Tom Povey Is Let Loose in Morocco

47630_COVER 11/1/0412:44PMPage1 World Youths Easyice Escape Winter Skills Morocco Trek Aron RalstonInterview Style &Ethics World Youths Easyice Escape Winter Skills Morocco Trek Aron RalstonInterview Style &Ethics

www.thebmc.co.uk Winter 2004 UK £2.50 contents

features

14: Style Council Niall Grimes takes a look at the big issues of ethics and style.

22: Road Atlas Tom Povey is let loose in Morocco.

26: Cabin Fever Smooth sailing to your walking destinations.

30: Loft Conversion Do we really need a new European Standard for sleeping bags? Mark Taylor thinks not.

32: Hand Jam The Aron Ralston interview. Best sharpen your penknife! Plus: WIN the book.

34: Plastic Panic Behind the scenes at the World Youths.

38: Basics 4: The Fridge Steve Long's back, this time with winter advice for climbers.

41: Walk this Way Mal Creasey has some winter walking tips.

44: Easyice Get stuck into some Euro ice this season.

48: Expeditions 2004 A roundup of this year's adventures. regulars

3: The Issue 6: News 10: Access News 11: Frontline 54: Events 62: Last Thoughts

special offers

12: Stuff It's your lucky day - we've got another four more competitions for you to enter in Stuff.

36: The Outdoors Show / Climb 05 2 for 1 readers ticket offer.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3 008/11/20048/11/2004 10:39:5210:39:52 36 foreword WELCOME TO ISSUE 36 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to:

Negotiate access improvements and promote cliff and mountain conservation. Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment. Support events and specialist programmes including youth and excellence. Provide services and information for members. Peace of Mind

BMC he year is drawing to a close, and we're pleased to announce that 177 - 179 Burton Road, T2004 has seen a steady growth in membership. So I’d like to take this Manchester, M20 2BB opportunity to personally thank you all for joining - the organisation Tel: 0870 010 4878 would be nothing without your support. Simply by being a member you Fax: 0161 445 4500 offi [email protected] really are playing a part in securing the future of our sport. www.thebmc.co.uk Many people’s fi rst contact with the BMC is through taking out our travel President: Mark Vallance insurance. But what you may not realise is that just by choosing BMC Chief Executive: Dave Turnbull insurance you’re not only buying peace of mind, but helping out too - Summit Editor: Alex Messenger every penny of profi t is re-invested back into good causes.

EDITORIAL Contributions for Summit should be sent BMC travel insurance has been the market leader for many years, and to the Editor Alex Messenger at the above today many thousands trust us to provide the best quality cover for address or [email protected]. Every care exploits around the globe. It’s true that we’re not always the cheapest; is taken of materials sent for publication, mainstream companies dabble in specialist markets, and sometimes they however these are submitted at the sender's do undercut. For a while. risk. The views expressed within are of the contributors, and not necessarily the BMC. But by choosing BMC you're doing much more than simply buying insur-

PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY ance - your money stays in the sport, rather than lining the pockets of Greenshires Publishing insurance companies. This money allows us to employ ﬁ ve specialist staff Telford Way, Kettering working on access and conservation, technical and safety issues, youth, Northants, NN16 8UN climbing walls and competitions, and to co-ordinate the work of the Tel: 01536 382500 specialist committees who all beaver away on your behalf.

PUBLISHING If you like what the BMC is doing - don’t tell us - tell your friends. The Gill Wootton Display Advertising more people who join and support the BMC, the stronger the national Jane Harris voice of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers becomes, and the greater Classifi ed our political clout and infl uence in times of need. And remember, with at Paula Hearn least a 10% discount from most retailers with a BMC membership card, Tel: 01536 382500 you'll be in personal profi t too. Fax: 01536 382501 And whether you're escaping for the sun or crossing your fi ngers for Neither the BMC nor Greenshires Publish- ing accept responsibility for information a good Scottish season, this issue has got something for you; winter supplied in adverts. Readers are advised mountaineering, euro ice climbing, and trekking in Morocco. There's also to take reasonable care when responding the second part of the State of British Climbing series, looking at the to adverts. evolution of the unique British climbing ethic and posing a few poignant questions about the future. It’s as packed as ever, and I hope you enjoy RISK & RESPONSIBILITY it - stay tuned for Summit 37, bigger and better for 2005! Readers of Summit are reminded that climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are Have a great winter. activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement. Dave Turnbull BMC CEO

ON THE COVER: The Chancer, Hells Lum, Northern Corries (V,5). Credit: Cubby Images. See page 12 for a Cubby Images competition and their site www.cubbyimages.co.uk for more! 4

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4 008/11/20048/11/2004 10:24:1010:24:10 the issue

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WWindfarmsindfarms areare mmarchingarching acrossacross uplandupland BritainBritain - shouldshould wewe bebe worried?worried?

f you go out into the hills today...you be in the Parks, they’ll almost certainly be ignore when jumping into our cars and Icould be in for a shock. Increasing num- visible from nearby crags and tops. hopping onto flights abroad, something bers of windfarms are sprouting up in some Understandably reactions to such devel- has to be done. Finite fossil fuel reserves of the UK’s wildest areas, and opinions are opments are mixed, Alison Hill - Head of are dwindling, we have constant political divided as to whether this is actually A Communications at BWEA believes that we turmoil in the Middle East, and atmospheric Good Thing. should “harness the indigenous resources CO2 levels are now higher than at any time Perhaps it’s just perception? Many of us which are abundant in this country. On our in geological history. live in towns and cities, wind turbines only doorsteps we have a resource that is equiva- Is there an easy answer? Probably not. enter our visual world when we venture out lent to several times our country’s electricity Will we be subject to an almost Huxley-esque for a weekend away, so lets look at the facts needs, and the majority agree with the need vision of a Brave New World with proﬂ igate - are they really taking over or is it just over to harness it, whether they like the way wind wind turbine stations throughout the UK’s sensitivity? turbines look or not.” Councillor Margaret uplands? Maybe. And is the solution to all The British Wind Energy Association Munn, of Ardrossan, Scotland, seems to be our energy needs just blowing in the wind? (BWEA) recently stated, “as the best of the on board too, “The Ardrossan wind farm Only time will tell. renewable technologies currently available, has been overwhelmingly accepted by local wind really is at the forefront of meeting the people - instead of spoiling the landscape we Government's energy white paper targets, believe it has been enhanced. The turbines (TOP)() Wind farms: An increasinglygy common equating to some 8% of supply by 2010, are impressive looking, bring a calming effect sight in the wilds. Credit: Alastair Lee. requiring the installation of some 8,000 MW to the town and contrary to the belief that - which we anticipate to be divided roughly they would be noisy, we have found them to MORE INFORMATION equally between developments on and off- be silent workhorses.” www.dti.gov.uk/energy/whitepaper shore. That is about 2,000 additional onshore However Bernard Newman, editor of Climb- Our Energy Future. Creating a low carbon machines and about 1,500 offshore.” er and regular campaigner against wind farms economy, Energy White Paper, DTI (2003). After a bit of investigation, it appears that in his mag, isn’t quite so overjoyed, “the many of the proposed sites will unsurpris- disruption they cause to the UK’s countryside www.bwea.com/map/index.html ingly be in the windiest parts of the UK such and seascapes is an unacceptable price to pay A comprehensive summary of the current as the uplands, and to circumvent planning for Governmental tokenism.” And he has a state of play in the UK from the BWEA. restrictions, be located on the periphery of very good point, especially when you throw in National Parks. Considering that the latest the complexities of unscrupulous landowners www.wind-farm.org models of these hypnotically whirling white and the associated tax beneﬁ ts. For some alternative views. monsters are 110m tall, whilst they may not But unfortunately, as we all choose to

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 5 008/11/20048/11/2004 10:49:1010:49:10 news Hut Seminar Running a club hut these days can feel a little daunting with the raft of paperwork including the Disability Discrimination Act, fi re and buildings regulations, Hous- es of Multiple Occupation legislation and even septic tanks added to the mix. But the biennial BMC Hut Seminar aims to simplify these matters by discussing the key issues and sharing experiences between hut owners and users. Over 40 club representatives gathered at Plas y Brenin for the latest seminar in October. Whilst it was clear that some legislation issues were very complex and their impact on huts unknown, positive opportunities were highlighted too, such as grant funding for improvements, favourable status as Community Amateur Sports Clubs and visitor payback into local communities. And to help clubs through the mine- fi eld of running a hut, the BMC Huts Not so fi xed gear? Credit: Keith Sharples. Co-ordination Advisory Panel (HCAP) will be producing a series of factsheets on key issues. The State of Play Access Resource Pack Over 200 people attended the recent State of British Climbing The Access Resource Pack for BMC Access debates to give diverse opinions on a range of topics. volunteers was launched at a lively meeting at Chapel Stile, Langdale in October. The pack, produced by the BMC Access he three venues were Llanberis, Bir- discussed in detail and whilst no fi rm con- and Conservation Group should prove a Tmingham and Skipton, and concerns and clusions were reached, it was evident that valuable source of info for our hard work- opinions cropped up on all manner of things, people appreciated the need to retain a ing local access representatives and will from guidebook production in North Wales to diversity of climbing styles in Yorkshire. As be backed up with a CD-ROM and regular bolting in Yorkshire. At the Wales meeting, Dave Musgrove put it, “climbing is a continu- updates. Attendees also had the chance Pat Littlejohn and Nick Dixon set the scene, ally evolving game these days”. to debate real-life case scenarios and with Pat stressing the signifi cance of the Part of the BMC’s role is to help manage discuss suggestions for the future. It's British climbing ethic and the cautioning and infl uence this evolution, so if you want now planned to launch the Pack to reps against a shift towards the continental style to play your part why not get involved with based in the south of England and also ‘plaisir’ climbing. The overall feeling from the BMC in your area? Meanwhile turn to to provide media training. many present was that the fi xed equipment page 14 for part two of our State of British debate has run its course in North Wales - Climbing features on ethics and style. Moving Mountains the current situation is about right. The Skipton debate was another lively Next Debate: Sat 19th Feb, Olympia, Lon- Gavin Bates reports that the Moving affair, and chaired by Mark Radtke focused don at the Outdoor Adventure Show. Mountains expedition, as featured in wholly on the bolting Yorkshire limestone. See BMC website for details. Summit 32, was a huge success due to The benefi ts and drawbacks of bolting were a great response from readers. Moving Mountains is a charity raising money via trekking trips to support street kids in Kenya and renovate schools and clinics in the slums. On their latest trip several Magazine Moves Summit readers were in the group that successfully climbed Kilimanjaro via the The retirement of High editor Geoff Birtles seems to have Western Breach, joining two ex-street sparked a chain reaction in the magazine world. kids Peter and Kelly on the summit - shown below. eoff is moving on after remarkably subscription offer in Summit, and an unfazed Gediting over 300 issues of High and its Rob Elliot is launching a new independent predecessor Crags. Greenshires, the publish- title aimed at the harder core - Friction. ers of both High & OTE have now decided to Summit felt a bit left out, so we’ve merge both magazines into one super-title changed publishers too, moving from – Climb Magazine, which features more Greenshires who helped start the magazine pages in a larger attractive format, and will back in 1996 to head for the brave new world better address the broad base of mid-grade of Warners, who publish Climber. The benefi ts climbers than existing publications. Mean- of this should be seen next year, when we try while American glossy, Alpinist continues to and sneak more pages onto the press, so look make inroads into the UK with an upcoming out for some great improvements.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 6 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:07:4812:07:48 news Winter Meet '05 Are you a keen and experienced winter climbing masochist? Would you like to spend a week torquing with guests from around the world? If that sounds like your cup of iced tea, then how about joining the BMC International Winter meet as a host. The meet is from 27th Feb to the 6th March at Glenmore Lodge in Scotland, and if past ones are anything to go by, is guaranteed to be a lively time. More important than the grade that you climb at is having a good general knowledge of Scottish Winter routes and venues and the ability to get you and your foreign guest back to the bar before closing time when the weather turns nasty. If you’re interested, email [email protected] to ﬁ nd out more. Deadline for completed applications is the 28th January.

Frendo Spur. Credit: Ian Parnell Cheddar Restoration Through Martin Crocker’s sterling work, the two-year Cheddar Gorge Climbing Alpine Antics Project continues to gain momentum, seeking year round access (minus peak Want to come to the Alps with the BMC? We're thinking school holiday periods) to restored about running a BMC Walking and Mountaineering Alpine climbs on the main cliffs. The Proposal is actively being considered and consulted meet but need your help! upon by Cheddar Caves and Gorge, and a second phase is planned over this winter. he BMC is considering organising a a campsite to make it accessible to those on To help, Martin Crocker has produced a Twalking and mountaineering meet in the a low budget. The meet is only in concept small guide to all 120 restored and re- Alps next summer. The idea is to provide stage right now, so we need to know what geared routes. To grab one, send an A4 individual and club members with a great you think. Does this sound like a good idea? sae with a cheque for £5.00 made out opportunity to get together and go moun- If you like the sound of it than just drop Jon to Martin Crocker to: Martin Crocker, taineering and walking. The BMC would also Garside an email ([email protected]) and 23 Ryecroft Rise, Long Ashton, Bristol provide (at cost price) short guided courses if we get a suitably positive response we'll BS41 9NQ. Any proceeds will go towards for those who'd like to brush up on essential make it happen! Feel free to suggest ideal the Project. key skills. The meet would also be based at bases and dates too.

Simond Ice Screw Recall Simond are recalling Racing 190 and Brits Dominate UIAA MLTE Conference 230, and Super Racing 190 ice screws manufactured since Jan '00. In these The recent UIAA General Assembly in Delhi "Working with Young People in models a micro crack may be present on saw the long serving UIAA president Ian the Outdoors" the handle of the screw at the junction MacNaught-Davis (aka Mac) hand over the with the tube. This is diffi cult to see reins to another ex-BMC President, Alan The MLTE are having a conference with the and can grow larger with time. They Blackshaw. theme "Working with Young People in the have asked climbers to stop using screws The UIAA is the international co-ordinat- Outdoors" on 12th March 2005 at Warwick bearing the batch numbers below and ing body for world mountaineering, and Mac University. return them for checking: had taken over the presidency in 1995 fol- There will be an emphasis on looking at lowing the untimely death of his predecessor, how young people can be taught skills that Batch Numbers: and he went on to serve two full terms with will enable them to enjoy the outdoors 304/326/327/344/373/374/404/432 typical energy and enthusiasm. Alan joins throughout their life. The format will include (First three fi gures on the handle) the ranks of strong BMC volunteer represen- presentations and workshops from a number tation at the UIAA, since we also provide the of different organisations that work with Returns: Honorary Legal Adviser (Anthony Rich) and challenging groups and groups that are tra- Please return all screws to: Simond Presidents of fi ve Commissions; Dave Morris ditionally under represented in the outdoors. Ice Screw Recall, Mountain Works, The (Mountain Protection), Anne Arran (Youth), So if you work with young people then come Outdoor Business Centre, Parkside Bob Pettigrew (Access & Conservation), Ian along in March and have your say. Industrial Estate, Parkside Road, Alderson (Disciplinary) and Martin Wragg For more information contact the MLTE Kendal, LA9 7EN.Please enclose a note (Appeals). on 01690 720248 or see their website at of when and where they were purchased For more information about the UIAA and www.mlte.org. and your contact details. They will be its work check out www.uiaa.ch. checked and if faulty, replaced free of charge. See www.mountain-works.co.uk for more info.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 7 008/11/20048/11/2004 11:00:3611:00:36 news

Cheddar and Avon Latest ACT News Cheddar and Avon has been divided into two regions for access purposes, each More good news comes the way of the Access Wall in Wintour’s Leap. For several years with a dedicated BMC access rep. John and Conservation Trust(ACT) from the Castle it’s only been possible top out there during Baker will continue his valued work in the Climbing Centre in London. This time they the winter, leaving many of the top pitches Cheddar and Somerset area, whilst Steve were pleased to report a signifi cant donation overgrown due to limited traffi c. A fenc- "Clean Hands" Findlay is the new recruit to the Trust, raised from their climbing coming project is planned to allow year round specifi cally for Avon and Bristol. petitions – many thanks go to the Castle for completion of the climbs and full enjoyment their continued support. Those who entered of their majesty. Ecology at PyB the comps may well see a quick return on And fi nally, the Geojute matting installed their investment, since there are a number at Yarncliffe in June has settled into place A series of illustrated lectures are planned of potential ACT funded projects planned on and we are pleased to report that things are for all PyB instructional staff by Barbara the southern sandstone. already looking a lot greener there with fl oral Jones, Countryside Council for Wales Heading westwards, another ACT funded recolonisation starting to occur. ecologist. These will detail the current project should have a great impact at Go state of Snowdonia’s ecology, promote best practice guidelines, and identify potential conservation projects. Keith Sharples Calendar Leaders Wanted £9 members / £10 non-members + £3 p&p BSES Expeditions are looking for Chief Leaders for 2006 and beyond. BSES is ACT has also teamed up with climber/pho- WIN ONE OF a non-profi t making youth development tographer, Keith Sharples for his fi rst cal- FIVE CALENDARS charity based at The RGS in London. endar - climbing:05. Keith, a long-serving In true Summit Annually it mounts three 4-6 week ex- volunteer on the BMC’s Guidebook Commit- blagging style we've peditions in the summer, and one 2-3 tee, describes it as “an eclectic mix of boul- got fi ve calendars month expedition later in the year, all dering, traditional and sport climbing images to reward readers. to remote wilderness areas. So if you’ve from six countries on three continents” and All you've got to got team management experience with it's sure to brighten up any corner. do is answer: young people, a scientifi c / mountain- Even better, a percentage of the proceeds eering or expedition background, good from the sale of climbing: 05 will be donated Q. What's the name of Steve McClure's organisational skills and enough free to ACT, so everyone's a winner. Available in 9a route at Malham? time then email [email protected] for good outdoor shops, see www.keithsharp- more info. (There is a £1000 honorarium lesphotography.com for details or order Answers to [email protected]. plus expenses). online from the BMC website. Or perhaps And don't miss 5 more great competitions enter our readers competition to get one on pages 12 and 33. Survey Winners completely free! In July nearly a thousand BMC members took time to complete the BMC Member- ship Questionnaire to give their views ManCom Summary on hot topics such as work priorities, membership subscriptions and voting 6 October 2004, BMC Offi ce. The Treasurer the understanding that ManCom can view rights. A summary of the fi ndings are now presented the Budget Forecast for 2004, an operational plan by the end of October on the website, and 12 of the respondees which showed that the BMC is on target 2004. Graeme Alderson raised liability at were rewarded for their feedback in a for healthy year-end surplus. Bob Moulton indoor climbing walls, following on from a prize draw. A Lowe Alpine jacket for Mike presented the FPRSG’s detailed recommenda- recent court case involving Bristol Climbing Coles, a Lowe Alpine sack to Emanuel Mc- tions and the BMC’s Specialist Committee Centre. The case raised a number of issues Cann, and magazine subscriptions to; Liz structure. The report was welcomed and a regarding expert witnesses, the BMC climbing Mawson, Rachel James, Edward Dutton, successful vote was taken to agree the FPR wall manual and insurance implications. It Nigel Nix, Ian Batty, Jonathan Gregory, paper in principle. A draft version of the was felt that the BMC should reconsider the Graham Harrison, Peter Mandeville, Philip BMC’s Whole Sport Plan (WSP) 2005-9 was advice it gives out and remind the climbing Marshall and Anthony Cox. Many thanks presented. Dave Turnbull confi rmed this community of the risks involved and to stress again to all who completed and returned had also been sent to Sport England. The that climbers must be responsible for their a survey. aim is to get funding for work on public- own actions. It was reported that a BMC ity and communication and to assist with club consultation workshop had been very club and volunteer development over the constructive. next fi ve years. The draft was agreed on Area Meetings:

