The Inside: Top Specialty Retailers Pg. 12 EXPLORING GHURKA OPTIONS/3 THE NEW VERSUS/11 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, you beautiful doll, all dressed in denim — the perfect refrain for frugal fashion girls everywhere. Resort is full of affordable denim in all shapes and styles. Here, Tyte’s stretch cotton jumpsuit, $17.50 at wholesale, worn with Star City’s cotton blouse, an Accessory Network belt, Juicy Couture earrings and Seychelles sandals. For more on the season’s best denim under $50, see pages 6 and 7.

Postmortem on Rochas: Y DAVID YASSKY Y DAVID It Takes More Than Talent To Play Corporate Game

By WWD Staff

TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR BECCA;TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR STYLED B NEW YORK — Designers and brand owners

/ARTIS must prioritize commercial, salable products over media glory. That’s among the chief lessons to be learned from Tuesday’s news that Procter & Gamble plans to shutter the Rochas fashion house despite PRIANO.COM; MAKEUP BY NAOMI MAKEUP BY PRIANO.COM; widespread acclaim for its designer, Olivier Theyskens, say observers. The move also underscores the increasing challenges for a luxury fashion label that hasn’t been able to diversify into other product categories BY DAVID MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHY DAVID BY successfully. In the past few seasons, Theyskens See Lessons, Page 13 EL: LISALLA/NEW MODELS; HAIR YORK PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MOD KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ The mix-and-match game is a fashion mainstay, especially with a lineup A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 of terrifi c denim pieces of the affordable sort, all less than $50 wholesale. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL P&G’s closing of Rochas despite designer Olivier Theyskens’ praise from COLOR CODING 1 critics underscores the challenges of a luxe label that hasn’t diversifi ed. What Certain Hues Say About You Retail shares rebounded Wednesday, joining a rally spurred by Federal 3 Reserve chairman Ben Bernanke’s remarks that infl ation might ease. “I’ve always been loyal to my colors,” says men, their goal when getting dressed is to look Accessory Network Group has retained Financo to explore strategic the legendary Elizabeth Taylor in the August 2006 like everyone else and not stand out,” explains 3 alternatives for the upscale Ghurka brand it acquired in February 2003. Harper’s Bazaar. Naturally, she adds, “I love violet.” Jen Drechsler, Director of Brand Insights for A federal court judge in Maryland overturned a state law mandating a Such statement provokes a thought: do everyday Just Ask A Woman, a consultancy based in New 3 specifi c level of health care coverage aimed at Wal-Mart Stores. women have “colors” and use them to their York. “Women choose colors that help them look EYE: When the author is Amazonian nightlife queen Amy Sacco and the advantage to make a statement or their best, that accentuate their 4 tome is called “Cocktails,” a book signing can turn into a swanky affair. perhaps, at the most basic level, positives and make an outfit DENIM: A rebound in Lee jeans and double-digit gains from Vans and The blend in with the crowd? uniquely their own.” 8 North Face kept the momentum rolling at VF Corp. in the second quarter. To some degree, they actually “I would have guessed that blue BEAT: What’s old is new again for XOXO, the junior brand acquired by do — or should, according to would be a favorite among men Global Brand Holdings in July 2003 that’s in a growth spurt. Jeannine McShane, a human since it’s a safe choice for business 9 resources consultant in Central or casual,” Hoffman considers. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 14-15 Florida; who says she makes It also comes down to a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. conscious and deliberate color question of availability of colors [email protected], using the individual’s name. choices when getting dressed for for the genders. “Men don’t really WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the day. “If I am interviewing, have as many options as women VOLUME 192, NO. 12. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- I tend to favor grays, blues and when it comes to color at retail; ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, blacks to convey a professional I also don’t think that they tend Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers and serious image. If I am making to favor bright colors in their Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and wardrobes for the every day, so C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; a presentation or teaching a class, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior I choose something vibrant and you see lots of blues and grays, Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance pleasing to the eye that will make especially in the workplace,” Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. “I design with so much color Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. people think that I am interesting Dupuis states. “Retailers provide 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable and fun and someone that they throughout the collection and I plenty of options in these hues and Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS think that different colors have dif- CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, would like to pay attention to.” often in interesting textures.” ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “Color can sway a mood,” ferent emotions. The same dress Sometimes more is less, at least DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four in black is different from the same weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. observes Claire Dupuis, a senior when it comes to color choices. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other trend forecaster at Cotton dress in red, and you can just Perhaps because they have more U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. imagine how different the same First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Incorporated. “Color is the first color options, 69% of female and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions thing we observe and it often sets thing in brown might be.” respondents told the Monitor and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To —Mara Hoffman, subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make a tone; red is exciting, blue can be that they could easily find the our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would soothing, white can signal purity. Designer colors that they like, compared interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Color does speak.” with the slightly greater 73% of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Designer Mara Hoffman admits to being male respondents who said they generally found SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, influenced by color when creating her signature the colors that they liked. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED dresses, skirts and tops. “I design with so much color “Today’s garments have great qualities that throughout the collection and I think that different make them ideal for the workplace or especially colors have different emotions. The same dress in for those times when you want and need to look black is different from that same your best, like at a meeting or In Brief dress in red, and you can just WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE COLOR TO WEAR? on an interview,” McShane imagine how different the same advises. “Look for garments ● RISING SPAR: Art Spar has been promoted to president of thing in brown might be.” WOMEN MEN that will still appear fresh at the NPD Group’s apparel tracking services, while retaining his The message colors convey end of the day.” She also says BLUE 23% 51% responsibility for apparel client development at the consumer is influenced by a variety of to be judicious with one’s color research fi rm. Spar, who had been vice president of apparel PINK/ROSE 16% 2% factors, old and new. At Cotton choices. “I have interviewed client development, is overseeing sales, product management, BLACK 13% 15% Incorporated’s recent panel people and been so distracted marketing, research sciences and custom research functions RED 13% 7% discussion, “Beyond White: by the color or pattern that at the company. The promotion comes one year after NPD’s GREEN 10% 6% The Psychology of Color,” they were wearing that it was acquisition of the former STS Market Research, where Spar PURPLE/LAVENDER 5% 2% was chairman and chief executive offi cer. He reports to Dennis Dr. Joerg Bose of the William hard to concentrate on what BROWN/BEIGE/TAN 3% 4% Brown, the NPD group president responsible for the group’s Alanson Institute said, “The they were saying. That’s not a fashion, beauty, home and sports divisions, as well as consumer TWO OR MORE COLORS 3% 2% experience of color is so good way to sell yourself.” and commercial technology. amazingly powerful that is Drechsler, the consultant, ● SLANE NAMES SEILER: Slane and Slane, the 11-year-old fine no surprise people throughout the centuries have thinks that color is just one consideration in jewelry company, has named Roberta Seiler director of market- sought to connect it with something meaningful getting dressed for the day. “I don’t know if there ing. Seiler, former director of luxury promotion at Vogue maga- beyond the experience, itself.” Bose adds, “Today, are happy colors, but I think women have happy zine, will report to Slane chief operating officer Marion Davidson the meaning of colors is first communicated to us clothes. Those are the garments that she comes when she starts on Aug. 9 at the New York-based firm. Seiler re- through culture, through fashion and through the back to time and again when she wants to feel places Laura Henson, who left in March to open a consultancy. media before we know what they signify to us.” good.” Slane and Slane sells its handcrafted gold and silver jewelry to According to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle McShane agrees but adds that the right color Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and independent retailers. ™ Monitor , when asked what their favorite color to choice can sometimes make a difference. “My ● CLAIBORNE OUTLET HEAD: Liz Claiborne Inc. has tapped wear was, nearly one-quarter of female respondents husband likes to wear a red cotton golf shirt when Andrew McLean to be president of its outlet division. McLean has cited blue. “When I started my business, people he’s making a presentation; he says it’s a power color been with the company since 2003, and has served as vice presi- always told me that a blue dress will always be a and wears well. After all, the color red has served dent and group operations director since last year. In his new role, best seller,” tells Hoffman.” When you think Tiger Woods very well on plenty of Sundays!” he will be responsible for all aspects of the domestic outlet busi- ness. McLean replaces Paul Thomasset, who has left Claiborne. about it, blue encompasses a shade range broad This story is one in a series of articles based on find- enough to match most any complexion. You can ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ ● VIETNAM’S DUE DATE: Vietnam, a major apparel ex- have turquoise in the summer, navy in the colder tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these months, and cobalts and light blues throughout the porter, is on track to complete its bid to join the World Trade pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it Organization by early October, the official overseeing the ac- year. Blue provides so many options.” relates to the American consumer and her attitudes cession talks said Wednesday. Ambassador Eirik Glenne of Interestingly enough, blue was the easy favorite and behavior regarding clothing, Norway said his target is to have the WTO’s general council among men. Half of the male respondents cited appearance, fashion, fiber selection and vote on Vietnam when it meets Oct. 10-11. Some issues that still blue as their favorite color to wear. “I think with many other timely, relevant subjects. need to be sorted out include an easing of trading rights for foreign enterprises and streamlining laws on excise taxes and intellectual property rights. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 3 WWD.COM Retail Shares Join Rally Sale of Ghurka Might Be Near By Evan Clark 11,011.42. The Nasdaq was up 37.49, or By Sophia Chabbott 1.8 percent, to 2,080.71 and the S&P 500 WASHINGTON — Retail shares rebounded climbed 22.95, or 1.9 percent, to 1,259.81. NEW YORK — Accessory Network Group ap- on Wednesday, joining a stock market rally Despite the rebound in retail stocks, pears ready to unload the upscale Ghurka spurred by Federal Reserve chairman Ben Robert Buchanan, retail industry group brand, WWD has learned. Bernanke, who suggested that two years of leader at A.G. Edwards & Sons, said, “In light of the recent LeSportsac acquisi- interest rate increases might be nearing “Clearly the negatives outweigh the posi- tion, we are reviewing our portfolio strategy,” an end. tives in terms of forces being exerted on said Abe Chehebar, chairman and chief A day after retail stocks tumbled when consumer spending and the negatives, of executive offi cer of ANG, which acquired Target lowered its July sales forecast amid course, include high gas prices, high oil Ghurka in February 2003 through its af- concerns about consumer spending, the prices, high interest rates” and new rules fi liate, Vergier Holdings. “To this end, we Standard & Poor’s retail index rose 2.8 on minimum credit card payments. are considering strategic alternatives for percent to 427.07, regaining the ground lost On Tuesday, A.G. Edwards downgraded the luxury brand Ghurka, and we have re- Bags from Ghurka’s when shares in the sector fell 2 percent on the 32 stocks in its retailing group to “un- tained Financo to assist us with this process.” fall collection. Tuesday. derweight” from “even weight.” Ghurka, based in Norwalk, Conn., was ANG’s Among the retailers that gained were: Bernanke said inflation remained a fi rst effort in the luxury accessories business. Abercrombie & Fitch, up 4.1 percent to $53.05; concern, and a government report Tuesday ANG, a privately held fi rm, is primarily an accessories licensing and man- Cache Inc., 5.1 percent to $17.07; Federated said prices were still going up. ufacturing business, with headquarters and factories here and in Hong Kong. Department Stores, 4.9 percent to $34.95; Retail prices on women’s apparel grew ANG produces private label accessories for mass distribution and holds Limited Brands, 3.7 percent to $24.65, and by a seasonally adjusted 1 percent in June a bevy of licenses, including Disney properties, Bratz and various Warner Wal-Mart Stores, 2.4 percent to $44.20. Target and helped boost the Labor Department’s Brothers names. shares inched ahead 0.4 percent to $45.72. Consumer Price Index for all goods and ANG last year acquired LeSportsac for a reported $100 million, as well as Bernanke said during testimony before the services by 0.2 percent, its slowest growth the license to produce better handbags and hats for Calvin Klein. In May, the Senate Banking, Housing and Urban Affairs in four months. fi rm announced a partnership with Isaac Mizrahi to produce a line of bridge committee that the economy is in “a period of Excluding the volatile food and energy cat- handbags under the Isaac Isaac Mizrahi label for spring 2007. transition’’ and seems to be slowing. egories, “core” prices increased 0.3 percent Ghurka opened a Chicago outpost in August 2004 and relocated its New “One likely source of this deceleration for the fourth consecutive month. This makes Yo r k fl agship in April 2005 to 683 Madison Avenue, with plans to open 10 to 12 was higher energy prices, which have ad- for an annualized growth rate of 3.6 percent boutiques in the U.S. by 2010. Last September, the fi rm named John Bartlett as versely affected the purchasing power of during the past three months, well above creative director, replacing Simeon Turnbull, who tried to give the bags more households and weighed on consumer at- Bernanke’s target rate of 1 to 2 percent. of an edge with metallic leather-trimmed totes and rustic hobos with horn de- titudes,” he said. “It is indeed possible that the Fed is tails. The fi rst of Bartlett’s handbags, which are classic and truer to Ghurka’s The Fed has raised interest rates to 5.25 nearly done,” said Nigel Gault, chief U.S. roots with a stingray clutch and smooth leather totes, start selling this fall, percent from 1 percent in June 2004 and economist at Global Insight, which is pro- with retail prices of $550 to $1,850. will meet Aug. 8 to decide on the overnight jecting another 25 basis point increase in An advertising campaign for the women’s collection is planned for spring. lending rate. Bernanke acknowledged the interest rates when the open market com- Bartlett also said he is exploring footwear, outerwear and ready-to-wear for 17 straight increases, saying, “We must mittee meets. “But we still see clear and the brand. take account of the possible future effects growing risks that the Fed will have to do In May, Chehebar said Ghurka’s sales jumped 30 percent compared with of previous policy actions — that is, of pol- more,” Gault said in a report. “The infl a- last year because of the store openings, better inventory management, in- icy effects still ‘in the pipeline.’’’ tion fi gures will get worse before they get creased supply and brand awareness as a result of an aggressive public rela- The Dow Jones Industrial Average better and the Fed may have to do more to tions and marketing campaign. jumped 212.19, or 2 percent, to close at keep infl ationary expectations in check.”

