BMC Annual Report.Indd 1

�� BMC annual report.indd 1

COMPETITIONS CLIMBING WALLS CLUBS & HUTS ACCESS & CONSERVATION EQUIPMENT ADVICE GUIDE BOOKS MEMBER DISCOUNTS SAFETY & SKILLS INSURANCE

AREA REPORTS AREA

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE MESSAGE PRESIDENT’S PRESIDENT’S

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ANNUAL ANNUAL

REPORT

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LUB & ASSOCIATE MEMBERS ASSOCIATE & LUB

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F FINANCE REPORT FINANCE

INANCE REPORT INANCE

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M MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION MEMBERSHIP

EMBERSHIP INFORMATION EMBERSHIP

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S SPECIALIST REPORTS SPECIALIST

PECIALIST REPORTS PECIALIST

» �� 1/3/10 16:17:01 Contents

President’s Message 4 BMC Participation Statement National Council Summary 5 The BMC recognises that climbing, hill walking, and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these Membership Information 6 activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Finance Report 7

Specialist Reports 8 Access, Conservation & Environment Group

Land Management Group

Access & Conservation Trust

Climbing Walls

Competition Climbing

Equity

Guidebooks

Heritage

Huts

International

Technical

Training & Youth

Child Safeguarding

Area Reports 15 Lake District London & South East

Midlands

North East

North West

Peak District

South West & Southern

Yorkshire

Wales/Cymru

Other Reports 19 British Association of Mountain Guides Central Council of Physical Recreation

Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Mountaineering Ireland

Mountain Leader Training England

Mountain Leader Training

Mountain Rescue Council

Plas y Brenin & Mountain Training Trust Where you see this logo the BMC has used paper from recycled or sustainable sources. Union Internationale des Associations d’Alpinisme

Cocoon silk 100% FSC recycled Club & Associate Members 22 (100% recycled pulp from post-consumer waste, process chlorine free)

2 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 2 1/3/10 16:17:16 The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. Through a democratic representative structure the BMC will: • Negotiate access improvements and promote cliff and mountain conservation. • Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment. • Support events and specialist programmes including youth and excellence. • Provide services and information for members.

Elected Offi cers Patrons Auditors • President Dr Charles Clarke (to 25 April 09) • Alan Blackshaw OBE • FFT Chartered Accountants Rab Carrington (from 25 April 09) • Sir Chris Bonington CBE • Vice President Rab Carrington (to 25 April 09) • Lord Chorley Honorary Legal Advisors Audrey Seguy (from 25 April 09) • Ian McNaught-Davis • Paul Debney • Vice President Pat Littlejohn OBE • Stephen Porteus • Vice President Rehan Siddiqui Honorary Members • Anthony Rich • Hon Treasurer David Lanceley • Gordon Adshead • Martin Wragg • Les Ainsworth Executive Committee • Dave Bishop Honorary Medical Advisors All Elected Offi cers plus • Henry Folkard • Dr Charles Clarke • Dave Turnbull (BMC CEO) • Dave Gregory • Dr David Hillebrandt • Lyndon Gill (National Council Representative) • Vin Machin • Dr Jim Milledge • Mike Pinder (National Council Representative) • Neville McMillan • Scott Titt (National Council Representative) • Geoff Milburn Headquarters • Michael Hunt (Advisor) • Bob Moulton The Old Church • Robert Pettigrew 177-179 Burton Road • Mike Ratty Manchester M20 2BB • George Steele Tel: 0161 445 6111 • John Willson Fax: 0161 445 4500 • Ken Wilson offi [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk

Equal Opportunities Statement The BMC encourages its members to adopt a positive approach to equal opportunities and the elimination of discrimination. The BMC values the support of all sections of the mountaineering community and welcomes the opportunity to assist all groups in its work to promote the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers.

The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) has over 70,000 members and exists to promote the interests and protect the freedoms of climbers, hill walkers, and mountaineers, including ski mountaineers. It is a company limited by guarantee (no 2874177) without a share capital. The BMC was formed in 1944 and is a democratic representative body controlled by a National Council made up of locally elected Area Representatives and nationally Elected Ofﬁ cers. The BMC is a National Governing Body of sport recognised by Government and the different Sports Councils in the United Kingdom. The BMC is grant supported by Sport England.

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BMC annual report.indd 3 1/3/10 16:17:27 President’s Message

010 ha s started as 2009 left off; freezing cold will be launched and looking at early art work will and with snow on the ground. Great for us receive high acclaim. The British Mountain Maps 2Hill Walkers and Climbers but little cheer for series, published by Harvey’s with the blessing of Gordon Brown and the rest of the UK. the BMC have rolled out its Knoydart, Kintail and 2009 has been a good year from a sporting point Glen Affric map. These maps, for those who haven’t of view, England Cricket team won the Ashes, Andy seen them, were the brain child of former President Murray was seeded #2, Jenson Button won F1 and Mark Vallance. They work on a 1:40,000 scale and Jessica Ennis from Sheffield was World Champion are completely waterproof and tear resistant. A in the Heptathlon. must for all keen walkers. Also this year we saw the In our world of mountaineering we also had our publication by Steve Long of Mynydda, the Welsh very notable achievements. Nick Bullock and Andy Hill Walking book. Finally, it would be wrong not to Houseman’s excellent Alpine ascent of the North mention that Grimer picked up the “Grand Prize” at Face of Chang Himal (6802m) was an ascent which Banff for his Biography of Jerry Moffatt, Revelations. epitomised difficulty and style at altitude. At the For our members we have been trying new ways other end of the spectrum, Steve McClure’s ascent to improve communications. We have set up the of Hubble (8c+) on Ravens Tor proved how “ahead Club Committee whose role is to look at problems of his time” Ben Moon was when he made the first which are unique to Clubs and club members. To ascent in 1990 to produce the World’s hardest route. improve access to information for our members In the world of the BMC, 2009 has proved to be and volunteers we have spent time and money a year without drama or incident. The work of the developing the new BMC Community Site. This office has continued in its normal efficient way. I will allow more local Area news to be sent out and will try and recap the year by looking at the major updated faster and more accurately. events which have been achieved by our Specialist To ensure that the BMC remains truly Committees. More detailed information about their international, we have hosted a very successful activities can be read further on in this report; I International Winter Meet with 80 participants Leading Award will be launched early this Year. We only hope I don’t get too much earache for stealing arriving from 28 different countries. Furthering also put on 17 FUNdamentals Workshops intended to their thunder. British Mountaineering in the Greater ranges, the improve the coaching of good climbing movement. The item which has made me feel proudest is BMC has initiated its own Grant Award scheme, this Moving from the young to the old, we should the growth in membership of the BMC. In the last because UK Sport has withdrawn their funding. This spare a moment to think about what will happen quarter our membership has passed the 70,000 year 10 Expeditions benefited from this scheme. to all of our memorabilia when we pass on. mark, a year on year growth of 5%. This is a great In competitions, the most important event of the The Mountain Heritage Trust looks after all of reminder that a lot of what the BMC does is very year was Debbie and Tony Powell stepping down Mountaineering archive and artefact collections. important and relevant to those whose life is Hill as managers of the Junior Team. They have both This year the MHT received grants to archive the Walking and Climbing. So a very big thank you to given so much to the Team and they will be a hard Chris Bonington collection which will continue the Membership Services Team who look after all of our act to follow. I am sure everyone would like to join good work it has already done for many of our members so well. All we have to do now is convince with me in thanking them for their many years of mountaineering pioneers. To bring greater stability the other 150,000 who walk and climb that they too unstinting hard work. On a more positive note, we to this volunteer organisation, the MHT has been should join the BMC! have to thank the Committee for producing the developing links with the University of Cumbria A key part of the BMC work is Access & new competitions newsletter “Psyched!” This has which is a very exciting development. Conservation. Here we have moved ahead quite resulted from the hard work of Iain McKenzie and When I started writing this piece, I was significantly. We have recruited the redoubtable Natalie Berry and will keep all up to date with the concerned that I had nothing to say. The screen Elfyn Jones to strengthen the Access Team as goings on, the successes, the improvements which now tells me I am on my third page with a word Welsh Officer. Apart from the obvious access issues are happening in our Teams. On the competition count of over 1,000 (twice what I was supposed he also has a special responsibility for footpaths front, Ratho hosted a very successful European to write). This goes to prove that even though one in England and Wales. In November of 2009 Youth Series event and Dave Barrans took a very feels that “not much” is happening at the BMC Government gave Royal Assent to the Marine Bill. creditable third place in the Bouldering World many things are still going on. Our Access team pressed very hard to ensure that Championships. So, from the President, many thanks to all of our the Act was of value to our members and have The Training & Youth Committee has continued Volunteers, Officers and Members for the sterling achieved a result which gives us long term access to its good work for youth and training. Nick Colton work they do for the BMC. Now it’s time to get out coastal paths and crags. The Welsh Coastal Path Act continues to give excellent advice to Clubs about into the Hills and enjoy ourselves. will be completed by 2012. Finally, after many, many the rules & regulations of having youth members. Thank you, years of negotiation, Harrison’s Rocks, Southern This year we have seen the affiliation of specific Sandstone is now owned by the BMC. Many thanks climbing wall based “Youth Clubs” to the BMC. to all of you down there who have worked so hard We hope this will be an ongoing process to involve to achieve this. young keen climbers with development from indoor When it comes to Guide Book writing, there climbing to outdoors and also provide a stepping are none better than our very own Niall Grimes stone to normal Club activities. The Youth Climbing (aka Grimer). In November, the re-edited version Series continues to attract a great following and Rab Carrington of The Roaches was published to rave reviews. In we also hosted the annual “Student Safety & Good early spring 2010, the much awaited Froggatt Guide Practice” Seminar. For Training, the Climbing Wall President

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BMC annual report.indd 4 1/3/10 16:17:38 Staff Team CEO – Dave Turnbull Deputy CEO – Nick Colton Financial Controller – Alan Brown Web & Summit – Alex Messenger Marketing Manager – Andy Gowland Information Coordinator – Tony Ryan Press & PR – Tina Gardner (PT) Access & Conservation – Cath Flitcroft, Guy Keating, Elfyn Jones (Wales) Competitions & Climbing Walls – Rob Adie Guidebooks – Niall Grimes Technical – Dan Middleton (PT) Training (BMC/MLTE) – Jon Garside Volunteers – Martin Kocsis Projects & Events – Kate Anwyl (PT), Rebecca Ellwood, Becky McGovern IT & Database – Paul D’Ambra Finance Assistant – Yas Prabaharan, Suzanne Jones (maternity cover for Yas BMC Ofﬁce Prabaharan)

Membership Services Team Lynda Buckley (Manager) Breakdown of 27 staff Arun Patel Jim Krawiecki Full time staff 22 Simon Manns Ray Perry (PT) Part time staff 5 Hannah Skeldon Clonagh Delaﬁeld (PT) (PT = Part Time) National Council Summary by Dave Turnbull, CEO

National Council met five times in 2009 with the meetings taking place National Council Members in Cumbria, Derbyshire, Dorset and North Wales (two). Several new Members Jan-April 09 April-Dec 09 members - Neil Foster (Peak), Charles Gameson (Midlands) and Christian President Charles Clarke Rab Carrington Lund (London) - attended National Council for the first time in 2009. Vice President Rab Carrington Audrey Seguy Mark Reeves (Cymru / Wales, North) and Mike Pinder (Peak) stepped Vice President Rehan Siddiqui Rehan Siddiqui down from the Council during the year. Vice President Pat Littlejohn Pat Littlejohn Significant issues discussed and agreed during the course of the year Treasurer David Lanceley David Lanceley included the following: Chief Executive Dave Turnbull Dave Turnbull • Support for clubs. National Council agreed to establish a Clubs Deputy CEO Nick Colton Nick Colton Committee and to conduct a consultation exercise on a possible Lakes Polly Sullivan, Tom Ripley Polly Sullivan, Steve Scott new form of club membership. Terms of Reference and operating North West Lyndon Gill, Conor Doherty Lyndon Gill, Conor Doherty procedures for the new Committee were subsequently drawn up and London & South East Christian Lund Christian Lund, Vic Odell agreed. The Committee held its inaugural meeting on 26 October. South West Scott Titt Scott Titt • Access & Conservation work in Wales. A proposal was drawn up by Midlands Fiona Devine, Iain McKenzie Fiona Devine, Charles Gameson BMC Cymru / Wales, the BMC Access, Conservation & Environment North East Alan Hinkes Alan Hinkes Committee and senior BMC officials to establish an A&C (Wales) Officer Peak District Mike Pinder, Chris Moor Chris Moor, Neil Foster position. National Council agreed to go ahead with this in June and an Wales/Cymru Mike Raine, Mark Reeves Mike Raine, Ray Wood appointment was made on 21 September. Yorkshire Deirdre Collier, Mick Johnson Deirdre Collier, Mick Johnson • Climbing as an Olympic Sport. The question of whether or not the BMC should formally support the prospect of climbing becoming Observers an Olympic sport was put out to the Areas for consultation and was Plas y Brenin Martin Doyle discussed by National Council on several occasions. The September Mountain Leader Training England Andy Say meeting unanimously agreed to support the idea of climbing becoming Mountain Leader Training Wales TBC an Olympic sport. Technical Committee Oliver Milling • Coaching in climbing and mountaineering. The possible development Finance Committee Brian Grifﬁths / Graham Richmond of a coaching award was discussed in light of the National Source Training & Youth Committee Ian Fenton Group report and a further review conducted by a Coaching Review Competitions Committee Iain McKenzie Group chaired by BMC Patron Alan Blackshaw. National Council Climbing Walls Committee Nick Bond eventually agreed to support a coaching award covering indoor Huts Group Iain McCallum climbing, sport climbing and bouldering. Access, Conservation & Bill Renshaw • The BMC’s work for hill walkers. National Council also began a Environment Group discussion about the BMC’s work and services for hill walkers and Guidebook Committee Ian Carr how this work could be developed given the proportion of hill walkers International Committee Lindsay Grifﬁn within the BMC’s membership. Clubs Committee John Farrow Wales/Cymru South Stuart Llewellyn

BMC Annual Report 2009 5

BMC annual report.indd 5 1/3/10 16:17:50 Membership Information nce again in 2009 there was positive year end. This is 3558 more than in 2008. Total The total number of club members who have now growth in individual membership. membership was made up of 46,852 individual taken advantage of the reduced rate and upgraded O At year end we had 46,852 individual members and 24,260 club members split between to full individual membership was down slightly at members, an increase of 5565. BMC had 71,112 238 clubs and 57 student clubs, a total of 295 1,641. Insurance held it’s own during the year and combined individual and club members at clubs. This is a decrease of 12 clubs for the year. we sold 25,180 policies.

