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Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, You Beautiful Doll, All Dressed in Denim — the Perfect Refrain for Frugal Fashion Girls Everywhere

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Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, You Beautiful Doll, All Dressed in Denim — the Perfect Refrain for Frugal Fashion Girls Everywhere The Inside: Top Specialty Retailers Pg. 12 EXPLORING GHURKA OPTIONS/3 THE NEW VERSUS/11 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • TheTHURSDAY Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • July 20, 2006 • $2.00 List Sportswear Denim Doll NEW YORK — Oh, you beautiful doll, all dressed in denim — the perfect refrain for frugal fashion girls everywhere. Resort is full of affordable denim in all shapes and styles. Here, Tyte’s stretch cotton jumpsuit, $17.50 at wholesale, worn with Star City’s cotton blouse, an Accessory Network belt, Juicy Couture earrings and Seychelles sandals. For more on the season’s best denim under $50, see pages 6 and 7. Postmortem on Rochas: Y DAVID YASSKY Y DAVID It Takes More Than Talent To Play Corporate Game By WWD Staff TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR BECCA;TSBYTIMOTHYPRIANO/FOR STYLED B NEW YORK — Designers and brand owners /ARTIS must prioritize commercial, salable products over media glory. That’s among the chief lessons to be learned from Tuesday’s news that Procter & Gamble plans to shutter the Rochas fashion house despite PRIANO.COM; MAKEUP BY NAOMI MAKEUP BY PRIANO.COM; widespread acclaim for its designer, Olivier Theyskens, say observers. The move also underscores the increasing challenges for a luxury fashion label that hasn’t been able to diversify into other product categories BY DAVID MEDELYE/ARTISTSBYTIMOTHY DAVID BY successfully. In the past few seasons, Theyskens See Lessons, Page 13 EL: LISALLA/NEW MODELS; HAIR YORK PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; MOD KYLE PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION ™ The mix-and-match game is a fashion mainstay, especially with a lineup A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 6 of terrifi c denim pieces of the affordable sort, all less than $50 wholesale. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL P&G’s closing of Rochas despite designer Olivier Theyskens’ praise from COLOR CODING 1 critics underscores the challenges of a luxe label that hasn’t diversifi ed. What Certain Hues Say About You Retail shares rebounded Wednesday, joining a rally spurred by Federal 3 Reserve chairman Ben Bernanke’s remarks that infl ation might ease. “I’ve always been loyal to my colors,” says men, their goal when getting dressed is to look Accessory Network Group has retained Financo to explore strategic the legendary Elizabeth Taylor in the August 2006 like everyone else and not stand out,” explains 3 alternatives for the upscale Ghurka brand it acquired in February 2003. Harper’s Bazaar. Naturally, she adds, “I love violet.” Jen Drechsler, Director of Brand Insights for A federal court judge in Maryland overturned a state law mandating a Such statement provokes a thought: do everyday Just Ask A Woman, a consultancy based in New 3 specifi c level of health care coverage aimed at Wal-Mart Stores. women have “colors” and use them to their York. “Women choose colors that help them look EYE: When the author is Amazonian nightlife queen Amy Sacco and the advantage to make a statement or their best, that accentuate their 4 tome is called “Cocktails,” a book signing can turn into a swanky affair. perhaps, at the most basic level, positives and make an outfit DENIM: A rebound in Lee jeans and double-digit gains from Vans and The blend in with the crowd? uniquely their own.” 8 North Face kept the momentum rolling at VF Corp. in the second quarter. To some degree, they actually “I would have guessed that blue BEAT: What’s old is new again for XOXO, the junior brand acquired by do — or should, according to would be a favorite among men Global Brand Holdings in July 2003 that’s in a growth spurt. Jeannine McShane, a human since it’s a safe choice for business 9 resources consultant in Central or casual,” Hoffman considers. Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................14-15 Florida; who says she makes It also comes down to a To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. conscious and deliberate color question of availability of colors [email protected], using the individual’s name. choices when getting dressed for for the genders. “Men don’t really WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. the day. “If I am interviewing, have as many options as women VOLUME 192, NO. 12. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- I tend to favor grays, blues and when it comes to color at retail; ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, blacks to convey a professional I also don’t think that they tend Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers and serious image. If I am making to favor bright colors in their Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and wardrobes for the every day, so C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; a presentation or teaching a class, David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior I choose something vibrant and you see lots of blues and grays, Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance pleasing to the eye that will make especially in the workplace,” Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. “I design with so much color Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. people think that I am interesting Dupuis states. “Retailers provide 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable and fun and someone that they throughout the collection and I plenty of options in these hues and Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS think that different colors have dif- CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, would like to pay attention to.” often in interesting textures.” ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR “Color can sway a mood,” ferent emotions. The same dress Sometimes more is less, at least DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four in black is different from the same weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. observes Claire Dupuis, a senior when it comes to color choices. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other trend forecaster at Cotton dress in red, and you can just Perhaps because they have more U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. imagine how different the same First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, Incorporated. “Color is the first color options, 69% of female and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions thing we observe and it often sets thing in brown might be.” respondents told the Monitor and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To —Mara Hoffman, subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make a tone; red is exciting, blue can be that they could easily find the our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would soothing, white can signal purity. Designer colors that they like, compared interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Color does speak.” with the slightly greater 73% of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- Designer Mara Hoffman admits to being male respondents who said they generally found SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, influenced by color when creating her signature the colors that they liked. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED dresses, skirts and tops. “I design with so much color “Today’s garments have great qualities that throughout the collection and I think that different make them ideal for the workplace or especially colors have different emotions. The same dress in for those times when you want and need to look black is different from that same your best, like at a meeting or In Brief dress in red, and you can just WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE COLOR TO WEAR? on an interview,” McShane imagine how different the same advises. “Look for garments ● RISING SPAR: Art Spar has been promoted to president of thing in brown might be.” WOMEN MEN that will still appear fresh at the NPD Group’s apparel tracking services, while retaining his The message colors convey end of the day.” She also says BLUE 23% 51% responsibility for apparel client development at the consumer is influenced by a variety of to be judicious with one’s color research fi rm.
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