Summer 2018 €3.95 UK£3.40 ISSN 0790 8008 Issue 126

Galtees Gathering Hillwalking Committee re-established

Celebrating the Comeraghs Special places in the Waterford range

www..ie

A journey through time and history on the island of Inis Mór

Autumn Festival: October 5th, 6th and 7th, 2018 Mountaineering continues to provide the book service previously operated by . We can supply you with guidebooks and maps to almost any part of the world. For the walker, there is a large collection of Cicerone guides and books, or the wider selection of books and guides distributed by Cordee which also includes many guides. Books reviewed in the Irish Log can usually be purchased through Joss Books with a members’ discount. To place an order, ring the office on (01) 6251115 or email Escape into the past and join Michael [email protected]. Gibbons and Michael Moylan on an archaeological and historical journey through the ages on the island of Inis Mór in the Aran Islands, Co For further information and booking details Log on to: www.oldeworldtours.com Phone: Michael Moylan 087 176 8533 Michael Gibbons 095 21379 Email: [email protected] Photo: Patrice78500 Photo: Photo: Chris Hill (Tourism Ireland) Chris Hill (Tourism Photo: 2 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 A word from the edItor

ISSUE 126 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Welcome Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and elcome to the Summer registered in , No 199053. Registered office: Irish Sport HQ, 2018 issue of the Irish National Sports Campus, Mountain Log. It has been a , Dublin 15, Ireland. very busy time for Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 Mountaineering Ireland don’t forget to visit the website Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 Wsince the hugely successful AGM and Spring [email protected] to give your consent to continue www.mountaineering.ie Gathering in March in the Glen of Aherlow. ❝ Thanks to Climbing Club for a great receiving the Irish Mountain Log Hot Rock weekend! Following a motion that was Tollymore Mountain Centre passed at that AGM, a working group has the Known, thanks to the publishers, WW Bryansford, Newcastle been established to develop the terms of Norton and Company. That book is reviewed County Down, BT33 0PT Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 in our books section (see page 61). reference for a Hillwalking Committee and an [email protected] initial work plan for that committee. The new In the features, we look at the joys of committee will support and develop walking in the Comeraghs, of variously Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan hillwalking in Ireland. completing the Tour du , of Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) At the same time, Mountaineering Ireland climbing with a baby and of exploring ’s [email protected] Literary Editor: Peter O’Neill has recently become affiliated to the Mount Damavand. [email protected] Olympic Council of Ireland on the basis that Finally, while it may seem we have been Features Editor: Aisling Spain will be one of the disciplines hearing a lot about data protection recently, [email protected] competing in the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. This as the responsible custodians of members’ The Irish Mountain Log is published by is a very important development for the personal data Mountaineering Ireland has to Mountaineering Ireland four times a sport of climbing in Ireland. ensure that it has members’ permission to year, in March, June, September, Then, while all this has been going on, and send them information in future. This December. The material published in after a year-long consultation, a new information includes copies of the Irish the Log by the voluntary editorial team Strategic Plan was finalised and launched by Mountain Log, so it is important that all and contributors must not be taken as members visit the Members & Clubs section official Mountaineering Ireland policy the new Mountaineering Ireland Board of unless specifically stated. Directors on Monday, June 25th, 2018. of our website to give their consent to With all of this news, some updates, the receiving information from Mountaineering Copy deadline for the Autumn 2018 features and our regular items, we have Ireland in the future (see page 6). issue of the Irish Mountain Log is Friday, th another very full issue of the Irish Mountain We can only hope that we will continue to August 17 2018. have a good summer this year, with lots of Log. There are also a couple of competitions: Advertising: [email protected] a crossword competition for a pair of Merrell opportunities to safely enjoy the wonderful shoes kindly donated by Basecamp (see page Irish uplands. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn, 59) and the chance to win one of three [email protected] copies of David Roberts’ new book, Limits of Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020

Write for the Log PARTICIPATION AND RISK Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are  reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal Contributions of features, news items and photographs for injury or death. Participants in these the Irish Mountain Log are always welcome and should be activities should be aware of and sent to the Editor at: [email protected]. accept these risks, and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the promotes safety and good practice Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie. advice and through the Mountain ON THE COVER Training Board of Ireland administers a range of training programmes for To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the walking in the Glounreagh river valley in Irish Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please the Galtee during the Spring walkers and climbers. also go to the website, www.mountaineering.ie. Gathering in march.

PHOTOGRAPH PAUl KellAGher

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 3 CONTENTS Summer 2018

Upper Glenasmole Reservoir, Co Dublin. The mountain lands above the reservoir are now part of National Park (see story, page 24).

News 17 The man who made ‘Friends’ Features 5 How GDPR affects you Patrick O’Sullivan reports 36 Celebrating the Comeraghs Ruth Whelan reports 18 Clean-ups by hillwalking groups By Michael O’Donoghue 6 Strategic Plan 2018-2021 Avril McAllister and Glenwalk report 40 The Mont Blanc Tour New Board launches plan 19 Club support meetings By Declan Alcock 7 Mountaineering Ireland 20 Bolted climbs at Altnadue 44 The Mont Blanc Tour: joins Olympic movement Kevin Kilroy reports another view 8 Spring Gathering 2018 20 Success at Edinburgh By Michael Guilfoyle David McDonnell reports Damien O’Sullivan reports 46 Climbing with baby 10 Treasurer’s AGM Report 21 Meet 2018 By John McCabe By Nicky Hore John Orr reports 50 Iran’s highest peak 11 Autumn Gathering 2018 22 Donegal Climbfest 2018 By Padraig Hogan Galway Walking Club reports Geoff Thomas reports 12 Active School Walkway 22 Report your lizard sightings Regulars initiative launched Kieran Flood reports 54 Access & Conservation Jason King reports 23 New members of staff Helen Lawless reports 14 Reading the landscape 56 Training Dr Siobhán Power reports News Features Jane Carney reports 15 The UIAA Mountain 60 Books Protection Commission 24 Wild, but close to Dublin Reviews of recent publications Michael Maunsell reports Cóilín MacLochlainn reports on a recent National Parks acquisition 65 The Last Word 16 The Uplands Partnership Elizabeth Healy, William Hannon 26 Hiking on La Gomera Management Board Patrick O’Sullivan describes a Helen Lawless reports walking holiday in the Canaries 16 Hillwalking working group 28 World Cup Ruth Whelan reports A report from Eimir McSwiggan 58 The new instructor award Liam McCarthy reports Climbing 30 NI Youth Programme Kevin Conroy reports 32 2018 Youth Climbing Series Alison Treacy reports

34 Camp Kevin Kilroy leading Keira Blaquez-Burke reports Penny Black in the Mournes Pinnacle of volcanic origin on La Gomera Training Opportunities 26 CANARIES WALKING HOLIDAYS 35 Adventure degree 30 NI YOUTH CLIMBING PROGRAMME

Photographs: Cóilín MacLochlainn (Glenasmole), Patrick O’Sullivan (La Gomera), Craig Hiller (Kevin Kilory on Penny Black) on Penny Kilory (Kevin Hiller Craig (La Gomera), O’Sullivan Patrick (Glenasmole), Cóilín MacLochlainn Photographs: A report from GMIT 4 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Staff & Board General enquirieS [email protected]

Staff Chief executive Officer Newsdesk Murrough McDonagh, [email protected] administration Officer Siobhán Quinn, [email protected] How GDPR affects members Membership Development Officer Ruth Whelan, [email protected] Hillwalking, access IMPORTANT: To make sure you continue to & Conservation Officer receive relevant information from Helen Lawless, [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland, and your copies training Officer Jane Carney, [email protected] of the Irish Mountain Log, please follow training Office administrator the instructions below. Laura Griffin, [email protected] talent Development Officer By Ruth Whelan (Membership Development Officer) Damien O’Sullivan, [email protected] Youth Development Officer for You may be aware that the General northern ireland Data Protection Regulation (GDPR) Kevin Kilroy, [email protected] came into force on May 25th, 2018, Project Coordinator, indoor replacing the existing data Climbing/Social inclusion Project protection framework under the Natasza Berlowska, EU Data Protection Directive. [email protected] Your trust is important to us, so keeping your personal information Get irelanD WalkinG initiative safe and secure remains our top Programme Manager, Get ireland Walking Jason King, [email protected] priority. These changes will have an administration Officer, Get ireland Walking impact on how Mountaineering Sarah Rossiter, [email protected] Ireland, at all levels, engages with Project Coordinator – Men’s Sheds its members. It is important that Project all members are aware of how the changes in the law will affect the ways in which Emer O’Leary, [email protected] members’ personal information is collected and used. All members can update the personal details they have given to Mountaineering MOuntaineerinG irelanD Ireland and change their consent status by logging on to their account in the BOarD OffiCerS Members section of the Mountaineering Ireland website www.mountaineering.ie. President Paul Kellagher To log on, go to www.mountaineering.ie/membersandclubs/memberlogon and [email protected] enter your email address and password. If you have any difficulty logging on, please Chairperson contact your club secretary or contact [email protected] or the Paul Barron Mountaineering Ireland office on 01 625 1115. [email protected] Once logged in, you will find the page with your personal details. You should check that these details are correct and, if not, amend any errors. At the bottom of the BOarD MeMBerS personal details box, you are offered these options: Imelda Buckley [email protected] I would like to receive information via email from Mountaineering Ireland to Helen Donoghue  keep up to date with news and information. (Chair of Access & Conservation Committee) [email protected] Trish Kane In addition to receiving general communications from us, please let us know how [email protected] else you would like to hear from us: Colette Mahon [email protected]  By post (includes to receive Irish Mountain Log) Michael Maunsell  By phone [email protected] Gráinne McLaughlin Please click the ‘by post’ option to continue receiving your copies of the Irish [email protected] Mountain Log. Clare O’Connor [email protected] Irene Sorohan Mountaineering Ireland has developed a guidebook for Mountaineering Ireland [email protected] affiliated clubs to provide them with clear guidance on how to ensure they are Dawson Stelfox compliant with the new data protection regulation. The guidebook can be accessed (Chair of Mountain Training Board Ireland) at: www.mountaineering.ie/membersandclubs/GDPRAndMembers. [email protected] Geoff Thomas Please read the full details of our privacy policy at: [email protected] www.mountaineering.ie/AboutUs/DataProtection. Simon Walsh (Chair of Climbing Committee) [email protected] Thank you for being a member of Mountaineering Ireland! ■ Photograph: Cóilín MacLochlainn Photograph: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 5 NEWSL0G

Mountaineering Ireland launches strategic plan

The Board of Mountaineering Ireland launched Strategic Plan 2018-2021 at its meeting on June 25th. This followed a far-reaching consultation with the members and other interested parties, and feedback on the draft plan from members at the Spring Gathering in March. The launch of this new strategy was the final step in a year-long process that had seen engagement with the membership, partners and other stakeholders in the development of the plan. The strategy provides a road-map for Mountaineering Ireland to follow in the next four years. It covers the five key strategic Mountaineering Ireland Board (from left): Paul Barron (Chairperson), Irene Sorohan, Geoff Thomas, Imelda Buckley, pillars identified during the Gráinne McLaughlin, Paul Kellagher (President), Trish Kane, Helen Donoghue, Colette Mahon, Simon Walsh. The Board members who were not present are Clare O’Connor, Michael Maunsell and Dawson Stelfox. consultation process by Mountaineering Ireland’s clubs and members. A working group will be and Mountaineering Scotland. support the delivery of this At the launch, Paul Kellagher, created to oversee the We gathered a great deal of plan to the benefit of our President of Mountaineering implementation of the information and under the membership and all aspects of Ireland, welcomed the new strategic plan and it will report direction of a Steering Group our sport.” Strategic Plan, saying: “It gives on its progress at regular appointed by the intervals to the Board. Mountaineering Ireland Board, FIND OUT MORE: Strategic Plan clear focus to our values of 2018-21 can be downloaded as a adventure, personal Murrough McDonagh, CEO of and led by Maeve Buckley pdf from bit.ly/2zgtkNs ■ responsibility, respect, well- Mountaineering Ireland, said: “I from Line-Up Consultants, this being and partnership. The want to thank all of those who process was guided to a plan is supported by a robust contributed to the strategic successful outcome.” operational plan, which will planning process: the He added: “This new allow us to deliver high-quality Mountaineering Ireland Board strategy will remain an active services to our members to of Directors, the staff, club and live document up until its support hillwalking and officials and volunteers, natural conclusion in 2021 and, climbing. This is a special day attendees at our regional with the support of our clubs, for Mountaineering Ireland and meetings, respondents to the volunteers, providers, working I look forward to seeing the online survey, our funders, groups, sub-committees, aims of the plan being partners and other Board members and staff all achieved over the next number stakeholders, those involved in working together, I am positive of years.” mountain training, the BMC that we will have the ability to STRATEGIC OVERVIEW VISION: Our vision is that hillwalkers and climbers will become more skilled, self-reliant and informed, that access will be improved, and that our mountain landscapes will be valued and protected. We aim to inspire all who engage in hillwalking and climbing throughout the island of Ireland, and encourage adventure and exploration in the mountains of the world.

STRATEGIC PILLARS To promote responsible To promote mountain To strive for improved and To be a voice for the To undertake a participation in all aspects training and skills assured access for responsible protection of modernisation of mountaineering development hillwalkers and climbers mountain landscapes programme STRATEGIC OBJECTIVES

6 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Mountaineering Ireland joins Olympic movement Olympic Council of Ireland recognises Mountaineering Ireland as national sport climbing body.

By Patrick O’Sullivan

Mountaineering Ireland officially became affiliated to the Olympic Council of Ireland (OCI) and the World Olympic movement at the OCI AGM, held at the National Sports Campus, Dublin, on Thursday, June 21st. President of the Olympic Council of Ireland, Sarah Keane, welcomed Mountaineering Ireland to the Olympic family as the representative body for sport climbing, which is one of the additional disciplines to be added to the programme for the Olympic Games to be held in Tokyo in 2020. The thirty-one out of the thirty-four sports federations affiliated to the OCI who were present at the AGM unanimously welcomed Mountaineering Ireland into the Pictured at the official affiliation of Mountaineering Ireland to the Olympic movement (from left): Murrough Olympic family as well. McDonagh (CEO, Mountaineering Ireland), Terry O’Connor (Head Coach, Mountaineering Ireland), Sarah Keane (President, Olympic Council of Ireland), Mountaineering Ireland Talent Develoment Squad members Matthew Youth Climbing Team Coach Smith, Sean O’Connor and Jessica McGarry, Peter Sherrard (CEO, OCI) and John Treacy (CEO, Sport Ireland). Terry O’ Connor and Youth Climbing Team members “We must continue to Olympic Council of Ireland and Mountaineering Ireland Jessica McGarry, Matthew support and develop the having sport climbing on the supports young climbers who Smith and Sean O’Connor were excellent work being done from programme for the Olympic want to improve their present at the momentous grassroots to high performance Games in Tokyo was great for performance levels by occasion, together with level by our dedicated the sport. “We can see, on a providing the opportunity to Mountaineering Ireland’s Chief volunteers in clubs and monthly basis, the growing join the Climbing Development Executive Officer, Murrough Squad. McDonagh. Development Squads, to interest and the increasing Representatives of ONAKAI ensure that those wishing to numbers of young people take up the sport have the going into climbing walls and FIND OUT MORE: For more (Karate Ireland) and Softball information on getting involved, Ireland were also present on opportunity to do so and that taking up the sport. To see so please visit www.mountaineering.ie/ behalf of other new sports that those wishing to advance many of our athletes compete Climbing ■ have been included in the within the sport have the at the highest levels, at both schedule for Tokyo 2020. support they need,” he said. youth and junior levels in Speaking at the event, Under the leadership of the European and World Mountaineering Ireland CEO International Federation of Championship events, is Murrough McDonagh said it Sports Climbing (IFSC), extremely rewarding for all was a special and important competition (or sport) climbing involved,” he said. day for everyone involved in has been included in the line- Indoor climbing has climbing on the island of up for the Tokyo Olympics. The experienced a boom over the Ireland. “Mountaineering Ireland format for competition past decade, seeing a massive is now a full member of the climbing in Tokyo will follow a increase in the number of Olympic movement. Sport combined format of the three people participating and climbing is on the schedule for competition climbing soaring levels of performance. Tokyo 2020 and there is a disciplines: lead, speed and Globally, it is estimated that strong possibility it will be bouldering. over 35 million people included in the programmes for Mountaineering Ireland’s participate in indoor climbing the Paris 2024 and Los Angeles Head Coach, Terry O’Connor, and that the average age of 2028 Olympic Games. said that being a part of the those participants is 23 years. Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 7 Photograph: Noel Culbert 8 either. We weren’t disappointed by registrations and the weather. kept a close eye on the weekend approached we knowledge and experience. As than willing to share their close friends of the club, more Maureen O’Brien, night with chosen speakers for the Friday leaders willing to participate. walks, with no shortage of club Tom O’Brien, coordinator was appointed, access from the Glen. A walk walking options with easy would provide plenty of the Gathering. The Galtees Tipperary, as the location for in the Glen of Aherlow, Co Aherlow House Hotel & Lodges the 2018 Spring Gathering! we were in planning mode for in 2018 and, before we knew it, celebrating its 35 Gathering?” interested in hosting a Limerick Climbing Club be another question, “Would Gathering? She replied with Mountaineering Ireland involved in hosting a Conservation Officer, what was Hillwalking, Access & Mountaineering Ireland’s asked Helen Lawless, East workday, we innocently At a Mountain Meitheal South The SpringGathering took placein the Glenof Aherlow, Co Tipperary, inMarch. Spring Gathering: a report from the host club NEWS We were fortunate in our We quickly decided on Our club would be Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish Jimmy Barry LOG to coordinate the th who are loves it! Ireland and abroad for over thirty years and still Limerick in 2009. He has been hiking all over been a member of the club since he returned to Chairperson of Limerick Climbing Club. He has AUTHOR: anniversary and David McDonnell McDonnell, Club. A truly memorable weekend was had by everyone who attended. Here,beauty of the Galtees, and the variety of walks led by members of theHouse Limerick Hotel, Climbing club, Gathering due to a combination of factors, which included the enthusiasm of the host 25 Mountaineering Ireland’s 2018 Spring Gathering took place over the weekend of March 23- th showing the mountains in all greeted with blue skies walks and the workday were and twenty participants in the undertake. Over one hundred insight into the work they workday to give people an Meitheal South East departing at 8.30am. walk start-points, the first buses departing to the various An early start on Saturday saw Saturday in the year. Limerick Climbing Club earlier proceeds of a quiz night run by with a cheque for €750, the opportunity to present SEMRA great to be able to take the and area of operation. It was good overview of their work volunteer, and they gave us a Rescue Association (SEMRA) South Eastern Mountain Maureen O’Brien, landscape with us. passion for the Galtee shared his appreciation and through the Galtee mountains, Galtee Skies: a pictorial journey well and is author of man who knows the Galtees attendance, evening ahead. To a large we then prepared for the those who arrived early, and walk around Slievenamuck for Friday kicked off with an easy Friday night in the Glen of Aherlow, below the beautiful Galtee Mountains. It was a very enjoyable Limerick Climbing Club, Jimmy was then joined by Chairperson of Limerick Climbing Club, reviews the Gathering weekend. is currently the the superb weather on the Saturday, which allowed us to appreciate the Jimmy Barry, a fellow Under also ran a Mountain a the excellent service and facilities provided by the over a quiet drink or two. continued late into the night others the conversation some it was early to bed; for fantastic scenery enjoyed. For the day’s exertions and the day were shown, a reminder of some of the photos from the great food. In the background their top-class service and hotel didn’t disappoint with sat down to dinner, and the Ireland AGM, meal that evening. building up an appetite for the had a fabulous day’s hiking, tops through the snow; we added bonus of traversing the Galtymore, there was the their splendour. Members’ Forum, Mountaineering Ireland On Sunday, after a lively Sunday dnto o €5 (asd n cu qi ngt fo Limerick from night) quiz club Climbing Clubmembers Frank a McMahon andDavid McDonnell. in (raised €750 of donation a Jimmy Barry, left, and Maureen O’Brien on behalf of SEMRA accept After the For the walks that took in Mountaineering over 170 people a number of or at a Gathering in the future! will cross on some mountain No doubt many of our paths travelled, a special thank you. addition, to everyone that workshops on Sunday. In to those who hosted the led walks on the Saturday and the Friday night, to those who support, to the speakers on thanks to Ruth Whelan for her great experience. Special hosting the Gathering was a walk in the local woodlands. some members on a birding BirdWatch Ireland of Limerick branch of workshop, while two members trainer, ran a Mountain Skills Mountain Leader and Skills Julie Reeves, Club Development workshop; Development Officer, led a Ruth Whelan, workshops were organised. For Limerick Climbing Club. a qualified the Membership David Summer 2018 Summer brought Aherlow On a hillwalk during the Gathering. On an ascent of Galtymore during the Gathering.

