Climbing on Kangchenjunga Since 1955
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A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya
The Himalaya by the Numbers A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya Richard Salisbury Elizabeth Hawley September 2007 Cover Photo: Annapurna South Face at sunrise (Richard Salisbury) © Copyright 2007 by Richard Salisbury and Elizabeth Hawley No portion of this book may be reproduced and/or redistributed without the written permission of the authors. 2 Contents Introduction . .5 Analysis of Climbing Activity . 9 Yearly Activity . 9 Regional Activity . .18 Seasonal Activity . .25 Activity by Age and Gender . 33 Activity by Citizenship . 33 Team Composition . 34 Expedition Results . 36 Ascent Analysis . 41 Ascents by Altitude Range . .41 Popular Peaks by Altitude Range . .43 Ascents by Climbing Season . .46 Ascents by Expedition Years . .50 Ascents by Age Groups . 55 Ascents by Citizenship . 60 Ascents by Gender . 62 Ascents by Team Composition . 66 Average Expedition Duration and Days to Summit . .70 Oxygen and the 8000ers . .76 Death Analysis . 81 Deaths by Peak Altitude Ranges . 81 Deaths on Popular Peaks . 84 Deadliest Peaks for Members . 86 Deadliest Peaks for Hired Personnel . 89 Deaths by Geographical Regions . .92 Deaths by Climbing Season . 93 Altitudes of Death . 96 Causes of Death . 97 Avalanche Deaths . 102 Deaths by Falling . 110 Deaths by Physiological Causes . .116 Deaths by Age Groups . 118 Deaths by Expedition Years . .120 Deaths by Citizenship . 121 Deaths by Gender . 123 Deaths by Team Composition . .125 Major Accidents . .129 Appendix A: Peak Summary . .135 Appendix B: Supplemental Charts and Tables . .147 3 4 Introduction The Himalayan Database, published by the American Alpine Club in 2004, is a compilation of records for all expeditions that have climbed in the Nepal Himalaya. -
The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011
The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011 Adjudication by Barry Imeson I would like to start by thanking my two distinguished co-judges, Lindsay Griffin and Bernard Newman, for ensuring that we have all arrived at this year’s award in good health and still on speaking terms. We met at the BMC on 9 September to agree a shortlist based on what, in our view, constituted ‘mountain literature’ and what also met the Award criterion of being an original work that made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature. We then considered the twenty three books that had been entered and, with no small difficulty, produced a shortlist of five. We would like to start with the non-shortlisted books. As judges we were conscious of the effort required to write a book and we want to thank all the authors who provided such a variety of enjoyable, and often thought-provoking, reads. We were, however, particularly impressed by two books, which though not shortlisted, we believe have made welcome additions to the history of mountaineering. The first of these was Prelude to Everest by Ian Mitchell & George Rodway. Their book sheds new light on the correspondence between Hinks and Collie and includes Kellas’s neglected 1920 paper A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mount Everest. This is a long overdue and serious attempt to re-habilitate Kellas, a modest and self-effacing man. Kellas was an important mountaineer, whose ascent of Pauhunri in North East Sikkim was, at that time, the highest summit in the world trodden by man. His research into the effects of altitude on climbers was ahead of its time. -
Sharon Wood the Remarkable Life of Sharon Wood
