VIETNAM 7—2016
BLACK SOLDIER FLIES An Alternative Solution to Overfishing PAGE 20
A SONG FOR A STEAK For Great Steaks And Romantic Interludes PAGE 52
THE ROOF OF INDOCHINA Are You Brave Enough to Climb Mt Fansipan? PAGE 76
MEAN GIRLS...AND BOYS Bullying in Schools Needs to Stop PAGE 88
WrittenẤN PHẨM CHUYÊN VỀ QUẢNG CÁO - MIỄN PHÍ By1 Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016! Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016 for their outstanding university offers and earning nearly U.S. $1 million of university scholarships.
47 26 3 6 5 3 90 UNITED UNITED EUROPE ASIA CANADA AUSTRALIA UNIVERSITY OFFERS* STATES KINGDOM
*Number of university offers as of June 2016
The International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is the city’s 1st International Baccalaureate World School for students aged
2 to 18 years old. We are proud to have the longest history of graduating IB Diploma candidates to leading universities worldwide,
including New York University, University of Melbourne, University College London and University of Hong Kong this year.
Enrolling IB Students Now +84 (8) 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com
2 Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016! Congratulations to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016 for their outstanding university offers and earning nearly U.S. $1 million of university scholarships.
47 26 3 6 5 3 90 UNITED UNITED EUROPE ASIA CANADA AUSTRALIA UNIVERSITY OFFERS* STATES KINGDOM
*Number of university offers as of June 2016
The International School Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) is the city’s 1st International Baccalaureate World School for students aged
2 to 18 years old. We are proud to have the longest history of graduating IB Diploma candidates to leading universities worldwide, including New York University, University of Melbourne, University College London and University of Hong Kong this year.
Enrolling IB Students Now +84 (8) 3898 9100 www.ishcmc.com
3 VIETNAM 7—2016
EVERYWHERE YOU GO
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Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com
4 5 Contents
WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS
From Asian fusion cuisines to good old-fashioned American NGOC TRAN barbecue, this month’s reviews are delicious readings
50 BY IMAGE FEATURES P10 DATEBOOK P20 BLACK SOLDIER FLIES P32 HAPPY NEVER AFTER With these events, you'll never Saving the world through A solo exhibition of mixed have to be bored again craft beer and soldier flies media paintings by Saigon- based artist Khoa Le P16 TROI OI P24 THE PRETENDERS Find out why pigs, books and a Stand-in lovers and pretend relatives P36 THE WHIRLWIND family temple made it into our list are among a colorful cast of fakers In conversation with legendary snooker player Jimmy White P18 BOUNCING BACK P26 LIFE ON THE EDGE Meet Dima, Ukrainian basketball Meet the mobile blade sharpening man player, hip-hop singer and hairstylist
6 7 Contents
COVER STORY WRITTEN BY IC BY NOGC TRAN An exploration of modern writing in Vietnam 38 BY IMAGE
FEATURES COLUMNS P80 PATAGONIA P88 MEAN GIRLS…AND BOYS P34 MONEY TALK The southern end of South From humiliation to physical Comparing investment risks America in pictures violence, school bullying is an between here and abroad epidemic that needs to stop P77 THE ROOF OF INDOCHINA P35 LEGAL EASE An easy 20-minute cable car P90 CHILD’S PLAY Perks of having dual citizenship ride versus an arduous two- After-school programs give kids a safe day trek to Mt. Fansipan place to exercise their brains—and P61 CHEERS! their bodies—while having fun Stop and smell the rosé P92 TELL TAIL SIGNS Vietnam’s native breeds of dogs
8 CONGRATULATIONS THE CLASS OF 2016
OVER 40% of our pupils have received offers from TOP 100WORLD RANKED UNIVERSITIES .
Some of them are: University of Hong Kong Top 2 in ASIA – Top 30 of the World Melbourne University Australia Top 33 of the World YonSei University Top 3 in South Korea – Top 18 in ASIA University of California San Diego Top 21 in USA – Top 39 of the World University of Amsterdam Top 19 in EUROPE – Top 55 of the World City University of Hong Kong Top 7 in ASIA – Top 57 of the World
9 Datebook What's on this month...
JULY 16 What: Giant Swing with Masa Niwayama, NK Chan & Friends Where: The Observatory (5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4); 9pm (free before 10pm, VND100,000 after) About: Masa Niwayama moved from Hokkaido to Bangkok and began collecting vinyl over 10 years ago. With a collection of Cuban, Latin, African, spiritual jazz to reggae and vintage JULY 9 luk thung & molam he began to play gigs around Asia, includ- What: Contemporary Vietnamese Dance and Music ing Tokyo, Osaka, Okinawa, Hokkaido, Bangkok, Chiang Mai Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Cong Truong, D1); 8pm; and others. His popular party "Giant Swing," which features tickets start at VND200,000 top Japanese and European DJs, has been going since 2010. About: Held annually in July, the program is dedicated to Contact: Visit Facebook: theobservatoryhcmc for more info premiering new works in music and dance by Vietnamese and international composers and choreographers. This year’s performance is called Gone Through Love by choreographers Nguyen Phuc Hung and Nguyen Phuc Hai, featuring Tran Hoang Yen, Nguyen Thu Trang, Phan Tieu Ly, Sung A Lung, Phan Thai Binh and Nguyen Minh Tam. Contact: Call 38237419 or 090 360 4539 for more info JULY 9-AUGUST 2 What: Sketching Vietnamese History Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Cong Truong, D1); 8pm; tickets start at VND200,000 About: Sketching Vietnamese History is the first major solo exhibition by senior established artist Quach Phong. This exhibi- tion showcases the remarkable ambition of a man who, as an artist, has witnessed major scenes of war; endured the struggle JULY 19 of a nation in its Communist cause; and assisted the growth of artistic networks between North, Central and South Vietnam— What: Antonin Dvorak’s “From the New World” Symphony all of which he has drawn and painted, eventually becoming one Where: Saigon Opera House (7 Cong Truong, of the first government arts administrators in post-war Vietnam. D1); 8pm; tickets start at VND200,000 While Quach Phong has been celebrated as a painter and About: Maestro Le Phi Phi is the most successful Viet- war-sketch artist, his most recent undertaking celebrates the namese in his field on the international stage, having art of lacquer in a most ambitious manner. Believing in the worked with numerous orchestras all over Europe. He power of the visual in the telling of history, this extensive body will lead a performance of Antonin Dvorak’s “From the of work will portray the major battles of Vietnamese histo- New World” Symphony, a cultural masterwork about the ry; the key innovations of Vietnamese folk arts and culture; spirit of America’s freedom. The program will also fea- Vietnam’s agricultural and urban development while also ture talented Macedonian flautist Strasho Temkov in conveying the role of education in this country’s growth. works that brings forth the beauty of purity and peace. Contact: Visit www.san-art.org for more info Contact: Call 38237419 or 090 360 4539 for more info
10 Scan This for more info
JULY 20 What: Vietnam International Fingervvve Guitar Festival 2016 Trust Allied Pickfords Where: Nhac vien Thanh pho (112 Nguyen Du, to make your move D1); 8pm; tickets start at VND600,000 simpler, seamless and stress-free. Relax, we About: This is an annual event that has been organized carry the load. continuously in Asia since 2010. With the participation of famous finger-style guitarists from many countries, this year sees 16 concerts in seven countries: Japan, Ko- ALLIED PICKFORDS VIETNAM rea, Taiwan, China, Vietnam, Malaysia and Singapore. HANOI: Room 302, 3rd oor, 12A Ho Xuan Huong St Fingerstyle guitar is the technique of playing the guitar by Of ce: +84 4 3943 1511 plucking the strings directly with the fingertips, fingernails, HCMC: 8th oor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan St, D1 or picks attached to fingers, as opposed to flatpicking (picking Of ce: +84 8 3910 1220 individual notes with a single plectrum called a flatpick). www.alliedpickfords.com.vn Contact: Visit www.ifsgf.com for more info
11 JULY 30
What: Network Girls HCMC JULY 20-23 Where: Saigon’s Lookout (37bis Ky Con, D1); 6:30pm-9pm; VND500,000 What: Vietnam International Electrical Tech- About: Network Girls gives expats and local female nology & Equipment Exhibition working professions in Saigon a channel to meet each Where: SECC (799 Nguyen Van Linh, D7); free other and exchange ideas on work, living in South- About: This event showcases products from elec- east Asia and the day-to-day happenings in Saigon. tronics and electrical goods, power, renewable en- Contact: Visit Facebook: networkgirlshcmc for more info ergy and energy conservation industries. Contact: Visit www.vietnam-ete.com for more info
JULY 16-24 What: The Kohler Bold. Art Exhibition Where: Saigon House (77 Nguyen Hue, D1); free admission About: In its journey to Southeast Asia, Bold. Art Exhibition, with the theme “Rooted in the Past, Looking into the Fu- ture,” will present 12 patriotic sculptures by six artists from Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines and Vietnam. In addition, featured in the event are artisan premium sinks from the Artist Editions of Kohler, in which the Derring sink—the latest product from Kohler—is high- lighted thanks to its outstandingly fine patterns along the basin and masterfully crafted by hand. This is the first time a Bold. Art Exhibition has been organized in Vietnam. Contact: Visit blog.kohlerboldart.com for more info JULY 30 What: 365 – The Fifth Anniversary Live Concert Where: Nguyen Du Stadium; tickets start at VND330,000 About: 365 DaBand have been firmly stamping their footprint on VPop’s music scene and are ready to celebrate. 365 is a pop/ hip-hop/R&B Vietnamese boy band under record label Vietnam Artist Agency. They made their debut in 2010 with the single Awakening. They also have their own reality show titled Khao Khat Dinh Cao that follows the group's life prior to their success. Contact: Visit vaa-agency.com for more info
AUGUST 3-5 What: Vietfish 2016 Where: SECC (799 Nguyen Van Linh, D7) About: Vietnam Fisheries International Exhibition is a three-day event that showcases products from the agricul- ture and forestry industry. Every year, nearly 200 local and international exhibitors participate in the show. Visitors can expect to see: frozen seafood products, processed and canned seafood, dried seafood, fish sauce, machines and equipment for processing, packaging and many more. Contact: Visit www.en.vietfish.com.vn for more info
JULY 23 What: DJ Taku Hirayama Where: The Observatory (5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4); 9pm (free before 10pm, VND100,000 after) About: Hailing from Fukuoka in the South of Japan, Taku currently lives in Hong Kong. He’s currently doing bookings for and operating a small underground club called Oma, which has become a pivotal venue in Hong Kong’s underground dance music scene. Taku is also a resident DJ at the vinyl-only and newly opened venue MyHouse, Berlin-inspired Italian osteria Mitte and Woobar at W Hong Kong. Taku’s sound can be considered an organic one; he takes inspiration and influence from his environmental surroundings, particularly when those surroundings are natural. Contact: Visit Facebook: theobservatoryhcmc for more info
12 OCTOBER 15 2016: A Transition Year What: Queen of Women Power 2016 Where: The Adora Premium (803 Nguyen Van Linh, D7) Paci c Cross Vietnam (Formerly Blue Cross Vietnam) About: Queen of Women Power 2016, organized by Wom- en Leaders International Networking – WLIN, is an event ANNOUNCEMENT: We are happy to say that we are to honor women leaders who have achieved notable ac- now operating under our new name complishments in sectors such as economy, culture, society PACIFIC CROSS VIETNAM. and community activities. Queen of Women Power 2016 Thank you for continued support in 2016. aims to promote a strong image of “modern and beauti- All the best in the year of the Monkey! ful women,” both domestically and internationally. Contact: For candidate registration/sponsorship, call Hoa Tam at For more information please visit 091 660 2822. Visit www.womenleadersforum.vn for more info. www.bluecross.com.vn
AUGUST 6 What: The 4th Danang International Marathon Where: Danang About: A four distances—full marathon, half marathon, 10km and 5km—fun run for charity. The marathon is the first pro- fessional marathon in Vietnam certified by IAAF - AIMS (International Association of Athletics Federations and As- sociation of International Marathons and Distance Races). Contact: Email [email protected] for more info
13 The Bulletin Promotions and news in HCMC and beyond...
tamthanhbeachresort.com), the first four-star international TAM THANH BEACH RESORT & SPA OPENS resort on Tam Thanh beach. The resort has 16 rooms and villas, Hoi An Tourist Service Joint Stock Company announced the Ocean Breeze restaurant, 50-seat meeting, swimming pool, grand opening of Tam Thanh Beach Resort & Spa (www. and a six-room spa that includes a steam bath and a Jacuzzi.
the most raw and exclusive artworks. These outstanding THE HEALING BRUSH EXHIBITION paintings are unconventional, individualistic, instinctive and Last month’s The Healing Brush exhibition brought together hyperbolic in their nature. Brut Art favors spontaneity over artists from Tinh Truc Gia (The Peaceful Bamboo Family)—a an intellectual approach and promotes no contact with the Hue-based organization that supports the disabled by mainstream art world—the outsiders—direct and raw, and collaborating and empowering them to create as artists. always emphasizing the emotion rather than the intellect. Tinh Truc Gia offers art as a therapy for those with mental The Healing Brush brought these ‘outsiders’ onto impairment to help them integrate into the community the main stage, with the goal of reshaping our views through creative activities. These programs, which combine on unconventional artists. Visit their e-exhibition sales-oriented exhibitions and open-painting workshops, now to view these native artworks: https://issuu. have helped create a network of investors and collectors, com/thehealingbrush/docs/catalogue_eng. especially lovers of Brut Art, which encompasses some of
The championship will host some of the best golfers in HO TRAM PLAYERS CHAMPIONSHIP the world including defending champion, Sergio Garcia, The Asian Tour unveiled a new flagship event, the Ho who will return to defend his title next April, the week after Tram Players Championship which will take place April the year’s first major, The Masters. The USD1.2 million 13-16, 2017 at The Bluffs Ho Tram Strip. “The Players’ showpiece will become the richest prize purse for a full- Championship will be the highlight of the Asian Tour year field Asian Tour event and also receive an increase in world and we could not think of a more deserving venue and ranking points given its increased ‘flagship’ status. event than Ho Tram,” said Kyi Hla Han, Commissioner of The Ho Tram Players Championship will be broadcast the Asian Tour. “The inaugural [Ho Tram Open] year not around the world in over 180 countries, reaching over only put Ho Tram on the map, but has reinforced Vietnam’s 740 million households, making it one of the most position as a growing force in the world of golf and sports.” watched sporting events in Vietnam’s history.
14 ANANTARA MUI NE PROMOTION Anantara Mui Ne is offering 30 percent off on Pool Villas and Suites. In a two-bedroom suite you can relax and soak in a Jacuzzi or watch the sun set on your balcony.and pool view. Alternatively, hide away in a spacious private villa, either beside a tropical lagoon or the sweeping sands of Mui Ne Beach, relishing the pure indulgence of a personal pool and an outdoor dining pavilion. With such a generous discount on offer, you might be tempted to extend your stay, or use your saving for unforgettable experiences, be it spa pampering, the romance of Dining by Design, or fascinating trips to explore the region’s heritage and culture. For booking or more info, contact [email protected]
CARAVELLE SAIGON SAYS YES TO GLOBAL WELLNESS DAY Proud to be the first and only official property in Vietnam celebrating Global Wellness Day (GWD) 2016, a non- profit event dedicated to living well both physically and spiritually, Caravelle Saigon tailored a healthy program during the month of June. Highlights included BodyCombat and Zumba sessions conducted by California Fitness & Yoga instructors on its rooftop with Aldo Belkouar and Henri Hubert, the two Ambassadors of GWD in Vietnam. Nearly 100 people participated including the executive management, Caravelle associates and families plus in- house guests joined this energizing fitness-orientated workout to not only get the circulation flowing but also to support a healthy and stress-free lifestyle.
BAY HOTEL HO CHI MINH PROMOTION In celebration of the hotel opening, Bay Hotel Ho Chi Minh (bayhotelhcm.com) introduces a special room package starting from VND1.5 million++ per room per night. This package is applicable until October 30, 2016 and includes: buffet Breakfast for up to 2 daily, unlimited Wi-Fi access, unlimited local calls, minibar (replenished once daily), complimentary one way transfer to airport if booking is made directly with the hotel and with a minimum three nights stay, and more.
15 TROI OI! The country in numbers
YEAR-OLD VIETNAMESE WOMAN a scream echoing from an abandoned well near the field she survived nine days trapped in a well. H’Van had worked and found her trapped 20 meters below. H’Van Ajun left her house for work in the morning was admitted to the hospital in severe condition with a and failed to return later that evening. Family fractured left rib. The patient is now in stable condition, but members and local residents began searching her memory was damaged because she failed to recognize 60 but to no avail. Nine days later locals heard family members, according to her sister.
WALKED by Europeans Simon Niggli and Christoph Obbmascher to raise funds for underprivileged KM children in Vietnam. The two spent more than a year walking across 19 countries since their departure on January 18, 2015. All donations 7,000raised during their trip were transferred to World Vision, an education and development organization. The sponsorship is part of World Vision’s Area Development Program, which has been in place in Vietnam for 15 years. There are now 40 Area Development Programs and 16 special projects in 15 provinces throughout the country.
OVERPASS, linking a roundabout VND near Tan Son Nhat International 15 TRILLION Airport with downtown Saigon, is planned to help ease traffic congestion. The 9.5km overpass, starting at Lang Cha Ca roundabout in Tan Binh District and ending in Binh Thanh District, will help reduce serious gridlocks around the airport, said Le Quoc Binh, CEO of Ho Chi Minh City Infrastructure Investment (CII) JSC. The company, which has proposed to execute the project under a built- operate-transfer (BOT) agreement with the city, expects construction to start next year and be completed in three years. Streets leading to Tan Son Nhat have been suffering from constant traffic congestion as more than 30,000 vehicles enter and leave the airport every day.
NEW CAVES discovered in central Vietnam. Officials from Quang Binh Province said a team from the British Caving Research Association and experts from the Vietnam National University, forest rangers and locals made the discovery. Among the new caves is one that stretches nearly three kilometers and was probably formed five million years ago under what used to be a lake. The water is gone but traces of strong currents are 57visible on the cave walls. Howard Limbert from the British cave association said the five-million-year-old cave has been named Hoa Huong, after the husband and wife who helped with the discovery. The association has been exploring caves in Quang Binh since 1990, creating a map to 311 of them, including the world’s largest cave—Son Doong.
16 VIETNAMESE were caught in Japan for stealing melons. Police in Japan's Asahi City arrested the group after they stole 112 melons. The arrest was made soon after the suspects made off with the melons from a farm in Boso Peninsula. The men raided the farm at around 2:30am and targeted a brand of melon called Iioka Takami, a specialty of the city, valued at USD640, which 6 they said they had intended to eat.
ENDANGERED PANGOLINS were rescued by a wildlife center in Vietnam. Police in Ninh Binh arrested three people who were trafficking the animals from Hue to consumers in the north. Pangolins, also known as anteaters, are facing extinction because some consider their meat a delicacy while their scales are used to make 22 boots and shoes. The scales are also used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat conditions such as psoriasis and poor circulation, despite the lack of adequate scientific evidence.
was the winning bid for a pair of handmade 500-kilogram jars made by famous artisan USD Pham Anh Dao in an auction in Hanoi. However, the bidder refused to pay, citing 270,000 the excuse that he had only intended to pay VND3 billion for the jars, he will lose his VND50 million deposit. Second highest bidder Do Quy Hai, President of Hai Phat Corporation, eventually paid VND6 billion for them.
VIETNAMESE UNIVERSITIES named in Asia's QS list. Vietnam has taken up five spots on the list of 350 top Asian universities recently released by British education analyst Quacquarelli Symonds. The Hanoi university is ranked 139th, up 52 spots from 2015, while the Ho Chi Minh City school climbed 54 spots to the 147th position. Can Tho University takes number 251, while Hue University and Hanoi University of Science and 5Technology share the 301st position. Quacquarelli Symonds says its annual ranking is based on schools' scores in nine areas such as academic reputation, faculty to student ratio, citations per paper, staff with PhD and proportion of international students.
17 IF YOU’D ASKED Dmytro Guchko (call him “Dima”) 15 years ago what he was born to do, he wouldn’t have hesitated to tell you that his life’s sole purpose was to play bas- ketball for the Ukraine. Like most professional athletes—including his father before him, who’d played vol- leyball for the Soviet Union—his chosen sport was all he knew. Prepped since early childhood, Dima studied in Pennsylvania under an athletic scholarship, and then re- turned home to play for the big leagues. Everything was going according to plan until one day, after noticing that Dima had been left sitting on the bench for a few games, his father decided to go over the coach’s head and ask the president of the association what was going on. Word got back to the coach, who responded by cutting Dima from the team altogether. It was “Thanks for B O UNCING playing, Dima, your entire career is now over.” Where do you go from there? You’ll be forgiven if your answer isn’t “go to Vietnam and open a hair salon in Thao Dien,” but these days that’s B A C K exactly where you’ll find Dima, train- MEET DIMA, UKRAINIAN BASKETBALL PLAYER, ing young hairdressers and dealing out HIP-HOP SINGER AND HAIRSTYLIST some very fine international-style cuts. It’s not an exile by any means—since leaving professional basketball, he’s had TEXT BY MICHAEL ARNOLD an exceptionally successful career as a IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN stylist (and he’s arguably been even more successful as a member of a famous Ukrainian hip-hop group, but that’s another story to be told another time). His greatest achievement in life hasn’t watch, maybe one day…’ I was in this “I went to different schools, to differ- turned out to have anything to do with salon for two or three months, and she ent courses and actually started calling shooting baskets, but rather helping to actually paid me. This lady actually paid people to practice on,” Dima remembers. save a child with spinal cancer following me to be there. So that’s what made me “You have to understand, after being a an unexpected encounter with Cris- go even more, because I could learn and professional basketball player, where tiano Ronaldo. If Dima’s story means have some money to get around the city. you have newspapers writing about you anything at all, it’s that when you reach Two months later, I started cutting hair; and stuff, and then you call people, ‘let that point where you have nowhere three months later, I accidentally won a me cut your hair, man,’ I would have to left to go, that’s when destiny starts championship. There weren’t too many step it up a notch with my emotional playing some of its best tricks on you. nominees, and those who were there, thing—because it was like I gave up bas- “It was like a big drama,” says Dima they just didn’t do a good job. I was the ketball for hairdressing, and no one will of the day his world of basketball un- only one who did a very decent cut. So understand this in professional sports. I ravelled, “because I didn’t know what they just decided to give me first place, was always hiding that fact. I was taken to do with my life, and my friend, he and I was like seriously cutting hair for from the heavy athlete's world to hair- was a hairdresser, said ‘why don’t you not even two days. Everybody said ‘OK, dressing, where at least 50 percent of the come to my salon, I know you know he needs to learn now.’ Then everybody hairdressers are gay, minimum, espe- how to cut hair…’” This wasn’t in fact was just pushing me around in differ- cially where I’m from, you know what I true—Dima’s experience in grooming ent schools… and at some stage—I just mean? This put me in a position where hair was essentially limited to knowing liked doing it. Even when I didn’t know I did not have the chance to be a regular how to shave—but being drunk after how to cut hair, people left the chair hairdresser. I either needed to be really a party at the time, the idea seemed like…. ‘Yeah… this is cool, man.’ That good or just get on with something else.” to make sense, and so he soon found was my appreciation. That’s when I Making the decision to take hair- himself being introduced to his friend’s knew that I would stay there, because dressing seriously meant Dima had salon’s owner as “our new stylist.” people appreciate what you’re doing. to “come out” to his staunchly athletic Inexplicably, the bluff worked. “She They did since the very beginning.” father. “When I told my dad I was be- said ‘OK, what do you know how to do?’ Dima’s background as a professional coming a hairdresser,” he recalls, “he was and I said ‘I don’t know… nothing!’” athlete turned out to limit his options like, ‘is there something wrong with you says Dima. “Then she said, ‘sit down and as a hairdresser in an unexpected way. son? Are you OK, want to talk?’ He did
18 were talking about it,” he says. “It was the finals of the European champion- ship, Portugal and Spain, and so they invited me to a big football show to talk in the studio. Then when I was waiting to go and talk about what I did, before me there was a little kid, he had cancer, and they were raising money for him. They were talking about him, and the whole story was about this boy, why he was sick, and that he was a big fan of Dynamo Kiev and the Ukrainian national team. Then I came out, it’s my turn, and they say ‘Hey, you cut Cristiano Ronaldo’s hair, how did it happen, how much money did he give you, how was he in person,’ and all this and that. I said, ‘Let’s cut that whole crap, I’d like to help this kid, and I want to sell this jersey that I have for as much as we can, and let’s make it a lot.’ And the next day we had another show, a political talk show. There was one guy, he was very rich, the owner of a football team. He called, he came to the program and brought two stacks of money, went on the TV, and he said ‘Dima, I want to buy that jersey.’ I sold that jersey for USD200,000.” Months later, on the way to the airport to take a flight to Vietnam, where he’d been recruited to help set up a Toni&Guy salon, Dima received a call to let him know that the boy had recovered from his surgery. He never got the chance to see him again, however—by the time he landed in Saigon, the Ukrainian Revolution had broken out and there were violent not understand, he got upset, actually, I got a phone call, I was in my hometown clashes on the streets of Kiev. Even he was like, ‘how could you touch the of Lviv at the time,” says Dima. “Portugal though the Toni&Guy position didn’t hair of some girls’ or something like were based in Poland, but they had a work out, he felt it wise to stay right that, it was an ugly comment.” It wasn’t game against Sweden in the Ukraine. So here, where it was relatively safe. until Dima had completed studies in they rented the whole hotel for them. I Two years of unpredictable fortunes a fine Moscow academy that his fa- got asked if I could go to cut hair, simple later—along with some fairly intense ther changed his tune: “Then, my dad as that. I went there, and I saw the basketball matches playing for Sai- couldn’t find the time to get a cut with whole Portuguese team, and I was like, gon Heat—and you’ll now find Dima me, because I was so busy with every- what?? And then Christiano comes and at 90/10 Quoc Huong fronting A Cut one else, and he was like bitching to he says, ‘So you’re my hairdresser.’ I’m Above, a pleasant, well-equipped salon everybody, ‘can I get a haircut please!’” like, yeah, I’m the hairdresser. After I got of his own in a warm Thao Dien villa. searched by an army of police and stuff.” Be sure to ask him about his experiences “I gave him his regular famous cut as a famous rapper while you’re there— that he cuts all the time, he doesn’t the man has a lot more stories to tell. THE CHRISTIANO CUT change his style,” says Dima. “That’s “I like to share things that can help Driven to be as exceptional a the sort of cut I like doing, those short other athletes realize that there’s a life hairdresser as he’d been as a basketball lines, creative things for a guy. I gave after sports,” says Dima, who plans to player, Dima spent a number of years him some advice, and I gave him the write a book about his unusual life. studying, traveling, and working in hair gel as a present, which is a purple “Where I come from, when you play various salons picking up techniques. hair gel. He went to the game later that professional, you make a lot of money, Before long, he was making more day with purple hair, I was so happy.” but then after, you spend it, and life is cutting hair for Toni&Guy in London That one haircut proved to be a not interesting anymore. You have kids than most people—let alone hairdress- lucky break for Dima, who suddenly and stuff, but you don’t really play ball ers—were making back in the Ukraine. found himself both the focus of national anymore, and you don’t really know The day he found himself staring at the attention and the proud owner of a new how to do anything because you spent back of the head of Cristiano Ronaldo, football jersey signed by the members all your life playing sports, that’s it. So however, was another of life’s surprises. of the Portuguese national team. the message there is that if you want to “It was the European championship. “All the TV shows in the Ukraine achieve something else, you really can.”
