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16 Textiles in Defence* Richard a Scott Defence Clothing and Textiles Agency, Science and Technology Division, Flagstaff Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS, UK
16 Textiles in defence* Richard A Scott Defence Clothing and Textiles Agency, Science and Technology Division, Flagstaff Road, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS, UK 16.1 Introduction To be prepared for War is one of the most effectual means of preserving Peace (George Washington, 1790)1 Defence forces on land, sea, or air throughout the world are heavily reliant on tech- nical textiles of all types – whether woven, knitted, nonwoven, coated, laminated, or other composite forms. Technical textiles offer invaluable properties for military land forces in particular, who are required to move, live, survive and fight in hostile environments. They have to carry or wear all the necessities for comfort and sur- vival and thus need the most lightweight, compact, durable, and high performance personal clothing and equipment. The life-critical requirements for protecting indi- viduals from both environmental and battlefield threats have ensured that the major nations of the world expend significant resources in developing and providing the most advanced technical textiles for military use. 16.2 Historical background Military textile science is not new, and one of the earliest documented studies can probably be credited to Count Rumford, or Benjamin Thompson. Rumford was an American army colonel and scientist who issued a paper in 1792 entitled ‘Philo- sophical Transactions’, which reported on the importance of internally trapped air in a range of textile fabrics to the thermal insulation provided by those fabrics.2 He was awarded the Copley Medal for his paper, as the significance of his discovery was recognised immediately. * Copyright MOD (1997) DCTA, Colchester, Essex CO2 7SS 426 Handbook of technical textiles 16.2.1 Pre-Twentieth century Up until the end of the 19th century military land battles were fought at close quar- ters by individual engagements. -
Luxury Brands Expansion in China
View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Göteborgs universitets publikationer - e-publicering och e-arkiv Luxury brand’s expansion in China - Opportunities and possible strategies Bachelor thesis in International Business Spring 2011 Author: Dang, Xi-Er 890324-5085 Wan, Jessica 880226-4369 Tutor: Harald Dolles Acknowledgement This bachelor thesis has been written at the department International Business at the School of Business, Economics and Law at the University of Gothenburg. In the time frame of ten weeks, we have gained great knowledge about the luxury industry in general and luxury brands operating in China, in particular. Additionally, we have acquired a deeper understanding on how to conduct an academic research. We would like to thank our tutor Harald Dolles who has been of great help with assistance and guidance along the construction of our thesis. School of Business, Economics and Law, June 2011 ____________________________ ______________________________ Jessica Wan Xi-Er Dang 2 Abstract Since the economic reform of China in 1978, the country has been under a process of industrialization and modernization. The average household income has risen, where the proportion of middle-class households, earning more than RMB 3 500 per month, has increased. In addition, there is a great share of the „China elite‟, which consists of the upper middle-class and the very wealthy. Due to China‟s enormous market of 1.3 billion people and the growth of wealthier households, the country has become the largest market for luxury. Many luxury brands are established in the market today, some with a greater presence, others more limited. -
Rurality, Class, Aspiration and the Emergence of the New Squirearchy