Home is Where the Mountains Are Home is Where the Mountains Are The Remarkable Life of Sharon Wood The Remarkable Life of Sharon Wood In mountaineering Sharon Wood found a pursuit equal to her intensity and emotional courage. In coming to terms with the nature of peaks, Sharon discovered others who were not afraid to put their lives on the line in exchange for a glimpse of their deeper selves. She also found she possessed the ability to solve ever more complex and demanding climbing problems. While engaging in the most intense forms of inward and outward exploration, Sharon Wood and her climbing partners shaped an entire generation of Canadian alpinism. Home is Where the Mountains Are is their story. For further information regarding The Summit Series of mountaineering biographies, please contact the National Office of the Alpine Club of Canada. www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca by Lynn Martel Sixth in the SUMMIT SERIES Biographies of people who have made a difference in Canadian Mountaineering. Home is Where the Mountains Are The Remarkable Life of Sharon Wood by Lynn Martel Design by Suzan Chamney, Glacier Lily Productions, Canmore With special thanks to our friends at McAra Printing, Calgary CANADIAN CATALOGUING IN PUBLICATION DATA Martel, Lynn Home is Where the Mountains Are: The Remarkable Life of Sharon Wood ISBN: 0‑920330‑48‑7 © 2004, The Alpine Club of Canada All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be copied or reproduced without the permission of the author. The Alpine Club of Canada P.O. Box 8040 Canmore, Alberta T1W 2T8 403.678.3200 Cover photograph: Sharon Wood and Alison Andrews on Air Voyage at Lake Louise, Alberta. -
Michigan Ice Fest 2016 Presented By
MICHIGAN ICE FEST 2016 PRESENTED BY: February 10th - 14th Munising, MI Wearable Equipment for Moving in the Mountains Men’s KnifeRidge Jacket The perfect soft-shell balance of breathability and weather protection, ideal for steep terrain, up or down. Come in and see Patagonia’s new Backcountry Touring Collection. Learn more at patagonia.com/backcountry © 2015 Patagonia, Inc. Contents Welcome to Ice Fest 6 Presenter Bio: Tim Emmett 29 What’s New for 2016 8 Presenter Bio: Scott Bennett 30 Get the Most Out of Ice Fest 10 Other Athletes 31 Classes and Clinics 13 Sue Knott Scholarship 33 About Munising 14 Photo Contest 34 Park Service Rules/ Ettiquette 17 The Michigan Ice Film 36 If You’re Going to Dance on Ice... 18 The Joy of Contradiction 38 Learn Something New 20 Munising in the Summer 40 Munising Map 22 Sponsors 42 Ice Fest Schedule 24 Thank You 45 Presenter Bio: Henry Barber 27 Sisu Shot 46 Presenter Bio: Dawn Glanc 28 - Michigan Ice Fest Keep up on all of the latest Ice Fest News at Follow Us - @michiganicefest www.MichiganIceFest.com - michiganicefest Cover: Adam Dailey on HMR Contents: Peter Vintoniv on Photo: Mike Wilkinson Dairyland Check out Mike’s photo class on Page 20! Photo: Andrew Burr Festival Organizer Welcome to Ice Fest Bill Thomspon I really doesn’t seem that long-ago, 24, 25 or maybe even 26 years ago, just a few folks, a bit of gear, and lots of beer. Out of those first few years our “family” has grown and so has the Fest. -
Xixabangma 1987 ]Erzy Kukuczka and ]Anusz Majer
Xixabangma 1987 JERZY KUKUCZKA and JANUSZ MAJER (Translated by Ingeborga Doubrawa-Cochlin) T he first Polish expedition to the Tibetan Himalaya was organized by the Polish Alpine Association and the High Mountain Club in Katowice. Its main goal was to put a new route on Xixabangma (8046m) and to give Jerzy Kukuczka his fourteenth 8000m peak. (A short note on this expedition appeared in A193, 24 I, 1988/89. In the present article the height of Xixabangma has been left uncorrected at 8046m.) Late in 1986, Kukuczka had talks with the President ofthe Association of Sport and Tourism of the Chinese People's Republic and a government minister, Mr Li Menghua. These were followed, in May 1987, by a week in Beijing during which Kukuczka and Majer had talks with the Chinese Mountaineering Association, led by its president Mr Zhanchua. Finally, in July of the same year, a delegation from the CMA, led by the general secretary Mc Wang Feng Tonga, visited Poland. As a result of all this activity, permission was eventually received to climb the W ridge of Xixabangma and the N wall. The members of the expedition were: Jerzy Kukuczka (leader), Wanda Rutkiewicz, Artur Hajzer, Lech Korniszewski (expedition doctor), Janusz Majer and Ryszard Warecki, all from Poland; and from abroad: Eisa Avila and Carlos Carsolio (Mexico), Christine De Colombel and Malgorzata Bilczewska Fromenty (France), Alan Hinkes (GB), Ramiro Navarrete (Ecuador) and Steve Untch (USA). The Chinese personnel were the liaison officer, the interpreter and the cook. The expedition left Kathmandu on 16 August 1987 and by the evening of the following day we had reached Col Kodari on the Nepal-China border. -
Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka [3] Józef Jerzy Kukuczka (ur. 24 marca 1948 w Katowicach, zm. 24 Jerzy Kukuczka października 1989 na Lhotse w Nepalu) – polski taternik, alpinista i Józef Jerzy Kukuczka himalaista, jako drugi człowiek na Ziemi zdobył Koronę Himalajów i Karakorum – wszystkie 14 głównych szczytów o wysokości ponad 8 tysięcy metrów (pierwszy był Reinhold Messner, któremu zajęło to szesnaście lat i cztery miesiące, Kukuczce niespełna osiem lat). Uznawany jest za jednego z najwybitniejszych himalaistów w historii. Spis treści Życiorys Jerzy Kukuczka – graffiti w Bogucicach (2011) Najważniejsze osiągnięcia Data i miejsce 24 marca 1948 Osiągnięcia wspinaczkowe – chronologia urodzenia Katowice Tatry Dolomity Data i miejsce 24 października 1989 śmierci Lhotse Alpy Bułgaria Przyczyna upadek z wysokości śmierci po pęknięciu liny Alaska Alpy Południowe (Nowa Zelandia) Miejsce lodowa szczelina na spoczynku Lhotse Hindukusz Korona Himalajów i Karakorum Narodowość polska Inne Edukacja Studium Trenerów Alpinizmu Upamiętnienie [1][2] Książki Małżeństwo żona Cecylia Artykuły Dzieci Maciej, Wojciech Filmy Odznaczenia Sztuki teatralne Przypisy Linki zewnętrzne Życiorys Był beskidzkim góralem, którego rodzina pochodzi z Istebnej. W szkole średniej uprawiał przez pewien czas podnoszenie ciężarów, aż do momentu, kiedy dostał zakaz lekarski uprawiania tego sportu. W 1965 roku został członkiem Harcerskiego Klubu Taternickiego im. gen. Mariusza Zaruskiego w Katowicach. HKT, należący do Hufca Katowice-Zachód, prowadził działalność turystyczną na rzecz hufca, organizując imprezy turystyczne z wykorzystaniem elementów z zakresu wspinaczki. W działaniach tych brał czynny udział Jerzy Kukuczka. W 1966 roku wstąpił do Koła Katowickiego Klubu Wysokogórskiego i ukończył tatrzański kurs wspinaczkowy. W czasie harcerskiego zimowiska w Kowarach zimą 1967/68 uzyskał stopień przewodnika, a następnie – podharcmistrza. W HKT pełnił funkcje przewodniczącego Komisji Rewizyjnej (1967–1969) oraz szefa komórki szkoleniowo-kwalifikacyjnej (1971–1975). -
Harvard Mountaineering 31
HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING Number 31 JANUARY, 2 0 2 1 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING NUMBER 31 JANUARY, 2 0 2 1 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. Photo, Vladislav Sevostianov To those who came before us and turned this affair of the soul into the best damned HMC we could imagine, and in whose steps we hope to follow. Photo, Nicolò Foppiani In Memoriam Mark Herzog August 22, 1992 – January 27, 2020 In Memoriam Photo, Kevin Ziechmann Janette Heung May 26, 1985 - September 5, 2020 Club Officers 2019 - 2020 2020 - 2021 President: ELISSA TAYLOR President: ELISSA TAYLOR Vice President: KYLE SUttON Vice President: JACK LAWLOR Secretary: GEnnIE WEILER Secretary: KYLE SUttON Treasurer: KAMI KRISTA Treasurer: PAUL GEORGOULIS Cabin Liaison: KEN PEARSON Librarian: ELI FRYDMAN Cabin Liaison: KEN PEARSON Gear Czar: JACK LAWLOR & Librarian: SERENA WURMSER LINCOLN CRAVEN- Gear Czar: CHARLIE BIggS & BRIGHTMAN CHRIS PARTRIDGE Graduate Liaison: NICOLÒ FOppIANI Graduate Liaison: NICOLÒ FOppIANI Faculty Advisor PROF. PAUL MOORCROft Journal Editor: SERENA WURMSER Copies of this and previous issues of HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING are available on request for $10.00 each from the Harvard Mountaineering Club; #73 SOCH; 59 Shepard st; Cambridge, Massachusetts 02138, USA. Contents 2019 HMC BOLIVIA EXPEDITION ................................................................ 9 Eliza Ennis & Vladislav Sevostianov METEORA GREECE, AUGUST 2019 ................................................................ 15 Carson Denison CLIMBIng THE MAttERHORN WITH JANEttE: THE 2019 HMC .................... 34 TRIP TO THE ALPS Nicolò Foppiani TRAD BEFORE TRAD: LIFE AT THE GUnkS IN THE 1960S ................................... 42 Mark Van Baalen ICE ON MY AXES: PLAntIng SEASON IN THE HIMALAYAS, ICELAND, ........... 50 AND PATAGONIA Emin Aklik ALPINE ALTERNATIVES: THE HIGH TATRAS .................................................. -
Genre Bending Narrative, VALHALLA Tells the Tale of One Man’S Search for Satisfaction, Understanding, and Love in Some of the Deepest Snows on Earth
