Index

1995 Vol100

Adam Smith, Janet: 352 Babu Chhire Sherpa: in art. 'Climb­ Africa, East: arts. 'Mount Kenya's ing the North Ridge of Everest', Diamond Couloir', 100, 'Ancient 27ff and Modern: Some East African Band, George: art. 'Three Climbs in Mountain Myths', 105, 'Moun­ Corsica', 131, review of The Great tain National Park Management Himalayan Traverse: Kanchendzonga in East Africa', 113, 'Tanzania's to Karakoram by SP Chamoli, 303, Other Mountains', 117. Map, 119 and Alpine Club Library, 351; 360 Alaska: in art. 'Hammering the Banks, Mike: 284 Anvil', 47; 277 Bartlett, Phil: 84, 260 Ali, Aamir (Ed.): book Environmen­ Bates, Robert: obit. of Terris Moore talProtection ofthe Himalaya (1908-1993),341 reviewed, 321; 264 Baume, Louis Charles (1919-1993): Alpine Club: Notes, 346, Officers & obit., 339 Committee, 346, Meetings, 347, Berbeka, Maciej: in art. 'Climbing the Honours, 348, Symposium, 352; North Ridge of Everest', 26ff 207,222,231,238 Berg, Peter: art. 'The Eagle's Nest: a Alpine Club Library: 289, 323, 350 Victorian mountaineer and his Alpine Journal, The: iii, 151,207 summer home in the Alps', 207; Alps: art. 'Alps and Pyrenees 1994', 360 241;233 Bermudez, Jose Luis: arts.'Crab Ama Dablam (Nepal): 274 Crawl on the Bezingi Wall', 85, America, North: art. 'North Amer­ (with Paul Knott) 'Russia and ica 1994', 277, MEF Report, 289 Central Asia 1992-94', 255, re­ America, South: art. 'South Amer­ view ofAtthe Rising ofthe Moon by ica and Antarctica 1994', 279, Dermot Somers, 306; iv, 260, MEF Report, 289 262,360 Amstutz, Dr WaIter: 348ff. Plate 60 Bernese Oberland: 235,252 Andes: 320 Bezingi Wall (Caucasus): 85ff; Antarctica: art. 'Antarctica: Voyage map, 87 of the Pelagic', 75; 281. Map, 77 Bicknell, Peter: obit. of EJeanor Arctic Europe: MEF Report, 290 Winthrop Young (1897-1994),336 Argentina: 280 Bishop, Barry (1932-1994): 325 Arka Tagh (Tibet/Xinjiang): 320 Blackshaw, Alan: on 'Competitions in Arunachal Pradesh: 264 Mountain Areas', 358 Asgard, Mount (Baffin Island): in Bles, Mark: book In Search ofLimits art. 'Hammering the Anvil', 47; reviewed, 309 291. Plate 1 (Frontispiece); Map, 49 Boardman Tasker Memorial Award: Atlas, Middle: Berber poetry, 96 348,354 Atlas, Western: 93 Bodh, Pasang: 6lff 365 366 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1995

Bolivia: art. 'The Cordillera de National Park Management in East Potosi, Bolivia', 162; 279, 290 Africa', 113; 360 Bolts: arts. 'Protect and Survive', 195, Cleare, John: 265 'Climbing in the Ecrins', 199; Clyma, Julie-Ann: art. 'Voyage to the letter to Doug Scott 'Equipping Goddess', 52; 265, 292, 360 Climbing Routes with Bolts', 355 Collins, Andrew: 41ff,271 Bonington, Chris: art. 'A Truly Joint Competitions in MountainAreas: 358 Venture', 57; iv, 39,65, 196,266,360 Continental United States: 278 Bregaglia/Bemina: 245, 253 Contractor, Muslim: 59ff, 66ff British Mountaineering Council: Cook, Mount (3764m): 236 39,191,289 Cordillera de Potosi: art. 