FavoriteThe Fashions FromInside: Milan Pg. 12 COUNTERFEIT SCENT BUST/2 KOOBA’S INVESTORS/2 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 18, 2007 • $2.00 List Sportswear Print Condition NEW YORK — Quirky prints and vivid colors were key runway trends on both sides of the Atlantic, and J. Crew’s Jenna Lyons was smart to get in on the act. The creative director is right on target with her spring collection, which is fi lled with fl irty little numbers like this paisley-print linen frock. For more, see page 8. After Nixing Sun Bid, Kellwood Could Face Shareholder Pressure By Whitney Beckett he heat on Kellwood Co. is expected Tto intensify. Following the $1.96 billion company’s rejection Wednesday of a $543 million bid by Sun Capital Securities Group LLC, analysts and consultants said the firm now has to prove to shareholders that it can turn around its operations and boost its lagging share price — and do it fast. The St. Louis-based company said in a statement Wednesday that Sun Capital’s $21 a share bid “significantly undervalues the strength of Kellwood’s expanded portfolio of brands and the See Kellwood, Page 13 PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 2 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM Kooba Partners With Private Equity Firm ontemporary luxury designer brand Kooba has a cessories line earlier in the year. new equity partner via Swander Pace Capital. As for the product exten- WWDTHURSDAY C Sportswear The private equity fi rm, which made an undis- sions, Held said the company closed investment in the women’s handbags, acces- started its women’s apparel line sories and apparel brand, is the majority stakehold- with leather jackets because the GENERAL er in the company. Kooba co-presidents Abbe Held “company was already working Kellwood Co.’s board has rejected Sun Capital Securities Group’s and Lynn Pincus, together with company founder with leather, so it was a natural 1 unsolicited offer to acquire the company for $543.9 million. Bonnie Held, will continue with the company and because it was something we Tiffany & Co. said it plans to roll out up to 70 stores in a new 2,000- they still retain stakes in the luxury brand. could do in-house.” 3 square-foot format with the working title of Tiffany & Co. Collections. “We wanted to bring in a partner to grow the In addition to apparel, the company. We need an infrastructure, additional company would like to expand EYE: London has been ablaze this week with celebrations leading up to capital and expertise to help us get to the next into footwear and even open 4 tonight’s Swarovski Fashion Rocks party at Royal Albert Hall. level,” said Pincus in a telephone interview. its own retail stores, accord- FASHION: Dresses ruled at Los Angeles Fashion Week, as designers delivered Paul Altman, a managing director at the invest- ing to Held. them in all ways, from slouchy and simple to draped and embellished. ment banking fi rm The Sage Group, which helped Pincus said the product is 6 Kooba fi nd its new partner, said the compa- sold in major department stores DENIM: Iconix Brand Group is rounding out its Rampage brand selection ny was selectively shopped at both poten- and in 500 specialty stores, to- 9 with a new denim collection to be made under license with 9.8 Jeans. tial strategic and fi nancial buyers, and taling 750 doors. The company While Esprit remains on the acquisition trail, the company said Roberto that Kooba executives felt Swander also is eyeing international dis- Cavalli isn’t in its sights and the Milan fi rm also denied it is in talks. best understood the brand and its tribution down the road. 11 potential points of distribution. Swander is a San Francisco- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 Founded in 1998, Kooba began based private equity buyout as a handbag fi rm. Earlier this firm. It declined comment, To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. A motorcycle [email protected], using the individual’s name. year, the company expanded into jacket from citing company policy. In ad- apparel. According to industry dition to Kooba, its specialty Kooba’s WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT sources, Kooba’s sales volume, apparel apparel and accessories in- ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. still primarily based on its hand- collection and vestments include swimwear VOLUME 194, NO. 83. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one bag collections, is expected to firm Raj Manufacturing, additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and the Elisha bag. three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance exceed $220 million this year. surf sandals company Reef Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Sources described the company’s growth rate in the Holdings and cold- and wet-weather gear maker Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive last four years as “extraordinary,” with the business Totes-Isotoner Corp., according to the fi rm. Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail quadrupling in volume. It also launched a men’s ac- — Vicki M. Young Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production 6 Arrested in Counterfeit Scent Case correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other By Julie Naughton Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA NEW YORK — Counterfeit handbags and apparel 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, have long been hot buttons in the news — now fra- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, grance is poised to join the ranks. BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR Six foreign nationals were arrested late CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR Tuesday in what is being billed as the fi rst crim- DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY inal counterfeit case involving fragrances in A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Manhattan, said sources close to the investigation. And it’s unlikely to be the last, said a source, add- ing the arrests are expected to be the fi rst in a se- ries of criminal seizures of fraudulent fragrances. New York police offi cers on In Brief Tuesday raided Price Right Price Right Perfume and Perfume and Watches, located Watches was raided. ● TRADE BILL MOVES AHEAD: A $56 billion spending bill that at 1205 Broadway, which was would increase funding for the Bush administration’s two trade- stocked with hundreds of bottles BEAUTY BEAT include additives such governing agencies and toughen enforcement of U.S. trade rem- of fragrance bearing the names as urine and antifreeze edy laws is headed to conference after the Senate passed it 75 of leading scent brands, including Armani, Ralph — fakes can pose a signifi cant public safety issue, to 19 Tuesday night. The bill will have to be reconciled with a Lauren, Chanel, Kenneth Cole, Liz Claiborne and said Bradley Schnur, president and chief operat- House measure that passed in July 281 to 42, just shy of the two- Davidoff. More than 600 bottles of fragrance, with ing offi cer of SES and a former assistant district thirds margin needed to override a veto. President Bush has a total retail value of $36,000, were identifi ed attorney in Brooklyn. “It’s a health issue, in addi- threatened to veto the measure because the spending blueprint as counterfeit and immediately seized, a police tion to hurting companies in the pocket,” he said. for fi scal year 2008 exceeds his budget request for the agen- spokesman said Wednesday. Concerning the shop in question, “We’ve been cies the bill would fund, including the Commerce and Justice Two members of L’Oréal’s corporate security here on 10 separate occasions and made under- Departments and the U.S. Trade Representative’s offi ce. staff were on site to identify fraudulent fragranc- cover buys, and each time the items have proven es. Both declined comment. to be counterfeit,” said Ficke. That information ● DONNA HIRE: Donna Karan International has named Ellen Another source estimated the store’s total in- was shared with the NYPD, which then obtained Fine to be vice president of Donna Karan Collection acces- ventory — much of which will need to undergo a search warrant for the shop. sories, a new post. Fine had been vice president of sales for testing by the respective companies involved The next step? “To try to determine how this Prada and Miu Miu handbags and accessories. She joined — had a value of close to $3 million at retail. The merchandise was brought into the U.S.,” said Prada in 2000 as senior sales manager of Prada women’s hand- source added that more than $100,000 in cash was Ficke. Most of the counterfeit items are believed to bags and accessories. At DKI, Fine reports to Michelle Sanders, also seized. be manufactured in China or Dubai, said Schnur. senior vice president of Donna Karan Collection accessories. Each of the six men arrested was charged with China has long been the number-one source DKI is making a renewed push in accessories, with launches to trademark counterfeiting, a police spokesman of counterfeit goods of all types to the U.S. be presented during the January market. said. The names of the suspects and their ages had Counterfeit and pirated goods from China ac- not been released as of press time. counted for 81 percent of the total value of all ● NEW FOUNDATION: Brooks Brothers has formed the Golden Offi cers from the Midtown South precinct, who merchandise seized in the U.S. last year, worth Fleece Foundation, a nonprofi t organization that will provide fi - made the arrests, declined comment at the scene. $125.5 million, according to the Customs and nancial, developmental and logistical support to local and national Martin Ficke, former special agent in charge of Border Protection bureau. charities involved in health issues, the arts and education. Brooks Immigration and Customs Enforcement/Department Bros. has long partnered with such organizations as Make-A-Wish of Homeland Security, and chief of operations for Foundation, Thanks & Giving and St. Jude Children’s Research SES Resources International, a consulting fi rm, EU to China: Ease Import Policies Hospital. But with the Golden Fleece Foundation, the retailer noted that most arrests of this type involve civil liti- GENEVA — The European Union called in a World will be able to spearhead philanthropic efforts and formalize the gation, but this particular case could be tried fi rst Trade Organization forum this week for China to giving process. Managing director Emilie Antonetti, a 10-year vet- as a criminal matter, then as a civil issue. scrap its alleged cumbersome, and discriminatory, eran of Brooks Bros. and its parent Retail Brand Alliance, will Ficke is working with the Fragrance approval procedures for imported cosmetics. head the foundation. “The Golden Fleece Foundation is a new Foundation, a number of leading fragrance com- Brussels claims China’s import procedures dif- venture that I have looked forward to announcing for a very long panies and the NYPD to provide assistance in fer from those that apply for domestic cosmetics time,” said Claudio Del Vecchio, chairman and chief executive of- anticounterfeiting matters, he said. “We’re doing that do not fall under the special use category. fi cer of Brooks Bros. “I believe it will grow to exemplify the best this because the government doesn’t have the re- “For imported products, a multitude approval of what Brooks Brothers stands for.” sources to do this themselves,” he said, another procedure is still compulsory, leading to extensive reason most cases of this type end up being tried workload, misallocation of personnel and fi nancial ● EYEWEAR DEAL: Costume National said Wednesday that it civilly rather than criminally. Criminal prosecu- resources and delays in product introduction to has inked a licensing deal for eyewear with niche Italian man- tions require a higher standard of evidence than the market,” the EU said in a written communica- ufacturer Cult. The new line of sunglasses and prescription civil prosecutions. “So we work with them to help tion requesting comments from China. frames will launch in January. Prior to the agreement, Costume build a case, working with former cops and agents Brussels also argued this measure “is likely to National licensed its eyewear production to Italy’s Marcolin who know how to conduct an investigation and invalidate China’s WTO commitments” and called on SpA. Costume National declined to provide sales forecasts. how to work within the rules of evidence.” Beijing to unify the notifi cation currently in force for Cult, based in Padua, is a start-up that recently inked a licens- Because fragrances are applied to the skin imported and domestic (non-special use) cosmetics. ing deal for eyewear with Thakoon. — and some counterfeits have been shown to — John Zarocostas WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 3 WWD.COM Tiffany’s Goal: Smaller Stores, Affordable Jewels By Sophia Chabbott NEW YORK — Tiffany & Co. has set an ambitious agenda, highlighted by a new, smaller store format to showcase accessibly priced women’s jewelry. The 2,000-square-foot store model unveiled Wednesday to securities analysts and investors during a breakfast at the week-old Wall Street unit is called Tiffany & Co. Collections. The company plans to open 70 of the shops, which will feature women’s jewelry ranging from slightly less than $100 to $15,000. The concept will not include the engagement rings or high-priced statement jewelry for which Tiffany is famed. In the past fi ve years, engage- ment jewelry in the U.S. has grown at a rate of 20 percent annually. The fi rst Collections location is slated to bow in fall 2008 but hasn’t been identifi ed. Three to fi ve Collections stores are to open each year, starting in 2009, eventually reaching a total of 70. “We believe there is a much larger Tiffany universe,” Michael J. Kowalski, chairman and chief executive offi cer, said in an interview. “[The stores have] a more modern design that will allow us to showcase jewelry, so you can interact with it and explore. It’s simply a new way of looking A rendering of Tiffany & Co. Collections. at Tiffany.” The luxury jeweler has been on a mission to show customers its diverse product range, from tabletop to Collections shops will be better able silver jewelry. It is a luxury pioneer in lower Manhattan to highlight styles that often get lost in and also intends to develop its watch business. In Tiffany’s larger stores, executives said. 2002, Tiffany launched a 5,000-square-foot store con- The company comes out with more than cept that brings in sales of $1,000 per square foot. 1,000 new styles a year. Starting in 2009, the company plans to open fi ve to Tiffany & “We want a consumer to go seamlessly seven of these full-line stores until reaching a total Co.’s Frank to all our Tiffany touch points, from the of 100. There are now 68 Tiffany stores in the U.S. Gehry- stores, to the fl agship to the newly rede- Kowalski predicted that the Collections shops designed signed Web site,’’ said chief marketing of- would bring in more than $1,000 per square foot. rings and ficer Caroline Naggiar. “It’s a store that “We anticipate the stores to be more profi t- diamond women will love....It’s about the different able,” he said. “The gross margin is higher, capital pendants are needs and moods of a woman.” expenditure will be more effi cient. It’s a smaller just some The strategy fi lls a niche for Tiffany. Silver inventory investment without engagement rings.” Michael J. items that jewelry appeals to teenagers and consumers Kowalski will sold in their 20s and tabletop entices newlyweds, at the new but the company often experiences a hiatus format. among customers. Those who can eventually af- We believe there is a much ford statement jewelry return while those who “ cannot dwindle. Accessible, in-fashion jewelry larger Tiffany universe….It’s helps to bridge that gap, making the brand more appealing to a broader demographic. simply a new way of looking at “This is an issue we’ve been dealing with, Tiffany. [the cross between] aspirational and accessible,” Kowalski said. “It’s something we’ve been ap- ”— Michael J. Kowalski, Tiffany & Co. proaching for years.” A category that the company admits is “underde- The decision by Tiffany to focus on more accessibly priced veloped” is the watch business. Now it wants to be jewelry is notable because several jewelry companies known equally for its watches as it is for its six-prong are pushing high jewelry and rare pieces that sell engagement ring. Watches comprise 2 to 3 percent from the hundreds of thousands of dollars to the of sales. In the past few years, Tiffany began re- millions. Chopard, Graff, De Grisogono, Leviev building its watch business by redesigning the and others all claim that the consumer demand for Mark and Atlas collections and by introduc- these pieces is seemingly unquenchable, consider- ing the Tiffany Grand collection. ing supply of the rare gemstones and the labor that “We believe we can stand up to any Swiss goes into the pieces. watch brand in the world,” Kowalski said. Tiffany’s statement jewelry segment has piec- The company has plans to attend the es that fall under this category, but it is not plac- watch fairs in Basel, Switzerland, in April ing such pieces in all or even most of its stores. to increase its wholesale network, going Statement jewelry is shown in the fl agships after rivals such as Cartier. Watches are and is brought to clients upon request. the only category that the fi rm is looking to The Collections stores will have a modern, wholesale. Wholesale comprises 2 percent of the airy sensibility, but retain a distinctly Tiffany brand’s revenues. Kowalski named the subcategory of aesthetic. Designed by an in-house architecture ladies’ diamond watches as an obvious area for growth considering team, there are freestanding and wall cases the brand’s synchronicity with diamonds. made of wood, glass and metal to exhibit jew- To back up its watch push, Tiffany will beef up its marketing and elry that will be merchandised according to advertising of timepieces. trend, not simply by category as in other Tiffany Internationally, Tiffany has plans to expand its store count in China stores. Jewelry will also be hung on displays so and Europe. It is considering increasing its presence in India, where it has shoppers can get a feel for what it would look like when worn. a few points of sale. Flat screens will decorate the walls of the Collections stores and the company will The brand’s European division is growing at a faster rate than the U.S., with its hire artists to create content based on the season. London store the most profi table. “We wanted to have some fun with this,” said Beth O. Canavan, the fi rm’s executive “It was a long, slow road in Europe and now it’s all coming together,” Kowalski vice president. “We want to bring [the jewelry] to life.” said. “I thought I’d be retiring before we opened another store in Europe.”

