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Journal 2016 11-10-16B Journal 2016A
THE FELL AND ROCK JOURNAL 2016 Ron Kenyon - President 2014-2016, at top of Goldrush (HVS), No 85 Adrar Iffran, Anti-Atlas, Morocco. Edited by Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul Contents Fell and Rock Climbing Club Climbing New Climbs 143 Journal 2016. Lakes 100 James McHaffie 9 Cobbling it Together Dan Hamer 16 Book Reviews 161 Editing Lurking Fear (Gregory and I) Peter Graham 21 Martin Cooper and Andrew Paul Cassin Route Peter Metcalf 24 The Persistence of Memory Roger Wilkinson 31 Design and Typesetting Tatry Adventures Tony Walker 35 Obituaries 206 Andrew Paul A Grand Day Out Ian Stirrups 41 Pabbay 2015 Ron Kenyon 44 Proofreading Maureen Linton-Lee, Simon Jefferies, Accidents and Rescue Phil Powell, Ron Kenyon. A Year to Remember John Wilkinson 52 Obituaries Fractures on the Fells Christina Paul 55 Wendy Dodds Dow Crag Incident Martyn Carr/ Paul Exley 57 Helicopters in Mountain Rescue Richard Tolley 61 Distribution Martin Cooper Front Cover: Upper Grains Ghyll Buttress, Mountain Adventures Allen Crags. Whole Grain (HVS). Climber - All rights reserved. No part of this Paul Clarke. Photo - Richard Tolley publication may be reproduced or St Kilda Alan Hinkes 69 transmitted in any form or by any For Those in Peril on a Ski Mike Cudahy 73 Inside Front Cover/ Half Title: Melbreak and means, electronic or mechanical, in- Fisherfield Adventure Robin Hildrew 78 Buttermere. Photo - Tony Simpkins cluding photocopy, recording, or any The Final Countdown Paula Carter 84 Title Page: Brocken Spectre Photo - John information storage and retrieval sys- Argentinian Andes Mark Gear 88 Holden tem, without permission in writing Simien Mountans of Ethiopia John Moore 96 from the copyright holder. -
Bangor University DOCTOR of PHILOSOPHY the Motives For
Bangor University DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY The motives for participation in high-risk sport Barlow, Matthew Award date: 2012 Awarding institution: Bangor University Link to publication General rights Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal ? Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. Download date: 28. Sep. 2021 The motives for participation in high-risk sport by Matthew Barlow Thesis submitted to Bangor University in fulfilment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy at the School of Sport, Health, and Exercise Sciences, Bangor University. March 2012 i DECLARATION This work has not previously been accepted in substance for any degree and is not being currently submitted in candidature for any degree. Signed . (candidate) Date . STATEMENT 1 This thesis is the result of my own investigation, except where otherwise stated. Other sources are explicitly acknowledged in the references. Signed . (candidate) Date . STATEMENT 2 I hereby give consent for my thesis, if accepted, to be available for photocopying and for inter-library loan, and for the title and summary to be made available to outside organisations. -
Irish Mountain Log Issue 91
No 91 Autumn 2009 ISSN 0790 8008 €3.20 ( £2.20) THE MAGAZIINE FOR WALKERS AND CLIIMBERS IIN IIRELAND www.mountaineering.ie membership Gramang Bal, Himal Pradesh, objective of IMC summer expedition 2009. Photo: Sé O’Hanlon. Onwards and upwards Plans to recruit a new Chief Officer ongoing “Change will not come if we wait for some organisation. However, it continues to be As we start our new membership year, other person or some other time.” a time of great change in Mountaineering we are looking forward to the Autumn Ireland and, by the time you receive this Gathering in Dingle, Co Kerry, when we s clubs and individuals start issue of the Mountain Log, we will be hope that as many members as possible to make their way back onto engaged in trying again to recruit a new will be present to discuss the changes in Athe hills and crags after a Chief Officer for the organisation, a crucial the organisation and to enjoy the craic. summer possibly spent further afield, post as we move forward. The Board we on the Board have to take stock would like to acknowledge the excellent of where Mountaineering Ireland is work of the acting Chief Officer, Pat as an organisation and, more Dignam, and of all the staff members, importantly, of where it is going as north and south, who have shown we head into a new membership year professionalism and commitment beyond Ruairi Ó Conchúir for the National Governing Body for the call of duty in the past few months. Chairperson Mountaineering Ireland hillwalking, climbing and We also welcome Joe Dowdall of Co mountaineering in Ireland. -
Winter 2018 (Pdf)