Members’ Forum pages 8-9). No lengthy discussion on this Clubs need to be trying Mountaineering Ireland funds topic. It was suggested that actively to recruit new By Patrick O’Sullivan go into supporting Get Ireland it was not a lack of interest in members, and various Walking. the sport among young strategies were suggested, The Members’ Forum on the It was highlighted that the people but rather that they including ‘bring a friend’ days, Sunday morning was well number of people engaging in don’t walk regularly or feel targeting young people in attended and valuable, with activities on the hills the need to be part of a club. college or when they are many different members continues to increase and We should also recognise leaving college, having a contributing to the discussion that guiding the development that clubs go through a cycle separate youth section in the across a variety of topics. of hillwalking, protecting the and that new clubs will be club, giving presentations environment and maintaining Mountaineering Ireland’s formed as older clubs stop about club activities in their access all need to be Draft Strategic Plan was growing. There is also a local area, or targeting people addressed in our Strategic debated at length. There was natural cycle for individuals, who are hillwalking but not Plan. Debate on challenge much discussion about the with younger people members of a club. walks ranged from the value wording of the purpose, vision, socialising, then settling It was highlighted by of these events in terms of down and having families, various speakers that values and strategic pillars, sociability and introducing before coming back to the mountaineering is a lifelong the core of the draft. Several people to our activities, to the sport in their late forties or activity that you can enjoy changes were suggested, need to champion the quality fifties and maybe joining or and benefit from throughout which would be incorporated experiences that people can rejoining a club then. life. Clubs that develop into the final version of the enjoy when they explore the Gender balance is also an successful strategies to plan, to be put to the Board hills in small numbers. for approval. There was a further issue in clubs, as more recruit new members are Members who attended the discussion on the scope to women than men now seem asked to share their strategy to join clubs and go on club with the Membership

regional meetings had not foster self-reliance and that ▲ received any feedback and it clubs should do more training walks. Development Officer. was agreed that it was in navigation. important that One club was looking to Mountaineering Ireland provide first aid training for continued to try to improve its members. Mountaineering communications with the Ireland does not list first aid membership. training providers, because it The relationship of the Get doesn’t accredit these Ireland Walking initiative with trainers. However, in the Mountaineering Ireland was interest of members, it was discussed. Get Ireland Walking thought Mountaineering is an initiative of Sport Ireland, Ireland should list them on managed by Mountaineering the website. Ireland and funded by Sport The issue of the age profile Ireland and the Department of hillwalkers was raised as a of Health. Mountaineering concern for clubs. In terms of Ireland employs the staff, but the strategy, is it possible to Get Ireland Walking has its address this and make the own recently-launched sport more attractive to Strategic Plan (see IML 124, young people? There was a Approaching the summit of Galtymore. Photographs: Paul Kellagher Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 9 NEWSLOG

Breakdown of Income 2017

Membership Subscriptions €288,281 Irish Mountain Log €45,009 Irish Mountain Log Advertising €18,310 Member Meets and Gatherings €21,493 Training €28,243 Youth Development Programme NI €7,252 Publications €11,758 Members approaching Galtymore summit during the 2018 Gathering. Talent Development €48,177 Other: Women With Altitude, Lectures, Library €10,369 Treasurer’s Report, AGM 2018 Sport Ireland Core NGB Funding €193,000 Sport NI: Supporting Clubs Core NGB Funding €39,659 By Patrick O’Sullivan Sport Ireland: Women in Sport Funding €8,000 The outgoing Honorary Treasurer, Nicky Hore, presented the Audited Environmental Defence Fund €195 Accounts to the Annual General Meeting. He reported that the finances Bank Interest Receivable – had been dealt with in an efficient manner by our financial Sport Ireland: Get Climbing (Dormant Accnts) €40,000 Sport Ireland: GIW (Core Programme Funding) administrators, Integral Finance and Technology (IFT), and that our €145,000 accountants, Whiteside Cullinan, were satisfied with our accounting Sport Ireland: GIW (Dormant Accnts) €130,000 records. 1,034,746 There was a deficit €33,000 in the Income & Expenditure account, € which was as budgeted. This deficit has reduced from €50,000 for the Breakdown of Expenditure 2017 previous year, and the intention is to eliminate any deficit in 2018. A lot of work has been undertaken by our CEO, Murrough McDonagh, and our Wages & Salaries €303,626 staff to have structured and measurable budgets within each section of Rent Payable €13,568 the office. Our financial administrators have been responsible for Insurance €79,081 streamlining the payments system and categorising all items to help Postage and Printing €19,033 ongoing budgeting. Marketing, Communications & Guidebooks €2,856 The resources of Mountaineering Ireland remain in a healthy state. The Telephone 1,824 grants from Sport Ireland and Sport NI have remained the same and, as € Website and IT 22,554 we have kept a good relationship with both bodies, the prospect of € Professional Fees 26,568 maintaining or improving these grants in the future is good. € Accountancy and Audit 11,861 The Audited Accounts were then approved by the meeting and our € current auditors were approved for the following year. Nicky thanked Bank Charges €4,518 David Buggy of Whiteside Cullinan Accountants, John Slevin and Mark Bad Debt Provision – Tallon of Integral Finance and Technology (IFT), our CEO Murrough Loss on Currency Exchange €2,862 McDonagh and all the Mountaineering Ireland staff for keeping the General Expenses €27,317 Mountaineering Ireland finances in order. Hillwalking, Access & Conservation €9,539 Nicky Hore stepped down as Honorary Treasurer having completed four Member Meets and Gatherings €30,100 years in the role. He was thanked by the Board and the meeting for his Board and Sub-committees €13,195 excellent work in overseeing the accounts through some difficult years. Training and Coaching €9,483 Nicky also stepped down from the Board ■ Expedition Grants €1,333 Photograph: Paul Kellagher (top), Ger Somers (bottom) Somers Ger (top), Paul Kellagher Photograph: Irish Mountain Log €98,225 Youth Development Programme €22,601 Members on Galtymore summit during the 2018 Gathering. Talent Development €81,841 Sport Ireland: Get Ireland Walking (GIW) €244,216 Lectures and Library €2,934 Sport Ireland: Women in Sport €8,507 Sport Ireland: Get Climbing Programme €13,274 Special Projects –

Subscriptions €5,926 Depreciation €11,535 €1,068,377 Net deficit (€33,631)

10 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Members of Galway Walking Club on Ben Beg in the Partry Mountains (Joyce Country). Autumn Gathering Clonbur, Co Galway, October 12-14th, 2018

Join us for a weekend of walking and climbing, talks and workshops

By Galway Walking Club Galway-Roscommon Outdoor by attending the options in a variety of Education and Training Mountaineering Ireland landscapes in three counties The village of An Fhairche Centre, offering a range of Autumn Gathering in Clonbur (Galway, Mayo and Clare); three (Clonbur) sits between Lough adventure sports activities and in October, which is being levels of hillwalks (A, B and C); Corrib and Lough Mask in challenges for all age groups. hosted by Galway Walking rambles; and a short Sunday County Galway. Two kilometres One of its specialisms is the Club. afternoon walk. The club has to the west rises Binn Shléibhe study of the landscape and it also been running an annual (Mount Gable) where, offers a superb location for all Galway Walking Club Connemara Marathon since according to legend, the Fir types of field studies, including The Galway Walking Club was 1996. Bolg gathered on the hilltop geology, geography and founded in 1995. Its founding There has always been a before their clash with the ecology. members were already avid strong social aspect to the Tuatha Dé Danann at the The community of Clonbur is long-distance walkers, so the club’s activities. Galway Battle of Moytura. immensely proud of the club’s aim was to provide Walking Club has an annual Joyce Country, a hilly region natural resources on its regular extended rambles for Christmas party, a summer to the west of Lough Mask, doorstep. This village was a its members. barbecue, bank holiday takes its name from the Anglo- winner in its category in the By the year 2000 an weekends away in different Norman family who settled All-Ireland ‘Pride of Place’ increasing demand for parts of Ireland and trips to here in the 13th century. Competition in 2016. The hillwalking in the amazing offshore islands, as well as a Thomas Joyce (originally spelt community is now working Connemara mountains was week’s hiking holiday every Joys from the French ‘Joyeuse’) hard to develop and promote evident, and by 2002 the year in a European location. emigrated to Ireland and these assets in a sustainable option of two hillwalks per Galway Walking Club now has settled here. way. month was being offered by a membership of over 300. His son married an O’Flaherty Local farmers and the club. and this allegiance allowed the landowners have been In 2018, with increasing AUTUMN GATHERING: Joyce clan to take control of incredibly accommodating to membership numbers and a Registration details and the programme for the Autumn the whole of the barony of outdoor enthusiasts, and the wider range of age and fitness Gathering will be posted on Ross. Binn Shléibhe Pilot Mountain levels, Galway Walking Club www.mountaineering.ie ■ Close to Clonbur lie the Access Project is an example offers five different walk remains of the Petersburg of this. This year, the estate, seat of the Lynch community is launching its Galway Walking family of Galway, one of whose ‘Clonbur Welcomes Walkers’ Club members in members, Thomas Lynch Jnr, campaign, with five new or the . was a signatory of the upgraded trails through Coillte American Declaration of land. This will include a timely Independence. celebration of underpasses or Located on the southern tunnels built in 1918 by the shore of Lough Mask, with Guinness family of Ashford Lough Corrib to the south and Castle, which help link the with the Maamturks and villages of Clonbur and Cong in Partry Mountains to the west, a beautiful woodland walk. Petersburg House is now the Help support this campaign Photographs: Galway Walking Club Walking Galway Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 11 NEWSLOG

Get Ireland Walking Programme Manager Jason King (centre) with pupils and teachers of St Patrick’s School, , launching Active School Walkway 2018. Active School Walkway initiative launched Get Ireland Walking launches its new Active School Walkway initiative in partnership with Active School Flag ... for children, by children.

By Jason King (Get Ireland particular focus on children. and mental wellbeing,” An of our Dormant Accounts- Walking) There are many positive Taoiseach said. “We all know funded Schools Walking physical activity initiatives that being active also means initiative. On April 19th , An Taoiseach Leo across schools. The new having fun.” In preparation for this year’s Varadkar TD, along with initiatives developed as part of The Active School Walkway Active School Week and in Government Ministers Richard the Active School Flag pack that has been developed partnership with Active School Bruton TD, Simon Harris TD initiative, in partnership with includes signage that schools Flag, Get Ireland Walking and Catherine Byrne TD, Healthy Ireland, this year can erect on their grounds, as distributed two hundred and welcomed Active School fifty Active School Walkway Week 2018 and the include the launch of the well as useful information on packs to schools that had introduction of the new Active Active School Walkway the best usage of the walkway, qualified for an Active School School Walkway initiative. initiative and partnership with before, during and after Flag or were working towards Active School Week, which thirteen new junior park-runs. school. achieving it. The distribution of took place from April 23rd to We want to encourage and Posters are also provided for these packs provided 27th, is an initiative offering support children to have the post-primary schools, additional walking schools across the country an best possible physical fitness designed by students as part opportunities for more than opportunity to work together 100,000 students. with students, parents and We are now exploring the communities, and with expansion of this initiative to national sporting and health organisations, on a broad Phase 2, which will include range of physical activities. reaching all special schools At the launch of the (primary schools with special initiative in St Patrick’s School, needs capabilities) and all DEIS Corduff, Co Dublin, Taoiseach (Delivering Equality of Leo Varadkar said getting Opportunity in Schools) everyone living in Ireland schools across the country. moving was a priority for This is a really exciting Healthy Ireland. “We have a initiative, which we are Photographs: Get Ireland Walking Ireland Get Photographs: 12 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 “Given the age demographic of Men’s Sheds members (50 plus), an emphasis on being physically active is of key importance. For the older age demographic of men, walking is the simplest form of physical activity to engage in, and brings about many health benefits, physically, mentally and socially. By providing the initial ‘Get Into Walking’ workshop directly to a Shed, it removes the daunting barrier many men often experience when wishing to take up physical activity.” – Irish Men’s Sheds Association

delighted to support for the with Sport Ireland, Healthy A focus group that was held walking supports. physical and wellbeing Ireland, Active School Flag and with a number of Sheds The same workshop will be benefits of children and young the Department of Education indicated that less than 10% delivered to a further seven people in Ireland. to expand this initiative of the men were engaging Sheds in over 2018, to This project is supported by further. Watch this space! with any of Get Ireland ensure the programme is the Sport Ireland Dormant Walking’s programmes. bedded in. Accounts Sports Inclusion Following the focus groups, The programme enhances Fund and the Healthy Ireland Shedding the load four walk engagement sustainability by enabling Sheds ag Siúl is a gender- Fund. It demonstrates a solid sessions were held across self-regulatory behaviour example of national specific programme for men Dublin, Cork and Galway, relating to walking, thus stakeholders coming together in the Men’s Sheds reaching 113 men. Sheds promoting the longer-term through a shared vision to programmes. The programme resources were designed and engagement with existing deliver additional physical originated through a disseminated. Pilot workshops services on offer through the activity opportunities for the partnership between Get were then delivered to Local Sports Partnership and children of Ireland. We look Ireland Walking and the Irish Shedders in two community Get Ireland Walking’s forward to working closely Men’s Sheds Association. locations, one in Dublin and Community Walking Groups. one in Cork, bringing together One mechanism for this is Shedders from around ten through the identification of Sheds and involving thirty Shed leaders or Walking men. The finalised workshop Champions. The same model NUTRAMINO was delivered with two Sheds, will be delivered in Dublin, reaching a further thirty men. targeting an additional eight Tutors in Cork Local Sports trainers and eight Sheds. Partnership were trained in In line with successes in the the delivery of the Get Into Men’s Sheds and the Walking workshop by the Irish Woodlands for Health Heart Foundation. Additional programmes, Get Ireland training was provided in how Walking has identified further to engage with men in Sheds needs within the Irish by the Irish Men’s Sheds community. These include Association and the Men’s much-needed walking Development Network. programmes for those on the One Shed has received the Cancer Care journey and workshop and is starting the those who have overcome eight-week walking addiction. The populations programme, encompassing a targeted are vulnerable adults Jason King (National Programme Manager, Get Ireland Walking), combination of fit poles, in need of services that with host Vogue Williams and Emer O’Leary (Programme walking football and walking address their physical and Coordinator, Get Ireland Walking) at the Nutramino Health and Fitness Awards ceremony in April. in the community. Ten mental wellbeing through the individuals have signed up for means of physical activity Get Ireland Walking picks up Nutramino eight weeks’ text-message and walking ■ Health and Fitness Award AUTHOR: Jason King is Programme Manager Get Ireland Walking was delighted and honoured to win of Get Ireland Walking. Get Ireland Walking is the innovation category in the very first Nutramino an initiative of Sport Ireland, supported by Health and Fitness Awards, held in the Mansion House, Healthy Ireland and hosted and delivered by Dublin, in April. This was another giant step for the Mountaineering Ireland. initiative and it was great to be recognised as a leader in FIND OUT MORE: To find out more about Get health and fitness from a population perspective and Ireland Walking, visit the website within the fitness industry. There were many worthy www.getirelandwalking.ie, contact us on (01) winners within the shortlist. We would like to take this 625 1109 or email [email protected] with any questions you may have. Happy walking! opportunity to commend every one of them on their efforts in promoting health and wellbeing. Irish Mountain Log 13 NEWSLOG Reading the landscape Geological Survey Ireland has provided a very useful web viewer for reading the landscape.

By Dr Siobhán Power million-year-old (Geological Survey Ireland) intrusion, also from the final closing of the Iapetus Ocean, Geological Survey Ireland (GSI), and the in a division of the Department Louth are from the opening of of Communications, Climate the North Atlantic Ocean. The Action and Environment, has landscape itself was formed been mapping Ireland’s over the last 2.5 million years geology since 1845. However, when ice sheets and many people would still not be covered the land and reshaped aware that all of their data and the land in their wake. maps are free for use by the general public. This data would All data and maps are be of particular use to available on www.gsi.ie (the hillwalkers, climbers and web viewer is found under mountaineers who would like ‘Maps and Data’). Layers within to get a better understanding the map web browser give of the landscape. different information and can Ireland has a long and be turned on and off to suit your needs. The base map can interesting geological history map from the FIND OUT MORE: For more and, for an area of its size, an be changed also. area of . information on the geology of unusually high geodiversity. Possibly the most useful for Ireland and on Geological Survey You will shortly be able to The mountains of Cork and reading the landscape is the Ireland’s activities, visit www.gsi.ie use your Eircode to discover Kerry are mainly 400 million- Quaternary layer. The or visit its customer centre in Beggars Bush, Haddington Road, year-old desert sandstone. Quaternary Period is from 2.6 the glacial features around you. Dublin, D04 K7X4. Connemara, Mayo and million years ago to the OPEN DAY: Geological Survey Donegal are composed of present. There have been We also welcome input from Ireland will be having an open day older rocks laid down on the many glacial events within you, particularly in relation to as part of Heritage Week, on th floor of an opening ocean that period and these glaciers landslides. Please contact us Friday, August 24 , 2018, from at [email protected] to 11.00am to 4.00pm. (Iapetus Ocean) and then have shaped our landscape. An AUTHOR: Dr Siobhán Power is a deformed when the ocean was example of the information report any landslides not geologist with Geological Survey closing. Wicklow is a great, 400 available is shown here using a marked on our maps ■ Ireland.

Quaternary or glacial features of Wicklow area. The barbed irregular black lines show the corries (where glaciers are born). The blue arrowheads are the location and direction of meltwater channels. The red enclosed areas are moraine ridges. The green-and-white areas are nunataks (places

Images: Geological Survey Ireland Geological Survey Images: that remained above the ice during the last glaciation). The fine black arrows are striations in rocks, indicating the direction of ice movement. 14 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Photographs: UIAA (top), Michael Maunsell Summer 2018 Summer bit.ly/2MbE9lN. purchased online at activities. The guide can be summer Alpine mountain handbook dealing with environmental section of the expanding the scope of the response and meant received a very positive Alpine Handbook. section of the the latest environmental and submitting content for past year included reviewing directly involved in during the training curricula content. practices, guidelines and resources and innovative public sectors, and access with experts in private and opportunity to collaborate can make full use of the strategies internationally and sustainable development Ireland has direct input to member, Mountaineering Protection Commission England. was in the Lake District in in Switzerland and this year it it was held at the UIAA office during May each year: in 2017 meeting in different locations holds its annual general interesting. The Commission challenging, but always varied, sometimes Protection Commission, of the competition sport. safety, sustainability and issues related to mountain world on a wide range of mountaineers around the represents climbers and mountaineering and it body of climbing and the international governing Associations d'Alpinisme) Internationale des The By Michael Maunsell Mountain Protection Award Michael Maunsell reports on a busy year for the UIAA Mountain Protection Commission. The UIAA Mountain Protection Commission Some of the work I was By having a full Mountain The work, as a full member As a judge on the UIAA (Union UIAA Mountain UIAA Summer This UIAA is is Officer,BMC,speaker). guest Executive UIAA Conservation the & (Access Dyer Rob and Member, Netherlands) represented Commission MP (UIAA Spijker Board), (France, Joop Denis Hélène Club), Alpine Vice-President, and UK, Member, Club), Carolina Member, Adler (President, Commission UIAA MP MP Commission,Alpine (President, Paterson Member, (UIAA NewIreland),John Zealand),Commission MP Bagirov (UIAA Steve Maunsell Goodwin Michael Azerbaijan),(UIAAHussein MP Commissionspeaker), guest Trust, Muir (John Barron Pete Club), 2017. held in Shiraz, Iran in October last UIAA General Assembly, award was presented at the Protection Award 2017. The of the UIAA Mountain eventual winner and recipient the Nepalese. mountain that is sacred to tourism industry on a lessening the impact of the the local communities – that threaten the health of pathogenic faecal coliforms waste and destroy dumping of solid human human waste. It will eliminate biogas digester to treat the proposed to use an anaerobic climbing season. The project several months during the Everest Base Camp for support staff that populate thousands of climbers and on the mountain by the of solid human waste is left 2017. Approximately 12,000kg Biogas Project application in assessing the Scheme, annual 2018 the at speakers guest and Lakeby District, Club in the hosted the Alpine meeting hosts with members Commission Protection Mountain UIAA This project was the I was tasked with International Union for conservation organised by the dedicated to biodiversity participate in a workshop the UIAA was invited to Development. Sustainable Tourism for 10-Year Programme on World Tourism Organization within the United Nations accepted as official partner first was when UIAA was mountain-based tourism. The best international practice in sustainable approaches and the highest level, for opportunities to advocate, at in the last year provided Two important developments developments Important The second occurred when (left right): to (left Geographical Society. geographical science and a Fellow of the Royal Michael is a lecturer in environmental and as a mountaineer and scientist for 40 years. worked in mountain environments worldwide Mountain Protection Commission. He has and is Ireland’s representative to the UIAA member of the Board of Mountaineering Ireland AUTHOR: Michael Maunsell Rob Collister (Vice-President, (Vice-President, Collister Alpine Rob bit.ly/2MafpKs www.theuiaa.org, or go to available on the UIAA website. on the Commission’s work is Azerbaijan. Further information meeting will be held in Protection Commission annual to responsible tourism. subjects, from climate change conferences on many relevant speakers at major international throughout the year as continue to play a key role world. research initiatives around the and learn from mountain also allows us to contribute to 2018. Involvement at this level held in Switzerland in April Conservation of Nature (IUCN), The 2019 UIAA Mountain All Commission members Irish Mountain Log Mountain Irish serves as a ■ 15 NEWSL0G Uplands Partnership Management Board

By Helen Lawless

In October 2017, the Heritage Council, in collaboration with the Irish Uplands Forum, engaged Mary Mulvey as a national upland network co-ordinator to provide support to upland partnership groups and to enable networking between such groups. This three-year programme aims to assist community-based partnership bodies in upland areas to address the need for local, integrated and sustainable management of their respective areas. The Heritage Council has Attendees at the first meeting of the Heritage Council’s Uplands Partnership Management Board (left to also formed an Uplands right): Carmel Fox, Michael Starrett (CEO, Heritage Council), Mary Mulvey (Upland Network Coordinator), Brian Dunne, James Moran, Pat O’Shea, Helen Lawless, Mary Tubridy, Frank Nugent. Partnership Management Board to advise on and from Mountaineering Ireland of this new board took place for a small grants oversee the development was invited to join the board in Kilkenny in May 2018. One programme for upland and delivery of this representing recreation of the first actions for the partnership bodies ■ programme. Helen Lawless interests. The first meeting group is to develop criteria Hillwalking working group on track

held its first meeting at Sport HQ in Dublin at the end of June and started planning the group’s work. The aim is for the group to develop terms of reference for a Mountaineering Ireland Hillwalking Committee and to develop an initial work- plan for that committee. There was a strong response to the call for expressions of interest in joining the working group. The group has eleven members and is made up of people from different Members of the Hillwalking Working Group (from left): Russell Mills, Gráinne McLoughlin (Mountaineering geographic areas and with a Ireland Board Member and Chairperson of the group), Ruth Whelan (Mountaineering Ireland’s Membership variety of backgrounds in Development Officer), Christian Schaffalitzky, Trish Kane (Mountaineering Ireland Board Member), Declan hillwalking (see photo). Murphy, Helen Lawless (Mountaineering Ireland’s Hillwalking, Access & Conservation Officer), William Smith and Aine McGirl. Absent from the photograph: Paul Cherry and Margaret Tees. The group will be meeting again in July and is aiming to By Ruth Whelan (Membership Aherlow in March a motion supported, in recognition of deliver a report about its Development Officer) (proposed by the Irish the strategic importance of work to the Board of Ramblers Club) was passed developing hillwalking. Mountaineering Ireland At the 2018 Mountaineering that a Hillwalking Committee Mountaineering Ireland’s before the end of November Ireland AGM in the Glen of should be created and Hillwalking Working Group 2018 Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: ■ 16 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Mark Vallance: the man who made ‘Friends’

set up in England in 1977 and manufactured Friends there, which he eventually sold around the world. He went on to establish

the Outside outdoor TUSZYŃSKI JAREK equipment store in the English Peak District and was part of the team that built the Foundry Climbing Centre in Sheffield. Despite the success of Wild Country, Vallance continued to Wild Country climb and he thrived on Friends physical challenges. In 1982, he completed the 115-kilometre mountainous areas in the UK. Bob Graham Round in the In 2016, Mark published his Lake District in just 24 hours, autobiography, Wild Country: during which he scaled 42 the man who made Friends, summits. which highlighted his life as an He was an extremely entrepreneur and, to quote accomplished mountaineer, BMC CEO Dave Turnbull, as who climbed in all seven “one of climbing’s great continents. In 1990, he innovators.” The book was summited on Shishapangma shortlisted for the 2016 (8,027m), which he said was Boardman Tasker Award for his “best moment,” and he Mountain Literature. By Patrick O’Sullivan college, he worked with the also scaled world-class rock- Beyond his achievements in British Antarctic Survey for faces, including the Nose of El the climbing world, Mark was a British mountaineer Mark two years and later with the Capitan. tough negotiator, but he was Vallance, a former President of Peak District National Park Diagnosed with Parkinson’s also ever the gentleman. As the British Mountaineering Authority. While in Colorado disease in his mid-fifties, President of the BMC, he was Council (BMC) and founder of teaching at an Outward Mark’s further climbing always very welcoming to the Wild Country, a British Bound School, he met ambitions were unfortunately Irish delegation who attended company he set up in the 1970s American climbing legend Ray somewhat restricted. the Mountaineering to make and market ‘Friends,’ Jardine, who had developed a However, in 2003, he took over Coordination Group meetings sadly passed away peacefully in revolutionary spring-loaded the challenging role of that were held at that time his home in Switzerland in April. camming device, the Friend, President of the BMC at a time between the three then He was 73 and had been that would have a lasting of major organisational and Mountaineering Councils. suffering from Parkinson’s impact on climbing, pushing financial difficulties. Mark Mountaineering Ireland offers disease for many years. the limits of what was launched a wide-ranging its condolences to Mark’s Mark was born on achievable. As Ray was unable policy review, which family and friends. th recommended a ‘one person, September 17 , 1944, the same to get support for their May he rest in peace ■ day as . After manufacture in the US, Mark one vote’ system, instead of the club block vote which had been in place. Following Mark’s negotiations with the major clubs, this was adopted at the BMC’s AGM in 2006. Mark also developed the very successful BMC British Mountain Maps, which were first published in 2005 in collaboration with Harvey Maps and of which Mark was very proud. They started with a map of the Lake District, eventually developing a series The original Friend (1½) made by Wild Country of sixteen maps of