BMC Service Charter • Respond to all orders for services on the day • Support the BMC’s policy of encouraging a The BMC is a busy organisation with a large received and dispatch within two working days. positive approach to equal opportunities and workload and a focused staff team. This team • Answer the telephone within three (and no more ensure that all visitors to the BMC office are provides membership services and specialist than five) rings and where the relevant member of greeted promptly and dealt with politely and work and co-ordination with volunteers on staff is not available offer assistance or voice mail. efficiently. the various development programmes. The • Respond to all other correspondence - using • Treat all database information in strict BMC staff team is committed to working to the plain English - as promptly as possible (if a accordance with the Data Protection Act. highest standards and efficiency and welcomes lengthy or complex reply is required this will be • Meet payments and issue invoices promptly in comments on the service provided. The BMC staff acknowledged within five working days if it is accordance with agreed payment terms with a team undertakes to: not possible to respond in full within ten days). target to pay within 30 days.

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BMC annual report.indd 6 1/3/10 16:18:00 Finance Report Summary of Income 2009 (£2,039k) Specialist Programme David Lanceley, Honorary Treasurer Income £39k 2009 was another successful financial year for the BMC. A number Other income of factors combined to turn our initial forecast surplus of £14K into £44k an actual surplus of some £1 29K. The income side was significantly increased by a late season surge in insurance sales and associated subscription income and overall better than anticipated insurance Travel sales. We understand that while many insurance providers are seeing Insurance £423k a reduction in sales we are not which would appear to confirm that we are providing competitively priced policies packaged in a way that is attractive to the market. Continued careful control and monitoring of costs without allowing services to members to suffer Publications has also contributed to the increased surplus. In particular printing £56k and stationary costs have been reduced year-on-year, due in part to increased use of online methods of marketing, communication etc. Our Corporation Tax bill is also reduced due to the unforeseen recovery Grants and donations £281k of tax previously paid on charitable contributions. Subscriptions £1,196k Another year of surplus has meant that our cash reserves have also increased, particularly as the surplus only became apparent late in the financial year too late to adjust our operational budgets. The security of these reserves is an ongoing concern that we have addressed by spreading them across a number of generally UK Government-backed Summary of Expenditure 2009 (£1,923k) financial institutions. Income from cash reserves is obviously much Office costs reduced compared to previous years in this period of low interest £426k rates. The level of the reserves, although more than we reasonably require to guarantee continuity of services to members in the event some unforeseen financial crisis, is not considered to be excessive and Personnel £841k (after the operational reserve is allowed) is equivalent to around £18 per member. The additional reserves allow us to intervene in situations AGM and where a modest financial input can have a big effect; the recent Committees £21k purchase of Wilton Quarry is a good example. We are always prepared to consider committing BMC funds to worthy projects and welcome proposals in this regard. Looking forward we are again forecasting a small surplus for the Specialist Programmes £251k 2010 & 2011 financial years with no increase in subscription levels for either Club or Individual members. Sport England funding is secure for the next few years but bank deposit income will be minimal. We Summit may see some reduction in club members subs income but maybe not £102k and individual subs income continues to rise. We always need to keep Personal Accident and in mind that we operate off a high fixed-cost base but our generally Civil Liability Insurance £282k cautious financial policy is in any case driven by this. Overall the immediate future would appear to hold few financial surprises. My thanks to Alan and Yas for another year of effort and to the Finance Committee which continues to provide invaluable support. Net cost of Specialist Programmes after allocation of overheads, grant income and other income 2009 (£666k)

Finance Committee at 31/12/09 • Graham Richmond (Chair) • Rehan Siddiqui • David Lanceley (Hon. (Vice-President) - Volunteer Support Access & Treasurer) Paper member & Communications Conservation • Audrey Seguy • Gordon Adshead 21% 21% (Vice President) - • Vic Odell Paper member • Mike Watson • Deidre Collier • Tim Rafﬂe (Nat. Council Rep.) Facilities • Iain Dickinson • Polly Sheasby (Nat. Council Rep.) (Walls, • Andy Say National & International • Fiona Devine Harrison’s & representation • Brian Grifﬁths (Nat. Council Rep.) Huts) • Rab Carrington (President) • Dave Turnbull (CEO) 9% 5% - Paper member • Alan Brown (FC) Heritage Youth & Equity 5% How staff and overhead costs are spread 6% Person Year Staff % Alloc % Membership services 3.7 14% 23% Technical Guidebooks Trading activities 3.7 15% 29% 4% 8% Headquarters 7.0 27% 0% Safety & Training Competitions External Recovery 0.2 1% 2% 6% 10% Expeditions 3% Specialist Programmes 10.9 43% 46% Performance Total 25.4 100% 100% 2% BMC Annual Report 2009 7

BMC annual report.indd 7 3/3/10 09:09:24 Specialist Reports Access, Conservation & Environment Group Improving access and conserving the cliff and mountain environment.

he BMC access team had a busy and Nesting Restrictions were agreed once again quarry and securing legal rights to access quarries productive year lobbying central and local in 2009, publicity posters were produced and 2, 3 and 4. Other work included completing the TGovernment on a wide range of issues and restrictions were publicised in Summit and on landscaping work at the ever popular Craig y working on the ground with local volunteers and the new BMC website. The BMC continues to Longridge, and woodland management work at access authorities to help manage access to our work closely with conservation interests across Craig Bwlch y Moch. mountain, fells and crags. England and Wales to set up and manage seasonal In Horseshoe Quarry, we rebolted a number of The BMC’s Access, Conservation and Environment access restrictions and is extremely grateful for the routes and equipped the lower-offs with innovative work is now coordinated by three full time BMC goodwill and co-operation of all involved. Access to ‘Rams Head’ units (which do not require a leader officers, including the new post of BMC Access Officer information on restrictions has also been improved, to untie before descending), and at Aldery Cliff we for Wales. the Regional Access Database (RAD) on the BMC addressed problems caused by inappropriate use In 2009, the BMC policy work centred on ensuring website now has the definitive information on during the summer. the Marine and Coastal Access Bill was passed through access restrictions and is available online. At Craig Pen Trwyn the North Wales Bolt Fund the House of Commons and House of Lords smoothly Numerous local and regional projects have been volunteers have almost completed a project to and quickly. Working with a number of leading MPs undertaken during the year including: replace the aging lower-offs which the BMC has and Peers, the BMC laid down several amendments • A proposal to LDNPA to reduce the number of responsibility for. to the Coastal Access Clauses of the Bill and produced agreed nesting restrictions for Common Raven. And finally, the BMC’s acquisition of Harrison’s a series of briefing papers for MPs and Peers during • Producing guidance and conservation advice with Rocks has been completed and we look forward the Committee and Report stages of the Bill. The BMC Sussex Wildlife Trust for climbing in Eridge Green to progressing site and woodland management also attended several meetings with Natural England Nature Reserve. initiatives here. and other key stakeholders on the methodology and • Access liaison work in the Midlands at Pocketgate / legislative process behind increasing coastal access in Hangingstone Quarries, the Brand, Markfield Quarry, ACEG Committee England. Over the next year, Natural England will begin Charnwood Quarry, Pontesford Rocks. • Bill Renshaw (Chair) overseeing the implementation of the new access • Funding tree removal at Back Bowden Doors and • Cath Flitcroft (Secretary/BMC staff) rights on the ground, liaising with landowners and Kyloe Crag. • Les Ainsworth consulting with the BMC on the alignment of the new • Erosion control work at Bowden/Back Bowden. • Dave Bishop • Hebe Carus (MCofS Representative) route and associated margin of land. • Access liaison work at Houghton, Witches Quarry, • Mike Dagley In Wales, the BMC continues to be an active Trowbarrow, Stanworth, Crompton Moor. • Henry Folkard participant in coastal access stakeholder meetings. • Support for the successful RSPB/National Trust bid • Charles Gameson We are lobbying the Welsh Assembly Government to to manage the Eastern Moors inc. Froggatt, Curbar • Steve Marriott develop framework powers and a statutory approach and Baslow. • Ian McMorrin to wider coastal access as soon as possible, so they • A collaborative project with the Forestry • Dick Peart can be delivered by the current Welsh Government Commission to remove trees at Black Rocks. • Guy Keating (BMC staff) alongside the scheme in England. • Collaboration with PDNPA and Lydgate Pistols and • Elfyn Jones (BMC staff) The key to the success of the BMC’s access and Rifle Club to improve access at Shooters Nab. The President and CEO of the BMC are ex officio conservation work is, as ever, being able to develop • Collaboration with Torbay Coast & Countryside Trust members of the ACEG. and sustain partnerships with many other interested in issues relating to Deep Water Soloing (DWS) organisations. In 2009, we had several strategic activities at Berry Head. meetings with DEFRA, Natural England, land owning • On-going access liaison work at Fairy Caves Quarry. Paper members and specialist advisors bodies, conservation organisations and other • Collaboration with YDNPA to address parking issues • Alan Blackshaw • Clare Bond recreational bodies to discuss the issues surrounding at Kilnsey. • Susan Francis Gray • Kevin Gray coastal access and an appropriate appeals process. • Support for local activists during the development • Tony Greaves • Libby Houston We also met with Natural England to discuss the of Castleberg Crag. • Barbara Jones • Nick JE Kurth re-mapping of CROW access land. The BMC has • Collaboration with Kirklees Council to remove • Peter Latimer • Bob Lowe also responded to a number of key consultations, graffiti and litter from Holmfirth Edge. • Ken Taylor including the DEFRA public consultation on ‘Proposals • Support for the YDNPA Three Peaks Project to to amend the CROW ACT 2000 for coastal land’. maintain the PRoW network in the area. BMC Access reps The BMC Green Guide to the Uplands was Problems with access to abandoned quarries The national list of access reps. and contact details reprinted in 2009 and a is a recurring issue, with liability concerns by can be viewed on the BMC website. revised Lake District Green many landowners, and will be a major area of Climbing Guide was also work in 2010. BMC Access & Conservation Officers produced. The Green Guides BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB Tel. 0161 445 6111 Fax. 0161 445 4500 are good practice guides The Land Management Cath Flitcroft [email protected] for climbers, walkers and Group Guy Keating [email protected] mountaineers visiting he Land Management Group had another BMC Wales, Siabod Cottage, Plas y Brenin, Capel the uplands and are a productive period overseeing the BMC’s Curig, Betws y Coed, LL24 0ES very sucessful series of owned and managed crags. T Tel. 01690 720124 publications. Seasonal The big news was the acquisition of Wilton 1 Elfyn Jones [email protected] 8 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 8 3/3/10 09:09:44 Access & Conservation Trust

he Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) funds management strategy at this popular crag, running The Trust is extremely grateful to all its supporters projects to improve access for climbers, hill from Sheffield to Stanage. A number of practical without whom none of its work would be possible. Twalkers and mountaineers, and to protect projects have also been completed with the help The Trust very much welcomes corporate donations mountain and cliff environments. It brings together of ACT funds including the removal of fallen trees and would like to acknowledge those from Castle the BMC and Moutaineering Council of Scotland and at Ben-y-Gor, Gloucestershire allowing safe access Climbing Centre, the Climbers’ Club, Yorkshire works throughout the British Isles. to the Main Cliff; ground erosion repair at Sea Mountaineering Club, Army Mountaineering In 2009, 16 projects were supported. These have Wall, Avon Gorge; and the installation of several Association, Northumbrian Mountaineering Club, included the publication of the annual nesting belay stakes in the live firing Range, Range West in Awesome Walls Climbing Centre, Colchester Climbing restrictions poster, and an updated version of the Castlemartin, Pembrokeshire. Club, all BMC guide book sales and Tom Hatt Film BMC Green Guide to the Lake District, containing An important coastal climbing site audit, funded Productions. Many thanks also to everyone who has good practice guidance to climbing in the Lake through ACT, was undertaken in 2009. This audit made an individual contribution; these are vital for the District as well as providing detailed wildlife and identified key sea cliff climbing sites that should work of the Trust. conservation information. Similarly, ACT has funded be included within the ‘coastal margin’ definition We have had real success over the past two years a re-print of the popular BMC Green Guide to the of the new Marine and Coastal Access Act. This in raising funds by the recycling of printer cartridges Uplands, a good practice guide for walkers, climbers will help inform the BMC and Natural England staff and mobile phones using the envelopes provided in and mountaineers to the uplands of England and working on the ground during the implementation Summit magazine. This scheme has now raised over Wales. This year ACT has also helped fund the of the coastal access scheme. Similarly, ACT funds £3,000 for the Trust. Look out for more envelopes in production of access and conservation signage at are currently being used to put together a ‘Coastal which to put your old phones and printer cartridges Giggleswick Scar, North Yorkshire; Cheddar Gorge; Access Volunteer Guidance Pack’ - a comprehensive in Summit magazine throughout 2010. Bowles Rocks, Sussex; and Berry Head Nature information and training pack for volunteers that ACT is a charity and relies on donations from Reserve, Devon. will inform them of the new Marine and Coastal individuals and organisations to fund its work. In the Peak District National Park, ACT part access Act and how to play a full part locally, in the Please visit the BMC website for further information. funded the Stanage bus service as part of the traffic implementation process. (www.thebmc.co.uk/act) Climbing Walls

he Climbing Wall Committee offers advice Forward Plan 2010 ability of the climbing wall section of the BMC and support for the management and • BMC Climbing Wall Directory, Oct 2011. website and climbing walls database. Tsustainable development of new and • Rob Adie to continue advising on potential existing climbing walls through a network of wall projects. Climbing Wall Committee Regional representatives. • Continued collaboration with ABC on • Nick Bond (Chair) The committee met three times in 2009, with an National Indoor Climbing Achievement • Robert Adie (Secretary) average attendance of seven, and with many local Scheme (NICAS). • Graham Coff issues discussed through electronic correspondence. • Continue development of Climbing Wall DVD • Ian Dunn – script writing and planning spring 2010, • Peter Dyson Summary of Key Achievements filming summer 2010, production winter 2010. • Mark Hounslea & Outputs for 2009 • Continue development work on BMC Survey • Gary Lewis • New Climbing Wall Directory (published Oct 2009). for climbing wall users. • Gary Morgan • Rob Adie advised on numerous wall projects, • Develop BMC climbing accident reporting • Jonathan Richardson ranging from school traversing walls to major database, including the production of data • Claudia Sarner dedicated centres including Newcastle Climbing analysis reports. • Audrey Seguy Centre, Plymouth Life Centre, Huddersﬁeld Sports • Develop website content for climbing walls • Steve Taylor Centre etc. section. • Jan Van Geet • Generic climbing wall facility speciﬁcation for Sport • Development of interactive online climbing Observers England produced. wall database using the new communities • Guy Jarvis • Work started on the BMC Climbing Wall Users survey. section of the BMC website in order to get • Steve Mayers • Work started on the BMC Climbing Wall climbing walls to have their own profiles and • Tom O’Rourke Essentials DVD. promote their own events forum section of • Andy Reid • Climbing Walls section of BMC website the site. continually updated. • Develop BMC membership in climbing walls. Paper Members • BMC advised on the set-up of the Adventuremark • Continue development of English National • Colin Boothroyd scheme in conjunction with the Association of Training Centre idea. • John Hartley British Climbing Walls (ABC), using the BMC • Bi-annual Climbing Wall Managers Seminar. • Kev Howett Climbing Wall Accreditation scheme as a basis for These are the major points of the • Paul Myers the Adventuremark scheme. Committee, however, it will continue to advise • Don Robinson • Rob Adie completed a Q&A day on climbing walls on all types of climbing wall development. • Andy Say on UKClimbing. Also, improving the content and interactive • Calvin Torrans