'The Broad Peak (pakistan): 270ff Cordillera de Potosi, Bolivia', 162. Brown, Hamish M: art. 'The Western Map, 164 Atlas', 93; 360 Corsica: arts. 'Corsican Retrospec­ Burgess, Adrian: 7Iff tive', 125, 'Three Climbs in Cor­ Buscaini, Gino: book Monte Bianco sica',131 Volume 1 reviewed, 311 Cox, ADM (1913-1994): obit., 332; 352. Plates 81, 82 Canada: 277 Craine, Noel: 47ff, 291 Card, Frank: book Whensoever: 50years Crurnley, Jim: book AmongMountains ofthe RAFMountain Rescue Service reviewed, 321; 348 1943-93 reviewed, 317 Curran, Jim: 59f, 63, 65ff Carsolio, Carlos: 270, 276 Carter, H Adams: art. 'North America Dean, Steve: book Hands ofa Climber: 1994',277 A Life of Colin Kirkus reviewed, 315 Caucasus: arts. 'Crab Crawl on the Destivelle, Catherine: 198,245 Bezingi Wall', 85, Map, 87; 'Almost De Tudela, Cesar Perez: 156ff a Russian Haute Route', 178; 235, Dhaulagiri (Nepal): 275 260 Diamond Couloir: art. 'Mount Ken­ Central Asia: art. 'Russia and Central ya's Diamond Couloir', 100. Plate: Asia 1992-94',255, MEF Reports, back cover 295;322 Dickinson, Matt: 76ff Chamoli, A P: book The Great Hima­ Diemberger, Kurt: book Spirits ofthe layan Traverse - Kanchendzonga to Air reviewed, 297; 133,272,354 Karakoram reviewed, 303 Dolomites: 235, 246 Cheeseman, Chris: art. South Dore, Gustave: in art. 'The Matter­ America and Antarctica 1994', 279 horn Lithographs of 1865', 215. Chile: 281 Plates 79, 80. China: in art. 'Climbing in the Kill­ Douglas, Ed: art. 'Protect and Sur­ ing Fields', 34ff, MEF Report, 291 vive', 195; iv, 361 Chinese MountaineeringAssociation: 36 Eagle's Nest, The: 207ff. Plates 70, 71 Cho Oyu (Nepal/Tibet): in art. Echevarria, Evelio: art. 'The Cordil­ 'Preparations for Everest' , 222ff; lera de Potosi, Bolivia', 162, review 275f offour books on Ecuadorian moun­ Clarke, Charles: review of Hands ofa tains and mountaineering, 307; iii, Climber: A Life ofColin Kirkus, 315 361 Clarke, Paul: arts. 'Mount Kenya's Ecrins: art. 'Climbing in the Ecrins', Diamond Couloir', 100, 'Mountain 199;243,246 INDEX 367

Ecuador: four books on Ecuadorian Gregson,Jim: art. 'Probing the mountains and mountaineering re­ Pourquoi-Pas', 183; 290, 361 viewed, 307; 279 Griffin, Lindsay: art. 'Alps and Pyr­ Eiger (Bernese Oberland): 252 enees 1994',241, (with Paul Nunn) El Capitan (Yosemite): 278 'Pakistan 1994', 269, reviews of In Elmes, Marian: art. 'Hills, Horses and Search ofLimits by Mark Bles, 309, Hunger', 82; 260, 353, 361 Alps 4000 by Martin Moran, 309, Esten, M J: obit. of Christopher and Monte Bianeo Volume 1, 311; 361 Gravina (1934-1994), 345 Grimmett, Geoffrey: review of No Evans, Charles: 223f, 231 Place to Fallby Victor Saunders, 313 Everest (see Mount Everest) Gross, Etienne (Editor of Die Alpen): letter to Doug Scott on 'Equipping Finch, George: 17,24, 127, 130, 132 Climbing Routes with Bolts', 355 Fine, Etienne: 40ff FitzGerald, E A: 236 Hall, Rob: 269f, 275 Fotheringham, Jim: 57ff, Hamilton, David: art. 