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 17 NEWSLOG

Members of Foyle Hillwalking Club get ready to go litter-picking along the Inishowen peninsula shoreline. Foyle Hillwalking Club undertakes coastal sweep

By Avril McAllister along this beautiful stretch of volunteers for the day made Tidy Towns group, who keep Donegal coastline. a surprisingly large collection the path along this coastline Foyle Hillwalking Club carried They were also grateful to of rubbish, with everything clear throughout the year, out a litter clean-up along the Pearse McCrory from Donegal from underpants, a stiletto must be acknowledged. shoreline from Moville to County Council, who provided heel, tyres, a carpet, a boot in Without their work the path Greencastle on the Inishowen all participants with top-class good condition, numerous and its surrounds would have peninsula, Co Donegal on litter-pickers, bags, gloves and plastic coffee cups, plastic been much worse. However, Saturday, May 19th last. high-visibility vests (which and glass bottles galore, litter-picking is a never-ending The organisers were most gave them an air of authority!). Q-tips, plastic bits, wipes, etc. task, so the hard work of Foyle grateful to fellow club They also used some bags and Twenty-three bags were left Hillwalking Club members has members and friends who gloves remaining from An for later collection by the played an important part in turned out on the day to help Taisce’s National Spring Clean. county council. maintaining the beauty of this with the coastal clean-up The team of community The good work of Moville coastline ■ Glenwalk annual clean-up in the Wicklow hills

Members of Glenwalk, a Dublin-based hillwalking club, held their annual clean-up day on April 30th, 2018, at the Shay Elliot memorial car park, located on a high mountain pass between Laragh and in County Wicklow. A fine spring day brought out a good attendance for the club’s four levels of walks. Prizes were offered for the most unusual litter items collected, and the winning group, pictured above, carried back a large hydraulic pipe and an iPhone! The club thanks all who helped out on the day. A special thanks to Ian Davis of the PURE Project for supplying the clean-up equipment. Photographs: Foyle Hillwalking Club, Linda Jordan (Glenwalk clean-up) (Glenwalk Jordan Linda Club, Hillwalking Foyle Photographs: 18 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Club support meetings

As part of progressing Mountaineering Ireland’s aim to support club committees and their officers, as outlined in our new Strategic Development Plan, we have organised four meetings in different locations around the country from September to December 2018. Date Location 5th September 27th September We are nd 22 November Bray 29th November Killarney inspired These meetings will be a great opportunity for club committees to meet Mountaineering Ireland officers and receive relevant information that will help in the running of their club. Our Membership Development Officer, our by our Training Officer and our Hillwalking, Access & Conservation Officer will all be in attendance to cover a range of topics. We would encourage all clubs to send up to four committee members, or interested members, to these surroundings. meetings. Venue details will be published on www.mountaineering.ie and emailed to Club Secretaries. Contact us with your topic ideas If there are any specific topics you would like covered, please email [email protected] ■ Ray Wood Ray (E5 6a), Fair Head, Northern Ireland. Photo: Photo: Ireland. Northern Head, Fair 6a), (E5 The Mask The on two of of two pitch on

Alex Schweikart Alex

Cirrus Flex Jacket. Designed for strenuous days in the mountains, the Cirrus Flex is a lightweight, synthetic jacket that perfectly balances breathability climb now and warmth. This versatile layer can be worn as a windproof outer work later or lightweight midlayer making it the ideal partner for any alpine adventure. Irish Mountain Log 19 WWW..EQUI PMENT NEWSLOG

Bolted climbs at Altnadue

By Kevin Kilroy tarpaulin for group use, in case of a change in the weather. Tollymore National Outdoor However, of most interest to Centre and Sport Northern climbers will be the addition of Ireland (Sport NI) have recently over sixteen fully bolted sport completed extensive climbs! To our knowledge, this refurbishments at Altnadue is currently the only sport Quarry, just outside the village climbing quarry in Ireland. This of Castlewellan, Co Down, on news has been received with the Altnadua Road. great enthusiasm by the For over thirty years, climbing community. Indeed, Altnadue Quarry has been ‘The Quarry,’ as it often referred leased from a local landowner to by local climbers, has been by Tollymore as a buzzing for weeks now, since venue. The quarry has always its official opening in May 2018 been open for public access at by George Lucas, Chair of all times and for other outdoor Sport NI. providers in the locality to use “2018 is proving to be an Aidan Bleakley climbing at Altnadue Quarry during a Mourne Youth for introducing people to rock exciting year for Tollymore Climbing Club event in May 2018. Photograph: Craig Hiller climbing. Altnadue Quarry is National Outdoor Centre, as it conveniently located by the celebrates fifty years of providers of outdoor activities. Officer, has steered this project road, providing easy access, operation,” said George Lucas, “The quarry will also play a from the outset. On behalf of and has stunning views across speaking at the opening part in delivering the NI the Irish climbing community, the western Mournes. ceremony. Outdoor Recreation Plan, with Mountaineering Ireland would The refurbishments included “With climbing set to partners in the NI like to thank and congratulate extensive removal of rock become an Olympic sport for Environmental Agency and Mike McClure, Tollymore debris from the quarry floor, the first time in 2020, we are Tourism NI, to promote and National Outdoor Centre, Sport installation of clear footpaths delighted to be launching this develop outdoor recreation NI, project architect’s Consarc around the quarry rim, greater enhanced facility, which will be here.” and all the construction and parking facilities and a shelter well used by individuals, clubs, Mike McClure, Sport NI’s bolting teams involved with structure for fitting with a charities and commercial Active Outdoors Development this project ■

Seán Henchion, left, and Daire Oglesby with their trophies at the Edinburgh Arena. Success at Edinburgh Seán Henchion and Daire Oglesby take first and third places at the Grand Final of the 2018 Youth Climbing Series in Scotland. By Damien O’Sullivan Youth D category. These three young climbers are no strangers to the The Grand Final of the 2018 Youth podium at the Youth Climbing Series Climbing Series took place on Grand Final. In 2016, they were placed Saturday, April 28th, at the Edinburgh an unprecedented 1st, 2nd and 3rd in International Climbing Arena. Male Youth E. Last year they were Mountaineering Ireland was placed 2nd, 3rd and 4th in their first year represented by 27 young climbers who in Male Youth D. had travelled to Edinburgh to compete This year, at the end of the three with some of the best young climbers boulder problems and three routes, from all over England, Scotland and Seán was tied for first place with Sam Wales. In all, almost two hundred and Hammond from the Midlands region in seventy young climbers took part, England. A Super-Final was needed to representing nine separate separate them. Sam set the bar very competition regions. high, but Seán reached one hold The highlight in terms of the results further than him, which was enough to was, again this year, the three very secure the top place on the podium ■ strong results from Seán Henchion, Daire Oglesby and Matthew Murray, Sponsors of the st rd th Mountaineering Ireland who took 1 , 3 and 5 places team in the Youth Climbing Series

DAMIEN O’SULLIvAN respectively in a very competitive Male

20 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Fair Head Meet 2018 The annual Fair Head Meet has become the social climbing event of the year.

By John Orr

The 2018 Fair Head Meet will be remembered for the background sounds of singing birds and whirring helicopters, a superpod of dolphins, an eerie fog, stunning sunsets and the great social atmosphere in Sean McBride’s barn and fields. That is without even mentioning the world-class climbing and bouldering that was enjoyed by all of the participants who attended the meet. This year’s meet, in James McHaffie on the Rathlin Effect on Fair Head, the first E9 at this location. association with Dal Riada Climbing Club, saw nearly three hundred climbers come family provided a much- Bell’s Rathlin Effect. He more than willing to come together to enjoy what is now appreciated barbeque succeeded a couple of days together to help each other the social climbing event of before visiting speaker, later, describing it as the out, when the need arises. the year. On Friday evening, Calum Muskett, took to the best and wildest single pitch Huge thanks to the climbers Kevin Kilroy gave an stage to take the audience of climbing he has done and who gave assistance, to informative chat on the on a humorous whirlwind confirming it as E9, Fair Ciaran Kinney of Ballycastle continuing cleaning efforts at trip of the highs and lows of Head’s first at that . Coastguard, and to all of the the crag and provided climbing in North Wales, the Unfortunately, there was Coastguard and rescue team encouragement for others to Shetlands and further afield. an accident involving two members who were involved get involved. It is worth Sunday dawned bright and climbers on Hell’s Kitchen, in evacuating the injured remembering that, if it wasn’t sunny and there was a great but it is great to report that climbers. for the cleaning efforts that buzz as the hundreds of they are both making a full A special thanks to Paul started some fifteen years climbers enjoyed the recovery from their injuries. Swail and the Dal Riada ago, Fair Head might not be climbing and socialising at The immediate response of Climbing Club for organising the popular crag it is today. the crag. James Mchaffie climbers nearby to assist a great meet, and to the Rob Hunter followed up had quite the audience as he highlighted how, as a guest speakers, Calum with a great, inspiring chat attempted a repeat of Ricky climbing community, we are Muskett, Rob Hunter and about the bouldering Kevin Kilroy, for giving a developments over the years variety of interesting and and encouraged climbers to entertaining lectures. I would sample the top-quality also like to thank Rab bouldering that exists at the Equipment for their base of the Fair Head crag. continued support of the A foggy start on Saturday event in sponsoring the guest morning didn’t do much to speaker; Causeway Coast dampen anyone’s and Glen Borough Council for enthusiasm. Rob Hunter and supplying the toilets; and Veronica Lee headed up their Mountaineering Ireland for now established tour of the its support for the meet. boulders from Murlough Bay, However, the biggest thank while over the course of the you of all goes to Sean and day climbers took advantage the rest of the McBride of the eerie conditions to family for once again being discover and rediscover the so welcoming to everyone many classics that Fair Head who attended the meet and has to offer. enjoyed the climbing at Fair Fair Head, Co Antrim. In the evening the McBride Head

Photographs: Tim Neill (McHaffie on Rathlin Effect), Arnold Price (Fair Head) Arnold Price (Fair Effect), on Rathlin Tim Neill (McHaffie Photographs: ■ Summer 2018Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 21 NEWSLOG Donegal Climbfest 2018 By Geoff Thomas compete to find the most experienced members was (Chairperson, Colmcille sheltered sun-traps. Marty McGuigan, who showed Climbing Club) A large number of novice us all up by climbing the climbers were in attendance, harbour sea stack and then Colmcille Climbing Club’s making use of the top ropes on jumping off. Equally annual Climbfest took place on the superbly fluted Neptune adventurous was Kevin Kilroy, the May bank holiday weekend Wall. The tides on the day who broke the world record for at Malin Beg. Good weather meant that many had to take the 5-metre swim to set up a was forecast and Donegal did their first steps ‘en rappel’ to Tyrolean traverse to the island. not disappoint: the sun shone get down to the start of the All in all, the Climbfest was a every day! climbs, always an anxious great introduction to sea-cliff Climbers came from all over experience. climbing generally and the Ireland and beyond, some even On Sunday, a number of wonderful climbing to be had from as far as . parties set out to enjoy the on the Donegal coast. Saturday saw groups from vibrant seascape and brilliantly The Climbfest always makes two newly formed clubs in juggy, muscular climbing at a donation each year to a local Sligo and Belfast arrive in Muckross. Others headed for community association and numbers; it was great to see the superbly exposed Sail Rock this year it was made to the Sail Rock the enthusiasm of both clubs. and a number were seen on Glencolmcille Folk Village. They It was also great to see so Main Mast, arguably one of the will use the donation to run a the spectacular coastal cliffs in many climbers from Foyle best E2s in Ireland. weekend to teach children the area. The club also arranges Arena indoor wall, complete For the first time, boulderers local handicrafts. meets on the islands and with shiny new racks of gear, were seen at the Climbfest The Climbfest is organised welcomes new members. See venturing onto perfect Donegal each day, enjoying the sunlit each year by the Colmcille the website www.colmcille- rock for the first time. steeper walls of the seaward Climbing Club, which is based in climbers.com for information On the Saturday, activity platforms. and around Derry and Donegal. on joining the club and for an centred on the Malin Beg cliffs, Participants ranged in age It is aimed at climbers who are online guidebook with with climbers taking the from nine-year-old Ava making the transition from comments on quality and opportunity to meet up with McLaughlin to some over climbing indoors to climbing grades for each route on every friends old and new, and to seventy. Among the more outdoors, introducing them to crag in Donegal ■ Report your lizard sightings

By Kieran Flood (Irish Wildlife everyone who reported a Trust) sighting. So, once more this year, we Are reptiles roaming our are asking you to send us your uplands? Well, thanks to help lizard sightings to support our from Mountaineering Ireland’s reptile research. To report a members, we now have a sighting, please email us at much better idea! [email protected] with the The Irish Wildlife Trust has following information: (1) your been surveying the distribution name, (2) date of the sighting, of our native common lizard (3) location of the sighting Zootoca vivipara, as well as the (GPS coordinates or grid introduced lizard, the slow reference, please), (4) a photo, worm Anguis fragilis. The if possible, (5) habitat where common lizard, also known as you saw it (e.g., bog, scrub, etc). the viviparous lizard, is our only Please keep your eyes open native species of reptile. and keep the records coming Unusually for reptiles, it is a magazine, to let us know of common lizard is a mountain in to [email protected] ■ species of lizard adapted to any sightings they had made lover and part of our upland colder climates, being found of these reptiles in the hills, as wildlife. We recorded this little throughout Eurasia as far north well as anywhere else. We lizard in the uplands of Carlow, FIND OUT MORE: For more Cork, Donegal, Down, Dublin, information on this project, see as Arctic Norway. received scores of reports from https://iwt.ie/what-we- Last year we asked all across the island. Thanks to Fermanagh, Galway, Kerry, do/citizen-science/national- Mountaineering Ireland these records of sightings, we Mayo, Sligo and Wicklow. Quite reptile-survey or just go to

Photographs: Patrick Tinney (Main Mast), Kieran Flood (lizard) Kieran (Main Mast), Tinney Patrick Photographs: members, through this can tell you that our native a spread! Thank you to bit.ly/2t36OkS. 22 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 WILDERNESS LODGE, Glenmalure, Co. Wicklow, Ireland Self-Catering Apartments Group Bookings for Walking and Trekking Clubs http://wildernesslodge.ie and http://wildernessactivitiesireland.com INFINITE Telephone: 0404 46839 and 087 262 5549 ™ Email: [email protected] POSSIBILITIES

New members of staff

Laura Griffin (pictured) has recently taken on the role of Training Office Administrator. She not only brings a genuine enthusiasm for mountaineering and climbing to the post as a climber herself, but in addition she has a broad range of skills and expertise as an administrator and is a natural “people’s person.” Laura is now enjoying getting to know our members and providers, and welcomes them all to contact her with their training enquiries. Mountaineering Ireland is very pleased to have her on board.

Natasza Berlowska (pictured) has recently taken on the role of Project Coordinator, Indoor Climbing/Social Inclusion Project. Natasza is originally from Toruń in central Poland. Although she lived far from the mountains in Poland, that didn’t stop her from becoming a passionate hiker. When she started, she was carried by one of her parents. That was the start of her interest and involvement in the outdoors. When she was a teenager, she would head off from her home with just a backpack to go to summer camps in the mountains. In the last fifteen years, Natasza has hiked all around Europe. She started climbing while she was studying in Poznań in Poland, but truly fell in love with climbing when she moved to Ireland in 2010. It helped her to find her own space in a new country and to meet people, who showed her the beauty of , the Mournes, the Burren and the cliffs of Donegal. Apart from trad climbing, she really enjoys sport climbing now in Open the door to a world lled sunny locations across Europe. with Innite Possibilities™ Natasza has recently joined Mountaineering Ireland’s staff to coordinate the Get Climbing social inclusion project, replacing Gráinne O’Brien, who has left. The project aims to introduce lowealpine.com/aeon young people from disadvantaged backgrounds to the sport of climbing. The project has been running for a year now and is gradually educating a new generation of climbers, who hopefully will find a passion for outdoor activities. Mountaineering Ireland warmly welcomes Natasza to her new post Photographs: Jason King (Laura Griffin), Gráinne O’Brien (Natasza Berlowska) (Natasza O’Brien Gráinne Griffin), Jason King (Laura Photographs: ■ Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 23 NATIONAL PARKS

Kippure (left) and Seefingan from Corrig Mountain. Photo: Cóilín MacLochlainn WILD, BUT CLOSE TO DUBLIN

Cóilín MacLochlainn describes Upper Glenasmole, north of , a recent welcome addition to Wicklow Mountains National Park.

n August 2016, the open heath. mountain blanket bog, though some 3,238 ha (8,000 acres) National Parks and Much of the land is this is heavily eroded on the from Glenasmole across to the Wildlife Service (NPWS) designated as a Special Area of summit of Kippure. North of Featherbed and Glencullen. acquired 1,983 hectares Conservation for its rare the summit the peat is deep, Interestingly, records show that (4,900 acres) in the upland habitats, and as a and unusually deep gullies are as many as 659 red grouse Dublin Mountains to Special Protection Area for found along Slade Brook, were bagged in just seven days add to Wicklow peregrine falcons. The NPWS is where peat deposits or alluvial of driven shooting on the MountainsI National Park. It surveying the lands to find out drifts up to 20 feet deep are estate in 1896. It seems likely was an inspired purchase, more about what they contain found. that for such densities to have being very close to Dublin city and how they might be Ravens, hooded crows, occurred predators such as while adjoining the existing managed for conservation. It is skylarks and pipits are the foxes, crows and hen harriers area of the national park. an area of great interest from a most obvious birds, but it’s an were ruthlessly suppressed and The lands were acquired biodiversity point of view and important hunting area for the heather managed for from NAMA (the National Asset offers opportunities for peregrines and merlins (with grouse. The same shoot also Management Agency), which innovative management. potential breeding habitat for took many hares and small was selling property it had The acquisition will not offer the latter, rarer species). The numbers of snipe and rescued during the financial very many new opportunities signature species, however, is woodcock; all are still found crisis of 2008. Mountaineering for hillwalkers, as access to this red grouse – it occurs sparingly today, though, sadly, harriers Ireland had pushed hard for land is already relatively throughout the area. are now very rare visitors. this acquisition, for its scenic, unrestricted, but it is likely the As recently as the 1970s a environmental and hillwalking footfall will grow. Indeed, being Red grouse small herd of red deer value, and the government so close to Dublin, it has the A shooting estate was formerly inhabited the Seefingan to must be commended for potential to become one of the managed by the Cobbe family Kippure ridge, descending in adding this exceptional more popular parts of the park. (of Newbridge Demesne, winter to the Coronation property to the national parks Oddly enough, hillwalkers Donabate, Co Dublin) from Plantation south of it. Sadly, portfolio. using this area seldom stray far Glenasmole Lodge, covering the herd no longer exists, with The property covers the from the Kippure to Seechon northern slopes of Kippure – ridge, so much of it is rarely Dublin’s highest mountain at visited and feels very empty 752m – and partly surrounds and remote. Were it not for the the Glenasmole valley. The impact of grazing sheep and Featherbed, where in the past deer, and the frequent burning Dubliners saved turf on plots (illegal in an SAC without the rented from Powerscourt NPWS’s express permission), it Estate, adjoins it to the east, would probably be much richer while in the west it is book- in upland wildlife. ended by afforested hills and The higher ground is

➤ Cóilín MacLochlainn is the designer of the Irish Mountain Log.

Red grouse: still found nesting in the Dublin Mountains but much

Photographs: Cóilín MacLochlainn (Kippure, Alpine clubmoss), Andrew Kelly (red grouse) (red Kelly Andrew Alpine clubmoss), (Kippure, Cóilín MacLochlainn Photographs: rarer now than in the past. Photograph: Andrew Kelly 24 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Pine Forest A wild and remote R114 reservoir Glenasmole P Ballinascorney Lower area, not far from P Cruagh Wood Dublin city but with Piperstown some good hillwalking R114

and some great views. R115 Cruagh reservoir Mtn L shooting and hybridisation Map: Cóil`ín MacLochlainn with Japanese Sika deer the Killakee Mtn likely culprits. Glenasmole Ballymorefinn Upper L P Glassamucky Native woodland Cunard The heather bog gives way to Glassavullaun Glenasmole rough grassland, furze and Lodge P Kylenabrone bracken as we descend to Seechon cataract P Featherbed lower ground. Here, the L Corrig Mtn placenames Glassavullaun and L Military Road

old turf road Glassamucky (meaning the R115 River pastures of the bullocks and Dodder the pigs, respectively) mark P areas of drier ground. Today, Castlekelly some of these areas are Kilbride army Mareen’s Brook The White Road Slade covered in bracken, indicating rifle range Brook places with dry, mineral soil Cot Brook that once held native woodland. Sadly, no native woodland L

survives today, though the Tromanallison streams feeding the River Dodder babble through Land to be added to Wicklow Mountains National Park Lough Bray declivities flanked thinly with Lower Bracken (formerly wooded area) rowan, birch, holly and alder. Deciduous woodland Kylenabrone (meaning the Kippure L Bray woodland of sorrows) near L Upr Glenasmole Lodge is a narrow Upper Glenasmole finger of oak woodland running up a narrow defile (with a little- there is no easy round route to on Kippure. The ‘heather award that assesses the litter- known cataract) on the Dodder get you back. desert’ panorama rising to the management and nature-friendly stream, though unfortunately it Seechon is more easily south-east would once have aspects of rural roads in Dublin is being choked by rhodo- reached from the held woodlands of birch, and Wicklow. dendron, a garden escape Ballinascorney to Kilbride road, willow, rowan and pine. The White Road, sometimes spreading out from the lodge. from where you can make your From here you can continue called the ‘Old Bog Road,’ starting There is scope for restoring way up through the forestry. on to Corrig Mountain or to from the Featherbed, provides a native woodland, especially From the top, there is an Ballymorefinn Hill, with views pleasant short stroll and the along the Ballymorefinn and impressive view of Kippure, over Glenasmole and experience of being in a wild Glassavullaun stretches. The Seefingan and mountains to Piperstown. Looking down at mountain area, with plenty of area’s future sustainable the south. An ancient plant them, note how old field challenging terrain beyond the management needs to be species, fir clubmoss, is found boundaries are still present, end of the track. achieved in cooperation with on this hill along with the rare with tiny walled or hedged For a short walk to a dramatic the farmers who still have Alpine clubmoss (pictured) plots. Some traces of Famine- view, leave the Military Road and rights on the land. while the rarer stag’s-horn era lazybeds can still be seen, follow the ridge overlooking Lough clubmoss is found sparingly notably on Ballymorefinn. Bray Lower; it offers a stunning Walks Piperstown and Killakee are view of the lough and upper Kippure with its TV mast two low, heathery hills on the (erected in 1960) is well-known eastern side, with good views Glencree. and recognisable from a great to Kippure. They are vulnerable Support is needed for distance, but it has a flat and to wildfires, and Piperstown is developing a new management unattractive summit. Hill- almost bare at present, though plan for Wicklow Mountains walkers who take the route it still attracts red grouse. National Park. The current plan from the Military Road to its In Glenasmole itself, outside expired in 2009, and both the area top can follow the ridge west the park boundary, a narrow and the management challenges to Seefingan, from where there bóithrín weaving through of the park have since expanded. is an impressive view of the Cunard features rustic stone The acquisition of the Kippure Coronation Plantation. From cottages, hawthorn hedges lands may provide the impetus here, you can proceed to Corrig and drystone walls; it won the needed to develop a new Mountain and Seechon, but PURE Mile title in 2015, an management plan Photograph: Cóilín MacLochlainn Photograph: ■ Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 25 SPONSORED