BMC Annual Report 2009 9

BMC annual report.indd 9 3/3/10 09:10:13 Competition Climbing • Ran numerous training days for Senior new BMC Combo event (bouldering, lead & speed). Leading Team. • Raise the profile of the British Team and seek external his has been a good year for our • Junior Team results include high placings for funding to support their efforts, we intend to do this competitors and you can see from the many team members, notably: Natalie Berry 4th by recruiting a ‘Team Sponsorship Coordinator’ T detail below that members of the Team at Ratho, Jonathan Stocking 5th at Ratho, Caitlin • Assist with BMC YCS. achieved some impressive results. The events that Wallace 6th in Kaliningrad and Michaela Tracy • Run Team training sessions. we organised throughout the year were all successful making finals at EYS competitions. Numerous • Administer Team travel and entry to international and we hope to continue this trend in the future. team members ranked in the top 20 in Europe, events. The Team continues to be supported by a large with Caitlin Wallace ranked 8th. • Organise a national route setting course. number of very enthusiastic volunteers and I would • Bouldering team were very successful. Dave • Review the success of the 2009/10 Leading Ladder. like to personally thank them for giving up so much Barrans ranked 3rd at World Championships, • Organise the British Team section of the BMC website of their time. Iain McKenzie successfully took over as China, 6th at Wien, Austria (now ranked 11th and keep it updated on British team successes at Chair of the Committee; thanks go to Mike Watson for overall in the World). Ned Feehally 6th at home and abroad. his many years of service, as well as thanks to Tony Eindhoven, Holland (now ranked 31st in the • Use the new communities section of the BMC site to and Debbie Powell, Tom Randall, Dave Binney and Sue world). Stewart Watson 6th at Innsbruck, Austria good effect to promote the team and give them an Pinner for the dedicated efforts with the British Teams. (now ranked 25th in the world). The British identity that they can use to promote themselves to Bouldering team are now ranked 11th in the World. potential sponsors. Summary of Key Achievements • Administered Team travel and entry to • Assist with the development of the upcoming & Outputs for 2009: international events. International competitions to be held in the UK in • Successfully ran the British Lead Climbing • A national judge’s course was run at the BLCC. the coming years. Championships (BLCC), the British Bouldering • A re-structuring of the competitions calendar for • Select a possible host for the World Championships (BBC), the BMC Leading Ladder, 2010 to allow for international events both in the Championships for 2013 and the International Federation of Sport UK and abroad. Climbing (IFSC) European Youth Series (EYS) • BMC made a positive decision to support the British Bouldering Team round (the first international competition in the idea of Competition climbing becoming an • Dave Barrans UK since 2004) and assisted with BMC Youth Olympic sport. • Leah Crane Climbing Series (YCS). • Completed a Q&A day on UKClimbing on • Mark Croxall • Ran numerous training days for Junior Team competitions and the Olympics. • Ned Feehally (national and regional training trips, and crag • Set up ‘Psyched!’ – a competition specific Newsletter. • Mina Leslie-Wujastyk based training included safety related training • Diane Merrick where needed). Forward Plan 2010 • Gaz Parry • Ran numerous training days for Senior • Run BLCC, BBC, Open Youth Competitions, World • Jonathan Partridge Bouldering Team. Youth Championships, Bouldering World Cup and • Stewart Watson

Drew Haigh winning the British Lead Climbing Championships

10 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 10 1/3/10 16:18:45 the BMC website. Additionally, during 2009, we held British Bouldering Squad Senior Leading Support Team BMC Outdoor Youth Meets for climbers in North • Keith Bradbury • Ian Dunn - Team Manager Wales and in the South East. Our first hill walking • Adam Jeeworth • Drew Haigh - Assistant Team Manager meet for young people was held in Yorkshire. These • David Mason meets were organised by the local Area Youth • Gill Peet Competitions Committee Coordinators and young people were accompanied • Katy Piddock • Iain McKenzie (Chair) by their parents so both child and parent could learn • Helen Shilletto • Gareth Parry (Vice Chair) more about the nature of these outdoor activities. • Rob Adie (Secretary) On disability issues, the BMC Equity Steering Bouldering Support Team • Graeme Alderson Group now has members with disabilities to • Nick Clement - Team Manager • Dave Barrans represent this part of our community. The BMC • Tom Sugden - Assistant Team Manager • Percy Bishton is working towards ensuring that there are no • Nick Clement removable barriers to disabled people’s involvement Junior British Climbing Team • Nick Colton in climbing and mountaineering activities. With • Nikki Addison • Ian Dunn this aim in mind, with Mountain Leader Training • Steven Addison • John Ellison England (MLTE) we have been working on a future • Natalie Berry • Scott Malina Derben publication Hill Walking For All, which contains • Rachel Carr • Tom Randall practical guidance on hill walking for people with • Shauna Coxsey • Audrey Seguy a wide range of disabilities. Additionally, and again • Angus Davidson • John Shaw in conjunction with MLTE, the BMC has supported • Jaime Davidson • Mike Watson a number of training initiatives aimed at improving • Charlotte Ellison support for people with a disability. • Joshua Farrell Paper Members BMC safety posters have been translated into the • Jonathan Field • Ian Alderson Welsh Language. BMC Summit magazine contains • Charlotte Garden • John Arran a regular article that appears in both English and • James Garden • Kevin Howett Welsh and we have translated the book Hill Walking • Oliver Grounsell into Welsh. • Rebecca Hall Equity • Edward Hamer he BMC aims to ensure that all people, Equity Committee • Tara Hayes irrespective of their gender, religious belief, • Rehan Siddiqui (Chair) • Eleanor Hopkins Tmartial status, age, race, ethnic origin, sexual • Nick Colton (Secretary) • Michael Hopkins orientation or disability, have a genuine and equal • Kabeer Bostan • Sean Hopkins opportunity to participate in climbing, hill walking • Marcus Drummond • Ross Kirkland and mountaineering at all levels and in all roles. • Graeme Hill • Ellen Macaskill To meet this aim, the BMC is looking at ways • Fida Hussain • Dylan MacKenzie to remove barriers to participation that under- • Bob Moulton • Robert MacKenzie represented groups may face. The BMC Equity • Mahesh Patel • Carmel Moran Steering Group oversees this work as well as • Kamala Sen • Edd Mowbray advises the BMC on equality issues. The group is • Fredelina Yong • Olivia Ratcliffe Chaired by BMC Vice President Rehan Siddiqui. • Billy Ridal As part of our commitment to equity you may have Paper Members • Matthew Roby noticed that we use a wide range of images in BMC • Karen Darke • Randy Roby publications to ensure that we don’t inadvertently give • Tim Marshall • Lily Rosengard the impression that some groups of under-represented • Trevor Massiah • Jonathan Stocking people are not welcome. Accordingly, a balance of • Iain McKenzie • Molly Thompson-Smith images is used that show women and people from all • Bill Renshaw • Luke Tilley ethnic minority backgrounds. • Andy Say (MLTE) • Michaela Tracy To help people from disadvantaged backgrounds • Dalvinder Sohdi • Caitlin Wallace there is a low income discount available to all who • Ken Wilson • Alice Waterhouse enter the BMC Youth Climbing Series. • Jonny White From an equity point of view, it is also very Guidebooks • Catherine Whiteman evident that in the younger age categories there are he Guidebook Committee produces a • Paul Williamson now as many female as there are male competitors. definitive set of guidebooks for the Peak • Suzannah Zitter To help parents TDistrict and also assists other groups to understand what our publish guidebooks. Junior Support Team activities involve, • Ian Dunn - Team Manager we have published Summary of Key Achievements • Jane Newman - Assistant Team Manager the well received & Output for 2009 booklet Young People: The key achievements of 2009 for guidebooks Senior British Leading Team Climbing, Hill Walking, has been the production of a new version of • Adrian Baxter Mountaineering - A the Staffordshire Roaches guide, a reprint of the • Drew Haigh Parent’s Guide. Lancashire Rock guide and significant advances in • Rob Haigh This is also available the preparation of both the Froggatt and Moorland • Adam Watson as a free download on Grit guidebooks.

BMC Annual Report 2009 11

BMC annual report.indd 11 1/3/10 16:18:56 • Brian Cropper has donated his collection of 1000 The conception of the new edition of the be finished later in the year. Work continues on digital images of climbers. Staffordshire Roaches guide was in some way two smaller guides, to Leicestershire and Mersey • We received a copy of the 1933 Everest film, plus a unplanned, but thankfully has turned out to be in Sandstone, and it is hoped to bring Leicestershire copy of Stanley Watson’s film High Hazard (1934). no way unwanted. The 2004 edition had sold out out in 2010 also. • A history of the formation of Wild Country written and, popular as it was, it was obvious that some by Mark Vallance. changes would improve it in many ways. This had Guidebook Committee • Paul Diffley (Hot Aches Productions) donated Giles initially been intended to be the insertion of several • Ian Carr (Chair) Barker’s audio interviews with climbers in the new routes and a few Stanage-style bouldering • Niall Grimes (Secretary) Peak District (including Brown, Whillans, Nat Allen circuits, but when it was looked into, it seemed • Les Ainsworth and Simon Nadin), plus a draft manuscript of an that there was a lot that needed improving. These • Brian Griffiths unpublished book. improvements were carried out – more, larger • Martin Kocsis The historic audio interviews made by Alan photo-topos, a full new set of action pictures, more, • David Lanceley Hankinson have been digitised in 2009 to make better maps, grade changes, and of course the new • Dave Turnbull them more accessible. routes and bouldering circuits. This has resulted • Richard Wheeldon Volunteers from around the country have been in what at least one BMC CEO referred to as “the helping Maxine transcribe the audio interviews and best definitive guidebook yet produced in the UK”. Heritage two volunteers have been able to assist in MHT’s The resulting bouncing baby guidebook has been he climax of Penrith office with the cataloguing of the Bonington warmly welcomed by all. this year was Collection. Indexing the photographs of climbers is also Of course, the production of this hasn’t been the launch on T being carried out by a volunteer who recognises the without cost. The major project since the publication 10 November 2009 of usual (and the unusual) culprits. But more volunteer of the Stanage guide has been the Froggatt to Black Mountain Heritage Trust’s help would be welcomed from BMC members. Please Rocks guide, and this has certainly been set back (MHT) partnership with the University of Cumbria at its contact Maxine Willett through the MHT website. by the efforts that have gone into The Roaches. Ambleside campus (formerly Charlotte Mason College), The Froggatt guide will be a monster of a book. It hosted by MHT trustee Sir Chris Bonington and the MHT Trustees (2009) covers most of the crags from the old Froggatt guide university’s Vice-Chancellor Professor Peter McCaffrey. • Prof. Terry Gifford (Chair) – Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Yarncliffe etc., as well as The BMC had already approved the joint • Julie Summers (Vice-Chair) everything from the old yellow Chatsworth Gritstone business plan which will provide a working, • Sir Chris Bonington guide – Birchen, Gardom’s, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, accessible national base for the historical collection • Paul Braithwaite Robin Hood’s Stride, Eagle Tor, the Amber Valley, of British mountaineering, a programme of events • John Innerdale Black Rock, Whatstandwell Quarries, Shining Cliff, drawing attention to Britain’s mountain heritage • Ron Kenyon and probably 25 other crags. This encompasses 15 and culture, and access to MHT’s resources for • Richard Lemmey years of development on the major crags, as well as university teaching and research. • Dr Jerry Lovatt all the bouldering, old and new. Never have so many The MHT operates as the heritage arm of the • Jim Lowther crags and routes gone into a BMC guide before (or BMC, which appoints its trustees. It is the only body • John Porter indeed any guide), and it presents its own challenges. that is concerned with identifying and preserving • Doug Scott The good news is that during the time work on the heritage of British mountaineering and MHT’s • BMC Froggatt has continued. Thus, perhaps the most ever-expanding database includes the collections of anticipated guide ever will hit the shelves in spring 2010. individuals and clubs. Huts The intensive work behind the research and The MHT Archivist, Maxine Willett, continues he Huts Group coordinates the BMC’s preparation of the series continues. With lessons to support the heritage work of clubs and support for huts, where the BMC has being learned from the workload on the Froggatt individuals, but has mainly been cataloguing the T a direct interest, and offers advice and guide, a lot of the design work on other guides in the Bonington Archive Collection this year, largely guidance where it is sought by affiliated clubs series is now being outsourced, in order to prevent funded by a Heritage Lottery Fund grant, partly and users. any bottlenecks in the system. The Kinder Area guide, by the BMC and partly by consultancy work for The Group met on one occasion in 2009 to under the editorship of Martin Kocsis, continues to mountain film festivals and the Scottish Mountain discuss current issues and to review matters relating advance. This will appear in a single volume, covering Heritage Collection. to the Don Willans Memorial Hut (DWMH) (for which all the moorland areas from Kinder, Bleaklow and the Updating the national database remains our the BMC holds the lease) and the Alex MacIntyre Chew Valley regions. Work continues on the Leicester priority, but additions to the MHT archive during the (AMMH) and Glen Brittle (GBMH) Huts which are and Merseyside area guidebooks, and once Over the year include: both held in trust jointly with the Mountaineering Moors is out of the way, work will begin on the new Council of Scotland (MCofS). series of Peak Limestone guides. The new Lancashire Artefacts During the year the Group advised affiliated guide, which will be produced in the modern BMC • Donations of oxygen set, boots and clothing worn by clubs and their members on a range of format, continues, although the need for crag Doug Scott on Everest (1975) and the Ogre (1977). matters. These included business taxation, photography is the obvious crux of the task. • Donations of equipment used on the 1975 Everest Community Amateur Sports Clubs (CASC’s), The guidebook committee itself continues to expedition by Dave Clarke. civil liability insurance, funding improvements, operate very successfully under the chairmanship of • Home-made descendeur from K. C. Gordon. fire risk assessments, employers’ liability Ian Carr. • Piton found by Joe Tasker on the Eiger North Face. insurance, green issues, health & safety issues, maintenance of hut equipment including gas, Forward Plan 2010 Archive Collections electrical and water systems, hut insurance and Froggatt to Black Rocks will • Mountain Film Festival Collection (donated by legal issues involving breach of contract, data appear in spring 2010. The John Porter & Brian Hall) - films (1999-2009). protection and trustees. moorland grit guide, Over • Kendal Mountain Festival CIC (donated by KMF The Group liaises closely with the MCofS Huts The Moors is intended to CIC) - films (2008-2009). Advisory Group (HAG) on matters of common

