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Food and Beverage Combinations – Sommeliers’ Perspectives and Consumer Patterns in Sweden

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Food and Beverage Combinations – Sommeliers’ Perspectives and Consumer Patterns in Sweden Food and beverage combinations – Sommeliers’ perspectives and consumer patterns in Sweden This dissertation is dedicated to all sommeliers out there doing combinations The Connoisseur does not drink wine but tastes its secrets Salvador Dali Örebro Studies in Culinary Arts and Meal Science 14 HENRIK SCANDER Food and beverage combinations – Sommeliers’ perspectives and consumer patterns in Sweden Cover photo: Karepa Back side portrait photo: Hasse Lundholm © Henrik Scander, 2019 Title: Food and beverage combinations – Sommeliers’ perspectives and consumer patterns in Sweden Publisher: Örebro University 2019 www.oru.se/publikationer-avhandlingar Print: Örebro University, Repro 08/2019 ISSN 1652-2974 ISBN 978-91-7529-293-9 Abstract Henrik Scander (2019): Food and beverage combinations – Sommeliers’ perspectives and consumer patterns in Sweden. Örebro Studies in Culinary Arts and Meal Science 14. As beverage intake can play an important part of choosing a healthy diet, it is important to increase awareness of the contribution of beverages to overall energy intake for consumers. The professional sommelier has for a long time served as a cultural intermediary, providing guests with good food and beverage combina- tions. Here, a clear gap was identified between health and the current practice of sommellerie. The aim of the thesis is to develop knowledge about food and beverage combinations by investigating the consumption patterns of a Swedish population. The thesis will also explore the sociocultural understanding of taste and the practices of professional sommeliers. The understanding of energy contribution and beverage patterns were linked to health, which led to the suggestion that sommeliers should gain from nutritional knowledge – in particular focused on beverage. Further- more, sommeliers talk about ‘good’ combinations as a matter of refined taste, acquired through long-term practical engagement with wine and food. Foods expressed as ‘unrefined’, could also be becoming legitimate as cultural capital when combined with the right beverage. Also, perform- ing food and beverage combinations was a routinised activity surrounded by rules, competence and materiality and was driven by the will to satisfy guests. It was also a part of shaping of sommeliers’ identity through a continuous striving for improved competence. Altogether, nutritional knowledge, acquisition of taste, goods re- evaluation and legitimacy as well as identity shaping gives sommeliers an extended knowledge when combining food and beverage, providing guests with not only the desired taste but also the possibility of serving healthier combinations. This extends the range of workplaces for somme- liers in the restaurant industry, but also to elderly care, hospitals and the like, as all people in those environments should have the opportunity to enjoy good meals according to both taste and health considerations. Keywords: Bourdieu; craft drinks; food pairing; meal; restaurant; riksmaten; sommelier; practice theory. Henrik Scander, School of Hospitality, Culinary Arts and Meal Science Örebro University, SE-701 82 Örebro, Sweden, [email protected] List of appended papers The present thesis is based on the appended papers listed below. In the thesis they are referred to by their Roman numeral. Paper I Beverage consumption patterns and energy contribution from beverages per meal type: results from a national dietary sur- vey in Sweden. Scander, H., Monteagudo, C., Nilsen, B., Tellström, R., & Yngve, A. (2018). Public Health Nutrition, 21(18), 3318-3327. doi:10.1017/S1368980018002537 Paper II Food and beverage dinner combinations, patterns among Swedish adults. Scander, H., Monteagudo, C., Nilsen, B., Tellström, R., & Yngve, A. (2018). International Journal of Gastronomy and Food Science, 14, 20-26. doi.org/10.1016/j.ijgfs.2018.08.003 Paper III Acquiring taste: Sommeliers on “good” food and beverage combinations. Scander, H., Neuman, N., Tellström, R., & Yngve, A. (2019). Appetite, in progress, resubmitted. Paper IV Sommeliers’ food and beverage combinations – social con- ventions and professional identity. Scander, H., Neuman, N., & Tellström, R. (2019). Journal of Gastronomy and Tour- ism, accepted 31 July 2019. Reprints were made with the permission of the publisher. Table of Contents INTRODUCTION .................................................................................. 13 Starting points ......................................................................................... 13 Professional Sommeliers ...................................................................... 14 AIM ........................................................................................................ 17 General aim ............................................................................................. 17 Specific aims ............................................................................................ 17 SUMMARY OF THE APPENDED PAPERS ........................................... 18 Paper I: Beverage consumption patterns and energy contribution from beverages per meal type: results from a national dietary survey in Sweden ................................................................................. 21 Paper II: Food and beverage dinner combinations patterns among Swedish adults..................................................................................... 22 Paper III: Acquiring taste: sommeliers on ‘good combinations’ of food and beverages ............................................................................. 23 Paper IV: Food and beverage combination as a professional practice – a qualitative study of sommeliers ..................................................... 24 Structure of the thesis .............................................................................. 26 DISCIPLINARY BACKGROUND OF THE THESIS .............................. 27 Culinary arts and meal science ................................................................ 27 Theoretical perspectives of taste and consumption .................................. 28 Forms of capital .................................................................................. 29 From Bourdieu and the turn to practice theory ................................... 30 Objectivity and subjectivity of taste qualities ...................................... 32 Research on food and beverage combinations ......................................... 34 Consumption patterns and dietary guidelines in general ......................... 35 Guidelines on drinking ........................................................................ 36 Meal and beverage patterns in the Swedish context ................................ 37 The importance of beverages ............................................................... 39 Alcoholic beverage consumption patterns ........................................... 41 METHODS AND MATERIALS ............................................................. 42 Doing a dual methodology thesis ............................................................ 42 Papers I and II ......................................................................................... 42 Study population ................................................................................. 42 Estimations of food and beverage consumption and energy and alcohol intake ...................................................................................... 43 Food and beverage dinner combinations ............................................. 44 Data analysis and statistics .................................................................. 44 Papers III and IV ..................................................................................... 45 Recruitment and data collection .......................................................... 45 Analysis ............................................................................................... 47 Talking about practices ....................................................................... 48 Credibility ........................................................................................... 48 Reflexivity ........................................................................................... 49 Transferability ..................................................................................... 50 Inside perspective ................................................................................ 50 Ethics ....................................................................................................... 51 RESULTS ................................................................................................ 52 Paper I ..................................................................................................... 52 Paper II .................................................................................................... 52 Paper III ................................................................................................... 53 Paper IV .................................................................................................. 54 DISCUSSION AND CONTRIBUTIONS ................................................ 56 Pros and cons of beverage energy contribution........................................ 56 Good combinations for better health ....................................................... 58 Food and beverage pairing as good taste ................................................. 61 Practices of food and beverage pairing ...................................................
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