass has always been an expensive fish Galician coast. eating if they are properly but the farmed version has been a huge Most people prefer ‘mejillones grilled – which means the success: the price is right and so is the de roca’ even although they are cook must not grill them for too flesh. dearer. They are smaller than long. The reason the lubina makes such Galicians but are fleshy with a But even some of those at the lower good eating is that it feeds lovely sea taste. You’ll be doing the An- end of the price range can be mainly on little foscookafavourbybuying‘mejillones de delightful. It depends on shrimp and other roca’: he has to clean them and the b Another good whether the cook shellfish. Its Galicians are filthy and need a lot of manages to retain flesh has deli- scrubbing. nibble while their juiciness. cate and re- Another good nibble while waiting for When look- fined fla- the fish to be grilled is almejas (clams) or waiting for the fish ingforafish vours, but berberechos (cockles). Prices vary but al- to take to unfortu- ways get them as big as possible. When to be grilled is Anfos, it comes to clams and cockles, big is al- the first ways beautiful. almejas (clams) or choice for Two really economical starters are bo- most Ma- querones (fresh anchovies) and fresh berberechos jorcans is sardines. Prices go up and down depend- (cockles).Prices cap roig,lit- ing on how big the day’s catch was, but erally red expect to pay €4-€6 for sardines and a vary but always get head because little more for the fresh anchovies. its skin is red Get the biggest sardines available be- them as big as andithasabig cause they are best for grilling – and head. It is called eating. Fresh anchovies are possible. scorpion fish in Rodaballo too small for the English and is one of hot the gems of the Medi- called terranean. nately many cooks mess raya in Majorcans usually get the about with it, using spices, Span- fishmonger to butterfly it for the herbs and fruit juices that do noth- ish. It hot plate, an ideal method because it ing for it. always suits the compact texture of the fish and It’s one of the best fish to take to Anfos comes preserves its delicious taste. because it is delightful when butterflied But there is no farmed or frozen cap and simply grilled on the hot plate so skinned roig so we have to pay top prices for it. A that the flesh doesn’t dry out. You don’t and cut into friend bought it a couple of weeks ago at want any herbs with it except, perhaps, Dorada smallish pieces €42 a kilo at the market. Sometimes the a little snipped dill. and ready for cooking. smaller specimens go for €32. The gilt-head bream, or dorada as it is plate, so they will be floured and deep-fr The skate’s flesh is delicate Another popular fish for grilling at An- called here, has also been an immensely ied, like whitebait. and tasty but it is also good with fos is the spectacular turbot, called successful farmed dish and amazingly Another affordable starter that is espe- tartish flavours so ask for a vinaigrette or rodaballo in Spanish. We good value for money. A farmed dorada cially good when grilled on a hot plate is other citric sauce. can buy farmed turbot that makes a nice meal for one some- sepia (cuttlefish). The cook can do it Several stalls sell skate but the best for around €13-€19 a times costs as little as €3. whole or chop it into bite size pieces. Ei- buys are at Pescados Beatriz, the big stall kilo – but the wild kind Although a 300-350 grs do- ther way it’s a fine simple nibble when slightly to the right as you go through costs almost double. rada is good eating for grilled just right. the entrance on the Plaza Olivar side. I’ve had farmed turbot one person, look An unusual starter that most Everyone’s favourite starter at Anfos is several times at Anfos around people are inclined to for- gambas, the dish you and it has always been and get about thee days is truly delish. skate, You should get one that weighs at least 1.5-2 kilos which will be enough for four. With a fish like tur- bot you want the flesh to be thick, Boquerones see which ensures a nice if you degree of juiciness if it is grilled prop- can find one erly. The Pescados Ancora stall usu- weighing at least 800 grs and share it be- ally has turbot of 1.5 kilos and over. tween two. The thicker flesh on the big- A turbot has a white side and a dark ger fish makes a huge difference. side. The eyes are on the left-hand Although any dorada can be butterflied Almejas side of the body, which is the dark and will make good eating, if grilled part. Each diner should have some flesh whole the spinal bone will always en- from both sides. The dark side, where sure the heat is spread more evenly, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 27 GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD

