Decanter Italy Issue 2018
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
DECANTER PROMOTION DECANTER PROMOTION “A truly inviting GAVI drink… an ideal white for both afternoon Profile of Piedmont’s premium conversation and white on the export market for the table.” ocated on the south-eastern edge of extends over eleven municipalities in the province Piedmont, the Gavi wine-producing area lies of Alessandria, with the town of Gavi as the close to the Ligurian Apennines bordering wine-producing and cultural pole dominated by its on the province of Genoa, a forty-minute tenth century fortress. Gavi acts as the demarcation L drive from Genoa itself and one hour from Milan. In line between the white lands (to the south) and the this so suitable corner for white wine production in red lands (to the north). The white lands with their an area famous for its reds (there are actually some calcareous-marlish-sandy nature originating from interesting similarities between Barolo and Gavi: 11 the sea, are the oldest and feature a thin covering of municipalities, the same vein of soil - Serravalle marl earth. On the other hand side, the red lands, where - , single varietal - Cortese here, Nebbiolo there Gavi DOCG the ancient fluvial terraces provide deeper and - and the same inclination for excellence), a rather in figures more compact soil, are clayey. The wines from the peculiar encounter occurs. The wind, coming off the Four versions: white zone are gentler, more sophisticated, and sea just thirty kilometres away, blows as far as the 99% still, but also have a lower alcohol content and a longer life. Apennine snows, caressing the villages, castles, small amounts of Those from the red lands have more body, structure hills, woods and vineyards, donating an impressive sparkling, spumante and a little more alcohol. The other municipalities light to the air. Sea-snow-light, the characterising and reserve. involved are: Bosio, Capriata d’Orba, Carrosio, trio of these lands suspended in time, messengers Francavilla Bisio, Novi Ligure, Parodi Ligure, Pasturana, Surface area: about of an ancient nobility. San Cristoforo, Serravalle Scrivia and Tassarolo. 1,500 hectares. This is borderland, an authentic and valuable region The Apennines and the sea have unquestionable where, in order to secure safe passage through the Annual production: influence on the local climate. Cold and snowy Apennine passes, free from the tyranny of feudal around 13 million winters, abundant rain in the spring and autumn lords and bandits, the Genoese expanded to the bottles. and a very sunny, windy and dry summer. The “Oltregiogo” area, as it was then called. This fertile Producers: about temperature differences between day and night are and productive area with its abundance of water and 440 companies fundamental for the aromatic synthesis of the timber, followed the Salt Road, a trade route that went between producers, grapes. The vineyards are guyot-trained and grow from the coast towards the Po valley and then either wine-makers and at an altitude of between 180 and 350 metres. further into Europe or towards the Via Postumia bottlers. Roman road to the Adriatic. The Ligurian aristocracy Turnover: around History built their summer estates here which, with time, 55 million Euros. Wine producing in the Gavi area dates back to went on to become wine-producing companies in the ancient times as the first document dated 3rd June Export: style of Bordeaux châteaux (although its vineyards are 972, preserved in the State Archives in Genoa, 85% of total. not so extensive, the largest winery, boasts 65 hectares in testifies. The word “Cortese” is mentioned for the one plot, but the others, apart from few exceptions, are first time in a letter from the farmer at Montaldeo small producers). It is a hilly land, still uncontaminated, Castle to Marquis Doria in 1659. The first large and protected by the boldness of its nature. plantations specialising in Cortese grapes began in Visitors get lost in the beauty and taste wines 1856 on the La Centuriona and La Toledana di Gavi along the Strada della Lomellina wine route. It’s a estates belonging to Marquis Cambiaso. In the totally overwhelming experience. The Gavi area 1800s, important wine-producing companies ➢ DECANTER PROMOTION DECANTER PROMOTION Alessandra Piubello’s Top Wines Bergaglio Nicola, Minaia, Gavi La Zerba Terrarossa, Gavi DOCG, DOCG, Piedmont Italy 2016 91 Piedmont, Italy 2016 89 £14 Enotria & Coe £15 Winetraders Fresh hints of citrus fruit, hawthorn Agile, direct and subtle in the followed by sea and cliff aromas. mouth with distinctive acidity Pulpy and spirited to the palate, traversed by an almost salty hint. the length demonstrates Juicy and thirst quenching, it incisiveness. Pronounced flavour develops an incisive taste, tense as and juicy drink. Drink 2017- 2023 a bow. Highly drinkable finale. Alcohol 12.5% Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13.