'Almost a Fowler, Mick: 353 Russian Haute Route', 178; 262, 361 Freeman-Attwood, Julian: art. 'Ant- Hammer, Matthias: 179ff arctica: Voyage of the Pelagic', 75; Harding, JG R: art. 'Corsican Retro­ 273,281,294,361 spective', 125; 361 Fu-Chou, VVang: 19,24 Hargreaves, Alison: book A Hard Furlan, Vanja: 264, 276 Day's Summerreviewed, 312; 354 Harrison, Sheila: 348, 352 Garhwal: art. 'Voyage to the God- Haston, Dougal: 196 dess', 52; 265 Hill, Lynn: 278 Gasherbrum 1(pakistan): 271 Hillary, Edmund: 223ff, 232, 325 Gasherbrum 2 (Pakistan): 272 Himachal Pradesh: 266 Gasherbrum 3 (Pakistan): 272 Himalaya: 321 f (See also China, Gates, Nigel: Reviews of Hold the India, Nepal, Tibet.) Heights by VValt Unsworth, 302, and Hinkes, Alan: art. 'The North Side of Mountain Environments and Geo­ K2' 71; 270, 362. graphic Information systems edited by Hodgkin, Robin: obit. of A DM Cox Martin F Price and D Ian Hey­ (1913-1994),332 wood,304 Hoek, Henry (1878-1951): in art. Gifford, Terry: poems 'The Snow 'The Cordillera de Potosi, Leopard', 137, 'TheAlpinists', 204, Bolivia', 165. Plate 44 review of We Aspired: The LastInno­ Holgate, VVilliam: bookArka Tagh. The centAmericansby Pete Sinclair, 316; Mysterious Mountains reviewed, 320 and 8th Int Festival of Mountain­ Hooton, Larry: 84 eering Literature, 354; 361 Howard, Tony: art. 'Middle East Gippenreiter, Dr Yevgeniy B: 352 1994', 286; 362 Graham Brown andLloyd Collec- Hunt, John: obit. of ADM Cox tions , Catalogue of reviewed, 322 (1913-1994),334; obit. of James Gravina, Christopher Manfred (1934­ VValler (1911-1994),337; 183, 191, 1994): obit., 343 195, 197, 230, 348. Plate 60 Greenland: art. 'Probing the Pour­ Hypoxia andMolecular Medicine, ed. by quoi-Pas', 183, MEF Reports, 290f John R Sutton, Charles S Houston, Gregory, Alfred: 223ff, 231 Geoffrey Coates, reviewed, 298 368 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1995

India: art. 'India 1994',264, MEF Lakpa Nuru Sherpa: in art. 'Climb- Report, 291 ing the NorthRidge ofEverest', 27ff International Mountain Society: 197 Langshisha Ri (Nepal): 276 Ives, JD (Ed.): book The fl/ustrated Latok 1 (pakistan): 273 Library ofthe Earth: Mountains Lenin, Pik (pamir): 255 reviewed, 319 Lhotse (Nepal): 276 Little, Graham: 57ff Johnson, Brad: 71£f Littlejohn, Pat: 353 Joint Himalayan Committee: 222ff Lloyd, Peter: 231 Jones, Crag: 273,294 Long, Jeff: art. 'Climbing in the Jordan: 287 Killing Fields', 34; 362 Longstaff, Tom: 1,52,212 KZ: arts. 'Against the Odds', 39, 'The Lowe, George: 223ff, 231 North Side of KZ', 71, in art. 'Paki­ Low's Gully: 149ff. Plate 56 stan 1994', 269, MEF Reports, 294. Lowther, Jim: 57ff Kapadia, Harish: art. 'India 1994', Lyall, Alan: art. 'The Matterhorn 264, in art. 