Rurality, Class, Aspiration and the Emergence of the New Squirearchy Jesse Heley Submission for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy Institute of Geography & Earth Sciences, Aberystwyth University 25th May 2008 For Ted, Sefton and the Wye Valley Contents 1 The coming of the New Squirearchy 1 1.1. The rebirth of rural Britain and the emergence of a New Squirearchy 2 1.2. Beyond the gravelled driveway 9 1.3. At play; beyond play? 15 1.4. From squirearchy to New Squirearchy; a reflection of changing class politics 25 1.5. Research goals 33 2 Class, identity and gentryfication 37 2.1. The New Squirearchy and the new middle class 37 2.2. A third way; through cultural capital to performing identity 43 2.3. Embodied rural geographies 48 2.4. Everyday performances and rural competencies 61 2.5. Tracking rural identity and accounting for experience 66 3 As I rode out … 75 3.1. Ethnography and rural geography 75 3.2. Eamesworth and the irony of a New Squirearchy 80 3.3. The coming of the commuter 84 3.4. On being a local lad 88 3.5. Gathering and interpreting evidence 91 3.6. The mechanics of data collection 94 3.7. The ethics of squire chasing 97 4 Out of the Alehouse 105 4.1. The pub, the squirearchy and the rural idyll 105 4.2. The Six Tuns 107 4.3. Office politics 110 4.4. Pass the port; the role of alcohol 113 4.5. Masculinity 115 4.6. New Squires; or archetypal middle class pub dwellers 119 4.7. -
Bradford & Bingley V Rashid
HOUSE OF LORDS SESSION 2005–06 [2006] UKHL 37 on appeal from [2005] EWCA Civ 1080 OPINIONS OF THE LORDS OF APPEAL FOR JUDGMENT IN THE CAUSE Bradford & Bingley plc (Appellants) v. Rashid (FC) (Respondent) Appellate Committee Lord Hoffmann Lord Hope of Craighead Lord Walker of Gestingthorpe Lord Brown of Eaton-under-Heywood Lord Mance Counsel Appellants: Respondents: Justin Fenwick QC Christopher Nugee QC Nicole Sandells William Hanbury (Instructed by Addleshaw Goddard) (Instructed by Williscroft & Co) Hearing date: 24 May 2006 ON WEDNESDAY 12 JULY 2006 HOUSE OF LORDS OPINIONS OF THE LORDS OF APPEAL FOR JUDGMENT IN THE CAUSE Bradford & Bingley plc (Appellants) v. Rashid (FC) (Respondent) [2006] UKHL 37 LORD HOFFMANN My Lords, 1. The chief question is whether a letter containing an acknowledgement of a debt for the purposes of section 29(5) of the Limitation Act 1980 is inadmissible on the ground that the letter formed part of a negotiation with a view to the creditor giving the debtor time to pay or accepting a lesser amount. In common with all of your Lordships, I consider that the letter was admissible. But there is some difference of opinion over the reasons and I must therefore state my own. There is also a subsidiary question as to whether the letters contained acknowledgements within the meaning of the Act. They are set out in the speech to be delivered by my noble and learned friend Lord Brown of Eaton-under-Heywood and I agree with him and my noble and learned friend Lord Hope of Craighead that references in the letter of 26 September 2001 to an “outstanding balance” and in the letter of 4 October 2001 to an “outstanding amount” are plain acknowledgements of the existence of a debt. -
Download Now PDF File 10.2 MB
VOL 16 ISS 154 £3.50 sportsSPORTS OUTDOORS TRIATHLON RUNNINGinsight FITNESS TRADE sports-insight.co.uk INTERVIEW TECHNOLOGY ANALYSIS YOU’VE GOT TO GET GONE WITH SMART DO I NEED NIKE THE WIND P45 P38 AND ADIDAS? P34 SEE PAGE 3 PROTECT YOURSELF TO WIN D3 page_SPORTS INSIGHT 25/10/2019 14:12 Page 1 BODY ARMOUR page_SPORTS INSIGHT 03/12/2019 11:41 Page 1 BODY ARMOUR NEW ZEALAND’S biggest selling headgear throughout the World! The Ventilator available exclusively NOW! For the full range go to bodyarmournz.co.uk North/Scotland/Ireland: Fraser Patterson 07894 964194 [email protected] South/South West Wales: James Lawrence 07712 345335 [email protected] UK BASED STOCK SERVICE AVAILABLE 4 WELCOME to this month's Sports Insight Canterbury renews British & Irish Lions partnership Specialist rugby brand “That is why we’ve introduced played a part in the 2013 & 2017 Canterbury will again partner the Lions Origin Club logo to our tours. with the British & Irish Lions Teamwear ranges for those clubs “Behind every player is a great to supply all of their on-fi eld kit who have identifi ed, nurtured and support network of people who and training wear for the tour developed a special talent who has have helped them reach the very of South Africa in 2021 after represented the Lions on the global top and, for me, that starts with renewing their deal as O cial stage. Hopefully, this can help Trebanos where I started seriously Apparel Partner. to inspire the next generation of playing rugby. -