Irish Mountaineering Club Winter 2018 Double Irish Mountaineering Club Winter 2018 IrishCumann Mountaineering Sléibhteoireachta Clubna hÉireann Geimhreadh Winter 2018 2018 CONTENTS CONTENTS 5. Learning the Ropes: Andy Minshull 8. Ascent of the Kuffner Arête: Aidan Roe 12. Lake District Meet: David Craig 14: Peak District Meet: Jon Smith 16: Dingle Meet: Andy Minshull 19: Barry O'Flynn Obituary: Dónal Ó Murchú 20: Breaking Back: Harry McGee 25: Birds of a Feather: Gerry Moss 30: Paul Donnelly Obituary: Michael Scott 32: Brendan Walsh Obituary: David Walsh 34: Book Reviews: David Craig 36: Waiting for the Sun to Shine: Christy Rice COVER PHOTOGRAPH: Andy Minshull during the Dalkey Quarry 40 marathon Pic: Ian Lawler Fáilte 3 Next month, the Irish Mountaineering Club will celebrate its 70th anniversary. It was founded by Joss Lynam and Bill Perrott in December 1948. Leafing through past journals, you are struck by the rich heritage of our club and its global reach. It set standards for mountain climbing in Ireland: and at a time when it long-distance travel was difficult, IMC members set off on far-flung expeditions to the Alps, the Himalayas, Africa South America and the Southern Alps. Back in 1954, Peter Kenny said Spillikin Ridge would be a “route for supermen only”. Yet he and Frank Winder led the first ascent. in the late 1950s Brighid Hardiman referred to a timeless challenge when climbing in Connemara: “Mweelrea was climbed by some of the group on a day when three of us did Carrot Ridge, its 900 feet of Diff standard raised to XS by the midges which accompanied us all the way., “We had to climb in bright hot sunlight with sleeves rolled down and Anorak hoods up to try and ward off the nightmare swarm that beat against us like rain. -
October 2009
An Óige Hillwalkers Club October 2009 http://www.hillwalkersclub.com/ Some of the intrepid hikers on Mark Campion's adventure in the French Pyrenees, August 2009. Photo: Murielle Guillauton In this edition • October Hike Programme 2 • Further Afield: Hut to Hut in the Pyrenees 3-7 • Dates for your Diary / AGM 2009 / Membership 7 • Pub Quiz / Events / Committee 2008-2009 8 • October Bank Holiday Weekend 2009 9 • Christmas Party 2009 10 • Membership Application Form 2009-2010 11 • Proposed Amendments to Club Constitution 12-13 THE HILLWALKER The Hillwalker ● October 2009 1 HIKE PROGRAMME 1 November 2009 October 2009 ---Glendalough Circuit Introductory Hillwalkers Hike MEET: Burgh Quay Leader: Deirdre Muldowney DEPART: Sundays at 10.00 am 2nd pick-up & return drop-off points: Bus TRANSPORT: Private Bus stop before the roundabout at Loughlinstown. COST: €12.00 (unless stated otherwise) Route: Upper Lake Carpark, Glendalough * Spink * Lugduff * Spot Height 702m * Lough Firrib *- Turlough Hill * Camaderry Mtn * 2nd pick-up point : The bus picks up walkers Glendasan * Glendalough Visitors Carpark. who are already at the designated point. It won’t Distance: 18km Ascent: 950m be waiting and places cannot be guaranteed as the bus may be full at Burgh Quay. Maps: OS 56, Harvey 2nd drop-off point : Where indicated in the programme below, the bus will drop off hikers at the 2 nd pick-up point on the return journey, GENERAL HIKE NOTES unless circumstances dictate otherwise. We PARTICIPATION Mountaineering is an activity regret that this is not possible on all routes. with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks. -
Climbers' Guidebooks 551
2 INDEX GENERAL BOOKS: 1- 530 FICTION: 531 - 542 CAVING: 543 - 547 SKIING: 548 - 550 GUIDEBOOKS (ENGLISH LANGUAGE): 551 - 823 GUIDEBOOKS (FOREIGN LANGUAGE): 824 - 855 WALKING/TREKKING GUIDES: 856 - 866 FOREIGN LANGUAGE BOOKS: 867 - 877 JOURNALS 878 - 947 MAGAZINES: 948 - 964 PHOTOGRAPHS: 965 - 967 1. Abraham, A.P: BEAUTIFUL LAKELAND: Abraham, Keswick; 1920: (2nd) edition. Hardback, 52 pages, 32 monogravure plates (including one on front cover) by G.P Abraham of Keswick, 28.5cm. Head of spine lightly bumped with a 1cm joint split reglued (darkened) at head and base, corner tips also reglued; foxing and browning mainly confined to outer page-edges and endpapers, overall a VG presentable copy. General commentary on the Lake District; enhanced with fine Abraham photographs of the period: £10.00 2. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1937: 4th edition. Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21 outline drawings, 17.5cm. Complete, but pages 49-64 bound out of sequence. Previous owner’s bookplate inside front board; faint water stain lower corner of frontispiece and a slight touch of wrinkling in vicinity; surface glaze dull (8x8cm) on lower rear corner of rear board; slight foxing top outer edge of pages; but otherwise a Near Fine very clean copy in (dust wrapper condition - spine age- darkened, slightly rubbed and tiny loss at base) d/w now protected in a loose plastic sleeve. Primarily a guidebook but also useful for the history of early British climbing: £25.00 3. Abraham, G.D: BRITISH MOUNTAIN CLIMBS: Mills & Boon; 1945 5th edition: Pages xvi + 448, 18 plates, 21outline drawings, 18cm. -
Tom Povey Is Let Loose in Morocco