12 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 12 1/3/10 16:19:05 interest. In conjunction with HAG, we have • Inauguration of the Julie Tullis Memorial Award. time to time, notable climbing partnerships. 36 produced 13 Guidelines to assist hut operators. • Consolidating an electronic database of enthusiastic international guests from a total of These Guidelines are available on the BMC website. expedition reports. 26 countries teamed with a similar number of A Guideline to cover Private Drinking Water Supplies • Nominating British climbers for international British hosts to battle with fickle conditions, either in England and Wales is planned for 2010 when gatherings. high on the Ben, or when winter climbing was the regulations become available. All the current • Publicising British expedition success through a not possible, climb rock on low altitude crags or Guidelines are reviewed from to time to ensure that lecture program at the Kendal Film Festival and on dry tool in quarries. The winter meets traditionally they are kept up-to-date. the BMC website. result in at least one or two new routes and this The Group’s Chair attended meetings of the • Contributing to the Expedition Symposium in one was no exception, with two completed on AMMH and DWMH Hut Committees. He continues October at Plas-y-Brenin. the Ben. Evening sessions included spectacular to act as Secretary for the AMMH Hut Committee. This year was the first in which expeditions were presentations from several of the foreign The Group’s Chair also serves on the BMC’s Child supported directly by the BMC, rather than indirectly participants. For more details see the BMC website. Protection Steering Group. A new BMC and MCofS through UK Sport funding. The BMC dedicated a There were also other international gatherings at Management Agreement is being prepared for the small sum of money to climbers meeting a new which BMC members took part, e.g. the American AMMH Hut. This new Agreement will reflect the and tighter set of criteria, focused more towards Alpine Club’s meet at Indian Creek, Utah. appointment by the BMC and MCofS of two ex officio the aims of, and bringing direct tangible benefits to, In 2010 there will be a change from the usual trustees. These trustees are the Chairs of the BMC the BMC. Notably, grants were focused primarily venue of North Wales for the International Rock Huts Group and the MCofS Huts Advisory Group. but not exclusively on younger mountaineers Climbing Meet. It will now take place in on The Group is planning the seventh Huts Seminar and those for whom the support would make a the Cornish sea cliffs during early May, with which will be held at Plas y Brenin in October 2010. significant difference to the viability of their trip. All accommodation at the Count House or nearby Topics may include Civil Liability Insurance, Hut these climbers were BMC members, who took BMC camping. Insurance, Fire Risk Assessments, Private Drinking insurance cover. To maintain meaningful grants, Water Supplies and Energy Saving. The Group also only 10 expeditions were awarded financial support, BMC International Grant awards for 2009 intends to update the BMC’s Huts List. though six others gained BMC Approval. Grant awards were made to eligible members of 10 The Group will continue to encourage and Venues in 2009 ranged from Alaska to Chile, and expeditions as follows: support the National Hut Committees where they from Greenland to Malaysia. In the main it was • Chang Himal £2,500 try to improve and update the properties and a highly successful year for British expeditions, • Xuelian Feng £750 their facilities. Recently we helped the AMMH the most notable achieving hard new routes in • Dragon’s Horns £400 Hut Committee to obtain BMC finance for the the Xuelian Massif of the Chinese Tien Shan, on • San Lorenzo £1,250 refurbishment of the Hut’s toilet block. Grosvenor, Church and Pk 11,300 in the Central • Alaska (Hunter) £1,500 Alaska Range, Kyzyl Asker North Summit in • Alaska (Foraker) £400 Huts Group Committee Kyrgyzstan’s Western Kokshaal-too (a range visited • Alaska (Pk 11,300) £600 • Iain McCallum (Chair) by no less than three BMC expeditions during the • Alaska (Ruth) £2,500 • Martin Kocsis (Secretary/BMC Officer) year), and Chang Himal in East Nepal. • Kokshaal-too £1,500 • Nigel Charlesworth There was also successful exploratory climbing in • Greenland (Ren Land) £400 • John Farrow previously unvisited corners of East Greenland, the Approval was also given to climbers visiting the • Lyndon Gill Canadian Yukon, and Kyrgyzstan’s At Bashi Range and Russian Altai, Sikkim, Canadian Yukon (two expeditions) • Michael Hunt Sarychat Valley, plus trips to rarely visited areas such and Kyrgyzstan’s Kokshaal-too (two expeditions). • Ken Jackson as the Russian South Kurai and North West Sikkim. • John Leftley One team put up a big wall route on the West Face of International Committee • Tony Margetts Dragon's Horns in the South China Sea. The Committee met once in 2009 and comprises the • Bill Renshaw The International Committee includes some of following members: • Dave Roberts the leading figures on the World mountaineering • Lindsay Griffin (Chair) • Chris Thickett scene and liaises closely with other grant giving • Dave Wilkinson (Vice Chair) bodies. It has two representatives on both • Nick Colton (Secretary) International the Mount Everest Foundation's Screening • Rab Anderson (MCofS) nternational representation, information, advice and Management Committees. It also has a • Paul Braithwaite and expedition support. representative on the Welsh Sports Association's • Pat Littlejohn I The International Committee provides logistical Overseas Expedition Panel, which administers • Andy MacNae and financial support, information, and guidance Sports Council for Wales funding. A representative • Stephen Sustad for British mountaineers travelling overseas, and from the Mountaineering Council of Scotland, which strives to protect the interests and freedom of all awards Mountaineering and Climbing Bursaries, Paper Members mountaineers at an international level. also attends International Committee meetings. • Alan Hinkes • Kevin Howett (MCofS) Highlights of 2009 International Meets • Bill Ruthven (MEF) • Grant aid and support to 10 overseas Despite pretty mixed weather and conditions, • Ron Rutland expeditions, and approval of another six. Glenmore Lodge made a great job of holding • Mike Turner • Holding a successful international winter meet in the biennial BMC International Winter Climbing February at Glenmore Lodge, Scotland. Meet, which in 2009 took place from 22 February Technical • Close liaison with the Mount Everest Foundation, - 1 March. Over the years, these events have n 2009 there were five Technical Committee Welsh Sports Association and Mountaineering undoubtedly raised the profile of the BMC, meetings, with an average attendance of Council of Scotland on the distribution of always fostered excellent international relations, Ieight. Virgil Scott and Megan Hadley joined Overseas Expeditions Awards. and led to many profitable exchanges and, from the Equipment Investigation Panel (EIP). Rob

BMC Annual Report 2009 13

BMC annual report.indd 13 3/3/10 09:11:06 Foster joined the Technical Committee, Bill Technical Committee Talent Support Day for young climbers Stronge joined as a paper member and Trevor • Oliver Milling (Chair) Ian Dunn (NW AYC & Junior Team Coach) organised Hellen went from a full to a paper member. • Dan Middleton (Secretary) a training day for the top 50 boys and girls based on Three Technical Reports were concluded and • Rob Foster their results in the Youth Climbing Series. Four years published online. Four Tech Skills articles were • Alan Huyton of funding has been sourced from Sport England to published in Summit magazine. A number of • Ben Lyon expand this programme. website features articles and news items were • Stu McAleese produced and an interim Knots download was • Neville McMillan Long Term Athlete Development workshops published online. These include a video feature • George Steele Both FUNdamentals and Learning to Train are showing how to safely thread the top anchors on • Scott Titt stages within the Long Term Athlete Development a sport route. (LTAD) model. The FUNdamentals workshops have Equipment Investigation Panel been running since 2001, and with Sport England • Jane Blackford funding, the Learning to Train workshop was • Phil Dowthwaite developed in 2009, and will be rolled out in early 2010. • Megan Hadley • Fred Hall Child Protection • Steve Long Child protection and other specialist training days • Dan Robinson were delivered to key BMC youth volunteers. The • Virgil Scott BMC’s internal child protection policy and procedures • Mark Taylor developed in line with current good practice. • Richard Terrell • Phillip Tootill Student Safety and Good Practice Seminar Over 30 volunteers delivered good practice talks and Working with the North Wales Bolt Fund, Paper Members practical workshops to 107 students. Plas y Brenin BMC anchors at Pen Trwyn were inspected and • Rob Allen hosted the event. maintained. Through the Better Bolts Campaign, • Dave Brook bolt donations were distributed and used to • Petra Ernst BMC Alpine Meet rebolt routes at Lower Pen Trywn, Battleship Edge • Trevor Hellen The fourth BMC Alpine Meet was based in La Berarde and other venues. • Mike Margeson over two weeks in August. Slightly less people An equipment seminar at Student Safety & • Paul Seddon attended than in previous years, but the meet will run Good Practice Seminar, Plas y Brenin was held. • Bill Stronge again in 2010. There was BMC representation at the MLTA • Roger Wild Conference and equipment advice was given out • Nick Williams Good Practice Lectures and Masterclasses at the BMC Clubs and Huts Seminar. Two series were delivered in 2009: Rock Climbing At the UIAA Safety Commission, Neville Training & Youth Essentials and Winter Essentials. Practical rock McMillan is the UK National Delegate. Rob Allen he Training & Youth Committee (TYC) has climbing masterclasses were delivered for the first is the UK Corresponding Member of the Safety had a productive year; the Youth Climbing time in 2009, which proved very popular. Commission. At CEN TC136/WG5 Mountaineering TSeries continues to be the BMC’s largest Equipment, Neville McMillan is the Principal UK event with over 500 young climbers competing; Training & Youth Committee Expert, appointed by BSI Technical Committee over 100 students attended the annual good • Ian Fenton (Chair) SW136/5. Neville McMillan is the BMC practice seminar and the BMC Alpine Meet has • Jon Garside (Secretary) representative on SW136/5, and Ben Lyon is become established as a regular calendar feature. • Ed Allaway the Chairman. Rob Foster has been recruited as The TYC is responsible for managing BMC • Anne Arran eventual successor to Neville and will shadow training and youth events and publications, an • Martin Chester him over the next 12 months at UIAA & CEN outline of its work programme is listed below. • Nick Colton meetings. • Mal Creasey For 2010, the forward plan is to continue to BMC Youth Climbing Series • Mark Dennison publish key Technical Committee reports on the Proving as popular as ever, the series was made • Mark Dicken BMC website, to produce Tech Skills features for possible by the dedication of the BMC Area Youth • Ian Dunn Summit magazine. We will also produce features, Coordinators (AYCs), the many volunteers, and the • John Dunne videos and downloads for the BMC website hosting climbing walls. The MCofS organises rounds • Tim Hogan including: Helmets mini-guide, Knots mini-guide, in Scotland, and 2009 saw Mountaineering Ireland • Julie Hurst and Care & Maintenance videos. We also hope organise Irish rounds for the first time. Those who did • Adrian Japp to have a Ropes mini-guide mostly completed best in the British and Irish rounds then competed in a • Neil Johnson by the end of the year. We will run another national final held at the Westway in London. • Mike Margeson equipment seminar at the Student Safety & Good • Karl Mather Practice Seminar, Plas y Brenin. Finally, we will Outdoor Youth Meets • Andy Newton run a BMC Technical Conference, Plas y Brenin in Three parent and child Outdoor Youth Meets were • John Simpson November 2010. organised by volunteer AYCs. Mark Dicken and • Jon Wilson If you are interested in joining the Technical Julie Zitter organised climbing meets at Holyhead Committee, we’d like to hear from you. In Mountain and Harrison’s Rocks respectively. Paper Members particular, expertise in polymers, textiles and Anne Chevalier organised a walking meet in the • Dave Binney plastics is required. Yorkshire Dales. • Iain Blanche