All Royal Warrant-Holding Companies A.C
ALL ROYAL WARRANT-HOLDING COMPANIES A.C. Bacon Engineering Ltd A.C. Cooper (Colour) Ltd A. Fulton Company Limited A. Hester Ltd A.J. Freezer Water Services Ltd A. Nash A.S. Handover Ltd A&E Fire and Security Limited Abaris Holdings Limited T/A Arthur Sanderson & Sons Abbey England Limited Abels Moving Service T/A Abels Absolute Floorcare Adexchange Media Limited ADM Agriculture Ltd Agma Ltd Agri-Cycle Ainsworths Homoeopathic Pharmacy Airglaze Aviation GmbH A J Charlton & Sons Ltd AJ Lowther & Son Ltd Alan Scott Panel Beater & Paint Sprayer Albert Amor Ltd Albert E. Chapman Ltd Alexandre of England 1988 Ltd All About Baths Allan Coggin Furnishing Consultant November 2019 Allen & Foxworthy Ltd Allen & Page Ltd Allens Farm Amber Computing & IT Services Ltd Amenity Horticulture Services Amerex Fire International Ltd Anderson & Sheppard Ltd Andrew M. Jarvis Ltd. T/A Sandringham Apple Juice Andrew Wilson & Sons Ltd Andy Spooner Painters And Decorators Anglia IT Solutions Ltd Angostura Ltd Angus Chain Saw Service Anthony A. Barker Ltd T/A Barker Group Anthony Buckley & Constantine Ltd Apex Lift & Escalator Engineers Ltd Apollo Fire Detectors Limited Aquadition Ltd Arcan Services Ardayre Interiors Armitage Pet Products Limited Arnold Wiggins & Sons Ltd Arnott & Mason (Horticulture) Ltd Arterial Moving Ltd Artistic Iron Products Ltd ASD Limited T/A Kloeckner Metals UK Asprey London Limited Aston Martin Lagonda Ltd Aubrey Allen Ltd Autoglym Ltd Autoscan Ltd A W Hainsworth and Sons Limited November 2019 Axflow Ltd Axminster Carpets Limited Bacardi-Martini Ltd Baco-Compak (Norfolk) Ltd Badgemaster Ltd Balgownie Ltd Ballyclare Limited Barber Wilsons & Co Ltd Barcham Trees Plc Barnard & Westwood Ltd Bartram Mowers Ltd Bath Shield UK T/A Chadder & Co BBA Shipping & Transport Ltd. -
Luxury Lithics | Decorative Stone on Bond Street
Urban Geology in London No. 16 Luxury Lithics | Decorative Stone on Bond Street Ruth Siddall Old Bond Street was first laid out in the mid 1680s by a group of property developers and goldsmiths including Sir Thomas Bond, for whom the street is named. New Bond Street was completed after 1700. It is now the home of jewellers, fashion houses and fine art galleries. Luxury global brands aim to create a high-end shopping experience, with bespoke detailing applied to the materials used in the construction of the interiors and often exteriors of the building as well as to the merchandise. Architects and designers are employed to set a style across global branches of these stores. Thus brands often adopt a livery of often lavish décor which may include the use of specific stones in stores across Europe and the Globe. Thus the same stones may be used in, say, Mulberry stores in London, Paris and New York. Stones are chosen for their appearance and unique character. Indeed this guide has turned into a bit of an epic, with almost 40 different stones identified, representing the igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic categories and coming from the British Isles and continental Europe as well as from further afield localities including Canada and Brazil. They range in age from 2 billion year old Bushveld gabbros to 50,000 year old travertines from Rome. From Piccadilly, Old Bond Street and then New Bond Street run NNE in a straight line from Piccadilly to Oxford Street. For both Old and New Bond Streets, street numbering runs sequentially up the east side of the road and then down the west side of the roads. -
4 8 Pall Mall