District Court in Baltimore that the federal Employee Retirement Income Security Act “invali- Health Law Aimed at Wal-Mart Overturned dated” state and local laws regulating employee By Kristi Ellis ponents who allege it provides inadequate health ben- health benefi t plans. efi ts. The Bentonville, Ark.-based company this year “This law did nothing to control the cost of health WASHINGTON — A federal court judge on Wednesday said that for the fi rst time it would allow part-time care or improve access to health care, so it’s no won- overturned a Maryland law that would have required workers to enroll their children in the health insur- der that legislators in 28 other states rejected this as Wal-Mart to boost spending for employee health care. ance plan and established a new plan with monthly bad public policy,” a Wal-Mart spokeswoman said. U.S. District Court Judge J. Frederick Motz, upholding premiums as low as $11 for individuals that would “We’re providing real solutions to bring more afford- arguments made in a lawsuit fi led by the Retail Industry apply to as many as half its employees by 2007. able and accessible health care to our associates and Leaders Association, concluded that the law “imposes RILA, which represents Wal-Mart and other mass their families.” legally cognizable injury upon Wal-Mart...by requiring it merchants, fi led two lawsuits in February against The ruling was a setback for the AFL-CIO, which to track and allocate benefi ts for its Maryland employees Maryland and Suffolk County, N.Y., seeking to overturn had launched an initiative to pursue legislation in in a manner different from that in which it tracks and al- two health care benefi t mandates for large companies. more than 30 states that would force employers to pro- locates benefi ts for its employees in other states.” California and Colorado were among other states con- vide a specifi ed level of health care coverage. The Maryland law would have required all employ- sidering similar bills. “Today’s decision by the Maryland Federal District ers with 10,000 or more employees — only Wal-Mart “The decision sends a clear signal that employer Court to overturn the state’s Fair Share Health Care — to spend as much as 8 percent of their total wages health plans are governed by federal law, not a patch- law is an affront to working people,” AFL-CIO presi- paid on employee health benefi ts. The law was to take work of state and local laws,’’ Sandy Kennedy, presi- dent John Sweeney said in a statement. “The Fair effect Jan. 1. dent of RILA, said in a statement. “It also is a clear Share Health Care law would stop large, profi table The world’s largest retailer, which is the biggest message that similar bills under consideration in other corporations from shifting their employees’ health private employer in the U.S. with 1.3 million workers, states and municipalities violate federal law.” care insurance costs on to workers, taxpayers and has come under fi re from labor unions and other op- RILA asserted in the lawsuit fi led in the U.S. smaller businesses.”