19 FEATURE Black Soldier Flies Saving the world through craft beer and soldier flies TEXT BY TAYNE EPHRAIM IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN
IN THE BACK LOTS o f Thu The Problem squeeze all the moisture and the oil out, Duc’s sprawling university campus one and then ship them around the world The story begins with a fishing expedi- man and his hand-built fly farm is on a to be reconstituted into fish food and mission to save the world’s oceans. It’s a tion off the coast of Sierra Leone, where chicken feed. These little fish, the correct quest that involves the unlikely com- Nick was living with his then girlfriend, term is “pelagic” fish, they’re very high bination of craft beer, an endangered who was attached to the British Em- in protein and used to be cheap, but anteater and an oversized tropical fly, bassy at the time. Some friends had over the last 10 to 20 years the supply and Nick Piggott plans to take it all the a boat and got him to go fishing with has dropped through the floor, and the way. He’s a man out to change the world. them. He was hooked. He then started cost of it has shot up through the roof. “Basically it’s like this,” he says reading up on ideal spots for fishing So now people are trying to find other as we chat at a downtown café with holidays and all things fishing, and that’s sources of protein. Right now they’re the monsoon crashing down outside when he came upon the Armageddon sending boats down to the Antarctic the windows. “The oceans are run- that’s unfolding beneath the waves. to start fishing out all the krill—that ning out of fish at the same time as “I started reading things like, go fish- teeny and oh-so-vital bottom part of the the world’s middle class population is ing now, because in 15 years time there’ll food chain. It’s an absolute disaster.” booming. There’s a serious problem be no fish left. I had no idea it was that The race is on. As the world’s middle and the world is just waking up to it.” bad,” he says. “I knew, for example, that class population explodes, particularly Nick’s answer to this problem lies bluefin tuna are becoming really rare in regions like Southeast Asia, India with an unlikely suspect—the black because the Japanese are fishing it out and China, the demand for fish, a soldier fly—a large, wasp-like insect of the water, and the same with the staple food in this part of the world, is native to Vietnam he has hatching by Brits and the North Atlantic cod, but outstripping the rate at which they are the tens of thousands out at the Re- what you don’t really read about are the able to replenish themselves in the sea. search Institute for Biotechnology and shoals of small fish that nobody really In order to keep up with the demand, Environment on the edge of Saigon. eats but get fished up to be processed fish farms are popping up all over the But to understand Nick’s mis- and then fed to other animals. They’re world to try to plug the gap. As one sion, we have to go back before the catching something like 5 million tons pundit put it, “If aquaculture didn’t insect farming and aquatic doom and a year of these little fish. They cook already exist, we’d have to invent it.” gloom, all the way, in fact, to Africa. them up in these big industrial ovens, But therein lies the problem.
20 “All those fish farmers are fish- to the region. “Black soldier flies don’t powders to extend virility. It’s an animal ing the little fish out of the sea,” Nick bite or spread disease and I have it on whose plight is dear to the heart of Luis explains. “They’re raising their fish good authority that they are not a pest, Fernandez, the man behind Tê Tê beer. on other fish. Sometimes at a ratio of in the technical sense of the term.” “I’m a biochemist. I’m not actu- more than one to one, which means The process is quite simple. Nick ally a brewmaster,” Luis announces. more fish are going into the fish farm breeds the flies in his laboratory and fly “But I do love beer.” The name Tê Tê than are coming out of it. It’s insane.” farm on campus. Some of the larvae grow has two meanings. One is a strong And this is where Nick’s black into adults and reproduce, while the feeling, which Luis describes as “pleas- soldier flies come into the picture. bulk of them are slaughtered and then ant and weird at the same time. Like reprocessed into high-grade fish feed. an orgasm.” The other is the Viet- The Idea Already he has a number of takers in the namese name for the pangolin. Nick’s brainchild is to use protein-rich area, even in this early research phase “It was when we were trying to come insect larvae in place of pelagic fish. A with the project barely off the ground. up with a name for our beer that we simple enough concept, you’d think, but “How exactly do you slaughter fly discovered the pangolin and its sad sto- one not without its obstacles. Since the larvae?” I ask. I’m imagining a kind of ry,” Luis explains. “See, the saddest part mad cow disease epidemic, food moni- scaled-down slaughterhouse for insect about the pangolin is that it’s such an toring bodies have set up strict rules as to vermin with a miniature conveyer belt obscure animal that no one really knows what may and may not be fed to livestock and clockwork mechanical guillotine. about it, and so nobody cares. And the animals, and this includes fish. Insects, “You freeze them.” people that do know about it believe it it seems, are yet to make the agenda, still “And what do you feed them?” has magical properties, and they try to banned by default for the time being. “Believe it or not, beer. Have catch it and turn it into a powder that “There’s a lot of excitement about you heard of the pangolin?” they think can cure cancer and increase the project. It has the potential to really virility and whatever else they believe. blow up, and Vietnam in particular The Beer So the hope is that through this beer with its marshy Mekong basin is well and its name we can at least raise some The pangolin looks something like a kind of awareness to help this animal.” placed to prosper from it, which is why two-legged armored personnel vehicle I’m here and not somewhere else,” says Luis and his brother have been from the future crossed with an echid- brewing their line of pangolin-inspired Nick. “But nobody, it seems, wants to na. It’s a curious scaly critter with an move first. The EU is waiting for more Belgian wheat beer for about a year now, appetite for ants and holds the title of which is the same amount of time Nick research and the Vietnamese govern- having the longest tongue in the ani- ment also. But it works. You can trust has been raising his flies out in Thu Duc. mal kingdom. It also holds one other “As a scientist, I love the project,” me on that when I say this stuff works. title, and a much less celebrated one at And it’s going to work miracles.” Luis says, speaking of Nick’s work. “It’s that. The pangolin is the world’s most all about finding a sustainable way to The black soldier fly is Nick’s smuggled animal; thank the affluent and ideal candidate: quick to gestate, easy feed the world’s booming population under-educated Chinese for grinding without stripping the oceans bare. When to raise, abnormally high in protein exotic animals and animal parts into compared to other insects, and native Nick told me about what he was doing,
21 “I sometimes go over there with a handful of treats,” Nick says. “Like to see?” He drops a handful of writhing maggots into the palm of my hand. “These have got to be the big- gest maggots I’ve ever seen,” I say. “These ones are only medium size,” Nick says, taking them back and turning them over in his hand. “The adults get to more than half the size of my pinky finger. Then they go into pupa, like a butterfly’s chrysalis. When they come out they’re black soldier flies. But don’t wor- ry, the name is misleading. There’s noth- ing militant about them. They don’t bite. In fact the adult flies don’t need to eat at all. Nine days to breed then they die. All the nutrients they need are stored in them when they’re larvae. That’s why they’re so protein-rich and make such great feed. Watch this.” Nick goes over to the pigpen, a rustle of excited snorting from within, he drops the handful of right away I wanted to be a part of it.” agrees. “And perhaps an odd place larvae into their trough and the pigs And that way, strangely to start a fly farm. But it’s not with- go into a frenzy. “They love it. You can enough, was through his beer. out certain benefits… and charms.” imagine what it’s like with the fish.” Luis and his cohorts were at the Nick points out the separating ma- The first colony of flies Nick hand- Belgian beer festival brewing out the chine, which was built by the engineer- raised himself from larvae caught on side of a shipping container in Cargo ing faculty to his own specifications. campus with use of his ingeniously Bar when Nick stumbled across their “Like I said, having your laboratory handmade traps from which he collect- enterprise. They got to talking and based inside a university campus has ed his first fly eggs, rather than going realized their two projects could benefit its advantages.” When the machine through the inconvenience of ordering one other quite nicely. “Luis came to was finished, created just the right size larvae online. the lab at the university, which is just to be hitched to the back of a moped, “One hundred percent locally around the corner essentially from Nick found himself seated backwards sourced,” he laughs. “Hand-reared flies. his brewery, and had a look around on his intern’s Wave carting it wag- These babies are gonna help save the with his science brain and realized on-style across campus back to his lab. world.” I could use some help,” Nick says. Nick introduces me to the interns It’s an uncertain future into which As it turns out, Nick’s flies, like many in question: Thu and Nhon. They take Nick and his quest is headed, but he Saigon denizens, have quite the taste me out back to where Nick has his set has high hopes. “What you see here for crafted beer. Well, the waste prod- up of netted-off breeding pens amongst is only the beginning,” he says. “The uct, in any case. For each new batch of the elephant grass. He shows me around next step is to move from laboratory to beer Luis brews, he bags up and sends his jerry-built facility, which is like a factory: scale up and expand. And as the processing waste of wheat, rye and series of bird aviaries but for insects. the volume of larvae grows, the hope bran over to Nick at his laboratory Industrial trays of fermenting beer waste is that the production of Saigon’s craft to raise his next brood of soldier fly line the floor. Nick runs them through beer brands like Tê Tê grows along larvae. “I’ve tried a whole slew of waste with a rake and the trays suddenly come with it. We have a lot of hungry little products for these flies, but noth- seething to life in a mass of fly larvae. mouths to feed. And those mouths, with ing gets them going more than what I’m reminded of the roiling insides of some luck, are going to help us to eat comes out of Luis’s vats. Hot, steamy, a volcano. The pigmy pigs squeal in our way out of the mess we’re in. The fermenting beer hops,” says Nick. excitement from the pen next door. world’s oceans may just depend on it.” And thus the unlikely part- nership was forged. “Saving the world through craft beer and soldier flies,” Nick quips.
The Lab The university offered Nick his own space for the project on their research campus and threw in a couple of eager interns for good measure. I ride out along the highway, following the snaking construction of the Saigon Metro, out to Thu Duc where Nick has his labora- tory set up in a grassy back lot behind the research building, to take a look. I find Nick’s green Bonus parked out front. Insects shrill all around and white butterflies flitter over the long grass. The research building itself is like a half-for- gotten Soviet rocket silo in the jungle. “It is a strange edifice,” Nick
22 “BAI” ADVERTISING AGENCY “XIN CHAO” CREATIVE CONNECTIVITY AGENCY TEXT BY NPD KHANH IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN & HAPPINESS
GIANT BILLBOARDS, co-founder/CEO of Happiness Saigon the core of the whole working-process. PRINT AND TELEVI- to find out more, what this new kind With slow, fast and real-time content SION were regarded as the top tiers of marketing agency is all about. that can be adapted here and now if of marketing, the best money could “Instead of advertising or pushing needed. With Co-Creative Management buy. However, with the advent of the the image of particular brands in a where the triangle client-agency-con- internet, and social media titans such singular way consumers, we create ways sumer will be in constant interaction as Google, Facebook and YouTube for brands to generate connections with to get the creative concept and the over the last decade, this has changed their customers through a consumer content first right and then great. considerably. The consumers are more journey centric approach connect,” Alan What Happiness Saigon does is a so- connected to the internet than ever, 40 explains. “At Happiness Saigon we be- phisticated weaving of digital tools, tra- million internet users in Vietnam, 30 lieve we no longer focus on the consum- ditional marketing instruments and the million smartphone owners, and this er, but on his behavior, and the multiple language of human emotions to imprint is fast growing beating the Asia Pacific amount of connections the consumer has a brand into the lives and experience of penetration rates. Citing wider reaching with multi-media touchpoints. He has its audience. One recent example is its scope and far better cost effectiveness, evolved because of the digital era. Our work for Coca-Cola Share a Coke, Share slowly but inevitably, digital market- job is still about finding strategies, and a feeling testifying that marketing re- ing has been taking over its traditional creative concepts that are relevant and quires a great deal of creativity as well as counterpart. And this requires adver- will lever cognitive or emotional connec- a deep understanding of the consumers. tising agencies to adapt, and evolve. tions, but we need to think exponentially The agency’s approach proved to Such an agency is Happiness Saigon and translate this message in 3603 be successful. Over the past year and a (www.happiness-saigon.com) - recent- content along that consumer journey.” half, Happiness Saigon has garnered an ly launching its creative connectivity “For the next few years Happiness impressive portfolio, having designed agency vision on the 3rd of June with is planning to prove its unique re- and carried out many successful cam- its 1-2-3 Connectivity seminar con- sponsiveness to change, and it will be paigns for big clients such as Coca-Cola, sisting of interactive sessions present- about re-inventing the category and NIVEA, Bosch, UNICEF, among others. ed by co-founders Karen Corrigan, even the business itself. Happiness Moving ahead, Happiness Saigon Geoffrey Hantson and Alan Cerutti. says goodbye to the old era of adver- looks forward to expand its name and Happiness Saigon is the new kid on tising,” Alan says. “Both in the work base in the region as well as proving its the block in Vietnam’s agency land- and in the way we work. ‘Creativity’ is unique responsiveness to changes. And scape. Happiness focusses on thinking still remaining at the core. Because it’s it’s off to a great start. In June, Happi- that over encompasses traditional (TV, creativity that will make sure brands ness Saigon won 14 shortlists and 2 Li- print, billboards) and digital marketing. will not only pay ‘Share of Voice’ but ons at the International Festival of Cre- And as such develop communication will also earn ‘Share of Choice.’” ativity Cannes Lions, proving to lead the that delivers happiness, as happiness Happiness is becoming a new kind of industry by leading the way and showing is known to be an economic lever. Oi agency that works in a new kind of way. that Vietnam can compete on the global had an interview with Alan Cerutti – Where KPI’s and dashboards will be at scale when it comes to creativity too.
23 FEATURE
TEXT BY NPD KHANH IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN The Pretenders Stand-in lovers and pretend relatives NPD KHANH are among a colorful cast of fakers Text by NGOC TRAN Images by
“I’VE MET 25 SETS OF partner—and solicit business on the in- clutched my cellphone and prayed those PARENTS and have worn 50 wed- ternet or through other service interme- guys wouldn’t call me then I remem- ding dresses,” proclaims Giang Anh, diaries such as wedding dress boutiques bered that I could turn the phone off! a 24-year-old medical student. “But I or wedding photography studios. I wasn’t thinking straight that day.” have never signed a marriage certifi- Her first assignment was nerve In contrast, the equally fake divorce cate.” Before you jump to conclusions, wrecking. “My first client was a gay man that followed three months later was Anh is not a con woman out to swin- who couldn’t come out to his ultra-con- a hushed procedure to which only the dle men, she’s a professional bride for servative parents,” shares Anh. “He had ‘jilted husband’ and his family were hire and the grooms are her clients. a good job and an image to uphold, but privy. The flashy wedding served its “My life sounds like a plot from a he lived in Hanoi and up north people purpose—nobody pestered the newly romantic comedy, doesn’t it?” says Anh. aren’t as accepting of the LGBT com- divorced man about settling down again. “Poor medical student trying to pay munity as we folks down south are. At Other clients, on the other hand, use the bills by playing bride to men whose 31, people were constantly asking him the service as a way to appease parents parents pressure them to settle down.” why he had never brought a girlfriend or uphold familial duties. For example, However, her role is not part of a film, home or even to a party. He contacted Anh’s male colleague was hired by a it’s acted out in real life in Vietnamese my company looking for a southern woman whose dying elderly parents society where traditional parents still ‘bride.’ We had a big wedding, just so didn’t want to see their only daughter expect their children to marry early - as everyone knew he was getting hitched.” left alone without a man to take care of young as 20. But the younger gener- “I was so nervous I lost 2kg during her. They made her promise to marry ation is hoping to break away from the entire process. I couldn’t eat properly before they died. A successful business- traditions, focusing more on building and I worried constantly that I might woman with no interest in marrying a career and marrying at a later age, mix up my pretend parents’ names,” before the age of 28, she hired a pretend while some require the protection of she continues. “His parents were nice groom to ease her parents’ worries. a heterosexual marriage while they go people, conservative but nice. I had “What was she to do? Months away through gender and sexuality issues. bouts of guilt for deceiving them. The from the old madam and sir’s funeral Royal Wedding, the organization wedding day was also during Valen- and she was hard-pressed to produce Anh works for, is disguised as an event tine’s week and I had received date a man lest her parents go to the grave management company. It employs proposals from three guys in my med still worrying about her. So she looked a large number of part-time actors class. I remember the wedding ceremo- around and found us. It was a match committed to a single role—romantic ny...30 minutes before the ceremony I made in heaven. No staged divorce
24 required afterwards. Everybody was VND20 million for each month after. groom/bride along with fake extended happy,” says Anh. However, not every According to Anh, despite the high relatives, wedding planning, cater- assignment has a ‘happy ending.’ payout, her colleagues often refuse ing, photography services and even “Pregnant clients are the most the assignments. “It’s the emotional fake paperwork can cost as much as complicated,” says Anh. There are no entanglement,” she explains. “It’s not VND200 million. Or clients can choose official statistics but Dr. My Hanh, head like a fake wedding where you are only the basic service of hiring a fiancée/ of the obstetrics department at Hung required to look pretty and make good fiancé for a home visit to entertain Vuong hospital, believes that one in conversations with your client in front the parents for a day or two, priced every 10 babies delivered in her hospital of the family and wedding guests. This is at VND2 million to VND3 million. belongs to a single mother. Every year as close to the real thing as you can get. Royal Wedding even offers a three- more than 1 million babies are born He takes care of her when she’s alone… year follow up service free of charge. in Vietnam. “You can say single moms which is a lot of the times. He consoles “Sometimes we’d have a client request- created my new profession. The hire her when she feels down. He takes her ing the presence of their ‘spouse’ for a rate of groom to bride is three to one.” to the hospital on the due date. He stays parent’s visit or other formal occasions.” “But there are few men willing to by her side after the birth. He is the face After the three-year expiration, follow up play pretend husband to expecting and the name her family and friends assignments are charged the usual rates. mothers,” Anh explains. That’s because associate with the baby, but he’s not Does Anh think what she’s doing they are put through far more stringent her real husband. You can’t go through is morally wrong and deceptive? “I’m conditions. Not only do they need to be something like that by just pretending.” probably the last person to be asked good looking, courteous, fashionably whether it’s right or wrong seeing as dressed and eloquent, they must also it’s how I’m making ends meet,” she love children and be dependable because replies. “But, in my honest opinion, we the service is no longer hire-a-groom, How to Apply live in an increasingly complex society. but rather hire-a-husband/father. The process of choosing a hired wife/ Who can say what is right and what is “We call them Mr. Perfect,” she husband is extensive and modeled to wrong? The people who come to us have shares. the specific needs of the client and their their reasons, and as long as they harm Not unlike homosexual clients, situation. Beyond the immediately no one, do we have a right to judge?” single mothers are under societal apparent criteria such as age, manner- There is one thing she has learned pressure and, at times, outright ridicule. isms, physical appearances and other from her years of working in the indus- For some, being a single mother is a less obvious factors such as background, try. “It’s frightening to see people living stigma that follows not only them but education, zodiac and elemental signs so recklessly and so naively. And I still also their children for the rest of their - even the client’s parents’ preferenc- get more and more work every day. lives, so the services offered by Anh’s es are taken into consideration. When you get down to it, it is only in employer serve as a protective cover. “Some parents want their in-laws to a society heavy with outdated precon- The hired husband performs every be government workers or have stable ceptions and fraught with intolerance duty a real husband would, (except for corporate jobs, while others are happy that a service like this can exist and those in the bedroom), and a rental as long as their children are happy,” she prosper. It’s easy to point fingers and contract can be as long as a year post says. The level of services and fees that say that’s illegal or morally wrong, but nuptial and comes with a high price tag: Anh’s company offers varies. The full I think we should all look at each other VND200 million for the wedding, then package, which includes renting the with a more understanding eye.”
25 FEATURE LIFE ON THE
Meet the mobile blade sharpening man TEXT BY JOHN DAVIS EDGE IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN
“HE’S ONE OF the few left gives shout every morning for the past applying the right amount of strength in Saigon; there’s no use for them couple of decades while cycling through to sharpen it,” Nam explains. Straight anymore,” says 67-year-old Thuy alleyways and neighborhoods. Nam on grinding will blunt the knife within pointing to the old man sharpening has been in this trade for longer than seconds, while too much force will her kitchen cleaver. “I’ve been using he cares to—or can—remember. He wear away the metal. “Steady hands him since I was young. Today’s society started as an apprentice to his father, are also important,” he adds. Every is wasteful. The young people now use who had worked as a sharpener for 50 knife he sharpens feels like his first something once or twice and then throw years and who passed on to him the old one, the same excitement of decades it away and buy a new one. They don’t tradition of a sharpener’s knowledge ago, yet with much more dexterity care. I can afford to buy a new knife but and skill. “It’s not because I was and artfulness. How does he know he I don’t want to, this one I’ve had for so particularly interested in the trade; I got the right edge? He does it just by long and it fits my hand perfectly. New just did not want to stay at school,” he listening to the sound and feel of the does not mean better.” Fortunately for says. Like most beginner, the truant blades as he performs a cutting gesture, Nam, people from the older generation kid made a lot of mistakes, cutting just the way our parents warned us not reject the disposable mentality. himself often and sometimes had to pay to. He files the knife's sharp end on a Nam’s business card is his recorded customers for ruining their scissors. grindstone and splash a bit of water in voice on a loop through a bullhorn: “The trick is holding the blade at between to clean away the accumulated “Mai dao oi! (Sharpen knife!),” which the angle against the grindstone and mass or to cool the hot knife down.