The reason for a possible European fl oat, the paper said, is the business is focus- ing on the Continent for its future sales. As reported, Tommy Hilfi ger inked an agree- Fresh Reports Emerge of Hilfi ger Float ment last year with French footballer Thierry Henry for a men’s capsule collection. A fl otation of Hilfi ger was likely from the moment Apax bought the American LONDON — Apax Partners, which owns 80 percent of Tommy Hilfiger Corp., report- fashion brand in May 2006, given private equity fi rms traditionally seek to sell or edly has retained Credit Suisse and Citigroup to study a European float of the busi- fl oat a company within three to fi ve years of buying it. ness, possibly in London. While a Hilfi ger IPO in the near future would be sooner than that time frame, Apax offi cials here and in New York did not return phone calls Wednesday, and investors stressed that even though Apax might be asking banks to bid for the busi- Fred Gehring, chief executive offi cer of Hilfi ger, was unreachable for comment ness, that doesn’t mean an offering is imminent. about the report in The Daily Telegraph here. Indeed, London-based investors have said a listing could not realistically take Although original reports said the Hilfi ger business could be valued up to $3 billion, place before six months, as time was needed to evaluate pitches, fi x bankers’ fees including debt, the Telegraph said Wednesday the fi gure could be as high as $4 billion. and prepare potential investors for a listing. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM Warm Up EYE SCOOP London sure knows how to pre-party — the town has been DANCE WITH ME: Trust Ralph Rucci to elevate the ablaze this week with celebrations leading up to tonight’s ballet costume — usually the terrain of stretchy Swarovski Fashion Rocks extravaganza at the Royal Albert Hall. Lycra leotards and frilly tutus — to high art, literally. On Tuesday, Matthew Williamson welcomed guests, “It’s really an haute couture project,” including Thandie Newton, Francesca Versace, Yasmin insists Rucci of his latest endeavor, designing Le Bon, Leah Wood, Christopher Bailey, Lady Gabriella the on-stage attire for the American Ballet Windsor and Katie Leung, to London’s Design Museum, Theatre’s season opener, “A Musical Portrait of where the retrospective, “Matthew Williamson — 10 Chuck Close.” Years in Fashion,” is running until Jan. 31. In fact, he has found that Barbara Matera “I was hanging neon poles until 6:30 this evening,” Studio, which produces the company’s costumes, said Williamson. “I am a real perfectionist.” Christopher is not unlike a fully functioning atelier. “There Across town that same night, Sir Philip Green hosted Bailey and were almost nonexistent corrections to be made Charlotte Sarkozy in a black-tie dinner and fashion show at Annabel’s to Matthew when I saw their work,” Rucci marvels. a Ralph Lauren top showcase Kate Moss’ Christmas clothing collection Williamson and Gucci pants. for Topshop, which drew the likes of Daphne A costume Guinness, Amanda Harlech, Naomi Campbell, Elle designed by Ralph Macpherson, Jade Jagger, Sadie Frost and Chrissie Rucci for ABT. Hynde. Grace Jones made an appearance, and even sang her classics after the show. Over at Harrods, Keren Craig and Georgina Chapman hosted a party in the store’s Rococo Ladurée tearoom to fete their spring Marchesa collection with help from Jasmine Guinness, Harvey Weinstein, Erin O’Connor, Tamara Mellon and Olympia Scarry. The evening doubled as a family reunion: Both Craig and Chapman’s mothers, Bobbie Hollier and Caroline Wonfor, respectively, looked on as Craig’s brother, Alex Ward, a magician, entertained the crowd with card tricks. At Christie’s on Bond Street, London’s artists and their supporters, such as Amber Nuttall, Scarry Erin O’Connor and Princess Michael of Kent, turned out in force for an event to raise money in aid of Parkinson’s disease. Peter Blake, Juergen Teller, Marc Quinn, Damien Hirst, Gary Hume, Rachel Whiteread and Sam Taylor-Wood all created — or donated — works that raised $1 million for The Parkinson’s Appeal for Deep Brain Stimulation. Londoners aren’t the only Europeans who know how to party, though — a sizable group of Francophiles Rucci, who only met with Chuck Close after gathered at the French Embassy in New York to fete he had already designed the costumes, was interior designer Jacques Grange, who was nominated as Thandie largely inspired by Philip Glass’ score, which he a Chevalier de la Légion Newton describes as “rather romantic” for the minimalist d’Honneur and is about to composer. The three male and three female begin revamping The Mark hotel. dancers start out with “almost ecclesiastical,” Babette Charlotte Sarkozy (sister-in-law “monolithic” and “sculptural” costumes made Fribourg of French President Nicolas), from heavy black duchesse satin. Over the course Anh Duong, Babette Fribourg, Zac of the performance, they strip down to black Posen and Jacqueline Schnabel mesh costumes, exploring “blatant sexuality,” wandered through the elegant according to Rucci. mansion, formerly the home of Hidden in the large black ballgowns is a bit the Payne Whitney clan, admiring of a surprise for art fans: Rucci has had a Close the gilded and mirrored Venetian self-portrait embroidered on interior panels, so room and the Alexander Calder the audience will catch glimpses of his face as mobile on the second fl oor. It was the dancers move. a truly multiculti evening at the A dance fan himself, Rucci would be happy embassy — the guest of honor was to work on another ballet. “I would love to work French, the meal was Italian and, with Pina Bausch,” he says, referring to the by the end of the night, it was the legendary German choreographer. “I even took Keren Craig in Americans who shut down the Georgina out a full-page ad, saying, ‘Will you marry me?’” Marchesa and place, smoking and drinking as Chapman in He has yet to receive a response. “But isn’t it Jacques Grange Harvey Weinstein. “Guantanamera,” of all things, Marchesa. better that way?” wonders Rucci. played in the background. Grin and Bare It Karl Lagerfeld on a shoot in “Lagerfeld Confi dential.” hose who can’t make the trek to the Great Wall of China for Fendi’s fashion extravaganza Ton Friday can still get their Karl kicks in New York, starting Wednesday, when Rodolphe Marconi’s documentary “Lagerfeld Confi dential” opens at Film Forum. The young director spent two years following the designer, capturing moments both very public (Lagerfeld escorting Nicole Kidman down the red carpet during Chanel’s paparazzi- themed show in 2004) and very private (sketching quietly at night in his offi ce, sans signature sunglasses). Marconi talked with WWD about convincing Chanel to let him shoot, dressing for a meeting chez Lagerfeld and getting the designer to kiss and tell.

WWD: What made you want to make this fi lm? Rodolphe Marconi: I always said if I make a documentary, it’s going to be a portrait; who is for me the most interesting and funny person in France, and I thought about Karl. I loved him for 10 years.

WWD: Was it diffi cult to get him to do the project? R.M.: I called [the Chanel press offi ce] and they told me, “Sorry, but we have no time for you.” I hate when someone says no. The day after, I called back, and after three months they called me and said, “You have lunch with Karl tomorrow at his house.” So I went to his house him would say all day, “I’m tired, oh it’s so diffi cult.” He never did that. He always wants to midday, I was a little bit stressed. All night I try all my clothes on and I don’t know what I’m give you the feeling everything is light, everything is easy. going to wear to meet Karl. In the end, you always fi nish with jeans and a pullover. WWD: In the fi lm, you ask him about his sexual orientation. Were you nervous? WWD: And did he agree right off the bat? R.M.: In France all the journalists told me, “Oh, it’s strange because you are very nervous,” and R.M.: We stayed fi ve hours and I left the house at 7 at night. And I said, “OK, bye-bye,” and he said, I always answered them, “Sorry, but I am one of the fi rst people to ask him this question.” Karl “But when do you want to begin?” I didn’t have any producer. But when Karl says yes, you begin. has a certain age and, if he’s famous or not famous, when people are older than you, you cannot ask some questions so private. He never spoke about that, so I was very afraid, because if you WWD: What surprised you the most about him while you were fi lming? ask something and you’re not very cool, he can stop everything the day after. I didn’t want to R.M.: In two years I never heard him speak in a bad mood with somebody, never. He works all put him in a situation, because he always respected me a lot, so I wanted to respect him. the time, but you never have the impression he’s working. A lot of people who would work like — Emily Holt FRENCH EMBASSY PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; NEWTON BY EAMONN MCCORMACK/WIREIMAGE; STEVE EICHNER; NEWTON BY PHOTOS BY FRENCH EMBASSY PARTY OF THE DESIGNER AND ABT TIM JENKINS; RUCCI SKETCH COURTESY BY PARTIES OTHER LONDON RHARVEY WEINSTEINeinventioJANE ELFERS MACKEY J. MCDONALD TORY BURCH MOHAN MURJANI SHIREEN EL KHATIB STEFANI GREENFIELD RALPH LAUREN MARK LEE RISHADn TOBACCOWALA

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Pants may be making a comeback, but in Los Angeles, dresses still rule. Designers delivered them in all ways, from slouchy and simple to draped and embellished.

