MYTH BUSTERS about in general and ROSÉ WINES in particular MYTH N°1 MYTH N°2 ROSÉ, A ROSÉ IS SIMPLE WITH NO HISTORY TO MAKE

Rosé, the wine that’s so easy to drink, yet so difficult to make. The wine that implores you to “seize the day” and enjoy the carefree moments of the present, whilst also boasting a history that spans three thousand years… When it comes to the iconic colour of Provence wines, contradictions abound. This explains why some myths, such as the image of rosé as a simple wine with no history, persist today. But other factors are also at work and help perpetuate a number of myths MYTH N°3 MYTH N°4 embedded in the popular psyche. In a world where wine consumption has stalled, or even declined, rosé wines have grown constantly over the past twenty ALL ROSÉS ARE YOU CAN ONLY DRINK years. The crossover in the curves may have sent out the wrong meaning and THE SAME! THE LATEST implied that such a popular wine in a challenging period for the industry may not be totally legitimate. OF ROSÉ Furthermore, French national and even social history seems to have made rosé into a wine that is to be enjoyed only in the summer. Provence’s are located at the end of the famous Nationale 7 road – long nicknamed the ‘holiday route’ – as Charles Trenet used to sing, thereby associating rosé with the holiday season. At a time when people like to make sense of the products they eat and drink, though, the time has come to debunk these myths and restore the full complexity, depth and diversity of rosé wines. And that’s precisely what this little MYTH N°5 MYTH N°6 guide intends to do! ROSÉS CAN ONLY ROSÉ IS FOR BE ENJOYED SUMMER DRINKING AS AN APERITIF ONLY

Publisher: CIVP Design-editorial content: Clair de Lune agency Illustrations: Audrey Bakx

2 • • 3 IN THE REGION, ROSÉ, A WINE MYTH the cradle of French winegrowing, N° 1 rosé wine has been produced for 2,500 years. It took a while to WITH NO HISTORY become the region’s speciality, though, because rosé was extremely prevalent throughout WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? history, even when winegrowing Because it is one of history’s oldest wines! In Antiquity, wines produced across the headed north. In fact, the Mediterranean rim, first in Greece and later throughout the Roman Empire, were all expression ‘rosé wine’, which very light-coloured wines. The grapes were crushed and the juice immediately began was coined at the end of the 17th fermenting. There was no contact with the must, no vatting or ageing, so the wines century, emerged in the Argenteuil were very lightly coloured. In , or French- area, near . Only later speaking countries, they were referred to during the would rosé become a speciality Middle Ages or the Renaissance as ‘clairet’, ‘claret’, of Provence. Whilst other wine ‘pearl grey’ or ‘partridge-eye pink’ depending on regions turned their backs on the region. In 1680, lexicographer César-Pierre Rosé wines are akin to the wines the colour when production of Richelet published one of the first French language of Antiquity. Rosés have therefore red wines started to surge in the dictionaries. Under the letter R, he mentioned use of 17th century, Provence would the adjective ‘rosé’ to describe a wine “similar to the been being made in Provence for remain true to rosé, choosing the colour of a bright red rose”. He quoted two examples over 2,500 years. most appropriate grape varieties of usage: “It is an excellent rosé wine”, and “To like and sites and honing rosé wine”. What more is there to say?! ancient techniques. Its specialisation gained greater traction in the 20th century, when production moved upmarket and the share of rosés increased. Provence is still the only wine region where rosé accounts for over 90% of the volume produced.

