LOS CATORCE OCHOMILES Todos Escalados Por Carlos Carsolio Sin El Uso De Oxígeno Suplementario

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LOS CATORCE OCHOMILES Todos escalados por Carlos Carsolio sin el uso de oxígeno suplementario. ESCALADO COMPAÑEROS GRADO DE *GRADO DE DIFICULTAD AÑO MONTAÑA ALTURA EXPEDICIÓN RUTA COMENTARIO POR CARLOS EN LA CIMA DIFICULTAD* Escalada fácil, con F J. KUKUCZKA, pocos o ningún Primer ascenso al pilar sureste tramo que precise 85 NANGA PARBAT 8,125 m 13 - jul POLACA Z. HIENRICH, S. Espolón Sur Este ED a la cima Fácil aseguramiento. LOBODZINSKI E. AVILA, W. Escalada moderada, RUTKIEWICZ, Primera travesía de la cumbre con algo de 87 SHISHA PANGMA 8,046 m 18 - sept POLACA Cara Norte D PD aseguramiento y R. WARECKI, R. media a la principal posiblemente con NAVARRETE rápeles en el descenso. Poco difícil Trepadas expuestas, Ruta en Solitario a partir de 88 MAKALU 8,463 m 12 - oct ALEMANA SOLO Mak. La D+ glaciares con grietas. 7000 m ONISHI, Escalada asegurada, YAMAMOTO, Primer ascenso latinoamericano además de bastantes 89 EVEREST 8,848 m 13 - oct MEXICANA Arista Sureste D AD sin tanques de oxígeno tramos expuestos, MITANI, LEE aunque sencillos. Se SAK WOO Bastante difícil necesitará asegurarse casi continuamente. MEXICANA Británica Cara 92 KANCHENJUNGA 8,586 m 12 - may SOLO TD+ Segundo ascenso de la ruta POLACA Norte Escalada de nivel S. BOZIC, V. bastante alto. Las vías Ascenso sin aclimatización 93 K2 8,611 m 13 - jul ESLOVENA GROSELJ, S. Espolón Sureste TD D de D suelen incluir o previa en 19 días bien cientos de metros POSGAJ de escalada moderada Difícil Ascenso contra reloj (18:45 desde o bien vías más cortas, 94 CHO OYU 8,201 m 26 - abr ALEMANA SOLO Cara Noreste D Campamento Base a 5700 m) pero más complicadas. Ascenso contra reloj (23:50 desde 94 LHOTSE 8,511 m 13 - may INTERNACIONAL SOLO Cara Oeste D Las vías de MD suelen Campamento Base) incluir tramos muy 94 BROAD PEAK 8,047 m 9 - jul ALEMANA SOLO Cara Oeste TD+ Nueva Ruta en Solitario largos de escalada TD difícil. El escalador Camarógrafo del primer tiene que subir D. KARNICAR, A. 95 ANNAPURNA 8,091 m 29 - abr ESLOVENA Cara Norte D descenso en esquí desde la cima Muy difícil rápidamente y hacer KARNICAR por los hermanos Karnicar un tiempo “de libro” en la ascensión. 30 hrs aproximadamente desde 95 DHAULAGIRI 8,167 m 15 - may SUIZA SOLO Arista Noreste D+ Campamento Base/Ruta en ED Las vías ED se Solitario desde 6200 m subdividen en ED del 95 GASHERBRUM II 8,035 m 4 - jul INTERNACIONAL SOLO Cara Oeste TD Nueva Ruta en Solitario 1 al 4. La vía 1938 en la Extremadamente cara norte del Eiger se K. WIELICKI, E. difícil considera ED2. Ascenso contra reloj (30:00) 4 - 8 95 HIDDEN PEAK 8,068 m 15 - jul INTERNACIONAL VIESTRUS, J. Cara Oeste D+ miles en 78 días de cima a cima BERBEKA 96 MANASLU 8,163 m 11 - may MEXICANA A. CARSOLIO Cara Noroeste D Completa los 14 Ochomiles.

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Climbing on Kangchenjunga Since 1955
JOSE LUIS BERMUDEZ Climbing on Kangchenjunga since 1955 he history of climbing on Kangchenjunga in the years immediately T after the first ascent is easily told. Nothing happened for almost twenty years. There were many reasons for this. The sheer remoteness of the mountain must surely be one, as must the political difficulties in getting permission to climb the mountain either from Sikkim or from Nepal. And it is understandable that in the late 1950s the attention of mountaineers should have been focused on the 8000-metre peaks that were still unclimbed. Kangchenjunga's status as a holy mountain was a further obstacle. So it is not entirely surprising that there were no expeditions to the Kangchenjunga massif between 1955 and 1973. When climbers did eventually return to Kangchenjunga they found obvious and formidable challenges. Kangchenjunga has four distinct sum mits over 8000m. 1 The 1955 expedition climbed the Main Peak, which is the highest at 8586m. But that still left three virgin summits which were not much shorter: the South Summit at 8476m, the Central Summit at 8482m and the West Summit (better known as Yalung Kang) at 8505m. Equally significant were the two routes that had been attempted on the Main Peak before the successful expedition. The route taken by the first ascensionists was the Yalung (SW) Face, approached from the Yalung gla cier on the Nepalese side of the frontier ridge. As emerged very clearly in the Seminar, the Yalung Face was not the route favoured by most previous attempts on the mountain. The three expeditions in the late 1920s and early 1930s had thought that the North Ridge was the key to the mountain.
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Everest Also Called Mt
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