Flow With It Juan Carlos Obando: After a week Juan Kevan Hall Whitley Kros chock-full of casual contemporary Carlos or slinky red-carpet looks, it was Obando refreshing to see Juan Carlos Obando’s chic, beautifully constructed dresses. Shown as an installation in an airy Century City restaurant, some of the 13 drapy garments — which Obando created sans pattern-maker or seamstress assistance — featured sleeves that fluttered over the shoulders, while others were adorned with silk roping that twisted to resemble tree roots. The palette was rich and the vibe was sophisticated, which could be just what his elegant ladies will be looking for come spring.

Kevan Hall: Pre-fashion show performances aren’t always welcome, but the African dance troupe that opened Kevan Hall’s spring lineup was as charming as the looks that followed. Hall worked a Serengeti theme via Masai-inspired beaded embellishments and a burnt-desert palette on fluid silk gowns, blouses and a few tailored pieces. Zebra- and leopard-print caftans added oomph, but never at the expense of the grown- up sophistication Hall’s known for.

Whitley Kros: What would a Seventies Cheryl Tiegs wear if she lived in L.A.’s Silver Lake neighborhood today? Sophia Banks and Marissa Ribisi’s debut collection for Whitley Kros would certainly take her from work to the hipster dive bar down the LOS street in style. Their simple button- back blouses in bright pink added punch to pleat-front skirts, while ANGELES slouchy T-shirt dresses and oversize cardigans — some featuring original spring ’08 prints by Ribisi’s husband, musician Beck — looked comfortable and cool,

PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND DONATO SARDELLA GIANNONI AND DONATO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY if not groundbreaking. more from the shows... Jesse Kamm Gregory Dina Coco Elsie Jenny Parkinson Bar-el Johnson Katz Han Couture

Ecoganik

Jesse Kamm: Polished and pretty, Jesse Kamm’s full Dina Bar-el: Dina Bar-el’s candy-colored shiny silk skirts and T-shirt dresses in whimsical button-and- gowns were not quite up to red-carpet standards, but bow handprints paired nicely with simple linen halter many of the bias-cut dresses would be great for prom numbers that looked demure yet sexy. or a Junior League ball.

Gregory Parkinson: Easy, breezy and a little earthy Lotta Stensson: There was nothing new about Lotta was the order of the day at Gregory Parkinson, where Stensson’s fi tted, bejeweled caftans and other gauzy layered silk tanks and slipdresses — some with glam gear, but it’s still good for girls looking to make a asymmetric hems and tie-dye details — looked fresh, splashy poolside statement. though at times he went too far into hippie territory. Coco Johnson: With references that spanned from prim Ecoganik: Even non-granola girls could appreciate Victorian to Fifties bombshell to modern-day sassy, Genevieve Cruz’s Ecoganik collection, full of soft, easy it was hard to discern Coco Johnson’s message, but dresses and airy separates that are, of course, there was a handful of pretty silk and lace dresses in all organic. the mix.

Elsie Katz Couture: Donna H. Baxter’s fairy tale-inspired Jenny Han: Jenny Han’s slew of brightly printed short- frocks decorated in ruffl es, rosettes and glitter looked shorts and little minidresses was as repetitive as the more like dress-up play than reality merch. models’ display of gams. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 7 WWD.COM Malandrino’s Building Blocks

By Sharon Edelson The boutique at Tsum. atherine Malandrino is getting a new Chome. The 6,000-square-foot, two-level struc- ture on the corner of La Cienega and Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles will house a new retail concept, Maison Malandrino, opening in March and featuring the de- signer’s two collections, Malandrino and Catherine Malandrino; a new line of men’s made-to-order eveningwear; a restaurant; fl oral studio, and library. Bernard Aidan, Malandrino’s husband and the company’s chief executive offi cer, declined to discuss sales projections for the maison, but said typical Malandrino stores do about $1,500 per square foot in sales. On the eve of her 10th anniversary in business, Malandrino is shoring up her house. To facilitate an aggressive expan- sion plan, the designer is fi lling key man- agement roles that had been left vacant while she and Aidan ran the company themselves. “Now we’re opening our roof to a management team to help us realize a plan,” Malandrino said. “I feel it’s a new step in our expansion.” The company did $60 million in retail sales in 2006 and has seen double-digit in- creases since, Aidan said. The wholesale business is larger than retail and growing by 40 percent each season, however he wouldn’t divulge the exact fi gures. by The Venetian. The store The designer also is forging ahead on the international front. Berna will have a bigger selection of Cathe rd Aidan “We have a store in the Saint- Germain des Prés [district in rine Ma , long dresses and pieces that and Lau landrino Paris],” Malandrino said. “We’d like to open a second store ei- rent Le are more luxurious, she said. vasseur ther in Paris or the South of France.” . The company operates Meanwhile, a 600-square-foot shop-in-shop was scheduled boutiques in SoHo and the to open today at Tsum in Moscow through a partnership with Meatpacking District in New the Mercury Group, which plans to unveil a second boutique York, and in Manhasset and in Russia in St. Petersburg next year. The Moscow shop will East Hampton, N.Y. A unit on be celebrated with a runway show of Malandrino’s spring Sunset Boulevard in L.A. will collection Friday during Moscow Fashion Week. continue to operate once the In Japan, Malandrino plans to open three stores over the maison opens. The designer also next three years in partnership with PMD Japan, which is has set her sights on Madison exclusively distributing the Catherine Malandrino collec- Avenue and said she’s not averse tion there, beginning with the spring line. to locating above 72nd Street. Malandrino’s plans to unveil four new stores per year “Uptown in Manhattan we could in the U.S. and Europe include re-creating the Maison open just an accessories boutique Malandrino in other cities. “It’s possible to replicate or a Malandrino boutique” if the this concept in other places,” she said. “We’ve started maison doesn’t pan out, she said. to look for large spaces.” Other American cities being target- In the U.S., the company is fi nalizing the plans for a ed for stores include Chicago, Miami, 3,000-square-foot boutique that will open in Las Vegas Dallas and Houston.

O

N in February at the Palazzo, which is being developed E Maison Malandrino in L.A. will T

N E offer valet service and European C

A Y fare in the restaurant and adjoining

A

L A terrace. “We thought about how we T

Y B would live in a home,” Malandrino

O T said. “We want to create a very homey O

H P and relaxing environment.” The house, which has a garden and fi replace, was previously occupied by an architect. Laurent Levasseur, formerly ceo of Yves Saint Laurent of America, was hired as chief operating officer of Catherine Malandrino last summer. One of his initia- tives is to develop licensees for eyewear, swimwear, lingerie and casual shoes. The designer continues to build her accessories business with a full collection of shoes and handbags. A line of fantasy jewelry in gold and silver with semiprecious stones is being developed in France with prices ranging from $500 to $2,000. “Fur is an extension we’re thinking about,” Malandrino said. “I’m very interest- ed in skin care and fragrance and anything that helps a woman feel more beautiful. I would have to fi nd the right partner.” There has been speculation Catherine Malandrino might be sold to one of the many private equity players getting into the fashion game, but Aidan said he and Malandrino would prefer an investor to an outright sale. “If someone is able to join our vision, we will consider it,” he said. “We’ve been very solicited. We’re certainly open to talking to different people. We’ll look at any opportunities.” If all this weren’t enough, Malandrino is Malandrino’s new working on a book about her fi rst decade as a home on La Cienega. designer, which will be published by Assouline in time for the opening of the maison. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM Fashion Scoops Bright and Shiny WANG GOES WEST: Vera Wang has signed a lease for a bridal boutique at 8447 Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles on the same block as Marc by Marc Jacobs. The 3,600-square-foot store, Wang’s fi rst NEW YORK — According to freestanding unit outside of New York, is expected to open in fall Mickey Drexler, “Style and 2008 and will feature 12-foot ceilings and carry the full bridal line, quality are the rules to live by as well as fragrance, shoes and tabletop items.Wang plans to open every day” — not to mention her fi rst ready-to-wear store on Mercer Street in New York’s SoHo, also bowing next year. A spokeswoman said a rtw store on the West trends. So for spring, J. Crew’s Coast is “a possibility.” creative director, Jenna Lyons, zeroed in on several key runway ON TARGET: At Morton’s on Tuesday night, In Style and CFDA hosted a looks, focusing on easy shift party to celebrate the latest Fashion Targets Breast Cancer T-shirt, as well dresses in vibrant colors and as the expansion of charity-meets-fashion offerings on Net-a-porter.com. Though their ranks are smaller than in New York, Los Angeles CFDA lots of quirky prints, also adding members such as Magda Berliner, Trina Turk, John Whitledge, Kevan Hall, a touch of shine with cropped Gregory Parkinson and Laura and Kate Mulleavy made pit stops during a sequined jackets. As for the night of several competing parties. “I’ve been a proud CFDA member for expanded accessories lineup, three years,” said Berliner. “Got in the same day as P. Diddy.” Always willing to get dolled up for a fashion event, a far bigger slew satin two-toned sandals and of starlets turned up in jewel-toned frocks, including January Jones, Zoe beachy fl ats were highlights, Saldana, Ever Carradine, Linda Cardellini, Rebecca Gayheart, Leslie Bibb, and the colorful plastic jewelry Kathleen Roberston, Minka Kelly and Andrea Bowen, who said, “Shopping looked fun and cheerful. is the most painless way to do charity.”

Leslie Bibb and Rebecca Ever Linda Gayheart Carradine Cardellini

JUST SUPER: Having a dozen major models open the Louis Vuitton show earlier this month in nurse outfi ts created a striking image — so much so that Vuitton creative director Marc Jacobs is said to have invited certain runway regulars back to do Vuitton’s spring advertising. Vuitton lately has featured celebrities such as Scarlett Johansson and Uma Thurman in its ads, but also has used famous models such as Gisele Bündchen and Eva Herzigova. A Vuitton spokesman said Wednesday that he could not yet confi rm details of the campaign.

SIR PAUL’S MOVIE NIGHT: Sir Paul Smith decided to pull out the stops on Tuesday night, when he got to spend “one whole night in Los Angeles” en route from Japan. “There are so many parties in L.A., I thought Mr. Smith should do something a bit different,” the designer said. So the cinephile decided to transform the parking lot of his Melrose Avenue store into a screening room, and introduced the Brit cult hit “Withnail & I,” which he has seen fi ve times. Smith has screened the Joy Division documentary “Control” at his Nottingham shop, and the feature “24 Hour Party People” at his Tokyo store. Taking in the movie was a diverse crowd including Andy Warhol actress Terry Terebe, music producer Jerry Leiber, accessories designers Tarina Tarantino and Brigette Romanek, Guinevere Van Seenus and a trio of dark-haired actresses: Michelle Hicks, Ivana Milicevic and Jennifer Tilly, who said, “My old boyfriend was English, so I’ve seen parts of this movie a few times.”