b way it is delicious when drizzled lightly Lubina The reason the lubina makes such with virgen extra olive oil and grilled for good eating is that it feeds mainly a short time on the hot plate. Fresh merluza is a delicate fish with on little shrimp and other smooth flesh that flakes nicely when properly cooked. It texture is important shellfish. Its flesh has and is at its best when the fish is steamed or grilled on a hot plate. delicate and refined When buying fresh merluza, get those with tight firm scales and bright red flavours, but gills. At most stalls the price tags are for the whole fish. Merluza always costs a unfortunately many good deal more when sold by the slice. cooks mess about with An inexpensive fish to bear in mind when buying something it, to take to Anfos is mack- erel, called caballa using in Spanish. making the It’s a fine flesh juicier spices, meaty fish, and tastier. highly nu- Although I see plenty of mag- herbs and fruit tritious and nificent looking wild turbot and sea bass juicesthatdo Cap Roig full of flavour. on some of the fish stalls, I have never It is so versatile it is suitable for seen a wild dorada. But it doesn’t matter nothing for it. all cooking methods. And when very too much because the farmed kind, fresh it is excellent raw. When grilled on when grilled just right, is always higher prices it is still a good buy be- a hot plate the cook should be aiming at highly enjoyable, especially when the cause there is no waste. applying a high heat for a short time to spinal bone is left intact. Cooks like to work with make the skin crisp and give the flesh Tuna has become one of swordfish be- slight smoky flavour. One of the best the in fish all over the ways of handling mackerel, especially if world, especially they are somewhat large, is to have in Japan, that them butterflied but without removing most of us forget the spinal bone. This ensures maximum about that other juiciness. superb specimen Some cooks, amateurs and pros, leave called swordfish. Ma- cause the spinal bone intact in all fish when jorcan have long loved there is no time- using the butterfly method. That way swordfish, called pez de espada or em- consuming preparation in- there is always less chance that the flesh perador in Spanish. Their favourite way volved. They simply season the flesh, will dry out. of eating it is grilled on a hot plate so it is Caballa put it on the hot plate and then keep At this time of year you will be able to ideal for taking to Anfos. their eye on it for 3-5 minutes depend- try llampuga, a migratory fish that al- Swordfish is like tuna in that both have a meaty look and texture. But tuna is red ing on its thickness. ways comes to Majorca towards the end and reminds one of beef, whereas sword- The best swordfish is at the Pescados of summer and stays here until late No- fish has a lovely light pink colour that re- Beatriz stall on the perimeter of the mar- vember, or as long as the sea is warm How much you spend minds us of milk-fed veal. ket, almost opposite the entrance from enough. The llampuga, one of the blue The flesh of the swordfish is firm, the Plaza Olivar side. fish family, is called dolphin fish in Eng- at the fish market oily and well fla- A fish that benefits lish but it’s a name I never use. And it’s a depends on two voured. At name you’re never likely to need in Eng- the land because I’m sure none is ex- things: the kind of fish ported from any Mediterranean and whether it’s wild country. All the more reason for trying it while in Majorca. or farmed. The best way to do it on the Anfos Oli- Llampuga hot plate is to have it cut in lengths of 3- var market it can be sliced into steaks of 4 cm and have them serve it with bite different sizes. As with beef steaks like from being plainly grilled is hake, size pieces of well grilled red peppers. fillet and entrecôtes, swordfish should known here as merluza. It is a white fish Anfos opens only for lunch, starting be cut thick and, also like beef of the cod family and its price varies about 1pm. steaks, it should never be over- with its size: the bigger the merluza, the But on busy days, some of the lun- cooked or it will dry out. higher the price. chtime crowd are going home as late as The price can fluctuate You can either get the fishmonger to 6pm. considerably, from clean and cut it into thick steaks (never as low as thin ones) or to fillet it and €10.50 a kilo cut into supremes. Berberechos to a high Either of €22. Even at the

Calamar MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 28 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD VARIADO Majorcan gift to the world of TAPAS b I don’t know when the variado was introduced but it’s been around for more than 80 years and you get variados at bars all over the island.

n the 1960s, when the tourism with a small tapa. You can also buy as room, sliced potato in a hot sauce or a and in the outskirts, they introduced boom was moving up into top gear, many tapas as appetites allow – and the small saucer of paella. the tradition. some people used to say: “There Basques and the Riojans have an enor- The free tapa with a drink A Spanish bar in the Avenidas a couple I are three ways of doing anything. mous capacity for food. was never a Majorcan cus- of years ago handed customers a list of The right way, the wrong way and the Notice I have written that the glass of tom in the old days. But 20 tapas from which they could choose Majorcan way.” wine or caña comes with a small tapa. when people from one when they ordered any kind of The implication was that Majorcans It’s not a small dish piled high with bat- mainland Spain started drink. And it was one tapa for every had the knack of finding answers to ter-fried squid rings or croquettes. It’s a to open bars is some drink. However, everyone at the same problems that weren’t conventional but small saucer or other dish on which sits Palma neighbourhoods table had to order the same tapa. worked nicely. At least in the short two squid rings or three fried fresh an- There were also some bars term. chovies. around town that of- In the world of tapas, so highly popu- Spaniards dislike drinking fered some sur- lar all over Spain but never a big deal in ‘a palo seco’, as they call it. prising free- Majorca, the Majorcan way was to in- Those three little words lit- bies vent the variado. erally mean ‘like a dry stick’ with In the south of Spain, where the tradi- and they refer to having a a tion of eating tapas originated centuries drink without eating some- ago, the custom is that bars serve a small thing at the same time. tapa with every drink ordered. You can That something in a tapas also buy as many little dishes of tapas as bar can be a mere nibble as takes your fancy. simple as a few crisps, ol- In the north of the country, especially ives, peanuts or a tablespoon the Basque Country and La Rioja, most of potato salad. people don’t have a bar that is their ‘lo- But it can also be some- cal’, as happens in England. thing cooked such as squid They have streets full of bars and the rings, a meatball, a spoonful tradition is to visit four or five and have of tripe, cuttlefish stew, a a wine or a caña in each one – along fish fillet, a stuffed mush- The best deal I ever had was a fried egg and three strips of roasted green pepper with a €1.50 caña.