Bath & Body Works, Foot Locker and The Children’s Place, among other Federated Sells Strawbridge’s Building stores. PREIT bought Strawbridge’s to convert the site in a way that en- By David Moin hances the mall. “We want it to con- tinue to be a retail anchor,” said NEW YORK — Federated Department Stores Inc. is divesting itself of another his- Joseph F. Coradino, president of toric downtown flagship — Strawbridge’s in Philadelphia. PREIT Services, the management The company said Wednesday that it has agreed to sell the 550,000-square-foot company that manages and leases all Strawbridge’s building to Pennsylvania Real Estate Investment Trust [PREIT] for PREIT malls. “We’ll probably end up an undisclosed price. with 200,000 square feet of retail, and The deal marks another step forward in Federated’s strategy to jettison 80 loca- the upper fl oors will probably be of- tions acquired in last year’s acquisition of May Department Stores. The units are in fi ce space.” shopping malls and cities where Federated already has a store or two. Coradino said discussions with Last week, Federated announced that it would sell the landmark Filene’s fl ag- traditional and discount department stores and category killers are being held. He ship in Boston to Vornado Realty Trust, which is expected to convert that store to expects to have a tenant by year’s end. condominiums, offi ces and some new retail space. In that case, Federated disclosed Federated continues to have a presence in downtown Philadelphia with a Macy’s the $100 million purchase price because the amount was material to both compa- unit set to open Aug. 2 in another historic site, the former John Wanamaker fl ag- nies. The Strawbridge’s deal is not considered material, said Federated spokesman ship, which has been operating as a Lord & Taylor unit. Federated inherited Lord Jim Sluzewski. He added that the proceeds from this transaction are included in & Taylor in the May acquisition and last month announced an almost $2 billion deal the previously announced $400 million to $500 million after-tax total anticipated to sell L&T to NRDC Equity Partners. from the sale of duplicate stores nationwide. The Strawbridge’s transaction is expected to be completed in the third quarter Federated has announced buyers for 58 duplicate locations, including of 2006. Pennsylvania Real Estate Investment Trust owns 54 retail properties, in- Strawbridge’s, a Philadelphia icon that opened in 1868 and occupied eight levels of cluding 40 shopping malls and 14 strip malls and power centers, totaling nearly 33.4 a 15-story building. The store closed last month. The other levels are offi ces. million square feet in 14 states. The company also provides management, leasing Strawbridge’s anchors a moderate-priced urban mall owned by PREIT called and development services to 18 retail properties occupying a total of 6.9 million The Gallery at Market East, which also houses Kmart, Old Navy, Burlington Coat, square feet, as well as six offi ce buildings and two multifamily properties. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 WWD.COM Blonde Ambition Trading Spaces NEW YORK — Book signings may call to mind staid affairs held in the middle of the afternoon at Borders or Barnes & Noble, NEW YORK — “Filth.” “Ecstasy.” “Porno.” “The but when the author is Amazonian nightlife queen Amy Sacco Bedroom Secrets of the Master Chefs.” Which and the tome is called “Cocktails,” you know it’s going to be a title doesn’t seem to belong? swankier affair. The party, held on Tuesday night at Barneys Though the latest book from author Irvine Welsh, New York, was scheduled to out from W.W. Norton next month, is notably less begin at 7 p.m., and by 7:15 pithy in name than his previous works, it lacks none there were enough people to fi ll of the drunken binges, sexual exploits and expletive- Bungalow 8 for an entire week. dense dialogue that have been his trademark since The Krug champagne fl owed; his 1993 breakout novel, “Trainspotting.” the nightclub’s resident DJ, Set predominantly in Edinburgh (Welsh’s Coleman Feltes, blasted hits by birthplace and the site of most of his stories), Madonna and Gwen Stefani, and “Bedroom Secrets” juxtaposes the lives of two virtually everyone stood on line seemingly opposite characters: the womanizing to have their copies inscribed by alcoholic Danny Skinner and the goody-two- Sacco, who was sitting at a table shoes, virginal Brian Kibby. When Kibby begins in the back, sipping a fancy work in Skinner’s offi ce, the fi ctional Edinburgh concoction in a martini glass. Council health inspection agency, the latter To her friend, André Balazs, she develops an irrational, all-consuming hatred wrote: “I Love U. XO Amy…The for his new colleague. Through an inexplicable Other Blonde.” To Paul Shaffer, hex, Skinner and Kibby essentially switch bodies whom Sacco met over a — Skinner’s bar fi ght wounds and hangovers decade ago at the Empire manifest themselves in Kibby — and with his Paul Shaffer and Amy Sacco State Building while on a newly cleaned-up physique, Skinner embarks fi eld trip to New York from Tinsley on a search for his long-lost father, whom he her native New Jersey, she Mortimer becomes increasingly convinced is the celebrity dashed off: “My fi rst star and chef Alan De Fretais. still my favorite. XO Amy.” The novel’s title comes from a fi ctional book of Others in the crowd included the same name that De Fretais’ character has just Sandra Bernhard, Ronald Perelman, written. But Welsh’s work is less an exposé of the fellow nightclub impresario David food industry than an Rabin, Tinsley Mortimer, Vanity exploration of warring Sandra Bernhard Fair’s Elizabeth Saltzman and human emotions. and Simon Doonan Sacco’s mother, Bette Sacco. “I kind of liked the Sacco, who was decked out in idea of this yin and a fl irty party dress, said she was yang; in a lot of ways overwhelmed. “I feel like Dorothy they’re very close to landing in Oz,” was how she put each other, but they it around 9:15 p.m., when the line seem very different on fi nally tapered off. In fact, she the surface,” explains said, doing a book was never the author of his even a real part of her master protagonists. “I liked plan for conquering New the idea that Skinner York. “When Prosper and would at fi rst seem to Martine Assouline came to be this really bad guy, a me,” Sacco recalled, “I said I sort of philanderer, and couldn’t possibly fi nd the time. But Kibby would be this they said, ‘Just give us some recipes and nice, quiet, wee guy we’ll call Patrick McMullan,’ who is the who lives at home with his mother. But once you documentarian of my life, ‘and we’ll got into the characters, you’d actually see there is make it work.’ And Assouline’s books Monika quite a bit of humanity in Skinner, whereas Kibby are so stylish and classy.” Chiang is kind of maybe just a bit repressed and a bit So she said yes. messed up, particularly in his sexual politics and But if the newly minted scribe appeared to be his attitude towards women.” surprised by her adventure in book publishing, no one else was. “The thing that’s If the clash between Skinner and Kibby calls most impressive about Amy is her longevity,” Shaffer said. “She’s got great legs, to mind that famous literary coupling, Dr. Jekyll David and I mean that in both senses of the word.” and Mr. Hyde, it is no coincidence. Rabin And she’d better, because her night was going to go on. And on. And on. “The idea of this duality of the persona and The second leg of her evening occurred at Bette, with her mom, where Balazs, is a big thing in Scottish culture because of André Saltzman and Uma Thurman joined Sacco for dinner. She then hightailed it over to Scotland’s relationship with the rest of Britain,” Balazs Bungalow 8, where Lenny Kravitz stopped by to pay his respects. At 3:30 a.m., when says Welsh. “It’s a metaphor for the national the crowd had more than thinned out, Sacco and friends were still going strong. psyche, in a way. There’s that kind of duality: We want to be Scots, but we sort of quite like the idea of being British, as well.” Welsh is no stranger to dualities of the more personal sort. “Trainspotting” was inspired by his SPRING ROLE own drug-heavy experience in the early Nineties, NEW YORK — Like most successful performers, 19-year-old stage but he has had his cleaner moments, too. actress Lea Michele has one of those “Star Is Born” moments in “I’ve always been quite boom and bust. I’ve her repertoire. Hers just happened to strike when she was eight. had phases when I would go for six months kind Growing up in New Jersey, Michele, who is currently starring of partying and then I would go very sporty for in the hit Off-Broadway rock musical “Spring Awakening,” another six months…just kind of playing football went to an open call for the Broadway production of “Les and looking after myself and going to the gym,” Miserables,” but only because a friend wanted to audition. explains Welsh. “And then I’d get fed up with that “I learned ‘Angel of Music’ from ‘Phantom of the Opera,’” and be back out on the tear again.” says the fresh-faced Michele, digging into some granola at Now 48, living in Dublin and happily married Alice’s Tea Cup on the Upper West Side, not far from her since last summer, the writer has much less time studio apartment here. Her mother was a nurse and her father for the party cycle. Welsh recently directed a owned a deli; neither had any familiarity with the business. music video for British band Keane; his play, “It was the only show I’d ever seen,” she explains. Lea Michele “Babylon Heights,” about the rumored suicide of Of course, as these stories tend to go, Michele — not her a Munchkin on the set of “The Wizard of Oz,” just friend — was cast in the roles of Young Cosette and Young as dewy and exuberant as she is. Her parents and peers have fi nished its San Francisco run; he soon will be Eponine. She went on to snag parts in the original Broadway cast been as supportive of her decision to skip college for her career directing the fi lm version of the novel “The Man of “Ragtime” and the recent revival of “Fiddler on the Roof.” — she was accepted to Tisch in 2004 but felt she didn’t want Who Walks,” and he is starting work on the pilot This fall, she’ll graduate to grown-up Eponine and sing to be taught “how to work with a director” — as they have been for a Channel Four television series. “On My Own” — every girl’s dream — in a Broadway revival of her working with such racy material. (She’s still your typical But the sober — or at least more sober — life of “Les Miserables” after fi nishing her current run as Wendla teen. MTV’s “The Hills” is “my oxygen,” she says.) suits the older, mature Welsh. in “Spring Awakening.” (It plays at the Atlantic Theater “I’m in a see-through nightgown and in a beating scene,” “Just to be social I will do the odd line of Company through Aug. 5 and will transfer to Broadway at a Michele admits, somewhat surprised at how far the show has cocaine or a pill or all that. But I can’t really date to be announced.) Written by Steven Sater and Duncan taken her. “A friend told me, ‘I didn’t know that side of you.’” A go and seek out drugs,” he says of his current Sheik and based on an 1891 play by Frank Webekind, particularly climactic moment has the actress baring her breast, lifestyle. “I think you get to the point where “Spring Awakening” traces a group of German schoolchildren though “it’s tastefully done,” she insists. There are stipulations you’re kind of bored with it because when you’ve experimenting with their sexuality. There is masturbation, to the display: If any family members are in the audience, she’s done everything, been in every possible scene sadomasochism, implied rape, adolescent pregnancy and contractually allowed to skip it. The same isn’t true for her you can with all that kind of degradation, after a homosexuality. “I get chills every night I sing this music,” male co-star, Jonathan Groff, who, no matter the crowd, has to while you know how the night’s going to pan out. says Michele. “It’s like nothing you’ve ever heard.” bare his backside. “But that’s just a butt,” Michele explains, You start to anticipate the hangover before you’re “Spring Awakening” marks the fi rst time Michele is not the bursting out laughing. “Who’s looking at that anyway?” actually enjoying the intoxication.” youngest cast member on stage — the show is fi lled with talent — Marshall Heyman — Vanessa Lawrence PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; MICHELE BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA STEVE EICHNER; MICHELE BY PHOTOS BY PARTY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006

What’s more fun for a fashion-eal-life, NEW YORK — set? The r irl than a paper doll ly loving g game, of course — especial Jean Queen c denim pieces of mix-and-match terrifi when she can play with $50 wholesale. le sort, all less than the affordab

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1. Guess’ cotton top, $40. 4. Cotton and Lycra spandex vest from 6. A. Kurtz’s cotton mini, $35. 2. Digs NYC’s cotton jacket, $50. DKNY Jeans Juniors, $34.50. 7. Levi’s cotton and Lycra jeans, $36.09. 3. Cotton and spandex jeans from Pepe Jeans London, $45. 5. Jolt’s cotton, polyester and spandex jacket, $15. 8. Accessory Network’s cotton bag, $12. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 7 WWD.COM

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14

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9. Keds’ denim sneakers, $14.75. 12. A. Kurtz’s cotton cap, $19. On the model: 10. Esprit’s cotton skirt, $19.50. 13. Rocawear’s stretch cotton jacket, $40. Rampage’s cotton and nylon bra and panties;

