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Harvard Mountaineering 31 HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING Number 31 JANUARY, 2 0 2 1 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASSACHUSETTS HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING NUMBER 31 JANUARY, 2 0 2 1 THE HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CAMBRIDGE, MASS. Photo, Vladislav Sevostianov To those who came before us and turned this affair of the soul into the best damned HMC we could imagine, and in whose steps we hope to follow. Photo, Nicolò Foppiani In Memoriam Mark Herzog August 22, 1992 – January 27, 2020 In Memoriam Photo, Kevin Ziechmann Janette Heung May 26, 1985 - September 5, 2020 Club Officers 2019 - 2020 2020 - 2021 President: ELISSA TAYLOR President: ELISSA TAYLOR Vice President: KYLE SUttON Vice President: JACK LAWLOR Secretary: GEnnIE WEILER Secretary: KYLE SUttON Treasurer: KAMI KRISTA Treasurer: PAUL GEORGOULIS Cabin Liaison: KEN PEARSON Librarian: ELI FRYDMAN Cabin Liaison: KEN PEARSON Gear Czar: JACK LAWLOR & Librarian: SERENA WURMSER LINCOLN CRAVEN- Gear Czar: CHARLIE BIggS & BRIGHTMAN CHRIS PARTRIDGE Graduate Liaison: NICOLÒ FOppIANI Graduate Liaison: NICOLÒ FOppIANI Faculty Advisor PROF. PAUL MOORCROft Journal Editor: SERENA WURMSER Copies of this and previous issues of HARVARD MOUNTAINEERING are available on request for $10.00 each from the Harvard Mountaineering Club; #73 SOCH; 59 Shepard st; Cambridge, Massachusetts 02138, USA. Contents 2019 HMC BOLIVIA EXPEDITION ................................................................ 9 Eliza Ennis & Vladislav Sevostianov METEORA GREECE, AUGUST 2019 ................................................................ 15 Carson Denison CLIMBIng THE MAttERHORN WITH JANEttE: THE 2019 HMC .................... 34 TRIP TO THE ALPS Nicolò Foppiani TRAD BEFORE TRAD: LIFE AT THE GUnkS IN THE 1960S ................................... 42 Mark Van Baalen ICE ON MY AXES: PLAntIng SEASON IN THE HIMALAYAS, ICELAND, ........... 50 AND PATAGONIA Emin Aklik ALPINE ALTERNATIVES: THE HIGH TATRAS ................................................... 58 Walter Latusek THE YEAR THAT EVEREST BROKE? .................................................................... 68 Thomas Becker TRIBUTE TO MARK HERZOG .......................................................................... 75 TRIBUTE TO JANEttE HEUng ......................................................................... 101 CABIN REPORT .............................................................................................. 124 CLUB ACTIVITIES ........................................................................................... 125 MEMBERSHIP ................................................................................................. 127 T RI P R E P OR T 2019 HMC Bolivia Expedition EXPEDITION MEMBERS: ELIZA EnnIS, ELIN HEDIN, CORNELIA IDOff, VLADISLAV SEVOSTIANOV, AND KYLE SUttON P AR T 1 Summit of Stairs by Eliza Ennis ‘19 N OUR FIRST ACCLIMATIZATION hike, we didn’t leave La Paz. Starting from our hostel, the four of us (Elin, Cornelia, Vlad, Oand I) wove our way through the streets of La Paz toward the city edge. We passed the tiendas full of llama wool hats and brightly decorated ties and the church square with protestors and street food. At the main road, we were shepherded across the striped crosswalk by people in zebra costumes. Known as cebritas, the furry crossing guards have been manning ‘zebra crossings’ and reducing traffic in- cidents across Latin America since the 1990s. After the busy crossing, we began our ascent up the steep side streets. The crowds thinned and our pace slowed. Elin and Cornelia had flown in from Sweden via Miami (both very much at sea level) just a day or two before, while Vlad and I had come from Wyoming and New Mexico (a bit over 5,000 feet). La Paz, on the other hand, is the highest capital city in the world, at just below 12,000 feet. The next stage of the ascent included a set of grueling stairs. We were rewarded partway up by taking a break on some empty play- ground equipment. School children ran in the streets higher up, swing- ing their backpacks with ease and not noticing the lack of oxygen. A large dog growled at us from one street, so we shifted our route up a different stairway. We reached the top of the stairs and made our way up a winding paved road toward the teleférico station. After avoiding a few more dogs, we stepped on our first trail, which wandered up a sparsely 9 Vlad, Elin, and Eliza at the top of our hike in La Paz. Photo, Cornelia Idoff wooded hill behind the teleférico. This trail led us past a decaying cat and a graffitied wall and some teenagers drinking out of a large soda bottle. When we emerged from the woods at the top, a gravel road and some adorable puppies were our only obstacles to the top. We had reached a round concrete terrace that looked out over the city. Though we hadn’t set out with a specific