caña. The best deal I ever had was a fried egg and three strips of roasted green pepper with a €1.50 caña. And if I had had a second caña there would have been a second fried egg. When I told the owner I thought it was a most generous tapa considering the customers were having only a €1.50 caña, he smiled and said: “An egg costs 10 centimos. It’s a most economical lit- tle tapa.” Two variados at Bodega La Rambla. PHOTO: ANDREW VALENTE So when you have a two-egg potato SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 29 GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD

Ensaladilla is one of the most popu- lar salads. PHOTO: Another way of doing ANDREW VALENTE deep-fried fresh an- chovies. PHOTO: ANDREW VALENTE.

tortilla and get charged €7 (or more), think of the restaurant’s huge profit margin. One of the reasons Majorcans didn’t get involved in the tapa scene was that they had other things they nibbled on when they wanted a mid-morning or mid-afternoon bite. They had their pa amb oli with a few olives that went down a treat with a glass of red wine. Then there was so- brasada with the island’s country bread, a most delish snack that was always at hand and didn’t need any cooking. But even so, Majorca made a contribu- tion to the island’s tapas scene. It is called a variado and it consists of small amounts of different tapas on the same smallish plate. I don’t know when the variado was in- troduced but it’s been around for more than 80 years and you get variados at bars all over the island, not just in Palma. Some places do three sizes: small, medium and large. The variado is a concept totally un- Above: Batter-fried salt cod nuggets make a delish tapa. Below: Galician octopus is a favourite tapa all over Spain. known on the mainland where custom- ers order their tapas on separate small Others want a variado made up of Instead of small amounts of five or six of their two or three favourites. Even if dishes. But the variado is a tradition on only batter-fried items. tapas, some will ask for larger amounts a bar doesn’t have a variado on the the island and some Majorcans never blackboard they will always do one if order anything else. you ask. I was never a variado man. I tried Three places in Palma are renowned for them when I first arrived but I disliked their variados. Right at the top of the the different tapas piled on top of each league, with the island’s best traditional other. There are usually two in a sauce Spanish tapas to choose from, is Bodega and the sauces run into each other and La Rambla in the Via Roma, just up from the other tapas. La Rambla, the walkway that houses the A typical variado contains some Rus- flower stalls. They are always packed sian or potato salad, mushrooms in a out for lunch and dinner so get there sauce, batter-fried rings of squid, kid- early or you’ll have to wait for a table. neys in a sauce and perhaps batter-fried Their batter-fried tapas are among the fish fillets. best you’ll come across, partly because Even if the tapas in a sauce are kept they aren’t fried until the cook gets the separate, they soon spread around and order. That means they always come get mixed up with the potato salad or from the deep-fryer to the table and you moisten the crisp batter-fried tapas and are eating them at their best. ruin them. In no time at all you have a They also do an excellent variado at mish-mash of a dish that makes a very Bar del Peix in the Plaza del Olivar fish messy little snack. market. Another superior variado is at Perhaps that’s why variado veterans Bar Frau in the Santa Catalina market. never let the barman make up their They are extremely busy from early in variado. They want one that’s made to the morning and you’ll have great diffi- measure. culty getting one of the tables behind Some always reject tapas with a sauce, the counter and will have to settle for a for obvious reasons. tight space at the bar. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 30 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD Stop for quick bite at the pastry shops

The empanada, a meat pie that was originally eaten during Easter with a filling of chopped lamb, cured pork belly and snippets of sobrasada to give extra flavour and lubrication. ajorcans have always had b Majorcan coca pastry is thin and one slice isn’t especially plenty of pastry shops where they can buy the many sa- filling, so no matter the time of day, I always felt like a piece M voury and sweet specialities for which the island is known. when I came across a bakery I didn’t know. Some of these bakeries and pastry shops have a tremendous reputation but they and their wares are sometimes not so well I came across a bakery I didn’t know. known to the general public. Then, as now, there were three Even in Palma, you have to be really in- main kinds of coca:deverdura,depi- terested in pastries to know the best mientos rojos asadosandde trempó. places that sell them. The topping on the verdura coca is a Inland towns and villages have some of mixture of tomatoes, onions, shred- the best pastry shops and the easiest way ded leeks and usually acelgas (Swiss todiscoverthemistogothereandask chard) or spinach, The acelgas and the people in the street where to go. You’ll spinach, and to a lesser extent the soon get to know where the best buys are. leeks, have a high water content that When walking around Palma in the old gives the topping a deliciously moist days, when I was new to the city, I had a finish. simple way of getting to know the best The topping for the coca de trempó bakeries and pastry shops: as every place is based on the ingredients of trempó, was an unknown quantity, I tried all of Majorca’s most popular salad that in them. some homes is on the table every day But in those early days I was more inter- of the year. ested in the savoury than the sweet and This salad is truly basic: onions, to- for me the big attraction was the different matoes and green peppers. Every- kinds of coca de verdura, which reminded thing is chopped finely and dressed me of the pissaladière I used to eat in n with olive oil, vinegar and salt. When Toulon in the south of France. I first got to done properly it is a most refreshing know the pissaladière on summer holi- salad on a summer’s day, but fits in as days when I was a schoolboy. an accompaniment for just about any Majorcan coca pastry is thin and one slice main dish on any day of the year. isn’t especially filling, so no matter the time of day, I always felt like a piece when Coca de trempó. CONTINUEDONPAGE32 SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 31 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 32 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL GASTRONOMY - M AJORCAN FOOD