HIKING ON LA GOMERA

La Gomera in the Canary Islands has few beaches but it is a walker’s paradise. Patrick O’Sullivan reports.

have been lucky enough to have been walking in Above: Walkers organises walking holidays on, and had heard about the the Canaries twice before, once on a short trip on the track delights of walking on La Gomera, where he also does looking at hiking possibilities on Tenerife and back along the occasional trips. He kindly invited me to join a group then, another time, for a week on El Hierro. I say coast towards going to La Gomera in February this year. ‘lucky,’ because the islands seem designed for Agulo. Shane is an interesting man. A retired army officer, walkers from Ireland. Generally, there is easy during his career he was Aide-De-Camp to the Opposite, top access by plane, the climate is subtropical with President of Ireland. Now aged 80, he initially right: Conical hot summers and generally mild winters, and there are established the first dive centre in Ireland in Dublin in I rock spire several islands to choose from, with plenty of great (volcanic plug). 1974 with his wife, Olli. They moved to Connemara, walking. The hiking possibilities range from coastal walks where they established Scubadive West in 1992. Their up to alpine hikes on Tenerife’s Mount Teide, Spain’s Opposite, Irish dive centres are now run by their sons. highest mountain and the third tallest volcano in the centre: Bird’s- Shane first went to the Canaries on holiday and then world at 3,718m. eye view of the established a dive centre on El Hierro. Some years ago, The Canary Islands are a Spanish archipelago located village of Agulo he started offering walking holidays, mainly on El Hierro 100 kilometres west of Morocco in North Africa. There are from a glass- but with occasional weeks on La Gomera and La Palma. seven main islands – in decreasing size Tenerife, bottomed Like other Irish operators in the Canaries, he offers Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma, La viewing packages where you arrange your own flights to Gomera and El Hierro. The archipelago’s climate, beaches platform at Tenerife and he takes care of the rest, the self-catering and other natural attractions make the larger islands in Mirador de accommodation, the transport and the walking. particular popular tourist destinations. There are more Abrante hotel. La Gomera is about 370 square kilometres in area than two million people living in the Canaries, varying (roughly 19km wide x 19km long). Garajonay National from 900,000 on Tenerife, down to 24,000 on Opposite, Park, which was established in 1981 and named an La Gomera and 11,000 on El Hierro. bottom: UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986, covers just over The islands have a hot desert climate, but there is also Walkers 10% of the island. The national park is named after the a subtropical humid climate in the middle of some of the following track islands, supporting rich forest growth. above rock formation of Garajonay, the highest point on the La Gomera, the greenest of the islands, is thirty Vallehermoso. island at 1,487m. Other attractions in the national park kilometres from Tenerife, a short hop on the ferry from Los Cristianos. I went there on a week’s holiday organised by Shane Gray. I had been to El Hierro with Shane, the main island that he

➤ Patrick O’Sullivan is the Editor of the Irish Mountain Log. Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan. Map: Wikimedia Commons Map: O’Sullivan. Patrick Photographs: 26 Irish Mountain Log are the massive, cone-shaped rocks that are found there. These are volcanic plugs, exposed by erosion of softer rocks surrounding them. The national park is crossed by eighteen paths, trekking being one of the main tourist activities on the island. The walking on La Gomera is as varied and interesting as it was on El Hierro when I went there in November 2016. This time, we took a ferry from the port at Los Cristianos across to San Sebastian on the east coast of La Gomera; it took about one hour. La Gomera is a small island with a rocky coast, making it less attractive to beach-seeking tourists. The strikingly dramatic mountain scenery of volcanic peaks is scored by around fifty deep gorges. The mountains are bedecked with laurel forests, with cultivated terraces in the valleys. After settling into some well-appointed apartments, we set off on our first walk. After a perhaps 25km drive across the island to the north-east coast, we set out to walk up to the Mirador de Abrante, with its glass-bottomed viewing platform jutting out over a 400m drop, overlooking the village of Agulo below. We walked up a good path at the back of the ridge in about two hours and, after lunch in the Mirador, descended more steeply on the Agulo side of the ridge. From the Mirador, you could see the impressive snow-capped Mount Teide on Tenerife island. ONE OF THE MEMORABLE FEATURES OF THE HOLIDAY WAS DINING TOGETHER IN LOCAL RESTAURANTS EVERY EVENING. That evening, the group was invited to Shane Gray’s apartment for a ‘happy hour’ before we all went to one of the local restaurants for a meal together. We did that every evening and this social aspect was one of the memorable features of the holiday. Another walk also began near Agulo on the north-east coast, climbing steeply up paths used by the locals and walking back along the coast. The following day we drove up into the mountains to a cone-shaped peak and set off to walk down towards the coast and to Playa Santiago. An initially steep descent levelled off as we got into the valley system, which we followed downwards on a clear track. We had lunch in a restaurant at the roadhead. We also did a forest walk, partly on some of the circular route around Garajonay National Park. Starting high in the mountains, after clearing the striking forest, the valleys we walked down through were narrow and steep-sided. Eventually we passed another impressive rock spire, the Roques de San Pedro, and soon reached the roadhead, ending our walk close to the sea. The next day, we drove to Vallehermoso in the north-west of the island. From there we set off on local tracks, leading up and around a prominent rock spire and heading up a valley, still walking on good trails. The following day, after visiting one or two places of interest locally, we caught the evening ferry back to Tenerife. We had some time the next day before we flew home, so we were able to drive up to the cable-car station on Mount Teide. The cable-car was closed for weather reasons, but we went for a short walk on the snow up towards a mountain hut on Teide. It was a great finish to a very varied week in the Canaries. Despite the mixed weather at that time of the year on La Gomera, the walking was very varied and highly enjoyable.

FIND OUT MORE: Please see the advertisements on page 67 for more information on walking holidays in the Canaries Photographs: Patrick O’Sullivan Patrick Photographs: ■

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 27 ICE CLIMBING

ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP

Eimir McSwiggan reports on how she fared in this year’s UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup.

ith two hundred and twenty-five Above: Eimir the result any competitor is hoping for, but that is how registered climbers from twenty-six McSwiggan competitions go, sometimes. It is important not to lose different countries, the 2018 Ice competing in heart! Climbing World Cup was the biggest Rabenstein in Within a few days, we were on the road again to round Italy in and most successful UIAA ice two of the competition at Rabenstein (January 25-27th), January. climbing season to date. This is a in the beautiful Tyrol valley in Italy. This is the favourite strongW indication of the growth in popularity of venue of many competitors, with a good mix of ice and competitive ice climbing. Below: Eimir technical terrain. Conditions were good; the weather was The season kicked off on January 18-20th with the takes third cold enough to keep the ice in firm condition but warm opening competition in the picturesque ski village of spot on the winners’ enough to give optimal conditions for the climbers. Saas-Fee in Switzerland. Being the only indoor venue of podium in the circuit and set in the central void of a ten-storey I was relieved to make it through to the finals and Hohhot in underground car park, Saas Fee boasts notoriously secure fifth place overall. Korea’s Song Ha-Na Rai took February. technical routes on hand-cut granite holds. It also offers gold in the women’s category. the best close-up action for spectators, who can get within arm’s reach of the competitors as they navigate their way up the wall. Unfortunately, Saas Fee proved a difficult start to the season for me in the lead category of the Ice Climbing World Tour, as I was unable to make it through the qualification round. After months of training, this is not

➤ Eimir McSwiggan iis originally from Gortin, Co Tyrone, but has been living in South Korea since 2010. She currently teaches English in Kyungbok University and spends every other free moment rock climbing or training for the ice climbing season. She has been competing for Ireland in the Ice Climbing World Cup since 2013 and was placed fifth in the overall Ice Climbing World Cup rankings for the 2016/2017 season. Photographs: Eimir McSwiggan Collection McSwiggan Eimir Photographs: 28 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 IT WAS A GOOD SEASON FOR ME, FINISHING SEVENTH OVERALL IN THE WORLD RANKINGS

The highlight of the event was Mohammadreza Safdarian storming past the top-ranked men to take home Iran’s first ever Ice Climbing World Cup . The next round was in the contrasting environment of Hohhot in Outer Mongolia, China (February 2-4th). A huge shining white-domed wall towering over a sea of yurts, in the middle of the most isolated and barren of landscapes, was the competition venue. A 20m Genghis Khan and his myriad of warriors looked on from a distance. Temperatures ranged from -10 to -20°C throughout the weekend. It was the city of Hohhot’s first time to host an Ice Climbing World Cup round and, as to be expected, there were some teething problems. With no heating in the warm-up areas and poor lighting as night approached, the qualification round did have a certain natural alpine feel to it. A new wall with such unique conditions created a level playing field and everyone was ready to fight for a place in the next round. The angle of the wall in Hohhot and the Russian route- setting style suited my training perfectly. I felt a strange lack of pressure. Before I knew it, I had topped the semi- Above: Eimir I was tenth out to climb. Maybe it was due to my final route and gone into the finals of the round in second makes us complacency or just a lack of focus but suddenly, just three place. The final route was much harder; every move proud to be metres into my climb, I made a mistake and pinged off the seemed so far away. As I reached the roof section, I was Irish in wall. That was that, the end of my Ice Climbing World Cup losing dexterity in my hands from the cold. I struggled for Hohhot in season! It was a long way to travel, but perhaps I had almost one minute to clip one . Finally, I made it Outer learned the most valuable lesson of all. and latched onto the top hold, a few seconds over the Mongolia in In the end, South Korean world champion Woonseon nine-minute time limit. Yoonsun Shin of Korea and Russia’s February. Shin won the women’s lead title, despite fierce competition Maria Tolokonina (who was last year’s world champion in from compatriot Hannarai Song and Russia’s multi- the speed category) both topped the route within the Below: Eimir talented Maria Tolokonina. competing in time limit, leaving me in a very contented third-place The men’s crown was claimed by another Russian, Rabenstein in podium spot. Maxim Tomilov. Russian Ekaterina Koshcheeva won the Italy in women’s speed ice with fellow The following week, we moved to Cheongsong in South January. Korea (February 9-11th), home ground for me and also my Russian, Nikolai Kuzovlev, winning the men’s category. favourite competition venue. The routes were, as usual, All in all, it was a good season for me, finishing in seventh long and sustained, with lots of transitioning between ice place overall in the world rankings. I would like to thank blocks and dry tooling. Day one of the two-day Mountaineering Ireland and the Irish Association of Korea competition was quite exhausting, with a long time spent for their support, and everyone from the climbing in the isolation zone in preparation for both qualification community at home who sent messages of and semi-final rounds. I was relieved to qualify for the encouragement ■ finals. After a good night’s sleep, we were back for the finals. The route was long. I climbed as fast as I could, but I knew time was running out rapidly. A misplaced foot set me off balance as I moved from an ice barrel onto the roof and, before I knew it, I was in mid-air. However, it was enough to secure a fifth place finish for me and, at that stage, I was sitting in overall fifth place ranking for the season. The final competition of the series was scheduled at Kirov in Russia, three weeks later (March 2-4th). With the distance, time and expense involved, I was very much in two minds whether to go or not. I had never competed in Russia before, but had heard so much about the uniqueness of the structure and competition there. In the end, I made a last-minute decision to book a ticket. A seven-hour flight and a fourteen-hour train journey later, I arrived in Kirov. Set on the underside of an old ski jump, the Russian venue was as impressive as it had looked in the photos and videos I had studied. The weather was mild and the qualification route looked straightforward. I felt confident. Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 29 Climbing

Pictured on a multi-pitch trad climb during the Mourne Youth Trad Climbing Festival (left to right): Luka Hallissey, Rory Cummings, Benedict Thurston, Daragh McConvey and Caelan MacNamara. Photograph: Kevin Kilroy NI YOUTH PROGRAMME The Northern Ireland Youth Development Programme is now in Year 2 of a four-year programme. In this article, Kevin Kilroy reviews its progress in Year 1 and reports on its further plans.

he scope of the focus of the programme support for youth climbing terms of training opportunities Northern Ireland Youth broadened significantly after clubs across Northern Ireland for club volunteers, coaches Development meetings between as a primary programme aim. and officials, there were 1,157 TProgramme, as set out Mountaineering Ireland and In Year 1, the Hanging individual learning by the funders, Sport Northern Sport NI at the end of Year 1. Rockers, the North West Youth opportunities in Year 1 of the Ireland (Sport NI), is to develop The reason for this change is to Climbing Team, Gilford Youth programme, significantly and support new and existing help ensure that the targets of Climbing Club, Coleraine Youth greater than the target of 106 mountaineering clubs across Sport NI’s Sporting Clubs Climbing Club and Mourne set by Sport NI. These learning Northern Ireland, to grow club 2017-2021 programme are Youth Climbing Club all opportunities included formal membership, and to provide met. Nevertheless, received support and training training courses, such as Route training and support for club Mountaineering Ireland is opportunities from Setting (RSA 1 and 2), volunteers, coaches and committed to sustaining Mountaineering Ireland. In FUNdamentals 1 and 2 and officials. These clubs could be Level One Climbing Coach youth climbing clubs, existing Award Training, and informal adult mountaineering clubs or training opportunities, such as any other clubs involved in mountaineering instruction at mountaineering (namely club events, a route-setter hillwalking or rock climbing) mentor scheme and ‘learn to within Northern Ireland. belay’ courses for parents In addition, clubs will be actively involved with youth supported to engage with climbing clubs. Sport NI’s Clubmark NI Sport NI’s Clubmark NI accreditation scheme to scheme is Northern Ireland’s ensure quality structures are in quality standard for sports place to sustain mountain- clubs. Mountaineering Ireland eering clubs across Northern plans to encourage and reward Ireland. clubs that wish to engage with This is quite a change in the Clubmark NI scheme over Part of the group at the Mourne Youth Trad Climbing Festival after a great scope from the initial day’s climbing at Spellack. Top row (left to right): James Kellagher, Cathal the next three years. For more programme submission as a O’Boyle, Caelan MacNamara, Kieran O’Hara, Eabha Hallissey, Stephen information on the scheme, solely youth development- Ferris. Bottom row (left to right): Bonnita Thurston, Rhyna Conroy, Paul please visit www.sportni.net. Kellagher. Photograph: Shane Black Photographs: Kevin Kilroy (top), Shane Black (bottom) Shane Black (top), Kilroy Kevin Photographs: orientated programme. The If your club is interested in 30 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 the scheme and in discovering Written by the benefits and rewards of Kevin Kilroy, engagement, please email Youth Development [email protected] to Officer for Northern express your interest as soon Ireland as possible. hoped that a youth climbing Recent club activity club will be formed, which A group of young climbers Mountaineering Ireland will from Coleraine Youth Climbing support over the following three Club, who climb at North years of the programme. If you Coast Integrated College’s are interested in getting involved climbing wall in Coleraine each as a young climber, parent, Wednesday night, took a trip to volunteer or coach, then email Murlough Bay on April 14th this [email protected] to year for their first outdoor register your interest. climbing experience. The group was led by volunteers John Events this summer and Hamish Wilkinson and Over the summer, there are a Tony, Peter and Jack host of events for climbers of all McGonigle. For most of them, it ages to attend. On July 6th, 7th was their first time rock and 8th, several workshops will climbing outside after a year or be delivered by top Irish so climbing indoors at their climbers Ricky Bell, Michael school wall. The weather was Mountaineering instructor and Irish climbing legend Paul Dunlop passes on his flared granite wire placement wisdom to Eabha Hallissey on her Duffy and Lucy Mitchell, at the fantastic and everyone first trad lead at Spellack. Photo: Oisin Hallissey Outdoor Learning Symposium, climbed lots of problems. based at Tollymore National Our thanks especially to Outdoor Centre. John Wilkinson for organising and etiquette. There were hospitality for a big team of On August 13-17th, Tollymore the event and to Tony numerous demands from the hungry climbers! th will host a Youth McGonigle for driving the mini- young people participating to Also, on Saturday, May 26 , Mountaineering Week. Check bus. Also, thank you to ‘climb on the big cliff next several younger members of the events page on the Tollymore National Outdoor time,’ inspired by the sight of the Mourne and Gilford Youth Mountaineering Ireland website Centre for the loan of extra Fair Head in the background. Climbing Clubs went to the for booking information. bouldering mats. The Mourne Youth Climbing recently redeveloped Altnadue There will also be several other Rory Cummings and I Club has successfully gained Quarry near Castewellan, Co trips and events organised provided instruction to the affiliation to Mountaineering Down, where they got a taste Ireland as an Aspirant Club. The for sport climbing. They had a through the local youth climbing

Photographs: Oisin Hallissey Photographs: group on bouldering safety club committee comprises great time there, as did their clubs, which will be open to members and guests. Get in Rhyna Conroy at Claire Hardy (Captain), Vanessa parents. Our thanks to the Spellack. Photo: Oisin Hallissey Woods (Secretary), Michael team of instructors, Eamon contact with your local club to Murphy (Treasurer and Quinn, Michael Murphy and find out more. Children’s Officer), Emma Sinead Murray. A big thank you to the Owens (Children’s Officer) and The Gilford Youth Climbing volunteers who coached and Oisin Hallissey (Trips Officer). Club now meets weekly at inspired the young climbers at On May 26-27th, the club Gilford Community Centre on the Mourne Youth Trad Fest – Ali hosted several events for Tuesday evenings from Moles, Stephen Ferris, Shane young climbers of all abilities in 6.30pm until 8.30pm. These Black, Peter Reid, Kieran O’Hara, the Mournes. A group of ten weekly sessions have been Paul Kellagher, Leman Lemanski, experienced young climbers organised and supported by Rory Cummings, Neeku teamed up with ten highly Mountaineering Ireland for Shamekhi – and to the team of experienced volunteers for a several months to help young instructors – Eamon Quinn, weekend of traditional people locally to gain the skills Michael Murphy, Sinead Murray – climbing. This was the first ever and confidence to become and volunteers Neeku Shamekhi, Mourne Youth Trad Climbing independent indoor climbers. Richard Morgan and adventure Festival and it is intended that When that is achieved, it is photographer Craig Hiller ■ it will become an annual event, hosted by the club, to allow Contacts for NI youth climbing clubs young climbers from around Mourne Youth Climbing Club: [email protected] Ireland to experience the Gilford Youth Climbing Team: [email protected] delights of the Mourne granite. Hanging Rockers: [email protected] Thanks to Oisin and Emma North West Youth Climbing Team: [email protected] Hallissey for hosting the event Coleraine Youth Climbing Club: Tel: 07722 018457 and providing fantastic Belfast: [email protected]

Irish Mountain Log 31 Climbing

2018 YOUTH CLIMBING SERIES Alison Treacy reports on the 2018 Youth Climbing Series and her participation in the Grand Final in Edinburgh.

or the past three years I Dublin Climbing Centre. You have competed in the have to bring your ‘A’ game to Youth Climbing Series. every round.

F IAN LAWLOR These competitions have Competitors in my category, given me some of my most Female Youth A, are required vivid and enjoyable climbing to lead-climb three routes and experiences. to boulder three problems. The The Youth Climbing Series higher you climb on each consists of three regional route or boulder, the more rounds followed by the Grand points you earn. At the end of Final, which takes place at the each round your points are Edinburgh International tallied and you are ranked Climbing Arena in Scotland, based on how many points where the top three Irish you earned compared to climbers in each age and others in your category. gender category compete At the end of the regional with the top climbers from rounds, the three climbers Wales, Scotland and six from each category with the different regions of England. most points qualify to Each year, I was driven compete in the Grand Final. around Ireland by my dad to One of the reasons the take part in the three regional Youth Climbing Series is such rounds to try to qualify for the a positive experience for me is Grand Final. This year, the the atmosphere at the events. regional rounds took place in Of course, it brings out the Awesome Walls Dublin, competitive edge in everyone, Awesome Walls Cork and the but the support from not just Caoimhe Broderick competing in Round 3 of the Youth Climbing Series at the Dublin Climbing Centre in March. your family or club but also times every week, following a from other competitors is programme I was given by my massive. Cork Youth Climbing Club

IAN LAWLOR When you are making a coaches. For the first three move that might decide your weeks, my training was chances of qualifying for the strength-orientated; it then Grand Final, there is no doubt progressed to strength your ears will be flooded with endurance training for encouragement. It was not another two weeks. Strength uncommon for me to leave endurance is really important each round with no voice for Edinburgh as the walls can after cheering on all my reach up to twenty metres in friends and shouting myself height. hoarse. The final week was a ‘taper’ In an average week I week, where my sessions probably train for about six became more moderate. hours, which means three Rather than leaving my trips back and forth to sessions feeling exhausted Awesome Walls Cork. After and drained like I had for the earning my spot to compete two weeks prior, I focused on in the Grand Final, I was even just enjoying climbing before more motivated. heading over to Edinburgh and nailing the harder routes My training there. For the six weeks between My dad and I flew over the Brian McDonald competing in Round 3 of the Youth Climbing Series at the qualification and the Grand day before the Grand Final. As Dublin Climbing Centre in March. Final I trained four to five soon as we landed and 32 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Written by Alison Treacy, Captain, Cork Youth Climbing Club

Jonsdottir, Joe Feeney, Dylan separated by the narrowest of Murray, Joseph Convery, Eve margins. Having placed third Buckley, Napsugar Judit Bodi, last year, and second the year Seán Henchion, Daire Oglesby, before that, Seán finally Matthew Murray, Bonita finishing on top was a huge Thurston, Ciara Burgoyne, accomplishment. Eimear Henchion, Daniel This year’s Youth Climbing Creedon, Joshua Hoare, Series was probably my Reuben Aiken, Faith Blaney, favourite and has given me a Amy Orr, Matthew Smith, lot of memories and new Luka Hallissey, Dillon friends. To all those reading McLaughlin, Caoimhe this, I would definitely Broderick, Jessie Smith encourage you to become McCarthy, Darragh Hoare and involved next year, whether you enter with your school or Daniel Samoylenko. I was your club or maybe you enter overwhelmed with pride every your own child. I can’t wait to time I saw someone I could see you all next year! call my team-mate giving it their all on a climb. ➤ Alison Treacy is the Captain of IAN LAWLOR One of our greatest the Cork Youth Climbing Club Jude McInerney competing in Round I of the Youth Climbing Series at achievements this year was and a member of the Awesome Walls Dublin in January. Séan Henchion’s win in Male Mountaineering Ireland Climbing Development Squad ■ collected our rental car, we climbers, some of whom I had Youth D, aged 11. A Super-Final went straight to the met in previous years and had to be put in place for Séan competition venue. Every time others I had never spoken to and Sam Hammond, as they I go there I can feel my jaw before. We would discuss how had both climbed all three hitting the floor. The place is we might make a move on the routes and three boulders on just spectacular, to say the crux, offer beta from a their first attempt. Both least. As soon as I walked in I previous climb, and cheer each climbers were amazing on the Sponsors of the 2018 could immediately spot other other on when climbing. I Super-Final route and were Youth Climbing Series climbers preparing for the remember all of us freaking Grand Final. I did some light out together, too, when our climbing to just engage my demo climber had to take four muscles, settle my mind and rests on our second route! get used to the height I would The difficulty of the climbs be climbing to the next day. themselves for Female Youth A was as to be expected in such Competition day a prestigious competition, the On the morning of the minimum being 6c and rising competition, I got up bright to about 7b. Caoimhe and early, leaving our hotel at Broderick and Jessie Smith about 8.00am. The McCarthy, the two other Irish competition did not start until climbers in Female Youth A, 9.30am, but we had to allow had never been to Edinburgh ourselves time to sort out our before. I think the level they registration and do a proper were climbing at for such a warm-up with the rest of the new environment and high team. I had prepared well for standard was incredible. the Grand Final and I was In my honest and entirely confident in my abilities, but I objective opinion, I think that was still nervous about the every member of the Irish challenge of the day ahead of team performed out- me. standingly! Our team at the

During the competition, I Grand Final was Lilou Conroy, IAN LAWLOR Tierna Hartrey competing in Round I of the 2018 Youth Climbing Series at met so many amazing Tara Henchion, Ilmur Awesome Walls Dublin in January. Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 33 Climbing

Written by Keira Blaquez-Burke, BOULDERING CAMP Cork Youth Climbing Club Keira Blaquez-Burke reports on a Mountaineering Ireland trip to Fontainebleau.

ast Easter, as part of the with no rain, so we were out Mountaineering Ireland climbing all day, which was LClimbing Development awesome! I climbed some really Squad, I was lucky enough to cool red boulder problems and get the opportunity to go to some slabs. The outdoor CLAIRE COMISKEY Fontainebleau for the Outdoor bouldering really improved my Bouldering Camp. I went with footwork, which is great, three other girls and four boys because footwork is very from various parts of Ireland, important in climbing. under the guidance of two The Fontainebleau sandstone amazing coaches, Terry taught me how to be more O’Connor and Claire Comiskey. precise with my feet and how It was my first trip away from to use the tiniest of holds. my family, so I was a little The next day, we went back nervous, but mostly very to Gorge aux Chats, where I excited. climbed loads of blue problems. On the first day, we got up at Again, the weather was great, roughly 8.00am and, after even a little sunny. I was really breakfast, headed out to the enjoying myself and did not Rocher du Potala area. As part want to be leaving the next day, of our warm-up, we climbed even if I was also looking problems on the yellow circuit forward to seeing my family (grades 2-3) and the orange again. I got lots of videos of circuit (grades 3-4). As I found myself climbing. When we got my feet, I then went on to the back to the house there were blue circuit (grades 4-5). ‘Le Gang’ in Fontainebleau. ants all over our bags; they had hitched a ride from the forest, but why would they have In Fontainebleau, the boulder wanted to leave? problems have a little spot of On our final day, our flight paint to let you know which home was not until late in the circuit you are on. evening, so we could still go Unfortunately, it began to rain CLAIRE COMISKEY climbing. We went to the Roche after lunch and, although we aux Sabots area, which is where tried to wait it out, the rock the classic ‘L’Oblique’ is located. remained wet and we couldn’t Although I didn’t complete this climb any more – the classic problem, I did give it a sandstone gets delicate when really good try! it is wet. This was my first taste To sum up, I had an amazing of outdoor bouldering; it felt time and would love the very different to indoor opportunity to return some day. climbing, but I absolutely loved I learned so much from the it! coaches but also from the For our second day of other climbers I was with. I climbing, we went to a would say now that outdoor different area, Gorge aux bouldering in beautiful Chats. I climbed lots of blues surroundings is so much more and even a couple of reds enjoyable than indoors! Going (grades 5-6). It rained for a on this trip inspired me to want while after lunch, but we were to climb more outdoors. Thanks able to climb for longer than again to Terry, Claire and my the previous day, though not as fellow climbers! long as we would have liked. Day three was my favourite ➤ Keira Blaquez-Burke is a member of the Cork Youth day of all and in my favourite Climbing Club and the area, Franchard Isatis. The Mountaineering Ireland Climbing Matthew Smith tackles a boulder problem in Fontainebleau. weather on this day was great, Development Squad ■ 34 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Training Opportunities ADVENTURE DEGREE Learning Through Adventure: GMIT is offering a BA Honours degree in Outdoor Education at the GMIT Mayo Campus.