IN THE PROVENCE WINE REGION, winegrowers have developed specific winemaking techniques ROSÉ IS SIMPLE MYTH to preserve the freshness of N° 2 the crop – this is the direct-to- TO MAKE press method. As soon as the grapes arrive at the , they go straight to press, where WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? the juice is delicately separated Because it’s a wine that requires expertise and experience. In fact, some say it is the wine from the skins. The first juice is that needs the greatest precision! Contrary to what some entrenched beliefs suggest, collected partially or entirely, then rosé is not made by mixing red and . Neither can you make rosé without the fine sediment is removed. carefully considering the quality of the grapes, as it is only fruit of impeccable quality Only the clear juice is kept and that lends the wines their exuberance and clean taken straight to temperature- aromatics, both crucial elements of an enjoyable controlled fermenters. The and delicious rosé. So top rosé producers are also resultant wines are a pale pink consummate winegrowers. Conditions for harvesting with their hallmark crisp fruit on are also of paramount importance – the fruit is often Rosé requires impeccable fruit the palate. Other winegrowers harvested in the cool early hours of the morning and substantial control over prefer the skin-contact and even by night, to preserve its quality. Similarly, method where the choosing the right window for harvesting depending winemaking techniques. In berries are destemmed and on each variety and the vintage is essential. In Provence, winegrowers have crushed and the must soaks in addition, the first hours after harvesting are critical a tank (for up to 20 hours) at a to limit oxidation and avoid an untimely start to perfected the direct-to-press temperature of 10 to 15°C. The spontaneous fermentation. Decisions must be made must is then pressed to separate quickly, requiring a blend of precise analysis and a method which promotes aromatic the juice which is fermented for a fast-working, positive mindset. expression. week at low temperatures.

4 • • 5 IN THE PROVENCE WINE REGION, ALL ROSÉS MYTH where approximately 40% of N° 3 French appellation-labelled (AOC) rosés are made, rosé wines ARE THE SAME! display an iconic, pale and highly aromatic profile. But within this standard profile are numerous WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? subtleties stemming from the Because worldwide, there are myriad styles, depending on the grape varieties used, choices made by winegrowers the vineyard sites, the ripeness of the crop and the choice of winemaking techniques. and site-specific characteristics. Technically, rosé can be made from all black grapes, both as single-varietal and blends – The Provence wine region is home , Cabernet-Sauvignon, , Pinot, , , , , to three different appellations: Mourvèdre, Cinsault and , as well as grape AOC Côtes de Provence; AOC varieties that are fairly uncommon in France such as Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and , and . In terms of AOC Coteaux Varois en Provence. profile, there are dry rosés but also sweet, medium- In fact, the first one is home to sweet and sparkling rosés. France is the world’s Like all wines, rosés are very five smaller designations, leading country in terms of production, followed by site-sensitive. In Provence, the which are each entitled to the United States and Spain, but rosé is also made in their own specific geographic Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, Austria, Argentina, Chile, combination of climate, grape designation. The appellations South Africa and Australia, significantly broadening varieties and expertise has made have distinctive soil types, the range of approaches. Global rosé production weather patterns, elevations, rose from 20 million hectolitres in 2002 to 26.4 the region a unique location proximity to the Mediterranean million in 2018, an increase of 31%. and wind exposure. This eclectic for producing dry, very light combination is further bolstered and aromatic rosés. by the variety of authorised grape varieties, including the rare variety.

IN THE PROVENCE WINE REGION, winegrowers were exposed to the issue of the lifespan of rosé wines YOU CAN ONLY DRINK MYTH early on, particularly because N° 4 they were the first to export rosé THE LATEST VINTAGE OF ROSÉ wines across the globe – in other words, they knew when the wine would leave their winery, but not when it would be drunk. They therefore took into consideration the relatively fragile nature of WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? rosé wines with their sometimes Because you can enjoy other too, and not just the latest. It’s true that over time, fleeting aromas. In particular, they the colour drifts from bright pink to more of a salmon-pink tinge and aromatic expression mastered the most challenging gradually displays spicy, empyreumatic, floral or ripe fruit notes in addition to the yellow technical processes, making or white fruit aromas, citrus and tropical fruits. But the wines are not fading, they are huge strides over the past ten broadening their spectrum, in the same way that years. They now work faster and white wines evolve from their early youth to several wherever possible, in an air-free months or years’ bottle time. The penultimate environment so as to minimise vintage of a rosé wine is still gratifying and continues contact between the juice and to display its iconic style but will appeal to inquisitive Rosés are not ‘flash-in-the-pan’ oxygen. The aim is to preserve consumers who keep an open mind when it comes wines. In Provence, winegrowers wine from oxidation and to to new profiles. So rosé helps broaden the flavour promote very gradual, very slow spectrum and therefore resonates with current have gained control over oxygen development. They have also consumer trends. This might well turn the spotlight management, enabling them to learnt to vary blends of wines back on rosés with two or three years’ bottle age for bottling, incorporating more under their belt. craft rosés that fully retain their robust grape varieties such as delicious characters over time. Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan for late-bottled wines.