CONTINUED FROM THE PAGE 30 Since the

The same ingredients that go into the current salad are used for the topping of the coca economic crisis de trempó and they work nicely. The to- matoes help to keep everything moist, the started to bite onion also adds its juices and some of the really hard, finely chopped pieces of onion get slightly charred round the edges, thus adding extra many bakeries flavour and giving it eye appeal. and pastry The crunchy effect of the chopped green peppers in the salad gets lost during the shops made baking of the coca, but the little splashes of better use of colour are still there. The roasted red peppers topping is the available space simplest of the lot: finely shredded roast red peppers and nothing else. But like all and put in a few other dishes in which simplicity is the tables where keynote, this coca calls for the best roasted red peppers that have been very finely customers can sliced. have pastries In the best of these cocas, the red peppers are the big thick ones that are in season with coffee. during the summer months. Their thick- Above: Coca de verduras (vegetables). Below: Empanada (pastry filled with meat and peas). ness makes them best for chargrilling and that gives them a lovely smoked flavour. pork is used. You also get two other kinds quently. I have eaten some magnificent co- If you get there much later than 10am And when the peppers are shredded truly of filling: pork and peas and peas on their carrois, but usually at people’s homes. the cocarrois willcertainlyhavegoneand thin, this is also the most elegant of the own. Some bakeries do all three so you will However, the best ones I have ever had are you’llbeluckyiftheyhaveanyempana- three and definitely my favourite. If I am be asked which kind of empa- available to everyone. They are at the Bar das left. at a party where all three cocas are on offer, nada you want. Frau, inside the Santa Cata- The best thing to do is to go to Bar Frau I always make a beeline for the coca de pi- Another savoury lina market, and for breakfast and eat at one of the small ta- mientos asados. That’s because most other pastry you are always bles behind the counter. people are doing the same and it soon dis- mustn’t miss is freshly Apart from cocarrois and empanadas appears. the cocarroi, you can also choose from their full range The savoury coca pastry is almost always which is cres- of tapas. very thin and crisp, unlike the vast major- cent shaped In the late 1950s and earlier, Majorcans ity of pizzas that are only crisp round the and has a vege- considered it uncouth for adults to eat edges and completely soggy elsewhere. table filling. while walking along the street. In those Majorcan bakers get the overall crisp ef- Ihave days, people out for a stroll used to pop in fect by blind baking the coca pastry for a to bakeries to ask for a sweet or savoury few minutes before adding the topping. It pastry which they ate while standing to would be nice if Italian cooks learned one side of the counter. Nowadays, a lesson from Majorcan bakers and anything goes and young people especia- did the same with their pizza bases lly have no qualms about eating when before adding the topping. walking in the centre of town or anywhe- Most Majorcans’ favourite savoury re else. pastries also include the empanada, Since the current economic crisis started a meat pie that was originally eaten to bite really hard, many bakeries and pas- during Easter with a filling of try shops made better use of available spa- chopped lamb, cured pork belly and ce and put in a few tables where custo- snippets of sobrasada to give extra fla- made. mers can have pastries with coffee. vour and lubrication. It was so popular bak- never They have a Even so, in some bakeries in the centre ers kept on making it in the weeks follow- been enamoured of the cocarroi mainly lovely short crust of Palma without tables and chairs, I so- ing Easter. because most are done with a softish and and the filling is succulent. But the Bar metimes see sedate elderly Majorcan la- The empanada season got longer and uninteresting pastry. Frau cocarrois come with a slight incon- dies enjoying a cream cake as they stand longer until the popular lamb pies were be- However, the best ones, those with a venience attached: only the early birds get chatting in the corner near the door. ing made all year long. The difference is kind of short crust pastry, are extremely them. Sometimes old traditions die hard. that the chopped lamb filling is made only good. during Easter and for the rest of the year But I come across them most infre-

Above: The coca de pimientos rojos (roasted red peppers topping). Right: Cocarrois, a crescent shaped pastry which has a vegetable filling. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 33 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 34 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL MAJORCA - MORE THAN BEACHES

by Andrew Rawson

olish composer, Frederic Chopin visited Majorca P for six months during the winter of 1838- 9. He and his French com- panion, Amantine Dupin, The Serra de Tramuntana mountains are a sight to see all year round. planned the trip in the Mediterranean climate thinking it would ease the composer’s ailing health. However, they were to A WINTER IN MAJORCA find out that the winter in the Tramuntana Moun- A Winter in Majorca can estas and traditions. Here tains can be cold and wet still be bought in the vil- are a few ideas about what sometimes while their ac- lage under her pseudo- you can find during a win- commodation in Vall- nym, George Sands. ter visit to the island. If demossa monastery was So what can a visitor to you are looking for more far from the luxury they the island expect to find information visit the web- were used to. Chopin during the winter? Well page www.mallorcaday- spent the winter compos- the emphasis turns away sout.com and join the ing some of his best work from the beaches to the Facebook page of the same while Dupin wrote about towns and villages as the name. Have a good winter, her experiences. Her book, locals enjoy their local fi- Andrew Rawson.