'A Truly Joint Venture', Lithographs of 1865',215; 362 57; 65ff, 266,362 ~ Lynam, Joss: 348 Karabiner Mountaineering Club: in art. 'ProbingthePourquoi-Pas', 183 Mackinder, Ha1ford: 108ff Karakoram: See Pakistan Maier, Frith: book Trekking in Russia Karakoram, Chinese: art. 'The North & CentralAsia reviewed, 322 Side ofKZ' , 71 Mallory, George Leigh: 1, 18,23, Kashmir: 268 25,28f Kempson, Edwin: 4ff Manirang, 6593m (East Kinnaur): Kedar Dome (India): 265 art. 'Manirang, 6593m', 65; 266 Kentish, John: 178ff Marmet, Dr Jiirg: 347, 350 Kenya, Mount: art. 'Mount Kenya's Maslen-Jones, Bob: book Countdown Diamond Couloir', 100; 106ff, to Rescue reviewed, 317 113ff. Plate: back cover Matterhorn: art. 'The Matterhorn Khan Tengri (Tien Shan): 258f Lithographs of 1865', 215ff; 245 Kharta Changri (Tibet): 3, 14. Mazur, Daniel: in art. 'Against the Plate 5 Odds', 39; 271 Khubram: 63, 67 McDermot, Frank: 78, 81 Kielkowski, Jan: book Mount Everest Medical Research Council: 222, 232 Massifreviewed,318 Meru, Mt (4566m): 117f. PlateS3 Kilimanjaro: 106ff, 113ff, 117. Plate 52 Messner, Reinho1d: 20, 24, 196 Kinaba1u (Borneo): art. 'Kinaba1u: Middle East: 286f Summit of Borneo', 145. Map, 151 Mil1edge, James S: book (with MP King Albert I Memorial Foundation: Ward and JB West) High Altitude 348, Awards, 348 Medicine andPhysiology, reviewed, Kinnaur, East: 57ff, 65ff. 299 Knott, Paul: art. (with Jose Luis Miller, Mark: 25 Bermlidez) 'Russia and Central Mistry, Kaivan: 63, 67 Asia 1994',255; 261, 263,296,353, Momhi1 Sar (pakistan): 273 362 Mont Blanc Massif: 243, 248, 234 Kommunizma, Pik (pamir): 255f Monte Rosa (Va1ais): 245 Kumaon: 265 Moore, Terris (1908-1993): obit., 341 Plate 84 INDEX 369

Moran, Martin: book Alps 4000 Oiarzaba1, Juanito: 269 reviewed, 309; 348 Old Man of Hoy, The: 284 Mountaineering Literature, 8th Int. Oman: 286 Festival of: 354 Orlov, Eugene: 175f Mount Everest: arts. 'Everest 1935: Ort1erlAdamello: 253 The Forgotten Adventure', 3, Osmaston, Henry: review of 'Everest Calling', 15, 'Climbing The Dlustrated Library ofthe Earth: the North Ridge of Everest', 25, Mountains edited by J DIves, 319 'The Height of Mount Everest', 30, Oxford MountaineeringLibrary, The: 'Preparations for Everest' 222; 275f, 352 212. Mount Everest Foundation: Expedi­ Pakistan: arts. 'Against the Odds', 39, tion Reports, 289; 39, 191,231 'Pakistan 1994',269, MEF Reports, Mountain Environments andGeographic 294 Information Systems ed. by Martin Pamirs: art. 'The Transpamirs Ski F Price and D Ian Heywood Expedition', 175, Map, 177; 253, 255 reviewed, 304 Pargia1, Leo (6791m): 65 Mummery, A F: 196,237 Pargial, Reo (6816m): 65, Plate 25 Muni, Divyesh: in art. 'Manirang, Parkin, Andy: 196, 244, 250, 269 6593m', 65, 60ff Parsons, Mike: 84, 260 Murph~Brendan:273,295 Payne, Roger: in art. 'Voyage of the Murray, Donald (1906-1994): obit., Goddess', 52; 265, 292 342 Peru: 279 Peyron, Michael: art. 