Pacific Puddle Jump Recap —
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PACIFIC PUDDLE JUMP RECAP — These days, given the vagaries of changing weather patterns all over the planet, sailing conditions on any long bizarre incident in Sightings, page 67.) How did your passagemaking ocean passage are apt to present a few Schooler's death is the second fatality experience differ from your expecta- surprises. we know of during the 20 years we've tions before the trip? Were there any This year, thanks to the infl uences of been reporting on this annual cruiser surprises? El Niño, many Pacifi c Puddle Jumpers migration. The fi rst was also a single- Bolero — Having done various Trans- reported that conditions were less than hander. He apparently fell overboard and pacs, sailing was as expected; sleep was ideal as they sailed from the West Coast his body was never found. by far much better. Our pleasant sur- of the Americas to French Polynesia: prise was not being impacted by the ITCZ as badly as expected. The bad surprise A s in years past, we met many of the sailors quoted here at our an- nual Pacifi c Puddle Jump sendoff I think we did more sail parties at Banderas Bay, Mexico, and Panama — the two most popu- changes in a day lar jumping-off points for PPJers. than I did on the When we caught up with some of the same folks last month in Tahiti, entire Pac Cup. their hair was a bit shaggier, they looked more fi t and tan, and the was how weak the southern trades were. smiles on their faces attested to the Wanderer — We had a much more pride of accomplishment that comes pleasant experience on our crossing from from completing such a long, non- the Galápagos to the Marquesas than stop passage — 4,000 miles direct expected. We fl ew the spinnaker for 13 from Panama, or 3,000 miles from days out of the 21 that it took us to make Mexico or the Galápagos. the passage — beautiful sailing and an What follows are excerpts from unparalleled experience. ECHO our annual PPJ passagemaking Velic — More sail changes than ex- Wearing silk batiked pareus and garlands of survey. Of the 182 boats that registered pected. More variable winds, both in fresh-picked fl owers, these happy girls capture on www.pacifi cpuddlejump.com, only 30 direction and in speed, than expected. the essence of Polynesia. participated, but the thoughts and in- Much less 'trade-wind sailing' than generally lighter-than-normal winds and sights you'll read here serve as a reason- expected. Fewer sea birds and less sea more unsettled weather in the equatorial able sampling of the overall fl eet — which life in general than expected, especially doldrums (Inter-Tropical Convergence includes sailors from many nations. In during the mid-passage, once we were Zone). addition to the fi rsthand comments, be far away from coastlines. As frustrating as the weather may sure to check out the table of passage Below: Approaching landfall is an emotional have been at times, though, arriving data on page 76 — especially if there experience. Right: Brothers Dylan, 11, and in the lush green anchorages of the might be a Puddle Jump in your future. Jayden, 7, scout a typical anchorage. Marquesas, and acclimating to their centuries-old Polynesian culture, were as rewarding as ever. When we caught up with many of this year's passagemak- ers in Tahiti last month, their wide-eyed tales about snorkeling in sparkling lagoons, hiking to mountaintop vistas, and forging friendships with islanders far outweighed complaints about the weather. In contrast to all those joyful memo- ries, however, two tragic incidents shocked the fl eet. The fi rst was the May 2 grounding of Bruce Moroney's Alaska- based Amel 46 ketch Morning Dove on a reef outside Rangiroa during a nighttime transit. Moroney and his crew were un- harmed, but the boat was badly holed. The second was the grounding of the San Diego-based Hylas 42 Entertainer on Takapoto Atoll in the Tuamotus early last month. The body of singlehander Louis Schooler was reportedly observed dead in the cockpit by an air crew, but when they returned the next day to retrieve the corpse, it was gone. (Read details of this BATU Page 84 • Latitude 38 • September, 2016 EL NIÑO STOLE THE TRADE WINDS Moonraker — Expected to see other elsewhere in the Pacifi c. On this boats plus commercial shipping as we crossing they did not seem to crossed, but we saw no other craft at all. exceed 30 knots. We expected to see more sea life, sharks Enough — Listening to the and whales. seminars and to others who had Compañera — There were three of us done Puddle Jumps we were onboard and none