LAKES NORTH WEST LONDON & SE MIDLANDS NORTH EAST PEAK SW & SOUTHERN WALES YORKSHIRE

Fri 12th Nov Mon 22th Nov Tue 23th Nov Thu 25th Nov Mon 15th Nov Thu 2th Dec Sun 28th Nov Sat 13th Nov Mon 22 Nov Agricultural West View Francis House Railway Wickham Thorns The Grouse Undercover Rock Plas y Brenin Leeds Wall Hotel, Preston Francis St Hinkley 7.30pm Froggatt Bristol 6pm Gelderd Rd Penrith 7.30pm London 7.30pm OGM & AGM 7.15pm 6pm 7pm

Nov/Dec 7.30pm 7pm OGM & AGM OGM & AGM Fri 4th Feb Mon 31st Jan Tue 1st Feb Thu 27th Jan Mon 7th Feb Thu 3rd Feb Sat 5th Feb Mon 31st Jan Venue & time BMC Ofﬁ ce Francis House Rockface Wickham Thorns The Grouse Venue & Leeds Wall tbc Manchester Francis St B'ham 8pm Froggatt time tbc Gelderd Rd 7.30pm London 7.30pm 7.15pm 7pm 7pm Jan/Feb

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 8 008/11/20048/11/2004 11:02:5911:02:59 access news Shooters Nab and West Nab Low-key access to these crags by local climbers has been historically tolerated by the shooting clubs who own the land. How- ever, with CRoW Act implementation, new restrictions apply to the land between crags due to the ‘fall of shot’ safety zone. For the full details of the complexities of this case please call the ofﬁ ce.

Shining Clough & Rollick Stones The traditionally enjoyed access point from the track at Skew Bridge is no longer permitted by the new landowner. The BMC will make representation through ofﬁ cial channels but fortunately, easy access to the crag and surrounding moorland still exists from Longdendale Trail. When clay pigeon shooting is taking place a red ﬂ ag system will operate.

Yarncliffe Quarry Simon Redhead on the Spring boulders at The Geojute matting installed in June has the Roaches: ACT plans to regenerate the settled into place and we are pleased to Lower Tier coniferous woodland. report ﬂ oral recolonisation (and therefore Credit: Andy Higginson. soil stabilisation) has started to occur.

> SOUTH WEST > LAKE DISTRICT contact the climbers with a view to detailing events to the police. Roll on CroW. Cheddar Gorge Langdale Boulders The owners of the Main Cliffs of Cheddar A recent storm in a teacup brewed up over > NORTH WEST Gorge (South Side) agreed to climbing climbers allegedly damaging carvings on the commencing on certain cliffs from Sunday Langdale Boulders. Created by an individual Craig -y-Longridge 12th September. This applies only to 130 researching Neolithic markings at Newcastle The BMC has entered into discussions with climbs restored through the Cheddar Gorge University, the issue shot from local radio to the landowner with a view to purchas- Climbing Project supported by the BMC and the Guardian in a matter of days. However ing this unique bouldering venue. A draft Climbers’ Club. Access to all other climbs English Heritage (the national body respon- contract of sale has been produced and the on the Main Cliffs remains as before, i.e. sible for preserving such monuments), the creation of a local management group is with a 1st October to 15th March climbing National Trust and the Lake District National being discussed. season. This is a signifi cant access gain and Park Authority all agree that climbing is not its announcement came as phase two of the damaging. The BMC would suggest avoiding > PEAK DISTRICT project commenced. A list of the restored bouldering at a single location - the face on routes and general information can be found the lower boulder, which faces uphill back Chee Dale at www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/ched- towards the road. The BMC and Derbyshire Wildlife Trust have dar_restored.pdf now installed a new stile facilitating ac- > LONDON & SOUTH EAST cess directly beneath Plum Buttress. This is > YORKSHIRE used to avoid the traditional route across High Rocks the ecologically sensitive screes. Also, with Hawks Stones (Hugencroft) To tackle the twin issues of a recently landowners consent, sycamore trees have The big news from Yorkshire is the opening implemented £5 climbing fee and encroach- been trimmed from the Cornice area, signifi - up of Hawks Stones due to the CRoW Act. The ing vegetation, the landowner is being ap- cantly opening up its aspect. Similar work is preferred access route to the crag (from the proached with a number of proposals, whilst planned for the Embankment. pub car park) has been defi ned and accepted a conservation work plan has begun subject by the landowner and by Calderdale District to an ACT funding bid. Horseshoe Quarry Council, and has also been publicised on The land boundaries have been defi ned, and the web. On-site stiles and advice signs for the acquisition continues to progress. > NORTH EAST climbers have been installed with ACT funds, Roaches and many climbers have been enjoying the Crag Side fi rst visits to the crag since climbing was The BMC has been given the green light by The National Trust is opposed to bouldering famously banned in the late 60’s. the Peak Park to install fencing to conserve here due to visibility from a historic house. degrading path below the Mauds Garden area The BMC is working on resolving the issue. of the Upper Tier. In addition, we’re working > WWW.THEBMC.CO.UK on proposals to regenerate the Lower Tier South Esklets coniferous woodland and will be supplying See the BMC website Access problems continue at this remote volunteers for tree thinning work. For full details on any crag, see the Regional North Yorkshire Moors venue, with climbers Access Database on the BMC website. Don't recently being chased off by a farmer with rely on your guidebook - it could be out of a shotgun. The BMC is currently trying to date. See www.thebmc.co.uk/rad/rad.asp.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 1100 008/11/20048/11/2004 11:09:0111:09:01 frontline IT'S A DOGS LIFE: HENRY FOLKARD

“Budge is all right,” he said, the sheep, “ he says, “ they just need to and there was a good reason to believe be chased. Then the stress takes over and everything was fi ne. We’d just done Central they die. I lost 47 ewes and lambs to dogs Pillar on Esk Buttress - to be honest Tim had last year.” just taken me up it - and the rain had held What are Matthew Croney’s views? He is off until the last pitch. the estate manager for Stanage and North Budge was small, hairy, and unmistak- Lees. “Dogs are not really an issue between ably a dog. the end of October and the end of February, So off we set down the hill. Down the but in the bird breeding and lambing season, climbing; is it reasonable to let it run free scree, across some streams, through a boggy dogs off the lead are a growing and serious and irritate everyone else who has not bit, easy going on level ground and suddenly problem.” brought a dog, whilst wreaking havoc with all hell breaks loose - yapping, bleating, vio- What does the Dogs (Protection of Live- retreating wildlife? lent motion, bundles of woolly or otherwise stock) Act 1953 say? If a dog worries live- A few weeks ago I went to Scugdale and hairy things leaping and rolling. “He’s never stock on any agricultural land or is at large Peak Scar for the fi rst time. Little notices in done it before,” said his owner later on. No. in a fi eld containing sheep, the owner and both places. Access negotiated by the BMC I thought, they never have. the person in charge commit offences. for climbing, but please - no dogs. “What on earth’s wrong with taking my And the Countryside and Rights of Way So what do you do about it? After all it’s dogs when I go bouldering at the Plantation Act (2000)? Dogs must be on a two-metre everyone’s consequence if access suffers. on a summer's evening after work? I never lead during nesting and lambing seasons and What do most climbers say if they see see any sheep or birds there. They never do thereafter under control - with provision for another, with dog off the lead, in the nesting any harm. They are trained.” additional restrictions on grouse moors. season where there are lambs about? There is passion in the voice. The world But even if something is not strictly Nothing. They never do. would be a worse place if owners didn’t care illegal, does perception of a right justify about their dogs. Innocent and healthy en- abandonment of respect and social respon- joyment for all. I wonder what the winchats sibility to others who may be affected by Henry Folkard thought. Saw them fi rst and left home? our actions? Stuart Ollerenshaw farms the land around Is it fair to the dog to tether it to your Peak Access Rep. Burbage, “the dogs don’t need to attack (or someone else’s) rucksack when you are

Over 64,000 hillwalkers, climbers and mountaineers put their trust in the Insurance you can British Mountaineering Council to provide expert advice, services and information on the outdoors. TRUST BMC Insurance is designed by experts to give you reassurance and peace of mind wherever you travel. All our quality policies are designed to be free from unreasonable exclusions or restrictions. What’s more all surpluses from “BMC Insurance… BMC services are invested in work for me it’s the that promotes your interests only choice.” and protects your freedoms – Sir Chris Bonington so the only one to profit is you! BMC insurance • Simple and easy to purchase • Cover available for many sports • Immediate professional service including hillwalking, trekking, climbing, and skiing • Worldwide 24-hour helplines All BMC • Comprehensive medical, policies come with a • 10-point customer service charter search and rescue, repatriation personalised emergency 3-day to annual cover • and baggage cover come as contact card • UK, Europe or Worldwide cover standard with no hidden extras

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 1111 008/11/20048/11/2004 15:50:2515:50:25 stuff TNF EYEQUIPMENT

Summit Spectra 5 £115

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 1122 008/11/20048/11/2004 11:25:4211:25:42 CLIMBING BBIGIG ISSUES

PART 2: ETHICS AND STYLE BY NIALL GRIMES, BMC CHIEF ETHICIST

o one ever wrote a climbing rule book but that doesn’t Nmean climbers don’t know what is good and bad style – and what isn’t fair play. In this second article on the big issues facing climbing, we look at the importance of ethics and style and how they are changing.

is a very natural Because a route is more than just the area of Climbing activity, but a rock or ice covered during an ascent. Implicit veryTHE artifi cial STATE sport. How many OF of us BRITISH have in its defi nition CLIMBING is also the way in which we ground our teeth at some wise-ass shouting: cover the ground. “Hey Spiderman! There’s an easy way up Climbing doesn’t have any rules to tell you round the back!” This is, of course, almost how to cover the ground, unlike many other always the case. The general public can see sports. There is no offside, no handball and the point in climbing Everest. The challenge no penalty boxes. Most of us love this idea of is obvious. living without rules. Most of us accept that But what we, as climbers are doing, and you don’t damage the rock or the environ- what the general public cannot see, is that ment in any way. We agree that whatever a challenge doesn’t have to be public. Each you do you should be honest about it. But of us can challenge ourselves with our own beyond that, you are free to enjoy climbing rules for the satisfaction of just ourselves. in whatever way you want, and the more fun That is the great appeal of climbing. Getting you have while doing this the better. to the top of anything doesn’t have to be What climbing does have, are ethics. the point. It’s how you get there, the style Ethics are used as an almost moral guide to of the ascent, which really matters. the challenges that climbers set themselves. When we look at Everest in the 21st Cen- It sounds simple, but ethics are one of the tury, we’re not shocked that so many people most complicated issues in climbing. They want to climb the thing. It’s the style in emerge naturally from what we value about which they climb it, with massive Sherpa climbing, which is how a sport climber can support, bottles of oxygen, miles of fi xed view trad climbers as needlessly reckless, rope, and guides to lead them. Where’s the and a trad climber thinks a sport climber is challenge in climbing a 51-year-old route in missing the point. that style? Some will even claim that this When someone makes an ethical decision, kind of person isn’t a real climber. they make a decision to climb a route in a Of course, how we climb is a personal certain style, and that style might compro- choice and we’re free, more or less, to climb mise the climber’s chances of getting up the how we choose. But over the decades, those route. This decision will be based on how the that have earned the most respect for the climber believes a route should be climbed. way they climb their routes have been those It is based on what they see the challenge that have thought most carefully about the as being. In a way, it is done because the style and ethics they use to climb them. climber feels that it would be better to fail

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I sometimes wonder why The Indian Face doesn’t see more attention, since it's an amazing line, one of the best. An ascent would still carry a lot of kudos and there are people out there quite capable of doing it. It might well be that there’s a perception that it should be saved for the onsight now, a mindset thinking, “it’s only F7c”. But if you think like that, you’re misunderstanding the nature of the route. It doesn’t lend itself to an onsight, no matter how good you are. It’s blind, smeary and insecure. Even if you’re young, talented and bold, you could land yourself in big trouble 30 ft out from poor RPs - it's totally unforgiving. Or the lack of interest could just be down to fashion,the focus has turned away from the mountain crags towards bouldering and walls. But one thing is for sure, this country is incredibly healthy with its different genres and the consensus that deﬁ nes them. There are new routes in the Alps by Pat Littlejohn that haven’t even been credited to him because he didn’t bolt them - instead the equipper gets the credit! That's insane, history becomes completely meaningless. Nick Dixon

THE INDIAN FACE (LEFT) Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has long been a forcing ground of ethics, with The Indian Face (E9 6b/c) taking things to a new level in more ways than one. The ﬁ rst part was ﬁ rst climbed to an old bolt head by John Redhead in 1982. In 1983 Jerry Moffatt found a way past the bolt, which he removed, to create Masters Wall, and in 1986 Johnny Dawes rose to the challenge of the headwall to take a major leap forward for British climbing. The route had to wait eight years for this repeat by Nick Dixon in June 1994 after four sessions of practice and preplacement of most of the protection. Credit: Gary Smith.

"The upper wall is really hard, the gear now too far away, death real and looming, and it's too much to remember. You can't headpoint it like a grit route; the bubble is going to burst and you'll be there naked, humiliated, and grasping at life. All you'll have is experience, a moment, and regret." - Nick Dixon, 2nd ascent.

Several days after Nick Dixon, Neil Gresh- am made the third ascent.

"For a split second of complete tranquility, I actually don't mind giving in. I resign myself to defeat and prepare for the unimagi- nable." - Neil Gresham. 3rd ascent.

John Redhead, despite placing the original bolt was unhappy with pre-practice being employed. 10 years later the route has not seen another repeat. Nick Dixon went (Information and quotes courtesy of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on to climb Face Mecca in 1989, also on Guide, Climbers Club 2004 by Nick Dixon). Cloggy, coining the word headpoint for the pre-practiced approach used.