62 Years The last time Ken Brower traveled down the Yampa River in Northwest Colorado was with his father, David Brower, in 1952. This was the year his father became the first executive director of the Sierra Club and joined the fight against a pair of proposed dams on the Green River in Northwest Colorado. The dams would have flooded the canyons of the Green and its tributary, Yampa, inundating the heart of Dinosaur National Monument. With a conservation campaign that included a book, magazine articles, a film, a traveling slideshow, grassroots organizing, river trips and lobbying, David Brower and the Sierra Club ultimately won the fight ushering in a period many consider the dawn of modern environmentalism. 62 years later, Ken revisited the Yampa & Green Rivers to reflect on his father's work, their 1952 river trip, and how we will confront the looming water crisis in the American West. 9 Minutes. Filmmaker: Logan Bockrath 2010 Brower Youth Awards Six beautiful films highlight the activism of The Earth Island Institute’s 2011 Brower Youth Award winners, today’s most visionary and strategic young environmentalists. Meet Girl Scouts Rhiannon Tomtishen and Madison Vorva, 15 and 16, who are winning their fight to green Girl Scout cookies; Victor Davila, 17, who is teaching environmental education through skateboarding; Alex Epstein and Tania Pulido, 20 and 21, who bring urban communities together through gardening; Junior Walk, 21 who is challenging the coal industry in his own community, and Kyle Thiermann, 21, whose surf videos have created millions of dollars in environmentally responsible investments. -
LOS CATORCE OCHOMILES Todos Escalados Por Carlos Carsolio Sin El Uso De Oxígeno Suplementario
LOS CATORCE OCHOMILES Todos escalados por Carlos Carsolio sin el uso de oxígeno suplementario. ESCALADO COMPAÑEROS GRADO DE *GRADO DE DIFICULTAD AÑO MONTAÑA ALTURA EXPEDICIÓN RUTA COMENTARIO POR CARLOS EN LA CIMA DIFICULTAD* Escalada fácil, con F J. KUKUCZKA, pocos o ningún Primer ascenso al pilar sureste tramo que precise 85 NANGA PARBAT 8,125 m 13 - jul POLACA Z. HIENRICH, S. Espolón Sur Este ED a la cima Fácil aseguramiento. LOBODZINSKI E. AVILA, W. Escalada moderada, RUTKIEWICZ, Primera travesía de la cumbre con algo de 87 SHISHA PANGMA 8,046 m 18 - sept POLACA Cara Norte D PD aseguramiento y R. WARECKI, R. media a la principal posiblemente con NAVARRETE rápeles en el descenso. Poco difícil Trepadas expuestas, Ruta en Solitario a partir de 88 MAKALU 8,463 m 12 - oct ALEMANA SOLO Mak. La D+ glaciares con grietas. 7000 m ONISHI, Escalada asegurada, YAMAMOTO, Primer ascenso latinoamericano además de bastantes 89 EVEREST 8,848 m 13 - oct MEXICANA Arista Sureste D AD sin tanques de oxígeno tramos expuestos, MITANI, LEE aunque sencillos. Se SAK WOO Bastante difícil necesitará asegurarse casi continuamente. MEXICANA Británica Cara 92 KANCHENJUNGA 8,586 m 12 - may SOLO TD+ Segundo ascenso de la ruta POLACA Norte Escalada de nivel S. BOZIC, V. bastante alto. Las vías Ascenso sin aclimatización 93 K2 8,611 m 13 - jul ESLOVENA GROSELJ, S. Espolón Sureste TD D de D suelen incluir o previa en 19 días bien cientos de metros POSGAJ de escalada moderada Difícil Ascenso contra reloj (18:45 desde o bien vías más cortas, 94 CHO OYU 8,201 m 26 - abr ALEMANA SOLO Cara Noreste D Campamento Base a 5700 m) pero más complicadas. -
Michigan Ice Fest Presented By: 2017
MICHIGAN ICE FEST PRESENTED BY: 2017 February 15th - 19th Munising, MI 2 Lodging in Munising Pictured Rocks Inn and Suites Buckhorn Resort M-28 East N3919 Buckhorn Drive Munising, Michigan 49862 Munising, Michigan 49862 Phone:906-387-2493 Phone:906-387-3559 Toll Free:800-329-7466 www.buckhornresort.com www.picturedrocksinn.com Cherrywood Lodge Resort I EconoLodge Boarders Inn & Suites Inn and Suites 10160 M-28 East M-28 East Munising, Michigan 49862 Munising, Michi 49862 gan Toll Free: 1-855-255-1901 Phone: 906-387-5292 www.cherrywoodlodgemunising.com Toll Free: 888-693-8262 • www.boardersinnandsuitesmunising.com Hillcrest Motel and Cabins E9454 M-28 East Alger Falls Motel of Munising Michigan � Munising, Michigan 49862 Hi!ia-est E9427 State HWYM-28 Phone:906-387-6363 Motc,I & Cabin.