14 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 14 3/3/10 09:11:43 • Angela Carlin • Anne Chevalier • Aaron Cox Area Reports • Paul Debney Lake District meet to the sandstone which, despite the very • David Farrell After two years of exemplary service, Al Phizacklea damp weather, was still a success. We’re looking • Lyndon Gill stepped down from the post of chair. In that time, forward to repeating this success next year, but • Matt Heason the Lakes area became a model of excellence and hopefully the weather will be better and we’ll be • Tina Heselden activity for all others to envy! able to do more climbing! • Kevin Howett The second Lakes Festival successfully came The area also benefitted massively from the • Howard Jeffs and went with numbers similar to the first event, improved communications and emails from • Ruairidh Mackenzie thanks to the efforts of a friendly and efficient the office notifying the membership of the area • Neil McGeachy team based out of Kendal. meetings – hopefully attendance will continue to • Jane Newman Attendances and involvement have been rise and we’ll have to find a bigger venue! • Barnaby Poulton good and the area meetings are consequently The area had a number of interesting themes • Peter Rowlands sociable and interesting affairs. The access team to the meetings – ranging from a discussion • Andy Say under Peter Latimer’s leadership has been hard of environmental concerns and doing our bit, • Paul Smith at work ensuring fair access for walkers and through the clubs committee, and to starting • Paul Walters climbers throughout the nesting season, and discussions about an artificial climbing area in • Jim Watkin the meetings as a whole have dealt with various the South East. This last is rumbling along slowly • Jonathan White ethical conundrums. The Lakes Bolt Fund is a – but it’s difficult to argue that whilst the majority • Roger Wild significant part of the area activity, and it will be of the BMC’s membership lives and works down • Julie Zitter spearheading the rebolting of St Bees in 2010. here, we’re sadly lacking in quality climbing Area meetings are on the move for this year, venues when compared to our luckier brethren Child Safeguarding with meetings at the four points of the compass in other parts of the country (despite Harrison’s, he Child Safeguarding Group is a sub group in order to involve as many people as possible. Swanage, the chalk cliffs of Dover et. al.). It’s of the Training and Youth Committee that See you at one of the meetings, or at the Lakes also hard to find something wrong with having a Toversees the implementation of the BMC Festival in mid June. world-class artificial boulder park constructed in Child Protection Policy and the provision of advice East London after the 2012 Olympics – all we’ve and support to BMC Affiliated Clubs and BMC staff Lakes Area Notes got to do now is find a way to make it happen. on Child Safeguarding issues. 4 meetings, average attendance: 24 Finally, we’ve a fresh-faced, energetic bunch of The Group met four times in 2009 and produced • Chair: Mike Parsons & Ewen Turner people taking over as those crucial volunteers in guidance for BMC affiliated clubs on child • Secretary: James Bumby our area – wish us luck for next year! Thanks to safeguarding and child protection issues. • National Council Representatives: Polly Sullivan Anna Gregory who finally steps down from the & Steve Scott area, to Graham Coff for his hard work on the Child Safeguarding Committee • Access & Conservation: Cumbria Coordinator climbing wall commitee, and to Julie Zitter and • Christine Scarborough (Chair) – Peter Latimer; Eden Valley – Ron Kenyon; John Gibbons for their excellent youth work over • Nick Colton (Secretary) Borrowdale & Thirlmere – Stephen Reid; the years. • Mike Coxsey Ullswater, Haweswater & Swindale – • Shauna Coxsey (Junior Climbing Team Member) Mike Hornby; Duddon & Eskdale – Al Phizacklea; London and South East area notes • Iain McCallum Wasdale, Ennerdale & St Bees – Ben Whitely; 4 meetings, average attendance: 40 Kentmere & Longsleddale – Max Biden; Coniston • Chair: Christian Lund Paper Members – Jim Loxham. • Secretary: Tom Perrin • Mark Alderson • Clubs Representative: Martin Dale • National Council Representatives: • Dave Binney • Youth Representative: Ron Kenyon Christian Lund, Vic Odell • Matthew Brown • Access & Conservation: Martin Brice • Dick Green Members 2008 2009 • Clubs Representative: Tony Williams No. of clubs in the area 11 10 • Youth Representatives: Julie Zitter, With club membership of 919 723 Sam Johnson, Elizabeth Holley, Ruth Gibson, Share of national clubs 377 319 Steve James Individual members 1,307 1,447 • Climbing Wall Representatives: Damon Clark & Total members in area 2,603 2,489 Richard Eckersley

London & South East Members 2008 2009 Four meetings with an average attendance of around No. of clubs in the area 96 91 40 showed that the area is enjoying a renaissance With club membership of 5,481 5,023 of interest – probably due to the venue (it is now Share of national clubs 2,247 2,217 run in a pub), shorter and more effective meetings, Individual members 11,259 13,314 and some excellent guest speakers (many thanks Total members in area 18,987 20,554 go to Dr. Jeremy Windsor, Neil Gresham and Steve McClure). Midlands The area also managed to do quite a lot this There have been three area meetings since the last year – we had another great year with regards AGM. Attendance remains steady. At our March to youth and competitions, and added an adult meeting we saw the resignation of our chair John

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BMC annual report.indd 15 3/3/10 09:12:13 Matthews due to ill health and the election of Pymm; West Midlands – Richard Law North Easterners are enjoying our craggin’; in Charles Gameson to Chair in June. We wish John • Clubs Representative: Ed Proctor Summer, Club Meets outside in the long, light well and offer a big thank you to Iain McKenzie for • Youth Representative: Iain Blanche evenings and in Winter at indoor walls (or even chairing our meetings in March and June. • Climbing Walls Representative: Claudia Sarner outside for some with head torches and ice tools!) The AGM saw a return of Nick Bullock providing yet another entertaining slide Members 2008 2009 North East Area Notes show and lecture. Nick being an ex-local to No. of clubs in the area 43 41 3 meetings, average attendance: 12 Leicestershire always draws a good crowd keen With club membership of 2,780 2,653 • Chair: Alan Hinkes OBE to hear of his pursuits. This is proving to be most Share of national clubs 1,140 1,171 • Secretary: Lloyd Murray successful as an annual event. Individual members 3,835 4,477 • National Council Representative: Alan Hinkes As usual there have been a number of Total members in area 7,755 8,301 • Access & Conservation: Northumberland access issues which have kept our Access Reps – Richard Pow; Durham & North Yorks Moors Howard Pymm and Richard Law busy. In the North East – Peter Hay East Midlands two applications were made to The North East Area has a new climbing wall in • Youth Representative: Jane Newman Natural England to undertake crag clean-up work Newcastle, situated in St Marks Church in Byker. • Climbing Walls Representative: Peter Dyson at Westminster Arms crag and Reservoir Quarry. The Newcastle Climbing Centre is a Rockworks Works have yet to take place and are scheduled development which includes an eight metre roof Members 2008 2009 for next autumn. section. This is a great new facility for the Tyneside No. of clubs in the area 9 8 In the West Midlands Richard has been area and climbing talks are being organised – I With club membership of 592 642 busy working with a number of climbing clubs recently saw Lakeland Lad Dave Birkett entertain the Share of national clubs 243 283 organising a crag clean up at Nescliffe. The Geordies in his inimitable Cumbrian way. Individual members 1,486 1,721 cold weather in the winter has had the effect of Also in Byker, (is this area becoming the Total members in area 2,321 2,646 creating a brand new cliff on Wenlock Edge in climbing hot spot of the NE!? It always was Shropshire with five new routes of grades up to famous for the Byker Wall and Byker Grove!) North West VS, lengths up to about 15metres. Climb Newcastle has been up and running over The North West area continues to involve large Climbing walls are also doing well. The a year, set up as a dedicated bouldering facility numbers of local climbers in its discussions and Midlands area has yet another state of the in a converted swimming pool building. Another activities. art bouldering and roped climbing facility good bouldering facility is the Durham Climbing During the year two very successful clean up “Shropshire Climbing Centre”, in Newport near Centre near Durham City and the Mackems on days were organised at Wilton. Many routes were Telford which opened in March. Creation climbing Wearside still have the scarily high Sunderland given a thorough going over, some in situ gear wall has opened a new section of wall. Redpoint Wall. In South Durham, Barnard Castle Wall was replaced and the quarry itself was tidied continues to thrive seeing a very successful year. has been extended, Rock Antics has changed and cleared of rubbish. Quite a few climbers The Tower Climbing Centre now has its own BMC ownership and recently been given elite status by later commented that this showpiece crag was affiliated club for the under 18’s to name just a Jingo Wobbly. now in as good a condition as any of them could few of things going on at our local centres. More importantly on real rock two brave remember. Well done everyone and thank you to The BMC Youth Climbing Series continues to Cleveland Mountaineering Club lads, Luke Hunt Martin for the cakes. Working parties also visited attract much interest in the Midlands with over 40 and Franco Cookson, made the first free ascent Egerton on a number of occasions. entrants competing in the three regional events of the Girdle Traverse on Whitestone Cliffe, an On the access front a number of minor and 12 going forward to compete in the finals at epic 309 metres HXS 6a/6b over 7.5hours. A truly problems were resolved through discussions the Westway, London. We fielded a strong team valiant achievement. If you feel heroic enough, with landowners. However, Hoghton, the jewel finishing 7th overall. This year saw the boys excel, give the second ascent a bash, or try and beat in the crown of Lancashire climbing, remained George Morris came second followed by Dominic their time. an ongoing issue. A formal proposal for much Vincent third in the 8-10 year old category. Well Another noteworthy ascent was made by Steve improved access to the crag was made to the done boys. A good result too for Wolf Mountain Crowe, a long time North East activist. He made estate but no response was received in time for where the boys regularly climb. Thanks to a foray into the Yorkshire Area and climbed the this year’s season. The end result was that the everyone who competed and to everyone that Central Wall at Malham Cove 70 metres 8b. He is existing limited access agreement was applied helped at the regional events and in particular to only the second person to do so after John Dunne and this, combined with the late fledging of the our Youth Officer Iain Blanche for making it such in 1988. peregrines, resulted in a climbing ‘season’ of less a success. Crag and access news includes tree felling than a fortnight. Given the overgrown condition Much of the hard work of Martin Kocsis at the at Kyloe Out, access problems at Heckley and a of the crag such a short period of access was of BMC office goes unnoticed at an area level, so it CROW Act closure on Simonside for 28 days in little value. Undoubtedly pushing the estate to is appropriate to thank him for all the support he June by the Duke of Northumberland Estate. agree more reasonable arrangements for 2010 will has given to the area. Thanks also to the members In The North York Moors a new access need to be a priority for the area. and volunteers who have assisted in making the agreement for Danby Crag is in place for 1June-30 Another matter considered by the area was Midlands area a success. Nov. In Swaledale, Orgate Scar has been opened the proposal that the BMC should support the up at last with access from 2 Feb to 30 July. There principle of climbing as an Olympic sport. This Midlands Area Notes is some potential here. Could it become the next issue mattered a lot to some whilst others found 3 meetings, average attendance: 20 Yorkshire limestone bolt venue!? the protracted discussions deeply dull – sorry • Chair: Charles Gameson I really would like to thank all the access reps about that but letting ordinary climbers have their • Secretary: Fiona Devine for great and diligent work in this area. say is a key function of area meetings. • National Council Representatives: Fiona Devine, Karin Magog has been an excellent Secretary The NW area twice requested that the BMC Charles Gameson and has passed the ‘baton’ on to Lloyd Murray. put the matter to a national ballot of the whole • Access & Conservation: Leicestershire – Howard All in all, few problems in the area and we membership but the National Council did not

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BMC annual report.indd 16 1/3/10 16:19:42 support this proposal. The North West area did, in Grouse (near Froggatt). This has worked for the showed that participation in the running of the area the end, agree to accept the principle of climbing last two years and seems to work well in terms of is remaining at a steady level. Two of the meetings as an Olympic sport but urged the BMC to allowing access to everybody in the region. have been held outside Bristol in an attempt to take consider whether, in future years, the long term Most of the year has been concerned with the meetings to more people. interests of traditional and competition climbers access issues at the various crags and quarries A notable success was the summer meeting might be better served by the establishment of an around the region. Henry Folkard (who was last at Princetown on Dartmoor. Climbing at Hay Tor autonomous body to represent the latter. year presented with the prestigious Torch Trophy on the day after the meeting had to be rapidly Towards the end of the year Goi Ashmore and Trust award by HRH The Earl of Wessex for his curtailed following a hailstorm which left the others brought a proposal to re-bolt Frogsmouth 35+ hours a week as voluntary access rep) never ground white and the crag streaming with water. Quarry to an area meeting held in Cheshire fails to keep us all informed of the issues at large. During the year, a number of access issues (we continue to rotate area meetings to include Entertainment at the meetings was always of arose in the area, keeping our Wye Valley and venues throughout the region). The vote was high quality, with a lecture from Andy Benson, Mendips Access Reps, Rick Sewards and Ian unanimously in favour and was followed up by an films from ShAFF, and the new hardest Christmas Butterworth, busy. At Huntsham, a climbing application to the BMC’s Better Bolts Fund for the Climbing Quiz of all time by Ben Heason and ban during the shooting season was announced equipment needed. George Taylor. and climbers have been asked to leave. The The actual work on the crag has already started The newsletter has gone from strength to approach to Fly Wall via Woodcroft Quarry was and there is every prospect that climbers will be strength this year, with Martin Wass now firmly fenced off. It was not possible to contact the able to enjoy a fantastic new sport climbing venue established at its helm. This 4-8 page document is land owner. A number of encounters with a in 2010. This is a great example of how the BMC produced in time to be made publically available a “security guard” took place, but latterly the represents, supports and involves local climbers. fortnight prior to each meeting, and contains a mix situation has been quiet. So next time someone asks ‘what has the BMC of news, Peak based articles and photo galleries, In the Mendips, Fairy Cave Quarry was ever done for us?’….. forthcoming events in the area, a profile of one of also fenced off and a climbing ban imposed. All of these developments plus a variety of the local activists, and items for the agenda for the Ian Butterworth and Guy Keating met with interesting articles about climbing in the North forthcoming meeting. It is disseminated largely the landowner and there is optimism about a West have featured in the excellent NW Area electronically via the BMC and Heason Events positive resolution. However, negotiations are Newsletter that Richard Ginns has been producing mailing lists, but is also printed and distributed to not yet complete. – if you have information, opinions or articles that prominent climbing walls and shops. Feedback has Following an exchange of letters with Bristol you would like him to include in future editions he been excellent, and numbers of people attending City Council, proposing a standing liaison on can be contacted on [email protected] the meetings generally up on recent years (average Avon Gorge matters (an initiative by Colin Overall, 2009 has been a productive year for attendance of 45ish). Knowles), the BMC were invited to respond to the NW area. A lot of good things have been The following message has been conveyed the Council’s Avon Gorge development plan. achieved and we have ideas and plans for 2010. through the four letters so far: “There are five The response was made and also an extremely The area meetings continue to be open to all Peak Area Meetings a year. If you can make it positive meeting with the Parks Department took and we want you to join us - we will continue to to at least one it’ll make a huge difference to place. We hope to develop the relationship further. bribe you with chips, guest speakers and other the meetings and ultimately to your experience A group of climbers was established the interesting items. If you haven’t been to a meeting of climbing in the Peak District”. If anyone has previous year to assist in placing a webcam yet why not give it a try? Nobody wants the BMC anything they would like to contribute to the overlooking the Peregrine nesting site at the to be dominated by elites, cliques or bureaucrats newsletter please get in touch via the BMC office. Avon Gorge. This project is currently on hold, and you can help to ensure that it isn’t. but the same group has been helping local Peak District Area Notes naturalists gain access to various inaccessible North West Area Notes 5 meetings, average attendance: 45 peregrine and raven nesting sites so that the 4 meetings, average attendance: 30 • Chair: Matt Heason chicks could be ringed. • Chair: Colin Struthers • Secretary: Trudi Materna Other access and conservation work has also • Secretary: Nick Bond • National Council Representatives: Chris Moor & taken place. A grant from the Crag Care Fund • National Council Representatives: Lyndon Gill, Neil Foster enabled dangerous fallen trees to be removed Conor Doherty • Access & Conservation: Peak Co-ordinators at Ban-y-Gor. An Access and Conservation Trust • Access & Conservation: Lancashire – Les – Henry Folkard & Adam Long; Northern Peak grant was approved to part-fund improved Ainsworth; Cheshire – Mark Hounslea & Chew Valley – Rick Gibbon; Matlock area drainage at the base of Sea Walls. A crag • Clubs Representative: Steve Gill – Reuben Brown; Western Grit & Staffordshire – clearance day at the Avon Gorge Main Area • Youth Representative: Ian Dunn Andi Turner and Chris Nunn; Bouldering – Simon resulted in the clearance of a huge area of scrub, • Climbing Walls Representatives: Nick Bond, Jacques; Sheffield Area Grit – Trudi Materna & allowing free passage along the base of the cliff. Steve Gille Julian Materna The Dorset Bolt Fund enabled the replacement • Youth Representative: Jim Watkin of belay bolts on popular low-grade routes at Members 2008 2009 Swanage. No. of clubs in the area 39 33 Members 2008 2009 Summer climbing in Cheddar has continued With club membership of 3,165 2,272 No. of clubs in the area 23 22 this year. In November, the landowners of both Share of national clubs 1,298 1,003 With club membership of 1,232 1,213 sides of Cheddar issued letters announcing a Individual members 4,462 5,130 Share of national clubs 505 535 moratorium on bolting for the next five years, Total members in area 8,925 8,405 Individual members 2,666 2,999 and this was subsequently adopted as the BMC Total members in area 4,403 4,747 bolting policy for the gorge. Peak District Finally a thank-you to BMC staff who have The five meetings this year saw us travel to South West & Southern made the long trek to the South West. In particular Ramshaw, Glossop, Sheffield and twice to the Five meetings with an average attendance of 18 Martin Kocsis whose help has been invaluable.