11. Paper Denim & Cloth’s stretch cotton jeans, $40. 14. Periscope’s cotton dress, $14. Stuart Weitzman shoes. NAOMI/ MAKEUP BY MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM; DAVID ERICKSEN; MODEL: LISALLA/NEW MODELS; HAIR BY YORK KYLE PHOTOS BY YASSKY DAVID BILLMAN; STYLED BY STACY ASSISTANT: FASHION HYE WON PARK; BECCA; PHOTO ASSISTANT: ARTISTSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO.COM/FOR 8 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 WWD.COM Denim Report VF Quarter Boosted by Lee Rebound By Ross Tucker maintain a double-digit growth rate. Tuesday, based largely on the company’s The outdoor segment, which includes exposure in the mass channel. NEW YORK — VF Corp. kept the momen- the Vans, Reef and North Face brands, “While VF continues to exhibit best- tum going in the second quarter with a continues to propel sales, with revenues of-class execution and strong inventory rebound in its Lee jeans business and shooting up 23.5 percent to $371 million disciplines, it is not immune to softening double-digit gains from the Vans and The from $300.4 million a year ago. The Vans, consumer trends, especially in the lower- North Face brands. JanSport, Reef and Kipling brands re- end mass channel impacted by high en- VF Corp. on Wednesday reported its ported revenue increases in excess of ergy prices,” Slater said in the report. 11th consecutive quarter of record sales 20 percent, while North Face revenues The downgrade, said the report, was not and earnings. increased 16 percent in what is typically related to the company’s performance “[Our transformation] is playing out the brand’s slowest time of the year. Vans, during the quarter, “but rather a function just as we outlined it two years ago,” in particular, stole some of the limelight of deteriorating consumer fundamentals Mackey McDonald, chairman and chief during the quarter, posting a 50 percent and slowing retail dynamics.” executive offi cer, said during a confer- rise in comparable-store sales. McDonald acknowledged that the com- ence call with analysts. “The even better Wiseman said Vans “far outperformed pany would naturally be affected by a sus- news is we’re achieving growth across our most optimistic assumptions,” and that tained economic downturn, but he pointed most of our businesses.” the brand would be key in the company’s out that the mass channel accounts for 33 For the three months ending in June, plans to expand its company-owned retail Our work to turn percent of revenues and that sales have earnings for the Greensboro, N.C.-based ap- operations. “If you’ve got a format and a “ consistently risen through several econom- parel giant rose 2.4 percent to $99 million, brand that is delivering comps of 50 per- around the Lee brand in ic cycles. He also touted the strength of the or 88 cents a diluted share, compared with cent, you’d be wise to get on that,” he said. VF brands as a point of differentiation. earnings of $96.7 million, or 85 cents a share, The intimate apparel division contin- the U.S. is beginning to “Sometimes, when a consumer gets in the same period a year ago. Revenues for ued to struggle, with revenues declining more selective, if you have the best fash- the quarter rose 7.9 percent to $1.57 billion 3.4 percent to $215.5 million from $223.2 take hold. ion and innovation and great prices, you from $1.45 billion. Sales rose 7.8 percent to million. However, McDonald said the — Eric” Wiseman, VF Corp. reap the reward of that,” McDonald said. $1.55 billion from $1.44 billion. rate of decline has “slowed signifi cantly.” “What we’re seeing at this time gives us A turnaround in the struggling Lee Management forecasts revenues to be fl at has trailed off. The most recent acquisition encouragement.…we feel comfortable business was a standout in the compa- for the second half. came in March 2005, when the company ac- with where we are.” ny’s jeanswear division. Jeanswear rev- Imagewear revenues rose 4.3 percent quired Reef Holdings. Ever since, analysts For the fi rst half of the year, earnings enues increased 6 percent to $638.2 mil- to $188.5 million, driven by higher sales of have tried to gain insight into the next po- climbed 13.8 percent to $227.2 million, lion, spurred by strong domestic sales industrial uniforms. The sportswear seg- tential acquisition target and have come up or $2.02 a share, from $199.6 million, or and double-digit gains in Latin America, ment, which includes Nautica and John empty. McDonald headed off the obligatory $1.75 a share. Revenues rose 6.5 percent Mexico and China. Varvatos, reported revenues up 5.1 per- acquisition question in his remarks. to $3.23 billion from $3.03 billion. Sales “This was a great quarter for our cent to $141.2 million from $134.4 million. “As you know, today’s environment is also rose 6.5 percent, to $3.19 billion. jeanswear team,” Eric Wiseman, presi- VF’s growth strategy has hinged on very competitive, and we will not com- The outdoor segment led revenue dent and chief operating officer, said moving away from its roots as a large man- promise our fi nancial and strategic crite- growth, with a 29.2 percent gain to $756.7 during the call. “Our work to turn around ufacturer of category apparel goods to de- ria,” he said. “It does mean that we need million. Jeanswear revenue rose 2 per- the Lee brand in the U.S. is beginning to veloping and acquiring a portfolio of fl ash- to look at a lot more opportunities, which cent to $1.34 billion, Intimates fell 5.6 per- take hold, with revenues up 11 percent in ier lifestyle brands. The strategy has paid is exactly what we’re doing.” cent to $425.6 million, Imagewear grew 3.9 the quarter, and we expect Lee to end the off with booming sales and earnings. Wall McDonald also used the call to ad- percent to $382.5 million and sportswear year up slightly versus 2005.” Street has responded, sending shares up dress concerns that have been raised re- rose 3.5 percent to $304.2 million. Wiseman said the boost was attributable more than 87 percent since the beginning garding how an economic downturn could The strong results prompted manage- to retailers stocking up on inventory based of 2003. Shares reached a new 52-week negatively impact the spending habits of ment to up its earnings guidance for the on the strength of new Lee products. While high of $68.58 in intraday trading on the a large portion of the company’s consum- year. Earnings per share are expected management expects Lee to continue grow- New York Stock Exchange on Wednesday. er base. Lazard Capital Markets analyst to be $5, up from a previous estimate ing through the rest of the year, Wiseman Despite the success and ample cash on Todd Slater downgraded VF to a “hold” of $4.95. Revenues are expected to rise said it was unlikely that the brand would its balance sheet, the pace of acquisitions rating in a research report released on about 7 percent to approach $7 billion. Clean Slate for Denim at Berlin Shows By Damien McGuinness the denim boom, new silhouettes and Pepe is getting playful with skinny more sophisticated washes are set to three-quarter lengths with a waist as BERLIN — Organizers of the Bread & bring renewed energy into the market. high as an Empire line, paired with a Butter trade show said the Berlin edi- Manufacturers agreed that the narrow cropped gingham blouse. tion will be smaller going forward. leg, which appeared in the mainstream While waists have moved up, and the During a news conference on the fi nal about a year ago, has now fully estab- days of very low-rise seemingly past, la- day of the fair last week, Karl Heinz lished itself. bels such as Erwin, Mavi and Mustang Müller, one of the show’s managing di- “The drainpipe is defi nitely here to are playing safe by keeping to a moder- rectors, said selectivity will be the focus stay and has completely replaced the boot ately low or medium-rise. of the fair here next season. Bread & cut,” said Aemkei designer Eva Renes. “Women don’t want a high waist,” Butter Barcelona will continue to grow Jeans have gotten slimmer across the said Serdar Mazmanoglu, a member of to include a new section for higher-end board, with Scandinavian brands such as Mavi’s board. “It’s just not fl attering.” urbanwear, while Berlin will narrow to Nudie, which went skinny as early as 2000, Selling high-waist styles has been dif- between 400 and 500 exhibitors. going as far as stretch leggings-style jeans. fi cult for Lee, as well. “We want to build up a more special- Pepe’s Eighties-inspired, supertight “Last year, with our fi rst Lee Gold ized event and invite like-minded labels drainpipe appears more like pantyhose collection, we went up to the navel with Looks from the new Wrangler Blue Bella line. which fi t together culturally,” Müller than trousers, and even more tradition- a Marilyn Monroe-inspired fi t, but it said. “It’s like a party. You want the right al brands such as Mustang have moved didn’t work,” said Simon Overhaus, a Colors are equally muted, with faded people who know how to dance, sing and away from the boot cut to a straighter, sales representative for Lee in Germany. olive and mud tones at Mustang, or pastels have a good time.” slimmer leg. “It was just too early for that.” at Aemkei. Nudie is one of the few manu- Although attendance at Bread & The most adventurous brands are Many labels also stressed the increas- facturers committing to bright colors with Butter and Premium was down from going a step further by moving to a car- ing importance of lighter cotton fabrics. canary yellow or bright red drainpipes. last season — Bread & Butter reported rot fi t. Lee’s new Protest line, inspired “We believe that light cotton mixes, “It’s almost a Nineties color, except 20,000 visitors and Premium 15,000 — ex- by the Sixties antiwar movement, are such as gabardine, twill and linen mixes, this time round, the boot cut has gone, hibitors said they were pleased with the baggy around the thigh and narrow at will become a big theme,” said Holger and the denim is much lighter — 10 or quality of visitors. Heiner Sefranek, chief the ankle. With an extremely high rise, Hirsch, managing director of Timezone. 11 ounces, instead of 13,” Mauske said. executive offi cer of Mustang, said his the jeans can be worn low on the hips, “Denim will remain important, but less With its new Blue Bella collection, stand was busier then ever, particularly giving a baggy crotch, while a twisted, so than before.” Wrangler is rediscovering a bright with business from Asia. The company is reconstructed seam makes the fi t more Aemkei agrees, with 80 percent of Seventies-inspired blue. Shades of gray hoping to grow by 5 to 6 percent in 2006. fl attering. Aemkei is also bringing waists the collection now made up of light cot- are also popular. Lee has introduced a “A quieter fair means we have more up and using a carrot cut, although the ton mixes. And Mustang, while stressing gray-washed-down-from-indigo denim, time for people,” said Denis Mauske, the rise is not yet as high as it could be. that denim remains its core product, with the blue still visible underneath, German distributor for Nudie jeans, not- “High waists are not our most com- has also increased an emphasis on fl at and Aemkei ranges from a bluish “sum- ing that Nudie has seen growth of 30 per- mercial line, but we want to show the cottons, with faded patchwork skirts and mer gray” to a plaster white. cent per season in Germany in the last direction,” said Renes. “We may not yet pinstripe chinos. The all-in-one, workwear-inspired few years. “It suits us, because we are be up to the navel, but by winter of 2007 Whatever the fabric, the connection look is also important, whether it be very selective with our outlets anyway.” and 2008 we will be.” among them is a cleaner, more sophisticat- matching denim waistcoats at Pepe, Cleaner, darker and slimmer was the Nudie is also experimenting with a ed fi nish. Heavy distressed washes have slouchy hipster dungarees at Mavi or verdict for spring and summer denim high-rise carrot fi t worn low on the hips been replaced by light rinses or unwashed jumpsuits at Aemkei. Another variation for 2007 at the show, which ran here for or high on the waist. selvage, and detailing is subtle, such as is suspenders. At Lee, denim suspend- three days ending Sunday. “This is a bit braver and much less black-on-black stitching, or a discreet lace ers are paired with carrot-fit jeans, Despite fears of an imminent end to commercial,” Mauske said. trim on the inside of waistbands. while Pepe paired them with HotPants. WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 9 WWD.COM The Beat XOXO Takes Inspiration From the Past

By Julee Greenberg Ambrosio, a Brazilian model known best for her work with Victoria’s Secret. Ambrosio is shown in a variety of images, showcasing all of what the brand has to offer. She is NEW YORK — What’s old is new again pictured along with her signature reading “Hugs & Kisses, XOXO, Alessandra,” just for XOXO. as in the previous campaigns. The $250 million junior brand (at Cohen said he plans to continue with this ad concept for at least a year, changing retail), which was acquired by Global the faces every season. He has yet to name the spring face, but she will be known, Brand Holdings in July 2003, has gone and not necessarily a model. through a growth spurt in recent sea- “I like the idea of staying with models, and possibly bringing some recognition sons. In just over two years, the compa- back to them and making them news again,” Cohen said. “But that doesn’t mean it’s ny launched several licensed products, set in stone. We may switch things up.” including sunglasses, handbags, swim- To make this campaign authentic, wear, belts, cold weather accessories, the company has hired Laspata/DeCaro, costume jewelry, watches, children’s the ad agency that created and photo- wear and fragrance. With the sports- graphed the original “Hugs & Kisses” wear licensed to Kellwood Co., the ads. Laspata/DeCaro is also respon- brand also plans to kick off luggage, sible for the new company logo, which sleepwear and intimates in 2007. will make its debut in the ads. The logo With this product expansion, is cleaner and more contemporary, and XOXO will introduce a fall and holi- without the young, girly-looking hearts day ad campaign that may have a that were in the original. slightly déjà vu feel to it. In the early “The new logo is modern and Nineties, the company launched its fresh-looking for our brand,” Cohen “Hugs & Kisses” campaign, which fea- said. “I think it really displays our tured well-known faces like Christy brand direction.” Turlington, Tyra Banks and Claudia He would not disclose the compa- Schiffer, along with their signatures, ny’s ad budget for this campaign, but reading, for example: “Hugs & Kisses, said it will run in September issues of XOXO, Tyra Banks.” The success of Brazilian model Alessandra Ambrosio is the new face fashion magazines such as Elle and the marketing effort brought the XOXO of XOXO for fall and holiday. Right: Tyra Banks in the Cosmopolitan. The ads will also ap- brand the recognition it was seeking. original XOXO “Hugs & Kisses” campaign. pear in trade publications and in the “We were recently working on program for the Condé Nast Fashion a shoot with May Anderson, talking about the importance of supermodels in the Rocks event in September. The com- Nineties,” said Jeff Cohen, president of Earthbound LLC, the company Global Brand pany also plans an outdoor campaign Holdings hired to manage the XOXO brand. “Today it has become so much more ce- on telephone kiosks. lebrity-driven, but everyone does remember that campaign with Christy, Tyra and XOXO products are sold in better Claudia, who have all become celebrities in their own rights. So I thought it would be department stores such as Federated really cool to bring that campaign back, but in a more modern way.” and Dillard’s. It is also sold in special- That modern way, Cohen said, came with a recognizable face of today, Alessandra ty stores and on xoxo.com. Macy’s East Gets Psyched for Back-to-School NEW YORK — Macy’s East is revved up and ready for back-to-school. MACY’S EAST BACK-TO-SCHOOL TRENDS The retailer held its third annual junior vendor day here on Wednesday at the Metropolitan Pavilion at 125 ACTIVE MILITARY INSPIRED West 18th Street. About 1,000 store associates and ven- Keep It Casual Take a Stand dors in the juniors, young men’s and children’s areas ■ Hoodies ■ Cargo pants turned up to learn the trends, hear feedback from ■ T-shirts ■ Camo jackets Macy’s executives and get pumped to face customers ■ Vintage-inspired ■ Neutral colors in shopping for the b-t-s season. jackets T-shirts,pants “I am pleased with our progress,” said Ron Klein, ■ Distressed sweats chairman and chief executive offi cer of Macy’s East. ROCKER CHIC “But I think there is a lot of work to be done over the URBAN Dress the Part next 30 to 60 days.” Rock the Uniform ■ Leggings paired with ■ Track jackets with shorts and miniskirts matching pants ■ Black and grey skinny ■ Polo shirts jeans ■ Washed denim ■ Tattoo print tops

REBEL PREP DENIM Layer It Up All About Detail Here and ■ Polos ■ Skinny above: Lively ■ T-shirts ■ Dark wash models on the ■ Henleys ■ Embellished runway show ■ Tunics off the trends for back-to- school.