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Pre-practicing the most diffi cult trad climbs seems to be accepted now, but there is a process of evolution at work. Climbs which are fi rst established with such headpoint ethics now stand as onsight challenges for future generations. It’s a shame to apply headpointing to lower grade routes. When I fi rst got into grit I was encouraged to leave the E5’s and 6’s alone until I felt ready for the onsight - not only does this reduce polish, but it encourages you to work at being good at onsighting. Today it’s established that every effort must be made to place the gear on the lead when headpointing, but this wasn’t certain until very recently. Ten years ago it was still unclear whether a pinkpoint was acceptable; a method used extensively in the US and Australia. So when myself and Nick Dixon climbed The Indian Face in ‘94, we were used as case studies for public debate. I tried to place all the gear on lead but fell off revers- ing to the fl oor, and went back and climbed it with the gear (that I’d previously placed) still there. At the time, people were reluctant to directly criticise, purely because the issues weren’t cut and dry. But that ascent ironed out many grey areas and today I’d defi nitely either attempt the down-climb again, or place all runners on the lead. The big thing that’s changed about modern trad climbing is the need for openness about ethical practices. It frustrates me sometimes to hear older climbers going on about the good old days when men were men, and yet it’s so obvious that a fair number of historic ascents just wouldn’t be accepted if similar tactics were used today. And worst still when some of these climbers come forward to criticize the new generation. After all, who was John Redhead to criticise Nick Dixon and me for top roping The Indian Face when he placed a bolt in it? I appreciate that the sport needed to be pioneered somehow, and that this process will involve an element of experimentation, but there’s a difference between making attempts to establish ethical boundaries and blatantly contravening the ones that have already been set. Tactics such as leaving the ropes clipped up for multi-day yo-yo’s and lowering down to rests are things that you just don’t hear any more, and that’s surely a healthy thing. More importantly though, if a fi rst ascentionist of a bold climb is blatantly misleading about the tactics they’ve used then this could potentially endanger subsequent ascentionists - a practice to be deplored. Neil Gresham

The most exciting aspect of climbing, onsight new routing on sea cliff or mountain crags, has slipped out of vogue. But it will be back, seducing suitors to walk for miles, get covered with bird sh*t, fashion a special rack and risk capsizing in some Neil Gresham on Ejector Seat (7ct) unseaworthy craft. I can't wait! at Cova del Diablo, Mallorca. Deep Anne Arran water soloing is almost always onsight - no headpointing here! 16 Credit: Mike Robertson. 36

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in one style than to succeed in another. (RIGHT) Rob Elliot climbing Frankie When Lito Tejada-Flores wrote his seminal Comes to Kilnsey, F7b+, Kilnsey Crag. article Games Climbers Play in 1967, he Credit: Dave Simmonite. argued that a handicap system had evolved to equalise the challenge and maintain the Oh Frankie - What a saga. This line feeling of achievement in each climbing was originally aided on very poor pegs category, and this system was expressed as by Alan Stevenson and Duncan Drake the ethics of the various climbing games. in November 1984, and graded A5. So whilst using a ladder to bridge a crevasse It was then freed by Pete Gomersall in on a Himalayan mountain wouldn’t ensure 1985 at F7b+ with three bolts added certain success, it would be absurd to use a for protection, but these were swiftly ladder to summit a boulder. Ethical climbing removed by enraged aid fans. So in merely meant respecting the set of rules of that July Martin Berzins freed it again, the game being played. without any bolts, but in somewhat Think of a fi rst ascent. A climber may dubious style. The bolts were then want to do a new route, and may feel that replaced, but in June 1987 Martin the best way to do a fi rst ascent is on-sight, Berzins removed them again and starting at the bottom and leading into the climbed the line in better style using unknown. It is easy to see how this lessens only natural protection. Bolts have their chances of success, as the climber since appeared and disappeared at won’t know the grade, nor whether it is even regular intervals. Surely this route possible to climb the route. As such, many should be called "When Two Tribes people argue that on-sight fi rst ascents are Go To War"? the greatest challenge in climbing. There are many examples of epic fi rst ascents on Cloggy or in Scotland, where massive amounts of commitment are needed to get up climbs. Conversely, some climbers will compromise on their ethics to get a route in the bag, and it will be left to those who come after to improve on that style. First ascents are where the pressure of ethics is most keenly felt. When someone claims a new route, the claim tends to stick as long as the ascent passed the most basic requirements. It is extremely rare for a fi rst ascent ever to be disregarded. In the end no one discounted Ed Drummond’s fi rst ascent of Midsummer’s Night Dream in 1973, even though his tactics were questionable, using a bolt, skyhooks, several pegs and top rope practice. And although omitted from the 1976 guide, his name is in there today. As long as the fi rst ascensionist is willing to make the claim, they are accepted. This goes for chipped routes, routes with rest points, routes with aid points, routes with side runners, routes that used chalk, routes with bolts, routes with pegs, routes with shoulder stands, nicked routes and crap squeezed-in eliminates. But as a general rule, all subsequent ascents are required to at least match and preferably improve on the style of the fi rst ascent. A very interesting example of ethics at work was seen in the 1980s in Huntsman’s Leap in Pembroke. Pat Littlejohn is responsible for a huge number of fantastic new routes both in Britain and abroad. He has always aspired to doing his routes in the best style possible, frequently climbing them on-sight. He was also an original member of the ‘Clean Hand Gang’, a group of South West climbers who rejected the use of chalk, as they felt its use compromised the onsight experience for subsequent climbers. In the recent video Sea Fever, Pat described early ground-up ascents in the Leap. He then returned one weekend to fi nd that Peak District climber Gary Gibson had laced

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Byron Connelly solo downclimbed The Right Unconquerable at Stanage Each route offers a challenge, and in the 1930’s. This pre-dated the fi rst each climber is in a bracket. I onsighted conventional ascent by Joe Brown in some of my fi rst ascents and headpointed 1949 by some way, but it seems that others, but that’s just me. Others might fi rst descents just don't count. succeed on one yet fail on another - it’s all Here Sam Whittaker is going up in the down to personal characteristics and the more normal fashion. route. Some people are tall, some are short. Credit: Pete O'Donovan. Some routes are clean and open, others dirty and blind - it’s never linear or rigid. But however you climb what you will know is whether you’ve taken the route as an adversary or friend, simply used it or really known it. And whether what you’ve known is then available to other people. Climbing rock is interesting. We climb on the rhythm from which we were made and get to experience a fresh rhythm each time. If we chip, bolt or top rope, we’re reducing our interaction and our whole experience. So which level of interaction do you go for - is it worth making the compromise? These days there is a certain falsehood in the media and industry, which drives a compromise, not in ethics but in personal standards. So and so might go and climb X at Curbar without practice, but not give a sh*t about it, they just want the attention. Whereas in the past, even though someone may have chipped something, they did it because they adored it - they just loved the climb. It used to be about going out and doing what you wanted, and if that fi tted into a framework, fi ne. Now you have to defi ne yourself, the media projects an image and some people seek out available slots like consumers. Look at all the brands, the life- style thing. Everyone wears the same, it’s like uniformed anarchy. Johnny Dawes

Hard Grit did wonders for British climbing, resulting in more people headpointing hard routes, but the ensuing hype defl ected attention from the true British ethic of ground up ascents. I always used to be against the use of plentiful matting for bold routes. I wanted to recreate, or where possible improve upon the styles of previous ascents. To me, improving upon the style a route has been climbed in can be as important as the fi rst ascent itself. Although having said that, I’ve still got a lot more respect for someone who climbs Ulysses ground up, above four pads, than for someone who sits in their proverbial armchair, “saving it” for the onsight. In some ways British trad climbing has moved on a long way over the past 15 or 20 years, but there are some aspects that have remained stagnant, or even regressed. A lack of quality fi rst ascent lines remaining seems a plausible but feeble excuse. Efforts like Johnny Dawes’ ground up attempts on Hardback Thesaurus for example, are rarely, if ever, seen nowadays. Ben Heason

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THE PROTECTION RACKET Climbers have been wedging weird things into cracks since the dawn of time. Here’s a quick ﬂ ick through the ages of protection:

STONE wood when he made the PLASTIC first ascent of Clippety Pebbles from the Snow- Clop at Ramshaw Rocks Niall Grimes' bubble-wrap don Railway were inserted in 1991, but he did shout life-vest, fi rst seen at the in cracks on some of the “I am Jerry Moffatt. I 2002 DWS Festival at Port- Cloggy routes pioneered in am Jerry Moffatt. I’m on land is still in develop- the 20’s and 30’s by the likes toprope…” whilst soloing ment, and not yet available of Morley Wood and Fred the route. This perverted from your local climbing Pigott (later to become BMC form of psychological pro- shop. President) tection was replaced by a large plank by subsequent NYLON Natural chockstones ar- ascentionists. tifi cially placed in cracks Rope has been used for are a feature of many old METAL many years as an integral It's Time For Tea for Adrian Berry at Mill- gritstone routes. With the part of the climber’s pro- stone. Credit: Nick Smith. advent of large cams, some The fire poker from the tection system, but once people think they should CIC Hut on Ben Nevis was again Johnny Dawes came grit, the repeated placement be removed, whilst oth- used on the fi rst ascent of up with a novel use for On and removal of nuts and cams is having an ers believe the historical Point Five Gully. But it was it when he protected his extremely detrimental affect. Placements context of the fi rst ascent only copying the plucky solo of Charlotte Rampling are being worn away at an alarming rate, should be maintained. Is poker from the Climbers’ at Gardoms Edge with a sometimes in a way that improves their it Right to Eliminate these Club Hut at Helyg, which cat’s cradle/spider's web, holding power, and sometimes not. Cams in fi xtures? had already featured on to catch him if he fell. particular eat away at the sides of cracks to quite a few ascents, and The ropework was supple- create concave surfaces. This improves the WOOD was used to remove one mented by some rotting placement, but by destroying the hard patina of the pegs on Tryfan’s grass turfs. This pre-dated of the rock, the rate of erosion increases. Wooden wedges were used controversial Munich Climb the invention of boulder- So I feel that the dogmatic insistence prior to the invention of in the 1930’s. ing mats, although Johnny that leading is somehow morally and en- large cams to protect some had also foreseen that vironmentally superior to be fl awed. Top wide crack climbs, such Spanner Wall at Running development too, and was roping is currently seen by many climbers as the 1961 Whillans test Hill Pits is protected by a seen dragging a bed mat- as somehow wrong, when in fact, this form piece Forked Lightning large in-situ spanner in a tress around the gritstone of climbing avoids the placing, loading, and Crack at Heptonstall. borehole. edges in the 1980’s. sometimes violently removal of the hallowed leader protection which causes such damage. The French guides in Johnny Dawes became Beau Geste is a 30-foot The growing hostility to top roped climbing Chamonix must have heard quite adept at protecting gritstone route with ef- is fuelled by the BMC’s statement; “The BMC about Brown and Whillans’ some of his gritstone mas- fectively two runner place- strongly supports the approach to climbing wooden protection, and terpieces with hand-placed ments, yet standard prac- based on leader-placed protection which concluded they wouldn’t pegs. The protection on tice is to lead it with three makes use of natural rock features,” and a mind if they equipped Braille Trail consisted of a ropes and two belayers! rethink is surely required in order to preserve the Fissure Brown on the Rurp and a six-inch nail, the crag environment. British Route on the West both hand-placed and held HOUSEHOLD APPLIANCES I would also like to clear up something Face of the Blatiere with in place by tape. whilst not wanting to enter into a bolt de- 75cm wide wooden wedges. Brewing up with Morley bate. Several years ago Steve McClure and These were removed by Skyhooks were invented Wood in the Llanberis slate myself made the second and third ascents of Pete Minks and Brian Mo- for aid climbing, but some quarries ascends a flake the Pembroke route The Big Issue. This route lyneux. of recent cutting edge grit- crack passing a number was given huge publicity, and used to push stone routes have utilised of unique "chockstones" an anti-bolt pro-environmental agenda. But Andy Grieve must have them on undercuts with placed by Martin Crook and I can tell you that viewed close-up, after the heard about the Fissure elastic cord to hold down George Smith. With stones, bolts were hammered fl at, and alternative Brown, and protected his marginal hand-placed pegs kettles, and bricks as your fi xed protection (jammed wires and a peg) fi rst ascent (onsight) of in breaks. only protection this is were placed, it was a total mess. Garth at Hazard Quarry “the scene of some serious The route has never really been climbed in with a hand-placed, tied- Car jacks are not needed derangement, not to men- a traditional style to this day, and remains a off tree branch. for protection on Right Un- tion the abuse of various de-facto sport route - just that now it’s even conquerable, and using one kitchen appliances.” more of an eyesore. After our ascents, we Seb Grieve (no relation to retrieve a jammed cam removed as much of the jammed gear as we to Andy) obviously wasn’t resulted in a large section could - but is a jammed wire really “better” aware of the power of of the fl ake breaking off. than a stainless bolt? Adrian Berry

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the Leap with abseil points, had cleaned White Hotel, the latter being one of the hard- and borrowed his mate’s chalk bag. and prepared lines for climbing, and added est ground up fi rst ascents ever completed. To further blur the edges, not long after, copious amounts of in-situ thread runners It’s interesting to see what can be Gibson lost out on a route he was trying to in the process. achieved with a bit of healthy competition. solo when Simon Nadin led it with a side-run- This went against the ground-up ethic Pat could well afford to be more relaxed when ner. Several years later Pat caused outrage in that was generally accepted in the area at his lines were all left to him. When the heat North Wales by placing a bolt on the Lleyn the time. Despite this, Gary’s claims would was turned up, he was willing to compromise Peninsula. None of us are perfect. But there be accepted. Under threat and forced into his ethics - but not much. For some of these is a general consensus in Britain about what action, Pat fi rst climbed Witch Hunt and then routes, he abandoned his clean-hand ideals constitutes the ideal fi rst ascent. And without ethics, climbing is merely athletic attainment. It becomes about the BETA BE PREPARED summit, not the route, the destination rather than the journey. Himalayan siege mountain- "I was sandbagged into the onsight fl ash!" Climbing eering, aid-bolting your way over Malham Overhang, even most headpointing on grit, has evolved a whole lexicon to explain the various all of it boils down to doggedness and application. As Reinhold Messner said, that is styles of ascent. Here's what it all means: tantamount to murdering the impossible. Climbing is becoming mainstream. Modern Beta: Prior knowledge of almost any- Britain, refl ecting modern America, prizes thing about a climb. With the advent goals, achievements, the next level. Those of climbing forums, beta cheater guides, new to our sport could easily think that it how-to articles, and dvds, onsight as- is all about doing E10, 9a+ or V15. Perhaps cents are becoming increasingly diffi cult it will go that way. But if it does, I think to claim. climbing will become an infi nitely less interesting activity. Ballpoint: To claim an ascent, often So let us try to always remember how we a fi rst ascent or early repeat, without climb is as important as what we climb. This actually having done the climb. is not to say that nothing should be bolted and no one should toprope and the only way Batmaning: Regaining your highpoint to climb is onsight solo naked and barefoot. after a fall by pulling up on the rope. Of- But that we should measure our achieve- ten used in conjunction with dogging. ments by the standards that we set ourselves and not some random number or grade. Flash: To make an ascent without When Lito Tejada-Flores wrote his article, practice (but perhaps with Beta) and at most climbers still at least tried most games the fi rst attempt without falls. Opinion that climbing offered. Nowadays the sport is divided as to what constitutes Beta. is more fragmented than ever. Dry-tooling, To some people, even knowing a route’s deepwater soloing, modern bouldering, grade makes the ascent a fl ash rather Redpoint: To ascend a sport climb headpointing; none of these were around than an onsight. without falling or resting, after previous in 1967. But there is still a great deal of attempts or practice. Quickdraws can be respect for those who can master different Frigging: A non-specifi c term usually placed whilst climbing or pre-placed. disciplines. applied to an ascent or an attempt which That remains the great strength of Brit- doesn’t conform to the accepted style Sandbagging: To deliberately under- ish climbing. Plenty of climbers are still for a particular climb. Frigging often rate the diffi culty of a climb in order interested in the head games as well as involves some form of assistance from to appear superior to other climbers performance, and still prepared to climb the rope. Also a mild expletive. or to encourage others to attempt a on everything from gritstone boulders to climb, knowing they will fi nd it harder granite peaks in the Himalaya. The narrower Hangdogging: (aka Dogging): than you described it. Surely this never the game becomes, the narrower the rewards Falling or resting on protection, often happens?! and the narrower the minds of those who repeatedly, in order to work out a se- seek them. quence of moves.Not to be confused with Toprope: To climb with the belay So what has the BMC got to do with all something else. rope secured from above. For some the of this? To be honest, not much. Or at least, ultimate evil. not much beyond making sure that everyone Headpoint: A traditional route which is heard, that tradition is respected and that is led after (toprope) practice, sometimes Yo-yoing: A style of ascent whereby the crag environment is not undermined by with pre-placed protection. The tradi- the climber lowers down after falling, what climbers do. The BMC has never been tional equivalent of a Redpoint. but leaves the rope pre-clipped at the and never could be an arbiter of ethics. highpoint, and then re-ascends. That’s up to you lot, out there. Just don’t Onsight: To make an ascent at the fi rst cock it up.|| attempt without falling and without any Cheating: Dogging, headpointing, prior knowledge. Sometimes referred to pinkpointing, redpointing, toproping, or as "proper climbing". yo-yoing a climb, and then claiming you fl ashed or onsighted it. Many thanks to all who contributed to this piece. All feedback to summit@thebmc. Pinkpoint: An archaic term, now co.uk if we made any errors! obsolete, which formerly differentiated a (ABOVE) Teamwork is an important Redpoint from one where the quickdraws part of climbing, but standing on your Next time: were pre-placed. partner’s shoulders is not acceptable these days! Credit: Keith Sharples. Part 3 - The Crag Environment.