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BMC annual report.indd 17 1/3/10 16:19:50 South West & Southern Area Notes • Clubs Representative: Andy Blakely was raised about wind farm developments 5 meetings, average attendance: 18 • Youth Representative: David Farrell (indoors); near Plumlumon. • Chair: Jerzy Wieczorek Anne Chevalier (outdoors) During the year there have been discussions • Secretary: Sam Mayfield • Climbing Wall representative: Jonathan about access at Dali’s Hole, Craig y Forwyn, • National Council Representatives: Scott Titt Richardson parking issues in Snowdonia, coastal access, • Access & Conservation: Avon Gorge – Steve the BMC work for hill walkers and extensive re- Findlay; West Penwith – Jeremy Dyke; North Members 2008 2009 bolting work, led by Pete Harrison was carried out Devon – Rick Abbott; South Devon – S.W.A.T.; No. of clubs in the area 25 23 on the Orme. Wye Valley – Rick Sewards; Portland – Neal With club membership of 1,426 1,419 In the south there was a very successful Gower Heanes; Swanage – Steve Taylor; Cheddar & Share of national clubs 585 626 Festival organised by Swansea based climbers Somerset – Ian Butterworth, Martin Crocker Individual members 2,303 2,723 which attracted 75 people. Visit the Gower • Youth Representative: Tina Heselden Total members in area 4,314 4,768 Climbing Festival website for a full write up. The • Climbing Wall Representative: Steve Taylor South Wales Bolt Fund has increased its profile by Wales/Cymru arranging film nights, lectures and selling colour Members 2008 2009 This has been another very busy year for BMC topos. Crags which have seen attention from the No. of clubs in the area 24 22 Wales/Cymru with a continued high attendance at team include Foxhole, Dinas Rock and Taffs Well. In With club membership of 1,725 1,392 BMC Wales/Cymru meetings. Pembroke we continue to have good relations with Share of national clubs 707 614 Four meetings have been held during the year in the National Park and the Military with the usual Individual members 4,078 4,918 the north, two at the Vaynol in Nant Peris, one at the briefing and bird nesting discussions taking place. Total members in area 6,510 6,924 Deganwy Castle Hotel and the traditional AGM at Plas y Brenin with an average attendance of 44. Wales/Cymru Area Notes Yorkshire Three meetings have been held in the south, one 4 meetings, average attendance: 44 The Yorkshire Area held four meetings in 2009, the at Cardiff’s Boulders centre and two at Swansea’s • Chair: Mike Raine fourth being held in tandem with the AGM. Much Dynamic Rock with an average attendance of 14 of • Secretary: Ray Wood route development has again gone on with new trad people • National Council Representatives: Mike Raine, and sport routes being developed on both gritstone In between meetings we have produced a Ray Wood, Stuart Llewellyn (South) and limestone. newsletter to keep climbers and hill walkers up • Access & Conservation: Pembroke – The big development of the year has been at to date with goings on around Wales and to raise Steve Quinton; South East Wales – John Castlebergh Crag in Settle. This was developed issues for forthcoming meetings. We have also used Cunstance; Gower – Mark Winder; Clwyd - as a result of a unique collaboration with Settle the newsletter as a way of reporting from other Roger Bennion Town Council with a group of eight local climbers meetings rather than take up valuable discussion • Mountain Leader Training Wales: Andy Boorman cleaning up the cliff and transforming it into an time with endless reports of other meetings. The • Mountain Leader Training UK: Neil Johnson excellent climbing venue with 24 high quality newsletter is now professionally translated into • Mountaineering Co-ordination Group: sport routes. Welsh. Attendees at meetings are still able to Mike Raine On the gritstone front an old quarry – Hidden comment on anything raised in the newsletter or • Clubs Representative: Rob Greaves Quarry - at Heptonstall has been cleaned and indeed raise their own issues through an open • Youth Representative: North – Mark Dicken; developed and at the time of writing has 12 routes forum slot at every meeting. We also have a South – Paul Walters but with potential for more. presence on the BMC Website and a regular page • Climbing Wall Representatives: North – There has been some outdoor Youth activity in Summit which different Welsh activists have Gary Morgan; South – Gary Lewis with the first BMC Hill Walking meet for parents contributed to this year. and children, which was held in the Settle Area In March we voted to support the idea of Members 2008 2009 in June. It was a wet day but enjoyed by all climbing becoming an Olympic sport. We No. of clubs in the area 13 16 and there was even some easy cave exploration expressed support for BMC coaching in climbing With club membership of 1,248 1,324 included. Then in July there was a camping awards. Craig y Forwyn left-hand end was opened Share of national clubs 512 584 & climbing meet at Hutton Roof with a day’s and we had to quickly deal with some problems Individual members 2,025 2,409 climbing followed by an easy walk on the Sunday. here, this work is ongoing. Total members in area 3,785 4,317 There have also been developments on the April saw the final of the Welsh Junior climbing wall front with the opening of two new National Climbing Competition held at the bouldering walls in Leeds and a new climbing Beacon nr. Llanberis and another successful wall in Harrogate. Tremadog Festival. Yorkshire Area is pleased to note the current In May we hosted the BMC Family meet freeze on BMC membership subscriptions. This organised by our area Youth Coordinator Mark was suggested to the BMC following a previous Dicken who also ran another successful BMC Area meeting when discussing how to use the Family meet in June. BMC’s surplus. In June the biggest news of the year was the Yorkshire Area Notes appointment of Elfyn Jones as BMC Access and 4 meetings, average attendance: 22. Conservation Officer (Wales). • Chair: David Campbell In August Mynydda was launched at the BMC • Secretary: Deirdre Collier Stand at the National Eisteddfod. Mynydda is the • National Council Representatives: Mick Johnson, translation of MLT’s Hill Walking into Welsh. Deirdre Collier In September we reported the completion of • Access & Conservation – Limestone: the Tremadog Revival project. Rob Greaves was Martin Christmas; Gritstone: Mick Johnson elected to the BMC Clubs Committee. Concern

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BMC annual report.indd 18 3/3/10 09:13:12 Other Reports British Association of of compensation claims demonstrated how judges Safety Adviser in June. Our mountain safety events, Mountain Guides were recognising that in activities carrying an courses and lectures now provide more than 1,000 by Libby Peter, Honorary Secretary inherent level of risk, that competent adults should places available to members and non-members The British Association of Mountain Guides (BMG) be able to make an informed decision as to whether alike, reflecting MCofS’ broader responsibility for has membership of 180 spread between Scotland, to take that risk. the promotion of mountain safety in Scotland. the Lake District, North Wales, the Peak District and Catherine Flitcroft, Access and Conservation We also need to get the message out to visitors to the Alps. Members are involved in guiding, climbing Officer, was also invited to sit on the CCPR led Scotland, where non-residents account for more activities and personal expeditions world-wide, ‘facilities enquiry’, an independent investigation than half of mountain rescue call-outs, so please so have a broad collective experience of mountain exploring the full range of places where people check the mountain safety section of our website for conditions and activities which they are always choose to participate in sport and recreation, up to date information! happy to share. and examining good practice and improvements We worked closely with members of the Scottish 2009 was a year of consolidation for a new that need to be made. The inquiry will make Climbing Wall Network to promote indoor climbing Management Committee, and much emphasis recommendations to ensure that every British and organised an expanded range of MCofS- was placed on renewing our links and exchange of citizen can access affordable and sustainable supported events. We also supported three new dialogue with other Mountain Training bodies. In recreation opportunities. specialist kid’s climbing clubs, which we hope particular, agreement has been reached to review the will form the basis of a new network of kid’s clubs framework of awards in the UK. This coincides with a Mountaineering Council of throughout Scotland. decision by the International Federation for Mountain Scotland Scottish climbers again fared well on the Guide Associations (IFMGA) to review qualifications by Dave Gibson, Chief Officer competition scene, with podium places gained in below the level of International Mountain Guide, The Mountaineering Council of Scotland (MCofS) the Youth Climbing Series, British Bouldering and which follows the agreement by IFMGA members is the only organisation which represents, supports British Lead Competitions. There were outstanding to adopt a revised professional platform, which and promotes Scottish mountaineering. We performances throughout the year from Jonathan was adopted by the 26 member associations in a represent our members and other mountaineers’ Stocking and Natalie Berry. televised signing ceremony in Chambery, France. interests by working with the Scottish Government Finally, it’s worth noting that following We were delighted to present IFMGA carnets to and its national agencies; mountaineering, extensive consultation with members, there six new fully qualified British Guides, including the environmental and land management was significant change in MCofS governance. first female to complete the award for some years, organisations; our network of 135 climbing and hill The MCofS Executive and specialist committees who also happens to be the first second-generation walking clubs, and over 10,500 members. were stood down at the AGM in September, and a British Guide. This marks the end of several years’ Our Access & Conservation work is partly Board of eight directors elected, to be supported hard work for these members and the beginning of supported by the BMC and during 2009 we by specialist advisory groups, responsible for the an exciting new career. were pleased to obtain official acceptance of our development of mountaineering activities. The We also welcomed seven new applications to the guidelines for stalking signage through the National new structure is expected to improve the speed British Guide Scheme, and wish them all the best for Access Forum, which includes representatives of the of decision-making and increase opportunities for the training and assessment over the coming years. majority of Scotland’s land and deer management volunteers to influence and support the work of interests. As a result, hill walkers and climbers MCofS in the future. Central Council of Physical should no longer be subjected to misleading and Recreation intimidatory signage during the stalking season. Mountaineering Ireland The Central Council of Physical Recreation (CCPR) We also made representations to the Scottish by Alan Tees, President is the umbrella body for National Governing Bodies Parliament concerning the impact on wild land Our new name “Mountaineering Ireland” was duly of Sport. made by bulldozed hill tracks. Following a meeting ratified at the 2009 AGM in February. It was felt The CCPR Outdoor Pursuit Division (OPD) met between our Access & Conservation Officer, Hebe that the name “Council” was unnecessary, and three times in 2009 with meetings attended by Carus, and an MSP, questions have been asked that members could more easily identify with the Bill Renshaw, who was elected Deputy Chair, and in Parliament, and at the time of writing we are organisation without it! Our logo also changed Jon Garside, who represented Mountain Leader awaiting the Government’s response. to our new “Milk Carton” design, (but the less said Training England. As Scotland’s wild land comes under increasing about that the better!) In 2009, the OPD and the CCPR Water Recreation pressure from industry, we have continued our Membership remains at around 9,500, and whilst Division decided to revitalise the CCPR Access lobbying against the proposed Beauly-Denny power one or two clubs may have fallen by the wayside, Working Group, under Bill Renshaw’s Chairmanship. line through our membership of the Beauly-Denny there has been a steady increase in individual This group will enable CCPR member organisations Landscape Group. We also consulted with members membership. An exciting new development is the to agree upon a common approach to improving over proposals to open up a number of tracks proposed link with Scouting Ireland, where a scout, access, and allow members to share good practice to vehicle access through Forestry Commission having completed his various scouting outdoor in this area. Bill is the current chair of the BMC’s properties, where the traditional mountaineering awards, will continue, seamlessly, with tailored BOS Access Conservation and Environment Group. principle of ‘the long walk in’ may be subject to (the Irish Mountain training organisation) courses, The CCPR continues to provide support, review in 2010. becoming a Mountaineering Ireland member, and information and a forum for discussion on many We also engaged in a high-profile media debate hopefully a competent mountaineer. aspects of sport and recreation. Issues discussed concerning way marking, and we have maintained The summer alpine meet at Innertkirchen was by the OPD in 2009 have included the various our position against the wholesale way marking of well attended, and for the first time we included a accreditation schemes now operating in the outdoor popular mountains due to a range of safety, access multi-day hut to hut trip to encourage more walkers sector, and the future for existing NGB quality and conservation-related issues. to attend. Registration for courses was slightly assurance schemes. An analysis of recent case law We appointed Heather Morning as Mountain down, due presumably to the recession/