MIT’s BA Honours degree in Outdoor Education contains an exciting combination of academic work and practical training Gfor National Governing Body-level qualifications in adventure sports. One day a week is spent taking part in adventure sports on the mountains, lakes, rivers and sea. In Year 1, the focus is on gaining personal skills in adventure sports and then, in the following years, on leadership-level training in those sports. There are also optional trips throughout Ireland and further afield, which allow specialisation in a range of adventure sports. Outdoor Education course participants in the uplands. The rest of the week is spent in the classroom or on field trips, with an emphasis on active learning. Students gain an understanding of the wide range of elective modules, which developmental role of outdoor allows students to tailor the What subjects will I study? education and they build programme to their specific interest. There are modules in five core areas: experience in designing and running educational programmes. Through What career opportunities will I have? Adventure Sports Leadership and field trips and lectures, students The therapeutic, educational, • Safety Management explore and examine Irish developmental and recreational Developmental Psychology and landscape, heritage and ecology, aspects of outdoor education are now • Teaching/Facilitation Skills and realise the potential of widely recognised and utilised within The Irish Geological and Cultural adventure tourism, green exercise many sectors in Ireland, such as • Landscape and nature therapy. Safety schools, social care organisations, Environmental Studies and Ecology management, first aid and rescue adventure tourism and youth services. • Health and Fitness, First Aid and are other core elements. Graduates find employment as • Water Safety. These core areas are supported by a instructors, managers and field studies officers in outdoor education centres and organisations offering adventure sports, adventure tourism, outdoor learning and environmental education. There are also employment opportunities within educational organisations and youth services as facilitators, youth development officers and managers. Forest schools, green exercise and nature therapy are significant growth areas. Graduates are also employed in the area of rural development, countryside recreation and rural or eco-tourism.

➤ For more information, see www.gmit.ie/outdoor- education/bachelor-arts-honours- Outdoor Education course participants in the Mournes. outdoor-education ■ Photographs: GMIT Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 35 THE COMERAGHS

CELEBRATING THE COMERAGHS

Michael O’Donoghue describes two of his favourite spots in the Comeraghs in Waterford.

here is no doubt that humans, Above: The Boolas Our special places vary; for one person it may be especially hillwalkers, have special paternoster lakes a remote mountain-top, for another a picturesque places that affect them in seen from the river bend, for a third an evocative ruin. It is not indefinable ways. As Nicholas Crane Comeragh plateau. surprising to my mind that many of these special puts it in his book The Making of the places are found in mountains. Mountains have a British Landscape, we have a Below: sense of timelessness about them, a sense of predisposition to invest locations Overlooking Ned permanence that make us humans all too aware of Twith attachments. Why do we become attached to Curran’s farm with our own mortality. They seem to speak to our souls certain places? That is the sixty-four thousand dollar the shoulder of and draw us back time after time to imbibe. Is there question! Do these places fire the human Leacanthimlay anything, for example, to beat ‘the serenity of a clear imagination or lift the spirit? Do they help us accept, behind. lake’, as John Denver put it in his if not understand, our place in the cosmos? song Rocky Mountain High? However it works, as sentient beings, we seem to have a need to switch off from the treadmill of modern life and, for however brief a period, visit our special places, usually on our own, perhaps not the most advisable thing to do in a mountain environment, to experience the tranquillity and pleasure they give us.

➤ Michael O’Donoghue lives near Rathgormack in County Waterford. He is a founder member of Rathgormack Ramblers Hillwalking Club and a member of Mountaineering Ireland. He is an experienced hillwalker, having led walks in Ireland, England, Scotland and Wales. Photographs: John Power (the Boolas lakes), Michael O’Donoghue (Ned Curran’s farm) (Ned Curran’s Michael O’Donoghue Boolas lakes), (the John Power Photographs: 36 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 NED CURRAN’S ABANDONED FARMHOUSE IS A MAGNET FOR HILLWALKERS.

My local passion: the Comeraghs My local mountains are the Comeraghs. With their tremendous glacial heritage, the Comeraghs are a special mountain range. For walkers, they are an absolute treasure trove with so much to choose from: windswept ridges, squelching peat bog, towering cliffs, serene lakes, interesting Bronze Age sites, secluded valleys with whispering streams, brooding coums on cold winter days. I have been visiting these mountains for over thirty years, and below I describe two Comeragh places that are special to me.

Ned Curran’s evocative ruin Ned Curran’s is probably the most evocative ruin in the Comeraghs. It is situated on the banks of the Tay, in the jaws of Coumtay, Coummahon’s lesser-known, Above: The magnet for hillwalkers. One visit and you can see, or westerly neighbour. To get to it from Leamybrien on ruins of Ned should I say, feel why. Its situation by the banks of the the Dungarvan to Waterford road, take the R676 Curran’s house Tay and backed by the majestic coum is idyllic. towards Carrick-on-Suir. After five kilometres turn on the bank of It comprises two small fields and two larger ones, left at Mahon Bridge and follow the minor road, sign- the Tay, with enclosed by stone walls dotted with Scots pine and posted ‘Comeragh Drive.’ The first turn right is to Coumtay holly trees. At its heart is the atmospheric ruin. As John Mahon Falls. Ignore that, but take the second right, behind. O’Donohoe said in Eternal Echoes, ‘A ruin is never 1km further on. Seven hundred metres up this road, simply empty. It remains a vivid temple of absence.’ park carefully at the start of the path on your left Below: Ned This particular ruin is a powerful place; it almost (OS Map 75, grid reference S 311 067). Curran’s from forces you to empathise, to walk in someone else’s As you commence your walk along the path, you the front, shoes from over a hundred years ago. The tumbling are looking due west towards the Monavullagh Ridge. surrounded by stones of the field walls and buildings bear silent but You can see dry Coum Éag (the hollow of death) on holly and pine eloquent witness to a family’s attempts to eke out a your left. The dip in the skyline is Bearna na Madraí trees. living on the mountainside in distant, harsher times. saddle, while the highest point on the ridge to its The farm was abandoned just three generations ago, right is Seefin. Further right again, two glaciated not a long time in the greater scheme of things. The holes in the mountains beckon. The one on the left is first time I rambled down the boreen to Ned’s and Coum Knockaun; the one on the right is Coumtay. rested awhile on its ruined walls, I cried. You may too. ▲ The grandeur that is Coum Mahon is largely blocked out by the Comeragh Mountain-Davmore shoulder. After 300 metres’ walking, pass by the path on your left . Take the right fork at the Y-junction, 400m further on. At this point you should start to notice the walled fields and the cluster of Scots pines to the left of Coumtay. You are looking at an old abandoned farm known to hillwalkers as Ned Curran’s. Soon the path turns right and reaches a T- junction. Turn left and 200m later you reach the end of the forest path or track. A grassy path can be made out and, 100m along this, you come to the remnants of what looks like a walled boreen, leading all the way to Ned’s. You cross a small stream, head over the brow and will reach it after 500m, at S 297 076.

A temple to a bygone way of life You hear the Tay River before you see it. Cross it and tarry awhile at Ned Curran’s old ruin. Behind you, to the south, the Waterford coastline calls, while to the north lies Coumtay. This abandoned farm is a Photographs: Michael O’Donoghue Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 37 The Boolas: coum extraordinaire Above: Looking human occupation from well before Viking times. If The Boolas (Coum Iarthar on OS maps) is, at one across Coum this valley was a former herding place, it must have kilometre in length, the longest coum in the Iarthar and the been a very rocky one, but then it says so in the Comeraghs. It houses four ribbon or paternoster Boolas ribbon townland name, Boolacloghagh, meaning stony lakes, the innermost one being the highest lake in lakes towards the milking or herding place. Waterford, at over 550m. These lakes are sited at Gap (the half- To get to the Boolas, first go to Rathgormack near ever-decreasing elevations from the backwall to the hidden col) and Carrick-on-Suir. Travel west from the village towards impounding frontal moraine, and so the Boolas is Knockanaffrin Clonmel along the R678 for 3km to Clondonnell one of the best examples outside of Kerry of a Ridge. Cross. Turn left (south) here and travel for another glacial staircase. The Boolas is flanked on one side 3km to a sharp right-angled bend at Curraheen. Below: View over by Crotty’s Lake, another coum, and on the other by Parking is available in an old farmyard, 50m up the Crotty’s Lake (the the Gap, a glacial col or saddle. boreen, at S 306 154. Boolas’ easterly The origin of the name Boolas is very interesting. It There is a way-marked walk to the Boolas, so you neighbour) comes from the Irish word ‘buaile,’ which means a can follow the markers all the way to the coum. towards herding or milking place. Place-names experts tell us Curraheen is a very pleasant approach to the Knockanaffrin. that this is a very ancient root word, suggesting Comeraghs, so the outward journey is almost as Photographs: John Power (Coum an Iarthar), Michael O’Donoghue (Crotty’s Lake) (Crotty’s Michael O’Donoghue an Iarthar), (Coum John Power Photographs: 38 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 I GET THIS SENSE OF AWE AT Above: Evening Awe-inspiring natural cathedral at the Inner What is so special about the Boolas? It is just one of NATURE’S MAJESTY IN THE Boolas. the fourteen coums on the Comeraghs. It is not as big as, nor does it have as large a lake as, HEART OF THE BOOLAS. Below: Coumshingaun. Its vista is not as dramatic from a Descending distance as, say, Mahon Falls. Yet, there is something special as the destination itself. Go south along the from the Gap about it that draws me back again and again. old boreen , cross a stile, a couple of fields, another along Bóithrín Maybe it is the fact that you rarely meet other stile and one more field, until you reach the open na Sochraide people there. Maybe it is the peace and sense of (the funeral mountain after about fifteen minutes. The dramatic timelessness you feel when you rest on the bank of path). Knockanaffrin Ridge now stands proudly before you. the innermost lake. Maybe it is the variety of hump The dip in the ridge, on the left, is the Gap. A large and hollow, of lake and moraine (the geographer in moraine to the left obscures most of the Boolas me!). Maybe it is the stark brooding beauty of the coum at this stage. place under winter snow. Now turn left (south). Cross a couple of streams These coums are nature’s wondrous cathedrals and, when you reach the corner of Graigavalla forest, and, for me, nowhere in the Comeraghs do I get this keep the trees on your left and you soon pass a huge sense of awe at nature’s majesty as much as I get it boulder on your right. This boulder, according to in the heart of the Boolas ■ archaeologists, marks a Bronze Age cairn field site. It also marks the bottom of the ancient Bóithrín na Sochraide funeral path across the Gap from the Nire to the west. Ahead, Crotty’s Rock and the large chasm of the Boolas loom large. William Crotty was a robber hanged in Waterford in 1742. Continue along the edge of the wood until you reach the Douglas stream, which issues from the Boolas (S 315 123). Turn right now and follow the stream uphill for about 1km into the coum. When you reach the first small lake, the marked walk veers right. You may wish to follow sheep tracks across the moraine to explore the inner coum, which I would recommend. When ready, you can either retrace your steps or follow the waymarked route for another kilometre or so to the head of the Gap and, from there, turn right (north-east) and proceed downhill along Bóithrín na Sochraide, until you meet the huge boulder you passed on your way up. Turn left there and follow the markers back to the start. Photographs: John Power (Inner Boolas), Michael O’Donoghue (Bóithrín na Sochraide) Michael O’Donoghue Boolas), (Inner John Power Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 39 MONT BLANC

TOUR DU MONT BLANC Declan Alcock experienced some bad weather but also some good on the Mont Blanc Tour.

he has long Above: Kieran The first two days from (1,008m) to been billed as one of the world’s Alcock (Declan’s Refuge Nant Borrant were relatively easy, being classic high mountain treks. Starting brother) in Val mostly through valleys in good weather, passing the at Les Houches in the Ferret, Italy, on occasional hamlet of wooden chalets along the way. valley in France, the route covers 170 the eighth day While there was some rain towards the evening, it kilometres through the French, of their Tour du was a nice introduction to the region before we Italian and Swiss and crosses Mont Blanc. entered the higher mountains. nineT cols. Over the course of eleven days, it takes the From Nant Borrant the weather deteriorated walker through some of the most spectacular Below: Walking rapidly. We woke to heavy rain, which got scenery in the Alps, while making a circuit of Mont towards the progressively heavier while we walked up the valley Blanc. climb to Col du towards the climb to Col du Bonhomme (2,329m). As It is not necessarily the distance but the Bonhomme. we passed the on the way up, the rain turned cumulative ascent and descent each day that to snow and we stopped to layer up, with the makes this a tough trek, with a total height gain of weather closing in further. about 11,000m. My brother Kieran and I tackled the traditional, anti-clockwise route. Having reduced our packs to 8kg, plus water, and not wanting the extra weight of tents and sleeping bags, we booked all our accommodation in self-catering gîtes and mountain refuges before we left. This also allowed us to enjoy each day’s trek without having to try to book places for the night each morning.

➤ Declan Alcock is director of the NGO Engineers Without Borders Ireland. He is an individual member of Mountaineering Ireland and has trekked in the Nepalese Himalaya, the French, Swiss and Italian Alps, the High Atlas of Morocco, the Scottish Highlands and Ireland. Photographs: Declan Alcock Collection Alcock Declan Photographs: 40 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 AS THE WEATHER WAS BAD, 120 PEOPLE STOPPED AT THE REFUGE THAT NIGHT.

Visibility was very poor as we ascended and the snow was getting heavier, so we stopped at the small hut on the col for a brew. As the temperature dropped, it was obvious the weather was getting worse, so we decided to move on, knowing there was a refuge below the next col about 1½ hours away. We moved across the saddle, trying to pick out a trail through the snow and rock for the climb to Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,479m). On reaching the refuge, we decided not to stop but descended to the village of Les Chapieux instead. We heard later that one hundred and twenty people stopped at the refuge that night, as the weather was too bad to continue.

Spectacular views Above: Declan great view of Mont Blanc and the Brenva Glacier. A The fourth day started with a wet two-hour walk up on the Col de la of lightning on a nearby peak made us cut our break Valle de Glaciers, before crossing the Col de la Croix du short and move on. Seigne (2,512m), which forms the border between Bonhomme The trail followed the wall of the , with France and Italy. The only other signs of life we saw (2,479m). the jagged peaks of the visible on on the way up were some marmots peering out of the other side. It was an atmospheric walk through their burrows and flocks of sheep with jingling bells Below: Declan patches of forest, bilberries and wildflower meadows, around their necks. Apparently, the views from here crossing with low cloud swirling up the valley and only the are spectacular but, with driving snow and rain, they Brévent occasional rain shower. didn’t make an appearance. Mountain. We stopped for a break at Rifugio Bonatti, named We stopped briefly at the top before continuing after the famous Italian mountaineer , the long descent into Italy and our next stop at the whose legendary climbs are recalled in his many Rifugio Elisabetta, which is owned and operated by excellent books. As the refuge was full, we had booked the Milan section of the Italian Alpine Club. When the into Hotel Lavachey, an hour downhill. This rustic sun appeared that evening, there were spectacular mountain inn is operated by relatives of the ▲ views down the valley of and Glacier family. Numerous black-and-white photos adorn d’Estellette, situated beside the rifugio. All through the night the wind was whistling around Rifugio Elisabetta. We awoke to a white-out, the scenery unrecognisable from the previous evening, with neither the valley nor the glacier visible. That day’s section of the tour was to , a centre for mountaineering in Italy, where, after five long days of bad weather and 60km covered, we planned to take a day off to recharge. We delayed our start, hoping the weather would clear, but eventually set out into the teeth of the wind and snow. We had been warned of the risk of rockfall on the high route along the , so we went through the scenic valley of Val Veny instead. After another long day, which raised a few blisters, we were looking forward to the simple luxury of dry clothes. On our day off in Courmayeur we paid a visit to the excellent museum in the Society of Mountain Guides, which had displays from the pioneers of alpinism right up to the space-age high mountain refuges of the modern era.

The Walter Bonatti rifugio On the seventh day, feeling recharged, we were on the trail early for the climb to Col de Sapin (2,436m). At the top, we stopped for a quick snack and had a Photographs: Declan Alcock Collection Alcock Declan Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 41 MONT BLANC

the walls showing their ancestors on various Alpine Above: On the way We started early, as usual, with a nice walk down peaks and Alberto Grivel working at his forge as he up the Grand Col the valley, passing the beautiful Glacier du Trient as fashions some of the earliest , which bear du Ferret for the we crossed the meadows. We then climbed out of the famous family name. crossing from Italy the valley through the welcome shade of a pine into Switzerland. forest. When we left the forest, after about three The beautiful hours, the views back got better and better, as we We set off up Val Ferret the following morning in Below: View of climbed towards Col de Balme (2,195m) and the more settled weather, heading towards Grand Col Mont Blanc from route back to the French Alps. Ferret (2,537m), the crossing to Switzerland. It was a the Col du On our way down to Trelechamps, we decided to long but spectacular climb, passing the Pré de Bar Brévent. add a second climb by crossing Aiguillette des Glacier, with great views back into Italy. As often Posettes (2,201m) where, on the summit, a kestrel swooped in and hovered a few metres in front of us, happens on high mountain passes, the weather on eyeballing his prey far below. either side was completely different, with a large snowfield on the Swiss side. After negotiating this, we spent the afternoon on the downhill walk to . In order to have a rest day at the end, we completed two stages on the ninth day, going from La Fouly to Col de la Forclaz. This started out with a pleasant climb on a forest path to , a nice Swiss village with a lake at its centre, but it turned into a long testing day. The climb to Bovine Alp (1,987m) in the afternoon was done mostly in rain, ankle-deep in mud, in heavy, low-lying cloud with no views to reward our efforts. Once we were over the top and on the way down, it brightened up and we arrived at Col de la Forclaz, overlooking the town of Trient, in time to see the sun set over the Swiss Alps. The morning of the tenth day brought sunshine, blue skies and a hint of summer in the air, providing a reminder of why I love the mountains. One day you’re fighting through cold and snow, the next you are ankle-deep in mud and driving rain, and then there are days with blue skies and glorious sunshine, where sitting in the shade of a boulder when the sun is high and just taking it all in is one of life’s pleasures. Photographs: Declan Alcock Collection Alcock Declan Photographs: 42 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Above: Lac Blanc The mountains were saving the surface reflecting the snow-capped peaks in the French Alps, best till last surrounding it. The mountains were saving the best on the Tour du till last and rewarding us for the days of mud, rain As we started our eleventh day with a climb to Col Mont Blanc. and snow with glorious weather for the final few de Montets (1,461m), a chamois, obviously used to days. Below: seeing walkers, sat on a rocky outcrop enjoying the The final day was perhaps the toughest, starting at Completing the morning sun and observing us as we passed. It was 7.00am with a tough climb over rockfall and tour with the final going to be a sweltering day, as it was already hot, boulders, before taking an ever narrower and higher descent to Les and we were glad of the shade from the few trees path to Col du Brévent, with a reassuring rock wall Houches in the on this otherwise exposed climb. on one side and a half-mile drop on the other. From Chamonix valley, Once at the top of the pass, the route ran along here we climbed further along a rocky path, up some with Mont Blanc the side of the valley directly across from Mont fixed ladders at a steep section, and then through (4,810m) in the Blanc, with spectacular views every step of the snow to the summit of Brévent (2,525m), the final background. way. We diverted off the trail to climb to the climb of the trek. We took a break here to enjoy the beautiful lake of Lac Blanc (2,532m), with its famous view and, while it was very tempting to take the cable car down to Chamonix, we were determined to walk every step. The 1,500m descent from Brévent to Les Houches was a long, long afternoon through never-ending switchbacks, first on the mountainside, then through the forest. After eleven hours on the mountain, we were almost out of steam but, as we eventually broke out of the forest, we caught a glimpse of the church spire in Les Houches. This gave us our second wind to push on and, twelve days after we set out, we were back where it all began! ■

AFTER RAIN AND SNOW, WE HAD GLORIOUS WEATHER FOR THE FINAL, EXHAUSTING FEW DAYS.