Jennifer Tilly

Michelle Hicks Sir Paul Smith TARGET PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE; SIR PAUL PARTY BY TODD WILLIAMSON BY PARTY SIR PAUL TYLER BOYE; PHOTOS BY TARGET PHOTOS BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 9 WWD.COM Denim Report Ruby’s Ogle Follows Up With Signature Line By Nina Jones LONDON — After launching a collection of skinny and boyfriend-fit jeans under the Ruby name last year, London-based designer Kate Ogle de- cided there was a more mature denim customer that her edgy brand hadn’t captured. Rather than dilute Ruby’s offer, Ogle opted to launch a separate brand of easier-fi tting jeans under the Katherine Ogle label that will make its debut as a capsule collection at Bloomingdale’s New York fl ag- ship in January. “I think [women in their 30s] would pay anything to buy a good pair of jeans,” Ogle said. “They don’t necessarily want really trendy fi ts, but they don’t want jeans shapes that accentuate the hips.” Ogle’s four-piece collection of high-waisted jeans in slim, cropped, boot-cut and wide-leg fi ts are made with fl at denim Styles as opposed to fabric with a slubby weave to achieve a slim from silhouette and 2 percent elastane for stretch. the new “They’re cut to create a narrow thigh and give you a Katherine waist, but you can still move in them to pick up your child,” Ogle Ogle said. denim The collection will retail from $140 for cropped jeans collection. to $175 for a wide-leg style. It’s a slightly lower price point than the Ruby collection, which is priced as high as $200 for Although her business is based in the U.K., Ogle said she chose to a pair of PVC jeans with gold studs, a limited edition piece launch Katherine Ogle in the U.S. because there was more of an ap- set to launch at Lord & Taylor. petite for newness in denim there. Washes in the Katherine Ogle line are kept to dark, over- “The U.K. can be a bit slow to pick up new denim brands,” Ogle dyed navy; washed-out gray, and a faded blue. Detailing is min- said. “The market is a lot smaller [in the U.K.] and in the U.S., choice imal, too. Back pockets are stitched with orchids in colors that comes through designers, unlike in the U.K. where it comes from the tone with the denim, some of which are embellished with a few high street.” crystals, a motif inspired by Ogle’s honeymoon in Kenya, where She will launch the line in the U.K. through her Web site, rubylon- the designer was given an orchid leaf with her name etched in don.com, and plans to wholesale in the U.K. next fall. Although Ogle gold. There is also a small green and gold Katherine Ogle logo declined to give sales predictions for the line, she said she aims for on the back pocket and silk stitching inside the jeans. it to be sold in 20 doors worldwide within a year. The designer, whose As with Ruby, which is sold at stores such as Intermix, company also designs and produces private label denim for Barneys, Madison and Lord & Taylor in the U.S., the jeans have inspira- Paul Costello and Irregular Choice, plans to introduce printed shirts tional phrases stitched into the lining. Labels in the fi rst col- and jersey tops into the line for next fall, as well. lection are printed with the words: “It’s in the stillness that we “With Katherine Ogle it’s not just denim, it’s more eclectic,” she fi nd ourselves.” said. “I’m creating a look for a whole woman.” Rampage Rolls Into Denim for Spring WeSC Opens in Paris By Ross Tucker carrying for the last few years, “The consumer is very fa- PARIS — Swedish denim and streetwear label WeSC, or We Are they’re not going to be carry- miliar with the Rampage name; The Superlative Conspiracy, has arrived in the City of Light. NEW YORK — Iconix Brand ing,” Cole said. that’s a staple in their closets The Stockholm-based brand opened its fi rst fl agship here Group is rounding out the offer- The 9.8 Jeans fi rm was among and it has been a dressier prod- last month. ings of its Rampage brand with seven or eight companies that uct,” Gellin said. “What we be- “We’re a street fashion brand built for life after skating,” the introduction of a full denim were interested in develop- lieve she’ll get excited about is said WeSC president Greger Hagelin, an avid skater who collection. that she’ll have the opportunity founded the brand in 2000. “Paris is a key market. The store Iconix has signed a 10-year Petra Nemcova to have [Rampage] on the casual is the ideal window to show the brand’s concept.” licensing agreement with 9.8 will be the face of side, as well.” Located at 13 Rue Tiquetonne, just off Paris’ denim mecca Jeans, a subsidiary of Land the brand for the Gellin said the initial launch Rue Etienne Marcel, the 970-square-foot store fi ts in with the ‘N Sea Inc., to develop the second year. will consist of about 20 styles, neighborhood’s youthful streetwear and denim shops, vin- Rampage-branded denim col- from skinny fits to wide-leg tage stores and trendy bars. lection, which will launch in de- trouser styles. Basic styles will WeSC’s men’s and women’s wear lines occupy the main partment stores such as Macy’s retail for $48, and more fashion- fl oor, and Nike SB, Nike’s skateboarding-inspired collection, and Dillard’s for spring. forward products will retail for is displayed on the shop’s mezzanine. Neil Cole, chairman and $58 to $68. chief executive officer of The wide-sweeping selection An interior view of Iconix, said in an interview that is designed to meet the needs of the Paris store. Rampage has offered denim pe- different regions of the U.S. For riodically throughout its more instance, Gellin said West Coast than 20-year history. With retail- retailers have found more suc- ers looking for strong national cess with skinny fi ts while wide- brands and denim styles run- leg styles have failed to gain ning the gamut from wide-leg much traction. to skinny styles, Cole said it was “Different parts of the coun- a promising time to introduce try are selling different leg denim as a new brand staple. openings,” he said. “It’s not a “There’s some uncertainty in nationwide thing where just ev- the denim market,” Cole said. eryone is selling skinnys or “There’s a lack of one major wide legs.” trend....I think Rampage has a Gellin sees depart- point of view. It’s a wonderful ment stores welcom-

time in an interesting denim ▲ ing a strong brand cycle to come into the market in A back-pocket with a solid mar- The denim-heavy summer collection features Japanese a big way.” detail from the line. keting platform stretch selvage denim and organic denim lines. Prices range Cole is also hoping to take behind it. from 100 euros, or $141 at current exchange, to 195 euros, or advantage of the desire among ing Rampage “We believe $276. For the warmer weather, WeSC will introduce vivid col- major retailers to stock their denim, he said. the major depart- ors such as fuchsia and yellow in slim fi ts and will continue shelves with brands that are ex- Kirk Gellin, ment store is look- its No Denim line of velvet pants. clusive to their stores. Cole said president and ceo ing to have legitimate To help lure hipsters, the store has a gallery in its base- he sees retailers parting with of Land ‘N Sea, said brands in their stores ment that will display works by young artists inspired by some brands, leaving room for an the company made and also nationally ad- street and urban culture. established name to expand. The the investment to produce vertised brands wherever they “Paris is a tough market,” said Hagelin, who noted the Rampage brand brings in about samples of the line before meet- can, and Iconix does a wonder- brand’s key markets include Scandinavia and the U.S. “But $300 million a year at retail. ing with Iconix. Gellin said ful job promoting the Rampage street-inspired fashion is still in high demand.” “Better department stores, they were able to show Iconix brand,” Gellin said. WeSC, which is sold in 20 countries, counts 10 signature they feel there’s a huge oppor- management some 200 styles Petra Nemcova is in her stores worldwide, including fl agships in Stockholm, New tunity for Rampage because a complete with rivet details and second year as the face of York, Berlin, Seoul and Los Angeles. lot of the brands they’ve been Rampage packaging. Rampage. — Emilie Marsh 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Contemporary’s Fall Favorites

By Julee Greenberg Milly’s Vince’s cheetah- leather The contemporary category has been booming at retail print jacket funnel for the last few seasons, so what does that customer want at Bergdorf jacket at for fall? Well, all the key trends, from novelty jackets and Goodman. Shopbop. high-waisted jeans to sequin tops and beaded dresses. Key labels include Milly, Vince, Alice + Olivia and Paige. Here, some of the season’s best-selling items so far: HENRI BENDEL Where: New York Fall bestsellers: Belted cheetah car coat by Milly and a sequin racer-back tank by Henri from Henri Bendel. Retail prices: $678 for the coat, $208 for the top. Who’s buying: “[Milly’s coat is for] the girl looking for something versatile and styl- ish that goes with everything,” said Ann Watson, the store’s vice president and fashion director. “[The sequin top is for] a girl who is looking for something special to go out.” Why they’ve done well: “Animal prints are a big trend for us and this coat is very versatile. It looks great over a dress or paired with skinny jeans,” Watson said. “[The tank] is the perfect top, with just the right amount of shine, to wear with jeans or trousers for a night out — Searle’s and a racer-back is incredibly sexy.” most Alice + popular BERGDORF GOODMAN Olivia’s dress Where: New York and bergdorfgood- beaded tunic in silk man.com is a hit at charmeuse. Fall bestseller: Milly’s fake fur Saks Fifth cheetah-print jacket. Avenue. Retail price: $470 Who’s buying: “It’s the perfect jacket Autumn for the uptown girl, at a great price,” Cashmere’s said Shira Lauter, vice president and Henri from Henri double- divisional merchandise manager for Bendel’s sequin tank. breasted Bergdorf ’s 5F department. sweater Why it’s done well: “It’s just so cute,” she said. at Olive & Bette’s. SAKS FIFTH AVENUE Where: 54 stores nationwide and saks.com Fall bestsellers: Alice + Olivia’s beaded tunic, Vince’s quilted leather jacket and Seven For All Mankind’s high-waisted trouser. Retail prices: $484 for the tunic, $595 for the jacket and $209 for the trousers. Who’s buying: “The current trend of shine and the wide- leg jean is what the Saks Fifth Avenue contemporary client wants,” said Michael Fink, women’s fashion director. Why they’ve done well: “Novelty tops continue to Minnie be one of the easiest wardrobe pick-me-ups out Rose’s there,” he said. “These particular styles are cashmere selling to both our contemporary and design- dress at er clientele. She’s buying contemporary to Rapunzel’s go with her designer bags and shoes.” Closet.

SHOPBOP SEARLE everything, she’s pleased to be able to have a jean Where: Madison, Wis., and Shopbop.com Where: New York (eight locations) and sear- that fi ts as is,” Pecor said. “Knits as a category have Fall bestsellers: Alice + Olivia’s dress lenyc.com been amazing. We’ve been selling a variety of styles with roses and Vince’s leather funnel Fall bestsellers: Searle’s open-back silk in a variety of weights, and they’ve all done really jacket. charmeuse dress and Searle’s waffl e-weave well. Autumn Cashmere has been fantastic across the Retail prices: $297 for the dress and $695 cashmere jacket. board.” for the jacket. Retail prices: $498 for the dress, $498 for the Who’s buying: The contemporary custom- jacket. RAPUNZEL’S CLOSET er looking for quality, according to Erin Who’s buying: “The dress is worn by women Where: Palm Beach, Fla. (two locations), and shopra- Crandall, head buyer. of all ages in good physical shape,” said Rick punzels.com Why they’ve done well: “The Alice + Olivia Weinstein, director of sales and marketing. Fall bestsellers: Frye’s shortie cuff boots, Anlo’s trouser dress has been a huge success this season “[The jacket is for] women of all ages.” jeans and Minnie Rose’s cashmere dress. because the color and the roses make it a Why they’ve done well: “[The dress has a] sexy Retail prices: $258 for the boots, $198 for the jeans and chic and special dress for any event this fall. open back, but demure round neck front,” he said. $286 for the dress. It looks designer at a contemporary price “The jacket is a great chunky knit jacket. Pleating Who’s buying: “Women in their late 20s and 30s, not col- point,” Crandall said. “The Vince leather and seaming detail make for a very novel style.” lege students,” said Randi Evans, owner. jacket has been strong because it’s a great Why they’ve done well: “They are great fashion styles classic black leather jacket, which is a staple OLIVE & BETTE’S to mix into your wardrobe and make other items look for the season.” Where: New York (four locations) and oliveand- fresh,” she said. bettes.com ATRIUM Fall bestsellers: Paige Premium Denim’s Fairfax SEATON Where: New York, Miami and Livingston, N.J. Petite jeans and Autumn Cashmere’s double-breast- Where: Los Angeles Fall bestseller: LaRok’s parochial-sleeve LaRok’s ed sweater with leather buttons. Fall bestsellers: Seaton’s cashmere wrap and cashmere fi tted shirt with men’s tie. parochial- Retail prices: $230 for the jeans, $315 for the sweat- sea-horse boyfriend cardigan. Retail price: $158 sleeve fi tted er. Retail prices: $354 for the wrap, $386 for the cardigan. Who’s buying: “The fashionista girl who shirt with Who’s buying: “Small women who want a jean Who’s buying: “Celebrities include Christina Aguilera, wants to look polished with a bit of edge,” men’s tie at that’s specifi cally made for their body types,” Rose McGowan, Denise Richards,” said co-owner Jill said Christine Lee, women’s wear head Atrium. said owner Stacey Pecor. “And everyone loves Roberts. “Everyone from teenage girls and twentysome- buyer. this sweater.” things to fashionable moms and older. The line crosses Why it’s done well: “It’s a great price point, looks Why they’ve done well: “In denim, Paige’s generations.” great with all high-waisted styles that we are selling, Fairfax Petite jeans have been amazing. Why they’ve done well: “These are classic, timeless, it can be styled cute and sexy as well as dressier if It’s not just a smaller jean — it’s a petite amazing quality pieces that can be worn from season to you remove the tie,” she said. one. For a woman accustomed to tailoring season,” she said. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 11 WWD.COM Design Award Winners Talk Shop in New York By Rosemary Feitelberg be broke if need be. And I’m not.” proach also has a psychological edge, Defi nitely someone who thinks in 3-D, Offi ce dA’s Tongxian since diminishing the role of the archi- o outsiders, design is an amorphous Owens said he always carries an index Gate House in tect empowers clients to embrace more Tdiscipline, a familiar word that card in his back pocket to jot things Beijing. radical proposals. “We can come up doesn’t conjure up images of anything down and, usually when he is at the gym with something potentially fantastic and too concrete. But a handful of this year’s or traveling, he comes up with shapes when we leave the room they say, ‘Oh, National Design Awards winners gath- or lines on a body. Not a fan of clothes well, I designed it.’ ” ered Tuesday to spell out some of the that suggest the wearer’s bust should be Offi ce dA’s futuristic-looking BP gas seemingly prismatic challenges they face smaller or their waist is too big, Owens station in Los Angeles is an example and to size up contemporary design. said he is a big believer in clothes that of how the fi rm aims to change the way Given the spectrum of architects, suggest “you’re good enough and don’t people think about buildings. The for- landscape architects and industrial, need to be manipulated.” mer British Petroleum, which has been