26 A DULL KNIFE IS THE KITCHEN’S MOST DANGEROUS TOOL
It usually takes a few minutes to gives you strength. A lot of cheaper store knives in also prompt his scorn, sharpen a knife or a pair of scissors. knives don’t have the right balance as do the mechanical sharpeners so Nam’s workstation consists of so they can be prone to rusting and popular in modern kitchens. “Every a motor-operated grinder that sits staining and not holding their edge. time you pull a knife out of the block, on the back of his motorbike (an The handles, over time, will get worn you are cutting against the wood and upgrade from the bicycle he started out and can split because of the heat.” dulling the blade. And the sharpeners with). He carries with him a small As you can see, Nam’s an expert on take way, way too much steel off.” bottle of water, a grindstone and steel, he can tell cheap from expensive Until the past decade, he sharpened sheets of sandpaper. He’s been asked at a glance. There's something about knives at dozens of restaurants, to sharpen scissors, meat-slicing the act of sharpening a knife, he says, barbers and wet markets in town blades, swords, tweezers and any that's deeply satisfying: the spin of the but now he’s lucky if he gets five metal items that have lost their edge. grinding wheel, the rocky song of metal customers a day. Nam doesn’t see a As the old man works, he chitchats meeting grit. It requires concentration bright future for his trade. A handful about how 99 percent of knives are to a degree almost transcendence. is still around but as a profession, stainless, which is a mix of chrome “A dull knife is the kitchen’s he acknowledged, knife sharpening and carbon steel. “It’s hard to find the most dangerous tool,” he continues holds little appeal for young people. right balance between your chrome absentmindedly. “A sharp knife is His own sons chose to work in other content and your carbon steel. One your friend. A sharp knife does what fields, and the few apprentices he has gives you corrosion resistance, the other you want it to do.” Wooden blocks to had over the years did not last long.
27 ANIMAL
INSTINCTSELEGANT, CURRENT, SEXY AND PRACTICAL, UMBRELLA'S PRE-FALL COLLECTION USES ANIMAL PATTERNS ALONGSIDE BOLD BLOCK COLORS TO MAKE STATEMENT PIECES FOR THE MODERN WOMAN
28 29 30 CLOTHES & ACCESSORIES UMBRELLA BY DOAN QUYNH NHI (35 LY TU TRONG, D1) PHOTOGRAPHER HUYNH LAM MODEL KIM PHUONG MAKEUP & STYLIST HIZASHI LOCATION HO DA
31 Maze HAPPY NEVER AFTER A SOLO EXHIBITION OF MIXED MEDIA PAINTINGS BY SAIGON-BASED ARTIST KHOA LE CRAIG THOMAS KHOA LE Interview by Images provided by
KHOA LE is a young visual artist inspiration because it is almost the that when we become adults, we all are who also works as an illustrator and first approach to beauty; a version of induced to forget them, unconsciously or an author of short stories and picture "literary-arts" for children (possibly consciously, because we assume they are books for children. Her diverse skill through the first picture book or just "childish stories." On the contrary, a set is on full display in the fantastical through bedtime stories). But I think fairy tale is an adult story that is retold creations of the Happy Never After series. Khoa’s prodigious imagination and ability to work with various media combine to create works that are each fairy tale worlds in and of themselves. In preparation for her upcoming exhibition, we ask Khoa about her work, her latest collection and her influences.
Can you tell me about where you derive the inspiration for your paintings? Were you a big fan of fairy tales when you were a child? Being an illustrator and an author of many children’s picture books, I am always a loyal audience of the fairy tale. I think
that they are an unlimited source of Gilded Shoes
32 that contain our darkest thoughts and the secrets and scars that we keep hidden. I don’t think this is entirely a bad thing. Nonetheless, we should from time to time look into these dark places. They are a part of what makes us human and they also have aspects that are beautiful and have their own value which should be respected.
In addition to a certain macabre quality, many of your works like Fairest feature an absurdist sense of humor to them. Can you talk about that? Many friends of mine have told me that I do have at times a somewhat sarcastic sense of humor. I think this is true to a certain extent and at times it can appear in my paintings. For example, in the piece The Fairest, I really do not want to reveal my thoughts and would prefer to let the viewers
Plastic feel and tell their own version of the story. Each of my paintings usually has in a different way to make them more previous pieces? Do you find them several levels of meaning and there is joyful and suitable for children. But as dark and where does that darkness room for all interpretations. Some of an artist, I want to bring to my fellow come from? I think there are some my friends have seen The Fairest and adults fairy tales of their own. There dark elements in my paintings. Perhaps commented that to them it represents is not only romance and flying fairies, partly because I myself am somewhat "the revenge of the trophy wife.” but also the woes, pain, loneliness and introverted and prefer to focus my Maybe that is a sign of the humor that struggles of the maturation process. attention on the inner qualities of viewers feel when they see my work? Hiding behind metaphorical images, it is people rather than the exterior flash a disillusioned world of adults. But at the around them. I believe that almost Happy Never After is on display same time, there is also a beautiful inner all of us, to a greater or lesser extent, at Craig Thomas Gallery (165 world which is rich and deep where have inner worlds in our subconscious Calmette, D1) until July 20. there is not only the "happy ever after," but also many other important things.
Could you describe for me step-by- step the process of making your work from inspiration to the final product? I create the materials that I use in my paintings by experimenting with different types of materials (types of colors, chemicals, etc.) to make different textures and patterns. I then scan what I have created onto the computer, and combine everything together in the drawing process on the computer. The paintings are then printed in monoprint and mounted on canvas. Finally, they are coated with a layer of resin. This ensures that the paintings are waterproof and that the vivid colors will endure.
Are there certain writers/tales that you find particularly interesting or who have influenced your work? A number of writers have served as a source of inspiration because I like reading books in my spare time. I am not, however, someone who can read and critique books professionally. Usually, I choose to read what I like and I decide whether I like a book or not within the first 20 pages. I particularly enjoy stories by Charles Perrault, the Brother’s Grimm, Antoine de Saint-Exupery, Jean Paul Sartre and Haruki Murakami.
Many people have commented on the
darkness in your work when seeing The Fairest
33 MONEY TALK FINANCE COLUMN
HOUSTON, Sven Roering is a Managing Partner at Tenzing Pacific Investment Management. He holds an Economics Degree from Rhodes University in South Africa, and is a candidate in the WE HAVE A PROBLEM Chartered Financial Analyst (CFA) program, having successfully completed level 1 and Comparing investment risks between here and abroad is currently working towards the level 2 exam.
Dear Sven, 2008 levels as measured by the S&P/ Case-Shiller housing price index. What advice do you have for a Vietnamese/US dual citizen who Looking more specifically at wants to buy a house in the US instead of saving money in Houston, the obvious driver of the property market is the oil industry, Vietnamese banks or investing in domestic assets in such unstable which makes up more than 50 percent conditions? And what about renting the house while staying in of the tenants in the metro area. Even though you say prices are still cheaper Vietnam? I'm looking to buy a house in Houston because it seems than some other cities, when looking to have the cheapest price range in the US. Also, my wife is a at the All Transactions House-Price in- dex measured by the Woodlands-Sugar Vietnamese citizen and would like to know if it would be possible Land, prices in Houston are currently for her to purchase a house in her own name abroad. at an all-time high. Relative prices paired with the bleak prospects within the city’s biggest employer, oil and gas, means there is not much room ALTHOUGH INTEREST to the US for the purpose of invest- for growth in property prices and your RATES on deposits in Vietnam ment and would only be able to do so investment. Try looking at other cities might be relatively high compared if you could prove the transfer was to like Chicago, which has a more diversi- to the US and Europe (which are finance either: emigration, education, fied tenant base and currently has low- almost zero), it is important to travel, supporting a family member or er relative prices compared to 2008. note that when all your savings are making payment for a good or service In terms of taxation, you would denominated in Vietnamese dong consumed in Vietnam, and concrete be liable for: state property taxes, you open yourself up to risks relating proof needs to be shown to your which in Texas are 1.93 percent of to currency depreciation. The most banker. Therefore, it would be easiest purchase value (one of the highest important risk in terms of the long- for your wife to have joint ownership rates in the country), federal income term value of your dong is that the of the property with you, which would taxes which you would pay on the government and the economy as a be paid for from your accounts. rental you receive from your tenant whole would very much like the value In terms of investing in US real es- based on your tax bracket and capital of the dong to decrease over time to tate specifically, there are various trends gains taxes equal to 20 percent that make Vietnam’s exports cheaper than you should consider before settling on you would pay on the profit you make neighboring competitors and thus this option. Demographics and property on the property once you sell it. It’s allow the economy as a whole to grow. purchasing trends have changed quite important to note that if you are living The fact that you would like to invest substantially in the US. Younger people in Vietnam and have the rent you in the US and have your savings/assets are saddled with more student debt and receive from your tenant remitted to valued in dollars means protecting wages have not increased much in the your bank accounts in Vietnam or your purchasing power over time. past 20 years, meaning more people are wherever they are held, that you will Buying property in the US seems living with their parents for longer and still be liable for the above taxes as the plausible because the country has the frequency of home purchases has US, Philippines and Eritrea are the universal property rights and one of decreased over time, which would be only countries that tax their citizens the world’s oldest democracies, mean- a dampener on your property invest- on income earned regardless of where ing you would be able to take legal ment in the future. In terms of timing, they live. Perhaps consider securitized action against any person or govern- the best opportunity would have been property investments such as Real ment entity that tries to lay claim on in mid-2008, just after the real estate Estate Investment Trusts (REITs) as your property without proper cause. crash in the US, you would have found these are far more liquid, give your Your US citizenship is key because many bargains then. Generally, real assets to a diversified pool of property solely as a Vietnamese citizen you estate prices have recovered substan- investments that are far more efficient would not be able to transfer money tially and are almost at pre-2007- from a tax reporting point-of-view.
34 LEGAL EASE LEGAL COLUMN
THE VIET KIEU TREATMENT Perks of having dual citizenship
Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate of Audier & Partners, an international law firm with offices in Vietnam (Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi), Myanmar Dear Marijn, and Mongolia. Audier & Partners provides advice to I recently started working in Ho Chi Minh City as an architect. foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues. I have heard the term “Viet Kieus” used a lot but I don’t really know what it means exactly. I’ve also heard that they enjoy many benefits, for example with investment. Is that true?
EVEN THOUGH the term how Vietnamese law defines this group residential house enjoy the same rights "Viet Kieu" is widely used in practice, of people. There is not a single, unified as Vietnamese individuals and compa- you won’t be able to find it anywhere definition, but the one under the Law nies who actually reside in the country. in Vietnamese laws. From a legal on Vietnamese Nationality is helpful For example, the housing quota and the perspective, a more accurate definition in this regard: “Vietnamese residing 50-year ownership limit that apply to would therefore be “Vietnamese overseas are Vietnamese citizens, and foreign owners of residential houses do residing overseas.” According to the persons of Vietnamese origin, who not apply to Viet Kieus who hold Viet- Vietnamese Ministry of Foreign permanently reside in foreign coun- namese nationality. Furthermore, the Affairs, there are roughly 4 million tries.” This means that the following Law on Real Estate Business states that Vietnamese people living overseas, and groups are covered: a) people holding Viet Kieus can invest in the construc- the biggest communities can be found Vietnamese nationality, b) people who tion of houses and buildings on land in the US, Cambodia and France. used to hold Vietnamese nationality leased from Vietnamese individuals, There are various reasons why at the time of their birth, and c) the family households and companies for Vietnamese people live overseas. It children and grandchildren of group a. the purpose of leasing it out. This is probably goes without saying that many Note that neither the Vietnamese something that foreigners and foreign moved to the US after the liberation of Law on Enterprises, nor the Vietnam- companies are not allowed to do. Saigon in 1975, but others had already ese Law on Investment contains any Another way in which the govern- moved to France during the colonial pe- provision that specifically favors Viet ment tries to encourage Viet Kieus to riod. In more recent times, immigrants Kieus. Instead, these two fundamental return to their home country and/or have moved to countries such as Aus- laws make a distinction on the basis of to invest in Vietnam’s economy is by tralia, Japan, South Korea and coun- nationality. Under the law, there are granting tax incentives. For example, tries in the European Union for family, “domestic” investors (any individual Vietnamese tax law states that income economic or educational purposes. with Vietnamese nationality, or any in the form of foreign currency remit- Around the world you can find Viet- company without a foreign investor ted by Viet Kieus shall be exempt from namese communities with names such being a member or shareholder), personal income tax. This incentive as “Little Saigon” and “Little Hanoi.” and there are “foreign” investors (any is apparently working quite well as The role of the Viet Kieu in society, individual with a foreign nationality, or the World Bank has estimated that and the attitude of the Vietnamese any company established in accordance the total amount of so-called “inward government towards them have evolved with foreign law). Domestic investors remittance” for Vietnam in 2015 was positively over time. Since 2013, the are exempt from the sometime burden- more than USD13 billion. In addition, Constitution of Vietnam explicitly men- some rules and procedures that would Viet Kieus without Vietnamese nation- tions that Viet Kieus form an integral apply to their foreign counterparts. ality receive favorable conditions when part of the Vietnamese community. This means that Viet Kieus who obtaining residence permits and visas. It also mentions that the State shall have lost or given up their Vietnam- Finally, subject to certain condi- encourage and provide favorable condi- ese nationality may want to consider tions, Viet Kieus who decide to re- tions for them to preserve the identity restoring their Vietnamese nationality settle in Vietnam do not need to pay of the Vietnamese national culture, to in order to benefit from a preferential import duties and value added tax keep close contacts with their families treatment under the Law on Invest- on their first imported car and mo- and their home country, and to con- ment. Also, Vietnamese nationals who torbike. As if there weren’t enough tribute to the construction of Vietnam. concurrently have another nation- motorbikes in Vietnam, already! Now what does this special sta- ality may choose whether to invest tus mean in practice? You rightfully as a domestic or foreign investor. Every month, Marijn Sprokkereef an- asked me whether Viet Kieus enjoy One sector in which Viet Kieus do swers legal questions from Oi readers. any preferential treatment in terms of enjoy special treatment is real estate. If you have any legal questions you doing business in Vietnam. In order to Under the Law on Residential Hous- want answered, send them to answer that question, we need to know ing, for example, Viet Kieus who own a [email protected].
35 THE
WHIRLWINDIN CONVERSATION WITH LEGENDARY SNOOKER PLAYERJIMMY WHITE TEXT BY MICHAEL ARNOLD IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN
THERE WAS A TIME when London, Jimmy has come a long way This is not Jimmy’s first foray into snooker demigod Jimmy White would from the days when, as a pasty, scraw- Vietnam— he stopped by a couple of have been out all night after an event ny young troublemaker with a gift for years ago with Ronnie “The Rocket” like the match he played in Ho Chi potting balls that couldn’t be rationally O’Sullivan to help a friend promoting Minh City last month, narrowly beat- explained, he became the working man’s vodka in Vietnam (that supremely un- ing local legend Luong Chi Dung in hero and people’s champion in one derfunded idea didn’t go down too well) what must have been the Saigon Pool of the world’s most civilized sports. and he was here 12 years back putting League’s most intense “battle of the “I was very lucky last night,” he on a simple exhibition to what seems to gladiators” in a good long while. Known chuckles in the cartoonish accent of a have been a crowd of stunned mullets. “I professionally as “The Whirlwind,” British pub fight. “10-9 on the 9, you don’t think there’s much snooker here,” Jimmy’s nickname is only partially a can’t get closer. I can’t pronounce his he observes, “It’s mainly pool. But it’s reference to his dazzling, fluid show- name, but he’s a good player. I’m not a very up and coming in Vietnam, com- manship on the baize, and equally as pool player; pool players and snooker pared to what I see in Asia. I’m coming much a reflection of the life of boozing, players hold the cue totally different. back next year, and in the meantime, big spending, and partying that once They swing their arm round, I don’t I’m going to do a bit of research to see typified the mad world of one of the know why, and we’re straight. That’s how if there’s any way we can do a snooker greatest snooker players of our time. it is with pool, even if they’ve start- exhibition. Maybe in a hotel or some- When Jimmy emerges from his hotel ed off as snooker players—most pool thing. In Kuala Lumpur, they’re big suite, he looks positively refreshed—he players have always played snooker to on snooker. Obviously all over China’s turned in at 11pm the night previous, begin with, but they always go back to huge, Thailand… just Vietnam, I’ve got and claims he didn’t touch a single drop the start. To completely turn to pool, to do a bit of research to see if there’s of alcohol for the whole evening. A beefy I’d have to change my style, but I’m any Asian Olympics for snooker here.” geezer from the rough patches of South not that good, I’m too old to change.”
36 paints the World Championship as his one unattainable goal that to this day he still believes he can win. He was first pipped at the post for the title by his snooker idol Alex Higgins—who became a lifelong friend until succumbing to illness in 2010. He credits losing that match as saving his life: “I was sort of gone from, quite famous in my little town and sort of getting away with a few things, to being world famous. So everywhere I went I could—how can I put it—have fun. I didn’t take advantage of anyone, the only person I did any damage to was myself. Where I come from, it was like, if you’ve got money, you should go out and celebrate. When I got famous, I could go everywhere in Lon- don. This is 1980, I’m only 18 then. At 22 if I’d won the world championship... I was on a really crazy rollercoaster at the time. I had a collection of fans that I don’t think he ever did. We loved him, he made the game. Every snooker player that’s playing now, Alex Higgins made.” Jimmy lost the title most frequently to a figure often painted as his arch-en- emy, Stephen Hendry, who won the Championship seven times. At the mention of his name, Jimmy still visibly shivers. “He’s coming back to play next year,” he says. “He’s been retired for years. Most bizarre, I’ve been practicing in a club called Frames in Coulsdon, and I’ve been getting there at half ten ular, last ten years or so I’ve been in and in the morning to practice, at the same THE DEVIL’S DANDRUFF out, doing exhibitions, not really prac- time he’s walking in there and playing. One of the purposes of last month’s ticing that hard on the snooker. So I just How bizarre is that, of all the snooker event, organized by Offshore Investment thought I’d get it out there, get it done.” clubs in the world, and he’s playing in Brokers, was to bring some attention In coming out as a cocaine addict, mine. We’re all right, I’ve known him to Jimmy’s biography Second Wind, Jimmy has clarified what’s been some- since he was a kid, I helped him out which not only traces the career of the thing of a curiosity to those who’ve been when he was a young thing. You know, equivalent of a pop star in the world following his career since the early 80s. he was a very focused young man, and of snooker, but also reveals his darkest Jimmy White has botched no less than that’s what… watching him for three secret—throughout his years of success, six opportunities to claim the title of years, just floating around and doing he was thoroughly addicted to cocaine, world champion, making him six times nothing… He retired too young.” something he’d managed to keep out of the second best player in the world. In In spite of those who tell him that, the tabloids until the book presented his book, he admits: ...ultimately, it at his age, taking the World Champi- a chance to warn others off the drug. was behaving like that which cost me 10 onship is mere fantasy, Jimmy remains “I call it the devil’s dandruff in the World Championships. No disrespect to determined. “I still think I can win it,” book,” he says. “I’d been using cocaine the other players around, but I genu- he says without batting an eyelid. “It’s for years, but I’d hid it very well. I’d been inely believe my name would be on the not like boxing or football. In two-and- clean for ten years, and it was just time trophy 10 times if I hadn’t found coke. a-half months I’ve lost 11.5kilos. That’s to tell that story really. If I could stop A 2012 documentary on Jimmy’s life a real good sign. Even in playing pool one person taking one line of cocaine, story—which admittedly oversimplifies last night, I really wanted to win. I’ve then I’m happy with that. There’s a few a complex and disorderly career that still got the drive, I’ve still got the game, other stories in there, I just wanted a even he himself claims is most aptly that’s the most important thing. If I clean slate. I started playing again reg- described in the word “whirlwind”— didn’t have the game, I wouldn’t play.”
37 An exploration of modern writing in Vietnam NGOC TRAN WrittenImage by By
38 Bestseller In Vietnam, like it or not, this is the age of the young writer CLAUDIA THAI Text by
YOU CAN ALWAYS pick up a Vietnamese cultural studies lecturer Dr. age of the young writer. Those who were lot about a country’s national psyche Dana Healey argues that the modern writing at the crossover point as Viet- from a glance at its literature. It’s one Vietnamese writing voice is intimate- nam started its national reforms still had of the roles that good writers inevita- ly tied to the advent of the reformist their roots in the very dramatic writing bly assume, to reflect and express the economics that culminated in the Doi styles of the revolutionary era—Nguyen zeitgeist of their culture—something not Moi renovations of 1986. In essence, Huy Thiep, Duong Thu Huong, Bao always appreciated until years into the publishing in Vietnam shifted from an Ninh, Pham Thi Hoai, Nguyen Duy and future when the works they leave behind ideology-driven function of the State others—and they simply haven’t been remain the most intimate snapshots to a marketing platform dedicated to able to keep up with the tastes of emerg- of their age. In the case of Vietnam, putting out whatever sells. “The most ing internet-generation readers. That’s however, there’s little need to wait out conspicuous manifestation of the not to say that the quality of writing in the decades to figure out the signs of dominance of the market,” she writes, Vietnamese has improved within the the times, because the massive influ- “is reflected in the boom of popular relatively relaxed modern cultural en- ence of global and commercial culture literature in Vietnam… for the first vironment—most commentators would on local writing—they call it glocal- time, the ‘value’ of a book bears direct tell you that Millennial literary quality ization—is patently obvious from the correlation to its market potential has a lower benchmark than in previous moment you walk into the bookstores. rather than its ideological impact.” ages, producing work typified by short In her 2013 thesis New Voices, In Vietnam, like it or not, this is the sentences, fragmentation, and quick
39 moving plotlines reflecting the brevity of modern communication methods (such as texting and social media posts). For many reasons, it has become the role of the younger generation of writers—those whose unorthodox creativity and experimentation have contributed to the transformation of Vietnamese literature—to provide ex- citing, modern and individualized prose as entertainment in a reading culture in which books are perceived, produced, and distributed as merchandise for consumption. To some, this has cheap- ened the art form; others celebrate the vibrant literary scene that has evolved in Vietnam over the past decade, altering the ways books are written and enjoyed. Nguyen Huu Tinh, Chairman of the Association of Vietnamese Writ- ers, has been very open in interviews about the pressure that contemporary writers experience from a public which demands “literature that is easy to read, but not necessarily of outstanding literary merit. Average is what sells, which makes it more difficult to reach the heights of creativity.” The new popular literature here is also attracting attention from established figures who find the increasingly ‘unruly’ writing appearing on the market difficult to accept. In Healey’s words, being creative, avant-garde and commercially successful while still complying with bureaucratic considerations is an arduous task, as “pop culture is definitely at odds with official ideas of Vietnamese culture.”