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 43 MONT BLANC

BACKPACKING ROUND MONT BLANC

Michael Guilfoyle describes his experience of the Tour du Mont Blanc.

he morning of day five of the eleven-day Above: Below However, the walk, the location and the people had circular Tour du Mont Blanc in September Elisabetta already begun to cast their spell well before we’d was always going to be something of a Refugio in Italy. arrived in Courmayeur. As we traversed the 2,500m Col crux. We had hiked up and down for four de la Seigne, from France into Italy, on day three, the days from Les Houches, the starting point Below: Custom picture-postcard perfection of Italy’s Val Veny below us of the tour near Chamonix, and had post in Praz-de- had probably done the trick. That and a good meal and reachedT the beautiful Italian town of Courmayeur. Our Fort on the Swiss sleep in Courmayeur sealed our fate: we would backs and shoulders were still resisting the rough frontier, not far complete the remaining seven days of the tour, going intimacy of our heavy rucksacks, and our feet and boots from Chamonix on from Italy into Switzerland and back to France on were still not getting on together. (France) and easily the most beautiful long-distance trek on the In terms of the balance sheet of moments of quiet Aosta (Italy). continent. desperation versus those of ‘high five’ elation, we still In terms of footfall, the Tour du Mont Blanc comes weren’t quite sure where we stood. Courmayeur second only to the longer Camino de Santiago de presented an all-too-easy exit opportunity. We could Compostella. Hundreds, probably thousands, of walkers just hop on the bus back to Chamonix through the trek through its valleys and villages and over its high or, better to explain an early exit back cols each year. They start arriving in June, when the home, take a wonderful cable car sky-ride over the snows clear, and finish in late September, when the shoulder of Mont Blanc to Chamonix via the totally snows return. Like the Camino, it is a matter of strong improbable sky station. boots, two sticks and a broad-brimmed hat. Also, there is the often similar experience of multilingual, crowded ➤ Michael Guilfoyle is a founder member and chaotic eating and sleeping conditions along the of the Lung Gompas Hiking Club. He lives way. in Dublin and is married with two children, Motivation, however, may differ quite a bit: the both married. He has hiked extensively in pilgrim probably has more complex, often inner and the Alps, the Pyrenees, Scotland, Wales deeply personal reasons for their pilgrimage. For the and Iceland (where he attempted a north- south crossing of Vatnajokull ice-cap in Tour, though, the draw is more simple – it is the 1990). He has trekked in Kashmir, the prospect of eleven days’ or so walking and just being Canary Islands, , Morocco, Vancouver within the 360-degree beauty of an incomparable Island and . He has summited mountain wonderland. many Alpine 4,000m peaks, including Mt Blanc and Gran Paradiso; also Toubkal and On our tour in September, we opted to backpack. Ouanakrim (Atlas Mountains) and most Thus we were independent of the refuges and had the Pyrenean tops over 3,000m. great (but not always legal) freedom to stop, start and Photographs: Michael Guilfoyle Photographs: 44 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 IT IS EASILY THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LONG-DISTANCE TREK ON THE CONTINENT.

stay where and when we liked. As with the Camino, it is possible to do the Tour in style, with pre-booked hotel and refuge accommodation, as well as having your gear transported more or less from point to point. We were unreservedly happy that we backpacked, despite serious pre-trip apprehension. We came across people, often Irish, who had relied on refuge accommodation and who had booked, say, the first three refuges of the route. Many found, as they progressed, that all onward refuges were full. Attempts to buy tents were met with frustrating end-of-season, sold-out or prohibitive price responses. That is not to Above: Aongus Ó route. say that we were entirely indifferent to having to make hAonghusa and The route does get up close and personal with the and break camp twice in rain and to deal with a night- Michael Guilfoyle mountain, though. On occasion, it allowed us into places time rampage by an unidentified, food-robbing animal. overlooking les where we could witness the end-game in the long The feel of this walk and its gifts to the memory are Grandes 100,000-year war between ice and rock. Global warming special. The sight and sound of wild, glacial rivers Jorasses (picture seemed certain to us in these places; the last clinging, tumbling through deep, chaotic chasms, carrying with taken from near skeletal fingers of the glaciers were clearly seen there to them the smell of high-up ice on their chilled breath; Courmayeur, loosen their cold grip and release more and more pristine, the ‘stop and stare’ moments on high cols; the being Italy). smoothened rock surfaces to feel their first warmth from almost shocked by the stark, shattered beauty of the the sun. high Alps, their smooth summit snow-caps contrasting Below left: Sean Then, of course, there are the people. There is that with high blue skies and cracked, precarious pillars and McBride, Aongus special supportive camaraderie of like-minded people. towers were all deeply impressive. In contrast, the Ó hAonghusa The swapping and sharing of backgrounds, stories, craic, gentleness of chocolate box-cover valleys of and Michael experiences and perceptions all help to get one’s feet, meandering rivers, Alpine meadows and wild flowers, Guilfoyle at and the prettiest of wooden, flower-bedecked chalets, with sense of humour and dignity intact, over the high Fenetre cols. For us, their company definitely enriched and was also memorable. d’Arpette, enlivened that glass of wine or beer and the conversation Sometimes the walk is processional and Switzerland. conversational. At other times it is one of special after long days. Fly to Geneva and easily bus it to Les Houches. Get Kev moments on high, sunny crests or ridges, with only the Below right: Reynolds’ excellent guidebook and a couple of 1:25,000 freshest and coolest of playful breezes and the sound Sean McBride French IGN maps. The rest will be up to you, your legs and of cold meltwater cascades for company. descending from your inclination. The route is safe; at its worst it is no more technically Le Brevent, Les If you do it, there is absolutely no doubt that this challenging than our own . It is also easily Aiguilles Rouges, navigable, though maps and a guidebook are strongly iFrance, with loveliest of walks through the heart of Europe will not advised. There is plenty of helpful company along the Mont Blanc only captivate you during the walk but will continue to way and well-marked opportunities for easier, lower- towering in the reward you well after. The images and stories and the level options or variants. Most importantly, frequent, background. feelings of well-being will be a constant and self- sunny coffee-stops, picnics and even stops for congratulatory reminder of how yours was indeed an sustaining soup, omelettes and chips are possible en excellent choice of holiday experience Photographs: Michael Guilfoyle Collection Michael Guilfoyle Photographs: ■

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 45 IINFANT CARE

CLIMBING WITH BABY

Can you continue climbing when you have an infant in the family? John McCabe, who is a paediatrician by profession and has recently become a father, discusses his concerns.

hen climbing is a massive part of Above: John and life for you and your partner, how Katherine do you continue with your abseiling. passion after having a baby? Right: This was a significant concern Katherine, six for my wife Katherine and me. months WeW didn’t want to lose the life we had, but we were pregnant, keen to have a child too. carries I met Katherine while climbing at our local wall. bouldering pads up Slieve After a little persuasion, she agreed to go on a date. Binnian in the What followed was a fantastic few years of dating, Mournes. trad climbing, camping and spontaneous adventures around the globe, from County Clare to New Zealand. Eventually, I plucked up the courage to ask her to marry me. Early in 2017, Katherine had a positive pregnancy

➤ John McCabe is a consultant paediatrician. He is a member of Mountaineering Ireland and has been climbing for twenty years, initially with a passion for trad climbing. This has evolved into an in interest in sport climbing trips and a love of bouldering. He has enjoyed (or endured!) several Scottish winter adventures. He is the social secretary for the newly established Belfast Climbing Club. All photographs by John McCabe with the exception of the abseiling photo above, by Carl Whinnery Carl by above, the abseiling photo of the exception John McCabe with by All photographs 46 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 CLIMBING HAD GIVEN US SO MUCH THAT WE WERE DETERMINED TO CONTINUE, BUT WITH AIDAN INVOLVED. test. We were ecstatic. We had been trying for a baby and so, although not a surprise, the emotions were immense. Are we ready for this? Will I be a good dad? How do you be a good dad? From the time of the good news, for the safety of the baby, Katherine stopped climbing. She continued with regular kettlebell and yoga sessions. Most health professionals advise against rock climbing during pregnancy, although I feel this is because of a lack of insight into the true risks involved. Katherine has had very few falls in the past while climbing, so there was a very low risk of bodily impact affecting the baby. Nevertheless, her stopping climbing was a personal choice that was correct for us but might not be right for everyone. Moreover, remaining active and fit during pregnancy is strongly encouraged and will make adapting to your changing body easier. There is evidence that active women are less likely to experience problems during pregnancy and labour. However, Katherine encouraged me to continue climbing, even carrying bouldering pads up Slieve Binnian when she was six months pregnant, and into the Fair Head boulder field when she was eight months pregnant, much to the consternation of her obstetrician!

Above: The ‘Beast After the nine months of her pregnancy and from the East’ thirty-five hours of labour, Katherine delivered a cold snap strikes healthy baby boy, Aidan. After the delivery, Katherine in Margalef in Spain in February remained in hospital for two days and I got my last 2018: Aidan eight hours of uninterrupted sleep! Then our lives requires extra truly changed. No one can prepare you for it. We were layers to keep a family, in equal measures unbelievably happy and him warm and terrified. toasty. Climbing had given us so much that we were Left: Katherine determined to continue – but with Aidan involved. So, and John take at six days old, Aidan came with us when we went, as Aidan to a family, to BoulderWorld Belfast. We took it in turns BoulderWorld in to watch him sleep, which is what babies mostly do Belfast at six for their first few days. Katherine was content to do days old. low-level traverses. The return to climbing will differ for every woman, depending on whether there were any problems with the pregnancy, the method of delivery and any associated complications. If in doubt, you should discuss this with your obstetrician and heed your own body. We were epically proud of ourselves, not least for simply getting out of the house! I daydreamed of engaging in further climbing adventures as a family. However, when I thought about it, I realised it would be challenging. I had three main concerns. ▲ Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 47 LAYERING IS IMPORTANT FOR EVERYONE IN THE OUTDOORS, BUT IS VASTLY MORE IMPORTANT FOR BABIES.

converse is true, too; leaving them in a stroller without a cloth over it for shade may result in their temperature increasing rapidly. Infants have very limited or no language ability. Information must be gleaned from non-verbal cues (facial expressions and postures). You must use these cues to know when to feed them, change them or simply entertain them. Awareness of their routine may enable a feed before starting a climb. Katherine breastfed Aidan and so we were lucky, as initially no bottles were needed. Infants are constantly evolving, so what works one month may not work the next. As Aidan got older, we started to bring ‘nibbles’ and a warm bag with a bottle of formula. Next: changing your baby. I have not discovered a secret here; just be as quick as possible, shade them from the wind or sun and bring disposable bags to store the used nappy in. Finally, good communication with the lead climber is mandatory, as is their ability to make themselves safe quickly, if your baby needs attention from the belayer. Always be prepared to sing a song, play peek-a-boo or have a toy to hand; this leads on to my second concern. Other people’s perceptions Healthy babies are extremely resilient. They yearn for entertainment, for their view of the world to be expanded. They love being outside, to look at trees, listen to the birds and watch the clouds. Nevertheless, we worried about distracting other climbers. It is also amazing in today’s social media- driven world how many people will give their opinions on the appropriateness of climbing with a baby. Can we keep our baby safe? Above: The family at Altnadue Thankfully, our experiences have been positive. We I am a consultant paediatrician with extensive Quarry: first went to our local bouldering gym, BoulderWorld experience in acute paediatrics, and an instructor on Katherine, Aidan Newborn Life Support and Advanced Paediatric Life and John with Support courses. I also have significant outdoor family dog Gabe. training. I felt that Aidan would be safe in the hills Right: John with us. However, I should use this opportunity to climbing in state that, despite my knowledge and experience, Altnadue Quarry. nothing prepares you for your own baby. I also don’t want to excessively encourage unprepared families to go into the mountains. Infants are a diverse group, varying in weight, size and intellectual and emotional responses, much like climbers. However, children are not simply ‘small adults.’ Their anatomy and physiology differs dramatically and changes significantly. The most important factor when taking your baby to a crag is keeping it warm. Babies have a high body surface-area to weight ratio and are consequently more prone to lose heat and to hypothermia than adults. Outdoor enthusiasts will be aware of the importance of layering; this is vastly more important for your baby. They are not as active as you are, so remember to monitor their temperature. The Photographs: John McCabe Collection Photographs: 48 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Belfast Climbing Centre. The staff there were fantastic and supportive. Trips to Hotrock Climbing Wall and Awesome Walls rapidly followed. We began to feel confident and agreed to attempt a foreign trip. Aidan got his first passport; sitting for the photographer was an adventure in itself! Then we had to consider our destination. Straight away, we ruled out a trip involving multi-pitch climbing. Bouldering or sport climbing were the obvious options. However, it was late winter or early spring and we wanted a short flight, so we found ourselves in glorious sunshine at a crag in Margalef, in Spain. We hired a guide, for their local knowledge and to belay, as we took turns entertaining our son. We were worried that we would annoy fellow climbers with a screaming baby, but our fears were misplaced. There were several other families at the crag; we no longer felt like the first people in the world to try climbing with a baby; the relief was awesome. If you go abroad, ideally, your destination should have enough shade to keep your baby out of the sun at all times. Aidan, with his Irish complexion, was constantly lathered in infant sunscreen irrespective of the shade, with a sun hat also and a down jacket, put on and taken off repeatedly. A travel cot is also a very useful item. On returning home, we endeavoured to continue climbing. BoulderWorld continued to be a fantastic destination. However, we wanted to get outdoors again as a couple. The boulder field at Fair Head was an unattractive option with a baby learning to roll over. He was also getting too heavy to carry up to the Above: Aidan’s Binnian slabs with nappies and bottles, never mind first climb, Acknowledgments our own gear. Then, we heard about the work Sport NI assisted by John, A special thank you to: at Altnadue Obstetric team in Antrim Area Hospital and Tollymore National Outdoor Centre were doing at Quarry. • Altnadue Quarry. With a family-friendly ethos and a • Our families – for not thinking we’re crazy short walk-in, it was perfect! We could have our son Below: Katherine • BoulderWorld Belfast sleeping in his stroller beside us while we climbed, nip tackles Midnight • Richard Franklyn Rob and Veronica Hunter back to the car to change his nappy and feed him at Lightning on the • Columbia Boulder Casa Catalunya and Ian ‘Mac’ Macdonald the picnic tables. The routes are fantastic though • in Yosemite Sport NI they would not be pushing my limit, and this leads to • National Park. Tollymore National Outdoor Centre. my third issue. • Changing goals I stopped chasing self-made goals. This was liberating. Somewhere along my years of climbing, it had become about the grades. Aidan arrived and then we were simply happy to get our climbing shoes on, be with friends and get a climb in between nappy changes and feeds. Pulling my thoughts together at the end, we are extremely lucky. We have found what makes us happy and we are now pursuing it as a family. We simply hope to create safe and fun experiences. I know there will be many other climbing parents reading this, many with far more experience than us. If you have any useful tips, please share them! For those of you who do not have children, I hope we have reduced some of the mystery and apprehension about climbing as new parents. Our views may change again, if we decide to try for number two!

Photographs: John McCabe Collection Photographs: ■ Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 49 IRAN

IRAN’S HIGHEST PEAK Padraig Hogan completes a tough ascent, and even tougher descent, of Mt Damavand in Iran.

first heard about Iran’s Mount Damavand from Above: Mt people were extraordinarily friendly. That warm a neighbour, who had climbed it in 2014 and Damavand feeling was the foundation for one of the most rated it highly. With an altitude of 5,610m, it is (5,610) in Iran. memorable trips I have undertaken. the highest mountain in Iran, and it is the We spent the first night and half of the following highest volcano in Asia. Iran also sounded like a Below: Donkey day in Tehran, looking at some of the main sights unique country to explore. porters, the real and gathering food supplies for our trip. Tehran has IHaving lived in Jordan for two years, my only heroes of lots to offer, but I have never been keen on capital chance to get into the hills had been during the Damavand. cities. I was enthusiastic to get out and explore the summers at home in Connemara, so I was itching for country. a challenge. The school I teach at in Jordan has a focus on community service, and so, along with a fellow teacher, Mike Nolan, I decided to raise some money for Syrian refugees while doing something that would be a mountaineering experience. Arriving in Tehran in September 2015 was not the culture shock that I expected. The absence of other tourists was noticeable from the outset, but the

➤ Padraig Hogan is originally from Loch Na Fooey in the west of Ireland and has been teaching internationally for the past seven years. He is currently head of sixth form and teaches geography at an international school in Amman, Jordan. He has previously worked as an outdoor educator in Kenya, Spain and New Zealand. Photographs: Padraig Hogan Padraig Photographs: 50 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 I RELISHED THE FACT I WAS Above: Padraig from eastern Europe and a lovely Japanese couple Hogan, Farhad who had taken a year off to travel around the world ON THE SLOPES OF MOUNT Khalafi and Mike and were bagging as many big peaks as they could Nolan at Base fit in on their travels. We invited them to join us the DAMAVAND, HIGHEST PEAK Camp, with Mt next morning, as they had no guide and were unsure IN THE MIDDLE EAST. Damavand in of the route. the background. After a restless sleep disturbed by climbers getting The mosque The plan was to spend the first four days climbing up to be sick due to the altitude, loud snoring and must be one of Mt Damavand and then to spend another four the cold, I was reminded why I normally like to stay in the highest in exploring Shiraz, Isfahan and Persepolis. a tent, being self-sufficient, rather than in a the world! Mount Damavand can be tackled from a number mountain hut. After a slightly late start at 5.00am, we slowly of directions, but the popular and most accessible Below: A steep made our way up the mountain. The sunrise was route is from the south, starting at Camp Polour snow and ice beautiful and it reflected off the snow and ice. I took (2,270m). This is more of a hostel than a camp and ramp on Mt a moment to take it all in and to relish the fact that I has good facilities, including wifi. Traditionally, Damavand. was on the slopes of the highest peak in the Middle climbers would have started their walk in from here, East. As the morning wore on, it became evident that and many still do, although driving up the modern Mike was struggling with altitude sickness. He was

‘4x4’ track to Base Camp (3,040m) is now the norm. ▲ suffering with headaches and nausea. That was what we chose to do. Our first full day of hiking involved walking from Base Camp to Camp 3 Bargah (4,220m), a four-hour walk that is best taken at a nice easy pace to help the acclimatisation. Upon arrival at Bargah, we ate, slept for a few hours and then continued up to 4,500m to further aid with our acclimatisation. We then returned to the hut at Bargah and cooked a big meal. Our intention was to get an early night and then start for the summit at 4.00am the next morning. Bargah is a busy hut and best avoided at weekends, when many locals are on the mountain. We met a mixed group of people in the hut. There was a group of ten climbers from a Russian mountaineering club, who were spending six days there. They wanted to let their bodies gradually get used to the altitude to give themselves the best shot at summiting. There were also a couple of groups Photographs: Padraig Hogan Padraig Photographs: Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 51 IRAN OUR NIGHT’S SLEEP WAS BROKEN BY HALLUCINATIONS AND CRAZY DREAMS.

I suggested that we move from the rocky ridge onto the snow and ice field, so that he would be able to glissade down, using his walking poles as brakes. Farhad and I argued over the merit of this approach but – with no other better option – Mike started to descend the mountain by sliding on his backside. Altitude sickness I continued walking down the side of the snowfield with Farhad and we made slow progress down the mountain. As I descended, my dizziness receded a little but I still felt quite out of it and found it difficult to concentrate on where to put my feet. This was the first time that I had felt altitude sickness to such an extent that it affected my judgment, and there were some moments when I would have been happy just to sit down and not bother moving again. Five hours later we reached Camp 3. It was well after dark and Mike was in a pretty bad way, with ripped waterproofs, broken walking poles and a sore backside being the least of his worries. We got some soup that was on the go and we all collapsed into our sleeping bags. The night’s sleep that followed was the worst I have ever had. It was broken up by hallucinations, crazy dreams and very little sleep. The following morning, we slowly descended back to Camp 2 and took a jeep down to Camp Polour. After a brief discussion, we decided to head straight back to Tehran and have a rest day before boarding the flight to Shiraz in the south of the country. Mount Damavand is a spectacularly beautiful mountain and a moderate climb. My only advice The pace was very slow and our guide Farhad was Above: Padraig would be to take at least one extra day and Hogan on the worried that we would miss our 1.00-2.00pm acclimatise sufficiently before the summit day. summit window, after which we would have to turn summit of Mt Damavand. around to make it back to Camp 3 before nightfall. Exploring Iran At 12.30pm, Farhad encouraged me to continue on Below: View of Iran is an amazing country. Other highlights of my my own as otherwise a successful summit attempt the summit with time there included visiting the Grand Bazaar in sulphurous would not be possible. Tehran, which is 28 kilometres square in size, and Although I felt guilty for leaving my climbing fumes escaping from vent. Isfahan, which feels very European and even has a partner, it was obvious he was not going to make it. However, he was in safe hands with Farhad. Push for the summit The final 300 metres of the climb were the most difficult, as there was a very steep slope covered with deep snow. Compounding the altitude, there was a vent at the top of the mountain, releasing sulphurous fumes. Both the smell and the irritation to the nose and lungs made for a unique summit experience. After a quick circumnavigation of the summit and a few obligatory photos, I started straight back down the south side of the summit. I was now feeling quite dizzy and unwell myself. I realised that there was still a lot of walking to do before I would get to Camp 3. When I reached Farhad and Mike, it was apparent that the latter had no energy left and that we had a difficult descent ahead of us. Mike was unable to walk very far without having to sit down, and daylight was running out. Photographs: Padraig Hogan Padraig Photographs: 52 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Top: Panoramic free bike system, which we took view from slopes advantage of to explore the city. of Mt We spent two memorable days Damavand. cycling around, visiting beautiful Above left: mosques and absorbing the Mosque in friendly Iranian atmosphere. I Shiraz. would highly recommend visiting Iran, and soon, before it opens up Above right: too much to the west and loses Mosque in Isfahan main some of its unique charm ■ square.