graphic and fashion designers cross- On another front, Owens said he is DAN BIBB PHOTO BY rebranded BP with the tag line Beyond pollinating and the media’s increased fl attered that the Philippe Jousse gal- ects that are as diffi cult as possible and Petroleum, actually uses the station coverage of their various collaborations, lery has taken on his signature furniture unlike previous ones. as a living lab that regularly welcomes there’s no question that design is becom- collection, which is inspired in part by Relaying a vision to others is also es- schoolchildren to discuss energy-relat- ing an ever-hotter topic. Even the eve- Le Corbusier, Jo Colombo and Emile- sential. “How do you ask a New York City ed and sustainability issues. Like Renzo ning’s host, the Cooper-Hewitt National Jacques Ruhlmann. All in all, the de- contractor to stick 120,000 bamboo skew- Piano and Norman Foster, Tehrani said Design Museum in New York, had to signer seemed to be at ease in the City ers into the ceiling?” said Tsurumaki, he favors holistic designs. make adjustments — moving the event of Light. “It’s very pleasant to be a guest referring to one of LTL’s interiors. Panelists also delved into environ- to an outdoor tent for the fi rst time to ac- in Paris. It’s nice to have a little sense Walker, whose fi rm is at work on the mentally friendly and sustainability is- commodate the 280 attendees. of alienation in a foreign country. I grounds surrounding the World Trade sues. As cities become overdeveloped Cooper-Hewitt curatorial director don’t think I’m going to leave France too Center Memorial, said, “When you deal and public plazas grow more scarce, Cara McCarty chatted with NDA winners soon,” said Owens, this year’s NDA win- with architects, they’re stubborn. They roofs are becoming popular for fresh-air Rick Owens, Offi ce dA’s Nader Tehrani, ner for fashion. will hold onto an idea sometimes for escapes, Walker said. They also can be LTL’s Mark Tsurumaki and David Lewis Instead of divvying up creative and fi ve or six years and that’s how those more affordable. While sizing up a roof- and PWP Landscape Architecture’s business responsibilities or various marvelous ideas get made.” And, rather top transportation center project in San Peter Walker about inspiration, innova- projects, Lewis and Tsurumaki of LTL, than delegate tasks, they often do things Francisco, he determined a grass roof tion, shared authorship, sustainability the interior design fi rm, said everything themselves, he added. would cost $200 a foot to build, whereas and other elements of their work. they tackle with their other partner, Tehrani and his partner, Monica Ponce a glass one would be $400 a foot. In the U.S. for the fi rst time in fi ve Paul Lewis, is rooted in collaboration. de Leon, use a different tactic, often lay- Tehrani said, “Too often sustainabil- years, Paris-based Owens said that, early “For us, strength comes from having ing responsibilities on junior-level staff- ity is talked about and seen as something on in his career, he wanted to be an art- three designers,” said David Lewis. ers, which speeds up the learning curve that is applied to a project instead of ist. “To tell you the truth, that seemed Beyond allowing the trio to handle and gives Offi ce dA’s partners more time being a catalyst for how a project is ap- like a lot of work,” he said. “I liked more work and upping the intensity in- to play around with ideas. “Monica and I proached.” clothes and I thought, I will make a liv- volved with any one project, the setup become their employees,” he said. Tsurumaki added, “It simply needs to ing designing clothes, so I went to pat- enables them to be critical of each oth- In truth, the founders get clients in- be a moral obligation that has to be as- ternmaking school to learn and worked er’s work, to expand individual ideas volved with the design process from the sumed the way one builds today….It’s kind for five years with other companies. and to play off each other’s strengths, word go — so much so that they “inhabit of a fantastic opportunity for architects, Then I decided to go out on my own and he said. As a result, LTL opts for proj- their family,” Tehrani said. This ap- and that’s the way it needs to be seen.” Krogner Denies Esprit-Roberto Cavalli Deal in the Works By Melissa Drier is not new. The ceo didn’t deny having been in earlier tionize the luxury segment. They have to increase the of- talks with Escada, Puma and Jil Sander, but “in the past, fering to make it interesting across the year. Their time to BERLIN — Although Esprit remains on the luxury acqui- private equity fi rms pushed up the prices. They seem to market is 12 months. Women only need nine,” he joked. sition trail, the lifestyle company said Roberto Cavalli be pulling back a bit at the moment,” he said. The upper levels of the market “seem to be easier isn’t in its sights — and the Milan fashion house also As for reports Esprit was eyeing Cavalli, “that’s a total than ours. They live on dreams,” though he acknowl- vigorously denied speculation it is in talks with Esprit. fabrication,” he countered. “We’re not thinking about nor edged they “don’t only dream but deliver great prod- Heinz Krogner, Esprit chairman and group chief ex- are we in any talks with Cavalli. There are a lot of brands ucts, too. But I think the whole luxury offering is too ecutive offi cer, confi rmed the company’s ongoing inter- all over the place…such as all the family companies in far away.” est in buying a luxury brand. However, while he said Italy that are having problems fi nding successors.” What would that mean in practice? Krogner said Esprit easily can afford to invest 1 billion euros, or $1.42 In considering Esprit’s acquisition options, Krogner talks with Prada regarding Jil Sander, were “going well, billion at current exchange, in such a deal, he empha- said the decision was made not to move into a lower but then we pulled back. I had to organize my own suc- sized such an acquisition “is not necessary for us. We’re price segment. “There’ll always be someone cheaper. cession at Esprit.” growing substantially without acquisitions,” he told And [buying] a direct competitor also made no sense. Indeed, Krogner said he would consider buying into WWD in a telephone interview from Esprit’s business But a luxury acquisition could be interesting for the the premium segment. “But I could also create my own headquarters in Ratingen, Germany. Holding. For one thing, we’d have access to the best de- brand, setting up in London, for example, and using the In the fi scal year ended June 30, Esprit Holdings Ltd., sign talent. design talent there. This is not a fi nal decision. which is based in Hong Kong, reported a 26.9 percent “Of course, if we bought a [luxury] brand, it would “We are looking upwards in order to give Esprit a bet- increase in group sales to 29.6 billion Hong Kong dol- remain in its position. But the team running the brand ter image and access to quality and design excellence. I lars, or $3.8 billion, with net profi ts up 38.6 percent to could provide a taste level, design excellence and train want to force my people to think higher,” he continued. 5.2 billion Hong Kong dollars, or $66.7 million. All dollar Esprit’s people,” he explained. “To have a more expen- “I believe that in the future, people won’t consume more fi gures are converted from the Hong Kong dollar at an sive sister would be good for Esprit and provide a learn- but better.” average rate for the period. ing curve.” Esprit is considering the upper market segment, he Esprit Holdings currently encompasses the ver- However, he’s also convinced Esprit’s aggressive busi- reiterated, “not because of turnover, though of course I tical Esprit and edc lifestyle brands as well as Red ness approach could equally benefi t a luxury brand. “With wouldn’t want a nonfunctioning brand. It should be prof- Earth cosmetics. our business model of 12 collections a year, our interna- itable. But this is not for the sake of growth. It’s for the Krogner’s interest in moving into the luxury segment tionality and our short time to market, we could revolu- knowledge curve.”