www.48pallmall.com 4 8 PALL MALL This development will offer 32,000 sq. ft. of modern, open plan offices designed with meticulous attention to detail. 48 Pall Mall will provide a new contemporary building on one of London’s most famous streets in the acclaimed district of St James’s. 2 48 PALL MALL, ST JAMES’S 3 ST JAMES’S Timeless yet constantly evolving, St James’s is both historic and contemporary in character, placing it at the heart of London life. Synonymous with the finest goods and services, St James’s is characterised by beautiful shop fronts, leading galleries, auction houses and luxury fashion retailers that not only defy the test of time but which, for many, have become lifelong staples. Yet what makes St James’s so vibrant is its capacity to embrace change; tradition constantly makes room for the modern and for every nod towards the past there is an equally important evolution of its defining values. St James’s embodies the perfect blend of the classic and the contemporary. 48 PALL MALL, ST JAMES’S 5 BARS, RESTAURANTS & HOTELS A DINING DESTINATION OF DISTINCTION Food and drink have long played a pivotal role in reflecting the character of St James’s. The offering continues to evolve with an evident focus towards attracting the world’s most eclectic and high-quality independent restaurateurs, all striving to provide for the needs of residents, professionals, shoppers and visitors alike. St James’s is popular for the quality of its ensemble of restaurants; from established favourites such as Wiltons and Green’s, to the contemporary Avenue and Sake no Hana on St James’s Street. -
Water-Repellent and Breathable Clothing
Water-repellent and breathable clothing Functional clothing and materials Nina Forsman 24.9.2019 Hydrophobicity? < 90° > 90° > 150° hydrophilic hydrophobic superhydrophobic Surface hydrophobicity vs absorption Water-proof -> diving Water-repellent -> rain absorption Water-repellency is not a problem, neither breathability. It is the combination that is tricky. What makes a surface hydrophobic? 1. Low surface energy -> oils, waxes etc. 2. High surface roughness How is this achieved on textiles? Existing water-repellent textiles Membranes, e.g. GoreTex - Microporous structure of polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE, Teflon) Other microporous polymer membranes and coatings Polyurethane, acrylics, polyamino acids … Closely woven fabrics Ventile, Poplin Existing water-repellent textiles Biomimetic fabrics Stomatex, closed cell foam neoprene, mimicking transpiration in plant leaves Sympatex, membrane made of polyether-ester block copolymer Super-Microft, microscale roughness like the lotus leaf Shoe sprays Wax bars Fjällräven What about eco-friendliness? Water-resistant and breathable Unmodified textile Wax particles Continuous wax film H2O H2O H2O vapor vapor vapor H2O H2O liquid liquid H2O liquid Cellulosic textile 24.9.2019 8 Wax particles 10μm Carnauba wax Wax dispersion Images: www.ehow.com www.newdirectionsaromatics.com www.sonicator.com Layer-by-Layer deposition of the coating 24.9.2019 10 Natural polycations (binding agents) Poly-L-lysine (PLL) Chitosan Cationic starch - Protein - Comes from - Comes from potato, - Antibacterial -
All Royal Warrant-Holding Companies
ALL ROYAL WARRANT-HOLDING COMPANIES A.C. Bacon Engineering Ltd A.C. Cooper (Colour) Ltd A. Fulton Company Limited A. Hester Ltd A.J. Freezer Water Services Ltd A. Nash A.S. Handover Ltd A&E Fire and Security Limited Abaris Holdings Limited T/A Arthur Sanderson & Sons Abbey England Limited Abels Moving Service T/A Abels Adexchange Media Limited ADM Agriculture Ltd Agma Ltd Agri-Cycle Ainsworths Homoeopathic Pharmacy Airglaze Aviation GmbH A J Charlton & Sons Ltd Alan Scott Panel Beater & Paint Sprayer Albert Amor Ltd Albert E. Chapman Ltd Alexandre of England 1988 Ltd All About Baths Allan Coggin Furnishing Consultant Allen & Foxworthy Ltd Allen & Page Ltd April 2020 Allens Farm Amber Computing & IT Services Ltd Amenity Horticulture Services Amerex Fire International Ltd Anderson & Sheppard Ltd Andrew M. Jarvis Ltd. T/A Sandringham Apple Juice Andrew Wilson & Sons Ltd Andy Spooner Painters And