Flying off the Shelves The rapid transitions in Vietnam- lications released on modern channels the collection largely deals with the ese publishing have given rise, for the (ePublishing and downloadable audio unstable life of a father and two children first time, to the Western concept of the books, etc.) then this country’s first after their mother runs away with her bestseller. They first showed up in trans- domestic bestseller in print is usually lover. The book resonated with local lation—successful, internationally-pop- considered to be the collection of short readers immediately on publication, ular books were eyed by global-savvy stories Canh Dong Bat Tan by Mekong and Nguyen Ngoc Tu is still considered publishers as potential moneymakers writer Nguyen Ngoc Tu, which sold over a star on the Vietnamese literary scene, on the local market—but it wasn’t long 108,000 copies and achieved 24 edi- having won the Southeast Asian Writers’ before local writers began to attempt a tions. Set in a southern village with poor Award (SEA Write) for her outstanding homegrown version. If you ignore pub- farmers serving as the main characters, contribution to Vietnamese literature. Nguyen Ngoc Tu is among a number of modern writers who defy the sug- gestion that local literature has taken a sharp dive in quality. Since the year 2000, a number of genres previously ne- glected by Vietnamese writers began to proliferate—thrillers and horrors, crime fiction, young adult fiction, women’s fiction, romance, chick lit, biography, travel writing, action adventure and oth- ers. This has been particularly evident with the emergence of many fine female authors who represent a new feminist streak in local writing, particularly in urban genres typified by explicit female sexuality and the exposure of cultural traditions that symbolize and subordi- nate women. “Women’s literature has enjoyed significant growth in the last decade,” writes Healey, “and the literary
40 Most of his works are short stories about lives of teenagers. His bestselling story Cho Toi Xin Mot Ve Di Tuoi Tho (Ticket to Childhood) was his first work to be translated into English, released in 2014. He has often been called the story- teller of Vietnamese children. Through his work, readers tend to feel as if they are taking a journey back through their childhood, filled with innocent thoughts, actions, and dreams. This is due to Nhat Anh’s deep and implicit understanding of Vietnamese teenagers, something that has allowed him to resonate with readers throughout Vietnamese society. Di Li A rare female writer of Vietnamese Duong Thuy crime fiction, Di Li is considered one of the most inspiring, glamorous, and Cosmopolitan globetrotter Duong works of urban-based female writers can successful Vietnamese young writers. Thuy writes her bestsellers based on be perceived as particularly symptomatic Since 2007 she has published about 30 her own worldly experiences; her work of the deep changes happening in soci- works, including short stories, fiction, Oxford Thuong Yeu (Beloved Oxford) ety. Despite the fact that the female writ- biographies and journals. Her mystery is available in English and narrates a ers do not form a homogenous group, thriller novel, Trai Hoa Do (The Red romance between a young Vietnamese they nevertheless share many similari- Flower Farm) published in 2009 is an girl and a British man she meets while ties: they are young, educated, indepen- impressive four hundred pages long studying at the university. In her writing, dent urban residents who possess a good and became a huge success after she readers discover a clear, simple and fun command of a foreign language (usually hooked her readers by serializing and storytelling method. Her characters are English) which enables them to travel publishing 34 chapters online before mostly young people who are still on and engage with foreign cultures either announcing they’d have to buy the book their way towards finding themselves, through work or leisure. They are also to read the rest and solve the mystery. learning to explore their life and to find highly visible through their (self) rep- The book was also published regional- love. These characters, just like their resentation in the media and internet. ly and received rave reviews in South author, drift from country to country; Their writing is characterized by height- Korea and Japan. In addition to crime and on that journey they find every- ened feminist consciousness and reveals fiction, Di Li has also written education- thing they have and have not expected. how female subjectivity and agency al books for Vietnamese students. are being reconceptualized in a global- izing consumer-oriented Vietnam.” While much of new Vietnamese writing is by its very nature unavail- able to non-Vietnamese readers, it may still profit those with a passion for the field to gain some insights into the country’s new literary wave. The following are the names to watch out for in translation—and for those whose Vietnamese studies have pro- gressed to the point where enjoying a good book in the language is possible, then these are some of the first writers you should put on your reading list.
Nguyen Nhat Anh Great writers are always both in- trospective and highly observant of the society in which they live; they are the greatest commentators of any social era. Anh fits this description extremely well, and it’s thus fortunate that he’s one of modern Vietnam’s most prolific writers. Writing for both young and mature adults, Nhat Anh’s most famous work is the extended Kinh Van Hoa (Kaleido- scope), which consists of a staggering 54 volumes and has since been developed as a TV drama under the same name.
41 The Story of My Life Fascinating lives captured impeccably in print forever MICHAEL ARNOLD Text by
42 WHEN MY FATHER passed and media interviews. For celebrities, raphy writers, and publishing spec- away in 2010, he was about halfway biographies are immediate best-sellers ulators seeking to invest and work through writing a memoir. I found the in almost every case, for the simple with local celebrity figures are always fragments on his old, failing PC hard reason that the nature of fame itself welcome to contact us via our web- drive, which miraculously survived just is to have an admiring audience at site at www.metrowriters.com. long enough for me to copy the files the ready, eager to know more. The before it too blinked out of existence. marketing work for a celebrity book as Excerpt from Chef to the Stars – Ironically, the documents concerned merchandise is largely already done. the Rise of Jack Lee by NPD Khanh his attempts to deal with the death of Different approaches to book mar- his own father in the early 70s, and keting in Vietnam do have an impact In those days, Three’s Company told the story of a trip he’d made to the on the concept of what a biography was the only bright spot of his life, a Greek islands to claim a small plot of is for – few local persons-of-interest fantasy realm where he could escape land that Granddad had left behind. see a biography as a merchandising from the harshness of reality. He found I decided to do him one last favor, opportunity, and presume that life its simplicity appealing in a world sud- so I cleaned up the text and sent what stories are only ever written at the denly made complicated. Jack Tripper he’d written to a print-on-demand denouement of a successful career, was everything Meatball wanted to publishing service, intending to give a perhaps as a form of eulogy. A recent be. He was white and accepted, while few copies away to family members. It counterexample of this trend has been Meatball was yellow and existing on wasn’t until I had the physical book in the idol book written for the Vietnam- the fringe of American society. He was my hands that it really struck home— ese boyband 365, as discussed in Oi flamboyant and larger than life, while that memoir was all I really had left of Vietnam last month—even since that Meatball was a meek Asian boy who my father. He didn’t leave behind many review, the book has gone on to make couldn’t draw too much attention to photos; his personal possessions didn’t unprecedented sales and prove that the his family. He was honest and cheerful say much about who he was or how he biography-as-bestseller format is just and while he got into trouble frequent- lived. When I thought back on what I as viable in Vietnam as it is elsewhere. ly, he got out none the worse for wear knew about his life, I realized I wasn’t Next month, Metro Writers (Oi just as often. Meatball also liked the particularly clear about the details; I Vietnam’s sister company) will release fact that Jack worked a chef—under- had a handful of anecdotes that I might two of our first volumes for general paid and underappreciated, yes, but a be able to pass on to my own children, publication. The first is the biogra- chef nonetheless. The scenes of Jack and that was it. Without a book, Dad’s phy of local celebrity chef and regular Tripper cooking up a storm to impress life story would have eventually van- contributor to our magazine, Chef Jack his lady friends brought forth memories ished. Now, at least, I have something Lee – whose life story traces a series of Meatball’s mother and the pre-1975 to pass on down to future generations, of remarkable (and often comedic) charm of French restaurants. It was It’s this sentiment that I find quite twists in fortune that saw him become a happy and much less complicated compelling when it comes to biography a television personality both here and time than his life was at that moment. as a form of writing. If you consider the in the US. Jack’s story touches on When the going got too tough, billions of lives that were lived before themes of racial inequality and the sometimes Meatball would think: I ours—the lives of our people, of our disillusionment of Viet Kieu in Amer- wish I were Jack. Jack was big and tall ancestors, each of them unique, each ica, as well as opening a window into and white and happy and privileged of them the story of one human soul Hollywood through the stories of the and accepted, and most importantly, he set against the backdrop of a certain countless A-listers Jack cooked for in had a say on where his life was going time and a certain place—each of his career in celebrity catering. Chef to to. He said he wanted to be a chef, and those men and women once looked the Stars will be published in Vietnam- that was what he was. No one could tell out at the world just as we do now; ese shortly as Dau Bep Cua Nhung him otherwise. Little Meatball, on the they breathed as we do, thought as we Ngoi Sao; the English version will be other hand, was everything Jack was do, hoped as we do. They died, just available online in following weeks. not. Meatball didn’t look like he would as we will. The things they did with The second book produced by survive in America for a whole lot lon- their lives still influence us today, but our team is a translation of wartime ger, but Jack wouldn’t have a problem. in most cases we simply don’t know correspondence between two journal- Sometimes, when things became too who they were. Of all those hundreds ists who became important national much, Meatball wished he could crawl of millions of stories, the vast majority literary figures, Vu Tu Nam and Thanh inside Jack Tripper’s skin and be big were never written down, and so almost Huong. Written between 1950 and and strong and bold and happy in a all of them are now completely gone. 1968, Letters in Love and War is a world that loved the color he now wore. Creating a legacy, of course, isn’t quotidian account of life north of the He imagined it would be like wearing the only reason why people put their 17th parallel in the form of love letters magic armor—safe, warm, protected. life story on paper. A biography can be tracing the couple’s courtship and So one day, when their paper- a game-changer for someone trying marriage, which served to sustain a work for the green card arrived, and to boost their credibility in a certain love that was perpetually overshadowed his auntie called him over to ask field – political candidates have them by warfare. The book will be available what English name he wanted to written before an election campaign, in print in limited numbers, as well as be called by from then on, Meatball while entrepreneurs find them invalu- online both here and internationally. didn’t waste a second to reply. He able self-promotional tools to secure Those interested in having their already knew who he wanted to be. speaking engagements, fresh business, story set to the printed page, biog- “Jack. I’m going to be Jack.”
43 Excerpt from Letters in Love and War, Vu Tu Nam & Thanh Huong
“I’m sitting here alone, the night is quiet, the soldiers are all on their way to some activity somewhere, the clock is frozen. It is supposed that at this time, I have the right to have you by my side… our ‘sacrifice’, as you say, has no mean- ing to compare with the extreme suffering of our people caused by the enemy. For the whole afternoon, I spoke with the old woman, my hands are still full of words…” “Hanoi these days has been under terrible bombings, you may be worried about me a lot. Actually, it’s a bit tense; yesterday afternoon they were launching bombs for two hours. Hang Chuoi—in front of our agency—was hit by a rocket, four houses were destroyed. We all ran to the basement and stayed there for two hours. The whole basement vibrated. The em- bassy area was under rocket fire too (you may have worried a lot when reading the news of the embassy nearby our house).” “I already read your article on Van Nghe magazine. I was really moved, the images of the children looking for the bird's nest, the young men under the menace of the enemy’s planes, still processing rice while reading Hugo’s books... these 'peaceful im- ages during wartime' make people feel both Letters in moved and full of hatred for the Americans. Let me know your working agenda.” For 18 years, journalists Vu Tu Nam Love and War and Thanh Huong composed inspir- Love and Endurance Throughout the Vietnam Wars ing propaganda for their comrades in VU TU NAM & THANH HUONG the Vietnamese north—while in private, exchanging letters to sustain a love that was perpetually overshadowed by warfare. Their correspondence—never originally intended for public release—remains an untarnished record of life to the north of the 17th parallel, an untold story of the Vietnam 1 War that attests to the universal human experience of life and love in every age.
44 The Restoration Lab In the hands of a team of skilled surgeons, rare and antique books get a new life
NPD KHANH ADAM ROBERT YOUNG Text by Images by
IN THE HEART OF Ho Chi Minh southern Vietnam where dying books remains till this day - a senior staff City lies a secret hospital - a tiny well- - rare and antiques, maps, documents, member named Quy who now acts as kept and well-loved operating room the and aged torn papers that have seen the chief specialist restorer and main size of a shoebox apartment. There are firsthand the turmoil of Vietnamese surgeon of the entire operation. three surgeons, two operating beds, and history - can be brought back to life. PAR “It’s a quiet, patient thing, what we ten nurses and caretakers who oversee has three main functions: preservation, do. As you can see, not many people a total of 3,000 inpatients in addition restoration, and digitization. actually know about us,” says Kim Anh, to a fluctuating amount of close to one PAR officially started in 2000 the chief of PAR. “It’s an unglamorous million entries in and out every year. when the Library of General Sciences and unforgiving job that requires your However, to be admitted to this hospital invited two antiquarians from Cornell full attention to the most minute of you must meet two criteria: you have to University (US) to Vietnam to provide details over weeks or even months at a be rare and antique, and be made out of training to their staff. Prior to this, PAR time. A single page can take as much as paper. was simply a book binding room. Its a month to restore, a full-size book as The hospital goes by the name true origin, however, began much earlier much as half a year or longer. And we of The Department of Preservation than that, in as early as 1996 when the have a total of 3,000 rare antique books and Restoration, shortened to simply then-Director of the library, Nguyen Thi to care for, and beyond that, nearly Preserve and Restore (PAR) by its Bac, was sent on a one-person training one million public titles that also need residents. It is the youngest department trip to the US. It was from Bac’s trip that someone watching over them.” of the restricted access area of the knowledge of antique book restoration “The environment needs constant Ho Chi Minh City Library of General began trickling back to Vietnam. Out monitoring - PAR’s main and storage Sciences, and is the only place in all of of the original staff in 2000, only one rooms, the cellars, shelves, and the
45 offering its services to outside libraries, museums and private collectors. “I won’t say it’s tough asking for funding,” says Kim Anh. “We do have funding, of a sort, VND40 to VND50 million per year. Sometimes a couple hundred million if we need new equipment for digitization.” This amount is roughly the equivalent of a national football team member’s monthly salary. “What I will say, however, is that there’s still not enough attention paid to the importance and necessity of book restoration. Out of our three functions, the fund is actually almost exclusively for the digitization team since it’s the only one mentioned in the government charter on the preservation of our cultural heritage. Preservation and restoration have to get their funds from those earmarked for digitization. There is no charter and no campaign that calls for book preservation and restoration. So while people on the outside are clamoring for the creation of an online library of our digitized historical texts, the real articles are left forgotten and locked away to rot in our cellar.” Despite these challenges the staff at PAR aren’t daunted. “We have done processing rooms - the entire building sewing up tears, non-acidic paper glue, this for more than a decade. We are actually. No sunlight. We have blinders or a handheld bookbinder’s iron. There plenty patient,” they say. “And we are on all the windows and somebody is is no room for error, since the books we teaching other people, other libraries in always checking on the sun. Heat and are working on are considered national other provinces about book restoration humidity, neither of which are easy to treasures and part of the Vietnamese and preservation. We are making sure control, of course, but if we don’t do cultural heritage. They are hundreds of the knowledge we got from our foreign that, the texts will either rot away or dry years old. Some of them are on the verge teachers isn’t lost along with the old up and fall apart.” of falling to pieces and probably would generation.” She adds: “The tools we use are have if we hadn’t sealed them up. The “If I have to put it in words,” says that of real surgeons. Scalpels, chisels, government has strict rules regarding Kim Anh, “an antiquarian restorer is cutters, standing scopes, clamps and our handling of these books and texts both a doctor and an artist. A doctor forceps, even surgical room needles. We and one slipup is all it takes to see a because you really have to know what have them all. A surgeon can walk into veteran staff out the door.” you are doing and be really meticulous this room and he wouldn’t lack for a about it. An artist because only an artist small operation. The only few things we Self-preservation can work on a single piece, on a single have that aren’t taken from a surgeon’s From that first starting point in 2000, it cause for months or years and not grow tool list are things specific to our took a full five years for the department tired of it. Truly, it’s a job fit only for the specialty, such as paper thread used for to grow to a level where it could start most fanatic of book lovers.”
46 The Expatriate Experience An American author captures the highs and lows of foreigners’ lives in Vietnam
LORCAN LOVETT Text by
47 LOTUSLAND is defined as a place of resentment and infidelity, comparing says. “Politically, it can be a very difficult that induces idle pleasure and luxury; it to a business, “the sole aim of which thing to deal with, portraying someone it’s also the title of author David Joiner’s is to put forth good face to the world.” from another culture. You do have to debut book, which weaves together tales Vietnam is “hurtling forward myo- be cognizant of differences and think of the expat experience in Vietnam. But pically…there’s no grand plan,” he tells hard about how your portrayal of them rather than a blushing elegy on the joys Nathan, and that it’s “lost its identity is going to be taken by readers. Authors of a far-flung paradise, the novel is an in the stampede to make money.” play with stereotypes all the time. Some authentic account of expats struggling Anthony’s in-laws have moved people are successful at overcoming with love, money and trust in the reali- into his home without acknowledg- them, others simply don’t get there.” ties of Vietnamese culture. Native char- ing his presence and his children hate On the international stage, the men- acters are keen to leave their homeland, him, which is in no way helped by his tion of Vietnam still often provokes im- too, and so many allures of this lotusland lack of the Vietnamese language. ages of war despite its people and econ- swirl paradoxically into illusions. Joiner, who now lives in Japan, re- omy progressing far away from that era. Set in the early 2000s, the tale calls meeting foreign men who were kept The consequences of war are touched serves as an antidote to the conveyor on the periphery of their own families upon in Lotusland when Nathan visits belt of tired fiction about a war that because of their apathy for learning Viet- a hospital treating children with health ended more than 40 years ago. It’s a namese. “The fathers couldn’t communi- problems related to Agent Orange. formative time not only for Vietnam, cate with their children but the moth- “I’d always felt that the continu- which is on the brink of joining the ers could and the mothers were very ing effects of Agent Orange in Viet- World Trade Organization, but for its controlling of language in their family.” nam were underreported in Western protagonist, 28-year-old Nathan. A distraught Nathan accepts a media and I wanted to bring them Like Joiner, Nathan is an American lucrative role selling houses in Hanoi to readers’ attention,” says Joiner, writer who has embraced the South- with Anthony’s company. The decision who visited the hospital himself. east Asian nation—some of the lead’s sidelines his writing ambitions and life It’s particularly relevant to the real experiences are drawn directly from his in Saigon. “These days the only traces world, as Monsanto, the US biotech own—yet the 46-year-old Ohioan is keen most foreigners left were underused company that manufactured the to point out the similarities end there. belongings, humdrum gossip and old devastating poison, has been quiet- “Nathan is kind of a jerk,” he lovers,” Nathan considers, as he disap- ly welcomed back into Vietnam to laughs, “and I’m not…I’m not Na- pears from the south without a footprint. cultivate genetically modified ani- than but, you know, the charac- Amid the vivid descriptions of mal feed, even as it refuses to com- ters are filtered through me.” Vietnam’s beauty and traditions, we then pensate its Vietnamese victims. The books open with Nathan begin to see the self-serving motives Joiner came to the country in 1994 meeting Le, an enigmatic pink-haired of each character crash or come to and became the first American since the painter, for the first time. Nathan, a fruition. The personal flaws are clear end of the war to live and work in Dong struggling journalist, immediately in Le, Huong, Nathan and Antho- Nai Province. Working as a teacher in falls for Le as their train rumbles past ny, but that doesn’t stop one craving the countryside, he had an abundance paddy fields on the way to Hanoi. to discover their fates, especially for of free time and not many distractions. Initially she skips the formali- those who’ve seen Vietnam firsthand. After reading copious amounts and writ- ties and suggests a businesslike deal: Joiner is conscious of avoiding ing several 75-page letters, the thought Nathan would help her obtain a visa one-dimensional stereotypes when struck him that he might be a writer. for the US and, in return, the young creating foreign characters. A Viet- “If you’re even not writing about woman would be his ‘girlfriend,’ sig- namese person may be portrayed as Vietnam, it’s still a good place to be a naling that she could offer him sex. a spirited entrepreneur or an ava- writer. It’s an inexpensive place and it’s “Sex is one way for women in partic- ricious opportunist. Both, however, still very stimulating just generally. ular to get power where otherwise they would be a shallow description and “One has a sense of adventure just have none,” says Joiner. “It’s something so Joiner used detail, real people, going out for a meal and you can’t that I don’t think will last forever in events and experiences to submerge really get that in your own country; Vietnam as the country develops, the deeper into the characters’ psyches. just crossing the street is an adventure. economy develops and people aren’t “I’m a lot more careful when trying You get the chance to really get close forced to make those difficult decisions. to portray a Vietnamese person,” he to people who are living lives that you “The relationship between Viet- nam and the US too, it’s a power thing. Vietnam needs the US. I’m not saying they whore themselves to the US but there’s a power dynamic and there’s a power dynamic in relationships be- tween Westerners and Vietnamese.” Nathan and Le’s relationship blos- soms into a genuine romance, but falls short of preventing Le from gambling everything for the American dream. A distraught Nathan turns to his old friend and compatriot Anthony, one of the many jaded alcoholics tied up with a Vietnamese family to grace these shores. Several people gave Joiner the impe- tus to create the character of Anthony, who has struck gold with a real estate business, two kids and his wife Huong. Nevertheless, the man has been beaten down into a state of bitterness and stress. He admits his marriage reeks
48 admire or are curious about. There are night was cool and full of starlight. so many human stories that you can’t With his legs dangling over the edge “Yes.” find in the west; they’re just fascinating.” he watched a mosaic of moonlit fields Agents saw Lotusland —written emerge from a tangle of trees now re- “Why didn’t you take a plane?” intermittently over seven years—as a ceding on both sides of the track. hard sell, according to the author. A “I must have forgotten I can’t sleep novel set in contemporary Vietnam was Nathan turned around at the sound of on trains. Where are you going?” less attractive to publishers than the someone approaching the platform door. tried-and-true formula of war stories. He was surprised to find a young woman “Same as you.” That being said, the literary commu- with a train issued blanket draped over her nity in Vietnam and international read- head. It was an odd way to wander through Watching her yawn into her hand, ership for stories about the country are a train, and coming outside alone and as he asked if she lived there. both expanding. In April 2015, a month late as this piqued his interest. As she stood after Joiner’s debut was published, in the doorway considering the small space She shook her head, finishing her yawn. “I Viet Kieu author Viet Thanh Nguyen that Nathan occupied, or whatever was on live in Saigon. But I’m moving to America.” released The Sympathizer, which went her mind, he gestured for her to sit with him. on to win the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction. Her plan to move to America stirred his Joiner felt he had no access to a She tugged the blanket from her head and, curiosity. “Why are you going to America?” literary scene while in Vietnam, but that when she slipped into a shaft of moonlight, it’s “probably better now than it’s ever her hair appeared as pink as a rose. “To make a life for myself.” been.” He explains that the industry is She turned away as if his inter- paying more attention to Southeast Asia Her age was hard to guess, though she est made her uncomfortable. and audiences are interested in hearing was young, between 20 and 25. The from the large pool of talent in the Viet more he looked at her hair the more its It occurred to him that she had notably Kieu and Vietnamese populations. shape came to resemble that of a rose- large eyes—like an infant’s, he thought. “There’s more knowledge about bud: it enfolded her face so that the She was as disarming as anyone he’d Asian culture now than there’s ever ends nearly met beneath her chin. ever met and he found her alluring. been before. That’s beneficial for people writing about Vietnam, for example, She wore loose-fitting pajamas and tatami “Are you married?” she said, but I do still think there’s a disconnect sandals. She asked him for the time—Trời turning back to him. between potential readership and the oi, mệt quá . . . Bây giờ là mấy giờ rồi? industry itself which is so focused on Her pronunciation— z’s in place of y’s Nathan held up his ringless hands. what has been successful before.” and r’s; ch’s in place of tr’s—was lilt- He’ll test the waters again with ing and feminine, yet distinctly northern. From out of nowhere the train came upon an upcoming book set in the early There was something almost startling a crossing. Two streetlights stood op- 90s, a story about love and infidel- about the Vietnamese she automatically posite one another and bathed yellow a ity among river dolphin research- used, and it pleased him that she would. strip of stony dirt. An old man in a dark ers in the Lower Mekong Basin green uniform pulled a lever to lift the of Vietnam and Cambodia. He pulled out his cell phone and saw safety cross on each side of the railroad. it was just after two. Hai giờ rồi. Excerpt from Lotusland “You should go back to your room,” Hai giờ hả? the girl said. “If your girlfriend wakes Nathan tossed and turned on the hard up, she’ll worry you’re not there.” lower bunk of his sleeperclass room. He The northern accent was easier for him peered at his cell phone; it would take 30 because it distinguished more between Her clumsy attempt to learn if he more hours to reach Hanoi. He was struck sounds. Yet there was something cold and was alone amused him. “Maybe by how things were always a long wait hard about the northern way of speaking, a her snoring keeps me awake.” for him. Nothing was simple, and what- wintry almost martial quality. But may- ever seemed certain had a way of being be it was only Hanoi’s chill weather and She lifted her thin eyebrows and turned on its head without warning. thick cloud cover that bled the color from glanced down the corridor. “It’s the streets, buildings, even the clothing of late. I’d better go back myself.” The sound of the train was low and whoosh- the people, and made him feel this. For ing, like the winds of a relentless rainstorm. there was something warm and inviting “What about your phone call?” When she Whenever the train pulled into a station the about this pink-haired young woman. didn’t answer he said: “In that case, why lull of stillness became just as loud, howling not keep me company a little longer?” inside him, heightening his restlessness. “What are you doing out here?” he asked. “It’s late,” she said again. She Lying there, discomposed by his com- “I came outside to get a phone call.” She bid him goodnight and disap- panions’ snores, a premonition of rubbed her eyes. Under the dark sky he peared through the doorway. endless night took hold of him. Un- couldn’t tell if she was merely tired or had able to stand it, he left the room. been crying. “Why are you out here?” The blue night suddenly telescoped, reduced to a receding square: a window In the passageway a young man sat on a He didn’t feel like explaining his in- onto a dream fading rapidly into nowhere. stool with his face buried in a copy of the somnia. “I can’t sleep on trains.” He grew colder in the chill night. For a Army Newspaper. There was nowhere else moment he felt like he was traveling away to sit, though Nathan did see, at the end of They were silent a moment watch- from life itself. But in the next moment the last train car he was in, that the door ing their knees sway back and forth. the feeling passed. He saw that the train was open and led to a small platform. He pushed himself backwards un- had only entered a tunnel. A high metallic til he leaned against the wall. wailing began to echo off the tunnel walls; He stepped outside and sat down. The a moment later utter darkness curtained “Going to Hanoi?” she asked. everything he’d just passed through.