BRITAIN’S PREMIUM DEPARTMENT STORE YOU SAY FASHION, WE SAY

www.houseoffraser.co.uk/ourvision 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM It was a strong Milan collections season “that suffered not a bit for its brevity,” said WWD. And, while press and retailers left Milan exhausted from the condensed schedule, TheWWDList they nonetheless were in high spirits, thanks to the fresh, colorful and feminine fashions. “It was one of the strongest weeks here in many seasons,” agreed Yasmin Sewell, buying director at Browns and Browns Focus in London. “It seemed more directional than in the past, but still commercial.” Buyers’ favorites included Dolce & Gabbana, Jil Sander, 6267, Marni, Fendi, Prada and Versace. And key trends for the season were ethnic-themed prints, transparency and full skirts of all lengths. Eighteen of the 20 designers this season were Bravo, Milan also in Style.com’s top 20 last season — and, interestingly, two of the top 20 also featured ads for their new fragrances during their shows: Gucci and Emporio Armani. The most-viewed 2008 Milan spring collections on Style.com. — Cecily Hall PRADA ALBERTA FERRETTI Page views: 2,583,113 Page views: 1,026,334 “What is fashion but a tale of enchantment?” asked Dresses of all lengths lined Alberta Ferretti’s spring WWD. In Miuccia Prada’s case, it’s an exquisite runway. She worked her trademark draping, tucking fairyland. She showed a collection full of gentle, eccentric and twisting techniques into most of her looks, including 1 dresses, and she toyed with skinny knits and separates. 11 the jersey and chiffon dresses. Most came in shorter, Prada stole the number-one spot from Dolce & cocktail lengths — save for the sweeping mint green Gabbana, which topped last season’s Style.com ranking. and white numbers — that stayed above the knee. DOLCE & GABBANA FENDI Page views: 2,233,479 Page views: 1,015,451 Stefano Gabbana called it an “homage to Karl Lagerfeld chose a single silhouette for Fendi’s contemporary art,” as he and Domenico Dolce opened spring collection: midcalf length, circle-skirted and their spring show with a blank slate, so to speak. They cinched at the waist with stone belts. Old-fashioned? 12 Not Karl: “It was modern, novel and never boring,” said 2 sent out a charming white party dress and moved onward to dresses, coats and pants, some lightly WWD. He started with waistcoats that fell away into painted. “The fi nale was a fashion dream,” said WWD. long, skirting coattails, and moved on to print dresses. GUCCI ROBERTO CAVALLI Page views: 1,997,719 Page views: 965,371 Frida Giannini opened her show with a TV spot for the Straying from his usual steamy and sizzling approach, house’s new Gucci by Gucci fragrance. Fragrance aside, Roberto Cavalli this season chose to try his hand the collection continued the Fifties motif she started for at gentility. Much of the collection was serene. He 3 resort. She worked with black and white, injecting shots 13 showed a lovely white drop-waist lace gown, bell- of bright pink and yellow, and showed sack dresses and bottom trousers, textured peasant blouses and terrifi c reimagined motorcycle jackets, shirts and pants. billowing frocks. VERSACE JIL SANDER Page views: 1,636,468 Page views: 929,989 “This is for a working woman,” Donatella Versace said An under-the-weather Raf Simons showed “a before the show. “Everything is sensual, but sleek and breathtaking fusion of the cerebral and celebratory” simple.” Indeed. She showed smart, tailored looks, for spring, said WWD. It was all about precision: he 4 including a kangaroo-leather coat and cropped trousers 14 featured intricate and geometric cuts on his ponchos, worn with relaxed shirts. She went softer with her silks tube tops and skinny pants. He also displayed numerous and jersey dresses. Evening was colorful and bright. jackets cut high over hourglass knit tops and pants. BURBERRY PRORSUM EMILIO PUCCI Page views: 1,416,580 Page views: 929,324 Once again, Christopher Bailey distanced himself from “American Southwest by way of Japan is the best way the cool chick-meets-retro gal, and concentrated on a to describe Matthew Williamson’s most recent Pucci “luxury warrior” collection instead. The Celtic shield- effort,” said WWD. The wide range of styles also was 5 evident in the accessories, which included feathered inspired hardware studs on belts, sheaths and trenches 15 worked the warrior angle, while his skintight ruched and fringed vests, crocheted ponchos, kimono sleeves skirts and dresses were more of the sexy variety. and slinky belts. D&G BLUMARINE Page views: 1,409,822 Page views: 844,071 Dolce and Gabbana’s spring was full of fl irty, free-spirit With a clear theme in mind — the jet-set stretches of looks that screamed part-disco girl, part-hippie chick. Saint-Tropez — Anna Molinari worked with a candy- Dresses cascading with free-fl owing ruffl es opened and colored palette for spring. From there, she went in 6 closed the show, and in between was a parade of minis, 16 a number of different directions. She showed some maxis and vibrant fl orals. Tailored looks were tomboyish Seventies looks, a few slinky Greek-goddess gowns, — think button-down shirts and classic sweaters. safari prints, ruffl ed dresses and some sequined hoodies. MARNI MISSONI Page views: 1,369,560 Page views: 785,126 The Marni collection was an impressive continuation of Though the Missoni house is known for its loud and geometric shapes and crafty accessories that designer lively collections, Angela Missoni chose to play with Consuelo Castiglioni has been featuring the past few a gentler side. She opened with soft, feminine pieces, 7 such as the ivory duster edged with ruffl es and the seasons. She worked again with nylons, latex and 17 gabardine on her dresses, dotting them with bright blousy prints, which were matched with tailored pants. neon pinks and greens. There were watercolor-like prints in her silk gowns. GIORGIO ARMANI EMPORIO ARMANI Page views: 1,175,298 Page views: 758,503 Inspired by the Italian countryside, Giorgio Armani “This was one of Armani’s merchiest presentations showed signatures that “bore a fresh modernity that in recent memory,” said WWD. The show began 8 made the casual air urbane and romantic,” said WWD. with a commercial featuring Emporio Armani’s new Pants were plentiful — cropped and tied at the knees, or 18 Diamonds fragrance and moved into all kinds of others with billowing bottoms. Evening was full of sultry wearable looks. There were beachy tank-and-mini gowns embellished with fringes and embroideries. combos and variations on tricky pants. DSQUARED ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA Page views: 1,168,159 Page views: 642,177 This season, Dan and Dean Caten gave their girl “a Basing his collection on the portraits of photographer little more glitter and a lot more glam,” said WWD, Araki Nobuyoshi, Alessandro Dell’Acqua found a fresh outfi tting her in a series of ultrashort dresses — from angle on the already-been-used Japanese theme for 9 cotton shifts to silk baby dolls — adorned with plenty of 19 spring. A kimono was shrunken into a mini coatdress, gems and hardware. Other noteworthy pieces were the and a lotus branch was seen climbing up feather-fringed barely there bathing suits and the leather cocoon coats. sheaths, while obis circled the bodices of his dresses. BOTTEGA VENETA GIANFRANCO FERRE Page views: 1,043,910 Page views: 614,998 Thomas Maier’s description of his collection as being Gianfranco Ferré’s untimely death in June left his staff “of pronounced subtlety and quiet” was spot-on: The to execute the spring collection. The house showed high- designer showed a lineup of retro style-meets-Italian waisted pants, long chiffon gowns and tiered baby-doll 20 dresses. Said WWD: “Let’s hope that when [Lars Nilsson 10 movie star. Cuts were intricate, mainly in natural- toned gabardines and linens — Maier played with takes the reins], he holds them with the same kind of ruching, pleating and various lengths of sleeves, too. tautness and authority for which Ferré was known.” PHOTOS BY MAURICIO MIRANDA, DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAVIDE MAESTRI AND DAVE YODER MAESTRI AND DAVE GIANNONI, MIRANDA, DAVIDE DELPHINE ACHARD, STEPHANE FEUGERE, MAURICIO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY SOURCE: STYLE.COM; IN ALL, MILAN’S TOP 20 12-DAY PAGE VIEWS TOTALED 26.4 MILLION WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 13 WWD.COM Kellwood to Face Pressure After Rejecting Sun Continued from page one Although analysts see Kellwood’s company’s opportunities for sales and earnings growth,” according to a state- new acquisitions as ripe with ment issued Wednesday morning. Further, the bid “is not in the best long-term growth potential, the four don’t interests of Kellwood and its shareholders...taking into account the potential have much in common, and the in- benefi ts that may be realized through the company’s previously announced tegration could prove challenging. long-term strategic plan.” In addition, they make up only a Kellwood is in the fi rst year of its fi ve-year strategic plan, and industry small portion of what has proved sources predict it will take the group at least two years to organically raise a challenging portfolio — and its stock price anywhere close to the $21 offer. Kellwood’s shares closed Kellwood’s track record with acqui- Wednesday down 34 cents to $17.33. sitions has been problematic, with “Our board is committed to enhancing shareholder value, and the Sun many analysts believing the fi rm Capital proposal is not consistent with this objective,” Robert C. Skinner Jr., overpaid for brands such as Phat chairman, president and chief executive offi cer of Kellwood, said in a state- Farm. Analysts suggest Kellwood’s ment. “We continue to believe that executing our corporate strategy to rein- problems would be easier to fi x as vigorate our core business, expand our penetration into higher profi le, bet- a private company, shielded from ter and above price point brands, connect more directly with consumers and public scrutiny. utilize our operating infrastructure more effi ciently to fund our growth will For fiscal year 2006, earnings deliver greater value to our shareholders. Our board is determined to enable swung into the black to $31.4 million, all of its shareholders to participate in these future benefi ts resulting from the or $1.21 a diluted share, from a loss company’s sales and earnings growth strategy.” of $38.4 million, or $1.42, in 2005. Skinner was unavailable Wednesday for further comment, and offi cials at Restructuring costs largely caused Sun Capital declined comment. that dramatic drop from earnings “Kellwood doesn’t have any alternative but to pursue its stated course,” of $70.1 million, or $2.50 a diluted said consultant Paul Charron, former chairman and ceo of Kellwood rival Liz share, in 2004, and $71.1 million, or Claiborne Inc. “The next move, if there is one, is someone else’s. $2.62, in 2003. For the last two years, “I would have been fl abbergasted if the board took that offer,” Charron con- sales have been around $1.96 billion, tinued. “It was a low-ball bid at a point in time when the stock was depressed. down from $2.56 billion in 2004 and The stock picked up a few dollars and is now tracking in a range with the other $2.35 billion in 2003. companies in the category.” Faced with a disappointing $66.3 With behind-the-scenes negotiations with Sun Capital likely to follow, million second-quarter loss from Kellwood must now attempt to deliver shareholder value on its own. continuing operations last month, “This is an issue between the stockholders, who could have gotten a sub- Kellwood streamlined its women’s stantial premium over the stock price instead of waiting several years, versus the manage- Baby Phat ment, who believes their plan could make it better,” said consultant Emanuel Weintraub. Our board is committed to enhancing shareholder “Sun Capital was offering $21 when the stock “ price was $15 — that’s a 40 percent premium value, and the Sun Capital proposal is not consistent — and now it’s [around] $18 for reasons prob- ably solely attributable to the bid. If I were a with this objective. stockholder, I would say sell the stock, take the ” — Robert C. Skinner Jr., Kellwood money and run.” Sun Capital’s offer was actually closer to $1 billion because it included the assumption of sportswear business by dividing it into Lifestyle Alliance for moderate brands, in- $500 million in debt. cluding Sag Harbor, Koret and Briggs New York; Designer Alliance for most of Sources predict Wednesday’s refusal might Kellwood’s better and above price point brands, including Calvin Klein women’s bet- be just round two in a long fi ght. Sun was will- ter sportswear, ck Calvin Klein women’s bridge sportswear, O Oscar, David Meister ing to buy all remaining stock at $21 and, as the and Hollywould, and Modern Alliance for junior and contemporary lines, including second largest holder with about a 10 percent XOXO, My Michelle and Vince. stake at the time of the bid, the equity fi rm now In the last month, the fi rm has also made a series of management changes, install- is likely to buy shares at the $17 going rate until ing new leadership whom industry sources hope will prove more effective at execut- it maxes out at a 15 percent stake. Sun could ing the company’s strategic plan. Among the recent moves: also team up with other shareholders to force a ● On Tuesday it named Sandra Campos, president and co-founder of designer sale, demand a seat on the board, try to unseat packaging company Mobi Inc., as president of O Oscar, succeeding Maria Viccaro, the management or make them more serious- who resigned last week. ly consider selling — possibly even at a lower ● Last week Hope Brick, vice president of apparel, accessories and footwear price, sources suggest. design at Wal-Mart Stores Inc., was hired as chief merchandising offi cer of the new With the exception of brands like Vince, Lifestyle Alliance division. Gerber, Hanna Andersson, Baby Phat, Smart ● In September Kellwood named Wendy Chivian, senior vice president and gen- Shirts and American Recreation, Kellwood’s eral manager of Badgley Mischka sportswear, as president of Kellwood’s Calvin Klein portfolio lacks many lifestyle brands, retail, in- women’s sportswear, succeeding Stephen L. Ruzow as the head of its licenses for ternational or luxury businesses, and instead is Calvin Klein women’s better sportswear and ck Calvin Klein women’s bridge sports- fi lled with struggling moderate labels like Sag wear businesses. Harbor, Koret and Briggs New York, plus licensed brands like O Oscar and Calvin ● Coinciding with the restructuring announcement, the company named Patrick Klein white label. J. Burns, vice president of marketing and strategy since October and former head of Those two licensed brands could be adding to the pressure at Kellwood, since the Gerber Childrenswear division, as Lifestyle Alliance group president, effectively sources said both require huge royalties payable to Calvin Klein and Oscar de la replacing Paul A. Robb, ceo of Kellwood’s Lifestyle Design Group, which included O Renta, as well as guarantees to retailers like Macy’s. While both are strong labels, Oscar and Sag Harbor, who was let go. neither is generating the level of sales to justify the guarantees or royalties, sourc- “Kellwood’s management rejecting this is promising stockholders greater rewards es said. in the future than Sun is offering right now, but will the shareholders agree that the Kellwood’s strategic plan calls for acquiring better and above price point brands strategic plan will bring them the rewards in one to two years or is it more long-term? with retail and international reach, and the fi rm has spent the last year making small How good is the strategic plan? No one knows until you execute it, and Kellwood has acquisitions in higher margin markets. It entered contemporary last year, buying not shown a great ability to execute successfully in all of its divisions,” Weintraub Vince in September and Hollywould in December. Then in June, it bought activewear added. “If you are asking me as a professional management consultant what Kellwood fi rm Royal Robbins Inc. for about $40 million, and children’s line Hanna Andersson should do next, I think Kellwood should continue to negotiate for the best deal pos- Corp. for about $175 million. sible for the stockholders.”