destination in mind, this felt like the right place to rest our quads and claim our first peak. Just a few hun- dred yards from a nearby house, we topped out at 13, 210 feet. This elevation marker, like most of our measurements throughout the trip, was accomplished using Snapchat. Not feeling the full descent, we bought tickets for the teleférico for a few bolivianos each. Elin, Cornelia, Vlad and I climbed aboard a cable car and zoomed down the mountain that forms just one side of this bowl-like city. All around us were people on their daily commute, avoiding the traffic and smog of city buses below. The never-ending staircase of our ascent zipped by in a few sec- onds, and we could see just how many buildings checkered the sides of La Paz’s city slopes. We could also see beyond the city toward high desert mountains like those we would attempt to summit in the com- ing weeks. Compared to those, our staircase hill was just a light city 10 stroll. Weirdly, we also saw a small wildfire whip down a neighboring mountain, but luckily it seemed far from any houses. The cable car landed back in the center of the city, and we walked back to the hostel, proud of our accomplishments and reminiscing about oxygen. P AR T 2 Getting to Khara Khota Base Camp by Eliza Ennis ‘19 UR NEXT ACCLIMATIZATION HIKE took us to La Cumbre, a shale- covered mountain pass of around 14,700 ft. which we skipped Oacross with far greater ease than we had felt laboring up the steps in La Paz. Despite the cold, Elin and Cornelia brought along alpaca skirts and Elin pulled a third skirt out of her bag for me, which we modeled, shivering, to prove that our ability to overcome both alti- tude and cold was improving. To get to La Cumbre, it seemed like we spoke with half the guid- ing agencies in La Paz to find a driver. It was well worth the effort, however, as Edgar and his micro (a small bus befitting our obscene amounts of gear) proved to be critical in getting to all of our future basecamps. With the confidence of vaulting up La Cumbre under our belts, we began to plan for our first longer adventure. We (mostly Vlad) poured over maps to identify routes, and we (mostly Vlad – our fear- less navigator) decided on the Khara Khota valley as a basecamp. After Vlad explained the route to me, I translated and haggled trans- portation price with the guide company. We also went shopping, purchasing lentils, vegetables, and an exciting array of spices that none of us could identify from a street market. With overflowing bags of gear and groceries, we piled into Ed- gar’s van and took off towards the mountains. We drove up the side of the La Paz bowl that we hadn’t yet tackled and through the area of 11 the city known as El Alto. We passed a garbage collector that played music like an ice cream truck, made a lengthy stop for gas, and then drove out of the city. Crumbling walls along the side of the highway were laced with pro- and anti-Evo Morales political graffiti. When we turned off the main road, we were met with sparse fields, small houses, and small clusters of livestock. The road began to climb, and we passed the basecamp of a mining operation. Soon, we found ourselves driving down a windy one-lane mountain road with several thousand feet below us on one side and a steep scree mountain on the other. It was beautiful and exciting. Then, we met another car. Going the other direction, the car had wedged itself as far into the mountain scree as it could, leaving a space for us to slide by. I was confident that remaining space, with a several thousand-foot drop on one side, was smaller than the width of our van. The driver of the other vehicle disagreed and convinced Edgar he could make it. We were all terrified. We began to inch through the gap, but about halfway past the other car, a van tire slipped. I dove through the window of the van and grabbed the other car, leaning halfway out the window. Somehow, we didn’t fall off the cliff, but I held onto the other car as we continued to inch, trying to apologize in tearful Spanish to the passengers in the other vehicle while also refusing to let go of their car. Compared to that part of the journey, setting up basecamp was a treat. Edgar dropped us off skeptically, and we lugged our many bags across the semi-frozen grass and moss ground. We set up two tents behind a small hill for wind protection. As we would learn in the coming days at Khara Khota, water was both our friend and our enemy. Elin, Cornelia, and Vlad had to be constantly reminded to drink enough water at the high altitude, while I drank so much water that we had to constantly pump more, a cold and dreaded task. The stream ran directly out of the base of a nearby glacier, a fact which felt abundantly clear when your hands turned blue while doing dishes. The cold, it turned out, was not just a water-related issue. That night, the tent that Vlad and I shared iced over – inside and outside.
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