Practical information Mount Damavand NEPAL IRELAND DAY 2018 • Elevation: 5,610 metres Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin • Time needed for climb: 3-7 days Sunday, September 9th, 2018, 12.00pm to 5.00pm Guide The Embassy of Nepal in , Nepal Tourism Board, Nepal Ireland Society • Local guide Farhad Kalafi and NRNA Ireland are jointly organising this year’s Nepal-Ireland Day on (fdkhalafi@gmail.com) September 9th. Promoting Nepal Tourism Board’s campaign, ‘Experience Website Nepal – Cuisine and Culture,’ and enhancing relations between Nepal and • Website: www.damawand.de Ireland, the event will take place at Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park, Dublin. Visa Nepal-Ireland Day will include a cultural programme, with performances • Available on arrival for Irish citizens. from both Nepalese and Irish artists, an British passport holders need a government- exhibition of photographs taken in Nepal by appointed guide with them at all times Irish tourists, stall promoting Nepalese Budget handicrafts, travel agencies and airlines, and • Accommodation: €15 per night a mountaineering talks programme. • Guide: €45 per day • Internal flight: €60 The Nepal-Ireland Society has been • Average meal: €5 organising Nepal-Ireland Day since 2013 with • Visa: €50 support from the Office of Public Works. Photographs: Padraig Hogan Padraig Photographs: Summer 2018Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 53 Access & Conservation

Written by Helen Lawless, Hillwalking, Access Walking in the Sperrins & Conservation Recent Sperrins initiative may provide a model for other areas. Officer

During spring 2018 Séan’s passion and love of the Mountaineering Ireland, in Sperrins was echoed by the cooperation with the Ulster speakers from other clubs. Federation of Rambling Clubs Michael Gilmour (Mid Ulster and Sport NI, facilitated a series Walking Club) used Davagh of meetings with Forest as an example to representatives from walking illustrate the value of good clubs that are regularly active in quality low-level walks. the Sperrins. The purpose of the Ita McCrory (Foyle Hill engagement was to provide Walking Club) spoke about support to walking intermediate-level developed representatives on working walks in the Sperrins, such as groups formed following the the Loop and Sperrins Future Search event, Hudy’s Way, emphasising that held in September 2017 (see more work needs to be done IML 124, p55). on maintaining these before The ‘Walking in the Sperrins’ developing additional routes. discussions were both The last club representative, Anne Reid (Parks & Countryside Development Officer with Mid Ulster enjoyable and fruitful, and it Brendan Adams (Sperrins District Council), left, pictured with Michael and Lorraine Gilmour (Mid was soon agreed that there Hillwalking Club), focused on Ulster Walking Club) during a site visit to Davagh Forest, in the Sperrin Mountains where they identified a number of walks within the forest would be value in engaging higher-level hillwalks. Like the which could be waymarked and promoted with little cost. This directly with the Countryside previous speakers, Brendan meeting arose from the Walking in the Sperrins event. Officers in the four councils reiterated the tranquil, unique that cover the Sperrins: and stress-busting attributes of the speakers’ passion for the Officer. Despite the fact that it th Causeway Coast and Glens; the Sperrins. He also set out area and its landscape. He also celebrates its 50 anniversary Derry City and Strabane; some issues, including commented on the sense of this year, at the time of writing Fermanagh and Omagh; and questions over permission, optimism about the future. the Sperrins Area of Mid Ulster. A programme was liability, access points and Outstanding Natural Beauty A model of cooperation remains the only one of planned, presentations fencing. All four councils, Northern prepared and an afternoon Mike McClure (Sport NI) and Northern Ireland’s designated Ireland Environment Agency, event was successfully Richard Gillen (Causeway Coast AONBs which does not have a the National Outdoor delivered on Wednesday, May & Glens Borough Council) made management structure, any Recreation Forum, Outdoor 16th, at An Carn, near Maghera. the final presentations, after staff or a management plan. Recreation NI and Sport NI were which there was a very useful Speaking after the event, represented at the Walking in Presentations by group discussion. Séan Convery said: “What we the Sperrins event. This initiative hillwalkers Mountaineering Ireland Board got today was probably a first may provide a model for other Séan Convery (Colmcille member Geoff Thomas for hillwalkers in the Sperrins Climbers) opened proceedings, formally closed the event by areas, in terms of and a first in terms of providing insights both as a thanking all those involved and Mountaineering Ireland communicating our passion hillwalker and a landowner. saying how great it was to hear facilitating local hillwalking and desire for this landscape to clubs to work together, local council staff and articulate their views and Government bodies. The engage with councils and other second element is to bring this relevant bodies. There has passion and desire into an already been follow-up active management plan that engagement between local sees the Sperrins AONB being walking clubs and Countryside given the resources that this Officers. unique area demands.” Positive as this is, the Mountaineering Ireland prospect of greater progress extends its thanks to all the hinges on the four local councils speakers at the Walking in the agreeing on the formation of a Sperrins event, to all those who management body for the attended, to Sport NI for Sperrins Area of Outstanding covering refreshments, and to Natural Beauty (AONB) and Avril McAllister (Foyle Hill committing funding for the Walking Club) who provided Goles valley in the Sperrins. appointment of an AONB notes from the day Photograph: Lorraine Gilmour (top), Brendan Adams (bottom) Adams Brendan (top), Gilmour Lorraine Photograph: ■

54 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Responsible Enjoyment of Special Places with Empathy, Care and Trust

Parked cars blocking private entrance Smart parking near Lough Dan in County Wicklow Your club arrives at your designated start point to find the car park already full; what to do? Many places where we walk and climb have limited parking space. With increasing numbers enjoying the outdoors, congestion has become an issue in popular locations including Connemara, the Burren, the Mournes and the Wicklow Mountains. It is tempting to park on a verge, in front of a forestry barrier, or at the side of a gateway, but doing so could block access for larger vehicles such as an ambulance or a tractor with a trailer. Attendees at a Mountaineering Ireland meeting in Galway in early May heard how badly-parked cars recently prevented a lorry with a fodder delivery getting into a farm in the Maumturks. Situations like that could easily result in landowners closing off access. Use public transport where it’s available. Rather than saying ‘the Council should provide more parking • Avoid parking in front of field gates; remember that many space,’ let’s look at how we can take some responsibility ourselves. • farmers move livestock at the weekend. The Galway discussion generated lots of ideas for how groups of all Park a little further back from the hill or crag and walk in. sizes can help ease the pressure for parking: • Ask permission to park outside a house, farm or other premises. Park carefully - avoid wasting space between vehicles when • Steer clear of honeypots; make a point of exploring quieter areas. • parking in an unmarked car park. • Share your walks calendar with other clubs in the area to avoid Commit to car-pooling – it saves money and reduces emissions • two big groups being in the same area on the same day. • too. Where there’s an honesty box in a car park, make sure to Apps like What’s App are useful for arranging lift shares. • contribute. • Be flexible about changing your route and starting elsewhere. If you have other ideas in relation to parking and responsible • Park at a suitably large area close to the hills and hire a local bus access to the areas where we walk and climb, please email • or car-pool. [email protected] ■ Mountain environment walk in the Galtees Matt Joy led an inspiring environmental walk across the Galtees as part of the Mountaineering Ireland Spring Gathering last March. Matt, who is well-known as a member of the South Eastern Mountain Rescue Association and the Mid Tipp Hillwalkers, holds a degree in environmental and natural resource management. The walk focused on helping hillwalkers to see how they can enjoy the mountains with care. The group traversed the Galtees from the Black Road car park, up and over Galtybeg and down to Clydagh Bridge. In Matt Joy below Galtymore, Co Tipperary, with participants in the Spring Gathering Environment Walk. addition to enjoying an excellent mountain day, change-maker Katie Mahon environmental days are of a position to share the participants came away with who shared the quote of the particular value to Club knowledge they acquire with lots of ideas, advice and day, from Brazilian writer Paul Environmental Officers and others are welcome to information to share with Coelho: “The world is changed Mountaineering Ireland Training participate. For details of others. by your example, not by your Providers. However, subject to upcoming events, see Thanks to Matt and all those opinion.” availability of space, all www.mountaineering.ie or email

Photographs: Helen Lawless Photographs: who participated, including Mountaineering Ireland’s interested members who are in [email protected] ■ Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 55 Training

Written by Jane Carney, Recent and upcoming events Training Officer Brief reports on training events of note run by the Training Office Club Training Officers’ Weekend Workshop TO WHOM IT MAY CONCERN: ■ The next Club Training Officers’ Weekend Workshop will be held on November 16-18th, 2018, in Galway. Please contact the Training Officer, Jane Carney, at th Training Office for more details, to register or to book ■ Women With Altitude “Mentoring Mountaineers: Realise Your Potential”

The annual Women with Altitude initiative this year took place in Glendalough, Co Wicklow, in May. The event opened with an orienteering session led by Maike Jurgens. This was followed by presentations from two speakers, Ann Fitzpatrick of Wicklow Mountains National Park and Cindy Doyle of adventure.ie, both of whom are also members of Glen of Imaal Mountain Rescue Team. The weather was the star of the weekend, with uninterrupted sunshine from start to finish. This enabled all participants to bask in warm sunlight and climb on dry granite. Julie Reeves entertained all as our guest keynote speaker, describing her progression from beginner to trainer over the last five years in the mountains. This year’s event included some new offerings such as trail running, forest bathing, bivouacking and a Mountain Meitheal workshop. The Great Outdoors shop, represented by Carrol Masterson and Aoife Leahy, provided over €500 worth of prizes, promoted the event and set up an extensive pop-up shop for the event. Cindy Doyle of adventure.ie also set up a pop-up shop and extended their in-shop offer of ‘try before you buy’ trail running shoes. Climbing on the Women With Altitude weekend in Glendalough. Funding for the initiative comes from the Sports Council through Women in Sport, targeting the increased participation currently climbing at an extreme standard. They both took full of women in sport. advantage of the Glendalough weekend to get out on the skills Women with Altitude offers bursary places, which this year workshops in Competent Second, Rock Climbing and Bouldering, went to Lia Peare and Christina McInerney, both of whom are while meeting many female role models ■

attend, you can access the wonderful for the full range of 2018 Alpine Meet regular suite of alpine skills mountaineering activities, courses and hut-to-hut trips, with a huge offering of July 7-21st, Val Di Mello, Italy or just register and come walking, mountaineering and along to meet other like- climbing in the valley and up This year, Mountaineering has in abundance. minded practitioners of our at altitude. Ireland’s annual Alpine Meet As always, we expect a core sport. The website has full We welcome younger will be returning to Italy, not of independent walkers, details. members and their families, only for the fine coffee and climbers and mountaineers of Val di Mello is a mecca for as the area is ideal for cuisine but also to access the all ages and aspirations to boulderers and is famous for engaging the next generation superb walking, climbing and attend. As Mountaineering the annual bouldering event, of walkers, mountaineers and mountaineering adventures it Ireland members, if you ‘Mello Bloc.’ Val di Mello is also climbers ■ Photograph: Cath Maguire Cath Photograph: 56 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Key dates 2018 • 22nd June MTBI Training Meeting 22-24th June MTUK Meeting, Tollymore • Mountain Centre 6-8th July Outdoor Learning Symposium, • Tollymore Field Study Centre • 7-21st July Alpine Meet, Val Di Mello, Italy • 31st August MTBI Training Meeting?? • 14th September MTBI Training Meeting?? 15th & 16th Sept Skills Workshop, Navigation, • Co Kerry Bouldering on the Women With Altitude weekend in Glendalough. 15th & 16th Sept Skills Workshop, Scrambling, • Co Kerry 15th & 16th Sept Skills Workshop Rock Climbing, News for providers • Co Kerry ■ Providers are reminded to continue to submit evidence of assessment 17th September Mountaineering Instructors forms for all pass candidates of the ML, SPA/RCI, MPA, LLA and Level 1 • Award (MIA) Workshop Climbing Coach courses. 21-22nd Sept Mountain Skills Providers ■ Data Protection Slides. Providers are reminded to use these slides when • Workshop, Wicklow delivering any ML, SPA/RCI, MPA, LLA & L1 CC courses. • 5-7th October MTUK Meeting, Plas Y Brenin ■ Dates for CPD opportunities are on the 2018 calendar (see alongside). 12-14th October Autumn Gathering, Clonbur, ■ Providers are reminded to save venues when completing the course • Co Galway report and to add candidates before the course. This will flag any issues pre- 2-5th November Mountain Leader Assessment course, such as candidates with lapsed membership, those not registered • 16-18th Nov Club Training Officers’ and those using the wrong email address or membership number ■ • Workshop, Galway • 24-25th Nov Train the Trainers, Wicklow 28th Nov Winter Meet Lecture, News for members • Basecamp, Dublin, 7pm ■ The Digital Logbook is available to all members to record their activity in • 3rd December MTBI Training Meeting the mountains, valleys and crags. Images and files can be uploaded, thus 6th December Lynam Lecture, Trinity College, enhancing your log entries. It also serves as a guidebook, with drop-down • Dublin boxes offering the climbs or mountains in any given area. Please see the 7th December Senior Providers Workshop website for guidance. • Wicklow ■ Skills Workshops are offered to our members over two weekends 30th January MTBI Training Meeting annually. These workshops are ideal for enhancing your skills and • 2-3rd February Club Training Officers’ knowledge, which can be brought back to share with your club or applied to • Workshop your personal mountaineering adventures. • 17-23rd Feb Winter Meet, Onich, Scotland ■ We are receiving great feedback on the revised Climbing Awards. March Spring Gathering (TBC) • th Trainers are reporting that the courses are benefiting from the new • 8-11 March Mountain Leader Assessment. modules and the longer course time, which allows participants to spend (Venue TBC) time climbing in the evenings and to visit a climbing wall during the course. The recent opening of Altnadue Quarry will facilitate the additional sport Please book early! Please see the website, climbing requirements (see also, page 20). www.mountaineering.ie, for further details or contact the Training Officer, Jane Carney, on +353 1 625 1112. ■ Please see the National Guidelines for Climbing and Walking Leaders and the Good Practice Guidelines for Hillwalkers, available on our website: go to Training pages, and Training Downloads ■ include indoor and outdoor sport climbing leads (the fully bolted outdoor sport climbing venue Altnadue Changes to rock climbing Quarry is now open); • the duration for the training course has been modules on training courses increased from two to three days (from 20 to 24 hours), to include one full day at a climbing wall; Outdoor courses available in Ireland that offer Quality & Qualification the introduction of two new and additional modules: Ireland (QQI) awards and modules need to be aware of the upcoming • (1) Teaching Skills and (2) Managing an Assistant. changes to the Single-Pitch Award QQI Level 5 and Level 6 modules. Please contact the Training Office to discuss the Mountaineering Ireland has four modules within the QQI listings: the transitional arrangements for candidates and course Level 5 Mountain Skills; the Level 4 Rock Skills; the Level 5 Single-Pitch requirements for trainers and those managing outdoor Award Training; and the Level 6 Single-Pitch Award Assessment. course provision ■ The changes to the climbing awards need to be adopted by those offering the Level 5 and 6 Single-Pitch Award. The key changes are: the experience requirements pre-training and the assessment to Photograph: Colette Mahon Colette Photograph: • Stay safe out there! Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 57 TRAINING Hen Mountain in the Mournes: scene of RCI training from the Tollymore Mountain Centre

THE NEW INSTRUCTOR AWARD

Liam McCarthy describes the recently launched Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) award, replacing the SPA.

The new Rock Climbing Instructor syllabus better what the award involves. ‘Instructor’ Trevor drove us to Hen Mountain in the arrived in April 2018 and has replaced the emphasises the teaching and managing of Mournes and we hiked up to the impressive old Single Pitch Award (SPA). The new others to develop their skills. It is also granite tors at the top. The climbing there award has been designed by Mountain possibly a gentle reminder of the need to was mostly easy, but the protection was Training, which is the over-arching body for set a good example at a crag or climbing sparse enough. As the exercise was about climbing courses and qualifications in wall! anchors, placements and belays, we each Ireland and the UK. Secondly, the training is now carried out led easy VDs with Trevor rating the I registered for the Rock Climbing over three days rather than two. The scope protection placed and the quality and Instructor (RCI) training in Tollymore, one of of the award may also be broader, to reflect efficiency of the anchors/belays the three national mountain training award the reality that outdoor sport climbing, constructed. centres in the UK and Ireland. It is situated indoor climbing and bouldering have all Later, back at the centre, we practiced just outside Newcastle, Co Down, risen hugely in popularity in recent years. some strategies for helping a stuck climber conveniently less than an hour from Belfast Climbing has now become a spectrum of from the top of the outdoor wall (after and two hours from Dublin by car. activities carried out at a range of encouragement had failed, of course!). The The training is broadly similar to the locations. centre has a very nice rigging area above training for the SPA. It is still all about Sport climbing experience is now also a the outdoor wall, which allows realistic achieving a high supervisory standard for prerequisite for the award. As regards simulations in which participants can safe and enjoyable single-pitch climbing. problem-solving, the focus is more on alternate the roles of stuck climber and Supervising climbing requires a high level prevention rather than cure. Proper resourceful belayer. of understanding, as it is a significant planning, appropriate choice of venue or responsibility. It is still aimed at route and good communication are the Day 2: Saturday. Out to the mountains experienced rock climbers who will be keys to avoiding problems. again. We set up bottom ropes and comfortable leading outdoor ‘trad’ climbs The course I attended had a 1:3 reviewed the importance of protecting at Severe or above. The overall structure instructor to participants ratio and I had oneself and others at the top of crags remains unchanged – namely, Registration, two fellow students, Tim Rogers and Jared during set-up. Constructing bomb-proof Training, Consolidation Purvis – both good climbers. Tim had just anchors is obviously a key skill and we and Assessment. completed his Mountain Leader Award and practiced equalising many anchors using a was impressively working towards adding range of equipment at the top of a crag. We How it differs from the SPA the RCI to his list of qualifications. Our practiced setting up releasable abseils for So, what has changed? Well, firstly the name course director was Trevor Fisher, himself novice groups. Now we needed to start Rock Climbing Instructor communicates an E-grade climber, MIA-holder and thinking! talented sailor. Although most climbers will regularly set up fixed or retrievable abseils, few will have ➤ Liam McCarthy works Day 1: Friday. We outlined our climbing rigged backed-up, releasable ones. A strong in Trinity College Dublin and is a member of experience and reviewed access and wind – fairly typical for that area of the Mountaineering Ireland, conservation issues. The Tollymore centre is Mournes – was blowing and that made this the Wayfarers and the fortunate to have an outdoor granite block mountain-top session even more realistic. Irish Mountaineering Club. wall where we reviewed , and cam Late in the day, we travelled to He enjoys challenge placements, scoring our own efforts for Bloodybridge to look at an extensive hiking, single- and multi- pitch trad climbing, sport quality. We then set up and attached to bouldering area along the coast. We climbing, and general and some anchors for belay. reviewed effective and positioning Alpine mountaineering. Satisfied that we could rig proficiently, of crash pads, rock quality and stability, Photographs: Liam McCarthy Collection Liam McCarthy Photographs: 58 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 and the protectability of the various routes. model. Finally, we all sat down with the Some hazardous landings certainly raised course director and reviewed the three a few issues in my mind. My view – for what days’ training. it’s worth – is that by the same rationale that the RCI scheme is limited to the How I rate the RCI training supervision of groups on non-serious Overall, I was very impressed with rock-climbing routes, very high bouldering Tollymore as a training centre. The routes should be excluded. This would combination of indoor and outdoor walls, provide clarity and would be in instructors’ together with the proximity of the real interests overall. crags of the Mourne Mountains, is perfect In the late evening we returned to the for a training weekend. The centre was also centre to practice rigging various direct in the final stages of bolting a local quarry, belay systems. For general interest we also Altnadue, which will provide training looked at some interesting gear videos, opportunities for sport climbing (for more with some surprising data on the breaking on this, see news item on page 20). strength of Dyneema slings with knots! In summary, I think the revised award has achieved its aims. The training isn’t too Day 3: Sunday. It was wet all day so indoor prescriptive about how to do things. Most stuff was scheduled for the day. We of us would be of the view that each reviewed getting information, guidebooks, situation is unique and for any given warm-up routines and climbing-wall rules operation there’s no single technique that’ll and etiquette. We covered these issues at cover all eventualities. On top of technical the indoor Hotrock climbing wall, which has competence, sound judgment and good a lead wall, autobelay devices, a bouldering decision-making are the key things. Mostly, Liam McCarthy training area and finger boards. this needs to be obtained through We all tried and failed to do one of the experiential learning, for which there’s no A plan can then be put in place for further corners with very delicate smearing and substitute. practice prior to the assessment. More bridging, so there is room for improvement The training is an opportunity to bring a generally, the three days of RCI training is a on teaching climbing technique! The wide range of issues together in an great opportunity for learning, revision and fibreglass wall in the centre is twenty years encouraging environment. This facilitates a sharing of information and experiences old but looks as good as new. We studied realistic self-appraisal of one’s strengths with other climbers and mentors. It is as fall factors using the centre’s useful small and weaknesses at the end of the training. enjoyable as it is worthwhile ■

Clues Across Crossword Competition 7 Africa’s highest peak (11). Win a pair of shoes from Basecamp if your correct completed 8 Highest peak in the Himalaya (7). entry for this crossword is the first drawn from the hat! 9 Dear me, that’s a big animal, found in 6 down, for example (3). 1 2 3 4 5 6 10 It is where the sun sets (4). 12 The pointed top of a mountain (4). 7 16 Common name for simple accommodation in the Alps (3). 18 First name of explorer who confirmed the New World to be a continent in its own right, separate from Asia (7). 20 Located on the border in the western Himalaya, the 8 9 ninth highest peak in the world (5,6). Clues Down 1 A person who glides over snow using long, slender runners (5). 2 A coat of wool or a lining used for warmth (6). 10 11 12 13 3 This afternoon, Prime Minister (2). 4 You might march in this, the arch of the foot between toes and 14 15 ankle (6). 5 See 15 down (4). 16 17 18 19 6 These mountains form the spine of North America (5). 11 Jewelled ornamental crowns traditionally worn by women (6). 13 With reference to limbs, flung out widely or haphazardly (6). 14 Country where you will find Shishapangma, the fourteenth 20 highest peak (5). 15 With 5 down, the name of climb (5,4). 17 You will need one for camping (4). 19 Made backwards, Dutch cheese (4). CROSSWORD compiled CROSSWORD byMacLOCHLAINN CóILíN Complete the crossword correctly and be in with a chance to win a pair of Merrell All Out Blaze 2 GTX shoes (pictured) from Basecamp, available in both mens and womens styles and worth €145. Send your entry to: The Editor, Irish Mountain Log, Mountaineering Ireland, Irish Sport HQ, National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15 to arrive not later than August 17th 2018. The winner will be announced in the next issue. Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 59 Books

Seilg i measc na n-iolar (a search amongst the eagles)

the logainmneacha ‘eagle’ sites to be found in single bird fledged in south (placenames) that are Mayo. Partly autobiographical, Donegal in 2016, though things associated with ‘iolar,’ the Irish at times philosophical, and improved in 2017. word for eagle. The author, liberally peppered with the Sea eagles, the author poet Seán Lysaght, describes impressions and insights of informs us, are secure at a the walks he undertook in people he meets along the handful of locations in the pursuit of eyries in the way, Eagle Country is a delight south of Ireland. Accompanied mountains and along the to read. by Lorcan O’Toole, current coastline of Mayo between As well as brief forays into Director of the Golden Eagle April and October 2014. Clare, Cork and Kerry, the final Trust, Lysaght visits one of the If personal accounts of chapter of the book, entitled active nests in Donegal. walks in familiar landscapes ‘Donegal Epilogue,’ assesses The overall conclusion is at appeal to you, then this is a the current status of the wild best cautiously optimistic: it lovely, companionable book to eagle reintroduction will be many years before sea take with you next time you programmes for both the eagles and golden eagles visit , the golden eagle and the white- become widespread again in Nephinbegs, or and tailed sea eagle, underway the skies above Mayo’s EAGLE COUNTRY mountains, but Eagle Country on . since 2000. The Donegal By Seán Lysaght serves as a gentle reminder of Places like Drumilra (Eagle golden eagle population is Little Toller Books (2018), 272pp, how prevalent these Ridge); Cregganilra (Eagle’s now in a precarious position: in €15.00, ISBN 978-1-908213-54-9 magnificent birds once were. Rock); Mount Eagle; Eagle 2014 there were three nesting Eagle Country explores the Island, Screigiolra and Barr attempts with a single bird John O’Callaghan Active member wild places of Mayo and the Nead an Iolraigh (Eagle’s Nest fledged; none of the breeding of Clare Outdoor Club and advocate west of Ireland, focusing on Top) are just some of the attempts in 2015 succeeded; a of all things wild in Co Mayo