Ron Klein with Rob Smith, executive vice president and general merchandise manager for juniors, intimates, coats and dresses for Macy’s East.

Klein noted the importance of this year’s event, especially with the newly integrated stores from the Federated Department Stores-May Department Stores merger. He said that since many of these associates will see whole new departments in their stores, the event was an opportunity for them to learn about the merchandise they will be selling. Richie Rich and Traver Rains take the runway to introduce their After introductions from Klein and Randy Scalise, new Heatherette juniors line. Marc Ecko pumps up the crowd. executive vice president, director of stores, for Macy’s East, guests heard a pep talk from designer Marc Ecko Scalise said sales associates must understand the and watched a performance from Kevin Covais, an concerns of their customers, who are looking for fash- “American Idol” fi nalist, as well as a fashion show and ion direction. They need to learn about fi t, fi nish and dance performance. They then walked the fl oor, meet- how to wear the complete outfi t. ing with vendors in their various booths. “No customer should leave the store with one T- “This year is critical because of the transition,” shirt or one pair of jeans,” he said. “If we do it well, Scalise said. “These [young] customers have more they will leave with more.”

spending power than ever before.’’ — J.G. ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 WWD.COM Active Lifestyle NHL, Reebok Team Up for Women’s Line

By Whitney Beckett $1.5 billion annually in retail sales before the 2004-2005 strike, and league rep- resentatives expect to regain those fi gures this year. NEW YORK — Hockey, the sport of cross- Reebok acquired CCM, a Canadian-based company whose roots checking and elbow shots, is no longer just are in equipping hockey leagues, in 2004, and that marriage began a man’s game. Reebok’s work on NHL apparel. Fall 2006 is its most complete With women said to represent about 40 women’s line for the NHL. percent of the fans, the National Hockey “The CCM brand [is] a world-leading hockey manufacturer, League, in a licensing agreement with but really more on the equipment side,’’ said Greg Grauel, vice Reebok, will launch its most complete president of merchandising and licensed apparel at Reebok. line of women’s T-shirts, jackets and, “They weren’t as up to speed on the apparel end as we are in yes, even pink jerseys. Reebok. When we combined, we immediately focused on start- “I think there will be a lot of ing men’s and women’s product lines.” demand because there already was New Era Caps is also coming out with a line of women’s NHL before,” said Nirva Milford, an NHL hats this fall. The caps, which will wholesale from $9 to $12, are spokeswoman. “Teams have been im- redesigned to specifi cally fi t a woman’s head and to incorpo- provising because there was no women’s rate more fashion elements, like shine and rhinestones. line available to them. They would throw “If you look back historically at the market, what they their logo on generic items to meet the high did was take a men’s cap and offered it in pink,” said demand for women’s pieces before these Barbara Noyes, New Era’s business unit director for products came out.” women’s and children’s products. “But that would be two Reebok’s line of 22 pieces for the NHL will be sizes too big for the average woman’s head.” available in September, before the NHL’s season The NHL has been producing a limited line of starts Oct. 4, and will be carried at team stores, nhl. women’s products for about fi ve years. The league com and sporting goods chains. focused primarily on marketing one product to The collection offers a range of fi tted T-shirts and Two looks from NHL’s women — a female-fi tting jersey unveiled in fl eece zip-up sweatsuits in team colors, as well as fe- new women’s line. 2003. Teams were left to create their own prod- male-favored colors and designs, as opposed to limiting ucts to meet their individual market demands. options only to each team’s colors and logo. The so-called pink jersey is Based on past sales of improvised women’s available for each team with the name in white lettering, void of team products, Milford predicted that New York, logo or colors. The suggested retail price is about $17 for basic T-shirts, Detroit, Philadelphia, Edmonton, Toronto, $50 for decorated jerseys and $200 for jackets. Reebok would not re- Los Angeles and Anaheim, Calif., will be lease wholesale prices. A important markets for the new line. R “When we embarked on this about fi ve years ago, we miscalcu- IT Milford said she thinks the big M T lated the attention to detail in the cut and the make that women R question will be whether women will E B demand,” said Brian Jennings, NHL senior vice president of O follow the trend of their male coun- R Y consumer products marketing. “This line is more than just B terparts and personalize their jer- S O pinks and pastels. These are sophisticated fans, and we have T seys with player names. “I think O H made sophisticated products for them. ” P they will,” Milford said. “Women The NHL predicted women’s apparel sales will eventually favor certain players...for various make up more than 10 percent of business. The NHL was doing reasons.”

OUT OF TOUCH: Aaron — “Let’s be Bowie gay, not Cher MEMO PAD gay” — Hicklin will be unveiling his rejiggered Out magazine over the next three issues. So what, exactly, is more Ziggy Stardust than “If I Could Turn Back Time”? The September issue will feature a plumper fashion section with a 16-page story shot by Cass Bird. “It’s based on ‘Lord of the Flies,’” said Hicklin. There’s also a sitting using the cast of “History Boys” as Ralph Lauren models, a profi le of designer Tim Hamilton, a tribute to Burberry and Johnny Knoxville on the cover, photographed by Matthias Vriens. In the October issue, Hicklin’s new klatch of columnists will make their debut. Tim Gunn of “Project Runway” will write a fashion advice and anecdotal column; Josh Kilmer-Purcell, author of “I Am Not Myself These Days,” “will explore modern life as a gay man living A part of us is always close to you in the metropolis,” according to Hicklin; novelist Dale Peck will write about fi lm, and New York Observer writer Nicholas Boston will focus on gay themes in advertising and media. Out’s new visual design will follow in November. Said Hicklin: “We’re redesigning it to refl ect a sophisticated lifestyle magazine that has something in it to be read.” — Sara James

SUMMER SHOWER: With Vogue’s annual age issue on newsstands, several of the magazine’s staffers had a very particular life stage on their minds on Come Visit Us At: Monday night: infancy. A baby shower for Vogue’s senior accessory Interfilière - Lyon, France editor, Filipa Fino, who’s due next month, brought fashion masthead toppers like Meredith Melling Sept. 2-4, 2006 Burke and Virginia Smith to Quartino in New York’s NoHo neighborhood. Also in attendance was Stand Hall 2, Stand B52 father-to-be, Fulton Market scion and co-owner of Philippe restaurant on the Upper East Side, Stratis Morfogen. Presents were abundant, said Vogue style director and guest Elissa Santisi. “I don’t even know how she got them home, there were so many,” she ® said. “She would need a truck.” Host Marybeth Schmitt, vice president of p.r. for Kate Spade, gave — what else? — a Kate Spade stroller. Those PHOTO BY JOE SCHILDHORN-PMC PHOTO BY wondering what else the professional fashionistas Filipa Fino Headquarters Nilit Ltd. Maurizio Levi Rd. P.O.Box 276 Ramat Gabriel, Migdal Haemek, 23102 Israel. Tel: +972-4-654-4634 showered Fino with will be disappointed to learn Fax: +972-4-654-4636, e-mail: [email protected], www.nilit.com the editor waited until she got home to open the rest of her Nilit America Corp. 6903 International Drive, Greensboro, NC 27409 USA, Tel: +1 336 605 1962 , Fax: +1 336 605 1951, E-mail: [email protected] gifts. — Irin Carmon WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 11 WWD.COM Lemaire Gets New Life Versus to Relaunch With Accessories By Luisa Zargani Versace’s signature line both in terms of image and quality. PARIS — Christophe Lemaire, the creative direc- Although familiar with the history of the brand, Di tor of Lacoste, is resurrecting his eponymous label, MILAN — Remember Versus’ sexy-tough micro-jersey Risio has no plans to revive archival or iconic products which he suspended three years ago to concentrate dresses, shiny leathers and rubbery skirts? How about or to follow in his own footsteps, except for recapturing on reviving the iconic French sportswear brand. the brand’s colorful prints and tough-chic, hard-rock the essence of the line. Lemaire said he would feature the fi rst designs inspiration? “Versus was always about innovation and research, of the reborn label in a shop slated to open in Paris Well, forget about the past, said Giancarlo Di Risio, always ahead, aiming at what customers wanted,” Di in October. A second shop, in Tokyo, is to launch in chief executive offi cer of Versace Group. After a two-year Risio said. For these reasons, the executive chose to December. hiatus, Versus will reemerge at the end of August as a launch the new Versus, which targets customers who The brand — to be called Lemaire — will feature men’s and women’s accessories brand with the launch of are “young in spirit,” with a technology accessory. “This both men’s and women’s designs and will be geared a portable phone-MP3 player cobranded with Samsung. is what best represents today’s customers. What makes to an “urban dandy,” with a strong concentration on “While relying on Versus’ brand awareness, which is people tick? Technology, which rules our lives…These unisex styles and clothes that can be worn at home still very strong, we’re starting on a blank sheet…clothing is are items that are fun to buy and gratifying.” and on the street, he said. not a priority for us now,” Di Risio said. “This is an atypical The brand is “an independent line” owned by the The venture, which will begin wholesaling early project, which we are kicking off in an innovative way.” Versace Group that “does not live in Versace’s shadow next year, will be launched in partnership with In September, the company plans to launch a watch and will have its own development,” he said. Avant, a fashion group based in Kobe, Japan. collection produced by Vertime, and the following month, Di Risio has hired a design, marketing and public Known for streetwise designs with a Parisian an eyewear collection licensed to relations team that will be independent fl air, Lemaire said the clothes, to be produced in Luxottica will debut at Paris’ Silmo of Versace, and he is looking for a dedi- Japan, would be priced at the contemporary level international exhibition. A hand- cated showroom in Milan. as part of an attempt to reach a wider audience. bags and footwear line produced Versus will be positioned in the “Before, I felt captive to the designer price by Florence-based Works will also high-end range of the market with es- point,” he said. “Clothes that are too expensive run launch in the fall for spring/sum- timated sales of 35 million euros, or contrary to my design philosophy. I’ve always want- mer 2007. A fragrance licensed $43.7 million at current exchange, by ed to make clothes with a strong point of view but at to Euroitalia, which bought the 2007, Di Risio said. an intelligent price.” Versace fragrance and cosmetics The Versus/Samsung E500 clam- He said a pair of jeans would retail at around 150 business in 2004, will be presented shell model will be available in white euros, or $187; shirts would cost about 120 euros, or in mid-2007. and gold; white and pink, and black $150, and a cashmere sweater would run about 280 “In accordance with the sense of Three looks of the Versus- and silver and will retail at 349 euros, euros, or $350. the name and the origins of the brand, Samsung E500 cell phone. or $436. “This is only the fi rst of a series of French architect Franklin Azzi, who designed a Versus will go against the rules,” Di phones,” Di Risio said. boutique that looked like a bunker in Tokyo for French Risio said. Among some of the watch designs: the “Rounds” model, contemporary designer Bali Barret, has been hired for Versus was originally launched in 1989 and was pro- with logoed rings on the leather bracelets, and a chrono- the Paris boutique, which Lemaire said will be located duced by IT Holding’s Ittierre manufacturing arm under graph with a retrograde display of the timed periods in on the Rue de Poitou in a former pharmacy. a license that expired with the fall/winter 2005 collection. a counter-clockwise direction and a bracelet that can be “The concept is chic postmodern,” he said. “The Di Risio, chief executive of Ittierre at the time, was con- replaced by a functional string during sports activities. ambiance and the decoration will be more like a sidered the force behind the success of the company, and “A bright range of vivid colors is one of the leitmotifs house than a boutique.” a pioneer in launching designer jeans and young lines of the collection,” Di Risio said. Watches will retail at In that spirit, he said, a room of the 1,000- in the late Eighties and early Nineties — approaching 200 to 350 euros, or $250 to $437. square-foot space will be dedicated to music, one Versace with the idea for the Versus collection. In addition to a dedicated ad campaign next year, of Lemaire’s long-standing passions, with a wall of When Di Risio was hired at Versace two years ago, the company will roll out Versus boutiques in 2008. The speakers and a selection of records. Versus was put on the back burner as he worked on re- store concept is all about a white and cream color pal- — Robert Murphy ducing the house’s debt load and focused on repositioning ette, plenty of crystals, poufs and oval shapes. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 WWD.COM TheWWDList