'Middle Atlas Nanda Devi East (Garhwal): 53ff Berber Poetry', 96; 362 Nanga Parbat, Mummery lost in Pinfield, Steve: 152ff 1895: 272, 237f, 239 Pobeda (Tien Shan): 258f Neate, Jill: book Mountaineering in the Pollard, Andrew J: review of Andes. A Sourcebookfor Climbers High Altitude Medicine andPhysi­ reviewed, 320 ology, 2nd edition 1995,299; 293 Nepal: art. 'Nepal 1994', 274, MEF Pourquoi-Pas glacier (Greenland): Reports, 293; 30, 32,223 art. 'Probing the Pourquoi-Pas', New, Robert: art. 'Kinabalu: Sum- 183. Map, 184 mit of Borneo', 145; iii, 362 Pratt, Jonathan: art. 'Against the New Zealand: 236, 270 Odds', 39; iii, 271,363 Nicol, Hamish: 134 Pritchard, Paul: art. 'Hammering the Norton, Lt Col E F: 15, 17,24, 212f Anvil', 47; iii, 196, 198, 291, 363 Novak, Skip: 75ff, 281 Pugh, Griffith: in art. 'Preparations Nugent, Frank: in art. 'Everest Call­ for Everest', 222ff; obit., 326 ing', 15ff Pyrenees: arts. 'Pyrenees 3DOO', 139, Nunn, Paul: arts. 'Manirang, 6593m', 'Alps and Pyrenees 1994', 241; 65, (with Lindsay Griffin) 'Pakistan Map, 138 1994', 269; iv, 57ff, 348, 354, 362 Nyka, J6zef: 265, 273, 275f Quinlan, Steve: 47ff

O'Connor, Bill: art. 'Nepa11994', 274 Rangrik Rang, 6553m: first ascent, 63; Odell, Noel: 23f 266 Olimori, Koichiro: book Over the Reid, Steve: 273, 294 Himalaya reviewed, 322 Renshaw, Dick: 196 370 THE ALPINE JOURNAL 1995

Reynolds, Kev: art. 'Pyrenees 3000', Sondheimer, Ernst: review of Spirits 139;363 ofthe Airby Kurt Diemberger, 297 Richardson, Simon: art. 'Scottish South Georgia: 281 Winter 1993-94', 282; 363 Spenceley, George B: obit. of Louis Riddell, W J: obit. of Griffith Pugh, Charles Baume (1919-1993), 339 328 Spender, Michael: 3ff Robbins, Royal: 198 Stelfox, Dawson: art. 'Everest Royal Geographical Society: 30,107, Calling', 15; iii, 32, 363 112,222,231,289 Stewart, Jules: art. 'An Irian Jayan Ruddle, Roy: Area Notes prepared by, Adventure', 156; 363 241; iv, 363 Streather, Tony: 231 Russell, C A: art. 'One Hundred Years Stroud, Mike: book Shadows on the Ago', 233; iii, 363 Wasteland: Crossing Antarctica with Russia: art. 'Russia and Central Asia Ranulph Fiennes reviewed, 318 1992-94',255; 322 Suratram: 63, 67 Ruthven, Bill: MEF Expedition Reports summarised by, 289; 363 Temple, John: art. 'Ancient and Mod­ Rutkiewicz, Wanda: 348ff ern: Some East African Mountain Ruttledge, Hugh: 17,24 Myths', 105; and Symposium 'The Ruwenzori (Mountains of the Moon): Mountains of Siberia & Turkestan', 105ff, 113ff, 352;364 Templeman, Geoffrey: Book Re­ Salcedo, Juan Luis: 156ff views compiled by, 297, In Saunders, Victor: book No Place to Fall Memoriam compiled by, 325, reviewed, 313; 273, 348 reviews of A HardDay's Summer Savile Row, 23: anniversary of move by Alison Hargreaves, 312, Shad­ to, 238 ows on the Wasteland: Crossing Scarratt, Mark: 179ff Antarctica with Ranu/ph Fiennes by Scotland: art. 