Above: the Almudaina Palace. Below: Bellver Castle. PHOTO: ANDREW RAWSON Castles graded following the invasion by the cru- saders in 1229. You can visit the room ● Palma has three castles and what re- where Emir Abu Yahya surrendered the mains of a huge wall and moat. The cen- city to King James the Conqueror ofAra- tral one is the Almudaina Palace, or City gon.The occasion is still celebrated every Palace inArabic.The Moors built theirAl- New Year’s Eve. Bellver Castle is a cazar over 1,000 years ago and it was up- unique circular construction, dating from the 1300s, on the outskirts of the Above:Valldemossa Monastery. PHOTO: ANDREW RAWSON Below: Lluc Monastery. city, and it houses some of the city’s historical collections. Nearby Son Car- Monasteries tery in Valldemossa, in the tive couple stayed and find los Castle was built in the 1600s to pro- ● There are other fantastic Tramuntana Mountains out about their time here as tect the military harbour of Porto Pi religious buildings, apart north of the city. This well as the solitary life of and it is now home to the island’s mili- from Palma’s iconic Cathe- charming village was the monks. tary museum. dral of the Sea. We have named after the Arabic The island’s largest mon- Majorca has been attacked on many Chopin’s getaway, the Car- emir, Mossa and it nestles astery is Lluc and it can be occasions over the centuries and the thusian in a valley. We can find the found in the mountains towns and villages were all fortified. If monas- monastery where the crea- above Inca. It is well-worth you go for a drive around the coastline, the hairy road trip to the top try and spot one of the watchtowers to breathe in the clean air in built to look out for raiders from North the inspirational setting. Africa in the 16th century.The pirates Apart from the church, and of t»he Mediterranean spent fifty the famous Black Virgin years trying to take slaves and treas- statue, there are the King- ure from the villages. Lookouts would fishers, the name of the light fires to warn everyone dan- bluecoatedchoir,andamu- ger was on the horizon and the seum of island related arte- Majorcan men would fight off facts. You can book to stay the Ottoman intruders while overnight in a monk’s cell if their families hid in the fortified you want to walk in the churches. mountains. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 35 MAJORCA - MORE THAN BEACHES

Top: Dijous Bo. PHOTO: ANDREW RAWSON Below: Sineu market. Markets by King James II of Majorca. He did so to encourage peo- ● Every town and village pletomovetotheisland has a market and they be- from the mainland and to come more local affairs in replace bartering with an the winter months. People economy he could tax. The have more time to wander largest market on the island around the stalls before is Inca’s Dijous Bo – or Good having a rest over coffee or Thursday – market in No- lunch. The cooler weather vember. Around 200,000 makes it a more pleasant ex- people turn out to see the Night of Fire. Right: Barbeques for Sant Antoni. perience too.The first island hundreds of stalls, exhibi- markets were established at tions and displays of tradi- Fiestas ended and the occasion has the beginning of the 1300s tional events. been celebrated since 1643. ● After a summer busy sea- There are street parties, a son, there is nothing the is- night of music, with bands landers like better that in every plaza, and food and than to party at one of the drink events. But the high- many fiestas.The largest fi- light is the Night of Fire, esta is a week-long affair at where demons run the end of January based in through the streets with Palma and it celebrates the fireworks; you will also see city’s patron saint, Sebas- the Coca’s crocodile in the tian.A plague was ravaging parade! There are far more the city when a bone from sedate affairs in the villages the beginning of the bonfires in a fiesta which the saint was brought to and Saint Antoni is cele- month.This involves night celebrates resisting the Majorca in 1524.The plague brated across the island at time barbeques around devil’s temptation.