49 Wine & Dine NOSSA STEAKHOUSE
50 IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN
51 AINSPIRED BYSONG A SONG, SIMON NGUYEN WANTS GUESTSFOR TO FALL IN LOVE WITH A HIS STEAKS STEAK AND EACH OTHER WHILE YOU’RE AT IT TEXT BYMICHAEL ARNOLD IMAGES BYNGOC TRAN
“IT’S A LOVE SONG,” says certainly provided the ideal backdrop Simon, it seems, is in no rush: “I just Simon Nguyen of the ballad that for a goodly number of perfect dates. don’t want to go too fast, it’s not good,” provided the inspiration for his intimate It’s tiny, yet private enough for several he says simply. “Slowly but well-paced little bistro on 36 Pham Hong Thai, couples to focus exclusively on each in Vietnam is OK. In the long term, D1—Nossa Steakhouse. “Nossa, other; a quiet terrace offers a park we need money to survive, sure, but nossa… ai se eu te pego… I worked at view over the New World hotel while passion and a sense of patience is more the Sheraton before, when they still had still feeling well-removed from Saigon. important. This first restaurant is like the band; they used to sing this song Inside, the incandescent bulbs cast a my baby. Open one, and you can have a almost every day. After the boy meets warm light over the tables-for-two; an lot of time to take care of it and pamper the girl, she changes his life, it’s perfect. exposed colonial-era wall is whitewashed it; open many, and you won’t have It’s why I opened a restaurant called like a Mediterranean villa while the enough time for them all, it’s a problem.” Nossa, to make sure every customer falls natural colors of the timber ceiling We arrive on a rainy afternoon as in love with Nossa and comes back.” panels recall the bare wooden structures the venue comes into its own under In retrospect, putting together a of Simon’s home town in the Mekong. darkened skies, the half-light from the steak restaurant with romance in mind With such a well-defined dining windows brushing calligraphic shadows turns out to have been a pretty good concept, I’m curious as to why the through rain-streaked glass; perhaps strategy. It’s already survived two years restaurant has remained so intimate inspired by the mood, we settle in and in the competitive local market, and if after two years in business, when a larger order fresh cocktails while choosing the cozy interior and sharply-focused or follow-on venue in another location our steaks. There are other options on Italian menu are anything to go by, it has would seem to be the obvious next step. the menu (including a modest set of
52 Vietnamese items for a local date), but ingredients laid out in spectrum stripes; 120g hunk of grilled Australian prime Nossa’s raison d'être is its selection of it delivers a range of tastes, but what grass-fed black Angus beefsteak in American and Australian beef steaks. really makes it work is the sweet corn creamy mushroom sauce with half a The one you choose comes down to against the savory chicken chunks. We Canadian lobster that is sweet, fragrant personal preference, of course, but as a also try a good, earthy Caesar salad and lightly peppered, textured and rough guide, you’ll find the American with salmon, nicely salty with the fresh. The mains are filling but not beef more textured than the softer bacon pieces and shaved parmesan—it’s burdensome enough to ignore the Australian Angus. Be very specific if pleasing to have real croutons too, as desserts (VND99,000); we try an orange you want them bloodier, as the kitchen opposed to chopped-up bits of toast. chocolate mousse (a wonderful jaffa cake tends toward the well-done side by The grilled US prime beef grain- with a zesty marmalade peel garnish) default. The cocktails (VND120,000) fed tenderloin (200/300/350g and a richly coffee-drenched tiramisu. are strong and heavy on the fruit—my for VND599,000/VND639,000/ If you’re not having the cocktails, Nossa Sunrise is a murky maroon VND788,000) is the real deal; it is do flirt with Nossa’s short but well- with its syrupy apricot and grenadine rough and delicious, coming with planned wine list—heavy on the reds, base, giving it the aftertaste of a juicy side vegetables and a wine sauce as you’d expect, with a good selection heady mulled wine, while the brilliant that manages a distinctive bouquet of of Wolf Blass Eaglehawks by the glass yellow Nossa Passion is brighter in marmite (if you know what that is). (VND130,000). Take a bottle of Hunter’s tone with a refreshingly gentle kick. The meat is very good; it’s also easy to Marlborough Riesling (VND990,000) After a complimentary home- manage with the fine imported Dutch if you’re among the minority having baked bread with chickpea dip, we cutlery, entirely deserving of its own seafood: don’t feel embarrassed, it’s as take our starter salads (VND149,000). mention. My partner enjoys a surf & good as the steak, but do be careful not The Nossa Rainbow comes with its turf (VND599,000), that allows her a to let it dampen the amorous vibe.
53 Elevated Twist Qui Lounge puts Western accent on Asian cuisines JOEL ZORILLA NGOC TRAN Text by Images by
QUI LOUNGE (22 - 22bis Le business people, expats and locals alike only has it, they have the best version— Thanh Ton, D1) is not a bar, nor is it pervades the establishment with energy, the bellota. For those of you who don't a lounge or restaurant—it's a perfect lively chatter and occasional flirting. know, bellota in Spain means acorn balance of all three in one space. The As we relaxed into our seats and and the black Spanish pig spends its industrial copper-plated lighting perused their fusion menu, we were entire life basking in green pastures fixtures above the bar set the scene, the looking forward to sampling creative eating acorns. A pig that eats acorns elegantly lit shelf of top brand whiskeys combinations of Japanese, Vietnamese produces the best possible leg of ham in the back beckoned us while the and Western cuisines. To start we which, after the long curing process, is DJ spinning house music created the ordered the Jamón ibérico Bellota the perfect mix of salty sweet nuttiness. mood, and the divine food completed (60gram for VND550,000 and 100gram The dark red meat coupled with the our evening. One comes to Qui to for VND850,000). Jamón ibérico is one golden strips of fat is nothing short of see and be seen; a clientele of young of the finest cured meats and Qui not heaven, the perfect complement to the
54 amazing ambience. But I can't stop here, The second entrée was an elevated that can easily star in Mad Men or The the fantastic combination of gourmet twist on a simple local dish—the spring Great Gatsby with its understated class platters that came to our table were all roll. The King prawn with grilled and refined taste. I, on the other hand, fusion concepts that hit its mark, fusion pork roll (VND110,000), served with indulged in the more tropical Sea Freeze food being a dangerous rope to walk on. Vietnamese herbs and a pineapple fish (VND240,000) served in a seashell. As Another standout appetizer was the sauce for dipping, was a sensational I sipped I imagined the sand around Wagyu beef gyoza (dumplings) with ride through textures and tastes. The my toes and the waves crashing against foie gras, truffle and kabayaku sauce pineapple fish sauce added the perfect the rocks. Both drinks were strong (VND180,000). Matching Japan’s amount of sweet, coupled with the enough to send us into a light buzz. The world-renown wagyu beef with coveted crunch of the Vietnamese herbs, the guys behind the bar were clearly just ingredients—truffle and foie gras—and tender meat, possibly the best fresh as talented as those in the kitchen. it's a tour de force to be reckoned with. spring rolls we’d ever had. Speaking Our decadent evening finished with The intense flavors from two distinctly of fresh, I must mention the simple, a decadent Black sesame crème brûlée different cuisines were absolutely yet fantastic, fresh medley of their with pink grapefruit (VND120,000), mind blowing. To further enhance signature salad (VND160,000), a and it was as strange looking as it our dining experience we ordered a combination of at least three different was delicious. The torched upper glass of Montgras Estate Caubernet greens, asparagus, avocado and yuza layer was just the right amount of Savignon from Chile (VND150,000 dressing from Japan. The dishes so far crunch while underneath was creamy per glass and VND690,000 a bottle). were a testament to Qui’s dedication to indulgence, then combined with flecks A further complement to the wine bringing in only the finest ingredients of buoi made it a sweet winner. was Qui’s flank steak of the day, which from around the world as well as locally. Qui’s drink list is extraordinarily was Australian Black Angus beef Rumor had it that Qui had a certain diverse, the creativity behind the (VND320,000), tender doesn't come flair for producing some of Saigon’s globally-inspired fusion menu is close to defining this melt-in-your- most exotic cocktails, so naturally we matched by its selection of spirits, mouth masterpiece. It was juicy, cooked had to indulge. My companion had the wine, cocktails and both Scottish medium rare and plated beautifully. Sakura sour (VND200,000), a drink and Japanese whiskeys.
55 RESTAURANT REVIEW ALLEY DELIGHT COZY AND CHARMING, THIS HIDDEN GEM IS THE GO-TO SPOT FOR DELICIOUS FOOD AND DECADENT DESSERTS TEXT BY NATE NIVENS IMAGES BYNGOC TRAN AND KESERA
56 A COZY CAFÉ tucked away in the duck skin and juiciness of the meat wanted to order the classic salmon and an alley off Le Thanh Ton, Café Bar formed moreish bites one after another. cream cheese bagel instead, and taking KESERA (26/3 Le Thanh Ton, D1) This was a great start to our lunch. To advice from my lunch companion, I has a bit of everything for everyone. follow were scallops served on intricately ordered the more interesting item on And if you love bagels then Kesera is latticed asparagus. Precision timing is the menu: the Shrimp and basil bagel the place for you, offering some of the crucial when preparing scallops—too sandwich (VND80,000) served in a most authentic bagels in Saigon. Try long on the pan and they become rub- bed of grated carrots and a mayon- their plain bagel with salmon, cream bery while not enough time will leave naise-based relish. The bagel was boiled cheese, avocados and shrimp then them uncooked and slimy. The two and baked as it should be and would wash it down with a cup of piping hot scallops perched on top were seared off make a New Yorker proud, and obvious- coffee and it’s like you’ve traveled to and cooked to perfection and left us in ly baked that morning. The amalgama- New York City, the bagel capital of the the mood for more Asian flavors, so we tion of creamy relish, crunchy carrots world. The menu is diverse but with a ordered a glass of wine and a Strawberry and roasted shrimp inside the glorious focus on Western and Japanese fusion, beer cocktail from their wide selection baked halo of dough was phenomenal. along with salads, burgers and several of beers and fine wines. It was crisp and We ordered the Blueberry Thai, Indian and Korean dishes, and not overly strong for an afternoon meal. cheesecake and the Rare cheesecake a wide selection of homemade cakes Soon the main dishes made their (VND55,000 per slice each) accompa- including my favorite—cheesecakes. way to our table. The Roasted pork nied, of course, by a cup of coffee. The Kesera has two floors, the ground belly (VND125,000) with a ginger blueberry was exactly as I was expecting, houses the bar with table seating, and sesame based sauce and a vegetable a New York style baked cheesecake with live music every Saturday night, while relish was a good marriage of flavors lightly whipped cream cheese and a per- the upper level has two relaxing din- and textures—juicy and tender mor- fectly crunchy biscuit base. However, the ing spaces with comfy sofa chairs. We sels of deliciousness. It was a creative winner of the two was the Rare cheese- started our lunch with the Teriyaki duck take on a common Vietnamese dish cake, which was served drizzled with a (VND120,000) and Japanese scallops seen in most com tam eateries. passionfruit sauce. The cheesecake itself (VND190,000) as appetizers. The duck As an avid bagel lover, who hasn’t was light and creamy, but accompanied was expertly cooked and tender, pre- had a good bagel in a good few years, with the tartness of the passionfruit and sented on a bed of arugula drizzled with I couldn’t leave Kesera without trying you end up with a bold and decadent a sweet teriyaki reduction sauce. The their famous “best bagels in Saigon.” dessert serving as a glorious finale to freshness of the arugula, crispiness of Fighting the traditionalist in me who our journey through Kesera’s menu.
57 RESTAURANT REVIEW
ALL FIRED UP Saigon is in the midst of a barbecue revolution and newly-opened Smoke House is gearing up for a fight BRIAN JUNG NGOC TRAN Text by Images by
HO CHI MINH CITY’S BBQ some smoky ideas from his time there. steam revealed juicy, tender chick- CRAZE is growing stronger every Smoke House stands out with its en meat. The BBQ sauce was lighter year. It seems everywhere you turn huge signboard and aluminum pound- and slightly sweet, which was nicely there are new BBQ places springing up ed walls, with plenty of casual seating complemented with a swig of ale. and Thien Do is hoping to capitalize over two floors. While the interior lacks When it came to the main course on that. Having recently returned from a unique ‘Chicago’ or ‘American BBQ’ there was no doubt. I had the Big Fat several years in Chicago, he decided to design, it is an open air space – so for Ass BBQ (VND545,000): ribs, rib eye, launch Smoke House—All American those who were expecting to munch Peri Peri chicken, smoked lean shoulder BBQ & Grill (34 Nguyen Huu Canh, on hot ribs in cold air-con, I advise you meat and two sides (mashed potatoes Binh Thanh). While Chicago is more to dress light. On some nights when and cole slaw) came heaped on top of likely to bring to mind images of cold the skies are clear the roof is auto- a wooden chopping board. The ribs, by winters and gooey slices of deep dish matic and can automatically retract. which all BBQ places will be judged on, pizza than ribs and brisket, that’s not To start, I ordered Garlic bread oh my! They parted easily and slid off to say Chicago doesn’t have good BBQ. (VND35,000), and Honey BBQ wings the bone to sit in a heap of tender and In fact, most Chi-Town foodies will (VND85,000). The former came out tangy fatty meat. The BBQ sauce wasn’t tell you there is definitely good BBQ topped with tons of garlic and melted their final version and it was apparent to be found, and if you happen to be butter—absolutely delicious on top some work was needed because it was in the area stop by Honey 1, Smalls or of crunchy crispy bread. The wings a little watery and didn’t have a tangy Green Street Smoked Meats. It’s not so were equally good with crackly skin sweet punch that a lot of good BBQ strange then that Thien brought back peeling away easily while a rush of hot sauces have. Actually most BBQ restau-
58 rants guard their BBQ sauce recipes now that’s dedication to the craft. with killer robots and moody Doberman The platter came with wasabi Pinchers so it will be good to see Smoke mashed potatoes, in addition to my House develop theirs in the future. side order of mash, a bit too much The rib eye was ordered medium starch even for me. No melted butter or rare and it was so done to perfection. It gravy with the mashed potatoes which had just the right amount of pink, there made them a bit dry – so my advice is were no dark red patches to suggest un- to order it with gravy. I’m used to more even cooking. I did notice the rib eye was mayo in my cole slaw but it’s just as tenderized and pounded thin. There are well this slaw didn’t have as much—my various schools of thought about this but waistline thanks you Smoke House. for me it was juicy, peppery and had just To finish off this feast, I had to the right degree of delicious chewiness. try a couple of desserts. There’s only Next came the Peri peri chicken, which three on the menu so hopefully they’ll was made famous by Nando’s in South be bringing in more classics—real Africa, unfortunately, it did not taste of cheesecake or a slice of pecan pie would the iconic peri peri sauce. The chicken, be welcomed. I ordered the Lemon slightly dry, needed to be dipped in tart (VND75,000) and the Chocolate sauce to juice it up. The smoked lean “pudding” (VND75,000) which turned shoulder meat was neither smoked nor out to be Chocolate lava cake. Since lean as I saw plenty of delicious soft fat, most BBQ places aren’t known for but it was definitely tender and juicy having great desserts I was pleasantly nevertheless. The smoker currently isn’t surprised by how delicious these were. doing the job but Thien assured me Lemon tarts are not common in Asia they are committed and are currently so I was very happy to dig into this building their own custom smoker— one. Not overly tart and with a light, sweet whipped crème fraîche that was a perfect match to the tanginess, all on a delicious crumbly crust. This was amazingly good—a must order item! The Chocolate “pudding” lava cake exploded with a touch from the spoon and quickly created a molten choco- late pool on my plate and was cooled off by a dollop of vanilla ice cream. Perfectly baked and excellent as well. Since the Smoke House had only been opened a month when I visited, there are certain things they are work- ing hard on improving and definitely once they get their smoker up and running (which I’m told is very soon) that will help immensely. The passion of the owner, the attentiveness of the staff and a great location will also help with their success. I’ll be back for that lemon tart, you can count on that.
59 TABLEFORTWO MEET THE CHEF BEHIND THE MENU AT THE GRAND HO TRAM STRIP INTERVIEW BY CHRISTINE VAN IMAGES PROVIDED BY THE GRAND HO TRAM
JEAN-FRANCOIS of all food and beverage outlets. He'll METEIGNER was born and meld Vietnamese ingredients with How are you incorporating raised in France and earned his the cuisine naturelle he's spearheaded Vietnamese ingredients or first apprenticeship at the upscale since his days as a mere lad of 15. Vietnamese cooking styles to your restaurant Troisgros when he was just menu? Of course a lot of Dalat 15. After three years there, he went With your promotion as Executive vegetables and fruits, and all our to Bordeaux where he worked at Le Chef what changes have you made? seafood come from Vung Tau. Chapon Fin—took a brief hiatus to How will you make The Grand not We use local ingredients when we serve in the army for one year—then only a beach resort destination but can, such as beef, chicken, ducks, returned to Le Chapon Fin before also a dining destination? We are pigs, vanilla, chocolate, coffee and moving on to Paris. In Paris, he working on getting all our outlets to rice. We try to use Vietnamese further his culinary experience at a new level of upscale presentation, more than imported products. L’ Archestrade—a 3-Michelin star especially at The Grand Bistro and restaurant run by Chef Alain Senderens. Cantonese restaurant Jù Băo Xuān. We’ve For first time diners to The Grand The traveling chef left France for implemented our new concept at KHÓI Bistro, what is the one dish they must Los Angeles in 1980 and soon found Barbecue with live seafood on Friday order that represents you? I don’t work at L’ Orangerie, where he became and Saturday, which is doing fantastic. want to be stuck with just one style of Executive Chef at the young age of 26. The plan in the future for us is to food, so I recommend ordering many: During the next couple of decades, Jean- find a space to do a Michelin-level French duck with orange ginger sauce Francois would open critically-acclaimed restaurant with an Asia Western Seared foie gras French restaurants La Cachette and fusion menu in an upscale décor. Homemade smoked salmon La Cachette Bistro in Los Angeles—60 Australian lamb chops with thyme, percent of the menu was French, all You were chef-owner of La Cachette, mint and apricot couscous prepared using French techniques, but which garnered praise for reinventing Tournedos Rossini with truffle with an international approach to food. bistro classics; can diners expect sauce and foie gras This international man of food the same at The Grand Bistro? We Baked oysters has upped and left the West Coast for do a lot and we use sous vide cooking Seafood and avocados tower Vietnam. One of the founding team techniques mostly with imported meat of The Grand Ho Tram Strip, Jean- from Australia, France and the US. We You already have a cookbook out Francois originally joined the resort as recently debut high-end food and wine called Cuisine Natural. Can we look Executive Sous Chef and was promoted tasting dinners every two to three month forward to another one inspired by to Executive Chef in 2015, a role which with Jean Bernard as sommelier. We Vietnam and its food? That would be a sees him assume responsibility for use lots of imported product and started fun project with my team at The Grand the development and management our fusion recipes for those events. Bistro, will love to work on one yes.
60 CHEERS! WINE COLUMN
Alfredo de la Casa has been organizing wine tastings for over 20 years and has published three wine books, including the Gourmand award winner for best wine education book. You can reach him at www.wineinvietnam.com.
Life in Pink Rosé wines have gone from peripheral fancy to an essential element of a wine lover's repertoire
PERHAPS THE THING that red, the juice is white. Yes, you read and Navarra in the North of Spain most surprised me regarding wine when correctly: juice from red grapes, that are probably the two most famous I arrived to Vietnam was that hardly is used to make red wine, is white. areas specializing in rosé wines. anyone was enjoying a glass of rosé. Like red wines, rosé wines get their However, new styles and real jewels With the hot tropical weather and nice color from the juice being in contact are produced in other areas like terraces all around, I was expecting with grape skins. The difference Castano rosé, which is about to people to be drinking rosé by the bottle if with red is that in the case of rosé arrive to Vietnam, a fresh delicious not by the magnum. With the exception such contact is limited in time so wine made from Monastrell grapes of a few customers in the old Vino the wine becomes pale red, or rosé (Mouvedre) in the Mediterranean, an shops, rosé was nowhere to be seen. color, rather than the full red, but this easy to drink delicious wines offering I enquired, and it seemed that a does not affect the quality at all. an amazing value for money. lot of the local population rejected Regardless of the method used to So if you have not done so yet, rosé thinking that it was poor quality produce rosé, high quality grapes are start exploring rosé wines. Make wine, a blend of low quality white used resulting in high quality wines; sure they are cold and enjoy them and low quality red, and a type of they may look pale pink (if they spend the same way you enjoy life, without wine that only women would enjoy. little time in contact with grape skins) or having to worry too much about it. They could not be more mistaken. dark pink (if contact is longer), but the Rosé is pink wine made from product is usually a fresh, interesting, Both RubyRed (206 Nguyen Van red grapes. In case you did not often complex, wine which is great as Huong, D2) and Wine Embassy know, when you press the grapes to an aperitif or paired with light dishes. (41 Quoc Huong, D2) have a good make juice, even if the grapes are Provence in the South of France selection of rosé wines on offer.