BMC Annual Report 2009 19

BMC annual report.indd 19 1/3/10 16:20:06 of the “Celtic Tiger”. Fortunately the economic valuable updates on current thinking. and Credit Framework. We will be working down turn does not appear to have affected At the beginning of the year the impact of the with Ofqual and other bodies to seek to get our our general funding as seriously as we had financial situation was a slight worry for the Board awards on to that framework as it does enable feared, yet! as there was no way of knowing if there would be some training funding to be accessed by some The new climbers guide to Wicklow appeared a reduction in the number of folks registering for candidates as well as giving us some kudos in the in the summer, the Mournes guide should be award schemes; especially those who are doing eyes of government. I anticipate that it will be a available to purchase in the new year, and the awards out of interest rather than as part of bit like working an 8a… 2010 looks like being yet our quarterly magazine, Irish Mountain Log a career path. In the event our forecasting was another busy year. just seems to get better and better under the a trifle pessimistic. The ML showed a very slight editorship of Patrick O’Sullivan. drop in registrations over 2008, the Climbing Wall Mountain Leader Training The October Meet was in Kerry, ably hosted by Award (CWA) scheme continued to grow and the by Steve Long, Chief Officer Dingle Hill walking club, and we were delighted Single Pitch Award (SPA) even showed a slight Mountain Leader Training has dropped the “UK” to welcome Nick Colton from the BMC, Steve growth (showing that people obviously do still suffix in its communications, to reflect the level Long from MLTUK, Mike Raine from BMC Wales/ climb outdoors sometimes!). The Walking Group of cooperation throughout the UK and Ireland Cymru, and David Gibson from MCofS. The Leader was the only scheme that demonstrated and also to acknowledge the role of the Board in attractions this year were a climbing competition a significant drop and the training boards are assisting the development of qualifications at an in Ireland’s best indoor wall, Dermot Somers as undertaking consultation to see if there are ways international level. guest speaker, and of course Mt Brandon and the of making this award more accessible and ‘fit for The entire portfolio of MLT qualifications has charming village of Dingle itself. purpose’. A major initiative during 2009 was the continued to see good levels of registrations Progress on our five year strategic plan has development of an additional award which can despite the recession. The Climbing Wall Award undoubtedly been set back with the departure act as a ‘bolt-on to the CWA and SPA for those has proved particularly successful, with continued of our chief officer and training officers during who wish to teach the skills of leading on indoor positive feedback from climbing walls and NICAS the year, but a new CO (Karl Boyle) has been walls. All of the Boards worked together on this providers. The remaining section of the project, recruited to start in the new year, and we initiative which should be ready to launch in the proposed Climbing Wall Leading award, are currently interviewing for a replacement early 2010. is almost complete and a series of induction training officer. Of real significance to the work of the Board workshops was provided for prospective course Looking forward to 2010, we have our winter was the bid put in to Sport England for enhanced providers through partnership between all the skills meet in the Alps for the first time, (in March funding support on behalf of the BMC and MLTE; home nation boards over the autumn, ready for at Adamello), it looks like we will all be heading an enormous amount of work went into this bid an early launch in the New Year. for the Ecrins in July, and the October gathering by staff at the BMC offices and the quality of the The publication of a Welsh language version of will be in the Mournes. submission is reflected in its success. From the “Hillwalking” (Mynydda, 2009) was a milestone perspective of MLTE this funding will help with event that has been well received in Wales, and Mountain Leader Training the new initiatives in terms of the Climbing Wall the appointment of both a new officer for MLT England Awards – development of materials and a lot Wales and the BMC Access and Conservation by Andy Say, Executive Secretary more moderation visits - as well as work being Officer (Wales) – both based at our office in When is there ever a year that is not a ‘busy year’? undertaken to try to make the award schemes Siabod Cottage - reflect a positive synergy Mountain Leader Training England (MLTE) has more accessible to non-traditional participants. throughout the UK and Ireland. been working through 2009 with a new award A major initiative this year has been the The Chief Officer continues to chair the to administer, a lot of complicated work with the resurrection of the Disability Awareness/ Climbing UIAA Training Standards Working Group of the Qualifications & Curriculum Authority to do and for All workshops pioneered by Don Mabbs for Mountaineering Commission. Interest in these a renewed emphasis on some of the ‘peripheral’ the then MLTB. Don’s notes had formed the standards continues to grow from all around work of providing additional support and materials basis for the MLTE ‘Climbing for All’ booklet the world, and interest is such that a series of for candidates. but subsequent to his death in 2007 there had meetings have been scheduled for 2010 to look The administration staff continue to do a been a hiatus in this work. In 2009 MLTE and into a viable model for sustaining the activity at sterling job with Cath Luke, Cat Forster and MLTA formed partnerships with some of the its current level. Information about the work of Sam Allfree providing the important first point trainers from the ‘Adventure for All’ organisation, this group can be found on the UIAA website. of contact for many providers, candidates and especially Graeme Hill from Rochdale who MLT has worked in close partnership with the general enquirers (and, yes, we still get enquiries resurrected these workshops. Aimed at SPA BMC to address concerns from some quarters about ratios, equipment, accidents and the holders they give an awareness of the various about the impacts of the proposed coaching weather in Capel Curig). Sam Allfree has now types of disabilities one may encounter and give scheme upon traditional mountaineering values. moved on after nearly two years with us and we suggestions about adapting climbing to enable This reached a satisfactory conclusion and wish her well in her new job. participation from a wide range of people. As meetings have been scheduled for early 2010 In March MLTE staff organised the first of the year drew to a close Michael Hunt, one of the with the group designing the Long Term Athlete a proposed series of ‘all MLT’ Conferences at MLTE board members, had finished the text of Development workshop programme and with a Plas y Brenin. A busy day, with many sessions a companion booklet on ‘Walking for All’ which representative from Mountaineering Ireland to focused on the work of the technical advisor, was MLTE hopes to publish in 2010. ensure harmonisation and to start fleshing out the enjoyed by all. It is, incidentally, a tribute to Plas There is ongoing work being done with the syllabus. y Brenin that despite their staff believing that various bodies that oversee the delivery of MLT has continued to oversee an increasing they were catering for 55 for lunch they actually qualifications within England and Wales. After level of cooperation between all the home fed around 95 delegates and presenters due to a the success of getting the MLT awards onto the nation training boards, which has allowed the rush of late bookings; a true ‘loaves and fishes’ National Qualification Framework we are now development of a new portal website that is moment. These events are invaluable as a means faced with the upcoming termination of that currently in draft form. of getting to know others in the fields and getting system and its replacement with the Qualification MLT has been working closely with its member

20 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 20 3/3/10 09:13:41 organisations: British Mountain Guides, British The value of the skills of MR teams in non- members of the BMC are planned to take place in Association of International Mountain Leaders mountain situations has been recognised the coming year. and the Association of Mountaineering Instructors and deployed more widely during 2009. The 2010 is a critical year for Plas y Brenin as the to build closer relationships between the bodies performance of 15 teams from the Lakes and Mountain Training Trust (MTT) of which the BMC and a greater degree of harmonisation between adjacent regions during the flooding was is an owner, bids to renew its management qualifications. This cooperation will feed into invaluable to the local communities and to the contract with Sport England. Having successfully the review of the Mountaineering Instructor other rescue services. The downside is the cost managed the Centre and enhanced its reputation scheme that we are currently undertaking after of replacing damaged kit which is not catered in the outdoors nationally and internationally for an initial online consultation that elicited over for in normal fundraising. We remain hopeful of the past 13 years MTT has a very strong case for 500 responses. some assistance with this. These events received renewal. The MLT Association has continued to great publicity but there is a regular contribution develop, and membership support for its that does not hit the headlines. In the past Union Internationale des training programme has increased dramatically weeks many teams have been reaching places Associations d’Alpinisme in 2009. Another successful conference was inaccessible to the Ambulance Service because of The BMC continued to be well represented held in the autumn. the weather conditions. within the UIAA and its specialist Commissions MLT assisted the BMC in numerous projects during 2009. during 2009, including regular correspondence Plas y Brenin & Mountain In the course of the year Doug Scott took over with the Technical Committee, staffing on the BMC Training Trust from Mark Vallance as the British delegate on the student seminar and guest appearances at the by Martin Doyle, Chief Executive UIAA Council and was subsequently elected to the PyB Expedition Symposium. In 2009 Plas y Brenin worked closely with the Management Committee as well. Bob Pettigrew BMC contributing to the work of the National came to the end of a 10 year term as President of Mountain Rescue Council Council, Training and Youth Committee and the the UIAA Access Commission in 2009 and was - England & Wales coaching discussions. succeeded by former BMC Access & Conservation by David Allan, Chairman The annual programme of leader and skills Officer Clare Bond. The BMC would like to thank 2009 has been an interesting and challenging year courses saw activity in North Wales, the Scottish both Mark and Bob for their important contributions for mountain rescue teams. The year began with a Highlands as well as ski touring courses in to the UIAA’s work during their periods in office. The return of true winter conditions in North Wales Austria and summer alpine climbing courses in full list of BMC representatives is shown below. and the Lakes. It had been predicted that after Switzerland. Additionally 180 training places were Of note at the October UIAA Council meeting in a number of seasons without these conditions administered and run for the Jonathan Conville Porto was Doug Scott’s input into the development a spate of accidents would happen and so it Memorial Trust in Scotland and France. Over of the UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration. He also turned out. There were a number of long falls 6,000 people attended residential courses. put forward a motion, ‘It is appropriate for the UIAA with serious injuries, and sadly fatalities, which Performance climbing courses are ever more to be known as the guardian of the best traditions presented some difficult rescues. popular being the largest proportion of courses of mountaineering with special emphasis on It was pleasing to see the GPS mapping to members. In August 140 young climbers encouraging, preserving and promoting traditional system that has been developed within Mountain (12 – 17 years) attended climbing improver and rock climbing’, but this was narrowly defeated by Rescue (MR) was proving its worth in desperate performance courses at Plas y Brenin, probably one vote. weather conditions. It has already proved a very the only venue in the country offering the The Mountain Ethics Declaration together with a valuable tool, particularly in searches, but on this opportunity to develop their skills in sport and full report of the UIAA’s work can be found on the occasion on Skiddaw, faced with a combination trad climbing. BMC website. of darkness, high wind, blizzards and hypothermic In April a very successful lively BMC AGM and casualties, it was life saving. dinner was again held at Plas y Brenin with a BMC Support to the UIAA in 2009 The following months have witnessed a steady range of influential guests in attendance. In May • UIAA Management Committee Representative: rise in the number of incidents. In North Wales the UIAA Council held its biannual meeting at Plas Doug Scott and the Peak District the increase has been in the y Brenin hosted by Mark Vallance and Doug Scott • Mountaineering Commission (Training Standards region of 25%. This has also been the experience with delegates coming from as far as India, Iran Group): Steve Long of three Lakes teams although the figures for and Canada. • Access & Conservation Commission: Clare Bond the Lakes overall show a more moderate rise. Following involvement with the BMC and as • Safety Commission: Neville McMillan As we approach the end of the year there is no part of their growing interest in climbing, Dame • Medical Commission: Dave Hillebrandt doubt that one or two teams will be nearing 150 Kelly Holmes and Angela Smith MP took part in • Youth Commission: Anne Arran call outs in the year. It is too soon to be certain climbing courses at the Centre in the summer. of the exact cause of these figures but the simple In November a weekend Mountaineering fact of more people in the hills is a contributor. Expedition seminar filled the Centre and was There are, unhappily, a significant number of supported by various mountaineering figures incidents where the lack of knowledge, basic including Nick Colton and Kenton Cool. kit and common sense are responsible. Mobile Other events in the year included the Welsh phones have proved of enormous value in many dinner of the Climbers’ Club, other climbing club accidents but they do offer an easy alternative to dinners and annual dinners for the Association thinking for those so inclined. of Mountaineering Instructors and the British Although MR teams have responded to this Association of Mountain Guides. In November increased work load without fail, there is real the BMC Cymru/Wales AGM and funday, and the concern about the future if the trend continues. We BMC National council meeting coincided for a hope to work more closely with the BMC during busy day at Plas y Brenin. 2010 to try and address some of these issues. A series of courses aimed at hill walking