Many specialty retailers fl ourished in a challenging retail environment. Dress Barn and The Children’s Place joined the list this year, replacing Wilson’s The High-Volume Specialists Leather Experts and Goody’s Family Clothing. Several companies, including Abercrombie & Fitch, Chico’s, Urban Outfi tters and American Eagle Outfi tters, Top 20 publicly traded specialty retailers ranked by most recent scored double-digit revenue increases. — Constance Gustke annual volume.* GAP INC. CLAIRE’S STORES INC. Volume: $16.02 billion, down 1 percent Volume: $1.37 billion, up 7 percent Last year’s rank: 1 Last year’s rank: 8 Gap Inc. has experienced slumping sales in its Gap Claire’s Stores’ sales in Europe keep climbing. The retailer brand, a $6.8 billion business that is the company’s opened 55 units there in fi scal 2006 alone, targeting new 1 largest division, as well as growing impatience 11 markets in Spain, Holland and Belgium. Sales per square among investors. foot for its 3,050 stores worldwide were $477.

LIMITED BRANDS INC. AEROPOSTALE INC. Volume: $9.7 billion, up 3 percent Volume: $1.2 billion, up 25 percent Last year’s rank: 2 Last year’s rank: 13 The 43-year-old company has excelled in the personal Fourth-quarter net sales surged 33 percent for this care area with brands such as Victoria’s Secret and Bath mall-based teen retailer. The company, which has 12 headquarters in New York City, plans to open at least 70 2 & Body Works, even as its apparel chains, Express and Limited stores, have struggled to fi nd their identities. more stores by the end of this year to house its lifestyle brands, such as Jimmy’Z Surf Co. ABERCROMBIE & FITCH CO. NEW YORK & CO. INC. Volume: $2.78 billion, up 38 percent Volume: $1.13 billion, up 9 percent Last year’s rank: 4 Last year’s rank: 11 Profi ts climbed 61 percent in 2005 at the Ohio-based Founded in 1918, this 500-store retail chain went public company. Abercrombie is now taking its buff models to in 2004. Its target customer: women between the ages of 3 London, where a store is set to open next year. 13 25 and 45 who are looking for moderate-priced apparel and accessories.

CHARMING SHOPPES INC. URBAN OUTFITTERS INC. Volume: $2.76 billion, up 18 percent Volume: $1.09 billion, up 32 percent Last year’s rank: 3 Last year’s rank: 14 This plus-size specialty retailer registered a 54 Propelled by sales at its namesake stores, along with percent spike in profi ts last year with its Lane Bryant, Anthropologie and Free People, this eclectic retailer joined the 4 Fashion Bug and Catherines brands. It also bought the 14 billion-dollar sales club in fi scal 2006. Its compounded annual catalogue fi rm Crosstown Traders. sales growth totaled 33 percent from fi scal 2002 to 2006.

AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS INC. THE DRESS BARN INC. Volume: $2.31 billion, up 23 percent Volume: $1 billion, up 33 percent Last year’s rank: 5 Not ranked last year. American Eagle has prospered by targeting 15- to This family-run company sprinted onto the list after 25-year-olds. It is planning to add to its 806 stores by buying Maurices’ 477 stores. The synergy is telling: 5 Dress Barn targets markets in midsize cities, Maurices launching Martin + Osa, an active lifestyle brand that 15 courts 25- to 40-year-old men and women. is in small towns.

ANNTAYLOR STORES CORP. GUESS INC. Volume: $2.07 billion, up 12 percent Volume: $936.1 million, up 28 percent Last year’s rank: 6 Last year’s rank: 19 WWD said in June that Ann Taylor was seeing consistent The Los Angeles-based company got its start in the performance, marked by eight straight months of positive Seventies with its best-selling 3-zip Marilyn jeans. Now 6 store comps. Chief executive Kay Krill, who took the helm in 16 goods include eyeglasses, jewelry and fragrances. Second- early 2005, said that “we are in the midst of a turnaround.” quarter 2006 sales have already spiked 23 percent.

TALBOTS INC. CATO CORP. Volume: $1.81 billion, up 7 percent Volume: $836.4 million, up 6 percent Last year’s rank: 7 Last year’s rank: 15 The New England-based retailer, known for its classic The private label retailer, headquartered in Charlotte, apparel, is still digesting its $517 million acquisition of N.C., added 67 stores last year under the names Cato 7 and It’s Fashion. Its stores are in shopping centers J. Jill this year. The company’s plus-size and Talbots 17 Kids sales were strong in 2005. throughout the southeastern U.S.

THE CHILDREN’S PLACE COLDWATER CREEK INC. Volume: $1.67 billion, up 44 percent Volume: $779.7 million, up 32 percent Not ranked last year. Last year’s rank: 18 This fi rm, which also owns Disney Stores, designs and WWD reported that Coldwater will be a mature chain 8 manufactures clothes aimed at kids up to age 10. Ceo by 2010. So the chain, which caters mainly to Baby Ezra Dabah wants to add another 700 stores to its 18 Boomers, has crafted a new concept. The retailer 1,100-shop stable by an undisclosed date. launched day spas that are a short walk from its stores.

CHICO’S FAS INC. TWEEN BRANDS INC. Volume: $1.4 billion, up 32 percent Volume: $757.9 million, up 12 percent Last year’s rank: 12 Last year’s rank: 16 Founded in 1983 as a Mexican folk art and sweater In July, Too Inc. became Tween Brands, signaling its store, Chico’s morphed into a private label women’s allegiance to girls ages 7 to 12. Once part of The Limited, 9 retailer with 799 stores. Executives want to sustain 25 19 Tween now has 565 stores under the separate Limited percent earnings growth for the foreseeable future. Too nameplate and 111 Justice stores.

PACIFIC SUNWEAR OF CALIFORNIA INC. HOT TOPIC INC. Volume: $1.39 billion, up 13 percent Volume: $725.1 million, up 10 percent Last year’s rank: 10 Last year’s rank: 17 Once a little surf shop in California, PacSun now has With its pop culture-inspired clothes, Hot Topic caters more than 1,100 stores. Its newest concept store, One to young men and women between the ages of 12 and 22. 20 The chain plans to open 50 stores this year, 30 fewer than 10 Thousand Steps, is aimed at young adults and was launched this spring. originally planned.

SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS; *COMPANIES THAT REPORTED FULL-YEAR RESULTS ON THE COMMON RETAIL FISCAL CALENDAR WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 13 WWD.COM Lessons From Demise of Rochas Continued from page one house so deeply rooted in French fashion, and it begs million and suggested the business was losing money, had emerged as a star of the global fashion scene for the question of just how healthy selling out to a corpo- given high labor costs in France and the big-budget run- turning Rochas into a label that was highly revered by rate parent can be. “Corporate couture is an oxymoron,” way shows Theyskens mounted each season in a tent the fashion community. He garnered much press, won Doneger’s Wolfe quipped. in the Tuileries gardens. One source suggested annual several fashion awards and, by many retail accounts, But even if the wan, longhaired likes of Theyskens losses could have been as high as sales, noting: “Procter has been able to develop a creative and somewhat sal- are rare in the halls of P&G headquarters in Cincinnati, & Gamble wouldn’t shut down a company because it lost able collection, albeit a very expensive one. others suggested the shutdown was premature. $2 million or $3 million a year.” But all the talent in the world no longer seems to suffi ce. “I think he did a great job there,” said Karl Lagerfeld, To be sure, it’s another signal that conglomerates are In today’s industry, which is increasingly being helmed by who counts Theyskens as a personal friend and a fre- sharpening their focus and whittling out distractions. conglomerates that must report to shareholders and pri- quent guest at his Chanel shows. “He did a lot to create Paco Rabanne, owned by Spain’s Puig Group, has ceased vate equity funds, creativity — Theysken’s kind that makes an image they didn’t know how to use properly.” rtw shipments as it seeks to close down its high-cost Paris fashion insiders swoon — is no insurance policy. operations, which employ some 40 people. Rabanne is “It means that talent is not enough,” said Jean Jacques said to be considering several options, including a manu- Olivier Picart, a Paris-based industry consultant. “Obviously, facturing partnership for fashion. Theyskens Olivier is a very talented designer. But we must not forget In general, luxury and fashion conglomerates are try- our job is commerce. We need to go back to the product, ing to concentrate on their core brands, said Antoine back to the trade.” He suggested that brand owners seeking Colonna, head of the luxury goods research team at to rejuvenate old names often “pay too much attention to Merrill Lynch in Paris. “Look at what happened with the media to revive and not enough to the business side.” LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Christian A spokeswoman for P&G said Wednesday, “It’s not our Lacroix,” he said. “It’s all about whether the brand be- core competency. We’re not a fashion company. We’re very comes a management distraction and is taking too much grateful to him [Theyskens]. He’s done an amazing job at energy from the core.” Colonna said he expected to see Rochas, but our core competency lies elsewhere. Running a more of the same from the big luxury players, but added fashion business in terms of the distribution chain requires that this opened a door for private equity players to specifi c skills. We looked at creative solutions and did every- move in and grab noncore assets. thing we possibly could. We had to make tough choices.” Serge Weinberg, the former PPR chairman who now Indeed, many executives concurred that P&G’s deci- runs Weinberg Capital Partners venture capital fund, sion to dismantle Rochas’ apparel business is a prime said, “It’s always diffi cult for noncore businesses in a example of how editorial buzz doesn’t translate into fi - big group, but it’s even more so when you’re dealing nancial viability. with ready-to-wear or haute couture in a group that The Rochas situation is also a signal of how much the knows nothing about that.” fashion business has changed over the last few years, In addition, Weinberg underscored the challenges raising questions of what a brand needs to become suc- faced by dusty brands angling for a place in today’s su- cessful at retail. percompetitive landscape. “There are revitalization sto- “The business model as it has been for the last number ries, but they are very few. Balenciaga is a good example of years makes it increasingly diffi cult, if not impossible, to STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY of a success,” Weinberg said. “A place under the sun has be successful with just a very high-end ready-to-wear line,” become very expensive today. To have a good store in said Robert Burke, founder of luxury consulting group Lagerfeld stressed that there are few stars in the the right location is more expensive than it used to be. Robert Burke Associates. “Without the revenues of licens- industry and that management has a responsibility to Advertising is expensive. Breakeven is pretty high.” es of other categories, a collection business alone is almost translate the work of a designer into a success. Floriane de Saint Pierre, who runs an executive impossible. More people are able to carry a Balenciaga or “It’s too easy to say it didn’t sell,” he said. “Ask fi rst, search and consulting fi rm in Paris, said the Rochas Marc Jacobs bag than are able to buy and afford the collec- how was it sold?” Lagerfeld stressed that making a shutdown suggests rejuvenating old brands is a strategy tion. Unfortunately, Rochas didn’t have the diversifi cation fashion brand work in today’s competitive environment that may have run its course. of merchandise that it obviously needed.” requires investments and expertise in stores, advertis- “What is worse: Losing an old brand or not having Cedric Charbit, general merchandise manager at ing, merchandising and production. “You can’t say it’s new brands hiring talents?” she asked. “Only a few Printemps in Paris, noted, “Sure, it’s a shame, but at the Olivier’s fault,” he said. “To me, even if it does sell, brands from the past can probably be reinvented. It end of the day, everyone needs to make money and some there may be other problems with the management.” should be balanced by new brands of the future.” projects are not economically viable. Fashion is about Valerie Steele, director of The Museum at FIT, noted, “Especially the large companies don’t feel comfortable supply and demand. “Fashion takes a particular type of expertise and a long- managing this type of business,” agreed Nancy Flavin, a “In fashion you can have a lot of buzz, but it sells or term commitment that is hard to fi nd in today’s market- Paris-based industry consultant. “There is such a steep it doesn’t,” Charbit added. “[Rochas] had no advertising, place. It doesn’t follow normal rules of capitalism. It learning curve for some of them, and their shareholders it had no accessories, no hit bag and the clothing was seems much more erratic. There is an important role don’t have the patience. The companies have to deliver.” diffi cult. Theyskens has talent, but he wasn’t focused. of gatekeeping in fashion, but in this particular case, all Flavin called the shutdown “a huge shame,” given [Balenciaga’s] Nicolas Ghesquière has had commercial the gatekeepers were rooting for him and it still didn’t that Theyskens’ designs for Rochas “still inspire a lot pressure put on him and that’s proved that it can create work. You couldn’t have hoped to fi nd a better designer. of people — that’s where the passion for fashion comes energy when done in the right way.” “Fashion does not follow the same rules as other from.” But she noted many consumers don’t spend the “Buzz is not what makes a business succeed,” said types of merchandise, and that makes big investors and way they used to, and some are turning toward less ex- David Wolfe, creative director of The Doneger Group, companies worried,” added Steele. “It may seem unde- pensive clothes manufactured in emerging markets. the New York-based buying offi ce and trend forecaster. sirable or too much trouble. It’s prestigious, sure, but Historically, fashion brands lived off the proceeds of “Often, media buzz is only about the media and not nec- it needs a lot of care and feeding. It’s more demanding their beauty businesses. “It has always been the cosmet- essarily about the business of moving merchandise or and less reliable than predictable commodities. ics that were profi t-makers — that’s not changed,” Flavin running a business. Olivier is a great interview, he is very “There is always a lot of talk about reviving famous said. “It’s only when the owner is a public company, like photogenic, and the clothes made great pictures, but they couture houses,” Steele continued. “There should be a Procter & Gamble, or Clarins, that they have to make were artistic and fashion is a very commercial art.” lot of capital invested in their names, and yet very few tough, what could ultimately be short-term, decisions.” By all accounts, Rochas has seen increases at retail. do it successfully. In today’s market, you have to be a Theyskens did not return phone calls Wednesday, and Barneys New York has experienced double-digit gains really big brand. In the Twenties or Thirties you could sources suggested he is likely to keep a low profi le until every season with Rochas, according to Julie Gilhart, start a couture company with just two or three clients, the fall and evaluate any offers that might come his way. senior vice president and fashion director. “We loved but now you need a lot of money and time, and there is While many would-be matchmakers were immediately Rochas and how it was developing,” she said. “Everything an element of just luck. Very few of these succeed. If pitching him as a candidate for Chloé, which has a long- about it was great — Olivier, his team, the clothes. The you think back to 1987, Lacroix. The economy tanked standing vacancy, speculation immediately focused on bags and shoes were beginning to develop. It is really and the perfume was not working. It took time.” the 29-year-old Belgian relaunching his signature brand, hard to understand why it had to stop this way. Carla Sozzani, owner of the 10 Corso Como boutique in which he owns but had put on hiatus to focus on Rochas. “I think the thing to learn from all this is it is really Milan, said, “I understand that Rochas is a niche brand about the designers and their talent fi rst and foremost. that was probably losing money, but I still think P&G could Olivier’s collections at Rochas were not only beautiful have waited longer before deciding to close it down. but intelligent and directional. His eye for business is the “You need to give these brands more time: Just think of same. His infl uence on fashion has been mammoth.” how long it took Balenciaga to be turned around. Olivier Jeffrey Kalinsky, owner of Jeffrey, also raved about is very talented and has an eye for quality that few young Fashion Scoop Theyskens’ ability. “Olivier Theyskens is one of the fi ve designers have,” Sozzani continued. “Over the last two A DATE WITH NAN: After some speculation earlier this year, most talented designers working in fashion today. He is seasons, his clothes have matured and evolved very much. the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art just an amazing talent. It’s sort of heartbreaking that the In the pre-spring collection, for example, there were lots confi rmed on Wednesday that it is planning an exhibit Rochas clothing he was creating won’t be available any- of wearable and easy pieces that the retailers lauded.” on the fashions of Nan Kempner, one of America’s most more. He really created something from a blank canvas. Meanwhile, news of the Rochas fashion closure, fashionable socialites, who died last year. “Nan Kempner: He combined all of my favorite elements — substance, reported fi rst by wwd.com on Wednesday, is likely to American Chic” is scheduled to open to the public on Dec. refi nement and elegance.” prompt a fresh round of new suitors for Rochas. 12 and will run through March 4. Details of the show were However, some retailers said the customers balked at Although P&G had reportedly sought to license the not made available, except that it will showcase some of the expensive prices. rtw business, sources said the consumer products giant Kempner’s favorite pieces. The late social maven was a Joan Burstein, owner of Browns in London, said high could entertain enticing offers for an outright sale of the regular at the couture shows, and had a wardrobe fi lled pricing was an Achilles’ heel, which is why she no lon- fashion and fragrance brands together. with creations by Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Oscar de ger carries the brand. “The customer is very aware of Rochas fragrances — which include such scents as la Renta, Emanuel Ungaro, Tom Ford in his Gucci days and prices, and obviously the arithmetic didn’t work out,” Poupee, Alchimie and Lui — generate annual revenues Jean Paul Gaultier. she said. “The pieces were beautiful, you could turn the of $44 million a year at retail, according to analyst esti- Curators may still be rummaging through Kempner’s garment inside out and the pieces were hand-done, but mates. Other estimates range as high as $50 million to extensive wardrobe, but the Costume Institute already sometimes it did not justify the prices. Up against the $75 million. The perfume business, while centered in is rumored to be in talks for its next exhibit. A Costume other designers, Rochas was too expensive.” France and Spain, is said to be healthy and profi table. Institute spokeswoman would not comment, but word is The news made some wonder whether a conglomer- P&G declined to disclose fi gures for the fashion that the show will focus on the works of Paul Poiret. ate the size of P&G didn’t have the fi nesse to handle a house, but sources estimate revenues of less than $12.6 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006