8 Three Kings 7 Parade in

9 Palma 2017 1 Arrival of Their Majesties at the Pier 10 2 6 Av. d’Antoni Maura 3 4 Passeig del Born 5 4 11 Pl. del Rei Joan Carles I 5 C. de la Unió Christmas 6 La Rambla ● Winter is not complete without Christmas and 7 while some elements of the festive season are the C. del Bisbe Campins 3 8 same as they are in the United Kingdom and Ireland, C. de Rubén Darío some are very different. Seasonal lights are very low 1 9 key in the towns and villages but Palma’s display is Passeig de Mallorca Start 10 both beautiful and tasteful. The switching on cere- Av. de Jaume III mony is a big event at the start of December and they 18.00 11 are on every night around the shopping centres. 2 Salutation of Their Christmas Day (25 December) is a much lower key af- fair because the big event is the Three Kings on the Majesties from Casal night of 5 January.This isTwelfth Night, the occasion Solleric (Passeig del when Balthasar, Melchior and Gaspar delivered their gifts to the baby Jesus in Bethlehem. The Three Kings Born) lead a procession of decorated floats through Palma’s parade as over 200,000 people turn out to see the spec- tacle. Everyone then stays at home the following day Top left: Three Kings Parade. PHOTO: ANDREW RAWSON Above: Route of this year’s Three King’s Parade held in for a traditional Spanish family Christmas. Palma. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 36 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL MAJORCA - TOURISM FOUNDATION SEVEN early landmarks in Majorca’s tourism Opening in 1934 of the first golf course in Majorca. 1838: Frédéric Chopin and George Sand 1905: Sociedad Fomento 1934: Alcudia Golf ● It wasn’t as though Majorca hadn’t del Turismo de Palma ● In February 1934 the first golf course in known visitors by the time Chopin and ● Fomento means development or pro- Majorca officially opened. It was the brain- George Sand arrived in December 1838, but motion. In English it has always been child of three men - Jaume Ensenyat, Mari- the Polish composer was to become a stan- known as the Majorca Tourist Board, a pri- ano Gual de Torrella and Pere Mas i Reus. dard-bearer for what was to later emerge as vate organisation which right from the Or rather, the concept of an integrated re- a tourism industry. A paradox has always time of its founding brought together busi- sort was the brainchild. The golf course, surrounded their three-month stay. While nesspeople, cultural experts, engineers, very rudimentary, was created in the Al- the landscapes ofValldemossa and theTra- artists, journalists ... . The thinking behind bufera wetland. It lasted only a short time muntana mountains enchanted both this organisation owed much to journalists - war was to intervene - but the idea for the Chopin and Sand, the climate wasn’t to - two in particular: Bartomeu Amengual resort with a hotel, some one hundred prove to be as conducive to alleviating the and Miquel dels SantsOliver. It wasAmen- properties to be sold and the golf course was composer’s medical condition as had been gual who promoted the concept of “Pro pioneering. The project was to be revisited hoped. Sand’s “Hiver à Majorque” offered Maiorica” and a means of attracting for- in the early 1960s. The new project ex- praise and criticism in equal measure, but eigners to “the natural and artistic beauties cluded the golf course, but instead created she bequeathed a title and a concept - that of our land ... through the development of the most ambitious of all resort develop- of winter in Majorca - which has endured the fertile industry”.And that industry was ments - Alcudia’s City of Lakes. and which was to also inform the founding The Grand Hotel. tourism. of the tourism industry. 1903: The Grand Hotel, Palma ● Inaugurated on 9 February 1903, the Grand Hotel was the most luxurious hotel in Spain. Designed by the Catalan architect Lluís Domènech, a disciple of Gaudí, the project was backed by a group of business- men which included the Marqués de la Torre, the first president of the Majorca Tourist Board. It was the clearest physical manifestation of what by then was being widely discussed - the “industry of the for- eigners”.

Signing took place 26 September 1953.

1953: The Madrid Pact First house acquired by the Archduke. ● The agreements between Spain and the USA that were contained in the 1953 Ma- 1867: Archduke Louis The Ciudad Jardín Hotel. drid Pact brought Spain’s isolation to an end. While the pact involved a great deal of Salvador 1921: Ciudad Jardín, military cooperation, it was also funda- ● The Austrian Habsburg Archduke first mental in opening up the country to tour- arrived in Majorca in 1867. His contribution Palma ism. In the same year a national plan for to society, culture, conservation and tour- ● The Ciudad Jardín Hotel opened in 1921, tourism was drawn up. The later Stabilisa- ism was to be immense. There is perhaps but its significance went way beyond its tion Plan of 1959 built on this, the Franco some legitimacy in saying that he attracted walls. This part of Palma was conceived regime being assisted by the IMF and the first tourists to the island. These intel- along the lines of the Garden City and thus World Bank and also being cajoled by its lectual friends and acquaintances learned borrowed from the thinking of urban plan- own strategists - Opus Dei technocrats - all about Majorca from their host.And what ning pioneers such as Ebenezer Howard. It into embracing tourism.The consequences theArchduke didn’t know about the island was in effect the first tourist resort and was were to be staggering. For Majorca, one of isn’t worth mentioning. He provided an en- to act as something of a blueprint for sub- the most significant developments oc- cyclopaedia in the form of the nine-volume sequent developments - Bellavista (Are- curred in the year after the Stabilisation “Die Balearen”. He was instrumental in the nal), Cala d’Or, Palmanova, Santa Ponsa, Plan was adopted. Palma’s Son Sant Joan preservation of estates such as Miramar. Son Baulo.These appeared in the 1930s and Airport opened to domestic and interna- And he was to become the honorary presi- were to provide a basic infrastructure for tional traffic in July 1960.The opening was dent of the Majorca Tourist Board. Miquel dels Sants Oliver. developments during the tourism “boom”. made, and mass tourism was to follow. SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 37 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 38 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL MAJORCA - BIRDWATCHING Sun, Sea, Scenery and Sensational birds!