61 THE LIST Wine&Dine BARS
Air 360 Sky Lounge - Events Chill Skybar - Dining La Vie En Rose This rooftop bar combines vibrant music, fancy designs A modern lounge, bar and dining space that is Combining sophisticated decor with live music and and 360 degree view of Saigon's skyline to make it one considered the first “Skybar” concept in Vietnam. It is a extensive vintage wine, La Vie En Rose is the go-to of the best spots for drinks, lounging and events. perched on top of AB Tower, exclusively on the 26th place to while away your worries. 0974 58 77 88 and 27th floor with views of the city's skyline. 0936 933 833 22-23 floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 0938 822 838 21st floor, Ben Thanh Tower, 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 136-138 Le Thi Hong Gam, D1 Level 26, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 www.lavieenrose.com www.air360skybar.com www.chillsaigon.com
O’Brien’s The Deck Bar The Fan Club Two-storey Irish-themed bar and restaurant that offers The Deck Group is proud to The largest sports bar in Saigon, with all the live sports a relaxed, comfortable atmosphere. Known for its announce the opening of The Deck available on 12 large HD screens, an exciting place excellent food menu, this is a fun place to socialize Bar, right next to its famous to watch your team win! A great selection of food & while shooting pool or playing darts. They occasionally pan-Asian sister restaurant The Deck Saigon in beverage. We also have a enclosed relaxing garden for have live music. Thao Dien, District 2. the family. 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 38 Nguyen U Di, Thao Dien, An Phu, D2 The Vista, 628C Hanoi Highway, An Phu, D2 [email protected] www.dtdentertainment.com 3744 6632 Facebook: The Fan Club
Game On Saigon Saigon Bar Also Try... Game On is one of Saigon’s biggest sports This iconic bar is a great place to watch bar, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner. the sun go down over the lights of The bar also has an extensive drinks menu the city and relax with friends. Live including coffees, juices, beers, wines, entertainment nightly, including their vodkas, and more. Game On also boasts resident Cuban band, Q’vans from 9pm a function room for corporate meetings or Wednesday to Monday. private parties. Rooftop, 9th floor, 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 19-23 Lam Son Square, D1 3823 4999 www.caravellehotel.com Broma Saigon Bar onTop Bar 11am till late Famously known for ‘not being a bar’ Broma Located on the 20th floor of Novotel Saigon is one of Ho Chi Minh City’s most popular Center, onTop Bar provides views over hangouts with prices ranging from VND30,000 Saigon from an expansive outdoor terrace. Xu Bar - VND500,000. Broma is a more upscale option The venue offers a menu with over 20 A cocktail hot spot with Coconut for those wishing to escape the cheap drinks in cheeses, cured meats and both Vietnamese Martinis, Cranelo Sparkles and Passion The Pham. and international-inspired tapas. Fruit Caprioska on offer along with 41 Nguyen Hue, D1 167 Hai Ba Trung, D3 a variety of tapas with DJs and drink 3822 4866 specials throughout the week. 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Donkey Bar www.xusaigon.com An open air, but well cooled bar in the heart of Purple Jade Bui Vien on the site of the once popular Stellar Lively and cosmopolitan, Purple Jade is a cafe. A cut above the regular backpacker haunts must on any nightlife agenda. The lounge in style and offer. Downstairs is a modern bar offers an innovative menu of tasty snacks with flat screen TVs showing sports, a huge and signature cocktails in a sleek and chic circular bar and tables, and outdoor seating for aesthetic to complement the chilled-out people watching. Upstairs are air conditioned vibe. rooms, pool table and outdoor deck. 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon 119 Bui Vien, D1 [email protected] 6pm until late 62 CAFÉS
Bach Dang Én Tea House & Restaurant MOF Japanese Dessert Cafe An institute that’s been around for over 30 years, Kem Én replicates the feeling of the old Saigon Tet Yokoso New Menu Bach Dang is a short walking distance from The Opera by modern Saigonese, complimented by (12/28 - 3/13). Ring in the Japanese House and is a favorite dessert and cafe spot among authentic Vietnamese cuisine and deluxe teas, & Lunar New Year with vibrant locals and tourists. They have two locations directly for anyone who wants to look for Saigon’s sense of & wonderful flavors at MOF. Using traditional and across from each other serving juices, smoothies, nostalgia and friendliness. all-natural New Year ingredients like rice, yuzu, and shakes, beer and ice cream, with air conditioning on the 308 - 308C Dien Bien Phu, Ward 4, D3 matcha. MOF is proud to present Tet Yokoso. Rush into upper levels. 3832 9797 MOF to try these auspicious & authentic desserts to 26-28 Le Loi, D1 Facebook: Enteahouse help you start 2016 with a lucky charm! Somerset Chancellor Court, GF, Nguyen Thi Minh Khai & Mac Dinh Chi Corner, District 1 , HCMC (08)38239812 www.mof.com.vn
The Library The Workshop The Library recaptures the romance of a bygone era The cafe is located on the top floor and resembles while offering an all-day snack menu as well as the an inner city warehouse. The best seats are by the finest tea, coffee, wine and spirits in an elegant setting. windows where you can watch the traffic zoom by. If Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, you prefer your coffee brewed a particular way, there Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 there are a number of brewing techniques to ask for, 3520 9099 from Siphon to Aeropress and Chemex. Sorry, no [email protected] Vietnamese ca phe sua da served here. 27 Ngo Duc Ke, D1
Also Try... Caffe Bene Du Mien Garden Coffee Masstige A brand new cafe in the heart of District 1, marking A 30 minute taxi ride from downtown, but worth the Another newcomer to the Vietnam cafe scene, Korean- the debut of a Korean coffee and dessert concept in effort, this unique cafe is renowned for its ‘treehouse’ based chain Masstige offers European style coffee at Vietnam. When it opened queues stretched out the feel. Set in lush gardens, it’s a world away from the competitive prices (40,000 VND for a mug of hot Cafe door with locals and expats alike eager to try the unique chaos of Ho Chi Minh City. A destination in itself, it Latte) and accompanying light snacks. For something offer of European style coffee, blended drinks and offers much more than coffee; open from 7am until truly original, try the Avocado coffee or their alcohol- sweet, creamy dessert and cakes. Modern, industrial 11pm, it attracts workers, travellers and romancers alike. free chilled mojito cocktails. The name Masstige is a designed interior spanning two floors, and with a corner The locals love it (20,000 likes on Facebook!) for the blend of mass and prestige, meaning ‘premium but site street frontage which cannot be missed! coffee, the meals and most of all the gardens. obtainable’. 58 Dong Khoi, D1 7 Phan Van Tri Phuong 10, Go Vap. 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 (behind Sunwah Tower). 3822 4012 3894 5555 www.facebook.com/masstigecoffee caffebenevietnam.com LightBox Cafe Mojo Cafe Ciao Café This stunningly designed cafe also doubles as an event This modern, chic café, restaurant and bar offers freshly There's rarely a tourist who's been through inner-city and photography studio, so make sure you dress to baked homemade cakes, pastries, wood fired pizzas, Saigon and hasn't stopped in on the super-friendly- impress at this location because you never know who light fare and superb coffee and smoothies for dine in looking Ciao Café. It stands up well as an expat might snap your picture. They also serve vegetarian or take away. mainstay too, with its fashionable décor that varies cuisine with prices ranging between VND300,000 - 88 Dong Khoi, D1 from floor to floor and its classic selection of Western VND500,000 08 3827 2828 cafe and bistro favorites. 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan ww.mojosaigon.com 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 3517 6668 3823 1130 www.lightbox.vn Vecchio Cafe A self-styled Little Italy that does a good job of looking the part, this venue’s interior features ornate Italian décor, dim lighting, and antique furniture enhanced by Italian music. Offerings include fine meals, delicious gelato and beverages. 39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 6683 8618
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com CHINESE
Dragon Court Dynasty Kabin The well-heeled Chinese certainly go for luxury and New World's own slice of Canton with a particularly fine Dine Cantonese-style by the river at the Renaissance this venue has it in spades. Situated in a classy location Dim Sum selection, Dynasty is a traditional lavishly- Riverside’s own Chinese venue decked out with just opposite the Opera House, Dragon Court features styled Chinese venue with flawless design. Authenticity flourishes reminiscent of classical Qing period tastes. a broad selection of dishes from across the spectrum and a sense of old-world China make this one of Kabin’s cuisine is known for presenting new takes on of mainland cuisines, making this an ideal a-la-carte Saigon's more refined options for the cuisine. A number traditional dishes as well as for its more exotic fare. venue as well as the perfect spot for Dim Sum. of private rooms are available. Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 New World Hotel 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 3827 2566 76 Le Lai, D1 3822 0033 3822 8888 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com
Li Bai Ming Court Ming Dynasty Thoroughly traditional Chinese venue at the Sheraton The best in Chinese cuisine with a unique Taiwanese Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese food in Hotel and Towers offering choice oriental delicacies focus in a Japanese hotel, Ming Court is classy in a setting reminiscent of an old Chinese palace. against a backdrop of fine Chinese art. This opulent its precision and graceful without compromise. It’s Specialties include dim sum, abalone and dishes from venue, open throughout the day, is one of the city’s certainly one of the city’s most impressive venues for Guangdong. more beautiful restaurants in this category. fans of the cuisine, and nothing is left to chance with 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 the venue’s signature exemplary service standards. 3827 2828 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel www.libaisaigon.com 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1
Also Try...
cuisine is just as eclectic with Hung Ky Mi Gia representative dishes from several Yu Chu An old mainstay on the Chinese Yu Chu is renowned for the quality major Chinese traditions. cuisine trail with well over a decade in and presentation of its authentic 12 Duong 26, D6 operation, Hung Ky Mi Gia is known Cantonese and Peking cuisines along 3755 1577 for its classic mainland dishes with a with its elegant décor. Watching the www.7kyquan.com focus on delicious roasts. Safe and chefs prepare signature dishes such tasty Chinese food. as hand-pulled noodle, Dim Sum and 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 Shang Palace Peking Duck right in the kitchen is a Renowned as one of the finest 3822 2673 prominent, popular feature. restaurants in the city, Shang Palace 1st Floor, InterContinental Asiana boasts mouth-watering Cantonese Saigon, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Ocean Palace and Hong Kong cuisine served in A place for those who love Chinese Le Duan, D1 a warm and elegant atmosphere. food. The large dining room on the 3520 9099 Whether it be an intimate dinner for ground floor can accommodate up to www.intercontinental.com/saigon two or a larger group event, Shang 280 diners. Up on the first floor are six Palace can cater for three-hundred private rooms and a big ballroom that guests including private VIP rooms. can host 350 guests. With more than fifty Dim-Sum items 2 Le Duan Street, D1 and over two-hundred delectable 3911 8822 dishes to choose from, Shang Palace is an ideal rendezvous for any dining Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) occasion. The brainchild of an overseas 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion Chinese/Vietnamese architect 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 who wanted to build something 3823 2221 extraordinary in his home town, this venue combines the architectural features of seven world heritage structures blended into one. The
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 64 SPANISH
Olé Tapas Saigon VIVA! Tapas Bar & Grill With all the warmth you’d expect from a decent venue Tasty tapas at Vietnamese prices not far from the VIVA! Tapas Bar & Grill only uses the freshest in this category, Olé serves authentic and tasty Spanish center of District 1. Fresh ingredients, broad menu with ingredients, many imported from Spain, for the favorites with great tapas and highly-recommended food prepared by a Spanish chef. Best washed down most authentic tapas experience in Saigon, starting paella. Family-run venue with a passion for great food from under VND50,000/plate. Cool décor, indoors with authentic house sangria. and outdoors eating areas, a well stocked bar, and and good service without undue fuss. Feel at home. 53/26B Tran Khanh Du, D1 great wines from VND60,000/glass (sangria just 129B Le Thanh Ton, D1 090 930 0803 VND130,000 per HALF liter). Delivery available. 012 6529 1711 90 Cao Trieu Phat, D7
WINE
RubyRed Italian Wine Store Wine Embassy Boutique The only one Italian wine store in Ho Chi Minh City, Established in the heart of Thao Dien since October with over 200 labels of wine from all regions in Italy, 2014, Wine Embassy aims to offer wines for all budgets Nardini grappas, Sambuca Molinari and Marsala, Passiti and from all over the world carefully selected by our and Bellavista Franciacorta (official sponsor of Armani, Resident Sommelier. Zegna, Gucci and La Scala Teatre of Milan). Cozy design 41 Quoc Huong Street, Thao Dien, D2 with friendly staff and professional expert of italian wines managers (Mr. Mirko and Mr. Christian Boarin). 206 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 Also Try... lounge that serves breakfast, lunch, drinks An Phu Supermarket and early dinner. Veggy’s Large supermarket stocking a wide range A specialized grocery store carrying 41A Thao Dien. D2. well-known international brands of dry imported products, Veggy’s offers wine, a 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 goods along with fresh groceries, frozen wide range of international food imported meat and fish, fresh fruit and vegetables, from abroad and fresh produce grown in cheese, wine, toiletries and more. The Warehouse Vietnam. A premium wine importer, distributor, 43 Thao Dien, D2 23A le thanh ton, D1 and retailer supplying wines from all over the world, the Warehouse also offers Annam Gourmet spirits, wine accessories, glassware Vinifera An upscale deli and grocery chain offering Established in 2002, Vinifera is one of the and refrigeration to complement their gourmet groceries, cheese, organic most reliable wine distribution companies customers’ choices. products, gluten -free products, fruit and in Vietnam.Offering prestigious wines 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other from around the world at a a great value. beverages. All locations have a coffee 7 Thai Van Lung, D1
65 FRENCH
Augustin La Creperie L'essentiel Augustin is a romantic and charming French restaurant The first authentic Breton French restaurant in the L’essentiel offers a quiet intimate dining experience with located just steps away from the Rex Hotel. Serves country, serving savory galettes, sweet crepes space for private functions and alfresco dining on an lunches and dinners and offers 10 percent discount on with tasty seafood and some of the best apple cider upper floor. The food is fresh, traditional French, and the a la carte menu items. in Saigon. wine list is carefully collated. 10D Nguyen Thiep, D1 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 www.augustinrestaurant.com 3824 7070 094 841 5646 [email protected] 11am - 11pm
Le Bacoulos Ty Coz Le Bouchon de Saigon Le Bacoulos is a French restaurant, bar and lounge that This unassuming restaurant is located down an Delightful, welcoming French bistro that really puts on serves French cuisine, bar food like burgers, fish and alley and up three flights of stairs. The charming a show of fine quality and service. With its small-village chips alongside vegetarian options like spinach soup French owner/chef will happily run through the atmosphere and exotic cuisine, this is one of the more and Greek salad. There’s also a garden to unwind in entire menu in details and offer his recommendations. atmospheric and high-aiming venues of the genre. with a glass of wine or enjoy a game of pool. An accompanying wine list includes a wide range 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 13 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 of choices. www.lebouchondesaigon.com 3519 4058 178/4 Pasteur, D1 www.bacoulos.com www.tycozsaigon.com
Also Try... La Nicoise Trois Gourmands A traditional ‘neighbourhood’ French restaurant, La Opened in 2004 and regarded as one of the finest La Cuisine Nicoise serves simple, filling French fare at exceptional French restaurants in town. Owner Gils, a French native, A cosy restaurant just outside the main eating strip on value in the shadow of the Bitexco tower. Most popular makes his own cheeses as well. Le Thanh Ton, La Cuisine offers quality French food in for its steak dishes, the restaurant has an extensive 39 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 an upmarket but not overly expensive setting. Suitable menu which belies its compact size. 3744 4585 for special occasions or business dinners to impress. 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Regular diners recommend the filet of beef. 3821 3056 48 Le Thanh Ton 2229 8882 La Villa La Fourchette Housed in a stunning white French villa that was Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite among the originally built as a private house, La Villa features French expat community. The vintage posters and outdoor tables dotted around a swimming pool and a wood paneling add to the charm of this French eatery more formal dining room inside. Superb cuisine, with located right in downtown, a stone’s throw from the staff trained as they Saigon River. would be in France. Bookings are advised, especially 11 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 on Friday and Saturday evenings. 3829 8143 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 www.lafourchette.com.vn 3898 2082 www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 66 INDIAN
Ashoka Ganesh Natraj A small chain of slightly more upscale Indian Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian tandooris and Known for its complete restaurants serving both Northern and Southern Indian rotis along with the hottest curries, dovas and vada North & South Indian cuisine, cuisine including curries, naan and tandooris. from the southern region. Natraj’s specialty is its special 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 38 Hai Ba Trung, D1 chaat & tandoori dishes. 33 Tong Huu Dinh, Thao Dien, D2 www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com Parties, events & catering services are available, with Daily Lunch Thali and set menus. Available for delivery. Complete menu on Facebook. 41 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 6679 5267 - 6686 3168 www.facebook.com/natrajindiancuisine
Saigon Indian Tandoor The Punjabi Saigon’s original Indian eatery is still going strong, Tandoor has recently moved to a new location. The Best known for its excellent tandoori cooking executed located in a bright, roomy upstairs venue in the heart restaurant serves authentic South and North Indian in a specialized, custom-built oven, Punjabi serves of District 1. cuisine, with set lunches available, in a spacious dining the best of genuine North Indian cuisine in a venue 1st Floor, 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 area. Offers free home delivery and outside catering. well within the backpacker enclave, ensuring forgiving Halal food. menu prices. 39A – 39B Ngo Duc Ke, D1 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 39304839 / [email protected]
67 ITALIAN
Ciao Bella Inter Nos La Bettola Hearty homestyle Inter Nos means “between us” in Latin. Chef/owner Giuseppe Amorello combines sleek Italian food served Food amongst friends is exciting yet decor with traditional home cooking in this two- with flair and excellent sincere. At Inter Nos, their dishes story centrally-located Italian eatery. Expect creative service. An extensive menu is complemented with daily represent the appreciation they have dishes such as rucola e Gamberi as well as La specials. Arriving guests are greeted with a free glass towards guests, who they consider Bettola that includes shaved porchetta, focaccia and of Prosecco. Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs or on as family. Many of the ingredients homemade mozzarella. There’s a wood-burning oven the ground floor for people-watching. Big groups should are handmade, from the cheese to the pasta, even the on the premises and they try to hand-make all their book in advance. milk is taken directly from the farm. The emphasis is ingredients. 11 Dong Du, D1 on handcrafting special ingredients so that guests can 84 Ho Tung Mau, D1 3822 3329 taste the honesty in the food. 3914 4402 [email protected] 26 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 www.labettolasaigon.com www.ciaobellavietnam.com 090 630 1299 [email protected] www.internos.vn Facebook: Internossaigon
La Cucina La Hostaria VIII Re La Cucina has opened on Crescent Promenade in Designed with an intimate atmosphere invoking VIII Re Eight King Italian restaurant is an open space Phu My Hung, with an open-plan kitchen that can something like an Italian town, this venue focuses setting serving grilled dishes, pastas and wood oven accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy top-end dining on traditional ethnic Italian cuisine (rather than the pizzas. Internationally known chef Roberto Mancini featuring the best of Italian cuisine and a wide selection ubiquitous pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful brings his vast experience at five-star hotels to his of imported seafood, prepared from the freshest executive chef – straight out of Venice. The place lights restaurant. ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic atmosphere with a up on romantic Thursday evenings with candlelight and R432 Le Van Thiem, Phu My Hung, D7 wood-fired pizza oven at its heart. light music. Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 5413 7932 3823 1080 www.lahostaria.com
Also Try... Casa Italia Pendolasco Pomodoro Filling, hearty Italian fare served with a One of the original Italian eateries in Often unfairly mistaken as a purely tourist smile in the heart of District 1. Authentic Ho Chi Minh City, Pendolasco recently dining destination, Pomodoro offers an pizza and a comprehensive range of reinvented itself with a new chef and extensive range of Italian fare, especially pasta, pork, chicken and beef dishes menu, and spurned a sister eatery in seafood and beef dishes. The dining area offers something for everyone. Located District 2. Set off the street in a peaceful is in a distinctively curved brick ‘tunnel’ a stone’s throw from Ben Thanh garden with indoor and outdoor eating opening into a large room at the rear, Market. areas, separate bar and function area, it making it ideal for couples or groups. 86 Le Loi, D1 offers a wide-ranging Italian menu and 79 Hai Ba Trung 3824 4286 monthly movie nights. 3823 8998 87 Nguyen Hue, D1 Opera 3821 8181 The luxury Park Hyatt Saigon is home to Opera, an authentic Italian dining Pizza 4P’s experience open for breakfast, lunch It’s too late to call this Saigon’s best-kept and dinner. Try their famous lasagna secret: the word is out. Wander up to the and tiramisu. Head chef Marco Torre end of its little hem off Le Thanh Ton for learned his craft in a number of the most unique pizza experience in the Michelin-star restaurants throughout entire country – sublime Italian pizza pies different regions of Italy during a 14 with a Japanese twist. Toppings like you year career. Dine on the deck alfresco wouldn’t imagine and a venue you’ll be or inside in air conditioned comfort. glad you took the time to seek out. 2 Lam Son Square, D1 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 012 0789 4444 www.pizza4ps.com
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 68 JAPANESE
Gyumaru KESERA CAFE BAR Lavastone BBQ Gyumaru is a quintessentially Café Bar KESERA is an ideal space to offer you fresh Modern Japanese Yakiniku minimalist Japanese dining meals. We are here cozy and friendly serving specialist restaurant combined with a classic experience rotating around the style coffee, Japanese beers, fine wines, freshly baked cocktail bar located right in the heart of buzzing Ho Chi of meat meal Westerners would be homemade cakes, bagels and delicious Western and Minh City. Juicy BBQ in the restaurant’s home-made quick to link to a gourmet burger, but Japanese fusion foods. Live music every Saturday sauce to mind-blowing signature cocktails, you can find without the bread. Fresh, healthy, innovative cuisine night. them all at Lavastone. in a relaxed, cozy environment and regular specials 26/3 Le Thanh Ton ,Dist 1. 96B Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 including quality steaks. 0838 270 443 6271 3786 8/3 Le Thanh Ton Facebook: Lavastone BBQ 3827 1618 [email protected]
Monde Sushi Dining Aoi Yoshino A Japanese whisky bar and grill serving some of the Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, where the The decor is straight out of the set of Shogun, with best Kobe beef in the city. The menu is Japanese with whole atmosphere of the place evokes the best of black wood, tatami mats, stencilled cherry blossoms a European twist. The venue is celebrity bartender the culture. With its typical Japanese-style decor – the and all the trappings of Japanese exoticism – tastefully Hasegawa Harumasa’s first foray into Vietnam, styled smooth earthen tones of the wooden furniture and done. While Ho Chi Minh City is certainly not short after his flagship operation on Ginza’s fashionable surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the VIP rooms – of fine Japanese eateries, this one is particularly whisky bar district in the heart of Tokyo. it's possible to believe you're in a more elegant realm. impressive. 7 bis Han Thuyen, D1 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 3930 0039 3823 3333 www.sushidiningaoi.com
Also Try...