47630_COVER 11/1/04 12:44 PM Page 1 UK £2.50 Winter 2004 www.thebmc.co.uk Style & Ethics Aron Ralston Interview Morocco Trek Winter Skills Easyice Escape World Youths contents features 14: Style Council Niall Grimes takes a look at the big issues of ethics and style. 22: Road Atlas Tom Povey is let loose in Morocco. 26: Cabin Fever Smooth sailing to your walking destinations. 30: Loft Conversion Do we really need a new European Standard for sleeping bags? Mark Taylor thinks not. 32: Hand Jam The Aron Ralston interview. Best sharpen your penknife! Plus: WIN the book. 34: Plastic Panic Behind the scenes at the World Youths. 38: Basics 4: The Fridge Steve Long's back, this time with winter advice for climbers. 41: Walk this Way Mal Creasey has some winter walking tips. 44: Easyice Get stuck into some Euro ice this season. 48: Expeditions 2004 A roundup of this year's adventures. regulars 3: The Issue 6: News 10: Access News 11: Frontline 54: Events 62: Last Thoughts special offers 12: Stuff It's your lucky day - we've got another four more competitions for you to enter in Stuff. 36: The Outdoors Show / Climb 05 2 for 1 readers ticket offer. 36 3 447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3 008/11/20048/11/2004 110:39:520:39:52 36 foreword WELCOME TO ISSUE 36 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to: Negotiate access improvements and pro- mote cliff and mountain conservation. -
Book Reviews 1990 Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman
Book Reviews 199() COMPILED BY GEOFFREY TEMPLEMAN Elusive Summits Victor Saunders Hodder & Stoughton, 1990, pp191, £14·95 This is very much a book of our time and a model of its genre. It tells of four lightweight, alpine-style expeditions to the Karakoram. All the routes described were of the highest standard of difficulty and epics abound. So far, no big deal; lots ofyoung mountaineers have been going to the greater ranges on exactly this sort of expedition during the last decade. What raises this book head and shoulders above the run-of-the-mill is that Victor Saunders is not only a hard climber but an unusually percipient and humorous writer. This is a happy and rare combination of talents which I shall allude to later. In this, his first book, Saunders has got most things right. Each expedition gets about 50 pages. This ensures thatthe narrative is concentrated and itavoids the inescapable padding of 'the expedition book'. Saunders is commendably frank - bearing in mind that the totally honest autobiography has yet to be written. He has that knack, brought to an art form by Tom Patey, of exposing, almost caricaturing, his friends' quirks. As with Patey, it is done with disarming humour and kindliness. With a sophisticated, and often self-deprecating, sense of humour he reveals the absurd and the illogical in many expedition situations and attitudes. This is delightful leavening. His writing is crisp, even staccato, and he frequently surprises with a sudden oblique view of a scene. For instance, when a falling stone knocks a tooth out, he climbs down 'trailing blood, spit and self-pity'. -
Limits Re-Defining Return to Thehimalaya Mick Fowler Andvictor Saunders Reunited Legends
| £4.95 ISSUE 140 SEP/OCT 17 | Re-defining Limits THE FULL STORY OF BRITAIN’S HARDEST ROUTE Irish Adventure James McHaffie Risky Business Legends Reunited Owey Island’s On the rewards Alex Honnold and the tricky Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders trad climbing paradise of a big bold lead public face of soloing return to the Himalaya CHIMERA THE CHIMERA IS THE PINNACLE OF MODERN CLIMBING SHOE DESIGN AND INNOVATION. With its vacuum like upper lacing system, TPS insert and 8 panel upper, this shoe is built for climbers tackling the most demanding routes and boulders. WWW.SCARPA.CO.UK 2 | Climb Chimera Ad_FEB 2017_CLIMB.indd 1 27/03/2017 16:30 EDITOR’S NOTE Changing Times When Shauna Coxsey pulled on for her fourth late 70s, High and On the Edge in the 80s and attempt at the last problem in the finals of the 90s through to Climb Magazine today. As one Mumbai Bouldering World Cup one minute of the editors of those publications - alongside remained on the clock. In previous years, as long David Pickford, Gill Kent and Neil Pearsons, and as a competitor had started their last attempt Geoff Birtles - I have had the privilege to work when the countdown timer read zero, they could with some of the most talented people in the continue for as long as they were able to hold on. climbing community. Whilst there is inevitably Now a new rule change meant a strict time limit a sadness that I won’t be able to turn the pages of attempts – once four minutes were up, it was of a freshly printed copy of our latest edition, I game over. -
Summer 2016 (Pdf)