Brownridge — who himself came out of retirement to take HOME AWAY: Just a day after the kickoff of House & over the former Dennis Publishing this summer — has Garden’s largest event in years, its fi rst ever Design swapped executives with his old boss Jann Wenner. Sean Week, the magazine’s vice president and publisher Joseph MEMO PAD Fenlon, formerly Wenner’s director of manufacturing Lagani left to explore the World Wide Web. Lagani will services, joined Alpha Media last week as director of become vice president, general manager of GlamLiving. STAFFING UP: Alpha Media Group is bulking up its circulation and manufacturing, while his predecessor, Lou com, the design, travel and entertainment segment of management ranks with two hires. Joseph Mangione has Terracciano, went to Wenner to fi ll Fenlon’s position. online female-centric portal Glam Media. Lagani helped been named chief marketing offi cer, coming out of Elsewhere at Wenner Publishing, Men’s Journal turn ad pages around at the Condé Nast shelter title, retirement to take the job. Mangione will be responsible associate publisher Matt Mastrangelo has been and even earned the Turnaround of the Year award from for integrated marketing efforts for Maxim and Blender’s promoted to the newly created position of executive Condé Nast chief executive offi cer Charles Townsend at print and online properties, as well as its event promotions director, corporate sales and marketing. Mastrangelo the annual publisher’s meeting in February. (Through division, Alpha Productions. Mangione retired a year ago will oversee corporate advertising sales and integrated September, pages have slipped by 1 percent, to 624 from his position as president, sales and marketing for programs for Us Weekly, Men’s Journal and Rolling pages.) Lagani gave notice of his departure Wednesday media company CanWest Global Communications Corp. Stone, and report to chief marketing offi cer Gary morning to Townsend and House & Garden editor in chief Before that, he was executive vice president, integrated Armstrong. Replacing Mastrangelo will be advertising Dominique Browning. He will assume his new position Nov. sales at Time Warner and has worked for Meredith Corp., director Jeremy Levine. Men’s Journal will close a record 1 and report to Glam Media chairman and ceo Samir Arora. Billboard Publications and Playboy Enterprises. year with 1,250 ad pages, up 16 percent from last GlamLiving.com launched Wednesday. A replacement for Additionally, Alpha Media chief executive Kent year. — Stephanie D. Smith Lagani has not been named. — S.D.S. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 WWD.COM Brands Back Vote on Mexican Factory Union FashionCenterDallas By Evan Clark Announces Revival WASHINGTON — Gap Inc., Levi Strauss & Co., Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle Outfitters, Express and Warnaco Inc. are urging authorities to allow workers at a Grupo Navarra Of Former Schedule jeans factory in Tehuacán, Mexico, to vote on creating an in- dependent union. By Holly Haber “We expect our suppliers to respect the lawful exercise of workers’ rights of free association,” the brands, all of which DALLAS — Responding to demand, have used the Mexican company as a supplier, wrote in a let- FashionCenterDallas will return to a ter to Puebla State Secretary of Labor José Antonio López Thursday-to-Sunday market schedule Malo Cappellini. next year. The letter, dated Tuesday, was coordinated by the Maquila The move comes after a September Solidarity Network, a Toronto-based workers’ rights organi- survey that found a majority of retail- zation. The U.S. companies requested that authorities set a ers and exhibitors preferred those “defi nitive date” for a vote on unionization to be held in “an days over the Sunday-to-Wednesday accessible and neutral location.” format that was tested this year, ac- “Through our vendor codes of conduct, our companies cording to the Dallas Market Center, seek to do business only with suppliers that respect workers’ parent of FCD. rights,” the companies wrote in their letter. “In addition, it “Our goal is to be completely fl ex- is important that we and other companies doing business in ible and cooperative with market dates Puebla remain confi dent in the government’s commitment to Gap Inc. is one of several companies supporting the formation of a in order to provide buyers, sales reps the rule of law.” union at a jeans factory in Mexico. and manufacturers with the most pro- Bob Jeffcott, policy analyst at the Maquila Solidarity ductive and effi cient market experi- Network, said labor organizations linked to the state govern- of the factory if they support the union. ence,” said Cindy Morris, chief operat- ment have been thwarting workers’ attempts to form a union It is a good sign that the brands are backing the people re- ing offi cer of DMC. in which they would have a voice. He said almost 100 employ- sponsible for actually making the goods, Jeffcott said. FCD’s fi rst show in 2008 is set for es from a total workforce of about 800 people have been fi red “It’s quite an important precedent,” he said. “It does put Jan. 24 to 27 instead of Jan. 27 to 30. at the facility, including 20 on Wednesday. He alleged that additional pressure on the state authorities and the employer New dates for the other four markets workers have been harassed and threatened with the closure to ensure that worker rights are respected.” next year should be set within a couple of weeks, said Cole Daugherty, DMC’s vice president for marketing commu- nications. “We’re trying to make every effort to stand free and clear of other Retail Apparel Prices Up for First Time in 7 Months markets.” An overlap with the show at AmericasMart in Atlanta occurred in WASHINGTON — Retail prices on after adjusting for seasonal variations. vestments at Hinsdale Assoc. August, and as the schedule stands women’s apparel grew a seasonally Suit and separates prices inched The fallout in the real estate market there will also be confl ict in January. adjusted 0.5 percent in September, up 0.1 percent for the month, but fell continued last month when, according The new Dallas dates overlap two the first increase in seven months, 5 percent from a year earlier, as out- to a separate Commerce Department days of the AmericasMart event, though prices are still down 3.1 per- erwear prices jumped 3.4 percent in report Wednesday, construction of new which is planned for Jan. 26 to 29. cent from a year ago. September and 1.1 percent for the homes fell 10.2 percent. Previously, the two shows coincided September’s rise in women’s ap- year, and dress prices advanced 1.6 The Fed will draw on information on three days. parel prices outpaced inflation in percent against both August and over from the Beige Book and other sourc- Last April, AmericasMart changed its the broader economy, which saw the 12 months. es when it meets to set interest rate 2007 markets to Sunday-to-Wednesday, prices on all goods and services rise adopting the same pattern that Dallas 0.3 percent, according to the Labor launched in January. Officials at Department’s Consumer Price Index AmericasMart declined to comment on released Wednesday. The so-called The Fed is paying attention to the housing Dallas’ return to the old format or to core prices, which exclude the food “ discuss how its clients have responded and energy sectors, rose 0.2 percent, market because they don’t want to let the to the schedule in Atlanta. the fourth such monthly increase In Dallas, “People either loved it [the in a row. housing market implode for fear that the Sunday start] or hated it,” said Brad “Higher oil and food prices are Hughes, principal in Brad Hughes & simply not fueling broader infl ation consumer completely pulls back. Assoc., one of the largest showrooms at in the United States, as the subprime — Paul” Nolte, Hinsdale Assoc. FCD specializing in bridge and contem- [mortgage] meltdown and pullback in porary. “I never could put my fi nger on housing prices are making consumers which was the favorite.” more cautious about how they spend However, the overall trend in ap- policies on Oct. 30 and 31. From the The Sunday-to-Wednesday schedule their money,” Peter Morici, profes- parel is defl ationary. Decreased reg- Beige Book, the Fed will see a mixed was intended to allow retailers to be sor at the University of Maryland’s ulation on apparel trade, the rise of picture. in their stores on busy Saturdays. But Robert H. Smith School of Business, China, technological advances and in- In the Boston area, “Several retail- after the fi rst show in January, several wrote in an analysis. tense retail competition have all com- ers anticipate no improvement for an- sales representatives opted to open on The Federal Reserve Board’s bined to push apparel prices down other one to two years,” said the report. the Saturday before each market in re- Beige Book, which was also re- 10.1 percent over the last decade. “However, others remain optimistic in sponse to buyer demand. leased Wednesday and offered an The mild price inflation seen their outlook. As one noted, ‘For the Hughes said he has 75 appointments anecdotal reading of the economy in across all goods and services was not right deal, people are still buying.’” this Saturday, though the market starts September and early October across enough to ruffl e any economic feath- In Philadelphia, a luxe retailer Sunday. the Fed’s 12 districts, found overall ers. The Fed, which spent much of the said fashion items were “well up from “I was just so accustomed to the old economic activity expanded since year watching infl ation and holding last year.” Similarly, luxury goods out- schedule and its routine, and this year August, though at a slower rate in interest rates steady, acknowledged performed lower-priced items in San was more complicated because I had the Cleveland, Dallas, Kansas City, the housing and credit problems last Francisco-area department stores, to stop and think about which appoint- Richmond, Va., and San Francisco month by lowering the benchmark though slower sales did cause inven- ments I needed to have on what days,” regions. federal funds interest rate by 50 basis tories to rise. said Victoria Jackson, owner of Talula “There appeared to be a high level points to 4.75 percent. “The general manager of a depart- contemporary shop in Dallas. “I’m of uncertainty about the outlook for “What’s happening here is the Fed ment store in the Washington area ready to go back.” retail sales and a few districts report is paying attention to the housing reported that stronger apparel sales Fashion Industry Gallery, the Dallas that retailers have reduced invento- market because they don’t want to let had been overshadowed by a further wholesale venue specializing in contem- ries,” said the report. the housing market implode for fear pullback in furniture sales,” said the porary fashions and accessories, has al- Even so, women’s apparel prices that the consumer completely pulls report. ways scheduled its markets to overlap rose broadly compared with August, back,” said Paul Nolte, director of in- — E.C. FCD. They differed slightly this year in that FIG has been running Saturday-to- Tuesday. “FIG will continue to host market in a similar date pattern as DMC in 2008, as it is important to the Dallas market Judith Ripka President Resigns From Jewelry House in general,” said Shelli Mers, director of anice Winter has stepped down as presi- “She was an integral part in our the Aramis and Lauder brands. FIG. “We have received mixed buyer re- Jdent of fine jewelry firm Judith Ripka. growth and success and we wish her the Judith Ripka has 13 stores, includ- views regarding the 2007 date pattern.... Winter said she resigned from the 34- very best,” he said of Winter. “This was ing a New York fl agship, a location in We will adjust our dates accordingly, year-old, New York-based company to not anticipated. We need to step back. Aspen, Colo., and a Las Vegas boutique based on retailer needs.” pursue other opportunities. We need to decide [what to do].” that opened this year. The company of- Hughes said he was “fi ne” with ei- Judith Ripka chief executive offi cer Before joining Ripka in 1993, Winter fers fi ne jewelry with 18-karat gold, dia- ther pattern. “The timing of the market Ronald J. Berk said the fi rm was sur- worked for 12 years at Estée Lauder, monds and gemstones, a silver line and within the month is the critical part of prised by the move and is taking time to where she held several positions, in- a line with QVC. this equation, not what days it’s on.” evaluate options. cluding working in sales, fi nance and for — Sophia Chabbott WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 18, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

OF THE TOP JOB WEEK CHILDREN’S APPAREL NETWORK Technical Designer APPLY NOW ON FASHIONCAREERS.COM New York City