'Scottish Winter 1993­ Mike Stroud, 318, and other 94',282 books, 317-323; iv, 364 Scott, Doug: 35, 39,47,265,269,281, Thomson, ID S: book The Black 348, 353; and letter from Etienne Cloud reviewed, 317 Gross on 'Equipping Climbing Tibet: arts. 'Everest 1935', 3, 'Everest Routes with Bolts', 355ff Calling', 15, 'Climbing the North Scottish Winter Grading System: 284£ Ridge of Everest', 25, 'The Height Shipton, Eric: in art. 'Everest 1935: ofMount Everest', 30, 'Climbing in The Forgotten Adventure', 3; 222ff the Killing Fields', 34 Siberia: 262, 353 Tien Shan: 82, 258, 353 Sikkim: 264 Tierra del Fuego: 281 SincIair, Pete: book We Aspired: The Tilman, Bill: in art. 'Everest 1935', 5ff LastInnocent Americans reviewed, Tinker, Jonathan: art. 'Climbing the 316;348 North Ridge of Everest', 25; iii, 273, Skvortsov, Leonid: 175f 364 Smythe, Frank: 20,24,61 Tosas, Jordi: 47ff Somers, Dermot: in art.'Everest Call­ Town, John: 295, 353 ing', 16ff; book Atthe Rising ofthe Trango Tower and Great Trango Moon reviewed, 306; 348, 354 Tower: 272 Somervell, T Howard: 16,24 Trikora, Mount (Irian Jaya): 156 INDEX 371

Tunstall, Duncan: art. 'Climbing in Waterman, Jonathan: book In the the Ecrins', 199; 291, 364 Shadow ofDenali reviewed, 321 Watson, Graeme: art. 'Tanzania's UIAA: 197,358f Other Mountains', 117; 364 Ukraine: 263 Webster, Ed: 273, 294 Ultar (pakistan): 272 West, John B: book (with Ward and United Arab Emirates: 286 Mil1edge) High AltitudeMedicine and Unsworth, Wait: book Hold the Physiology, 299 Heights reviewed, 302 Westmacott, Michae1: review of Yankee Rock & Ice, 301; 132ff, 346 Va1ais: 245, 252 Wetterhorn: 207f Vasiljev, Vadim: art. 'The Transpamirs Whymper, Edward: in art. 'The Ski Expedition', 175; 256, 364 Matterhorn Lithographs of 1865', Vignema1e (High Pyrenees): in art. 215ff 'Pyrenees 3000', 141 Wi1kinson, John: obit. of Donald Von Leyden, Albrecht Robert (1905­ Murray (1906-1994): 342 1994): obit., 330 Wills, Dave: 273, 295 Wills, Sir Alfred: in art. 'The Eagle's Wakefield, Jonathan: 43, 46 Nest', 207. Plate 69 WaIler, James (1911-1994): obit., 337 Wilson, Mauriee: 8f Ward, Michae1: arts. 'The Height of Wi1son, Nei1: 86ff, 262 Mount Everest', 30, 'Preparations Wormald, Peter: obit. of A1brecht for Everest', 222, book (with West Robert ('Lolly') von Leyden : 330 and Milledge) High Altitude Wylie, Charles: 348 Medicine andPhysiology reviewed, 299, review of Hypoxia and Yates, Simon: 47, 291 Molecular Medicine, 298, obit. of Yemen: 287 Griffith Pugh, 326; iv, 335, 364 Yin-hua, Xu: 19, 24, 28 Warren, Charles: Art. 'Everest Young, Eleanor Winthrop (1897-94): 1935: The Forgotten Adventure', 3; obit., 336. Plate 83 iii, 65, 364 Younghusband, Sir Francis: 71 Washburn, Bradford: 32f, 325, 348ff. Plate 60 Zabello,Ivan: 175f Waterman, Guy and Laura: book Zermatt: in art. 'Preparations for Yankee Rock & Ice, reviewed, 301 Everest', 222; 234