BMC Annual Report 2009 21

BMC annual report.indd 21 3/3/10 09:14:11 Club & Associate Members 2009 Club Name No of Members Croydon Mountaineering Club ...... 43 Lancashire Mountaineering Club ...... 175 Aberystwyth Expedition Society ...... 46 Dacorum Adventure Group ...... 40 Lanchester Mountaineering Club ...... 52 ABMSAC-Association of British Members De Montfort Uni (Leics) Mt Club ...... 20 Landlopers Mountain Club ...... 12 of the Swiss Alpine Club ...... 220 Derby Mountaineering Club ...... 37 Lands End Climbing Club ...... 20 AGC Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Derbyshire Pennine Club ...... 54 Leeds Mountaineering Club ...... 137 Aldermaston Mountaineering Club ...... 27 Derwent Mountaineering Club ...... 64 Leeds University Mountaineering Club ...... 100 Allen & Overy Climbing Club ...... 20 Dockyard Ventures ...... 24 Leicester University Mountaineering Club ..... 72 Alpine Club ...... 924 Dorset Youth Climbing Academy ...... 22 Leicestershire Mountaineers Association ...... 10 Alton Mountaineering Club ...... 36 Durham Mountain Sports ...... 48 Lichﬁeld Mountaineering Club ...... 20 AMI (England and Wales) ...... 700 Durham University Mountaineering Club ...... 56 Lincoln Mountaineering Club ...... 49 Anabasis Mountaineering Club ...... 33 Dyﬁ Climbers Club ...... 25 Lindsey Climbing Club ...... 15 Arete Mountaineering Club ...... 21 East Grinstead Climbing Club ...... 29 Liverpool Outdoor Club ...... 20 Avon Mountaineering Club ...... 140 East Pennine Outdoor Club ...... 45 Liverpool University Open Air Club ...... 54 Aylesbury Climbing Club ...... 95 East Yorkshire Mt and Climbing Club ...... 40 LLangorse Mountaineering Club ...... 38 Barnsley Mountaineering Club ...... 63 Eden Valley Mountaineering Club ...... 69 Lloyds TSB Outdoor Sports Club ...... 12 Barrow Mountaineering & Ski Club ...... 88 Edge Hill University Climbing and London Mountaineering Club ...... 420 Basingstoke Climbing Club ...... 35 Mountaineering Club ...... 20 London Rockhoppers MC ...... 171 Bath University Mountaineering Club ...... 117 ELC Hill Walking Club ...... 31 Loughborough Students Mt Club ...... 95 Battle Climbing Club ...... 19 Exeter University Climbing Club ...... 140 Loughton Mountaineering Club ...... 34 Bedford Mountaineering Club ...... 32 Exploration Group of North Somerset ...... 92 Lymm High School ...... 10 Bedroc ...... 93 Forest of Dean Hillwalkers ...... 14 MACS (Royal Holloway Uni of London) ...... 20 Beeston Hill & Mt Cb - Formerly Siemens ...... 37 Frayednotts Mountaineering Club ...... 28 Maidstone Mountaineering Club ...... 26 Bewdley & District Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Free Barbarian Climbing Club ...... 22 Malvern Mountaineering Club ...... 20 BHMC - Bassetlaw Hill & Mountain Club ...... 44 Fylde Mountaineering Club ...... 162 Manchester Metropolitan Mountaineering ..... 20 Bournemouth University Climbing Club ...... 51 G S Exiles Mountaineering Club ...... 24 Manchester University Mt Club ...... 100 Bowline Climbing Club ...... 131 Gentian Mountaineering Club ...... 61 Marylebone Mountaineering Club ...... 87 Bremex Mountaineering & Climbing Club ...... 20 Gloucestershire Mountaineering Club ...... 104 Mercian Mountaineering Club ...... 51 Brighton University Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Goats Mountaineering Club ...... 30 Merseyside Mountaineering Club ...... 199 British Airways Mt Walking & Trekking Cl ...... 45 Gorphwysfa Club ...... 55 Midland Association of Mountaineers ...... 551 Bromsgrove & Redditch Mt Club ...... 42 Gritstone Club ...... 118 Milton Keynes Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Buxton Mountaineering Club ...... 60 Guernsey Mountaineering Club ...... 31 MMU Cheshire Climbing Club ...... 20 Calderdale Mountaineering Club ...... 41 Guildford Mountaineering Club ...... 67 Mountaineering Club of Bury ...... 39 Cambridge Climbing & Caving Club ...... 79 Gwent Mountaineering Club ...... 115 Mountaineering Club of North Wales ...... 66 Cambridge University Hillwalking Club ...... 162 Gwydyr Mountain Club ...... 97 MPMC LTD ...... 54 Cambridge University Mt Club ...... 18 Hampshire Mountaineering Association ...... 30 Munro-pineapple Society Notts Univ ...... 31 Cardiff University Mountaineering Club ...... 68 Harpenden Expedition Club ...... 31 Mynydd Climbing Club ...... 202 Carlisle Mountaineering Club ...... 104 Hastings Rock & Fell Club ...... 64 Newbury Mountain Club ...... 65 Castle Mountaineering Club ...... 45 Hereford Climbing Club ...... 33 Newcastle University Mt Club ...... 20 Cedars Mountaineering Club ...... 14 Hereford Mountain Club ...... 44 Newton Rigg Mountain Activities Club ...... 52 Cerberus Spelaeological Society ...... 20 Heron Outdoor Pursuits ...... 37 Nimrod Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Ceunant Mountaineering Club ...... 140 Hertfordshire Mountaineering Club ...... 108 Nor’ West Sgurramblers ...... 25 Chamois Mountaineering Club ...... 215 Herts and Essex Climbing Club ...... 33 Norfolk Hillwalking Club ...... 34 Charlotte Mason Mountainerring Club ...... 41 Highdown Hillwalking & Mountaineering North East Wales Mountaineering Club ...... 30 Chelmsford Mountaineering Club ...... 79 Club ...... 52 North Kingston Hillwalking Club ...... 38 Chester Great Outdoors Club ...... 94 Hillingdon Mountaineering Club ...... 28 North Leicestershire Mountain Club ...... 25 Chester Mountaineering Club ...... 222 Hinckley Mountaineering Club ...... 88 North London Mountaineering Club ...... 209 Christian Rock & Mountain Club ...... 92 Ibex ...... 89 North Yorkshire Fell Club ...... 47 Clare Rats (Rock & Trek Society) ...... 8 Imperial College Union Outdoors Club ...... 20 Northumbrian Mountaineering Club ...... 251 Cleveland Mountaineering Club ...... 184 Imperial Medics Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Norwich Climbing & Mountaineering Club ..... 34 Cliffhangers Climbing Club ...... 26 Innominata Mountain Club ...... 70 Not So Trad - Southern Lesbian & Gay Climbers Climbers’ Club ...... 1,406 Ipswich Mountaineering Club ...... 118 83 Climbers Section - Cave & Crag Club ...... 38 Jersey Rock Climbing Club ...... 34 Not The MLC Mountaineering Club ...... 17 Clingons Climbing Club ...... 23 John Clare Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Nuneaton Mountaineering Club ...... 31 Clitheroe Mountaineering Club ...... 67 Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland ...... 37 Ohjac Club ...... 16 Clogwyn Mountaineering Club ...... 44 K Fellfarers ...... 138 Open University Mountaineering Society ...... 76 Clwb Mynydda Cymru ...... 288 Karabiner Mountaineering Club ...... 130 Oread Mountaineering Club ...... 179 Clwyd Mountaineering Club ...... 89 Keele University Mountaineering Club ...... 53 Osler Rock Climbing Club ...... 10 Colchester Climbing Club ...... 103 Kendal Mountaineering Club ...... 51 Out There ...... 60 Congleton Mountaineering Club ...... 34 Kernow Climbing Club ...... 15 Outdoor Network ...... 55 COPA ...... 61 Keswick Mountaineering Club ...... 85 Over The Hill Club ...... 119 Coventry Mountaineering Club ...... 48 Kings College London Mountaineering Club .. 73 Oxford Mountaineering Club ...... 110 Cragrats Mountaineering Club ...... 16 Kingston University Mt Club ...... 20 Oxford University Mountaineering Club ...... 152 Craven Mountaineering Club ...... 85 Kodak Walking & Climbing Club ...... 15 Patterdale Mountain Rescue Association ...... 30 Cromlech Club ...... 75 Lancashire Caving & Climbing Club ...... 215 Peak Climbing Club ...... 54 22 BMC Annual Report 2009

BMC annual report.indd 22 1/3/10 16:20:31 Pembrokeshire Climbing Club ...... 80 Univ of Birmingham Mt Club ...... 86 Local Authority: Peterborough Hospitals Walking Club ...... 15 Univ of Bristol Explorers Club ...... 57 • Wirksworth Leisure Centre Peterborough Mountaineering Club ...... 155 Univ of Essex Mountaineering Club ...... 55 • West Sussex County Council Phoenix Mountaineering Club ...... 36 Univ of Glamorgan Climbing & Mt Club ...... 20 Pinnacle Club ...... 141 Univ of Huddersﬁeld M’tng Club ...... 32 Mountain Rescue: Polaris Mountaineering Club ...... 56 Univ of Kent at Canterbury Mt C ...... 35 • Lake District Mt Rescue Association Powsers Mountaineering Club ...... 39 Univ of London Graduate Mt Club ...... 142 • Cockermouth Mountain Rescue Team Preston Mountaineering Club ...... 70 Univ of London Mountaineering Club ...... 38 • RAF Mountain Rescue Service Reading Mountaineering Club ...... 103 Univ of Nottingham Mt Club ...... 38 Reading University Mountaineering Club .... 130 Univ of Surrey Mt Club ...... 68 Multi Activity Groups: Red Rope Walking & Climbing Club ...... 294 Univ of Sussex Mountaineering Club ...... 20 • Eldon Leisure Centre Robinwood Mountaineering Club ...... 48 University of Bolton Climbing & Walking Club 44 • Swaledale Outdoor Club Rock & Heather Club - Nottingham ...... 25 University of Chester Mountaineering Club ... 15 • Bicton College Rock Chicks Climbing Club ...... 20 University of Hertfordshire Mt Club ...... 20 • The Old Vicarage Adventure Centre Romsey Climbers ...... 29 University of Manchester Hiking Club ...... 140 • The Bendrigg Trust Royal Air Force Mountaineering Association 287 UWFRA Outdoors Club ...... 50 • Water Park (Eric Wright Trust) Royal Navy & Royal Marines Mt Club ...... 660 Vagabond Mountaineering Club ...... 83 • Portsmouth Youth Activities Committee Royal Veterinary College Mt Club ...... 38 Vertically Challenged Climbing Club ...... 23 • Avon Outdoor Activities Club Rucksack Club ...... 398 Vibram Mountaineering Club ...... 48

Rugby Mountaineering Club ...... 48 W.T.F.A.I. Club ...... 24 National Body: Salford University Mountaineering Soc...... 98 Walking & Adventure Group (WAG) ...... 26 • Fire Service Sport & Athletics Ass’n Saltley Hillwalking Group ...... 17 Wanneys Climbing Club ...... 31 • British Association of Mountain Guides Sandstone Climbing Club ...... 32 Warwick Climbing Club ...... 87 • Lake District National Park Authority Scunthorpe Mountaineering Club ...... 20 Wayfarers ...... 196 • Scout Association Shefﬁeld Hallam University Climbing Club .... 20 Wellingborough Mountaineering Club ...... 60 • The Ramblers Shrewsbury Mountaineering Club ...... 105 Wessex Mountaineering Club ...... 223

Skyline Mt Club - Burton on Trent ...... 25 West Bromwich Mountaineering Club ...... 215 Other: Slough Mountaineering Group ...... 48 West Cumbria Mountaineering Club ...... 58 • Outdoor Industries Association Solihull (Police) Mountaineering Club ...... 20 West Lancashire County Scouts Mt Group ..... 20 • Barclays Bank R and C Club (BBRCC) Solihull Mountaineering Club ...... 84 Wok and Rice Club ...... 10 • Simonside Youth Initiative Centre South Cheshire Climbing Club ...... 29 Wolverhampton Mountaineering Club ...... 76 • Outdoor Training/Expeditions: South Devon Mountaineering Club ...... 95 Worcester Mountaineering Club ...... 40 South Wales Mountaineering Club ...... 174 Wrekin Mountaineering Club ...... 99 • Northants C & YPS South Yorkshire Police Mountaineering ...... 20 Yeovil Mountaineering Club ...... 40 • Rhos-y-Gwaliau Outdoor Education Cent Southampton Rats Climbing Club ...... 50 Yeti Club ...... 21 • Peak Training For Management Ltd Southern Trekking & Mountaineering Club ..... 77 York Alpine Club ...... 55 • Northants Asso Yth Clubs & Action C Southﬁelds Mountain Sports Club ...... 53 York Mountaineering Club ...... 80 • Calshot Activities Centre Sphinx Mountaineering Club ...... 28 York St John Climbing Club ...... 51 • Fairbridge St Helens Mountaineering Club ...... 67 Yorkshire Mountaineering Club ...... 195 • PGL Travel Ltd Staffordshire Police Mt Club ...... 20 Yorkshire Ramblers Club ...... 175 • Joint Services Mt Training Centre Staffordshire University M.C ...... 40 Yorkshire Walkers & Climbers Club ...... 20 • YHA Edale Stoke Damerel Climbing Club ...... 82 Yr Hafod Scout Mountaineering Fellowship ... 22 • Nantmor Mountain Centre Assoc Sunderland Mountaineering Club ...... 32 • Maes Y Lade Outdoor Education Centre Super Drooper Mountaineering & Caving ...... 37 • Adventure Dolphin Surbiton & Kingston Mt Club ...... 35 295 Clubs • Consett YMCA Ltd Swansea University Mountaineering Club ..... 30 24, 260 Club Members • In2venture Swindon Mountaineering Club ...... 34 • Whickham Thorns Outdoor Activity Centre Taunton Trailblazers ...... 12 • Manor Adventure Thames Valley Climbing Club ...... 40 BMC ASSOCIATE ORGANISATIONS • Hagg Farm Outdoor The Barcap Climbing Club ...... 22 BY TYPE • Calvert Trust Adventure Centre The Chapel Mountaineering Club ...... 34 Climbing Walls: The Fell and Rock Climbing Club of the • Entre-Prises (UK) Ltd Trader: English Lake District Limited ...... 1,172 • Roeﬁeld Leisure Centre • Allcord The Foundry Academy ...... 32 • The Ackers • Climb UK Ltd The Heights Climbing Club ...... 28 • Urdd Gobaith Cymru • D R International Climbing Walls Ltd The LMC Mountaineering Club ...... 23 • Upper Limits • Bendcrete Climbing Walls The Mill Climbing Club ...... 42 • Llangorse Rope Centre • Inglesport The Mountain Club - Stafford ...... 49 • Westway Sports Centre • Lyon Equipment Ltd The Outcasts ...... 30 • The Castle Climbing Centre The South Face Climbing Club ...... 15 • Arethusa Climbing Wall Youth/Schools/Groups: The Walking Club ...... 60 • King Kong Climbing Walls Ltd • Herts Young Mariners Base The Warminster Adventure Sports Club ...... 33 • Mile End Climbing Wall • Highgate School D O E Scheme Trentham Outdoor Pursuits Club ...... 20 • Bourne End Junior Sports Club • Oundle School Mountaineering Club Tuesday Climbing Club ...... 51 • Kirklees Active Leisure • Air Training Corps Tunbridge Wells Mountaineering Club ...... 51 • The Mill Adventure Centre Ltd • St Albans School Tyne Valley Mountaineers ...... 20 • Undercover Rock Ltd • Portsmouth Grammar School Unemployed climbers Club (Craggers) ...... 64 • West View Leisure Centre • The College of St Mark & St John BMC Annual Report 2009 23

BMC annual report.indd 23 1/3/10 16:20:41 BMC Annual Report 2009

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BMC annual report.indd 24 1/3/10 16:20:49