of us were bored or convinced it was going to be a even had much free time. We ate well long, boring passage: "You'll run and sailed well. Taking care of the boat out of books to read!" On day two and ourselves took up all available time. the squalls hit and didn't let up Leaving from southern Baja is usu- until our equator crossing three ally a rough passage for the fi rst day or days before arrival. I think we so. Then the seas settle and the winds did more sail changes in a day steady. It is a total high sliding through than I did on the entire Pac Cup. the ocean at sunset, being carried along Of course, we did cross the ITCZ by a warm breeze and the promise of three times in search of wind. high adventure. That cannot go unpunished. Sangvind — It was much as we ex- Anakena — Coming across BATU pected. I was pleasantly surprised that we never got the trades, but had a lot Judging by her smile, we assume that Karen the squalls we encountered were less of squalls. On other passages we devel- of 'Batu' was thrilled when the family got the intense than others we had experienced oped a rhythm, but not on this cross- hook down in this lush Marquesan anchorage. ing. I think it ing to get something out of us, or had any was a bad year resentment toward us. We exchanged because of El clothing for fruit. Wow! Those pample- Niño. mousse, so sweet! Bought bundles of SANGVIND Carola — We bananas, and arranged for dinners with had way more the locals at their homes. An unforget- weather — table experience. stronger winds Wanderer — The high points were cer- and squalls — tainly enjoying the beautiful conditions than expected. as well as being able to enjoy some of the Therefore, more seafood that the sea has to offer. Such high-mileage a pleasant experience, we aren’t able to days, but they think of any low points. were stressful. Wind of Change — The high point Yollata — was defi nitely the night before making Calmer weather landfall. In order to enter Atuona on Hiva than expected, Oa at daybreak we had to slow down. although we did With all sails down and the engine off, sail quite south we drifted in bright moonlight toward our to avoid the destination at 1.5 knots. It was spiritual. convergence No particular low point that I could point zone. Also, we out. had two additional crew, when usually Serenity — The high points were: we sail doublehanded with two children (6 and 8), so we were far less tired than Capt. Peter of 'Batu' shows off the Marquesan souvenir that takes up no space aboard. The we usually are. We even managed school stylized turtle he chose is a typical motif. most days! Ta-B — Having crossed the Atlantic twice, crossing the Pacifi c was a doddle. In fact it was much, much easier than expected. They say a long crossing is often a balance of highs and lows. What were some of the high points, or low points, of your crossing? Bolero — The high point was by far the people of the Marquesas. We found them to be incredibly welcoming, sincere, happy people content with their islands and lifestyle. We never felt they were try- BATU September, 2016 • Latitude 38 • Page 85 PACIFIC PUDDLE JUMP RECAP — EAD BATU THE RED THR IDLEWILD ENOUGH ECHO catching fi sh (especially the skipjack likely be, both wonderful and not-so- other low was getting a weather forecast that broke the fi shing reel); the one or wonderful. after the fi rst week out of the Galápagos, two days where the swell was light but Moonraker — Highs: taking part in the saying that the next week was very quiet the breeze was fresh and we were able to pub quiz over the SSB radio; the night at all latitudes. sail at a brisk six knots without burying sky. Low: being becalmed for a day, and Enough — High points: having my the leeward rail or taking a lot of waves 25 days at sea. kids do the noon report, crossing the over the deck; enjoying fresh pizza at sea; Sangvind — It is always a pleasure equator into nice weather and fi nally tak- and the excitement as our arrival became point to watch the dolphins, boobies and ing off the foulies. Low point: dropping something tangible — not just a dream south too soon then having to sail 234 off in the distance. miles back to our rhumbline. The low point was definitely the High points included Icaros (from Panama) — High points night we spent adrift (July 3), not sure included sailing well for days upon days if we'd be able to get the engine running sailing well for days upon with steady 10- to 20-knot breezes, smoothly again after discovering water days with steady lovely sunsets and sunrises, and starry in both fuel fi lters and the fuel tank.