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Bookkeeper/Controller Graphic Artist Midtown ladies sportswear mfg and Seeking Graphic Artist to work in Licens- importer looking for candidate that ing Dept. of an Accessories Co. Must be Ladies’ Lingerie/Garment Close Outs must have exp in A/P & chargebacks. proficient in Illustrator & Photoshop. Jr., Misses Fashion tops, bottoms, sports- ACCOUNTING ASST LC experience a plus. Excellent oppty Excel knowledge helpful but not neces- wear, bras, underwear close outs from for right person. Fax res: 212-921-8369 or sary. Salary: 35-45K DOE. Experience China; Very competitive prices. Guaran- NEEDED E-mail to: [email protected] with licensed packaging a plus! Please Leading Global Intimate Apparel Fax all resumes to: 212-244-0773 teed first quality. Every shipment gets Company located in SoHo, offers an inspected at loading. Call: 212-947-0196 Bookkeeper to $60K. Chargeback spe- exciting career opportunity for a moti- cialist. Must have current exp in vated, team player. Quick Books/ chargebacks dealing with major stores OFFICE MGR/SALES Accounting knowledge helpful. like Sears or JCPenney. Woodbridge, Organizational/ analytical skills are key. NJ area. Email: [email protected] ASST NEEDED Fax resume to (212) 219-9293, along Leading Global Intimate Apparel with salary request. Company located in SoHo, offers an BRAND HANDBAG exciting career opportunity for a A Division of Brand Resource Ltd Manufacturer/Importer, Looking for motivated, team player. 5+ years SALES reps with key account experience. Full Intimate Apparel experience suggested. US based design team, strong in-line Reception/office mgmt/sales experience Accounts Receivable / trend and fashion collections in stock. are a must. We have an exciting opportunity to join our successful and Chargebacks Please contact us. Send resume, brief Fax resume to:(212) 219-9293, along expanding junior denim team. We are seeking experienced Showrooms & Lofts sales history and Channels/Accts with salary request. sales professionals for dept. stores and specialty chains. BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Apparel company in midtown seeks served to: [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail individual to join A/R dept. Responsi- PRODUCTION ASSISTANT Ideal candidates must have a strong retail following, are ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 bilities include, but are not limited to, Fast-paced womans apparel co seeks chargeback resolution, collection calls, BUYER/Div. Mgr./to $100k++ “HIP” SPECIALTY STORE detail-oriented person with 1- 3 yrs exp highly motivated, organized, detail oriented and possess posting cash & daily banking and dealing to assist in NY office w/ flow of tech info strong communication skills. with our factor. Great oppty. for seasoned pro at this very trendy, men’s & ladies, NYC high from Design - Production & creation of Individual must have a minimum of 5 profile, specialty store to handle all ladies tech specs. Computer exp a must. Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] years experience in the industry, must buying and run the div. Capable of Email resume to:[email protected] be well organized and have the ability growing ladies area & have vision. fax to 215- 259-2060 to multi-task. Communication skills, both Req: Must have an eye for trends, PRODUCTION ASST. SALESPERSON verbal & written are essential. Computer shop Europe etc. for unique merch., Seeking hands on multi-tasker w/strong literacy is a must and some bookkeeping pref. mjr. Dept/specialty store (higher Junior/Missy Vertical woven company org./comm. skills. Proficient in Excel & needs motivated salesperson with experience would be preferred. end area) expr., polished, have contacts creating digital photo packs. E-mail to: etc. Salary + incentives. E-mail resume Recognized N.Y.C. Blouse Co is minimum 4/5 years experience. Must Please send resume to: [email protected] have established contacts, 4 day [email protected] confidentially to: [email protected] seeking a highly dedicated, experi- Fax 917-591-2521 Ph : 914-337-3660 week, salary plus commission. Fax CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING enced Sales Professional who has resume in confidence to: 212-395-9765 U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Production Coodinator www.sanodesignservices.com Leading Textile Co. in NYC seeks detail strong following with Macy’s, DESIGNER- FREELANCE oriented Production Coodinator. 5 years JCP, and other specialty stores. SALESPERSON Assistant Designer Women’s apparel company seeking a exp. & follow up skills req’d. Fabric Well known Sweater/Knit/Woven Product PATTERN/SAMPLES freelance designer for special projects. knowledge & Chinese plus. E-mail to: Generous salary plus commission. Development Co. seeks professional Sales- Leading Jr. Denim Co seeks a creative Must be able to put together fabric and [email protected] [email protected] person with est’d. following. Please Fax Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast style presentations, shop stores, and Please respond to: work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 person w/knowledge of Illustrator. Great all resumes to: 212-382-0790 or E-mail: learning exp. [email protected] research trends. Computer skills are designnetwork @justdesignusa.com necessary. Fax resume to: 212-869-8929 Production Coordinator Patterns/Samples/Production Hard working, detail oriented & able to Sales Professional Full Service, Fine Fast Work. multi task person w/min. 3 years exp. DESIGNER w/import prod’n. Must be able to coor- Major Suit Company seeks aggressive, Any Styles. highly motivated sales professional for Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 ASSISTANT DESIGNER Importer of Women’s Sleepwear has a dinate all aspects of prod’n. Understand Administrative Sales Major Intimate Apparel manufacturer great opportunity for a Fashion CAD spec & garment construction. Wal-Mart a new separates division. Minimum PATTERNS, SAMPLES, has an excellent oppty available. Can- designer with Sleepwear or Junior experience preferred. Computer literate, Assistant five years experience is required. didate should be organized, detail- Sportswear experience. Must be well Excel knowledge a must. Please E-mail Luxury retail company seeks highly Candidtae must have a proven track oriented and a team player with great organized, detail oriented, technical, resume to: [email protected] organized, detail oriented Assistant. record of growing new businesses and PRODUCTIONS opening new accounts. Strong rela- All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. follow-up skills. Responsibilities in- and proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Must have great computer skills & be clude daily communication with over- We offer a great working environment able to multi-task. Excellent opportunity tionships with independent retailers, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Production Manager department stores, specialty store seas offices/ factories, process artwork, and an attractive benefits package. Fast paced licensed gift and room to work in a team oriented environment. sampling/ production packages, and Please email resume and salary req’s Email or fax resume & salary req’s chains and off price store chains is a PATTERNS, SAMPLES, décor company looking for detail must. Retail math & account planning assisting designer in all phases of to:[email protected] oriented production manager. Respon- to: [email protected] or development. Construction knowledge 646.304.5674 skills helpful. Candidates must have a PRODUCTIONS sibilities include tracking orders and working knowledge of Microsoft Office, Full service shop to the trade. and ability to create flat sketches in production samples, daily communica- Illustrator req’d. Must also be able to Outlook, Excel and Word. Please email Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Designer / Stylist tion with factories, design, sales and resumes to: [email protected] meet deadlines and multitask. Please Textile Co. seeks Fabric Designer or shipping. Must have 3-5 years experi- PATTERNS & SAMPLES e-mail: [email protected] or fax Stylist. Fax resume to: ence. Hard goods knowledge a big your resume to: (212) 842-4050. EOE. 213-746603 plus. Must be fluent in Chinese. CONTROLLER ASST...... $75-85K SALES REP SMALL PRODUCTION Send resume in confidence to: Westchester Loc HF or Apparel Exp Established Contemporary Missy Novelty Fast - Accurate - Reliable [email protected] Allen Platt SRI Search 212-465-8300 Top and Knits Co. seeking aggressive. Call: 212-217-9750 DESIGNER-TECHNICAL [email protected] In-House sales rep in the Dallas, LA, Childen’s Apparel Network’s girl apparel www.srisearch.com Chicago, Atlanta, New York, and New RECEPTIONIST England area. Must have min 3 year exp PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD Assistant Designer division is seeking a candidate who has Fast paced co needs expd receptionist High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- and strong contacts in specialty stores. Major Sweater & T-shirt Mfr. has an patternmaking exp working w/sizes 12m- to handle heavy phone volume. Must sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 16 for a technical designer position. Re- Salary + Commission + Travel Expense. excellent opportunity available. Candi- be able to multi task. Good communi- Email resume: [email protected] date should have a minimum of 2 years sponsibilities include: creating tech cation skills and knwldg of MS Office. experience, be well organized and detail packs and full size specs for all gar- Send resume 212-840-8333 or EXPERIENCED SHOWROOM MGR...... $50-60K oriented. Knowledge of Illustrator and ments, writing fit comments and grad- [email protected] HF / Apparel growth to Sales Manager Photoshop required. Fax/E-mail resume: ing, & communicating w/factories on SALESPERSON Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 212-391-4665 / [email protected] a daily basis. Will work closely with SAMPLEMAKER [email protected] production design. Exp w/Illustrator, Sweater company looking for an expe- www.srisearch.com Photoshop, and Private labels are a Growing women’s couture co. seeks rienced sales person with 5 yrs or more plus. Excellent computer and commu- highly skilled and exp’d individual. in the sweater and knit tops. Depart- nication skills are required. E-mail Stable position. Emphasis on evening. ment and Specialty Store following a Bookkeeper your resume (attn HR Dept) to: Please call 212-869-2296 or must. Fast growing company. 3 yrs exp AP, AR, payroll. Excellent com- [email protected]/fax to: (212)967-2949 fax your resume to 212-869-2236. E-mail resume to munication, organizational and computer [email protected] skills. Send resume and salary to: Design Sample Maker or fax 212-302-5184 Box#M 1028 High end contemporary mgf seeking Park Avenue Boutique c/o Fairchild Classified LADIES ACTIVEWEAR experienced sample makers proficient 750 Third Avenue, 5th Fl with soft silk and cut and sew fabrics Full-Time entry level position available New York, NY 10017 DESIGNER as well as tailored pieces. at Designer Shoe Boutique. Please E-mail resume to: wallicony@ earthlink.net Leading Sports Apparel Company has Email resume to: [email protected] PRODUCTION COORD...... $35-40K an immediate opening for a Ladies Create PO’s, and prepare Activewear Designer based in NYC. STORE MANAGER pre-production packs. Responsibilities to include designing Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 and merchandising multiple lines of Luxury brand seeks detail and results oriented Store Manager for its Fifth [email protected] ladies fashion activewear licensed to www.srisearch.com us from colleges and the major sports Avenue location. Footwear and leather leagues. This position reports to our goods experience required. Min. of 5 Design Director and Division Head. years of retail management experience Qualifications to include, minimum 5 necessary. Strong communication and yrs exp, Bachelors Degree in Design, leadership skills a must. Competitive technical knowledge of knit fabrications, salary, commission, benefits and 401k. SALES EXECUTIVE Web PDM, Acrobat illustrator, and Please email resume to: Established Jr. Brand Name & Luxury good communication and interpersonal [email protected] “Gracie Roberts” handbag and small Le Doux Swimwear skills. Knowledge of sports a big plus. accessories label seeking Sales Exec. High-end Swimwear Line seeks exp’d. Please send resumes in strict Must exhibit proven relationships with Sales Reps. Reps representing alternate confidence to: [email protected] key Jr. and Specialty Chains and De- lines with est’d. Dept. Stores, upscale partment Stores. Must travel. Good boutique, swim & Specialty Store clien- Technical Designer/ CAD Operator Benefits. Fax resume w/salary history tele preferred. Please E-mail all resumes to: [email protected] to: [email protected] GIRLS DIVISION FABRIC CONVERTER Candidate must have former experience Mid-town Manhattan Woven Nylon with the following: Textile Co. seeks an exp’d, dynamic, •Adobe Illustrator/Excel proficiency self-motivated, detail-oriented converter •Experience in various facets of design to join our team. Duties include all from inception to product real estate suppliers aspects of the converting process - •Experience working w/Girls/Jr. division such as, but not limited to, the following: •Knits experience and some knowledge • Receiving/Processing of sales orders of wovens opportunities • Writing dye lots •Design skills: CAD sketching / • Monitoring of finishing plants presentation boards Candidate needs to be a team player, •Technical skills: Tech packs/spec travel eager to learn & take on responsibility, packs/form and fit knowledge willing to dig into the details and put •Ability to take creative direction and in the necessary time and effort to get work independently the job done. Please email resume and •Team player with a positive attitude careers provide salary requirements: •Strong organizational skills E-mail: [email protected] Fax Resumes to Ed: 212-947-3554 26,630 WWD readers are located in the Western region of the United States. FASHION FACULTY Private four year college seeks faculty Technical Designer for Fashion and Marketing program. Seeking highly technical, detail oriented Doctorate degree preferred, Master’s individual with 3 - 5 years experience degree required, along with significant with licensing background, garment industry experience. EOE. Email letter construction, to do detail packages for Call 1-800-423-3314 or email fpclassifi [email protected] to advertise. of application and current resume to: overseas. Photoshop & Illustrator profi- [email protected] ciency a must. Please Email all resumes Source: 03/06 ABC; WWD Subscriber Study, Beta Research Inc., 2005. For info: www.BerkeleyCollege.edu to: [email protected]