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Tom Povey loses himself in Morocco. RROADOAD ATLASATLAS hen I awoke it was silent, but still completely dark. My face Wwas buried in the folds of a sleeping bag, drawn up tightly to form a spout. It was now thick with ice crystals, cold and wet on my nose. The tent air was freezing cold. I contorted myself in an attempt to loosen my arms, which had wedged Fatimah - a Berber girl who lives on the edge of the Sahara. at unlikely angles during the night. Credit: Tom Povey.

had regained some feeling in one of my arms, Baffl ed, I wondered whether our three-day blizzard-enforced When I I extracted the wads of toilet paper that I had incarceration in the tent had fi nally sent him loopy. I pondered this stuffed into my ears the night before. Then, savouring the experience, in silence. Then the sleeping bag spoke, “I’ve been thinking about I let the silence wash over me. I was soothed. I felt tranquil. Then it for quite some time. That is what I’m going to say if you call me there was a noise. At fi rst it came as a gentle snuffl ing and shuffl ing; up with any more stupid ideas… 'the answer is no'. I’m sorry Tom, like a mouse, or another small rodent. Then there was an unmistakable the answer is no,” the bag emphasised. sniffl e, and I realised, belatedly, that it was my companion, squashed I found my torch and turned it on. The tent walls were icy and in beside me in the tent, and now, presumably, awake. sagged with the weight of the snow. Tiny avalanches let loose as I “Arthur?” I said quietly. bashed the walls, fashioning a space to sit up. I unzipped the door “The answer is no!” The owner of the voice was the sleeping bag of the tent and dug about in the snow-fi lled porch with wet, numb beside me, which had devoured its victim like a boa constrictor. “What hands. I found the stove and a pan, knocked the worst of the snow do you mean, no? I haven’t asked anything yet,” I retorted. off them and pulled them inside, “Shall we stick some coffee on?” “That’s the answer to whatever you were about to ask.” “Yep, lovely, “ Arthur’s face emerged from the sleeping bag, bala-

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clava-ed, bearded and running with snot. “Might taste a bit funny though. I had to go in the night,” he added. “What do you mean, go?” I scrutinised him. “You know pee. Don’t be a fuss-pot, it's totally sterile! What do you say we have some choccy with it? I say we have some!”

made in haste to embark on a trip A decision to foreign climbs is invariably something which one lives to regret, and this trip would, in due course, prove no exception. It had been arranged in rare haste. Less than a week before we left England, whilst browsing aimlessly in Stanford’s, I’d come across a relief map of North Africa. Spotting white where there should only have been a sort of sandy brown, I learned that North Africa was not merely the desert I had previously supposed it to be. There were mountains there too. Big ones. I telephoned Arthur in the hospital in which he worked. He was operating, “Hi, fancy going climbing in Morocco?” I asked casually, enjoying the feeling of spontaneity that it gave me. “Yah, why not? When are we going? Tell you what, we’re working on an eye, could you book the tickets?”

later we landed in Casablanca. It was an Six days early morning in mid-March, and very hot. Even King Mohammed VI, depicted in the numerous murals that bedecked the airport (and, we later discovered, every other offi cial and non-offi cial building in Morocco), seemed to be sweating. We travelled by train to Marrakesh, from where we took a bus heading south and into the High Atlas Mountains. In Asni, as the sun went down, we haggled with the driver of a dilapidated Mercedes taxi. Long after dark, we arrived in Imlil, several miles further than the end of the last metalled road. Utterly exhausted, we collapsed in the marketplace. We lay on our packs amongst the orange skins, donkey crap, and general detritus of the square, and gave in to an overwhelming urge to do nothing. After a while we were surprised by a young Berber man, who, unnoticed atop an old lorry a few yards away, had been quietly observing us. “You are tired,” he announced, in perfect English, “I shall now fi nd you somewhere to sleep. Perhaps you will please follow me.” It would have been foolish to decline. We did not. The following morning was cold, and the concrete fl oor we had slept on seemed harder than it had been the night before. Our English-speaking friend was nowhere to be seen. We brushed our teeth in an indescribable lavatory, which I assumed was reserved exclusively for guests, and went back to our room. After a length of time that was long enough for us to have discussed leaving several times, but short enough that we had not yet left, a tiny, toothless man with very dark, wrinkled skin, and skeletal limbs appeared at the doorway of our room. He stood there unselfconsciously and fi shed about within the folds of his long black robe, looking for something. His costume reminded me of the Blackfriars in Oxford, though there was something altogether less jolly about this Blackfriar. “Good morning, are you the proprietor?” said Arthur, cheerily. The Blackfriar said nothing, and then, majestically, held out three eggs. The smooth shells emphasised the impressively gnarled and twisted hand that held them. The tough, grey-black folds of skin made him look like an old olive tree. We looked at each other in baffl ement, then back at the Blackfriar. Then he opened his mouth very wide, tipped back his head, and held one egg aloft, directly above his mouth. Just as I though he was going to perform a trick, Arthur blurted out in excitement, “It’s our brekky!” “Of course we will have some,” he continued, grinning, “Make us up a big Berber omelette, I’m famished. Can we have coffee with it?” The Blackfriar grinned back a toothless grin, then vanished. “He is Berber isn’t he?” said Arthur.

(RIGHT) Our friendly muleteer with luggage, before he, and our water, disappeared. Credit: Tom Povey

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were forced to descend, dejected, to the open snowfi elds below. By late afternoon, the snow was wet, and the going desperately slow. I furrowed my way diagonally up a fi fty-degree slope. It was steep enough that a slip would have meant a fall all the way to the valley, over a thousand feet thousand feet below, and there were enough protruding rocks to ensure a pretty rough ride. A large band of rock ran vertically down the centre of the slope, splitting it into to large snowfi elds. I reached it, glad of the relative safety it offered, took off my pack, and collapsed onto the fl attest boulder I could fi nd. I broke off a chunk of ice, and started to suck on a corner. In the distance Arthur was sitting in the snow. I could feel his exhaustion across the slope that separated us, and, suddenly, I remembered that there were twenty-fi ve years between us. I felt sorry for him, and guilty for dragging him him to Africa so that he should suffer. The years that had vanished so easily in the normal larking and silliness of our friendship were suddenly apparent. Then, pity and guilt were replaced with an overwhelming sense of admiration and affection. As he stumbled towards me, I realised that here was a man who, having prepared for it by spending thirty Arthur Lister brandishes the bottle of solid ice with which he years on-call in a hospital, would set out to cross the Atlas Moun- bravely shared his sleeping bag. Credit: Tom Povey. tains at the drop of a hat. Just when everyone else was complain- ing about the decline in standards of service at the Marriott, and worrying about getting the garden in shape for the summer, Arthur “I’ve no idea; he looked it.” had thrown a spare jumper into the back of the car, glued up a hole “Oh well, at least he’s going to make us some brekky. I’m fam- in his parka, and set out on an extended tramp though the highest ished.” mountains in North Africa. Stuffed with Berber omelette, we struck out at a gentlemanly “You OK, Arthur?” I asked. He looked awful. “I think so,” he pace into the mountains. At Aroumd (the highest village in the val- wheezed. Then, resting his forehead against a rock, “Actually, I don’t ley) we engaged a friendly muleteer to carry our packs. We loaded think I can make it. I’m completely knackered.” the mule, and, light of step, climbed into the treeless desert of the We sat there in silence for a moment while he regained his breath. Moroccan Atlas. The sun was unpleasantly hot. “Come on, let me take something,” I The moment we were out of sight of Aroumd, our muleteer un- said. “OK, how about the Smash?” He produced two enormous plastic loaded the mule, exaggeratedly hefted our bags several times, mimed jars from his pack. He put them side-by-side on a rock and we both that his mule was very old, and made us feel thoroughly guilty for stared at them. “Do you think we’ll eat all that?” he said. “We would punishing the poor beast out of pure laziness. Then, having doubled have to be pretty hungry, wouldn’t we?” There was a long pause. “Do the agreed price (presumably to buy his mule its favourite hay), he you think Berbers eat Smash?” he mused. reloaded the packs, swung athletically into place on top of them, and remained there for the next fi ve hours, all the while swigging evening, and miraculously, since from our only water bottle. We followed at a distance of a quarter That early our one-centimetre-to-ten-kilometre of a mile, slowly shrinking through dehydration. Michelin road map of Morocco had proved almost useless for naviga- Sometime in the late afternoon we reached the snowline (3200 tion, we stumbled upon the pass. The valley fell far below us as we m). There, leaning against a small crest of snow beside the path, kicked the fi nal steps up the thin cravat of snow in the neck of the were two packs. Ours. The only signs of either muleteer or mule were couloir. Before reaching the top, we checked the altimeter - it read a few strands of hay, and an empty water bottle. Arthur sat down 3600m, this was defi nitely it. wearily, then, lying back in a windblown drift of snow, adopted a We reached the saddle at the top, and a new world opened up puzzled look. before us. Framed by towering ochre walls, and shimmering red in “Do you think he’s buggered off?” he asked the sun, lay the fl at and arid vastness of the North African desert. “I reckon that he has.” I joined him in the drift, and enjoyed We stood there, panting, and stared. the cool sensation of the melting snow slowly wetting my dusty “Golly! Is that the Sahara?” said Arthur. I looked at him, and found trousers. that he too, was moved by the vastness of it all. We both gazed long, Arthur stared up at the sky, a rich turquoise, with here and there out, across the dunes, “Do you know? I think it is,” I observed. a long thin fi nger of pink candyfl oss. He closed his eyes and asked, “Well”, said Arthur, drawing in his fi rst Saharan breath, “I say idly, “Do you think he’ll come back?” we jolly well take a peek at it. What do you say you old fool? I say “I suppose he probably won’t.”. we do.” ||

lasted for three days. We The blizzard emerged into a beautiful land of deep snow and jagged black cliffs, savoured morning coffee (with When not adventur- just a hint of pee), stretched out crumpled limbs, and decided to ing, Tom Povey teach- travel south, deeper into the mountains. The sun was intense, and es Engineering at the we soon realised that it had been foolish of us to leave our hats at University of Oxford, home. We fashioned turbans from our cotton sheets, which we refi lled where he is a Fel- with snow at regular intervals - a revitalising ritual. low at St Catherine’s Higher up, the snow lay deeper on the ground, and eventually, College. He is also a when it became thigh deep, we were forced to turn around. Instead long-standing mem- of going back, however, we climbed high on the snowfi elds on the ber of the BMC. east side of the valley in an attempt to fi nd a pass through the cliffs that guard the Saharan side of the Atlas. Several times we climbed to the top of a gully but, barred by sheer stretches of vertical rock,

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 2244 111/11/20041/11/2004 10:46:3710:46:37 WALKING CCabinabin FFeverever

Get ahead with extreme caravanning. Toby Reed hops onboard.

ver camped in torrential The image is just wrong. You can’t spend terious world of sailing can remain impen- all that time and effort getting the “rugged etrable to the average landlubber. Since let’s Erain, glancing in envy mountaineer” look just right, and then go face facts, even if for some strange reason and blow it all by towing a big plastic box you wanted one, a conventional caravan is at dry caravans whilst you behind a Volvo can you? No, it’s not the costly enough - but a boat? Come on, the done thing - unless your caravan happens closest most of us ever get to life onboard crouch in the tent porch to ﬂ oat. is a quick trip on the Channel Ferry. Surely It’s a scandalous thought that would sailing is best left to the retired city types in cooking soggy pasta? Of have your average yacht club member up deck shoes, sipping G&Ts on the Med whilst in arms, but sailing is in fact just extreme the sun goes down over the yardarm. course you have, we’ve all caravanning. Think about it for a second; Almost. Whilst you may well need to slip you’re squeezing into a small mobile home on some deck shoes, the cost of chartering been there. But unfortu- taking all the luxuries of life with you, such a boat for a week is now within the reach of as a shower and hot water and then cruising many climbers and walkers, and certainly in nately it seems to be an around until you spy somewhere interesting the same league as renting a holiday cottage to stop for the night. Admittedly there’s a for a group in peak season. And you’ll get a unwritten rule that caravans few more hazards to watch out for; sinking, cottage with a real difference - one you can and mountaineering just shipwrecks, and a strange sporadic tilting up and move if the weather closes in. at alarming angles, but nothing too hard to There are two types of boat charter don’t mix. come to terms with. Plus there’s very little available, bareboat or skippered. Bareboat chance of acquiring a stream of irate motor- means just that, you get the boat without a ists behind you on the open waves. crew, but that’s only for those with suitable But despite all the tempting advantages of experience and the relevant qualiﬁ cations. (ABOVE) Sunset in the Hebrides - pass the having a mobile home to moor off the shore Skippered means you’ll get the boat, plus the G&T captain! Credit: Toby Reed. of otherwise inaccessible locations, the mys- captain to “drive it” and perhaps another

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member or two of crew. The size and type change it on the hoof as conditions develop. of the experience, not something merely to of boat will vary. For inshore British waters Dolphin Haven Yachting for example have be tolerated en-route to the campsite, and you’ll normally be on a 30 to 45ft boat, recognised a new hole in the market and now there’s a chance to see some impressive sleeping 6-8 and when comparing different offer services specifi cally designed to meet marine wildlife at close quarters. options check the number of beds quoted and the needs of climbers and walkers. In fact the only real surprise is that more the boat layout. Berths will almost always This is very flexible, and means that climbers and walkers don’t realise what a include those created from the lounge seats you can make the most of even the most great way sailing is to get to their objectives (see - just like caravanning). unpromising weather. But such fl exibility is in style, and add an extra activity to their On most trips you can decide on your de- only the tip of the iceberg, the real power holiday. So next time you’re hunched over a sired level of involvement with the sailing. If to this kind of skippered charter is that no pan in the drizzling rain remember - there you’re keen to literally learn the ropes, most matter what you get up to, the skipper and is another way! || skippers will be happy to oblige, or you could crew can remain onboard at all times. sit back with a camera and just lend a hand Dropped off and collected from different (ABOVE CLOCKWISE) every now and then. At standard rates you’ll points on the Knoydart shore? No problem. The Sea Dawn of Dolphin Haven - making short work of passage to Skye / Lunga, a normally be expected to help out with the Food on the go by the time you’re picked remote island in the Hebrides is famous for general duties, but many outfi ts also offer up from the base of the Cuillin Ridge? Easy. its puffi n colony / Loch Scavaig on Skye, a daily add-on rate if you’d prefer to let What you have here is a highly effi cient, anchoring here gives walkers and climbers someone else take care of all that - check eco-friendly and civilised transport system a unique approach to the Cuillin Ridge / before you book. to some of the most inaccessible spots in Tacking. All credit: Toby Reed. All very well, but how does it fi t in with the UK. You can get straight into the heart climbing and walking? Well, on a set trip of areas such as the North and North West MORE INFORMATION from a larger company perhaps not very well of Scotland, Skye and the Hebrides and www.dolphinhavenyachting.co.uk at all. But there is an alternative. Smaller start your adventures from a very different Charters tailored for climbers and walkers. outfi ts allow you to charter a boat for the perspective. Life will perhaps move at a Special Summit offer: 6 travel for the price week, plan your own itinerary and then slower pace but the journey becomes part of 5 if booked before 31/01/05.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 2277 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:19:0112:19:01 Mark Taylor on why seasons are out this season. lloftoft conversion

he right sleeping bag since that would encourage convective cur- an expensive heated mannequin for testing rents to begin their insidious work. This gap safety clothing and was looking to extend Tcan make or break a trip. needs to be fi lled with something to trap its use. Initially sleeping bag manufacturers still air yet prevent conduction, like down supported the scheme, thinking it would sim- It’s the difference between and modern synthetic sleeping bag fi llings. ply put an end to high street shops popping No attempt is usually made to prevent heat four season tags on anything that moved, a cosy night's rest and ten loss by evaporation as this would be uncom- fortable (ever slept in a plastic bivi bag?), about the EN test: hours of uncontrolled shiv- or radiation since at low temperatures this is minimal. To get an idea of what was deemed ering. But choosing the chilly, they used historical data from seasons German soldiers. Using macho blokes right bag can be a tricky probably wasn’t the best idea since all The age-old problem has always been choos- their results now come out too cold. business, and it’s not been ing the correct bag for the intended end use. Hard at the best of times, more so when Originally they had two manne- made any easier by a new some manufacturers have been economical quins, a male and female. The woman with the truth. In the past there have been dummy consistently needed an extra EU standard. a number of disparate regulatory standards, 5’c of insulation. and it’s been normal practice to label bags for customers by seasons. Slapping on a 1, keep it in A major manufacturer sent off some of 2, 3 or 4 season tag, plus a “5” season to Sleeping bags can be highly technical bits its range for testing and got different indicate the highest rating for either altitude of equipment, but their job is essentially results from two different test houses. or arctic conditions. Originally the ratings a simple one - to keep a heat balance by Not very standard! were obtained by fi eld-testing, but over time providing enough insulation to match your they were correlated with, and eventually heat loss with your level of production. We’re The mannequins' big toe is kept at ex- replaced, by a British Standard tog test (a constantly losing heat to the environment actly 35’c. Not realistic when you con- tog is the measure of thermal resistance in four ways; conduction (touching colder sider that extremity circulation shuts used in the textile trade). Whilst these may surfaces), convection (air currents drawing down to keep the core warm. A cheap be pretty arbitrary, at least they’re intuitive, heat away), radiation (like an electric fi re), cylinder would be a better model. and retailers experience suggests that most and evaporation (through breathing and customers buy above their requirements as sweating). If you lose heat faster than you The EN test can’t cope with bags an additional comfort factor. produce it then you’ll enter a heat debt, get designed to operate below -20’c. But progressively colder and eventually die of four season bags go down to -25, and hypothermia. Not much good at all. you must conform fi ve season to -40. Sleeping bags are designed to reduce the But to combat the apparent vagueness of the losses from conduction and convection to a season tag, a new test was designed - the One major retailer has already scrapped minimum. They achieve this by attempting EN 13537. This had its root in Germany, a EN labelling after being challenged by to maintain the best barrier to conductive country famous for inventing complex test Trading Standards. heat loss; an air gap. Not too big though, methods. A research centre had developed