Cuber Reservoir. PHOTO: NEVILLE JAMES-DAVIES b The cliff tops can be great places to sit Eleanora’s Falcons. The cobalt colour of the male Blue Rock Thrush adorns the down, take in the clear sea air and watch rock outcrops and the vegetation is filled By with migrating warblers. migrating raptors soar on thermals from The cliff tops can be great places to sit Neville down, take in the clear sea air and watch the cliffs as they continue their journeys migrating raptors soar on thermals from James- the cliffs as they continue their journeys to lands far away. to lands far away. Nothing beats watching Davies groups of Honey Buzzards and Black Kites passing close by, or perhaps a Black Stork or White Stork, or a majestic Golden Eagle, Short-toed Eagle or even he heading alone sums up to me a Bonelii’s Eagle. One could spend many what Majorca is all about and ex- an hour in sheer tranquillity watching plains why there are over 8 mil- the birds pass by and allow one to disap- T lion people visiting each year. pear into a world of fond memories. With 3,640 square kilometres of beauti- There are stunning mountain ranges on ful land and habitats and sunshine averag- Majorca with the most impressive (and ing 300 days, equating to 2,400 hours of now a UNESCO World Heritage Site), be- sunshine per year, no wonder people ing the famous Tramuntana Mountain keep flocking here. The sea has an average Range which extends for 88 miles from temperature of around 11º during the Andratx to Pollensa, with the highest cooler months and a welcome 26º during peak of Puig Major standing at an awe in- the summer months with 208 registered spiring 4,747ft above sea level – higher beaches, and if that wasn’t enough rea- than Ben Nevis. The peaks in winter are son, there are also over 340 species of covered with snow adding a new di- birds recorded on Majorca. Now that is an mension to the scenery and impressive number of species. the mountains are The sea around Majorca is incredibly home to some clean and filled with wildlife. Stunning spectacular birds – turquoise waters look even more impres- namely the rare Black Vulture,theSpec- sive when birds are present, their reflec- tacled Warbler and ten species of raptor. tions bouncing back, and scanning across Alpine Accentor is a regular winter fea- the open sea from the headland at For- ture and there are many outstanding res- mentor for the rare Balearic Shearwater taurants dotted around this mountain is so relaxing. High, rugged commanding range, giving a welcome stop for some cliff faces are home to Crag Martin, Pal- lunch or a beer, taking in the local food lid Swift,andPeregrine and during the specialities, enjoying crisp, mountain air, summer months – the much sought after Hoopoe. PHOTO: NEVILLE JAMES-DAVIES serenaded by bird song and rewarded by SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN LONDON FAIR SPECIAL SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT 39 MAJORCA - BIRDWATCHING the birds themselves going about their habitat, and with such rarities as Cream- business. Nothing beats having lunch in coloured Courser, Western Reef the mountains with raptors overhead and Heron, Lesser Short-toed Lark, Great a Wryneck calling from the Cork Oaks. Spotted Cuckoo and Citrine Wagtail It doesn’t get better than that. on the list, no wonder birders flock in When you consider that Majorca as a droves to this area. whole is important for the breeding colo- You could spend a whole day at the Al- nies of Balearic Shearwater, Cory’s bufera and there would still be plenty Shearwater, Shag, Storm Petrel, Black more to see. I enjoy visiting the hides Vulture, Eleanora’s Falcon, Audouin’s where I can watch a multitude of mi- Gull and Balearic Warbler, it is no won- grants, waders, ducks, herons, egrets and der the island has such great appeal to the terns. My favourite hides are the CIM visiting bird watcher. But if that wasn’t hide for close views of Wood Sandpiper enough, then just to give you an appe- and other waders and the Bishop 1 hide tizer; here are some of what can be possi- for Black Winged Stilt, Little Bittern, ble to see in a week’s stay during the peak Whiskered Tern, Black Tern, Osprey, visiting time. Little Bittern, Night Sardinian Warbler and close ups of Ken- Heron, Squacco Heron, Purple Heron, tish Plovers. Nothing beats seeing a Greater Flamingo, Marsh Harrier, Marsh Sandpiper or Teminck’s Stint Booted Eagle, Osprey, Black Winged feeding on migration – that is the beauty Stilt, Stone Curlew, Collard Pratin- of the island as a whole, you never know cole, Kentish Plover, Whiskered Tern, what could turn up, or where. Black Tern, Scops Owl, Bee Eater, Hoo- poe, Wryneck, Short-toed Lark, Albufereta Marsh Thekla Lark, Crag Martin, Tawny Pipit, Another impressive wetland site is the Nightingale, Great Reed Warbler, Albufereta Marsh – declared a natural Majorca is a Warbler, Seren and migrants ready to Balearic Warbler, Firecrest, Golden park in 2001 and the 3rd largest wetland entertain. Stone Curlew breeds in the Oriole, Woodchat Shrike and Serin. area. 196 different species have been re- magical island for stony fields below and at the entrance of Now that is an impressive list and is by no corded here, and along with two recently the valley, a series of massive boulders are means exhaustive. erected high-viewing platforms, you now the bird watcher, home to a pair of territorial Blue Rock have commanding views Thrushes. Six of the best over the marshes with the ability to The valley itself is immense, flanked by and water areas high ridges on both sides