Blanchy Street K Cafe Inspired by London’s world-famous Nobu Restaurant, One of the larger Japanese restaurants in the city, this Blanchy Street’s Japanese/South American fusion exemplary sushi venue is an ideal choice for business cuisine represents modern dining at its best in and friendly gatherings. the heart of downtown, a truly international dining 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 experience in a trendy, modern and friendly setting. 3824 5355 Great sake and wine selection. www.yakatabune-saigon.com 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3823 8793 Osaka Ramen www.blanchystreet.com This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary eatery serves 11am - 10:30pm up Japanese noodles starting from VND78,000. There are also set menus, individual dishes and a range of Chiisana Hashi smaller, appetizing sides. Serves authentic Japanese cuisine including sashimi, SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential sushi, tempura, sukiyaki and shabu shabu. Complex, D7 River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 6683 5308
69 KOREAN
Galbi Brothers Lee Cho Seoul House Superb casual BBQ venue focusing on every The venue may be upscale, but the service and feel of Long-standing venue serving Korean delicacies in this foreigner’s favorite K-dish: galbi. Home of the only all- this local-style Korean restaurant is very much down- city for many years, Seoul House is simple on décor you-can-eat Korean BBQ in Saigon, GB is distinguished to-earth. Enjoy the pleasure of casual outdoor street- and strong on taste. Specializes mainly in Korean by its inexpensive lunch sets and unabashed style Korean dining without worrying about the proper hotpot and grills. enthusiasm for Korean spirits. decorum for an international venue. Great Korean 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 R1–25 Hung Phuoc 4, Pham Van Nghi – Bac, D7 dishes at good rates. 3829 4297 5410 6210 48 Hung Phuoc 2, D7 5410 1086
Won’s Cuisine One of the city’s most important Korean venues – not for reasons of authenticity, but rather for straying from the norms. The restaurant’s proprietress has infused so much of her own quirky tastes into the menu she’s completely ignored the conventions of the cuisine, making Won’s a unique creation with an unforgettable taste. 49 Mac Thi Buoi 3820 4085
THAI Koh Thai The Racha Room Supremely chic Thai venue with all the Brand new fine & funky Thai venue with authentic burn you need – or without kooky styling and a great attitude – and if you prefer. An opulent, fashionable some of the most finely-presented decor with the cuisine to match – often signature Thai cuisine you’ll see in reported to serve dishes comparable this city, much of it authentically spicy. with those of Thailand itself. Long Live the King! Reservations Kumho Link, Hai Ba Trung, D1 recommended. 3823 4423 12-14 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Lac Thai 090 879 1412 Hidden away down a narrow alley in Tuk Tuk Thai Bistro the heart of downtown this unique Thai Kitch and authentic, Tuk Tuk brings restaurant boasts authentic flavours and the pleasure of street-style Thai food surprising character. Eat downstairs at into an elegant but friendly setting. tables in a cosy, themed environment Now a fashionable venue in its own - or be brave and climb the narrow right, Tuk Tuk’s menu features some spiral staircase to the attic and crouch unique dishes and drinks you won’t see on cushions in true Thai style while elsewhere. attentive staff serve plates to share. 17/11 Le Thanh Ton, D1 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi St. D1 3521 8513 / 090 688 6180 3823 7506
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 70 STEAKHOUSE
Canada Steakhouse Corso Steakhouse & Bar New York Steakhouse We are proud to be the first restaurant to The steakhouse boasts an open kitchen with New York Steakhouse is definitely in the upmarket serve imported Alberta beef in Vietnam. private dining areas. With an extensive wine menu, category and serves exclusive American imported beef Alberta beef is world renowned for its contemporary Western and Asian cuisines and a wide dishes, with a whole range of steaks from rib eye, New tenderness, flavor, and texture. Come try range of sizzling steaks cooked to your liking, this York strip steak and tenderloin being popular options. our steakhouse. You will be amazed! is the ideal choice for a special celebration or formal 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 219C Pham Viet Chanh, D1 business dinner. 6294 8787 Ground Floor, Norfolk Hotel, 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 www.canadasteakhouse.com 3829 5368 Facebook: Canadasteakhouse219c www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 10am - 11pm
Nossa Steakhouse Pho 99 Wild Horse Steakhouse A stylish restaurant featuring Italian cuisine and Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but Pho 99 is The restaurant offers grilled pork, barbecued chicken Western steaks with a wide selection of imported known for its excellent filet mignon steaks made out of and steak dishes along with a wide selection of steaks from Australian and the US. Nossa brings food Cu Chi beef. Also serves great pho. cocktails as well as a number of smaller dishes. 8a/1d1 Thai Van Lung, D1 and decor together to create a cozy ambiance. With an 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 S36-1 Bui Bang Doan, D7 www.wildhorsesteakhouse.com attention to bringing authentic flavors, we provide good food, good prices and good taste. 36 Pham Hong Thai, D1 / www.nossa.vn
Baba's Kitchen 164 Bui Vien, District 1 49D Xa Lo Hanoi, District 2 Phone: 083-838-6661 & 083-838-6662 Open 11am to 11pm North & South Indian food Halal & vegetarian dishes Of course we can cater! order online at vietnammm.com & eat.vn "Baba brings India to Vietnam" 71 VIETNAMESE
Quan Bui Frangipani Hoa Su Mountain Retreat Leafy green roof garden, upmarket restaurant with Frangipani Hoa Su offers Vietnamese cuisine with Home style cooking from the reasonable prices and a wide menu of choices. Open a variety of dishes from different parts of Vietnam Vietnamese north in a quiet style kitchen advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi quang. It serves alley off Le Loi, Mountain with spotlighted artwork and beautiful cushions give breakfast, lunch and dinner. It also has an open space Retreat brings a rural vibe to an oriental luxurious feeling – augmented by dishes and a VIP air-conditioned room together which can busy central D1. The breezy and unassuming décor served on earthenware crockery. New Quan Bui Garden hold a maximum capacity of 500 people, making it an nicely contrasts the intense northern flavors ideally just opened in District 2. ideal venue for different types of events and functions. suited for the international palate. www.bui.restaurant 26 Le Van Mien, D2 Top floor of 36 Le Loi, D1 17A Ngo Van Nam, D1 [email protected] +84 90 719 45 57 First Floor, 39 Ly Tu Trong, D1 55 Ngo Quang Huy, Thao Dien, D2
Red Door Time Bistro Red Door offers traditional Vietnamese Timebistro – a tiny little food with a contemporary twist. The restaurant is also a restaurant will bring you platform for art talk, science talk, and social talk; where back to Saigon 1960s. Visitors will be impressed by ideas and passions are shared. romatic atmosphere with elegant and simple style 400/8 Le Van Sy, D3 which is close to your heart. 012 0880 5905 44 Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D1 Facebook: Reddoorrestaurant 09 8910 4633 www.en.timebistro.vn
Also Try... fresh beans, nuts, vegetables, flowers, hand-painted wall murals in an authentic Com Nieu and fruits. Food are complemented with propaganda style. Famous for its inclusion in the Anthony special drinks mixed from fresh fruits 21 Han Thuyen, D1 3T Quan Nuong Bourdain No Reservations program, the and vegetables. 3822 9048 Tasty BBQ venue situated above Temple venue is best known for its theatrics. 2 Thi Sach, D1 Bar. The venue has a traditional, rustic Every bowl of rice is served in a 3823 8920 Temple Club theme with old-style furniture and a terracotta bowl that is unceremoniously www.hum-vegetarian.vn Named after the old-style Chinese quaint Vietnamese decor, making this a shattered upon serving. Unforgettable temple in which the venue is located, nicely atmospheric restaurant and a great local food in a very pleasant traditionally- May the ancient stylings of this impressive place to dine with international friends styled venue. Fine Vietnamese fare served in a restaurant make for an unforgettable new to the cuisine. The menu features a 59 Ho Xuan Huong, D3 character-filled three-story rustic villa evening spent somewhere in Saigon’s number of local favorites. 3932 6363 located up a narrow alley, off the beaten colonial past. Beautiful oriental art that Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 [email protected] track. Watch the chefs prepare authentic will please all diners and great local 3821 1631 comnieusaigon.com.vn food from a varied menu in an open cuisine. kitchen. 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 Banh Xeo 46A Cuc Gach Quan 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 3829 9244 Fun Vietnamese-style creperie popular Deservedly one of the highest ranking 3910 1277 templeclub.com.vn with locals and expats alike for its tasty, Vietnamese restaurants in Saigon on healthy prawn pancakes, along with a Trip Advisor, this delightful restaurant Nha Hang Ngon Thanh Nien number of other traditional dishes. serves up traditional, country-style foods Possibly the best-known Vietnamese A favorite with tourists and locals for 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 and contemporary alternatives in two restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha many years, Thanh Nien behind the character-filled wooden houses located Hang Ngon serves up hundreds of Diamond Plaza is a buffet in a home Cha Ca La Vong on opposite sides of the street from each traditional local dishes in a classy setting, with a-la-carte dining available If you do only one thing, you'd better do it other. Unique food in a unique setting and French-style mansion. in the leafy garden outdoors. Relaxing, well – and this venue does precisely that, an unbelievably large menu. 160 Pasteur, D1 beautiful place to eat. serving only traditional Hanoian Cha Ca 10 Dang Tat, D1 3827 7131 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 salads stir-fried with fish and spring onion. 3848 0144 www.quananngon.com.vn 3822 5909 Delicious. 8am - 10pm 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 Hum Propaganda Bistro Hum is a vegetarian restaurant where Spring rolls and Vietnamese street food food are prepared on site from various with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant features
For full review, please visit: www.oivietnam.com 72 INTERNATIONAL
Bamboo Chic Cuba la Casa del Mojito Eleven Café Bamboo Chic serves an inventive Bienvenido a Cuba, The first Cuban Eleven Café is located in the center of town, a 5-minute menu of Japanese and Chinese Bar, Restaurant & Lounge! Come walk from Ben Thanh Market. The restaurant has dishes and creative cocktails. Open for dinner, the enjoy some fine Cuban Cuisine, a stylish vintage design with a friendly and cozy contemporary space features modern velvet chairs Authentic Mojitos and flavorful Cigars! Music and atmosphere. The Asian fusion menu combines Asian with purple and plum pillows and dramatic beaded Ambience will transport you to the Old Havana where & European vegetables and spices, providing a unique chandeliers inspired by the Saigon River along with live Salsa never ends. and unforgettable experience. music from the house DJ. 91 Pasteur, D1 29 Le Anh Xuan, D1 Level 9, Le Méridien Saigon Hotel 3822 7099 08 3822 2605 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 [email protected] 6263 6688 Facebook: ElevenCafeVN www.lemeridien.com/saigon
Latest Recipe Ngon Asia House Noir. Dining in the Dark Latest Recipe invites diners to an Contemporary bistro that welcomes you with style and Diners choose from a selection of set menus served international culinary experience leads you into a house of sumptuous colorful food up by visually impaired waiters completely in the dark. set against views of the Saigon River. An open kitchen cultures, rich in both flavors and inspirations. More than Choose from one of three set menus (East, West and is the focal point of this contemporary space, with chefs 350 savory street dishes from Korea, Japan, China, Vegetarian) with four or five tasting portions per course preparing an array of dishes to order. Every Sunday Thailand and Vietnam come together in one space. (starter, main, dessert). Purposely, not much more Latest Recipe serves an elaborate brunch buffet filled 99 Nguyen Hue, D1 information is provided. with tantalizing dishes from around the world. 08 3821 3821 178/180D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Level M, Le Méridien Saigon Hotel [email protected] 3C Ton Duc Thang, D1 6263 6688 www.lemeridien.com/saigon
Chanh Bistro twenty21one Chanh Bistro Rooftop Saigon is an international A new casual dining Villa Royale Treasures restaurant, café & bar with comfortable seating and venue with an innovative Villa Royale specializes in antiques from Europe and a beautiful, romantic view on the rooftop of a 7-floor tapas menu divided into Asia. Enjoy lunch or high tea while surrounded by building. Chanh Bistro has set lunches on weekdays, two categories: Looking treasures from around the world. Specializing in over selected from "A la carte" Menu for only 110.000++ VND East, and Looking West, with dishes such as Crispy 40 flavors of luxurious TWG tea. Floor 6th, 43 – 45 Ho Tung Mau Street, Dist 1. shredded duck spring rolls and Bacon-wrapped dates 3 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, D2 38214969 stuffed with Roquefort blue cheese There are two www.villaroyaletreasures.com www.facebook.com/chanhbistro dining levels: an upstairs mezzanine and downstairs 10:30 - 24:00 are tables with both private and exposed positioning (open-air streetside; and a terrace by the pool out back). 21 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3
73 Travel&Leisure MT. FANSIPAN
74 IMAGE BY DU DUC KY
75 GREAT ESCAPES: MT. FANSIPAN
The Roof of Indochina An easy 20-minute cable car ride versus an arduous two-day trek to Mt. Fansipan LORCAN LOVETT DU DUC KY Text by Images by
I WAS WIPING the sweat off my ascending 3,143 meters to Indochina’s vista more accessible than ever. brow, scanning the jungle canopy we rooftop at the tail end of the Himala- After more than two years of had just broken through, when the old yas. The veteran traveler caught his construction, Sun Group opened its Australian took his first fall. Seventy- breath and struggled on, enduring the record-breaking cable car in February two-year-old Will missed his footing latest of a string of challenges thread- 2016. It took off for the first time from and the pull of his backpack threatened ing back to the 1950s. Whether he Muong Hoa Valley near the holiday to send him crashing onto my head. He made the top or not, our 10-strong boomtown of Sapa. Set near Vietnam’s lurched forward, instead, and smacked team would venerate his gritty spirit. border with China, the VND4.4 trillion his knees against the stone slope. A number of energetic tourists still project scooped two records—one for the At that age, climbing any roof is opt for the two-day trek to summit Mt. world’s longest three-rope cable car at fraught with danger. Will’s peers get Fansipan, or Phan Xi Pang in Vietnam- 6,282 meters and another for the world’s their kicks from cleaning the gutters ese, although now there’s a 20-minute biggest ascent between the departure on their bungalows whereas he was alternative that’s made this once remote and arrival stations at 1,410 meters.
76 company has its counter arguments, Lao Cai and Sapa. He would come to like the ripe economic benefits such an tell me about it after a few hours of attraction will bring to the area. It’s also rambling together. Blissfully unaware, no stranger to controversy: currently I stumbled across the roots of beech its sitting on plans to build another trees to the lunch spot at 2,200 meters. cable car through Son Doong Cave, the After this point, the trail turned from world’s largest, after thousands of people dense jungle to forest. Wild orange and worldwide signed a petition to stop it. white orchids, magnolia and blossom- “Cable car is dirty nature,” said our ing red azaleas colored the narrowing 20-year-old H’mong guide Nhia. “Bro- ridge. Mountain toads croaked in a pond ken nature.” The young guide from the off the bushy, rolling path and, in the village at the foot of the mountain, Cat distance, mist spread across the craggy Cat, speaks his native language, broken peaks, enveloping the cable car and, English and Vietnamese. Taking the eventually, the walkers in front of me. same job as his father, he began guiding Over 2,000 species of flora and 327 tourists up Fansipan four years ago. fauna species have been discovered on Nhia skipped over a stream to fetch Fansipan so far. Nature perpetually some wild berries, his fruit picking replenishes the landscape, seen in the punctuated by laments of a drop in blackened patches of deforestation climbers since the cable car opened. that are hastily filled by clumps of Although Hoang Lien Son National Park dwarf bamboo. Whether this envi- pays him a fixed wage of VND300,000 ronment could live in harmony with for every two-day trek, fewer climbers the breaching wave of sightseers is a means fewer tips and a more vulnerable question that has worried many, but, future on the mountain. The prospect like the rest of Vietnam, the north didn’t seem to dampen his spirits too is facing unstoppable change. much. Sporting the classic H’mong With that change is the Faustian footwear, a flimsy prototype to Crocs, sting of mass tourism. Often de- he yo-yoed up and down our pack, scribed as Vietnam’s very own Swiss blithely ripping bits of cardamom leaves Alps, Sapa has always been a desirable and thorny coriander for chewing. location. The town was a fashionable This cheerful manner persisted, mountain retreat for Hanoi’s colonial despite the fact that Nhia’s family was society in the first half of the 20th rocked days before by a loss not uncom- century, and then its glamorous epoch mon in the mountainous region around was stunted by war and hardship.
Skeptics would be forgiven for seeing these claims as hyperbole dreamt up by some delirious tour operator. The reality, however, is that the pods, carrying 30 to 35 people each, can deliver 2,000 people per hour to the peak; the same number of people who reached the summit over the entire year in 2014. Critics argued the dramatic spike in visitors would spoil the natural beauty of the mountain and strip away its sig- nificance as a destination for climbers. Sun Group pressed on regardless. The
77 GREAT ESCAPES: MT. FANSIPAN
During the 1990s, the reviving tour- shacks set at 2,800 meters—where later that day. He was going to visit ism industry helped lift Sapa out of stag- the two porters waited for us. Carry- the body of his father-in-law who was nant poverty. Now, more than ever, the ing towering crates of eggs and other decapitated in a motorbike accident on local H’mong people are diverting their provisions, these women had no idea the treacherous route from Lao Cai to focus back to domestic and internation- they had won a race against two com- Sapa two days before. Coincidentally, I al travelers again. Handicrafts, jewelry petitive Dutch students in our group. had been stuck in the unfolding traffic and courting dances are being packaged We feasted on beef, tofu and rice. jam. A large truck stacked with cages into novelty experiences for visitors A rooster’s head that was balanced at had crashed into the side of a bridge, while traditional forms of income, like the top of its barely cooked limbs was and seemingly, Nhia’s family member. agriculture, are taking a backseat. The offered, too, but with its glazed eyes star- It was a reminder that no matter how influence of new money has given the ing grudgingly at the diners, there was a many restaurants or cable cars the area town a cynical edge that expresses itself silent consensus to leave the bird alone. gets, traveling on the far north’s winding through peddlers chasing tourist buses The night was filled with noises roads should be done with caution. and resenting the passengers inside. of scratching moles, rodents’ tapping The summit was whipped by rain People still come though, because feet and cats’ screams. None of us had and the view drowned in fog. Consider- the beauty of the people, with their expected a stay in the Hiltons, be- ing the wet season was well underway, hemp clothing dyed with indigo, sides; we were off again at 3:30am. We we had been lucky with the weather and the unblemished landscape can scrambled up ravines, ladders and a on the climb. We’d been told to antici- be easily found in one of the remote rope in the darkness, hoping to make pate bad conditions at the top. Perhaps villages outside of Sapa. Ultimately, the summit in time for sunrise. Our the real surprise was the strong sense if tourism is helping put food on the bodies were aching: the trek demand- of accomplishment we all shared. tables of the indigenous community, ed a good level of fitness without a The old Australian was the last authenticity loses its importance. lot of mountaineering experience. to arrive. He clambered up the final Adventure company Sapa Sisters The track became dense again, this step, blood dribbling down his forearm hires only H’mong women for guides and time with thickets of bamboo. I looked from a fall in the bamboo. “We few, focuses on taking trekkers to secluded down to see a sludgy mess of toilet waste, we happy few, we band of brothers,” spots in the region. Its director, Ylva about 20 minutes from the top. It was he said with Shakespearean spirit. Landoff Lindberg, said the construc- oozing from the construction site; the He was right for the moment, but tion of the cable car impacted littering pagoda and shopping complex, which in one hour’s time the spot would in the area and took land away from looked some time from completion. be chockablock with cable car pas- farmers. “I have gone up to Fansipan Nhia caught up and recalled the sengers who had trod up 600 steps with the cable car myself,” she said. “The experience of a fastidiously clean for the inevitable selfie fest. view was fantastic and the travel in the German woman who he guided up More than half of our group felt cable car was surprisingly fascinating. the mountain a month before. She fell too tired for the descent and returned But, except the ride, the visit on the into the “dirty water,” he said, her face in the cable car. Will breathed in top, with its pagoda, shopping center speckled with brown, and, in the same the air, picked up his backpack, and and the stairs they have built the last posture as Willem Dafoe on the film began climbing back down. Indo- part of the way, is rather depressing.” poster of Platoon, cried: “When?” china’s highest mountain will contin- The complex Ylva mentioned was We both failed at suppressing a ue to be more than a cable car ride about three hours from base camp—tin laugh. I asked Nhia if he had plans for those who dig a bit deeper.
78 Dream Machine Flying to a whole new level on an Airbus A350-900 MICHAEL ARNOLD CATHAY PACIFIC Text by Images provided by
THE EVOLUTION OF machine in every way—bigger, faster, lag, because you try to get the body TECHNOLOGY over the last 25 stronger, quieter and greener—and it into a psychological time frame.” years has reshaped metropolitan life in is poised to improve flight experiences Ultimately, though, the seating many conspicuous ways. It’s perhaps for everyone traveling on this airline. configuration is the key to anyone’s odd that with so many changes to life In a special presentation to the me- flight experience, and in this regard, on the ground, technologies in the air dia, A350 project leader Robert Taylor Cathay Pacific has improved on com- have been slow to follow suit. For Cathay went through a staggering summary of forts throughout the aircraft’s three Pacific, however—connecting to destina- the technological improvements to this class zones—including an increase in tions worldwide out of its regional hub aircraft over earlier models, listing its seat pitch, retractable arm rests, and in Hong Kong— 2016 represents a big incredibly strong and light carbon-fibre dimmable, adjustable reading lights. jump forward with the introduction of fuselage, purring Rolls Royce engines These are particularly evident in the the Airbus A350-900 XWB, which first and adaptable aerodynamic profile as Studio F. A. Porsche-designed business landed in Ho Chi Minh City early last bringing the aircraft 25 percent more ef- class and premium economy berths, month. Cathay Pacific has ordered 48 ficiency than you’d expect from a regular which can be transformed according A350-model extra wide body aircraft, airplane. “It’s like a Formula 1 sportscar to how the passenger wishes to use the which will be flown regionally before compared to a double-decker bus,” he space—whether that be to work, dine, being deployed to expand their long haul says. “Because it has less drag in the air, it relax, or sleep. Personal TVs are larger network, beginning with connections to saves fuel, and can have a slightly higher in all classes, and the remote units are Gatwick and Dusseldorf later this year. cruise speed. This airplane cruises at .85 touchscreen devices—passengers in While for the airline, this upgrade times the speed of sound, which is higher business class can view content on their to the entire fleet is part of a compa- than a conventional aircraft. Which also monitor as well as on their handheld. ny-wide convergence on their corner- means you get there a bit quicker.“ If you’re really aggressive with time, stone “life well traveled” concept, for One of the more interesting fea- try watching two movies at once! the passenger, the A350 flight experi- tures for passengers is the A350’s Beyond the physical technolo- ence feels like a step towards a journey software-controlled LED mood light- gy, what has to be the Holy Grail for on a starship. The aircraft and fit-out ing. “We can control the colors in the the modern traveler is the ability to are culminations of industry-wide cabin,” says Taylor. “At 17 million colors, check Facebook at 6,000 feet. Join the innovations in everything from ma- we can simulate sunsets, sunrises, and mile-high Wi-Fi club for a small ac- terials, aerodynamics and avionics to all phases in between, which from a cess fee and be sure to Facetime your seat and cockpit design. It’s a dream passenger’s experience reduces jet- mom from far above the clouds.
79 Patagonia Images by JIMMY VAN DER KLOET
Perito Moreno Glacier in Santa Cruz Province, Patagonia This ice field is the world's third largest reserve of fresh water
80 81 View of Mount Fitz Roy, just outside El Chalten village, Patagonia
82 83 The List Travel
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87 FEATURE MEANGIRLS… AND BOYS
From humiliation to physical violence, school bullying is an epidemic that needs to stop
TEXT BY SOPHIA CHEN
I HAVE BEEN OVER- syllable of his name. Not just one or corporal and verbal punishment in the WHELMED by the sweetness of kids two kids, several of them. The victim home is not uncommon, therefore seeing I teach at school. One student, seeing would try to ignore them and continue the same violence spilled into school me without an umbrella, ran backward his work but the bullies were relentless. is seen as normal—but that may soon through the rain to walk with me under When he finally walked away, anoth- change after a recent bullying video his. Another classroom, after a lesson er kid—the instigator and leader of went viral and made national news in on the differences between Tet and the group—pushed him. Some of the Vietnam. Last year a 90-second video Christmas, pitched in to buy me a new students also shoved him while the rest clip showed a schoolgirl driven into pair of work shoes (mine had become observed with mixed reactions. I sep- a classroom corner then punched by worn out because size 9 shoes are hard arated the victim from the bullies and three girls. The image came to an end to find in Vietnam) as a Christmas gift. made the students return to their seats. with a boy shouting, "How dare you do However, it was only recently when Later that evening I was racked with something against us!" and throws a pile I witnessed, firsthand, otherwise sweet guilt and concern because I had done of plastic stools at the victim's head. kids turn into brutes taking pleasure in nothing else to address the problem. The video was traced back to Ly Tu harassing a fellow student. The target Last year the US had 2.7 million Trong Junior Secondary School and the was a shy boy who stuttered and so cases of bullying among 50 million school board discovered that the inci- during group work they would mock children, however, statistics on bullying dent had actually occurred three months him by constantly repeating the first in Vietnam are harder to find because earlier, during a break where the victim
88 Mob Mentality bullying, students often used the term “meek” (hien lanh) when explaining Some well-intentioned teachers worry bullying and its victims. When asked that identifying a situation as “bullying” why he thought meek students were can harm the victim’s ability to “adjust” bullied, a boy from Hai Phong, who to being a victim through pretending himself was bullied and considered it’s all in good fun. A teacher who tells meek by his classmates, explained, “Be- a student, “No, the kids aren’t laughing cause they are considered weak people with you, they’re laughing at you,” un- by others. They bullied me to do things dermines a crucial defense mechanism that I otherwise would not do because of denial, a denial that also maintains I was shy. It helped me to try new harmony in the classroom. If everyone things and I think I am more confident assumes that everyone is OK with the now. As far as I know, all students who joke, nobody feels uncomfortable. witness bullying practice three no's: Typically, behavioral problems are no knowing, no hearing, no seeing." dealt with through a group consensus. In an environment where students If a student acts out, there’s a discussion are forced to spend almost all their time during class with the student present to together, they live under their own set talk about solving the problem. I once of rules that aren’t always acceptable in saw this happen after a student stole society. Students tend to follow the pack, money from another kid. I remembered to think the way everyone else is think- that got solved by getting the kids to ing. I'm sure most students are against sit around looking like terrified deer bullying, but often don't know how discussing what happened. The point to stop it so this is where schools and is to reinforce the social cost of poor parents can play a crucial role teaching behavior, which in this case meant in- kids what to do when bullying occurs. stead of learning the entire class had to Talk to your kids. It's not always uncomfortably stare at each other. This easy to get your kids to open up to keeps kids accountable for their actions. you. But that doesn't mean you should With bullying, sometimes submis- stop trying. Ask every day about their sion to the leader of the group actually day—who they ate lunch with or played reinforces the ostracism of the victim. with at recess. That will lay the ground- The group is the problem, and the group work for your children to pipe up about solves the problem. The “face-saving” little things before a crisis emerges. " solution—in which bullies explain that Be an example. Your kids they are just making jokes, that they are watching—and learn- didn’t mean harm—is presented to the ing from—your behavior. class in a way that inclines the class to Look for changes in your child's reportedly failed to listen to the head believe the problem has been resolved. behavior or belongings. If an outgo- of the class. This proved that relevant It is easier to approach that solution ing kid becomes withdrawn or a strong authorities and the public rarely hear than to have a more difficult conver- student's grades drop, take notice. of school bullying unless it is unofficial- sation about bullying, especially when And pay attention to personal items ly reported, such as on the internet. the victim is in the room, and especially that are missing, torn or mysteriously Students usually won’t defend a when most of the kids are complicit as show up in their belongings. These victim, and may join in to keep at- bystanders or audience members. The signs may indicate a child is being tention away from themselves. They point of these interventions is to pave bullied or bullying someone else. tend to follow the consensus and if the over problems by restoring group har- Treat the problem. Your response consensus is “say nothing” then kids mony—because restoring the appear- to bullying behavior will depend on either become reluctant bystanders or ance of harmony is considered just as the incident. For starters, the child an amused audience. Students are good valuable as solving the actual problem. must alert a parent or trusted adult at hiding bullying, even as victims. I Meanwhile, high school kids when feeling threatened, intimidat- often see students alone at their desk interviewed about bullying see it as a ed or excluded. Then document the during pair work activities. I assumed necessary tool for forcing students into incident, and reach out to your al- the students just weren’t interested in adapting to social norms. According lies: teachers, parents, principals and participating. I never considered they to research paper Bullying the meek: a friends. Remember that the person weren’t being allowed to take part. conceptualisation of Vietnamese school doing the bullying requires help, too.