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but now some are having second thoughts. In the new test, the bag is placed on simulated ground consisting of a 12mm thick wooden board covered with a mattress with a hints & tips thermal resistance of 8.5 tog. This "ground" is held clear of the fl oor of the test chamber how to choose a bag: to allow air circulation and the magic thermal mannequin is laid on its back into the Be realistic. What are you going to bag - neatly dressed in a tracksuit and knee use it for? Alpine climbing, cold weather length socks! Power is then pumped into the expeditioning, trekking or backpacking? dummy and measurements begin. Will you be carrying the bag or car camp- At fi rst sight this test appears an improve- ing? Be honest with yourself to get the ment since it tests the whole sleeping bag right balance of weight, fi ll and outer. and occupant assembly, however there are serious problems. Firstly the “ground” itself Down vs synthetic? Down is more has a higher tog value than some lightweight expensive but offers a better warmth to sleeping bags, compounded by the sleeping weight ratio and normally lasts longer (15 mat used having four times the insulation of to 20 years ). Where weight is an issue a standard foam sleeping mat. Trading stan- or in very cold environments then down dards are already receiving complaints that is the number one choice. Synthetics some lightweight bags are way overrated. win if it's constantly damp. You could Secondly the results can be seriously always own a high performance down misleading for variable insulation bags, i.e. bag plus a cheaper synthetic for dossing those where the insulation is thinner in the on mates fl oors. base than the upper section. In fact having no insulation at all in the base won’t even Don’t be fooled into thinking that a ful washing and drying did recover the change the fi gures. And unlike existing meth- water resistant shell is automatically down to almost its original performance, ods there has been no attempt to correlate better. Sure it will help to protect the fi ll it would seem that less well traveled the results with user trials. from spindrift and spilt tea but it will also feathers from local manufacturers are a The expense of the whole procedure is trap perspiration inside, affecting lofting better bet. also considerably greater than the simple after a few days. In mountaineering situa- tog measurement under the BS system. One tions the advantages win out but any bag manufacturer recently tested their entire with a water resistant outer should be and how to treat it: range of bags to the British Standard for less reversed and aired more frequently than than the cost of a single test to the EN. Per- a standard bag. Dry any moisture out at the earliest op- haps less of a problem for larger companies, portunity. This is particularly important but if complied to would crush development Purists would say that a bag doesn’t for down since any moisture during stor- in the small ones. Costing you, the consumer, need a side zip, adding weight, cost and age can cause it to clump and no longer in more ways than one. exposing potential cold spots. But most loft properly. Finally, and most importantly, the test of us like to vent a bag, or if we get lucky, can result in dangerously misleading label- zip it to a partners. So make sure that If the bag is dirty or clumped then ling being applied - ironically exactly what the internal baffl e behind the zip is large wash it. Always follow the manufacturers it aimed to eliminate in the fi rst place. The enough and doesn’t snag. instructions but down bags are best pro- end results of the EN testing are two comfort fessionaly washed and dried. Try Franklins ratings (a maximum and minimum) and an Fill power is a measure of the loft of in Sheffi eld (0114 268 6161). extreme rating for each bag. For example; the down - how well the down resists +20/-5/-22. But there’s been no attempt to compression. But fi ll power cannot always Professional cleaning is expensive. link this to real life; these upper and lower be directly compared between bags. A Limit the number of times you need it “comfort” limits cover the potential for 600 fi ll power bag from a US supplier will by using a silk liner. They’re lightweight, death from hypothermia or hyperthermia. loft less than a 600 fi ll power bag from add to the warmth, and cost the same as And the extreme temperature is defi ned as the EU due to differences in standards. a single professional clean. the temperature “below which serious injury It’s also worth considering where your will occur” - that is, you’re expected to die, bag was made. The International Down Store bags uncompressed, preferably not just feel a little chilly. and Feather Laboratory found that down laid fl at, for example underneath a bed. tested in the US, shipped to Asia for mak- Next best are mesh bags. Never store a ing into jackets and then shipped back bag compressed in a stuff sack for an the future extended period of time. With the introduction of this standard, all to the USA had decreased in fi ll power by that’s been achieved is another layer of con- 15 -23%. As many companies now make fusion into the buying process. How cold is their equipment in the Far East, this is it at night in a Scottish mountain hut? How something to be aware of. Whilst care- chilly does it feel during an Alpine bivi? Dif- fi cult questions, since it’s all very subjective Dr Mark Taylor has been involved in sleeping bag testing for three years at the Perfor- anyway. Are you a hot or cold sleeper? When mance Clothing Research Group, University of Leeds. He’s also been on the BMC Equipment did you last eat - one persons cosy night is Investigation Panel for four years specialising in helmets, rope and textile equipment. His anothers nightmare. Confronted by confus- colleague Dave Brook has been involved in testing sleeping bags for 30 years, both on ing fi gures, comparison graphs and incorrect international caving expeditions and in the lab. ratings, buyers are simply going to need an easy way to visualise the bags function. Like Thanks to Rab UK for advice and images. (LEFT) Al Powell enjoying his shell bag on the grouping them by seasons perhaps? || SE face of Jirishanca, Peru. Credit: Al Powell. (ABOVE) Credit: Rab/Dave Willis.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3311 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:21:4912:21:49 HHANDAND JJAMAM ith little hope of survival, I push the knife into Wclimber Aron Ralston, 27, cut off his own arm with a leatherman my wrist, watching tool to escape from the boulder that had trapped him for ﬁ ve days deep my skin stretch in- in a remote desert canyon in eastern Utah.

wardly until the point Two years on and he’s back climbing, plans to be a mountain guide and has a best- pierces and sinks up selling book out. Summit caught up with the man who’s experienced the ultimate in to its hilt. In a blaze hand jams.

of pain I know the WHAT'S IT LIKE TO HAVE A BOOK OUT? It’s a real mix. I regard it as a great achievement, and I’m really proud. It’s been hard though, the last few months have felt similar to an endurance event, like an enchainment of peaks back to back! job is just starting. I There’s been heaps of travelling of course, but the most interesting aspect has been seeing how it’s affected different people. To many the story has been an inspiration, and provided them with a bit of help and determination in their lives; getting through cancer treat- motivate myself: ment, returning to activities, making a career change, whatever. The ripples seem to go on and on.

HOW HAVE PEOPLE REACTED? Surprising! Obviously people are pretty fascinated with the whole hand amputation scenario, but what’s stuck with many people is how I quit my job (as an engineer at Intel) to follow my passion for climbing. That’s something you just don’t do in America, especially “OK Aron, here we go. in the Tech industries. I get recognised at airports now, which is hard to get used to. People come up, smiling, shaking hands, even crying. They usually have a story to say about how the book helped them. I really couldn’t understand it at ﬁ rst, but now it feels good You’re in it now.” to bring a little power to people, to help lift their own psychological boulder as it were.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3322 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:25:1212:25:12 CAN’T ALL BE POSITIVE THOUGH? Well, every mom in the world thinks I should have left a note of my plans, but that’s to be expected! It’s something I fully acknowledge too. I was there, in that gully, thinking, “Aron, you’ve just cost yourself your life.” But I had to accept what I’d done and just get on with it. I’d made a choice and I needed to move forward and accept the responsibility. I’d led myself down there, I’d set it all in motion. According to the experts, that’s one of the key survival traits. Sit- ting there full of self-pity, thinking "why me?" - that’s what kills you.

WHEN IN HIS CREVASSE, JOE SIMPSON FELT NOTHING THAT LED HIM TO BELIEVE IN GOD. HOW ABOUT YOU - ANY INSIGHTS? (ABOVE) Day three trapped in the canyon. Dehyrdated, starving I’ve read Touching The Void many times, both before and after the and deprived of sleep he had already tried to cut through his arm canyon, although afterwards I got a rather different slant on it. In with a blunt blade. It was to be two more days before snapping some ways it was a similar experience, yet in others totally different. his own bones proved the key to escape. He’s a profound atheist, whereas I have a strong faith, perhaps not in the conventional way, but it’s there and the outdoors is effectively (LEFT) Aron on South Maroon Peak, March 2003, a month before my church. In the canyon despair was replaced by an inner spark of his ordeal. Both credit: Aron Ralston. spiritual energy, which if I had to give it a name, would be called God. And if I pray, I’d pray to God. Although to be honest, when I didn’t get a reply from him I was trying everyone in turn for an SO YOU’LL BE THE FIRST ONE-HANDED answer. God, the Devil, Buddha - anybody in? But it does seem to me that there was an element of divine intervention about when I MOUNTAIN GUIDE? started snapping my bones to begin the escape. If I’d done it any Er. I guess so, yes. Although I don’t think of it like that, half the other time, the hikers wouldn’t have been there. The helicopter time I forget I’ve only got one hand - it’s just irrelevant. And as far wouldn’t have been there - I probably wouldn’t have made it, I’d as equipment goes, I haven’t had to make too many modifi cations, I have bled to death. use an autolock belay and abseil device for obvious reasons. Most other things are fi ne, even jumaring, I just use the same set up as before. YOU’RE CLIMBING AGAIN WITH A NEW AND FINALLY, IF ANY READERS FOUND PROSTHETIC ARM. ANY SNAGS? It actually works really well, especially for mountaineering. It means THEMSELVES IN A SIMILAR SITUATION, WHAT that I’ve always got an axe with me now, no matter what the situa- WOULD YOUR ADVICE BE? tion. Between that and another tool I've got tremendous confi dence. Hah. Well. Drink your urine, that defi nitely kept me alive. After that, On the downside there’s reduced circulation in that arm, and it’s it’s all about courage, faith, and perseverance. It’s always possible to hard to keep it warm with no hand, so I have to wear little heaters go further and dig deeper than you think you can, whether we’re talk- when the temperature really drops. ing climbing or cutting off your hand. It’s there, you just have to take the chance, and get past the fear holding you back. It’s like being in an GOT ANY FUNKY ATTACHMENTS, LIKE SAY A ultra-race. You’re thinking, I can’t run another step, I can’t. And then BIG CAM FOR CRACKS? you do, and you know you’re OK. You can do this. You can keep going.|| No. I keep the axe attachment on for both rock climbing and moun- - Interview by Alex Messenger. taineering. I’m really a mountaineer anyway, for me rock climbing is just part of the skillset required to get the summit. My rock grade has peaked at about 5.7 now, but I’m fi ne with that. The axe does come Between a Rock and a Hard Place by Aron in handy on rock pitches though, I can torque in ultra small fi nger Ralston is published by Simon & Schuster cracks - that really annoys my friends. Plus I can still pull down on in hardback, £14.99 ISBN 0743263537. nubbins and the odd sloper, but I really can’t mantle - there’s just Available from all good bookshops. no way round that I'm afraid. WIN ONE OF FIVE COPIES ANY FUTURE CLIMBING PLANS? We've got fi ve copies to give away. Just fi nd I’m off to Aconcagua in January to climb the Glacier route, so could out the following: get quite cold, I’ll have to watch out for the stump on that one. Otherwise, I’m just psyched for climbing and hiking throughout the Q. What is the name of the canyon that States. I still love Colorado, but want to explore further afi eld. I’m Aron got stuck in? actually training to be an American Mountain Guide right now. Full certifi cation is still fi ve or so years away, but it’s a goal. Answers on a postcard or email [email protected].

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3333 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:28:4412:28:44 COMPETITIONS PPLASTICLASTIC PPANICANIC

GGraemeraeme AldersonAlderson ffeelseels tthehe ppressureressure aatt tthehe hhelmelm ooff tthehe WWorldorld YouthYouth ChampionshipsChampionships, Ratho.Ratho.

he World Youth Cham- Those that were at Ratho Adventure Cen- late in 2003 and more recently the BRYCS tre near Edinburgh in mid September will fi nal had to be relocated at the eleventh Tpionships (WYC) is the have seen the screaming hordes of young hour, but this was a new low. climbers, decked with fl ags from around They had gone bust, but all was not lost. biggest official climbing the world and the impressive displays of Reassurances trickled through from the of- stamina from competitors as young as 12. fi cial receivers, “It’ll be fi ne, we’re OK”. Just competition there is. More It’s been internationally acclaimed as the two months later, and these bean counters best youth competition yet, with Marco had changed their tune, “it’ll be fi ne, but competitors on more routes. Scolaris, president of the ICC (the world it’ll cost you £100,000”. Oh. Thanks. Things body for competition climbing), claiming looked bleak, but London had just announced More logistics and more that, “ Ratho has now set the standard for the Olympic bid, surely UK Sport would be headaches. And that’s all future competitions around the world.” But keen to help? And HBOS, the bankers owed it nearly didn’t happen at all. the cash had just announced record profi ts, without the uncertainty that I was sitting in a café in Fontainbleu when surely they wouldn’t want bad PR? There the text beeped through, “Ratho have gone must be a way of playing it. the venue will still exist on bust!”. I couldn’t believe it. Not this. Not Enter some unlikely saviours, fi rstly the now. Things had been looking shaky for Ramblers Association. Dave Morris, Direc- the day. some time ever since the centre had opened tor of the Ramblers in Scotland took up

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3344 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:29:3712:29:37 COMPETITIONSCOMPETITIONS PLASTIC PANIC

BRITISH RESULTS

Youth B (14-15) Male 6. Tyler Landman =35. Richard Winters =42. Martin Watson Youth B (14-15) Female 27. Bethany Monks 31. Hazel Findlay =33. Katy Whittaker 41. Charlotte Davies Youth A (16-17) Male 22. Tom Bolger 41. Jeff Landman 51. Tom Arnold 56. Tom Newman Youth A (16-17) Female =12. Jemma Powell Junior (18-19) Male 44. Ben West Junior (18-19) Female 31. Rosemary Shaw

MORE INFORMATION See www.thebmc.co.uk/wyc for full results and many more photos from the weekend.

(OPPOSITE) Maja Vidmar (Slovenia) on the gnarly feature route in the semi ﬁ nals.

(TOP) A male competitor staying focused on the tricky arete in the semis.

(INSETS CLOCKWISE). Flags, trophies, nail biting action and Tyler Landman - top placed Brit. All credit: Messenger/BMC

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the challenge and pursued it with typical Ramblers’ enthusiasm. The Ramblers' are MORE COMP ACTION FOR 2005 different from the BMC, tending to be more radical as they often have the law on their side when opening up Rights of Way. They By Steve Long are used to confrontation and seem to relish it. Dave set to work lobbying the Scottish Executive, Edinburgh City Council and HBOS. Secondly there was the mysterious Mr X. An ex-trader on the Hong Kong Stock exchange, X was on an independent mission to secure the required funding. And surely enough, within two weeks he’d done it, he’d raised the £100K. The next hurdle was the appointment of an interim management company at Ratho, and they didn’t mince their words, “given com- mercial free will the WYC would be cancelled, but given the political pressure we have to see if we can work it out”. But seeing if they could work it out wasn’t the concrete assur- ance I needed. A few hundred air fares from the North American teams had already been booked, plus others from 28 countries around the world. What would we tell them? With less than 28 days before the event the ﬁ nal go-ahead was given. What had made the difference? Why had the bean counters relented? We’ll probably never know. Was it the political pressure from the City Council and other bodies in Scotland? The threat of the Ramblers' getting behind doorstep pro- tests at every branch of HBOS in Scotland? Or simply the question of who was liable for the hundreds of airfares? All that was certain was that we had three weeks to cram in three Going for it at Climb '04. Credit: BMC months worth of work. But it ended happily, mainly due to a lot Outdoor ADVENTURE Show, Olympia, London of goodwill and hard work, mostly voluntary 18th – 20th February 2005 from around 60 people. The climbers had fun, made new friends from different countries, in The Outdoor Adventure Show is back at Olympia with the ﬁ nal round of the British some cases probably forging climbing friend- Bouldering Championships. Sponsored by Ford Ranger, the Adventure show ships that will last a lifetime. And me? Well, will also feature a whole host of fantastic speakers, retailers, brands and activities. If I learnt and aged a lot, and swear I’ll never you live in London or the Southeast, then this is the perfect place to shop, get new to do it again - until 2005 in Beijing.|| adventure ideas and be inspired.

TOTAL THANKS TO: All the volunteers who helped out over the The Outdoors Show, NEC, Birmingham weekend. The event wouldn't have been 18th – 20th March 2005 possible without you. If you are interested in volunteering for the Adventure Show The biggest show in the outdoor calendar is back - the Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show or the Outdoors Show in 2005, email 2005, featuring Climb 2005 (The BMC's Festival of Climbing) and the North Face [email protected]. Bouldering World Cup. This is the date to put in your diary if you want to see the world’s top boulderers; 2004 saw seven of the top ten world ranking climbers (male) SUPPORT FROM: and six of the top ten (female) climbers competeing on the Entre-Prises walls. And Baillie Gifford, Edinburgh City Council, 2005 is set to be even better with nearly 100 world class boulderers just itching to be Scottish Enterprise Edinburgh & Lothian, let loose, including Britain's Gareth Parry who'll have his eye on a podium place. Other SportScotland, Event Scotland, Beal, Petzl, great attractions include the Guiness World Record Dyno Competition, the and Entre-Prises. Berghaus Super Theatre hosting top-name speakers, and of course all the top brands and retailers will be there for that essential shopping.

Outdoors Show: Special Summit readers ticket offer!

Early Bird Ticket Offer: 2 for the price of 1!

If you book 2 adult tickets before the end of December 2004, you get two for one (i.e. two tickets for only £14). Call 0870 010 9086 to book and quote MSU. But hurry - this offer is only available until Friday 31st December 2004.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3366 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:33:0612:33:06 SKILLS the fridge BASICS 4:: By Steve Long

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 3388 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:38:1912:38:19 inter’s here. Cold, short days. WFingers numb. Most sane climbers retire indoors or crawl into an enor-

mous duvet jacket to weather it out

amongst the boulders. But there is an

alternative out there for hardy souls,

winter mountaineering.

Are you up for the challenge?

