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BA Ritgerð Kínóa BA ritgerð Mannfræði Kínóa - ofurfæða þeirra efnuðu Áhrif neyslu kínóa á umhverfi og samfélög í Andesfjöllum Nanna Amelía Baldursdóttir Leiðbeinandi: Helga Ögmundardóttir Júní 2021 Kínóa – ofurfæða þeirra efnuðu Áhrif neyslu kínóa á umhverfi og samfélög í Andesfjöllum Nanna Amelía Baldursdóttir Lokaverkefni til BA–gráðu í mannfræði Leiðbeinandi: Helga Ögmundardóttir 12 einingar Félagsfræði–, mannfræði– og þjóðfræðideild Félagsvísindasvið Háskóla Íslands Júní 2021 Kínóa – ofurfæða þeirra efnuðu Áhrif neyslu kínóa á umhverfi og samfélög í Andesfjöllum Ritgerð þessi er lokaverkefni til BA í mannfræði og er óheimilt að afrita ritgerðina á nokkurn hátt nema með leyfi rétthafa. © Nanna Amelía Baldursdóttir, 2021 Reykjavík, Ísland, 2021 Útdráttur Neysla kínóafræja verður vinsælli með hverju árinu, en það gerist samhliða auknum áhuga á grænmetis, vegan, glútenfríu og lífrænu mataræði. Breytt mataræði og aukin neysla kínóa er jákvæð þróun enda tengist mataræði, að hluta til, sumum af þeim umhverfis- og heilsufarslegu vandamálum sem mannkynið stendur frammi fyrir í dag. Kínóaplantan er talin vera hugsanleg lausn á mataröryggi mannkyns í framtíðinni þar sem hún getur vaxið við mismunandi veður- og umhverfisaðstæður og vegna þess hversu næringarrík hún er. Þó er með kínóaneyslu eins og margt annað í þessum efnum að henni fylgja neikvæðar hliðar. Kínóa var fyrst ræktað af Inkum í Suður-Ameríku fyrir mörg þúsund árum og var þekkt sem fæða fátækra allt fram á 20. öld þar til neysla þess öðlaðist vinsældir utan heimsálfunnar. Aukinn áhugi olli því að verð kínóa hækkaði. Þetta hefur haft áhrif á fátæk samfélög í Andesfjöllunum og neikvæð áhrif á umhverfið eru þar farin að sjást í kjölfar aukinnar framleiðslu. 3 Abstract The consumption of quinoa increases with each passing year, along with a growing interest in vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free and organic diets. Dietary shifts and increased consumption of quinoa are positive changes, as peoples diet is closely connected to many of the environmental and health problems humanity faces today. The quinoa plant is considered to be a possible solution to future food security as it can be grown in a variety of different weather and environmental conditions and is highly nutritious. Increased consumption of quinoa, however, has its downsides. Quinoa was first cultivated by the Incas in South America thousands of years ago and was regarded as “food for the poor” until the 20th century when it was recognized as a “superfood“. Increased interest has raised the price of quinoa, which has affected poor communities in the Andes, and negative environmental effects, due to increasing quinoa cultivation, are starting to manifest themselves. 4 Formáli Þessi ritgerð er 12 eininga (ECTS) lokaverkefni til B.A. prófs í mannfræði við Félagsfræði-, þjóðfræði- og mannfræðideild Háskóla Íslands. Ég vil þakka mínum nánustu fyrir allan stuðninginn, þolinmæðina og hvatninguna sem ég fékk á meðan á ritgerðarskrifunum stóð og í gegnum námið í heild sinni. Sérstakar þakkir fá móðir mín, Heiðbjört Ófeigsdóttir, Sigrún Edda Elíasdóttir og Kristín Ýr Pétursdóttir fyrir yfirlestur og góðar ábendingar. Einnig vil ég þakka leiðbeinanda mínum Helgu Ögmundardóttur lektor í mannfræði fyrir alla hjálpina og frábæra leiðsögn. 5 Efnisyfirlit Útdráttur ........................................................................................................................ 3 Abstract ......................................................................................................................... 4 Formáli ........................................................................................................................... 5 Efnisyfirlit ....................................................................................................................... 6 1 Inngangur .................................................................................................................. 7 2 Kínóa (Chenopodium quinoa) .................................................................................. 10 2.1 Saga kínóa ..................................................................................................... 10 2.2 Næringargildi ................................................................................................ 12 2.3 Hin harðgerða kínóaplanta ............................................................................ 12 3 Aukin eftirspurn eftir hollum og umhverfisvænum matvörum ............................... 15 3.1 Grænmetisætur og veganistar ....................................................................... 16 3.2 Tengsl á milli mataræðis, umhverfis og loftslagsbreytinga ............................. 18 3.3 Lífræn ræktun ............................................................................................... 