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Designer $70-90K Current exp in Leading ladies denim jean and sports- Production Coordinators Pls email resumes to 4 to 6X-7 to 14 girls, tween, pre-teen, or wear importer seeks the following: Global intimate apparel company in Jr. outerwear. Pollyfill, denim, jackets Technical Designer [email protected] Technical Designer Secaucus is looking for 2 strong & Or fax to 509-757-7814 etc. Call 973-564-9236 JARAL AGCY detail oriented people w/great PC skills. Missy moderate sportswear / NY office Highly exp tech designer to work in fast seeks detail oriented person with 2-3 paced production dept. Knowledge of Responsible for overseas ordering, Handbag Machines tracking shipments & garment pricing. years experience in garment fitting for a garment construction, pattern making, fast paced environment. Must be profi- Handbag Factory downsizing. Designer Assistant flat sketching, grading and conducting Must have at least 3 yrs exp in production. Selling many sewing machines, Junior sptswr co seeks sales motived, Excellent salary & benefits package. EOE. cient in sketching, measuring, and grad- creative & organized individual. Must fit sessions a must. Candidate must ing. Communicate changes/corrections cutting machines and leather. also have excellent overseas factory Please email resume to: Contact 718-383-0242 Computer Tech Support have at least 1 yr experience in domes- [email protected] to NY based agent in a precise & timely tic, cut & sew. Please fax resume to: communication skills and know how to manner for overseas interpretation. Apparel Software Co. seeks Tech Support process tech packages. Wal Mart exp a to provide customer service. Knowledge 646-572-0565, attn: Sarina Knowledge of wovens & knits. Salary plus. Friendly working environment commensurate w/experience. Fax/E-mail: of EDI & apparel software is a +. Must and company benefits. be a team player w/ good communication *Production Jobs* 717-313-7046 / [email protected] skills. Will train the right person. Fax Designer Asst Technical Designer Assistants-Coordinators-Managers resume/salary requirements: 212-947-6130 Entry level tech design asst with one yr Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries JR DESIGNER Call (212) 643-8090 Fax (212) 643-8127 (AGCY) Sportswear Co. seeks talented individual exp to work in fast paced production SEEKING PARTNER for Junior line. Must have a minimum of dept. Knowledge of garment construc - Domestic and Import all ladies apparel 3 yrs exp. with Photoshop & Illustrator. tion, pattern making, flat sketching and PRODUCTION MGR ...... TO 100K TECH SPEC/ TECHNICAL co. seeks partner w/ strong sales Candidate must have the ability to work grading a must. Candidate must have Imports, manage Far East contractors connections and marketing skills. Contemporary Sportswear in fast paced Jr. environment. Please excellent communication skills as well Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212-465-8300 Designer-Childrenswear Please contact us at: send resume to: 646-562-9650. Attn: Cathy as a knowledge of fit, tech packages, [email protected] Individual with min. 5 yrs exp. Must be [email protected] Market Analyst know how to process and communicate www.srisearch.com able to develop new specs, full graded If you are passionate about the Con- to overseas factories. Denim exp a plus. specs, do fit approvals & comments. temporary customer & lifestyle, we have DESIGNER/SR./to $80K+ Friendly working environment and Should be able to make & correct paper an exciting opportunity for you at The JUNIORS/Fashion Forward company benefits. Email resume to: patterns. Computer skills a must. Doneger Group, the fashion industry’s Great oppty. to join the staff of this [email protected] Fax resume: 212-967-7494 leading merchandising consulting firm. “hot” celebrity branded div. w/some Production A highly motivated and enthusiastic urban flair. Req: 4+ years designing individual as Contemporary Sportswear w/Jr. expr. strength in Tops; knits and Patternmaker CHARGEBACK SERVICES Market Analyst will build strong work- sweaters w/ fash. forwd. look, strong Seeking Production Patternmaker w/ ing relationships with our retail clients MAC Illust, ability to do own tech pks. Materials Coordinator women’s sportswear background and the vendor community. The posi- E-mail resume: [email protected] including lined jackets, pants, missy and Free initial analysis of your retail tion requires strong communication (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)914-337-3660 Candidate must have 3-5 yrs exp. plus sizes. ONLY Applicants who know chargebacks under Texas law. both written & presentation, analytical, Excel computer skills a must, excellent GERBER PDS SYSTEM need apply. organizational and interpersonal skills. organizational skills, experience with Pls fax resume to Yelena at 212-444-6022 Filteau & Sullivan, P.C. Houston, TX Minimum 5 years related experience. tracking overseas shipments, Strong Call John Sullivan or Robert For consideration email resume to: EDI Operations / verbal/written communication skills. [email protected] Responsibilities will include inventory Filteau @ (713) 236-1400 Warehouse Coordinator control of fabric + leather, daily comm. SALESPERSON Responsible for EDI & order processing, w/ overseas vendors, tracking l/dips, Junior Dress Company looking for a communicating with public warehouse, and follow up on sample orders. Seasoned salesperson to maintain ex- coordinating shipping, receiving and Only experienced need apply. isting accounts as well as bring in new returns. Routing exp. with major retailers Please email resume to businesses. The right person should ALLSTAR TRUCKING & WHSE Daniel M. Friedman and driver’s license req’d. Good MS Excel [email protected] have a JUNIOR dress background, 3-5 718-945-3500 knowledge a must; Blue Cherry is a plus. years experience in sales and mer- Garment Center Specialist. Dist to and Assoc. Inc Please Fax resume to: 212-358-0031 chandising experience. Must be will- consol- Import p/u port Newark. JFK A Fashion Accessory Division of Patternmaker/Draper ing to travel and have computer skills. a/p -US Customs Bonded Whse Steve Madden, Ltd has the following Leading Luxury design house seeks an Person will start immediately. Email positions located in our Manhattan exp’d Patternmaker with outstanding resumes along with salary require- office open for immediate opportunity. draping skills. Must be skilled in jack- ments to DONNA at: Handbags Sample Room [email protected] Patterns. Salpas. Samples ets, dresses, & pants. Min. 5 yrs exp. Market Week additions & corrections. Wholesale/Retail in the designer market required. Editorial and Runway samples Analyst EDI / SHIPPING Fax resume w/c letter to:(212) 398-9695 Please call: 212-244-2524 "Walmart Expert" Must know Retail- COORDINATOR Link, be able to set-up styles, analyze PLANNER/RETAIL ANALYST Major denim brand seeks individual with New position in multi division, selling, create replenishment orders, extensive knowledge of all aspects of PATTERN/SAMPLES and more. Salary and Benefits Open. men’s/ladies company. Required: EDI and non EDI order and shipping Dept. store retail analyst experience. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast transactions. This person must be ex- work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Controller E-mail resume: [email protected] tremely organized, responsible & able (Fax)917-591-2521 (Tel)914-337-3660 Controller with 5-7 years of Apparel / to multi task. 3 years experience in the PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Accessory experience. Responsible for industry necessary. Excellent opportunity. financial reporting, reconciling all gen- E-mail resume to: Prod’n Coord $45-65K PRODUCTIONS eral ledger balance sheet accounts, day [email protected] Wovens 3 Great Opptys! All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. to day accounting. This is a hands on [email protected] 212-947-3400 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. role in which you can grow into the CFO role. Must be able to manage staff. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Salary & Benefits commensurate w/ exp. Executive Sales Production Associate Assistant Int’l Textile Co. seeks highly motivated PRODUCTIONS Bookkeeper At least 1-2 yrs garment experience. detail oriented person to track goods Full service shop to the trade. Experienced bookkeeper needed to Work closely with major accts, handle from order placement to delivery. Daily Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. help maintain growth of fast-paced co. all admin duties for accts, showroom communication w/ overseas suppliers. Primary role is accounts payable, maintenance, fluent with excel, word, Computer literate, good follow-up skills. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD reconciling Import Documents, ADP powerpoint, organize and diligent Knowledge of textiles a +. Challenging High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- payroll, and minor HR Responsibili- person needed for the fast pace position. support position in a friendly busy work sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 ties. Salary and Benefits are open. Please fax resume to Denise / Paul at environment. Company paid benefits. Please fax all resumes to (212) 643-7524 212-967-2420. Please fax resume: 212-245-7615 WWD, THURSDAY, JULY 20, 2006 15 WWD.COM MAC, Boots to Produce Limited-Edition Lines LONDON — At least two beauty brands are fashioning Balbier, senior vice president of MAC Cosmetics, in It will also be available in North America and Asia from limited-edition makeup collections for designers here the statement. “She is the queen of color. Her colors September. this fall. are bright, bold and modern.” Boots, the British pharmacy retailer, has linked MAC Cosmetics will add another The collection, priced in the U.K. with Eley Kishimoto to create a limited-edition make- splash of color to its makeup offering from 10.50 pounds, or $19.20 at current up collection for its 17 brand. For its fi rst foray into in collaboration with Zandra Rhodes, exchange, for a lip gloss to 29 pounds, or beauty, the fashion label will offer in September a col- and Boots the Chemists will unveil a BEAUTY BEAT $53, for an eye shadow compact, will be lection of fi ve eye shadows under the moniker 17 by collection for Eley Kishimoto under its sold in the U.K. exclusively in Harrods Eley Kishimoto. A holiday-inspired gift set, dubbed 17 17 brand. department store and on MAC’s U.K. e-tailing Web site. by Eley Kishimoto Gift and comprising mascara, eye The Estée Lauder Cos. Inc.-owned MAC brand has shadow, lip gloss and a compact mirror, will bow in teamed with colorful British designer Rhodes to create December. The makeup items are inspired by the fash- a limited-edition collection that will bow in September. ion brand’s fall/winter fashion collection. The launch will coincide with Rhodes’ return to the This is Boots’ third fashion collaboration; it has al- runway after a 20-year hiatus. The designer will show ready partnered with FrostFrench and Karen Walker her spring-summer collection during London Fashion for similar limited-edition lines. Week in September, after which MAC will fete their col- — Brid Costello and Nina Jones laboration with a cocktail party. Currently, Rhodes’ seasonal apparel collections are sold through stores including 10 Corso Como, Barneys New York and Harrods. “I love color and makeup, and MAC is a company Gary Farn Names Marketing V.P. synonymous with colorful and vibrant makeup, which NEW YORK — Fragrance sales and marketing firm Gary I personally always use,” said Rhodes in a statement. Farn Ltd. has named Theresa Plavoukos vice presi- “It’s a true marriage made in color.” dent of marketing. Plavoukos was most recently execu- The collection includes hues created specifi cally tive director of marketing at the Estée Lauder Cos.’ for Rhodes, as well as existing MAC products. The line BeautyBank division, and prior to that she had been features an eye shadow compact containing six shades, global marketing director at Maybelline. In her new including Zandra, which is pink with silver and pink post, Plavoukos oversees market planning for the brands sparkles, and Phloof!, in frosted off-white. There are Gary Farn handles — including Annick Goutal, Emanuel three lipsticks in yellow-bronze and orange tints, as Ungaro, Etro, Lolita Lempicka and Salvatore Ferragamo well as two lip glosses. Packaging features a gold fi nish — and will help develop new partnerships for the com- and colorful illustrations by Rhodes. Designer Zandra Rhodes and pieces from the limited-edition pany, the firm said. Plavoukos reports to Alison Farn “Zandra was quite an inspiration,” said Jennifer cosmetics collection MAC created for her. Leigh, president of Gary Farn.

Claudia Richard Leading blouse & woven importer seeks exp’d sales person in missy & plus size moderate market. Must have SWEATER SALES REPS a minimum of five years experience. Imported sweater line seeks reps with Email or fax resume attn: Don boutique and specialty store following. E: [email protected] E-mail resume: [email protected] F: 212-840-2696 or call (703) 208-9770.

National Sales Manager Sales Asst./Assoc. Allen B., a leader in contemporary jeans has an incredible Rapidly growing apparel company opportunity for an experienced National Sales Manager. seeks entry level Sales Assistants / Candidate must have 5 yrs exp. in leading the sales operations of Associates for Juniors & Young Men’s. Looking for motivated individuals w/ a contemporary denim line. Must have proven ability to drive computer experience and excellent sales, build businesses and motivate a sales team. communication skills to work in NY Individual should have established relationships with Showroom. Please email resume to: Department and Specialty Stores. Understanding of Retail [email protected] Planning & Account Management is required. Account Executive ABS., a leader in contemporary / designer clothing has an incredible opportunity for an aggressive, self-motivated SOHO merchandising & design group Account Executive to join our Dress Division sales team in SALES PROFESSIONAL New York. Established relationships with better contemporary/ designer Department and Specialty Stores a must. Understanding SOHO merchandising & design group representing a of Retail Planning & Account Management is required. diverse portfolio of brands seeks experienced and Minimum 5 years experience. dynamic sales professional to launch new high-end modern sportswear collection. Please send resume to: Fax: (213) 891-2812 Attn: Human Resources Min 10 years exp. Established dept & specialty store or Email: [email protected] relationships a must. Must be available to travel. E/O/E E-mail resume to: [email protected]

BEN ELIAS INDUSTRIES... OFF PRICE SALES PRO SENIOR SALES EXECUTIVE LADIES APPAREL New York based OUTERWEAR Company for men and ladies seeks for an in-house aggressive experienced sales executive. Major off-price apparel distributor seeks a sales pro Candidate MUST have strong relationships and current with at least 10years Off-price selling experience contacts with specialty, chain, department and discount and a proven track record. Great opportunity. stores. Will be responsible for selling large volumes by devel- Salary commensurate with experience. oping and maintaining sales nationwide. Please email or fax resume in confidence to: Please send your resume: [email protected] Fax: 212-302-7953 (NY OFFICE) E: [email protected] F:212-869-9438 DO YOU BELIEVE IN M AGIC? PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA PHOTOS BY DONATO MAGIC First Day Section II: August 28 Close: August 11

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