The real deal What do I need? Winter mountaineering can be one of the Gleaming and spiky, winter gear bears more hardest aspects of climbing to pick up - you than a passing resemblance to torture in- can’t just pop down the wall to learn, and struments. But don’t rush out and buy state mother nature will do her best to stall you at of the art toys just yet. As ever, try it fi rst, every turn. It's short days and long nights, - you may not even like it! along with strong winds and changeable conditions. You’ll need a fairly perverse mix- Good fi t ture of masochism, patience and stubborn Probably the most important pre-requisite determination to really enjoy this sport. On is a good pair of mountaineering boots. the other hand you’ll be rewarded by some These need to be proper four season boots; unforgettable experiences and the occasional waterproof and warm, with good ankle sup- day of dream conditions. port and a fully stiffened sole capable of taking crampons. Once you’ve got these, What is it? it’s time to beg, borrow, or buy some cram- What is winter mountaineering? Not a trick pons. General-purpose crampons with 12 question - is it hill walking in the snow, points are perfectly adequate for anything top of your boots. Any longer and it’s too or climbing overhanging frozen waterfalls, up to the very highest grades, and are more unwieldy for safe self-arrest. The pick should since there’s quite a difference. Winter versatile for walking than the rigid, clip-on be curved in a similar arc to the direction of mountaineering in the UK can be defi ned or monopoint models available. There are movement when hacking the ice. as any time or place when the ground is various attachment methods, but I prefer a On ice climbs, using two tools feels more covered with suffi cient snow or ice that an compromise strap system, with a cradle for secure, and for steep ice it’s essential unless ice axe and crampons are more of a help the toes and a clip for the heel. These fi t a you want to spend all day cutting steps. than a hindrance. This could be stepping wider range of boots and are less prone to Reversed curve picks are used for these up a grade I gully, balancing along an icy popping off when kicked awkwardly. tools, one of which will normally have a ridge, or wading through a deep bowl. The When you buy crampons, take your boots hammerhead for hammering pitons, and the boundaries between walking and climbing along and try to get the shop to fi t them other an adze for hacking steps. tend to blur when the snow falls. Especially - it’s important that they fi t securely. Make The ice tools should be fi tted with wrist when you consider that a good knowledge sure that the strap buckles are on the outside loops (leashes). The leash should fi t snugly of navigation and hazard awareness are es- edge of the boot and trim off any ends if around the wrist and give support when the sential, regardless of technical plans. they are over 15cms too long. Sooner or later axe is held properly, just above the spike. In this article we’re assuming that you’re you’ll trip over anything that dangles. Holding the middle of the shaft (known as already a climber and are looking to try some winter climbing on graded routes. Hill (TOP) Summit of Meall Glass, near Bridge Axes of Orchy. Credit: John James. (INSET) The walkers will need to beef up on the technical For Grade I routes, a single general purpose joys of winter. Credit: Steve Long. skills before tying on (maybe on a suitable ice axe is perfectly adequate. To select the (LEFT) Using tools to good effect in Scab- course) but don’t be put off since experience right length, hold the axe with your fi ngers bard Chimney, Stob Coire nan Lochain, of long mountain days and misty navigation cupping the pick and adze, and with a Glencoe. Credit: Cubby Images. See www. is actually a very solid grounding for winter straight arm the spike should just reach the climbing. cubbyimages.co.uk for more.

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adequate but you really need one that’s up to the job of navigating off the hill in the dark. Always slip in spare batteries and bulb. It gets cold and wet out there, especially when you’re belaying. Carry an additional warm layer that you can put on at the foot of the climb, and consider an extra fl eece or duvet for belaying on hard leads. Most important are a decent hat and gloves. Gloves need to be warm but dextrous enough to cope with placing gear and tying knots. Many climbers wear thin inner gloves for these jobs, and attach the outers to their wrists so that they can’t be dropped accidentally. Waterproof trousers and jacket are essential for most British conditions; it’s very rare for no surface water to be running. The trousers need to be worn under your harness, so they’re on for the duration of the climb. They’ll need to fi t on over the top of your boots, and a full-length zip is handy so that you can carefully put them on or off while wearing crampons. It’s diffi cult to avoid the occasional tear from crampons, so check them over for damage, and patch them up if necessary; I use a combination of duct tape and shoe repair glue. The best way to start your winter mountaineering career is to second a more experienced climber. Credit: Steve Long First routes The learning curve is steep, so enlist the services of an experienced winter climber “choking”) is ineffi cient and results in weak use damages the rock, but sometimes there to lead you up your fi rst climbs. Everything and wobbly swings. Futuristic leashless is no other choice, so it’s worth carrying feels very different in winter, so set aside axes are now on the market designed for a selection. The lightest and most useful some time for general practice in a safe competitions and the hardest routes - but type is the aptly named Knifeblade, a thin setting fi rst. Experiment with different foot avoid them, they are very easy to drop, with blade peg for otherwise unusable hairline and axe placements, and practice the all- disastrous consequences. cracks (1-3mm). Next up the scale are Lost Arrows (aka King Pins). These are fatter, important self-arrest. As far as grades go, it’s possible to second middle-grade ice climbs Rack it up heavier blades for wider cracks (4-7mm) and are available in various lengths. Then quite early in your winter career, but if you’re A normal climbing rack is generally a starting come Angles (aka Channels) for wide cracks taking several goes to get each placement point for most climbs, and this needs to be (15-25mm), which have a channel shape then try something easier rather than dam- supplemented with ice screws and pitons. designed to cam when placed correctly. Close age the climb. Take it easy on mixed climbs relatives of Angles are Leepers, and these too, it takes a while to get used to climbing Ice screws have a double channel Z profi le. with picks, and unlike ice the damage to the Most modern ice screws are like a giant When placing a peg you should be able to rocks from clumsy footwork is permanent. hollow wood screw with a handle. These are push it in to about halfway before needing to very strong when threaded into good ice so start hammering, although that will depend Technique buy the best you can afford. Choose ones on your adrenaline level. The best cracks are On frozen ground the more spikes you can get with at least four teeth, made from a tough generally horizontal, vertical cracks can be in, the better. Try to keep your feet spaced metal that’s not easily worn down. The best used but avoid those which open out just with a wide stance, otherwise the crampons models have chunky handles for one-handed below the peg placement, inviting it to ro- will catch on your other leg. On easier angled placement, and eyes that allow at least two tate and ping out. After placing a peg, test slopes, fl ex your ankles to allow all the spikes krabs to be clipped in at belays. it by letting the hammerhead bounce off it. to bite; stomp fi rmly. If only the outside Drive-in screws are also available. These If the hammer doesn’t bounce cleanly, the edge of a crampon touches ice it will usually have very fi ne teeth and are designed to peg is absorbing the energy by moving and skate off - edging is defi nitely out in ice be hammered straight into the ice, then is not to be trusted. climbing! This takes quite a bit of practice; screwed out for removal. They don’t have it’s a good idea to practice by scrambling up such good holding power, but can be use- a frozen stream, fl exing and rotating your ful if you get scared (never!) and need to Other equipment You’ll be showered with lumps of ice and ankles to maximise the crampons’ bite. pound something in quickly. The fi nal type rock, so a helmet is essential. Choose one As the ice steepens, you’ll need to change of screw is a warthog, resembling as it does that feels comfortable even over a hat, and from fl at footing to front pointing. This basi- a sharp, gnarled tusk. These tend to shatter replace it if it’s taken a heavy blow or aged cally entails kicking the toes straight at the ice but can be useful for sticking into turf beyond the manufacturer’s instructions. ice. There is an art to it, though. Keep your on mixed routes. You only get one head in life. For those ep- heels slightly lower than your toes; raised ics when night arrives before the summit, heels allow the rounded toe of your boot to Pegs you’ll need a head torch, so make sure the lever the front points out. A relatively low Pitons (pegs) need to be hammered into helmet can take one. As for head torches, heel allows two sets of spikes to bite – both cracks on some climbs for the belay. They in emergency situations a cheap LED may be the outward facing front points, and the fi rst should be used sparingly since repeated pair of vertical spikes.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4400 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:42:5312:42:53 SKILLS walk this way

The snow doesn't care if you're a walker or a climber. Either way you need mountain sense in winter - Mal Creasey from MLTE has got some tips for walking the white way:

1. Keep your thumb on the map 4. With so many variables to didn’t feel right”. We'd intended uninteresting days out, but to mark your last known loca- deal with in winter like short to drop down from the summit simply think about the weather, tion. This saves scouring the days, extra kit, snow, ice and towards the abseil posts (no underfoot conditions, and skill map every time you check your strong winds, it’s worth keep- longer in place) but without levels within the team before position. And if you’re involved ing track of your progress. noticing had drifted way too heading out. in critical route fi nding you're From lunchtime onwards you far right. In this case it only then free to use the greatest need to be asking at least two cost us about ten minutes and 9. Coming off a big snowy aid to navigation ever - your questions; What time does it some unwanted toil but it was a mountain with a storm bearing eyes. The number of times get dark? Can I at least get to hasty reminder that a combined down can do funny things to I’ve seen ML candidates walk a decent path by then? It’s no experience of 40 odd years on people. However one of the straight past an objective sim- use plodding on then panicking the Scottish hills in winter is no least funny was when a cli- ply because they’ve had their at teatime. Have a contingency reason for complacency. ent put his gloves down on eyes glued to the map... plan, or at least a cut off time the ground and the other his to start heading back down. 7. When winter hill walking goretex salopettes, and all my 2. Thumbs are no use if the (mountaineering?) most prob- best goalkeeping skills were map has disappeared into the 5. Don’t ignore raised foot- lems occur in descent. Steep to no avail. Diving around in mist. But I’ve never got on with prints. These formations are corrie headwalls or ridges may that spot did little to improve map cases so in winter I take a the result of someone walking not be a problem in summer but my nerves and the situation cut down map. It folds smaller on fairly deep snow and set- when covered in snow they are got worse as the day wore on. and you’re likely to keep it in tling it under their boots. Since a different proposition, and try- Eventually, after several hours your pocket instead of the sac. then the wind has picked up, ing to fi nd the actual edge can we all got down but it could Punch a hole in the corner and removed the surrounding snow be diffi cult. But even if there have been much worse. It’s tie it on to a zip toggle too. I and re-deposited it elsewhere. are only two of you, with about strange how many epics are remember being out one night This means that even if it hasn’t ten metres of rope you can cre- born out of silly little mistakes. with an old Irish friend of mine snowed for several days leeward ate a good deal of security. If Get into the habit of stashing whose map disappeared into the slopes could have a serious one goes over the edge, they're gloves inside your jacket and depths of a dark Scottish bliz- avalanche danger. Their snow unlikely to pull the second never expect things to stay zard. Amazingly an hour later, cover could consist of wind- over, and with more people it where you put them! on the other side of the hill, damaged crystals that squeak becomes very solid. the map reappeared and lodged under the boots and have little 10. If it runs on a battery, neatly into his hand. The moral? bondage with each other. This 8. Rationalise what you in- it’s more likely to go belly up Hang on to your map, tie it on, windslab is a dull white opaque tend to get out of the day. I’ve because it’s got wet, cold, or or take an Irishman for luck. colour, and is defi nitely to be seen less experienced groups misted up. GPS and mobile avoided. or individuals subject to peer phones are all fi ne as additional 3. Anticipate the difficult pressure and ‘sucked in’ so they aids, but they’re no replacement navigational sections and work 6. Experienced mountaineers fi nish up on routes or in areas for a map, compass, and solid out bearings beforehand so should really be alert to what at the limit of their abilities. It navigational skills. that once you arrive at that the ground is doing. But would only take one more thing point, it’s simply a matter of some years ago a friend and to delay or push the day techni- (ABOVE) Where are we? An- setting the compass. I note any I were coming down off Ben cally beyond them and they’d swer: near the summit of Meall critical bearings in the back of Nevis and were chatting away be in trouble. That doesn’t na Ceapraichean, Ullapool. guidebooks, but you could use in reasonable weather when we mean you should only go and Credit: John James. the margins of the map. both suddenly realised that “it have super safe and possibly

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4411 008/11/20048/11/2004 12:44:0912:44:09 SKILLS

Meanwhile, you’ll be swinging the axes metamorphoses into ice through a process into the ice. Again the technique is best called fi rnifi cation. This can provide really varied according to the angle. On low angled easy placements, which is rather fortunate, soft ice, it’s often preferable to cup your as it doesn’t hold ice screws very well. hand over the head of the axe and push it Mixed climbing takes a lot of learning into the ice at waist level, using it mainly too. Tools can be jammed in tapering cracks, for support. On harder and steeper ice, the torqued in wider ones, or dug into frozen tools need to be swung above the head to turf. Sometimes it’s easier to let them dangle gain purchase. Hold the shaft just above the on their leashes and grab the rock with your spike, and swing the pick into the ice. For hands, but only for the odd move if you want a general-purpose curved pick, this entails to call it a winter ascent. Credit: Steve Long. a simple swing. With a technical “reverse- curved” pick you will need to fl ick the wrist Hazards Grades downward just before impact to get the best Part of the challenge of winter climbing is Just when you thought you had grades bite. This takes a bit of practice, so get back learning to manage the hazards. The conse- mastered, here’s another system. Winter on to that frozen stream, or fi nd an icy wall quence of an unexpected slide on snow or routes are graded for diffi culty and with a safe landing zone below it. ice can be very serious, so learn to kick and commitment in a similar way to rock. When using two tools, it’s normal to place cut steps, and practice ice axe braking in a The overall grade, comparable to the both picks at a comfortable reach, shoulder safe hollow with a gentle, snowy run out. adjectival rock grade is given in a ro- width apart. It’s possible to rest for a mo- Snow is notoriously prone to avalanche, so man numeral, currently from I to X. ment with straight arms, letting the wrist learn as much as you can to spot the warn- loops take much of your weight. Then the ing signs, and pay close attention to safety I - The easiest climbs. Straightforward feet are stepped up - try to use small inter- bulletins. Avalanche safety is a complex art, snow slopes upto 50 degrees, or simple mediate steps, and don’t forget to keep those and attending a course could be a valuable scrambles on snowed up rock. heels low. Once the elbows are bent to about investment. right angles, it’s possible to carefully remove II - Steeper sections with ice but still one pick by levering the shaft towards the ice normally less than vertical. and away again. The thigh muscles are used Coping with winter to straighten the legs and the pick is swung Winter conditions are notoriously fi ckle, so III + Increasingly long sections of steep into the ice again at a comfortable reach. it’s a good plan to maintain a reasonable climbing and commitment. Once securely placed, the other tool can be level of fi tness to grab those routes as and removed from the ice and then placed level when they freeze. For climbing in Britain, Above III, individual crux pitches are with the other. This is a steady and secure you’ll have to walk for at least an hour unless also graded. For example, Point Five way to climb. It’s also possible on very good conditions are exceptionally good, so regular Gully at V,5 is a benchmark V, while a or easy ice to simply alternate pick place- hill walking is a good start. Regular sessions well protected hard mixed climb might ments one above the other, like thugging up at a wall will help keep your body tuned be graded V,7. Zero Gully is less techni- a ladder. This is harder to recover from if an into climbing movement, and a few pull-ups cal but serious so gets V,4. axe rips out, and as British ice tends to be certainly won’t do any harm. If you’re lucky relatively brittle, this style of climbing is enough to live near an indoor ice wall, or generally more appropriate overseas. dry tooling facilities, then make use of them. Mix it up Follow weather forecasts carefully and be Mixed climbs are predominantly rock Of course, real ice has bulges, pillars ready to make good use of the high pressure with varying degrees of ice coating. To and fl utings, so you can’t just hack away when it arrives. Phone around, check the web qualify as a mixed route plenty of snow anywhere that suits you. However this and do the research. And fi nally, don’t be and ice should be covering any ledges, basic idea will stand you in good stead as stubborn, be prepared to change your plans otherwise you’ll be “dry tooling”. This you experiment. For mixed climbs, anything - a day spent in the café is more fun than style of climbing is inappropriate at goes, really. The style of movement is more being buried under sliding snow. most UK venues as it causes damage. akin to rock climbing, with the signifi cant Controversially, some mixed climbs look difference that vegetation can provide handy That completes our brief insight into winter black when viewed from below and fresh additional holds. climbing. It’s just fi ngers crossed for good con- arguments rage each winter. ditions now, and look out for the fi nal part of Good placements this series on learning to climb - self rescue. || Winter ethics Whilst the technique of moving on ice is Ethics are obtuse for winter, but the un- actually quite straightforward, the tricky bit derlying theme is the same as for rock. is judging where to place a pick to economise The tools are regarded as free climbing effort, and knowing when to trust a place- Steve Long works for Plas y Brenin, the assistance. Hooking into protection is ment. On good ice you’ll see experienced National Mountain Centre. PyB run a range not allowed, just like pulling on runners climbers achieving a good placement with of winter courses, from walking to ice climb- is regarded as cheating in summer. The the fi rst blow. This requires plenty of experi- ing. See www.pyb.co.uk. use of wrist loops is generally accepted, ence, which is why it’s best to follow plenty however clipping a leash into your har- of climbs before venturing onto your fi rst OTHER RESOURCES ness and hanging from that is regarded leads. The ice gives clues to its consistency www.sais.gov.uk as a rest point and therefore an impure through shape and colour. For example it’s Sport Scotland Avalanche Information ascent. These distinctions may seem often easier to get a good placement in www.scotmountain.co.uk a bit contrived, but they seem to fi t the groin between two fl utings. Grey ice is Mountain Innovations email updates reasonably within the free climbing more aerated than blue ice so less prone to www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk philosophy and evolve as equipment shattering. On the other hand, granulated Conditions updates from Alan Kimber and standards develop. grey ice is generally fragile. The easiest fi rst time placements are generally in white (snow) ice. This is formed over time as snow

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4422 008/11/20048/11/2004 15:47:0115:47:01 ICE CLIMBINGICE CLIMBING

eeasyiceasyice There are two ways of hitting ice this winter, the hard way and the easyjet way. You can keep those long drives north - Rich Cross will be checking in.

or many people, includ- the drive to Scotland, leaving plenty of time Timing for fun in the sun. And best of all, most of In some very good years the season will Fing myself, the Scottish the climbing takes place in fantastic yet start in November, but December is more accessible settings on icefalls draining the usual with the most reliable conditions found winter experience is an es- sides of alpine valleys. You don’t even have in January and February. With March come to walk far! But if you’re only used to the longer sunny days and rising temperatures sential part of climbing. It Scottish scene you’ll fi nd that the routes and turning the frozen playgrounds into mush, alpine arena itself presents some unfamiliar provides an endless amount but choose a high north facing slope in a challenges - so just what do you need to good season and you can still climb right know before you go? of adventure and hilarity, all into April. Just as we have our Scottish conditions websites, so the Alps have their accessible in a wild weekend Location, location own for icefalls, alpinism and ski-moun- In winter the European Alps are riddled taineering. A very useful one is found at away from work. with frozen waterfalls providing hundreds http://alpinisme.camptocamp.com. of excellent climbing areas. But several in But this comes at a price; endless driving, particular have gained worldwide acclaim How does it compare? dossing in ditches, sleep deprivation. Must due to their combination of quality climb- Its diffi cult to make direct comparisons since you always suffer so for the sport you love? ing and ease of access. Chamonix, Cogne very few routes in Scotland compare to the Is there another option? Well, the answer is (through the Mont Blanc tunnel into Italy), sustained fl ows of water ice found overseas, a defi nite yes. and Kandersteg (just up the Rhone valley) and the ice quality is often very different. In Easyjet culture combined with reliable are all within striking distance of Geneva, an average season Scottish ice is predomi- conditions and accessible information means whilst La Grave and the Argentiere La Besse nantly snow ice, whilst European waterfall that the euro icefall scene is becoming ever region are on the fringes of the Ecrin Na- ice is, well, water ice. This is often harder more popular with us Brits. Not too surpris- tional Park accessible from Lyon or Turin. and more brittle meaning you’ve got to fi ght ing when you consider that the average trip There are of course other options for those for your placements. Temperature plays a big from London to the continent is faster than with more loot and time; North America, part though and warmer days can gift you Scandinavia, and the aptly named Iceland, godlike chewy fi rst time placements. (TOP/RIGHT) Euro ice action La Grave but these are usually out of the equation for European water ice grades range from 1-7 style. Both credit: Rich Cross. a weekend hit.