20 4 Á mitt mataræði að innihalda kínóa eða ekki? ........................................................ 22 4.1 Áhrif ræktunar og útflutnings kínóa á umhverfi og samfélög ......................... 23 4.1.1 Hnignun líffræðilegrar fjölbreytni ........................................................... 24 4.2 Kínóabændur, nágrannar þeirra og sanngjörn viðskipti ................................. 25 4.2.1 Fara fréttamiðlar og greinar með rétt mál? ............................................ 27 4.2.2 Hringrás viðskipta innanlands og orðspor bænda ................................... 28 4.2.3 Framtíð kínóa ......................................................................................... 29 5 Umræður og lokaorð ............................................................................................... 31 Heimildaskrá ................................................................................................................ 35 6 1 Inngangur Hugmyndin að þessari ritgerð vaknaði í september 2020. Ég var að skoða áfanga sem voru í boði í Uppsalaháskóla þegar ég rakst á einn sem hét Global Challenges and Sustainable future. Þar sem ég hef mikinn áhuga á framtíð jarðarinnar og áhrifum mannsins í þeim málum ákvað ég að slá til og skráði mig í áfangann. Fyrsta verkefnið í áfanganum snerist um að velja sér verkefni sem væri sjálfbært og jákvætt fyrir framtíðina. Ég ákvað að gerast grænmetisæta í mánuð þar sem ég hef áhuga á að minnka neyslu mína á unnum dýraafurðum og kjöti. Ég hugsaði það fyrst og fremst tengt heilsu en einnig í tengslum við loftslagsbreytingar og velferð dýra. Þegar ég var búin að ákveða verkefnið hófst leitin að uppskriftum og upplýsingum um grænmetisætur, hvaða vítamín þarf að taka inn, hvað þarf að forðast og annað slíkt. Eins og í mörgum tilfellum þegar leitað er heimilda, þá leiðir eitt þig annað og að lokum ertu komin á allt annan stað en þú byrjaðir á. Það vakna fleiri spurningar og svörin verða fleiri og flóknari en í upphafi. Ég hafði áhuga á að finna uppskriftir sem innihéldu kínóa eftir að hafa lesið um að það væri næringarríkt. Það var þá sem ég rakst á greinarnar „Can Vegans Stomach the Unpalatable Truth About Qinoa“ (Blythman, 2013) og „Eating quinoa may harm Bolivian farmers but eating meat harms us all“ (Bekhechi, 2013). Eftir lestur greinanna kviknaði hugmyndin að efni þessarar ritgerðar. Fyrri greinin eftir Blythman (2013) fjallar um kínóabændur í Andesfjöllum, nýlegar vinsældir kínóa um allan heim og áhrif þess á heimamenn og bændur í Andesfjöllunum í Bólivíu. Þegar ég las greinina fyrst fann ég fyrir skömm og varð fyrir smávægilegu áfalli. Eftir lesturinn gat ég ekki hugsað mér að borða kínóa aftur. Ég velti einnig fyrir mér hvort aðrir einstaklingar, t.d. veganistar (e. vegans) og grænmetisætur (e. vegetarians), leiti sér almennt upplýsinga um matvæli, eins og kínóa, eða hvort fólk geri ráð fyrir að korn, plöntur og annað sem er ekki dýraafurð sé eingöngu og alltaf umhverfisvænt og hollt. Seinni greinin, sú eftir Bekhechi (2013), er svar við fyrri greininni en hún varð til þess að ég endurhugsaði ákvörðun mína um að borða aldrei kínóa aftur. Hún minnti mig á að ein grein á internetinu er ekki heilagur sannleikur, heldur aðeins ein hlið á umfangsmikilli og mikilvægri umræðu. Þar talar rithöfundurinn um að kjötneysla sé mun verri fyrir allt mannkynið sem heild og að neysla kínóa sé aðeins slæm fyrir kínóabændur í Bólivíu. Forvitni mín tók yfir og ég kynnti mér málið betur. Er verið að brjóta á réttindum 7 kínóabænda með tilraun efnaðra jarðarbúa til að verða umhverfisvænni? Hvaða afleiðingar hefur það fyrir umhverfið að efnaðir jarðarbúar neyti kínóa í auknum mæli? Kínóa er planta sem lengi hefur verið ræktuð í Andesfjöllum eða í um 5.000 til 7.000 ár. Í upphafi var hún aðallega ræktuð sem fæða fyrir búfénað en síðar meir fóru bændur og nágrannar þeirra að bæta kínóafræjum í mataræði sitt. Inkarnir sáu plöntuna sem heilaga og sögðu hana vera gjöf frá sólarguðinum Inti. Þrátt fyrir að kínóafræin líti út eins og korn og að það sé hægt að nota þau í stað korns þá er kínóaplantan ekki flokkuð sem korntegund. Kínóaplantan er skyld spínati og sykurrófum (González o.fl, 2015, bls. 2; Petruzzello, 2021). Vinsælast er að neyta fræja plöntunnar en það er þó einnig hægt að borða rætur, stöngul og blöð hennar. Plantan getur vaxið við hinar ýmsu aðstæður allt frá nokkrum metrum yfir sjávarmáli upp í hæstu fjöll. Hún vex í frosti og þurrki, getur lifað af flóð og verið nánast án vatns. Kínóaplantan er því af mörgum talin vera lykillinn að mataröryggi mannkyns í framtíðinni (Ruiz o.fl, 2014; Zurita-Silva o.fl, 2014). Mikið er til af nýlegum heimildamyndum sem fjalla um ástandið í heiminum í dag er varðar loftslagsmál, heilsu mannkyns og velferð dýra. Þessar heimildamyndir
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