with the Caval Majorca has many excellent bird sites capture your heart Bernat Ridge being particularly impres- throughout the island, so no matter sive. Rock Doves here are of the true where you are staying; there will be some and wills one to wild status. excellent reserves and habitats on your want to keep doorstep. For me, there are six sites in Sallinas de Llevante particular that command a visit from any- coming back time I would like to finish my six of the best one visiting the island. with a mention of Sallinas de Llevante – after time. the salt pans. This amazing site was Cuber Reservoir thankfully given a natural park status in Starting with Cuber Reservoir, high up January 2017. Collard Pratincole, Water in the Tramuntana Mountain Range, this down to turquoise clear waters. Pallid Rail, Kentish Plover, numerous species reservoir is dwarfed by the highest moun- and Common Swifts can be found along of waders and ducks and migrating tern tains on Majorca, with Puig Major being the cliff faces along with Blue Rock species are just a small fragment of what the highest closely followed by the where you can delight in seeing a multi- Thrush and raptors. Night drives (not for is possible here. I have recorded both Tun- equally impressive peaks of Mansalla and tude of birds. This is one of the better sites the faint hearted) will give you Nightjar dra Bean Goose and White-spotted Es Tossa. Rugged peaks have slopes cov- to see Purple Heron, Great White Egret and Garden Dormouse andastopoffat Bluethroat here. Wood Sandpiper, ered to a certain height by Aleppo and and winter ducks. Fan-tailed Warbler, Cases Velles along the way will give you Marsh Sandpiper, Curlew Sandpiper, Umbrella Pines until there is no more soil Corn Bunting, Stone Curlew and Hoo- Scops Owls calling from the Cork Oak Red-footed Falcon and Bonelli’s Eagle to support their roots, and within the va- poe are regular sights with breeding woodlands. A sub-species of Common are sought after birds here and a whole riety of trees Firecrest, Nightingale and Quail in the area too. This is also an amaz- Crossbill can be found here during the day can easily be spent exploring this di- Majorca’s only species of woodpecker – ing place to sit and watch Eleanora’s Fal- day feeding in the pine trees, and any verse and exciting area. Winter can re- the Wryneck can be found. Above the cons hunting for Dragonflies over the pool on the woodland floor may see them ward you with a Dotterel and Glossy slopes the majestic Black Vulture circles marshes. drinking and bathing. Trencanpinyons is Ibis on a good day too. with Griffon Vulture now a regular sight the local name for them which means Well I hope I have whet your appetite and if one is lucky, an Egyptian Vulture Formentor Lighthouse ‘pine nut cracker’. No journey along here on my journey around this amazing is- too. A walk around the reservoir will give The twisting mountain roads with its se- is complete without a stop off on the re- land, packed with some of the best bird- you Yellow-legged Gull and from the ries of hairpin turn route to the tower at Alburcutx. This ing to be found anywhere in the Mediter- Dam Majorcan Midwife Toad in the bends leading tower, visible on the ridge above the mi- ranean. I remember my very first stay on stream below. Both Rock Thrush and up to the For- rador is an excellent raptor migration Majorca where I had over fifty new spe- Spectacled Warbler breed in the area mentor point where sometimes Honey Buz- cies for my list with many more new ones along with the Tawny Pipit, all sought Lighthouse is zards can be seen in triple figures, and is over the subsequent years. after species. Raptors here are impressive a journey to one of the best places to see Alpine Ac- Majorca is a magical island for the bird and Booted Eagle, Red Kite, Peregrine behold. The centor up close in the winter time. watcher, with the ability to capture your Falcon, Kestrel, Hobby, Osprey, Elea- scenery is abso- heart and wills one to want to keep com- nora’s Falcon and Honey Buzzard are lutely stun- Boquer Valley ing back time after time. Every visit is a all possible, with Sub-alpine Warbler ning, high The Boquer Valley close to the famous new adventure, with new memories, and and Black-eared Wheatear to whet ridges and es- northern town of Puerto Pollensa is leg- re-visiting places that inspire and enthral, the appetite further. carpments endary for visiting bird lovers, with the that insatiable urge to explore new sites, leading much sought after endemic Balearic to tell others of the delights and memo- Albufera Marsh Warbler a speciality, not to mention nu- ries that you now hold deep. The world famous Albufera merous endemic plants and remains of a But please don’t take my word for it, I Marsh can be found close to Al- Talaiotic Village. Orphean Warbler, Yel- am only one of many thousands who fall cudia. Declared a natural park low-browed Warbler, Red-breasted in love with the birds, the plants, the in 1988 it is home to over Flycatcher and Black Wheatear wildlife, the breath-taking scenery, the 10,000 wintering birds and have all been recorded here. The culture and hospitality of the island – boasts an amazing 303 differ- walk up to valley itself is sec- come and experience this for yourself and ent species of bird (so far). Cov- ond to none, with Wryneck, feel what the rest of us have felt for a long ering 1,646 hectares of amazing Cirl Bunting, Sub-alpine time now. MAJORCA DAILY BULLETIN SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2017 40 SPECIAL SUPPLEMENT LONDON FAIR SPECIAL