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and are offset from the Scottish grades by roughly one notch, hence a solid technical 5 in Scotland equates roughly to grade 4. On easier routes the good weather and chewy ice make life feel great, but as soon as you hit Euro 5 you’re on Scottish 6 terrain and will need a cool head plus total conﬁ dence in your tools.

All the gear The ice gear revolution has brought the barriers of steep ice climbing crashing down. The technology now exists to make life easier, and give greater security in ever more impressive situations - which is what it’s all about. The modern ice fall climber will wear stiff yet comfortable leather boots (e.g. La Sportiva Nepal Extremes), or lightweight plastics (e.g. Scarpa Alphas), to reduce weight and increase sensitivity, and lashed to these a pair of crampons with long vertically orientated front points (e.g. Grivel G14s or DMM Terminators) for deeper, more secure penetration. Hands are kept warm by dextrous gloves for easy screw placement and fi rm grip, with padding to protect the knuckles from hard ice bulges and shoddy technique. At the business end it’s two well sharpened technical tools with curved shafts that offer a comfortable grip position, and give easyice clearance on bulging or caulifl owered ice (e.g. Grivel Tech Wings, DMM Xenos). For protection modern screws are now stronger and easier to place thanks to precision- engineered teeth and crank handles (e.g. Charlet Moser Laser Sonics, Black Diamond Express). Modern skinny ropes complete the set up by providing very low impact forces in a fall, reducing the shock load on any screws placed in poor ice. Your Scottish winter helmet and clothing system is fi ne though, no need to change that, and stick with your old hardware if you fancy - it just won’t be quite as much fun.

Looking after yourself The alpine arena presents its own special challenges, and that wonderful sunshine can also be your worst enemy! Late in the season, especially on south facing routes, the sun can transform ice from the brittle cold of early morning, through brilliant and chewy, to a waterfall hell all within a few hours. Conditions awareness becomes even more important later in the season when the sun causes entire routes to collapse, so pay close attention to the aspect of your climb! Early starts are still essential. Not only for conditions but to be the ﬁ rst on the route to avoid falling ice from parties above, especially on gully routes. It’s best to avoid climbing under other teams if possible, but if it’s unavoidable then belay well out of the ﬁ ring line to give some protection. Most routes are fed by springs, streams, snowmelt or a combination of each, so it should come as no surprise that the catch-

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4455 008/11/20048/11/2004 13:55:5613:55:56 ICE CLIMBING

ment area can be avalanche prone. Large out your partner follows, and before you know snow bowls above climbs are quite common it, you’ve reached your sacks. Now it’s time and can create huge avalanches after bad for a vin chaud and pizza in the bar, then weather. In north facing bowls that see maybe another route after lunch? Or maybe little sun these conditions can persist for a not, maybe you’ll save strength so you can while, so always seek local information on try some leashless action tomorrow." avalanche conditions and weather history. If in any doubt choose a different route. See you out there So it's not such a mysterious sport after all, What's it like? this Euro ice climbing game. Here's fi ngers Basic ice technique is well covered by Steve crossed for a great season, both here and Long on page 38, but for ice cragging it’s abroad, but if it's raining in Scotland you worth going into a few specifi c details. So know where I'll be! || close your eyes, stick your fi ngers in the deep freeze and imagine - this is how it works: Rich Cross is a UIAGM guide and co-di- rectors of Alpine Guides International. For "Your belayer is snuggled in her belay a full range of ice fall courses in France, jacket, well out of the fi ring line to the side Canada and the Lofoten Islands visit www. of the fl ow. You start the pitch and climb alpine-guides.com. smoothly with accurate kicks, using features Continental Style! Credit: Cross. on the steep ice like a rock climber to ease your calves, and keep the weight off your Abalakov threads SCOTTISH STYLE: arms. Holding your tools at the very bottom, Abalakov threads are a secure, easy you swing back from the shoulder, and with and inexpensive “V” thread abseil four large climbers, rucksacks, Take a well-aimed fl ick of the wrist get fi rst time anchor for ice climbing. Named after sharp objects and assorted bags of sticks in hollows of softer white ice. Lost in their Russian mountaineer inventor, shopping, insert into a ten year old concentration, the ground recedes; it’s time they have become popular at ice crags Fiat Uno. to place a screw. all over the world. From below you spy an ice boss, climb up Drive through the sodden night for to it and stand on it with one foot sideways, eight hours to the hopefully icy waste- the other bridged to a fl uting - perfect. You lands of the North. Techno and Irn-Bru drive your hammer directly above your head, obligatoire. Don't crash. to prevent barn dooring, and hang straight- armed from it, then clear the rotten ice sur- Sleep in a suitable dry, tramp free spot face at waist level with the adze in your right for three hours. Ignore rain. hand. Quickly, you chip a small hole to act as a starter for the screw, then place the axe at Throw yourself at as much climbable head level and release the clipper leash, free- snow/ice/rock/grass as you can fi nd, ing your hand in seconds. You unclip a screw interspersed with fi sh and chip suppers, from the ice racking system (a large upside pints of Heavy, deep-fried Mars Bars, down mounted biner) on your harness and jab and the occasional once in a lifetime it in the hole at waist level to get some weight experience. behind it, two turns and its seated, so you fl ick the handle out and spin it in to the hilt. On clean solid ice drive in a screw at Squeeze back into Fiat Uno for eight A quickdraw comes easily off the bandolier at 45 degrees to the surface, then remove. hours. Don't crash. your chest and the runners on, clipper leash 10cm away make another well-aimed back on your axe and ready to go. This takes hole at the same angle with the same LE STYLE CONTINENTAL just two minutes and your confi dence is soar- screw, and the two hopefully meet to ing further. Time to move on. form a "V" thread in the ice. After Jump aboard your cheap fl ight to Soon you’re at the belay - a well-trodden blowing down the holes to clear debris, Geneva or Lyon. Smuggling of excess ledge at the side of the ice fl ow, and pleased reach for your “get out of jail free kit”. weight may be required. to fi nd the bolts promised in the guidebook. This is usually a small stuff sack con- The tat looks old so you equalise the bolts taining 8mm cord, a sharp knife and a Take a ski transfer bus to your resort with a sling and clip in. A magic plate goes on wire threader made from a coat hanger. of choice and book into a comfortable to the sling so you can do a direct belay, relax, Chop off about 80cm of cord and using hotel. When did we get so soft? take in the view and have a quick nibble whilst the threader hook it and pull it through bringing up your mate. Several pitches later, the V, tying a double fi sherman’s to form Walk for 20 minutes to the nearest the sun kisses your face as you pull over the a bomb proof thread. frozen waterfall, and climb several fi nal bulge - it’s the fi rst rays of the morning If you miss lining up the holes fi nd pitches of immaculate chewy ice under and the top of a brilliant route. another spot a few feet away and try deep blue alpine skies. There’s a path descending through the again. Don’t reuse your mistakes. trees, but you have two ropes, and decide its Resident Abalakovs may be as safe Retire for cold Stella, red wine and quicker to abseil straight back to your sacks to use if they look as good as a freshly local cuisine, while the stars come out at the foot of the route. The fi nal belay bolts placed one, and you are absolutely sure and the cold night air frosts the bar have been knocked fl at by a long gone ava- what you’re clipping into. Use your own windows. lanche, so you decide to make the fi rst drop judgement and if in doubt place a new from an Abalakov thread. With a screw for one. Remember that whilst Abalakovs Repeat until your arms fall off. back up you set off fi rst, comfortably reaching are cheap, your life isn’t. Always use the bolts of the next stance. Taking the screw a back up.

46 36

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4466 008/11/20048/11/2004 13:56:5713:56:57 narly ascents, Grotten snow, politics and throwing dogs down gullies. Just what have this year's Mount Everest Foundation 04 (MEF) and BMC/UK Sport EXPEDITIONS funded trips been up to?

ALASKA

Dusk till Dawn Stuart McAleese, Dai Lampard and Twid Turner headed to the Kichatna Spires area hoping for the ﬁ rst ascent of Middle Triple Peak (2693m). A continuous rain of car sized boulders at the glacier snout put paid to that thought, so it was off to the East Wall of Mt. Nevermore (2469m) for a new 1000m route, Perfect Storm - the name reﬂ ecting the less than ideal conditions encountered.

Mount Bradley The steep granite south face of Mt. Bradley (2775m) rises sharply from the Ruth Glacier in Central Alaska. So far the only winter Mount Kennedy route on it is The Gift by Mark Twight, one Mt Kennedy (4234m) is a beautiful of the hardest technical routes in Alaska. mountain in the Yukon, with Himalayan Sam Chinnery and Andy Sharpe originally sized walls and ridges. Although Jack intended to climb a mixed couloir on the Tackle and Jack Roberts attempted its face, but excess snow stopped that, so it was 1800m North Face in 1995, they had to time for plan B. This was an amazing 1600m abort due to a dropped crampon. The line on the South East Buttress of Mt. Dickey team of Rich Cross and Jon Bracey were (2909m), which they succeeded in climbing luckier; slick organisation and good after three days of sustained hard ice. The weather saw them achieve their objec- result was Snowpatrol at VI, WI5+. tive within a week of leaving the UK. Mount Dickey Highlight: Guy Willett and Owen Samuel planned a new The manic high speed of it all. Within a laser-line 1600m route on the east face of week of leaving the UK we were on top Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge of of Kennedy, with nearly 2000m of cold, Central Alaska. Unfortunately, before even harsh North Face behind us. Then a few setting foot on the mountain, Guy injured days later we were out of the mountains his back, and had to return home. Fortu- and cranking perfect granite cracks in nately, two Americans took pity on Owen, the sun at Squamish. Life doesn’t get and they teamed up to repeat the new line any better than that. of Snowpatrol.

Lowpoint: Free Knowledge A very long 2.5 days with not a lot of Ian Parnell and John Varco had two objec- food waiting on the Cathedral glacier for tives in mind when they headed for Alaska; a pick up, having descended on the far to make the ﬁ rst free ascent of The Knowl- side of the mountain edge on the North Buttress of Mt. Hunter (4437m), and a new route on the South East We succeeded because: Face of Mt Foraker (5300m). Unfortunately, (TOP) The impressive looking North West A key part of being a good alpinist/ they experienced unusually warm weather Face of Mount Kennedy. mountaineer is that you need to be and achieved almost no climbing. Disaster! (BOTTOM) Anyone for vertical camping? lucky! That means the ability to attract Rich Cross looking forward to a luxury night good weather and conditions. Which during the high speed alpine style ascent. well...we managed to do! This tent is designed either to be used with cut seats like here or in the more normal Next years plans: horizontal format. Both credit: Jon Bracey. Are strictly conﬁ dential!

48 36

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4488 008/11/20048/11/2004 14:06:4514:06:45 EXPEDITIONS

SOUTH AMERICA Fin del Mundo The mountains of Tierra del Fuego, Four Go Free although easily accessible have not Despite previous experience of Patagonian received much attention from climbers weather, a team of stalwarts led by Twid until recently. Colin Wells with Christine Turner returned hoping to make the fi rst Goulding planned to make up for that ascent of a 1300m free climb on the massive by visiting the hinterland to explore East Face of Cerro Fitz Roy (3405m). A base and climb new winter and mixed routes camp was soon established but during the including the unclimbed South Face of next four weeks they only had eight hours of Monte Vinciguerra (1450m). However a good weather. Talk about cabin fever. late slimming of the team down to just two made this impractical, so they turned Return to Cerro Torre to the fi rst ascent of the North East Ridge Whether Maestri and Egger did climb Cerro of Cerro Bonete (1118m). Torre (3102m) in 1959 is a question that continues to haunt climbers, and this was Highlight: another team hoping to fi nd the answer. Befriending a friendly dog on way to However, with warmer than usual weather, on attempt a new gully line. both occasions that they went to the bottom (ABOVE) The dog prepares for his gully of the North Face, Leo Houlding, Kevin Thaw Lowpoint: debut. Credit: Colin Wells. and Cedar Wright were greeted with falling Having to throw said friendly dog back ice and more, so they looked elsewhere. This down the gully after it had followed us Was it any good? resulted in the fi rst ascent of Cerro Pereyara up the fi rst two pitches. Not half mate. and a new route on the West Face of De La Ese which they smoothly named The Thaws We went because: With hindsight we would have: not Houlding Wright . Anything to get away from a British Avoided Quilmes Lager - “Quite possibly summer. the Worst Lager in the World”. Chacraraju Este, en Los Andes Al Powell and Nick Bullock's original plan was to make the fi rst ascent of the East Face of Chacraraju Este (6001m) in the Cordillera UCL Quimsa Cruz Blanca. However, on arrival, they learned Sarah Griffi n and team headed to the that the route had already been climbed Cordillera Quimsa Cruz to clear up some in 2000 by two Slovenians (killed in Nepal confusion over peak names and ascents before reporting their success). The South in the area, as well as bagging some new East Ridge was still unclimbed, but when two lines themselves. very scary days on loose rock and wobbly overhanging ice had only got them two- Highlight: thirds of the way up, retreat was deemed Climbing the fi rst peak. After all the plan- preferable to death. Powell then sensibly ning, hassle and hardship, the moment returned to UK whilst Bullock decided on a you hit the summit you slump down ex- solo attempt of the Jaeger line on the South hausted with a breathtaking 360 degree (ABOVE) Aiming to clear up the confusion Face. At Pisco base camp he met Adam panorama and remember exactly why you in Quimsa Cruz. Credit: Sarah Griffi n. Kovach from Sweden who had exactly the did it all in the fi rst place! same aim, so they agreed to simu-solo to Best and worst food: make best use of the very limited gear that Lowpoint: Frankfurters. On both counts. Few other they both carried. They climbed the route in Arriving at the Huayna Potosi hut foods brought the same amount of joy as a 20 hour push, adding a three pitch direct (4750m) for a premature acclimatisation a greasy frankfurter wrapped in fried bread fi nish called Running on Empty. trip: Two cases of vomiting and nausea, and smothered in ketchup. And few others one case of staying in bed for the entire brought such groans when it was encounted Cordillera Blanca duration and another not getting up for the fi fth consecutive dinner. The Cordillera Blanca of Peru is one of the the next morning; headaches all round. most popular areas of the Andes, but still of- Two of us were fi ne however - God bless We wish we’d packed: fers scope for keen explorers. Tony Barton’s Diamox. Less frankfurters. team set out with several objectives in mind in the Quebradas Santa Cruz, but experienced bad weather for much of the time. However, their sights set on the unclimbed West Face on the western side of Kangerdluarssuak they did succeed in the fi rst ascent of the of Nevado Rondoy and the fi rst British ascent Fjord on Pamiagdluk Island where they North Face of Nevada Parón (5600m). of Southern Comfort on the South Face of established basecamp. Weather conditions Siula Grande. However they arrived to fi nd were unsettled with only two wholly fi ne Anglo-Scottish Vilcanota these routes heavily stripped of snow and ice days, but the team established a number of Dave Wilkinson’s team experienced “the best so turned their attention elsewhere. They mountaineering routes up to AD+ and rock weather ever seen” but were still stumped by made ascents of Urus Este, Paron Sur and routes up to E3. an unseasonably heavy fall of snow in June. Ishinca at grades between PD and AD+. Original objectives had to be abandoned but Rucksack: Watkins Mountains several other fi rst ascents were made. GREENLAND A stripped down club expedition visited the Watkins Mountains of East Greenland aiming Scottish Cordillera Huayhuash KMC Pamiagdluk Island to climb the country’s highest peak, Gunn- The six person team led by Iain Rudkin had A monster club team headed to an inlet bjørn Fjeld (3693m) and make fi rst ascents

36 49

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 4499 008/11/20048/11/2004 14:07:4814:07:48 EXPEDITIONS

David Evans, Dave Hollinger and Andy Sharpe hoped to climb a new route on the North Spur or the West Ridge of Siguniang itself. However, bad weather intervened, and their attempt on the former was terminated when they met wet loose snow at 5200m. Similar conditions thwarted attempts on nearby peaks, but they did tick both Camel Peaks certaintnto our bas (c5510m) – snowy mountains with easy mixed ground.