Very impressive detail in new EastWest map at 1:25,000

stretching all the way from weatherproofing. from the excellent maps by in the north to Wickow Mountains EastWest Mapping, the Aughavannagh in the south National Park and the accuracy of the forest tracks and from east of Laragh to military firing ranges are and other on-the-ground the N81. It covers some of the marked in a new way on this features is every bit as good prime walking areas of map, with the national park as the previous series. The Wicklow, from the busy areas area marked with small green work that has gone into like Glendalough and circles and the military lands gathering place-name and to quieter areas by subtle red ‘x’s. While the historical data is very evident ripe for exploring with such marking of the firing ranges from the long list of people an accurate and detailed might be a bit low key for thanked in the heritage and map. some, it seems a good way place-names section, and The new 1:25k scale will feel to get around the ‘what’s in, the inclusion of features not more natural to most what’s out’ problem arising previously shown on maps of navigators than the old 1:30k. from the very complex the area. However, the most exciting Wicklow Mountains National EastWest Mapping has LUGNAQUILLA & development with this new Park land holding. Overall, I plans to republish its other GLENDALOUGH series is the contour interval think it works well and is not Wicklow maps using the By EastWest Mapping of 5m. The level of detail too intrusive. 1:25k scale and 5m contours, EastWest Mapping (April 2018), available from such a contour Other useful information is and these should be 1:25,000 scale map, €12.50 (on map available in the next year. interval is very impressive provided about ground paper) or €19.50 (laminated) This new map, and the indeed. conditions, with areas of others to follow, will be very This map is the latest in a new The map is printed on a peat hags, gorse, marsh, etc, valuable aids for any keen series of 1:25,000 maps for quality map paper, which shown, giving a good explorer of the Wicklow hills. the Wicklow area from appears to cope well with indication when planning a EastWest Mapping. It holds being folded and re-folded. route of what might be Mairead Kennedy Member of the great interest for hillwalkers, An encapsulated (laminated) expected in an area. Bootleggers Hillwalking Club, lives given the area that it covers, version is available for total As we’ve come to expect in south-west Wicklow 60 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Literary Editor Peter O’Neill A life well lived in search of adventure presents reviews of some recently very well researched and The chapters that follow published books. authoritative, but this latest reflect on a disillusionment one is more personal, more with mountaineering, as he autobiographical, as personal feels his ability waning, and a life events are interwoven into growing interest in Buy now the various chapters. and descending remote and This is the book we recommend most In 2015, at the age of 72, previously unexplored rivers. highly from our Roberts was diagnosed with Whatever he does, he seems summer 2018 throat cancer. This book is a to do at an extreme level. He reviews reflection on a life well spent, also introduces his cancer but he also describes various diagnosis in recent years as adventure and the expeditions and climbs, his evidence of the uncertainty possibilities for exploration own and others, and looks at of life. that still exist. the reasons that drive people Roberts looks at some of He also looks at his own life, to journey into the unknown his own explorations of still married to his original life LIMITS OF THE KNOWN and take extreme risks. remote cultures and then partner as he is, and the By David Roberts He begins by looking at the considers Leahy’s exploration WW Norton & Company (2018), adventures he won’t have attempts of Nansen to get to of Papua New Guinea, where 306pp, no illustrations, hdbk, £18.99, now. There is no sense of the North Pole, and the he was making ‘first contact’ ISBN 978-0-393-60986-8 being hard done by. He bravery that allowed him and with tribes in remote areas. recognises that he has been his party to head off into the All the time, Roberts is The author of Limits of the fortunate and lived a full life then unknown, when return reflecting on the differences Known, David Roberts, is an and reflects that there will was uncertain. between cultures, the experienced mountaineer and always be places we have not violence that is perpetrated explorer in his own right and He then considers the visited and things we have an author of some account. importance of Shipton and by one culture to ‘control’ not done. In his almost thirty books he Tilman’s partnership and their another, and the feeling in the All in all, this book is an has documented journeys to explorations, considering past that to fully control excellent reflection on what some of the remotest places what drove them on and why another culture you had to drives man to explore, by a on Earth, and some of the they were so successful. make them adopt your man who has lived a very full toughest climbs, and even In the next chapter, he practices. I am not sure, life. This book is a very rewritten history a bit in True looks back at the history of however, that I can agree with insightful and thought- Summit, when he looked at climbing. He also introduces the laissez-faire attitude he provoking read by a great the first ascent of his own growing interest in expresses with regard to author. in 1950, the first 8,000m peak early cultures and their female genital mutilation. climbed. relationship with mountains The last major chapter Patrick O’Sullivan Editor, Irish His books have all been and other wild places. looks at the future of Mountain Log Competition

WW Norton & Company, publishers of David Roberts’ new 25% discount offer book, Limits of the Known, have If you would like to purchase a copy of kindly offered three copies of this the book Limits of the Known, it can be hardback book as prizes in the ordered, postage free, from the WW following competition: Norton website via this link: https://goo.gl/BTK2dc. Question: What was the name of the first book David Roberts wrote, which WW Norton & Company are offering a is still in print, about his 1965 first 25% discount to all readers of the Irish ascent of the West Face of Mount Huntington in Alaska? Mountain Log, if you use the code WN548 when ordering. This code will Answers by post to: Limit of the Known Competition, remain valid until February 28th, 2019. Mountaineering Ireland, Sport HQ, National Sports Campus, Blanchardstown, Dublin 15. Closing date for entries: Friday, July 27th, 2018 (4.00pm).

The winners will be announced in the Autumn 2018 issue of the Irish Mountain Log.

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 61 Books

History of heroic climbs on a Himalayan giant

then a retreat. Such accounts read. In particular, he provides such ambitious objectives. can be cumbersome to follow interesting pen sketches of the How they all survived is and repetitive in theme. Not early explorers: Younghusband, remarkable: Scott with his this book. In a somewhat new Conway, et al. Unfortunately, broken legs, crawling down to departure for the genre, the he does not give a moral view base camp; Bonington author broadens on the effects of imperialism, suffering broken ribs and the literary scope, though to be fair he does not pneumonia; the others concentrating on a 7,285m condone it either. rescuing them without food mountain in the Part II is the author’s or immediate support; and he became very familiar with account of his and his team’s then the helicopter while attempting its first formidable first ascent of the evacuating Scott to hospital ascent, but also through his Ogre in 1977, via its Southwest crashing on landing. research on the history of the Spur and West Ridge, a fine The combination of the region. The result is very technical achievement in its accounts of both the history worthwhile. own right. However, the and the climbing given here The Ogre is a book of two expedition is better known for works very well. It is part of a parts. In the first, we learn the accident Scott had while forthcoming series by the THE OGRE: BIOGRAPHY OF about how the Himalaya and abseiling from the summit, author on prominent A MOUNTAIN AND THE Karakoram were formed, when he broke both his legs, mountains he has climbed. DRAMATIC STORY OF THE followed by the onset of early and the subsequent rescue Notable also is the high FIRST ASCENT European exploration and and retreat carried out by his production quality, with many By Doug Scott then commerce via the East climbing companions in a colour photographs, topos Vertebrate Publishing (2017), 192pp, and maps, which greatly many colour photos, topos and maps, India Company. Politics is heroic battle for survival, at £20.00, ISBN 978-1-911342-79-3 covered with the intrigue odds against the mountain, enhances the book’s value to between expanding and the weather and a lack of food. the reader. Overall, this slim Often, mountaineering books competing empires, Russian It’s a well-known story, but it volume is a gem, leaving this can be formulaic: an and British, for control of the gives fresh insight here into reviewer impatient to expedition plan and Karakoram, along with the the characters involved – discover more in the series. preparation, an approach, a surveying and mapping Bonington, Estcourt, Antoine, climb, a description of efforts vital to those Rowland, Braithwaite – Gerry Galligan Climber, explorer and a member of the Irish dangers and drama and influences. including the minor tensions Mountaineering Club. Gerry is obstacles overcome, if any, Scott’s light, matter-of-fact that existed between them, author of Climbing Ramabang followed by success or failure, style makes for an enjoyable not unusual when undertaking (Vertebrate Publishing).

Useful pocket guide to staying safe from hill weather

MOUNTAIN WEATHER: forecasts, such as our own flooding and snow and A FIELD REFERENCE Met Éireann. Severe weather avalanche hazards. The final By Jeff Renner events are defined. Then section covers staying safe in Mountaineer Books (2017). Folded there is a checklist of things the mountains, a quick guide card pocketbook in eight sections, you can do or look for to to weather safety. printed on both sides, with colour assess the weather you will All in all, this seems a very photos and diagrams. $4.95. experience before you go out. comprehensive and handy guide to severe weather This handy little pamphlet The minimum essential events, certainly useful seems to cover all the key gear is listed. First aid for information to have to hand points about the ways weather-related issues is when planning a day out in weather can affect us in the outlined, evaluating cold and the mountains, particularly in mountains. In fact, for a heat dangers. A couple of the the bigger ranges, where panels illustrate and explain postcard-sized pamphlet, it severe weather is more likely the significance of various has a surprising amount of to occur. information in it. cloud formations. Then The early sections give a several panels describe and Patrick O’Sullivan Editor, Irish good basis for recognising illustrate severe weather Mountain Log weather patterns. Readers are events such as fog, encouraged to look for a windstorms, thunderstorms source for national weather and lightning, wildfires, flash 62 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 Bonington reveals personal sacrifices behind triumphs

describes climbing the Old though she preferred the Man of Hoy. He first climbed countryside, spending this sea stack forty-eight birthdays alone and raising years earlier at the age of PHILLYACCT their two sons in her thirty-two. So now, aged husband’s long absences. eighty, himself an old man, Bonington recounts with the author very nicely ties painful honesty his son’s together the start and the troubled teenage years and end of his career as a later struggles with addiction. mountaineer. At times I could not help The book is not just for but wonder if the life of the mountaineers, although modern adventurer, jetting off those familiar with Everest or to climb unexplored the Eiger will be able to mountains, was a way of ASCENT: A LIFE SPENT identify with the logistical avoiding troubles at home. CLIMBING ON THE EDGE headaches, the elation and Certainly, climbing offered By the hardship associated with Bonington not just an escape, Simon & Schuster (2017), 423pp, reaching these summits. but a profession, when other colour photos and maps, £20.00, Bonington also describes career attempts failed. He has ISBN 978-1-4711-5754-7 lesser known peaks such as made a living from the Mt Kongur in China and the mountains, through writing, This book, Sir Chris Ogre in the Karakoram range. lecturing and photography, Bonington’s twentieth, is an Descriptions of these and and by age 18 he confidently interesting and honest numerous other challenging announced that “climbing The account of a life spent ascents, complete with now completely fills my life.” This book is not just for mountaineering. It is also a sketches, photographs and anyone interested in climbing; story of family life, of maps, make for a real page- Bonington offers honest it is for anyone interested in triumphs and defeats, losses turner. The author was reflections on the toll his an outdoor, adventurous life and friendships, and of particularly drawn to adventurous life took on and who enjoys a good personal tragedy. previously unclimbed peaks, those closest to him. Several autobiography. Bonington achieved many the more remote the better. times throughout the book firsts in a career spanning he acknowledges the It is apparent from his writing Pamela Harbison Hillwalker, a over sixty years. In the that his sense of adventure sacrifices his wife made for member of Tredagh Trekkers opening chapter, he has not dulled with age. his career, moving to London Hillwalking Club

Cork strolls more about the architecture than the walks

The Collins Press (2018), 190pp, that time is devoted to viewing illustrated with black-and- many detailed line drawings and the buildings, rather than white line drawings of all the hand-drawn sketch maps, actually walking. Naismith’s buildings described, and all the €12.99, ISBN 978-1-84889-342-9 rule would have these walks as maps are similarly hand- This book is perhaps 10-15 minutes each. drawn. misnamed because the words There is also a three-hour This is a fine book for visitors ‘Cork Strolls’ are in large print stroll around Cobh and a six- to Cork, and I suspect even on the cover, but it would have hour one in Kinsale. Another natives will find it very useful. been more appropriate to have eight buildings are described So, while these are not trails as ‘Cork’s Architectural Treasures’ that are further afield. Some, we usually know them, and no in the larger print. It is really a like the Waterworks and hillwalking gear is needed for these strolls, it is a nice book book about the architecture of Blackrock Castle, are a brisk and a useful companion to the Cork and it explains the history walk from the city centre, while earlier Dublin book from this of many interesting buildings others, like Blarney Castle or CORK STROLLS: EXPLORING brother and sister team. around the city and its Ballyvolane, are much further CORK’S ARCHITECTURAL environs. away – not within walking TREASURES: ILLUSTRATED Paul Walsh Hillwalker, a member of There are eight city strolls distance. CITY TRAILS Glenwalk Hill-Walking Club since described, typically taking 1½ There are no photographs in By Gregory & Audrey Bracken 2004 (where he is doing his third

Photograph: Ben Tubby (The Ogre) Tubby Ben Photograph: to 2½ hours each, but most of this book, but it is lavishly stint as walks coordinator) Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 63 Books

Popular hill routes for Dublin-based cyclists CÓILÍN MacLOCHLAINN CÓILÍN and Wicklow hills and, in this guidebook, he provides a compilation of arguably the most scenic cycling routes in the area. For each of the twenty routes described, O’Riordan sets out the very realistic expectations of the road The Military Road, Glencree ahead, with distance, gradient graphs, maps and tantalising photographs for each one. At Indeed, once you have this The routes would give one an the same time, he arms you guide in your hand you will idea for a section to incorporate with route-related information have bought yourself a into a longer cycle, but that’s on natural landmarks and challenge to cycle each and about it (for the hardier cyclists). I have no hesitation in historical features, most every one of the routes Ian has CYCLING SOUTH DUBLIN recommending this guidebook notably the Military Road, thoughtfully planned for you. & WICKLOW: GREAT ROAD to all cyclists, and I wish it had which is central to many of the The beauty of the guide is ROUTES existed eight years ago when I cycles. He also imparts his own that you can choose to cycle By Ian O’Riordan first took up cycling with the personal thoughts and one particular route on a given The Collins Press (2018), 152pp, colour Orwell Wheelers. experiences of the routes. day or choose to cycle two or photos & maps throughout, €14.99, Buy it, treasure it, it will open ppbk, ISBN 978-1-84889-344-3 There is a route to suit every more of the routes for a more your mind to the true beauty ability, from the complete challenging day out. and hidden treasures of our Ian O’Riordan is a sports writer beginner to the seasoned The routes are fairly well south Dublin and Wicklow roads, for The Irish Times, best known cyclist: routes incorporating known in the cycling world and, a cycling haven of deep glens, for reporting on athletics, his climbs to keep the legs to be honest, a hardened forested mountains and wild specialist subject, but also pumping – such as up Cruagh, cyclist would not specifically scenery. Indeed, dare I say it, it covering cycling, notably the Bohernabreena, Killakee, drive to an area to cycle them, could also be used as a guide for Tour de France, Giro d’Italia and Glencullen, Kippure, the Sally as suggested for some. tourists travelling on foot or by the Rás annually. A keen cyclist Gap and up to Glendalough Seasoned cyclists would travel bike or even car. himself and living in Glencullen and through the Wicklow Gap – a minimum of 100 kilometres in the Dublin Mountains, he is to routes of lesser height gain (60 miles) on a day out, so the Eileen Byrne Dublin-based cyclist very familiar with the better for a more relaxed day out on routes outlined in this book from Wicklow and member of the cycling routes found in the the bike. would only be part of their spin. Orwell Wheelers cycling club

Leinster cycling routes, often on small country roads

CYCLING NORTH : geography books. The reality is network of small roads to the GREAT ROAD ROUTES rolling roads and short, sharp full. Directions are given in few By Hugh Halpin hills. The hillwalkers who words so that it is not The Collins Press (2018), 158pp, €14.99, transfer to wheels will find that necessary to cycle with the ISBN 978-1-84889-345-0 they are being led into the guide in one hand. equivalent of a mature forest Considerable stretches of road This guidebook is intended for full of texture and secret can be covered by consulting use by cyclists who also travel gardens, with a play of light, the guide and then using the by rail. Each route starts and rather than to high ground contents of one’s memory. all but one finishes at railway with long views. This can be a If you think you know the stations on the Dublin-Belfast special pleasure and has the area already, be prepared to be or Dublin-Sligo lines. The added benefit of hedges to surprised. twenty-nine routes vary in offset the braking power of the distance from 24km to 131km, wind. Sé O’Hanlon Relict* mountaineer so there is something for Routes are carefully selected and a member of the Irish everyone in the audience. and, even in the east coast Mountaineering Club. Theoretically, the area, where the weave is tight, *Relict: “A thing which has survived countryside visited is flat, but the author avoids afflicting us from an earlier period or in a primitive this is a flatness found only in with repetition by using the form.” – Oxford English Dictionary 64 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 The Last Word Elizabeth (Betty) Healy

Pioneering climber, editor and author

Elizabeth (‘Betty’) Healy, who died and in Glenveagh, Lough Barra peacefully at her home in April this year and the Poisoned Glen in at the age of ninety, was a pioneering Donegal. She also went on climber and an editor and author of climbing expeditions abroad, guidebooks about Ireland’s natural and including one to Monte Rosa in built heritage. In many ways, Betty was a the Swiss/Italian Alps, where woman ahead of her time, who climbed she was stranded in an Alpine O’SULLIVAN PATRICK on an equal footing with her male hut for four days. counterparts. Brian McCall remembers that The middle of five children, Betty was what first drew his attention to adventurous from an early age. She left Betty was her capacity to create school at fifteen with a basic education climbs, to find a weakness in a and told her mother that she was never crag or on a mountain rather going to marry, because she wasn’t going than fighting her way to the top. to stand at a sink and cook food twice a He says that Betty also cared day. She never did marry. about the particularity of rock She worked in a shop in Cork, moved to types, the feel of granite under London for a year and then returned to the sun and the challenge of quartz in year round at White Rock on Killiney work in Dublin. It was when Betty went to Connemara, and about the warmth of the beach and continued to live in her home work for Bord Fáilte that she found her land and the land’s people. A climb for in Monkstown until her death. true passion. She became editor of Bord Betty was a love affair with a mountain, Mountaineering Ireland offers its Fáilte’s bi-monthly magazine, Ireland of not a battle. sincere condolences to the family and the Welcomes, a post she held from the He recalls that the ways Betty and he friends of Betty Healy. May she rest in early 1970s until 1986. Writers and poets climbed were quite different, it being for peace. such as Séamus Heaney, John Montague Betty a question of balance rather than of and pioneering female author Mary Lavin force. Betty loved a long, open rock-face Patrick O’Sullivan (with thanks to The th were commissioned to write pieces for with a trace of a layback, hopefully Irish Times of May 5 , 2018) the magazine, which captured the leading to the top. She was always a th essence of a modernising Ireland. careful climber, never having a serious fall Elizabeth (Betty) Healy: born November 27 th Betty had a hunger for adventure and over the years. 1927; died April 17 2018 the outdoor life. In his book The Way That She was known for her well researched We Climbed (The Collins Press, 2015), guidebooks, in particular The Paddy O’Leary described her as “the Book of the Liffey from Source to country’s leading woman climber for the Sea with Christopher First Ascent many years, and the pioneer of many fine Moriarty and Gerard O’Flaherty routes.” (1988) and A Literary Tour of In memoriam Elizabeth Healy Author, climber and broadcaster Ireland (1995). said that she climbed as Her other guidebooks By Robin Norton* an equal among an unconventional group included The Wolfhound Guide to of gifted men, including biochemist Frank Dublin Monuments (1998), The , Winder, physicist Peter Kenny and Wolfhound Guide to the River A rock-star in worn tennis-shoes and aran sweater architect Seán Rothery. Gods (1998) and In Search of Miles above Betty pioneered climbing routes in Ireland’s Holy Wells (2001). Swings to a hold Glendalough and on in Wicklow Betty also contributed to Glides with Pavlova steps Sunday Miscellany, the RTÉ From a granite edge Radio 1 Sunday morning To a rib of quartz programme. Pauses – all eyes on her Her painting and her interest Looking ahead in poetry, in particular the Leaning backwards over the steep grey void poetry of WB Yeats, resulted in Leans and with a swift recoil finds fresh poise an exhibition of her paintings By a tiny heather tuft. inspired by WB Yeats’ poetry in Carefully we turn to eye the lake the Sligo Yeats Museum in 2011. And miss the crowning moment Betty Healy remained fiercely A yodel of delight independent throughout her life And she is up. and never lost her thirst for adventure. She swam daily all *Robin Norton and Elizabeth Healy were members of the same poetry group

Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 65 The Last Word William (Bill) Hannon

Rock climber, mountaineer and hillwalker

William Hannon passed away and climbed with some of the in the early hours of April 5th, club’s pioneers – Frank Winder, 2018, at the age of eighty-eight. Betty Healy, Sean Rothery, etc. Known to his friends as Bill, he After they left the club scene, was a friendly, gregarious man, Bill continued climbing with who had had a lifelong passion the club for nigh on fifty years. for hillwalking, rock climbing He had an ability to mix easily and mountaineering. with old and young and to Born in October 1929 and forge new climbing raised in Drumcondra, Dublin, partnerships. Alpine trips, Bill was the second eldest of Scottish trips, the annual seven children. After his meets in the Lakes and Wales, education at O’Connell snow camps, night hikes, Secondary School, he winter routes in gullies and embarked on a career in the rock climbing on crags from public service, starting in the Kerry to Donegal were all grist Land Commission and with to his mill. He was a man for all subsequent periods spent in seasons and all aspects of they acquired their first car seventieth birthday by leading the Department of Posts mountaineering, from putting later, regular trips could be Quartz Gully, a classic but and Telegraphs and the up new routes in Wicklow and made further afield to Wicklow, demanding three-pitch HS on Department of Labour, before Connemara to climbing in the the , the Twin Buttress in Glendalough. he became Director of the Tetons and the Dolomites, to Comeraghs, the Mournes, etc. Initial attempts were thwarted National Manpower Service. backpacking in the Lairig Ghru In the 1970s, a group known by bad weather but, some time When that service was in Scotland and walking the as the Dalkey Walkers evolved after his seventy-first birthday, absorbed into FÁS in 1988, Bill Camino de Santiago. and Bill became a regular he finally succeeded. In later undertook a series of After he married Mairéad in participant in their hillwalks, years, trouble with his knee manpower services projects 1961, it was Bill’s passion for along with other locals, such as joints ruled out rock climbing overseas on behalf of the UN’s rock climbing that determined Derry O’Hegarty and Bob for Bill, but he still went International Labour Office the location of their first home, Curran. When Trekkers hillwalking regularly. (ILO) in Lesotho, Zimbabwe which was conveniently close Mountaineering Club started Thanks to the unstinting and Kyrgyzstan. to for a man up in the early 1980s, he joined support of his wife, Mairéad, a Bill joined the Irish whose only mode of transport that too. retired Dalkey GP, and his Mountaineering Club in 1960 then was a motorcycle. When Bill’s pioneering spirit in his family, Bill remained younger days brought him on a moderately active until his final series of impressive overseas days, meeting his old pals forays. On his trips to the Alps, regularly for a drink and a chat he climbed Mont Blanc and strolling in the vicinity of (4,810m) and the his home or along the Dalkey (4,478m), amongst other seafront. He participated in peaks, and climbed in the Trekkers’ walks until the onset and Greenland. of his final illness. Bill’s was a However, the trip that perhaps life well led. had the most enduring Our sympathies are extended to Bill’s wife, Mairéad, memories for Bill was his trip his daughter Iseult and sons, to the Rockies, where he Maurice, Stephen and Hugh. tackled Grand Teton (4,199m), Ar dheis Dé go raibh a anam. the highest mountain in the 310,000-acre Grand Teton Myles Duffy, Chairperson, National Park in Wyoming. Trekkers Mountaineering Club, More of an all-rounder than a Glenageary rock specialist, he was actually climbing better in his sixties Additional material from: than earlier. He made his first Gerry Moss, Irish VS leads at a stage when most Mountaineering Club of his contemporaries had called it a day. Eighteen years William (Bill) Hannon: born 1929; ago, he decided to mark his died April 5th 2018 66 Irish Mountain Log Summer 2018 The Canary Islands The Canary Islands, away from the tourist beaches, are a Mecca for hillwalkers who want to enjoy gorgeous scenery in subtropical climes, especially in winter. There’s lots of great walking in these islands. Check out these advertisements and book your holiday soon!

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Summer 2018 Irish Mountain Log 67 For more information visit www.mountaineering.ie or contact the office on (01) 625 1115

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