Irish Mountaineering Club Newsletter Summer 201 6 Welcome to the Summer 2016IMC Newsletter It's been another great year for the New Member's Programme. Club membership took a significant dip in the new year but since then we have had over 80 new members sign up. Within these pages you can find perspectives from both sides of the programme, from both newcomer & mentor, as well as impressions of the Lake District from two of our new members who attended the June meet there, together with a selection of photos from the well attended Glendalough Weekend. Again, kudos to Training Officer Jon for organising such a great programme. Members have been busy on a number of climbing trips away to various destinations including Spain, Norway and the Alps reported within, as well as as Sinead, Cian & Vanessa heading off with Andy for some big wall adventures in Yosemite (featured in the next newsletter). Nearer to home, members have managed to tease another 2 new routes out of Dalkey Quarry. Kevin Byrne, Sean Barrett, Colin Keogh and Antoinette Gough putting up "GR20" in the East Valley and Jon McCarty, Niamh McCarty, Keith O'Brien squeezing in "Circumcision" in the West. Mention must also be made of Dave Keogh who, not content with seemingly flying up to Scotland every other weekend over the winter (see his blog article on the IMC website), is now completing impressive ticks in the Alps including the Walker Spur. We hope to have more details on that later in the year. Finally, please keep the articles and trips reports coming in, we are always looking for content for both the newsletter and the blog. -
188 the AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1992 K&Hang. a 1Zmember Team from Calcutta Climbed Kokthang
188 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1992 K&hang. A 1Zmember team from Calcutta climbed Kokthang (6147 meters, 20,167 feet) via the northeast face from Camp II at 5425 meters. On May 12, Dipak Kumar Bose, Parijat Chowdhury and Sherpas Kami, Lhakpa Tsering and Tharchen Tsering reached the summit. The leader was Amulya Sen. KAMAL K. GUHA, Editor, Himavanta, India Nepal Nepalese Peak Fees. Climbers are concerned with a sizeable increase in the fees that the Nepalese government charges for permission to climb its peaks. On September 20, the Ministry of Tourism announced that fees were being raised for the start of the spring 1992 season “in consideration of environmental conser- vation.” A ministry official said that this means the government wants fewer climbers and their rubbish on Everest and the other popular 8000-meter peaks. He cited the view of Sir Edmund Hillary that Everest should be closed to all mountaineers for several years to give the mountain time to cleanse itself. The Nepalese authorities said they did not want to take such drastic action, but they would like to encourage climbers to go to peaks below 8000 meters, for which the fee increase is less extreme. He also pointed out that Nepal had devalued its currency by about 20% in July and the new rates were partly designed to make up for this. (The old rates had been fixed in Nepalese rupees.) A member of a Spanish team returning from Pumori and Lhotse observed that the new fee of $8000 for Lhotse alone is equal to half of their total budget for this autumn’s climb. -
Irish Mountain Log Issue 90
No 90 Summer 2009 ISSN 0790 8008 €3.20 ( £2.20) THE MAGAZINE FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS IN IRELAND www.mountaineering.ie membership Glenbeigh horseshoe, McGillycuddy’s Reeks, Co Kerry, in mid-winter dawn light. Photo: John Treacy (Tralee Mountaineering Club). Organisational development It’s a time of continuing growth for Mountaineering Ireland elcome to the summer The Board will continue to do all in its assessments, and has also resulted in the edition of the Irish Mountain power to support the work of the Irish development of a Volunteer Training WLog, Mountaineering Mountain Rescue Teams north and south. Officer network at club level. All clubs are Ireland’s flagship publication. I would encouraged to participate in this network. like to begin by thanking the Another new position is that of Talent ID volunteers who, year in, year out, help and Coaching Development Officer which As our membership base continues to to publish this wonderful magazine, has been funded by Sport NI. This officer grow, all members are encouraged to telling your stories of adventure and will focus on the identification of talented become actively involved with friendship in the hills and mountains young climbers across Ireland and will Mountaineering Ireland. The Board and of Ireland and the rest of the world. create opportunities for them to develop staff look forward to seeing as many members as possible at this year’s The membership base of Mountaineering their skills while developing resources and Autumn Gathering in Dingle, Co Kerry, Ireland continues to grow, as does the delivering workshops on coaching skills where Cumann Sléibhteóireachta Chorca overall participation in our sport.