89 FEATURE
Child’s Play After-school programs give kids a safe place to exercise their brains– and their bodies–while having fun
TEXT BY AMANDA MITCHELL IMAGES BY NGOC TRAN
WHEN I WAS A KID, I had take stock of the skills it could teach in music class. It was such a relief to a few afterschool activities available your children. Different activities tend have our schedules align, and our kids to me: Girl Scouts, high school track, to teach different skills—from teamwork enjoyed being in a larger team together. summer camp…and not much more to responsibility to creativity. Now it’s I know many families want to let their than that. But today, the possibilities time to look honestly at an activity and children do many different activities in for children can be overwhelming. consider the time commitment and hopes of giving them every advantages Depending on where you live, you cost it entails. Is your family ready for in life, but I don’t like to watch a parent could choose anything from soccer the cost and time the activity requires? become exhausted from running her to computers, equestrian to baton Can I put all (or at least more than kids to and fro...and ultimately feel like twirling, taekwondo to pottery making. one) of my children in this activity? she has to give up on extracurricular How do you even begin to choose? During their early years I really activities because they have too much on As you browse through all the websites, wanted to give each of my four children their plate. In my particulate situation, sift through the brochures, talk the perfect opportunity to explore their it worked beautifully (for the kids and with your spouse and children, and gifts. I wanted each to pursue whatever me) for us to condense our activities. consider these questions: What are activity their particular interests Would something similar work for you? my goals for this activity? What do inspired. So I signed Mimi up for ballet you hope your children/family will and Brian for baseball, put Jane in The Company You Keep gain from them? What skills will this soccer and took Dennis to karate. It activity teach my children? Perhaps was a nice idea but before long I was As we all know, coaches can have you want your children to make new going crazy driving all over Saigon significance influences on children. friends, get exercise, learn how to accommodating four different schedules! Do I like the coach/leader and the work hard physically, or explore a The hectic pace made our family feel other families in this activity? What potential talent. Whatever your goal, scattered and stressed. So I drastically is the coach like? Do you respect their let that direct your selection process. reduced. We decided all the kids would teaching and character? Also, I hesitate Once you have an activity in mind, swim on a year-round team and play to include this because I don’t want
90 to over generalize or imply that you should only interact with families just like yours but I would encourage you to consider the types of families you’d interact with in a given activity. Would you enjoy their company? Would you children benefit from spending time with them? My kids participated in swimming and band while they were young, and then soccer and music in their high school years. At least where we lived, the families and children involved in these activities tended to be hard-working and encouraging. They were just the types of people I wanted to influence my own children. Of course I would also encourage you to involve your children in the decision. If they really want to try a particular activity, consider giving it a trial run. Or maybe give them a way to show you they’re serious. If your daughter is begging for piano lessons, for example, run of a certain activity will help you his birthday. Whenever an art course you might work out an agreement that find out. There are many schools and came up within our schedule, we signed she can start lessons if she practices centers in the city who offer trial runs, Jane up. The projects she created in 10 minutes a day for the next month. it may not be posted on their website these classes were the foundation of Then agree you’ll re-assess after three but it doesn’t hurt ask. Or perhaps her art school portfolio. That portfolio months of lessons. Who knows? Maybe there are other ways to encourage these provided her with both entrance to your children really will fall in love interests. From the moment he knew it her school and a scholarship to attend. with music, art, dance or whatever it was possible, Brian loved to make films. Brian went on to study filmmaking is they keep asking (nagging) for. Jane is a natural artist who constantly in college, and now produces films How can I help my kids explore created with her hands. When we as part of his full-time work. They their talent? Do you suspect that you discovered these interests, my husband both developed skills that will give have a budding artist, public speaker or and I helped Brian nurture his gifts them a venue for expression (and, dancer in your house? Perhaps a trial and purchased amateur equipment for hopefully, income) their entire lives.
13,500 English Swimming Dance Sports Field Outdoor Play Books Pool Studio & Soft Play Gym Areas
25+ After School Activities in From 18 months to 11 years old Outstanding Book your tour now! (08) 2222 7788 / 99 | www.issp.edu.vn Elementary Facilities 92 Nguyen Huu Canh St.,Ward 22, Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
91 TELL TAIL SIGNS PET COLUMN
With a family that includes six cats, two dogs and a couple of dozen fish, Wayne Capriotti is a zoo curator and, along with his wife, publishes Vietnam’s first pet magazine Me Thu Cung (www.petmagazine.vn). Phu Quoc Ridgeback Dog Going Native Exploring the special dog breeds of Vietnam Cambodia near the Laos border. Phu Quoc Ridgebacks have uncanny combined characteristics VIETNAM IS HOME to of a cat, monkey and fish. They have beautiful living national treasures that webbed lining in their paws to allow few people know about. The treasures them to run on sand and swim in are steeped in myth, legend and water and are known to catch fish. cultural folklores. Brave and strong They climb trees and jump over hunters, fierce protectors and loyal high gates with ease and are always companions to the indigenous people spotted on the roof of a building of Kien Giang, Phu Quoc, Lao Cai and or on the top of a tall fence. They Ha Giang. They are Vietnam’s native run like cheetahs and have flexible Khanh Ngoc dog breeds: the Phu Quoc Ridgeback, cat-like bodies. They hunt alone the H'mong and the Bac Ha. or strategically within a pack in
Image by stealth mode and with precision. They make an ideal pet because 'primitive' breed raised as guardians they are medium sized and low and hunting companions by the ethnic maintenance (short haired requiring H'mong. Their hunting instincts are a quick bath once a month and little largely unchanged by man and close grooming). They are sociable with to their ancestral wolves. They are family and other pets and very playful. powerful dogs, born with naturally They are intensely loyal and make a 'docked' short tails, long straight great guard dog. However, they are muscular legs with a thick coat of fur bundles of energy and you need to in shades of black, brownish red, black run those long legs every day—not and white, and brindle. Dedicated recommended for apartment living. admirers are forming dog clubs And let’s not forget to mention throughout Vietnam to help preserve, the myths surrounding their origin. promote and create awareness of this One story is that they originated from The Bac Ha Dog primal breed. The clubs’ activities the consummation of a jackal-type of are recognized by the VKA (Vietnam dog on Phu Quoc with the mythical If there is any one of Vietnam’s breeds Kennel Association), with official breed ‘Fu-Dog’ that possessed a ridge along more obscure and lesser known, it is standards published. H’mong dogs and its back, dating to the period of the the Bac Ha dog of Lao Cai Province. their owners have representation in the Le Dynasty. Another story involves They are prized for being highly Native Dogs in Vietnam Club with an King Gia Long, the first king of the intelligent and easy to train. They annual national dog show featuring the Nguyen Dynasty who fled to Phu possess a thick fur coat ranging from H'mong and the Phu Quoc Ridgeback. Quoc after losing a battle, who was black and gray to tan and brindle. befriended by a dog and was told They originate from the cold, damp where to find refuge. For the dog's treacherous mountainous regions of Phu Quoc Ridgeback Dog reward the King placed his sword on northern Vietnam and their physical This dog is only one of three global the dog's back magically transforming appearance reflects this geography. Bac breeds that possess a peculiar, a ridge of fur—some do have a ridge Ha breeders do not recommend owning sword-shaped ridge of hair that runs that looks like an ancient sword with them in southern Vietnam because the along its spine, growing in opposite a primitive design. No one knows intense heat and humidity can lead direction from the rest of their fur. the true story of their origin. to severe skin rashes and loss of fur. Other breeds include the Rhodesian If you do travel to Phu Quoc Ridgeback (Africa), Thai Ridgeback there are still a few elders left The H'mong Dog (Thailand) and an obscure larger, that will sit with you and state The H'mongs are a very ancient, long-haired Cambodian Razorback passionately their respect and originating from the north of love of these amazing dogs.
92 THE SYLLABUS EDUCATION COLUMN
SUMMER LEARNING
Brendan Hearne is the Deputy Headteacher LOSS at Saigon Star International School. He moved Summer break doesn’t mean it’s time to Vietnam in August 2013, having previously for your child’s brain to take a break taught at two award-winning schools in the UK.
FEW PEOPLE would resent child’s academic learning during own home learning. Parents would children having more holidays than the long summer break, but first then be free to pick and choose what adults. Their brains are, after all, that means overcoming a barrier. they want their child to study more going through great change and need For many parents, there is a sub- of—and how much—as they see fit. more time to rest and recuperate conscious way of thinking that learn- Whatever a family’s preference, than their parents. However, even as ing is something that only happens whether they place high value on a teacher who is fortunate enough in school and their child’s learning is reading, spelling and handwriting, to enjoy the same holidays as his the school’s responsibility. But there or whether they want their child students, I find the long summer is, however, an undeniable correlation to pursue sporting excellence or to break a rather curious arrangement. between how much interest a parent master a musical instrument, they What is known is that its origins takes in their child’s education and could each be pointed in the right go back to the 19th century. Whether how well that child tends to perform direction. The direction parents or not the current school calendar was at school. Parental support is then go in is a very personal choice and first built around the agricultural one not just a summer-holiday issue, it is comes down to the type of child (and the need for children to work on something required all year round. each family wants to develop. the farm during the summer months) My personal standpoint is is not fully known or agreed upon, that children already spend a suf- but what strikes me as odd is that ficient amount of time in school governments and schools around the and should therefore be free to world continue to adhere to what is pursue other learning opportuni- now a somewhat archaic tradition. ties in order to become well-bal- The long summer break gives anced, well-rounded individuals. us a modern problem—the summer Unfortunately, another strong mis- learning loss. This loss of learning conception exists that ‘learning’ relates is no longer just a phenomenon, it’s only to academic subjects, and yet fact. Therefore, continuing with this learning exists in many different forms practice is not conducive to maintain- and occurs in many varied situations. ing learning gains. One could even go Whether it’s baking a cake, visiting the as far as to say that it goes against the zoo, practising a musical instrument main aims and objectives of schooling. or building something out of Lego, At a time when schools are under the common factor is learning. No more pressure than ever before to matter whether it’s something that improve learning, it seems even more has been done before or it is some- bizarre that schools have not already thing new, the neurones in a person’s moved towards a more learning-fo- brain will be firing and the synapses cused arrangement. Reasoning such getting stronger. That is learning. as: “that’s the way it’s always been” Despite being a strong advocate and “we have to fit in with what other of children being able to pursue schools do” simply doesn’t seem like non-academic learning opportunities any reasonable justification to me. Of course, every parent has differ- outside the regular school day, during One cannot help but wonder, ent expectations regarding how much the long summer break in particular, then, how schools might organize home learning their child should the teacher in me hopes that parents their school calendar different- be doing each evening. Some par- will help to maintain their child’s ly if they had the freedom to start ents expect two hours of homework, academic learning by overseeing with a blank piece of paper and no others none at all. For schools, that just a little bit of practice each day. agenda other than what is in the makes home learning a thankless and Maintaining reading habits, best interests of their students. almost impossible task to get right. exploring fun maths websites and So, while I foresee change in the A rethink is therefore required. playing board games which involve future, for now I accept the situation Rather than the teacher attempting to words and numbers are great plac- as it is and wonder how to make the plan the right amount of learning for es to start, but asking for tips and best of it. As a teacher, that means each child, a better situation would be advice from your child’s teacher encouraging parents to take on the one whereby the teacher guides par- will lead to other ideas that you responsibility for maintaining their ents toward being able to source their might not think of yourself.
93 HOMEWORK EDUCATION COLUMN
Martin Grist (IB MYP Coordinator), Janelle Codrington (IB DP Coordinator) and Paul Gordon (College Counselor) from ISHCMC. FYIONIB DP Should my child study the IB Diploma?
across subjects. This transfer of knowledge prepares students for the IB DP and also for universities and careers where often there is no one correct answer, and where ‘’knowing what to do, when you don’t know what to do’’ is a vital life skill.
What differentiates the DP program at ISHCMC from other schools? The DP program in ISHCMC is unique in that it is highly individualized and student focused. The counselors and the DP coordinator work with indi- vidual students from as early as Grade 10 in preparation for the IB courses and Diploma. Individual conferences are conducted with every Grade 10 student and every Grade 11 student, along with their parents, to ensure the subjects chosen are an appropri- ate fit for their chosen universities and courses. Counselors meet with AS GRADUATING STU- are uniquely prepared for the high- all Grade 12 students in order to DENTS from across the world ly rigorous university environment, assist with university applications. receive their International Baccalau- and are greatly valued by admissions reate Diploma Programme (IB DP) officers who understand that students How do ISHCMC students perform examination results, the International have already undertaken a curriculum in the IB DP compared to world School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISH- equivalent to the first year of university. averages? ISHCMC is proud to be Ho CMC) has cause to celebrate with Chi Minh City’s first IB World School outstanding offers to 90 universities How does the Middle Years Program with the longest history of graduat- and nearly UD1 million in scholarships (MYP) prepare students for the IB ing IB DP students. We annually see awarded to ISHCMC’s Class of 2016. DP? At ISHCMC we offer all three students going to the top universities We sat down with ISHCMC’s IB programs for our students—the IB worldwide, and believe our students’ Janelle Codrington (IB DP Coordina- Primary Years Program (PYP) from 2 excellent IB preparation gives them a tor), Paul Gordon (College Counselor) to 11 years old, the MYP from 11 to 16 distinct advantage in the admissions and Martin Grist (IB MYP Coordina- years old and the IB DP from 16 to 18 process. Our students’ acceptances this tor) to find out how studying the IB DP years old. This allows for a seamless year include: Seoul National Univer- prepares students for future success. transition as students progress through sity, New York University, Hong Kong the grades. The MYP curriculum in University, University College London, How does the IB DP prepare stu- particular builds upon the learning University of Melbourne and Uni- dents for success in university? process through a blend of concepts, versity of Toronto. Our students also Universities are seeking students who skills and knowledge. By using concepts enter some of the top art programs in are innovative, service minded, critical as a way in to learning, it encourages the world including SCAD (Savannah thinkers and independent learners. students to look beyond individual College of Art and Design), Pratt Insti- Students with an IB DP education facts and see links and connections tute and Parson’s School of Design.
94 HIGHER LEARNING EDUCATION COLUMN
THE TESSELLATION SENSATION Inter-school mathematics celebration Iain Fish is the Head of School at showcases Nobel ‘mathletes’ the European International School Ho Chi Minh City.
international schools in Ho Chi Minh City in the Saigon Mathematics Competition—took Senior honors. “Celebrating maths complements our IB approach, because it requires students to think and to inquire. It also challenges us to find talents within our students that we can foster,” said Ms. O’Connor. “Giving them this opportunity both acknowledges their achievement and challenges them to continue to improve.” The maths celebration also emphasized the critical skills of teamwork and problem solving. “We strive for authentic learning by putting our students in real world situations,” explained Ms. O’Connor. “In the 21st century, we require more of our students than just knowing a THIS SPRING, the first year-old won’t stop talking about it!’” formula. Problems are defined and annual Nobel Education Network For Secondary students, the solved by teams. So even though mathematics celebration challenged event included an inter-school maths this is a maths competition, it Nobel students to showcase their competition. Students in Grades requires the same skills students will skills with numbers and share their 6-8 competed in the Inter-School eventually need in the workplace.” enjoyment of mathematics. Organized Junior Mathematics Competition, The organizers are already by maths teachers across the Network, while Grades 9 and 10 students beginning to plan next year’s the event was designed to bring competed at the Senior level. maths celebration, which will Nobel Schools closer together while First, the students completed include even more challenging celebrating the wonder of mathematics puzzles and maths problems puzzles along with mentoring and and honoring Nobel’s “mathletes.” individually. The best performers were coaching for the mathletes. Early Years and Primary students then placed in teams that competed “Hosting this type of event gives participated in a variety of fun, against each other within each school. our students the opportunity to maths-related activities. The students Finally, the winning teams from each challenge their own perceptions invented rhymes to help memorize Nobel School competed against each of their talents, and reach for even times tables, and learned about other for first place in the Network. higher goals,” said Ms. O’Connor. “We tessellations—mosaic patterns made “The teachers worked very hard to want our students to be inquirers of shapes fitted together repetitively choose games and puzzles representing and thinkers, and to reflect on their without gaps. The students looked a variety of maths disciplines,” said successes. Internal motivation drives for examples of tessellations in their Ms. O’Connor. “We wanted to present our students towards excellence, environment and in the artwork of students with a range of problems that so we actively explore ways to M.C. Escher, and at the European they wouldn’t be able to solve easily.” offer those opportunities.” International School Ho Chi Minh In the Junior competition, teams City they worked in teams to create from Amadeus Vienna, European Ho European International School their own designs using tiles at Chi Minh City and Nobel Istanbul Ho Chi Minh City is an IB World the edge of a swimming pool. competed. Amadeus Vienna and School offering an academic and “The younger students were so European HCMC also fielded supportive English language education excited about making the tessellations,” Senior teams. The team from Nobel for students ages 2-18 years. For said Natalie O’Connor, Nobel’s Istanbul won the Junior division, more information, please visit Network Development Manager. “We while European Ho Chi Minh City— www.eishcmc.com or contact the received calls from parents the next day who have also recently had great school via email [email protected] / asking ‘What is a tessellation? My four- success competing against other telephone number (+848) 7300 7257.
95 The List Education INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
ABC International School (ABCIS) EUROPEAN International School International School Inspected and judged an outstanding Ho Chi Minh City Saigon Pearl (ISSP) school by British Government The EUROPEAN International School Vietnam’s only international Inspectors (October 2013), the ABCIS Ho Chi Minh City is an IB World School school offering a U.S. curriculum is one of the few schools worldwide offering an academic and supportive for children 18 months to 11 awarded this Department for Education English language education for students years old within a 100% English rating. Progress of students puts the ABCIS among aged 2-18 years. EIS is committed language environment. With a library containing over the top 8% of schools in the world. Providing to educating students to become creative critical 13,500 English books and more than 60% of students education for 2-18 year olds in a supportive and thinkers and problem solvers. Students are immersed achieving above grade level English, ISSP graduates friendly environment, it delivers a culturally adapted in a multicultural learning environment which values are well prepared for secondary school at ISHCMC or version of the British National Curriculum supported multilingualism. Language programmes at ISHCMC – American Academy. by Cambridge & AQA IGCSE and AS/A levels. EIS include Spanish, German, French 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Students are prepared for Universities in the UK, USA, and Vietnamese. +84 (8) 2222 7788/99 Australia, Korea and Canada. 730 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien, D2 [email protected] Foundation & Early Primary Campus: www.eishcmc.com www.issp.edu.vn 4, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, HCMC Primary & Secondary Campus: 2, 1E Street, KDC Trung Son, Binh Hung, Binh Chanh, HCMC 5431 1833-34-35-36 [email protected] www.theabcis.com
Saigon Star The American School The International School International School The American School (TAS) is Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC) Saigon Star is a student an international school that has ISHCMC is HCMC’s most established focused international been accredited by the Western international school and first IB school offering a high quality, first class education. Association of Schools and World School authorized to teach all Specialising in the British National Curriculum, all Colleges (WASC), representing 20 nationalities. TAS 3 International Baccalaureate programs for students of the class teachers hold an international teaching provides an American-based curriculum with rigorous 2 to 18 years old. ISHCMC is excited to launch a new qualification. In our Early Years programme, a performance standards and a variety of academic secondary campus in 2017, featuring Vietnam’s first Montessori specialist works closely with the offerings including Advanced Placement courses, Innovation Center, a 350-seat professional theater, mainclass teachers to ensure a high rate of university credit courses through our partnership NBA-sized basketball courts, 25m – 8 lane competitive progress and attainment. The school also provides with Missouri State University, and an Intensive ESL swimming pool and sports field. specialists for children requiring Program for English Language Learners. 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 additional ESL support. 177A, 172-180 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 +84 (8) 3898 9100 Residential Area No.5, 3519 2223 / 0903 952 223 [email protected] Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 [email protected] www.ishcmc.com 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 www.tas.edu.vn www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn
96 Also... Renaissance International School Saigon Renaissance is an International British School offering the National Curriculum for England complemented by the International Primary Curriculum (IPC), Cambridge American International School IGCSE and the International Baccalaureate. The school Founded in 2006, American International School has made a conscious decision to limit numbers and (ΛIS) is a private, coeducational, university-preparatory keep class sizes small to ensure each pupil is offered school for students from preschool to grade 12. The an education tailored to meet their individual learning language of instruction is English. The school offers needs. It’s a family school providing first-class facilities standard American curriculum with a complement of including a 350- seats theater, swimming pools, mini- performing arts, visual arts, music and sport programs. pool, drama rooms, gymnasium, IT labs, music and www.ais.edu.vn drama rooms, science labs and an all-weather pitch. Australian International School (AIS) www.renaissance.edu.vn The Australian International School is an IB World Saigon South International School The International School School with three world class campuses in District Founded in 1997, Saigon South International Ho Chi Minh City – American Academy 2, HCMC, offering an international education from School seeks to accommodate an increasing need kindergarten to senior school with the IB Primary Years ISHCMC – American Academy is a U.S. for American education for both local residents Programme (PYP), Cambridge Secondary Programme and expatriate families. SSIS enrolls over 850 curriculum secondary school, preparing (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Programme (DP). students aged 11 to 18 years old for students in Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over Xi Campus (Kindergarten) thirty-three countries in a spacious six-hectare, success at universities worldwide. Early university www.aisvietnam.com credits, through SUPA and AP courses, a 1:1 University well-equipped campus. Counseling Program, and an extensive EAL program British International School (BIS) www.ssis.edu.vn sets our graduates on the road to success with 100% Inspected and approved by the British Government, BIS The French International School Saint Ange acceptance rate and U.S. $1 million scholarship fund to provides a British style curriculum for an international overseas universities. Saint Ange welcomes children for their Kindergarten student body from pre-school to Year 13. The school and Primary School. The school follows the program 16 Vo Truong Toan, D2 is staffed by British qualified and trained teachers with +84 (8) 3898 9100 of the French Education Ministry, and includes English recent UK experience. Fully accredited by the Council lessons every day. Activities and subjects such as arts, [email protected] of International Schools and a member of FOBISIA, BIS www.aavn.edu.vn sports and school trips are also an important part of is the largest international school in Vietnam. their curriculum. www.bisvietnam.com www.sa-saigon.com Deutsche Schule Ho Chi Minh City The Montessori International School of Vietnam International German School For children 6 months to 9 years old. A registered Deutsche Schule (IGS) offers a German curriculum member of the American Montessori Society. from Early Years to Grade 12 which is approved and Montessori uses an internationally recognized supported by the German government. IGS is staffed by educational method which focuses on fostering the native German, Vietnamese and English speakers who child’s natural desire to learn. The aim is to create a have many years of teaching experience. sense of self and individuality through an encouraging We offer a link between Vietnamese and German and learning environment. Available are Extra-curricular culture, an international program with German Activities, Summer camp and immersion programs in standards and the immersion of German culture into Vietnamese, French and Mandarin. everyday life. www.montessori.edu.vn www.igs-hcmc.de
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