6 • • 7 IN THE PROVENCE WINE REGION, ROSÉ CAN ONLY BE ENJOYED MYTH there are no preconceived ideas N° 5 when it comes to drinking rosé with food, either in restaurants or AS AN APERITIF at home. AOC Côtes de Provence rosé wines pair with aioli, stuffed vegetables, risotto, pasta with WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? clams or tagine. Those from AOC Because rosé wines are equally suitable for an aperitif as they are for an entire meal! Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence make Due to their easy-drinking character they have become a go-to wine for casual occasions good companions for, say, sea- such as pre-dinner drinks or aperitifs, to be enjoyed alongside canapés, buffets, tapas caught fish, either pan-seared or and sharing platters. These wines’ genuine versatility means they can be enjoyed with marinated, or soft cheeses. AOC different styles of cuisine, making them perfect for Coteaux Varois en Provence rosés drinking when not everybody is eating the same dish. can be served with pistou soup However, rosé wines’ versatility is also an advantage or spicy foods like curry. There is when it comes to the dinner table, where they will a wide range of possibilities and pair equally as well with seafood, vegetarian, fish From urban, vegan and flexitarian as rosé consumption becomes and poultry dishes as they will with cheeses. They cuisines to fusion foods, the profile less summer-focused and gains also stand up flawlessly to all types of cuisine, from currency throughout the year Mediterranean and Oriental to Creole and Asian of rosé wines has enabled them when it meets products from dishes. other seasons, the scope continues to tap into new consumer trends to broaden. and establish a place at the dinner table.

IN THE PROVENCE WINE REGION, people have subconsciously made rosé wine consumption ROSÉ IS FOR SUMMER MYTH somewhat seasonal. And yet, N° 6 they also remember that the DRINKING ONLY older generations used to drink it all year round. Nothing is cast in stone – at the forefront of market WHY IS THIS NOT TRUE? trends, winegrowers have noticed Because it is a cultural construct, specific to France. It can be easily explained and is that consumption is becoming related to the invention of tourism in the 19th and 20th centuries, and its subsequent weather-sensitive. Consumption development. The South of France, home to Provence, along with the and Northern is dictated less by the season and Italy, became magnets for the first holidaymakers. Most of them were affluent and often more by the weather. As soon came from Great Britain – they chose to spend as the weather is , people the winter under milder climes. But as tourism willingly drink a glass of rosé, went mainstream, and coincided with a decline in even in the winter. It is the go-to farming activities, the holiday season moved to the drink for al fresco pavement café summer. Summer is the hottest season and as the The term now used drinking, in city restaurants and French rediscovered rosé during their holidays, they is ‘weather-sensitive’ areas that draw in large numbers associated it quite naturally with good weather, which of holiday makers like ski or highlighted its refreshing flavours, especially when because Provence rosé wines seaside resorts. temperatures soared. This idea became entrenched are drunk all year round, in the national psyche but is not a universal concept. In other countries, where admittedly rosé as soon as the sun shines. consumption is higher when the sun shines, it is more evenly distributed throughout the year.

8 • • 9 NOTES

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… PROVENCE WINES KEY FACTS & FIGURES ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… THE INDUSTRY

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……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 551 PRODUCERS 3 AOC ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… - 490 independent • Côtes de Provence: 70% - 61 co-operative wineries • Coteaux ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… over 90 d’Aix-en-Provence: 19% NEGOCIANTS • Coteaux ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Varois en Provence: 11% PRODUCTION ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… 27,680 ha 1,246,010 hl ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… (equivalent to 166 million bottles) ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… Divided between: Rosé 91% Red 5% ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… White 4%

……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… SALES • Export: 40% ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… • Super/hypermarkets: 27% • Others (Hospitality, wine merchants, ……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………… direct sales): 33%

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10 • • 11 PRESS CONTACTS

CONSEIL INTERPROFESSIONNEL DES VINS DE PROVENCE Jennifer Penna & Cédric Skrzypczak +33 (0)4 94 99 50 13 - [email protected] // [email protected] www.vinsdeprovence.com

CLAIR DE LUNE AGENCY Raphaëlle Amaudric & Hélène Basso +33 (0)4 81 13 15 22 - [email protected] www.clairdelune.fr