- Munising, Michigan 49862 www.hillcrestmotelandcabins.com Phone: 906-387-3536 www.algerfallsmotel.com Holiday Inn Express Lakeview E8998 HighwayM-28 Americlnn Lodge & Suites of Munising Michigan Munising, Michigan 49862 E9926 State Hwy M-28 East Phone:906-387-4800 Munising, Michigan 49862 www.hiexpressmunising.com Phone: 906-387-2000 www.americinnmunising.com Beach Inn Motel on Munising Bay Munising, Michigan 49862 E 9360 H58 Phone:906-387-2466 www.northstarhotelpicturedrocks.com Munising, Michigan 49862 Toll Free:1-855-255-1902 Superior Motel & Suites 500 M-28 East Munising, Michigan 49862 Munising Motel MlJNl.1 G Phone:906-387-1600 332 E. Onota St. MOTEL www.superior-motel.com Munising, Michigan 49862 Phone: 906-387-3187 Terrace Motel www.munisingmotel.net 420 Prospect Munising, Michigan 49862 Scotty's Motel Phone:906-387-2735 415 Cedar St. -
Read Through the Information Below About K2 and the Climbers' Recent
What is happening in the news this week? A team of climbers from Nepal have become the first ever to summit the world’s second highest mountain, K2, in winter. When did you last challenge yourself? Learn more about this week’s story here. Watch this week’s useful video here. This week’s Virtual Assembly here. How does it make me feel? sad angry happy confused excited worried shocked afraid despondent aggrieved beaming addled animated agitated astonished alarmed disconsolate annoyed buoyant baffled elevated anxious astounded apprehensive dismal discontented cheery bemused enlivened apprehensive disconcerted daunted doleful disgruntled contented bewildered enthusiastic concerned distressed fearful downhearted distressed delighted disorientated exhilarated disquieted dumbfounded frantic forlorn exasperated enraptured indistinct exuberant distraught horrified horrified gloomy frustrated gleeful muddled thrilled distressed staggered petrified melancholic indignant glowing mystified disturbed startled terrified miserable offended joyful perplexed fretful stunned woeful outraged puzzled perturbed surprised wretched resentful troubled vexed uneasy Assembly Resource Read through the information below about K2 and the climbers’ recent ascent to the summit. What do you think would have been the hardest part of the climb? How do you think the climbers would have felt when they reached the summit? K2 Fact file • K2 is found on the China-Pakistan border. • It is the second highest mountain in the world at 8611m (28251ft). • Known as the Savage Mountain, -
The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices
University of Calgary PRISM: University of Calgary's Digital Repository Graduate Studies The Vault: Electronic Theses and Dissertations 2014-09-16 The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices Benjamin, Mary Wilder Benjamin, M. W. (2014). The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices (Unpublished master's thesis). University of Calgary, Calgary, AB. doi:10.11575/PRISM/28251 http://hdl.handle.net/11023/1767 master thesis University of Calgary graduate students retain copyright ownership and moral rights for their thesis. You may use this material in any way that is permitted by the Copyright Act or through licensing that has been assigned to the document. For uses that are not allowable under copyright legislation or licensing, you are required to seek permission. Downloaded from PRISM: https://prism.ucalgary.ca UNIVERSITY OF CALGARY The Mountaineering Experience: Determining the Critical Factors and Assessing Management Practices by Mary Wilder Benjamin A THESIS SUBMITTED TO THE FACULTY OF GRADUATE STUDIES IN PARTIAL FULFILMENT OF THE REQUIREMENTS FOR THE DEGREE OF MASTER OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN FACULTY OF ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN CALGARY, ALBERTA SEPTEMBER, 2014 © Mary Wilder Benjamin 2014 Abstract Recreational mountaineering is a complex pursuit that continues to evolve with respect to demographics, participant numbers, methods, equipment, and the nature of the experience sought. The activity often occurs in protected areas where agency managers are charged with the inherently conflicting mandate of protecting the natural environment and facilitating high quality recreational experiences. Effective management of such mountaineering environs is predicated on meaningful understanding of the users’ motivations, expectations and behaviours.