Gongga East Another team to Sichuan. Angela Benham, Chris Drinkwater, Titch Kavanagh and Andrew Phillips planned to explore glaciers in the Daxue Shan mountains and make the fi rst ascent of the highest peak, Gongga East the fi rst ascent of the North West Ridge, Qomo Lhari, China (6618m). However, shortly before leaving UK but they were forced to abandon it at Qomo Lhari (7326m) in Yadong County, they learned that although never offi cially 6000m due to strong winds. However South Tibet was fi rst climbed in 1937 by reported, a Korean team had climbed the they then managed to make a very rapid Spencer Chapman, but did not receive its peak in 2000. Nevertheless, they decided ascent to the summit via the South Ridge, second ascent until 1970 and its third in to continue with it as their primary aim, and the peak’s fi rst alpine style ascent. 1996. Julie-Ann Clyma and Roger Payne’s try a fi rst ascent from the north. Several application to climb it was rejected in 2002, attempts were made but weather and rot- (TOP) West face of Chomolhari with the and although offered in 2003 was rescinded ten conditions forced them to abandon the NW ridge on the left and the South Ridge at the eleventh hour. But it was third time climb at 5400m. (climbed) on the right. Credit: Payne. lucky for this pair. Their plan was to make Big-Wall of China John and Anne Arran were also attracted to of other nearby peaks. However, on arrival, team had to cross the Rotang La, blocked by the delights of Sichuan, but their aim being they were disappointed to fi nd that a Royal the heaviest snow in 25 years. Fortunately to explore and make fi rst ascents of big walls Navy team had just scooped most of their the pass had to be opened for the delivery and rock spires in the Mt Siguniang National identifi ed objectives ...gutted! Nevertheless, of election papers to a number of remote Park. Unfortunately, July and August are the they cleaned up on a few peaks. settlements, so the game was still on. To wettest months of the year. Nevertheless, avoid getting tied up in bureaucracy the they were successful in making fi rst ascents Torssukatak Fjord expedition aims were simply ‘exploration of two peaks – Niuxim Shan or Heart of Cow Leanne Callaghan and others headed to and rock-climbing’. Concentrating on the Peak, (4942m) and Mi Mi Shan, (5016m) Pamiagdluk Island hoping to make the fi rst Jangpar Glacier, not previously visited, Gra- - from the Suang Qiao Gou Valley with techni- ascent of The Baron (Pt 1340m) by several ham Little and Jim Lowther climbed a minor cal climbing up to E5. Future visitors should new free routes and possibly attempt the top - Christina Peak (5420m) - from which be aware that the best months for rock are unclimbed Pt 1303m on the western shore they were able to survey the surrounding March and October, and January for ice. of Torssuakatak Fjord. Six new routes were mountain complex with its vast rock walls. climbed, with grades ranging up to E4. They also climbed Lammergeier Spire on CENTRAL ASIA excellent rock at D. Meanwhile Brian Davison Greenland Arctic Challenge and Kevin Kelly attempted a mixed route but Zaalaiskiy Ridge This was the fi rst half of an expedition had to abort due to a dropped sack. Once again, Paul Hudson’s team selected a to explore the coastal regions of Western relatively unfrequented area for this explor- Greenland. The trip will continue again Kalanka North Face atory expedition - the Zaalaiskiy range in the next summer. Bob Shepton and his crew of The squad of Sandy Allan and John Lyall far south of Kyrgyzstan. They had originally six made a diffi cult crossing of the North (UK) and Carlos Buhler (US) trotted off planned to operate from the Nura Glacier, Atlantic from Scotland in late June. Through to the North Face of Kalanka (6991m) in but went to the even less visited western July and August the team made 12 ascents the Garwhal Himalaya. Unfortunately bu- end of the range, close to the Tajikistan around Kangerdluarssugssauq Fjord and fur- reaucracy and heavy snow delayed them border, where they climbed ten snow peaks ther north on the Akuliarusinguaq Peninsula, by seven days. The snow continued after up to 5513m. Although nothing was known ten of which they believe to be fi rst ascents. they had established their camp which was about previous ascents, several summits were Following some changes to the crew the promptly destroyed by a serac fall. At this adorned with “piles of stones that did not team sailed further north where two team stage Buhler left the expedition, but the two look natural” so probably only three were members were able to make a three day ski Brits continued heading up, and found a site fi rst ascents. traverse of the length of Herbert Island. Back for Camp 2 at 6180m. Then the snow hit at Upernavik Bob intends to spend a very them again, with avalanches making further Scottish Kyzyl Asker chilly winter in his yacht in the ice before progress impossible. Es Tresidder, Pete Benson, Matt Halls, Guy exploration resumes next summer. Robertson and Robin Thomas returned, hop- CHINA & TIBET ing to make the fi rst ascent of the South INDIA East Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m). However, British Qionglai an extreme thaw had virtually eliminated Miyar Mick Fowler’s success on Siguniang (6250m) the dramatic central ice line, so they turned Possibly the fi rst time that local politics in 2002 alerted other British mountaineers their attention to climbing fi ve new routes has come to the aid of an expedition! To to the scope offered by the Qionglai Range on other peaks in the area. reach the Miyar Glacier in Western Lahul this of Sichuan Province, and Tom Chamberlain,

50 36

447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 5500 008/11/20048/11/2004 14:08:4014:08:40 Kyrgyzstan - Djungart With several previous visits to Kyrgyzstan behind her, Ingrid Crossland returned with Graham Sutton for the ﬁ rst climbing expedition to visit the Djungart area of the Kokshaal Too. Access to the area has only recently become a realistic possibility with the establishment of a seasonal helicopter base at Maida Adyr. However the weather was exceptionally warm for the time of year, with rain falling as high as 4000m, so little climbing was possible.

MIDDLE EAST

Western Hajar Traverse Although small groups of British enthusiasts British West Sichuan have been visiting the mountains of Oman The objective of Martin Scott, Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood since Sir Wilfred Thesiger in 1947, this was and Bill Thurston was Haizi Shan (5820m), in an area of the fi rst application for support submitted to West Sichuan not previously visited by British climbers and the MEF. Encouraged by Sir Wilfred shortly never actually offi cially attempted by anyone. Starting at before he died, this team of Geoff Hornby the far left of the North West Face, their route led via a long with Susie Sammut, Mark Turnbull and David ridge to the North summit (c.5710m), which was reached by Wallis planned to make a continuous SW to Cohen and Isherwood. Although much of the long traverse NW 600 km traverse of the Western Hajar to the main summit was also climbed, time ran out with range from the base of the Wahiba Sands to 250m still to go. Al Dawadi on the Indian Ocean by camel, foot and bike, climbing new routes on each Highlight: of the major rock faces along the way. Wallis Reaching an unclimbed summit on a fi ne day after some had to leave the team part way, but despite enjoyable climbing and three days of bad weather. continuous new rules imposed by Omani government offi cials and "more foot blisters Lowpoint: than you could throw a stick at", the other Finding that the tins of chicken that we bought contained three managed to achieve their goal. only chicken heads and claws - apparently a delicacy, but not to us. Cancelled: We met: Spaghetti Mountain Miyar Nala, Teng Kang Loads of fantastic Tibetan nomads who had never seen Poche North Pillar, British Xiashe North Face, Westerners - not unexpected given the region. Lobsang 2004. We say: Ongoing: Tibet is a very expensive area to visit - the BMC/MEF funding British Hispar Sar, British Aguilera, Teng really made the difference and made the trip a reality. Kangpoche NW Face, Eigerwand of the Khum- bu, Jankuth, British Artesonaraju, Greenland (TOP) Mmmm. Chicken heads, our favourite. Credit: Scott. White Sea, Nganglong Kangri.|| ABOUT BMC / MEF EXPEDITION FUNDING

BMC grants are made possible How to Apply: that they can only be assessed on through UK Sport. The BMC conducts its interviews the information they provide on with the MEF and applications paper. For this reason the level of To meet the criteria for consider- for BMC funding are made via the BMC support may be signiﬁ cantly ation for a BMC award teams must MEF’s application system - the less than if they had applied be attempting innovative ascents BMC does not have a separate through normal MEF channels. In in remote mountain environments application form. Organisers are addition a small amount of fund- in ‘good’ style. Most expedi- strongly advised to meet MEF ap- ing may be available for a few tions will also be considered for plication deadlines (31st August last minute trips that meet BMC the Mount Everest Foundation and 31st December). However criteria but cannot comply with (MEF)award. The MEF’s criteria is the BMC understands that in ex- the schedule above. slightly different to that of the ceptional circumstances it may BMC’s. Their main concern is the not be possible and will accept For further information and appli- exploratory nature of the expedi- applications directly up to the cation forms for BMC/MEF awards, tion rather than the technical 15th February in the year of the contact: Bill Ruthven, Gowrie, difﬁ culty, and applications from proposed expedition, as long as Cardwell Close, Warton, Preston, medical and environmental expe- they are submitted on MEF forms. PR4 1SH, or visit www.mef.org. ditions or research proposals are Expeditions applying directly to uk. The application deadline for also considered. the BMC will not be eligible for 2005 expeditions is 31st Decem- MEF funding and should be aware ber 2005.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 5511 111/11/20041/11/2004 10:22:2110:22:21 events Alpine Style Gnarl Johnny Dawes this is the perfect place to get inspiration Nov / early Dec, various From Nov, various and do a little shopping too! Rich Cross (UIAGM Guide and Summit con- The leaping legend himself - Johnny Dawes is > www.outdooradventureshow.co.uk tributor), and Al Powell (alpine sufferer running another series of climbing coaching extraordinaire) are giving a series of lectures workshops this winter. One-to-one or group BMC Winter Meet on their cutting edge adventures this year. sessions are available in movement skills, 27 Feb - 6 Mar, Glenmore Lodge On Saturday 4th Dec (Brynrefail near Llan- training and route techniques. Venues in- Are you an experienced and keen winter beris), Tuesday 7th December (London), and clude the Castle and Mile End, dates tbc. climber? If so and you'd enjoy showing Wednesday 8th Dec (Gloucester) Rich will > www.johnnydawes.com foreign guests the perverse pleasures of be talking about the ﬁ rst ascent of Mount Scottish winter climbing, the BMC is look- Kennedy's vast 2000m NW Face - one of the A5 BBC ing for hosts for the 2005 meet. Contact last great challenges of the remote Canadian [email protected] for details. Yukon. Whilst on Tuesday 7th Al will be From 22nd Jan scaring the good people of Manchester with If you're feeling strong then don't miss the “Jirishanca South Face and never mind the A5 British Bouldering Championships. With Conville Mountain Skills Bullock!” Not a lecture to take your mother new trial veterans and youth categories: 26 & 27 Feb, Lake District to! All tickets are £5, with bar at most ven- Looking for guidance on navigation, rope ues and Rab rafﬂ e prizes up for grabs. A5 BBC (Seniors) work, use of equipment and avalanche as- > www.alpine-guides.com R1 22nd Jan, BoulderUK sessment? Then come along to a one-day R2 12th Feb, Westview (+ New Vets) course in the Lake District. The Conville R3 20th Feb, Olympia London workshops offer a practical introduction to Kirkpatrick Madness A5 BBC (Juniors) basic winter and mountain craft skills. You’ll Nov / early Dec, various R1 12th Feb, Westview ( + New Youth) have the opportunity to question profes- Somewhere between Ricky Gervais and Joe R2 19th Feb, Olympia London sional instructors in any area of mountain Simpson lies Andy Kirkpatrick, taking the skills, whether relating to summer, winter or traditional mountaineering slideshow and alpine conditions. For application forms see turning it upside down. As usual Andy will Outdoor Adventure Show 18th – 20th Feb, Olympia, London the BMC website. The deadline for applica- be talking about anything that's in his head, tions is Friday 28th January. loosely based around the theme "A chocolate The Outdoor Adventure Show is back at Ol-

river runs through it". This is climbing in the ympia!> Highlights include the Guinness World Alps, Norway, and America tied together with Record Dyno Competition, and ﬁ nal round of BMC Annual Gathering a very strange tale involving dwarfs, a mil- the BBC (above). Sponsored by Ford Ranger, 23-24 April, Plas y Brenin lion gallons of chocolate and Johnny Depp. the Show will also feature a whole host of Join us at the Annual Gathering and AGM, You'd be mad to miss it. fantastic speakers, retailers, brands and ac- held at Plas y Brenin to coincide with their > www.psychovertical.com tivities. So if you live in the Southeast, then 50th year celebrations.

on Please send me a copy of the NEW Safety on Mountains Safety video & booklet at £15.00 (non members) & £12.50 (members).

Mountains I enclose a cheque for£ payable to clothing - equipment - navigation - hazards British Mountaineering Council. camping - environment - first aid Or, alternatively please debit my Mastercard/Visa/Switch account,

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...... L Postcode: Slo Before you pull on your rucksack make sure you pack in the advice contained in this new video and Daytime Tel: ...... booklet. Beginners and seasoned hillwalkers can both beneﬁt from the detailed skills advice contained in the 64 page BMC membership Nº (if known): booklet. The video brings this advice to life as you follow four hill walkers developing their skills through summer, autumn and winter seasons.

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447630_SUMMIT_36.indd7630_SUMMIT_36.indd 5544 008/11/20048/11/2004 15:52:2615:52:26 LAST THOUGHTS

Why do we climb? Julie Urquhart knows.

soan elite alpinistu or a novice mountaineer,l how many times you see it, cannot help but fi ll you with a sense Whether you’ve probably been there: plodding up of wonder. These moments make us feel as if we are away from ev- the unending snow slope, gasping for breath in the thin air, ask- erything, and through experiencing this beauty of nature there is a ing yourself the question - why am I doing this? Why do we keep real sense of refreshment and renewal. putting ourselves through the pain? Is it simply “because they are We get so bogged down with daily life that we all too soon for- there”, as that oft-quoted phrase by George Mallory would suggest? get about the world around us. In trying to explain why climbing How right was he anyway? And do we still think in the same terms provides that complete escape and rejuvenates the spirit, many of today? Some might say if you have to ask the question, then you those interviewed spoke of the views, the expansiveness and the won’t understand the answer. power of nature and how this puts everything into perspective. One However, my inquisitive mind is not satisfi ed with that, surely climber commented: “You can’t help but be in awe when you look at there has to be a more deep-rooted reason for the allure of high something like the Alps.” places? So as part of a study exploring the environmental attitudes Perhaps too some of us have a deep-rooted need for a sense of of climbers, I also investigated their motivations for heading out struggle and accomplishment where the odds are real and the stakes into the hills. The results revealed diverse, powerful and sometimes are high. A primitive urge fulfi lled by getting back to basic needs spiritual reasons that are perhaps not so different to the early where fundamental elements such as food and shelter become the mountaineers of the late 1800s. focus. And on return to civilisation and our everyday life we feel bet- Before the Industrial Revolution mountains were considered fearful ter able to cope with the pressures and problems that it entails. One places. Many believed they were the abode of dragons, gods and interviewee exclaimed, “it makes me feel capable of anything.” monsters angered by human trespassers in their domain. Landscapes Many expressed feelings of connection to the environment in were appreciated for their agricultural worth; climbing to a desolate which they climbed, and some intimated that this was on a spiritual summit was considered pointless. Towns and villages were viewed level. Although such an experience may be transient and diffi cult to as welcome oases in an unforgiving and wild landscape. defi ne, people expressed a strong sense of connecting with a power However, during the late 19th century mountains took on a new greater than themselves, although many stressed they are not actually meaning. There was a need to escape from the dirty, congested cities, religious. One climber even went on to say that “my church, if you the summit became a symbol of freedom and a natural target for city- like, is the outdoors”. (Ed: Wasn't Aron Ralston was it??) dwellers who could afford it. As disposable income increased, escape Climbers also talked about how the openness of the landscape to the wilds became an ever more important consideration, and early and feeling of isolation instils a sense of insignifi cance - “I think Victorian mountaineers spoke of the magnifi cence of mountains and you look down and you realise how insignifi cant you are to life. their power to stir the spirit and refresh the mind. And to the whole processes of life you are irrelevant, they carry on Are the motivations of modern mountaineers so very different whether you are here or not. It’s really important to remind yourself today? Certainly traveling to these places took much longer 100 of that.” And the higher you go the more removed from the human years ago and needed massive commitment. It took Mallory months world you are, once above the clouds the presence of civilisation to travel to India by sea, and then weeks of walking before he even no longer seems to intrude. There is a sense that in some way we, arrived at the Himalaya. Today travel from the UK to Kathmandu as humans, do not totally belong there, “we are intruders in a place takes less than a day. However, although travel has changed dra- where we shouldn’t be.” matically, commitment seems to be just as deep - the study revealed For me, being in these environments and putting aside everyday a depth in the motivations that drive climbers and mountaineers, life makes the experience complete, but only with the physical ef- which surprised even me. Many climbers interviewed spoke of the fort needed. The experience of reaching a summit would be greatly positive effect that being in the natural environment has on their reduced if I were simply dropped there by helicopter. To fully ap- emotional well being. One climber commented that “climbing is the preciate the raw power of the environment, from the unpredictable one thing that keeps me sane.” Others said that it makes them feel weather to the gaping crevasses or huge rock falls, you just have to more “well-balanced” and provides a sense of “clarity”. totally immerse yourself. “The good wouldn’t be good without the Joe Simpson puts it well in The Beckoning Silence, “There is some- bad,” one climber noted. There are no shortcuts, without the sense thing about mountains that moves the soul. They arouse a powerful of the unknown, the risks and the dangers, it simply wouldn’t have sense of spiritual awareness and a notion of our own transient and the same appeal. fragile mortality and our insignifi cant place in the universe. They Climbing is rare in its ability to instil humility and insignifi cance, have about them an ethereal, evocative addiction that I fi nd impos- yet it also restores the balance in life by putting everything into sible to resist. They are an infuriating and fascinating contradiction. perspective. I return from the mountains refreshed, with a renewed Climbing rarely makes sense but nearly always feels right.” sense of peace, and a unique and spiritual perception of the natural Moments such as watching a sunrise at high altitude on the edge world and knowledge of my place in it. But how do you convey all of an immense glacier are priceless. The mountains at dawn are a this to a non-mountaineer? Well that I don’t know, and suggest that magical place, the dark silhouettes of icy peaks slowly shrouded in your only choice is to borrow Mallory’s words one more time - and the fi rst glittering rays of a new day. It is a sight that no matter you won’t be the last.||

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