Decorators Anglia IT Solutions Ltd Angostura Ltd Angus Chain Saw Service Anthony A. Barker Ltd T/A Barker Group Anthony Buckley & Constantine Ltd Apex Lift & Escalator Engineers Ltd Apollo Fire Detectors Limited Aquadition Ltd Arcan Services Ardayre Interiors Armitage Pet Products Limited Arnold Wiggins & Sons Ltd Arnott & Mason (Horticulture) Ltd Arterial Moving Ltd Artistic Iron Products Ltd ASD Limited T/A Kloeckner Metals UK Asprey London Limited Aston Martin Lagonda Ltd Aubrey Allen Ltd Autoglym Ltd Autoscan Ltd A W Hainsworth and Sons Limited Axflow Ltd Axminster Carpets Limited Bacardi-Martini Ltd April 2020 Baco-Compak (Norfolk) Ltd Badgemaster Ltd Balgownie Ltd Ballyclare Limited Banchory Dry Cleaners Barber Wilsons & Co Ltd Barcham Trees Plc Barnard & Westwood Ltd BBA Shipping & Transport Ltd. -
001 in WINTER 201-17 COVER.Indd
LONDON THE OFFICIAL LUXURY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE CELEBRATING 25 YEARS £7 where sold in association with ® local guides worldwide London 30 Old Bond Street 020 77 58 80 60 Explore the Akris Boutique at www.akris.ch #RainStartsPlay 83/85 Regent Street, London W1B 4EN hunterboots.com COACH HOUSE NOW OPEN 206 REGENT STREET COACH.COM ©2016 COACH® ©2016 A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR hile it might seem obvious to broach the (see page 29). Bryson-Edmett was equally enamoured W subject of texture as the inclemency of by woodturner Nic Webb, whose work processes winter begins to bite, exploring the topic I urge you to view on Vimeo. Read the compelling has nevertheless allowed the editorial team to chart interview on page 24. a voyage of discovery for the IN London reader. In this edition, I owe a debt to our photographers Expansive in our approach, this issue is dedicated to Robert Bellamy and Karin Berndl, who have brought texture in all its forms – from the tactility of fabrics concepts to life in pages that are visually arresting. and natural materials like wood or porcelain, to more Bellamy has taken a playful approach to knits and abstract concepts such as the importance of texture denim and, alongside Thea Lewis-Yates, IN London’s in food and wine. And it has been utterly fascinating fashion editor-at-large, has given our menswear story getting to know the participants in this edition. a modern twist by subverting a retro vibe. Dr. Martens The work of Fenella Elms and Katharine Morling, and a Valentino suit? It’s a match made in heaven. -
Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020
The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Front Cover Image: Detail, Tuskegee Airman Edward Gleed, Photographed by Toni Frissell, March 1945, Ramitelli, Italy, © Prints and Photographs Division, The Library of Congress, Washington, DC, United States, LC–F9–02–4503–330–07. Edward Gleed (1916–1990) was photographed by Toni Frissell (1907–1988), an American photographer, known for her fashion photography and war imagery. In this 1945 photograph, Gleed is wearing his uniform and equipment of a Second World War fighter pilot, posing in front of a P–51D Mustang airplane. During the Second World War, Gleed was educated at Tuskegee University (formerly Tuskegee Institute), located near Tuskegee, Alabama; hence, the moniker Tuskegee Airmen, who were the first African–American military aviators and aircrew in the United States Army Air Forces. The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Ingrid E. Mida Proofreader Georgina Chappell Editorial Assistant Eanna Morrison Barrs Editorial Assistant Zara Kesterton Editorial Assistant Lynda Xepoleas Published Quarterly By The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal The Journal of Dress History Volume 4, Issue 3, Autumn 2020 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org/journal Copyright © 2020 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The ADH supports and promotes the study and professional practice of the history of dress, textiles, and accessories of all cultures and regions of the world, from before classical antiquity to the present day.