% Broglia, La Meirana, Gavi DOCG, Lombardo Giordano, Vigne di Piedmont, Italy 2016 88 San Martino, Gavi DOCG, £16 Berkmann Winecellar Piedmont, Italy 2016 89 A classic interpreted with skill and £18 Winetraders measure, conceived to give soft Detail, intensity, definition. Peculiar and elegant pleasantness. Suitable style, structure brimming with rare for an international public, its finesse from its full and progressive finesse and caressing approach development, able to nurture a makes it good to enjoy. Drink persistence of surprising purity 2017-2023 Alc 13.5% making the sip literally contagious. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 12.5% La Ghibellina, Mainin, Gavi DOCG, Right: The Forte di Gavi stands sentinel over this adapts to water stress and is not difficult to deal Piedmont, Italy 2016 87 Tenuta La Giustiniana, frontier district between Piedmont and Liguria. with. The grapes have a thick skin and unmistakable £18 Winery Classic Montessora, Gavi DOCG, Above right: Gavi vineyards in Parodi Ligure flavour and are also good to eat. After careful Slow olfactory opening, outlining Piedmont, Italy 2016 89 selection, the Consortium opted for nine specific a subtle and delicate profile. The £23.99 Liberty Wines Ltd sprang up belonging to the Raggio, Serra, Sartorio clones suitable for enhancing the vine. tasty contrast of the steadfast and Vertical tension in the aromas, and Spinola families which accompanied the rise of full structure and the sharp mineral reminiscent of Mediterranean Cortese as a wine of international value. Characteristics freshness of the vibrant finale is herbs that return in an energetic The man who made the name of Gavi was Gavi has a tense, vertical, slender profile and a very distinct. Drink 2017-2023 and vibrant palate. The gustatory Vittorio Soldati. He enhanced the properties of particular freshness reminiscent of juicy citrus fruits, Alc 12.5% impulse is lively and continuous, Cortese produced in the area around Rovereto, a Mediterranean herbs and even salt makes its urging further tasting. Drink small village under Gavi administration, promoting occasional appearance. A truly inviting drink. To La Mesma, Etichetta Nera, 2017-2023 Alc 13% it as a slender, delicate wine with little alcohol arrive at this, however, it must be Gavi at its best Gavi DOCG, Piedmont, Italy content that was altogether flavoursome and of because this so very personal white wine, full of 2016 89 Valditerra Laura, Gavi, Gavi good character, pleasant to drink and fond to energy in its most intransigent and well-groomed £20 Raeburn Fine Wines DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2016 89 remember. Gavi was therefore one of the most form, runs the risk of falling into the most neutral Transparent aromatic spectrum. £14 N/A UK well-known and successful white wines in Italy in banality in an instant, especially without the most Composure is the key to Integral olfactory profile with the 1970s and ‘80s and went on to become an painstaking care in the vineyard and winery. Its acidity interpreting this wine. Calibre, floral, citrus and mineral notes. Its absolute must on international tables. The wine was is lively and peremptory: juicy, integral and tasty in measure, subtleness, rigour in the expressive purity is striking proclaimed DOCG in 1998 (DOC in 1974) and the the more inspired interpretations, seasoned with gustatory tension with a salty hint throughout the gustatory timeframe: Consortium was established in 1993. Captained by “Time brings out salty hints of wet subtle, well-tuned spicing (more vegetable here, that expands well. Refreshing at tasty energy, typical sharp Maurizio Montobbio, directed by Francesco more herbal there), its energy is not density, its the end. Drink 2017-2024 Alc 13% freshness, balanced until its lengthy Bergaglio and assisted by a team of young experts rocks and oysters, earth and spices, thickness is not strength. It is therefore an ideal white finale. Drink 2017-2023 Alc 13% (including the technical manager, Davide for both afternoon conversation and for the table. La Raia, Vigna della Madonnina, Ferrarese), this dynamic Consortium has been a splendid tasting tension…” The best selections are so clear, fresh and incisive Gavi DOCG Riserva, Piedmont, Villa Sparina, Monterotondo, Gavi responsible for several innovative projects, which that they can go from the wine bar to the table with Italy 2015 90 DOCG, Piedmont, Italy 2015 90 would need a whole article just to describe them. rare nonchalance. And there is no doubt about Gavi’s £23/£25 Passione Vino UK £43.28 FortyFive10 Just to name one: the Premio Gavi La Buona Italia flat and tired. In this area, however, it offers a surprisingly long life. Time brings out salty hints of Complex and articulate olfactory Dense, spicy aromas, a woody hint award, a virtuous example of promoting Italian peculiar personality, innate to this unique territory. wet rocks and oysters, earth and spices, a splendid range, a touch of acacia honey. The that frames the sip without values that goes beyond local pride to englobe a Always used as a mono-varietal in Gavi DOCG, it is tasting tension, salty, iodized persistence, proving gustatory structure is soft with blocking, enriching it with national context.