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No 90 Summer 2009 ISSN 0790 8008 €3.20 ( £2.20) THE MAGAZINE FOR WALKERS AND CLIMBERS IN IRELAND www.mountaineering.ie membership Glenbeigh horseshoe, McGillycuddy’s Reeks, Co Kerry, in mid-winter dawn light. Photo: John Treacy (Tralee Mountaineering Club). Organisational development It’s a time of continuing growth for Mountaineering Ireland elcome to the summer The Board will continue to do all in its assessments, and has also resulted in the edition of the Irish Mountain power to support the work of the Irish development of a Volunteer Training WLog, Mountaineering Mountain Rescue Teams north and south. Officer network at club level. All clubs are Ireland’s flagship publication. I would encouraged to participate in this network. like to begin by thanking the Another new position is that of Talent ID volunteers who, year in, year out, help and Coaching Development Officer which As our membership base continues to to publish this wonderful magazine, has been funded by Sport NI. This officer grow, all members are encouraged to telling your stories of adventure and will focus on the identification of talented become actively involved with friendship in the hills and mountains young climbers across Ireland and will Mountaineering Ireland. The Board and of Ireland and the rest of the world. create opportunities for them to develop staff look forward to seeing as many members as possible at this year’s The membership base of Mountaineering their skills while developing resources and Autumn Gathering in Dingle, Co Kerry, Ireland continues to grow, as does the delivering workshops on coaching skills where Cumann Sléibhteóireachta Chorca overall participation in our sport. for people involved in instructing climbing. Dhuibhne (Dingle Hillwalking Club) have Mountaineering Ireland itself, as an This new position will complement the kindly taken on the hosting arrangements organisation, also continues to grow, and work of the Youth Development Officer. for this Meet to be held from 9 to 11 before the end of the year it is likely that it The Board is delighted to inform October 2009. will have several additional staff positions members that Angela Carlin has been as a result of the support of our members appointed to this new position. She will and the financial support of the Irish continue to act as Youth Development Sports Council and Sport Northern Officer until her old position is filled later Ireland. These new positions will include a this year. part-time Mountain Rescue Development Ruairi Ó Conchúir Mountaineering Ireland’s training office Officer for Northern Ireland. This post, Chairperson also continues to develop, with more which at the time of going to press is at Mountaineering Ireland the recruitment stage, will support the providers coming on board to deliver excellent work being undertaken by Paul approved BOS training schemes. The Whiting, Development Officer for the Irish establishment of a more streamlined and Mountain Rescue Association. It is in all efficient administrative structure has our interest that the mountain rescue resulted in increased numbers teams are fully supported and resourced. undertaking formal training and www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Summer 2009 3 contents WELCOME TO... ISSUE 90 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland. Mountaineering Ireland Sport HQ, 13 Joyce Way Park West Business Park Dublin 12, Ireland Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 [email protected] www.mountaineering.ie Hot Rock Climbing Wall Tollymore Mountain Centre Bryansford, Newcastle County Down BT33 0PT Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 [email protected] Features Editor: Patrick O’Sullivan 20 Mountaineering Ireland: Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) What’s in a name? [email protected] Features Editor: Peter O’Neill Ross Millar on what [email protected] mountaineering means to him. Literary Editor: Joss Lynam Tel: (+353 1) 288 4672 (pm) [email protected] 22 Next stop, America Advertising: Mountaineering Ireland Adrian Hendroff reflects on the best [email protected] walks in Achill. Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn [email protected] Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, 26 Ramabang: a first ascent Alexander Road, Belfast BT6 9HP Gerry Galligan and Darach Ó Tel: +44 (0) 28 9070 2020 Murchú report on the first ascent The Irish Mountain Log is published by of Himalayan Peak 6135. Mountaineering Ireland four times a year – in March, June, September, December. The material published in 32 Ascent of Ama Dablam the Log by the voluntary editorial team and contributors must not be taken as Paddy Cave climbs Ama Dablam official Mountaineering Ireland policy alpine style. unless specifically stated. Copy deadline for the Autumn 2009 36 Traversing the Julian Alps issue of the Irish Mountain Log is John Hurley and David Bourke on Friday, August 14th, 2009. the Sligo Mountaineering Club’s trip PARTICIPATION AND RISK to the Julian Alps. Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger of personal 40 Climbing at Coumshingaun injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and Mick Walsh on a Waterford accept these risks, and be responsible climbing Mecca. for their own actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and promotes safety and good practice 44 Written in stone: what the advice and through Bord Oiliúnt Sléibhe mountains can tell us (BOS, The Irish Mountain Training Board) administers a range of training Bernie Lafferty and Peter Wilson programmes for walkers and climbers. begin a new series on geology. Regulars 6 News 12 IMRA news 48 Training news 52 Access & Conservation news 53 Books 58 The last word 4 Irish Mountain Log - Summer 2009 www.mountaineering.ie editorial Heights of summer t whatever level you engage in our sport, it seems to me Athat it is about adapting to safely meet the challenges that it presents, be they in the environment or within yourself. Environmental challenges will include the terrain but also the weather conditions, which can be so unpredictable in Ireland. The challenges that present within ourselves will include our physical condition but also our mental state. John Muir captured some of the reasons why we might engage in our sport when he said of Yosemite: “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as the sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves.” In this issue, Ross Millar looks at what mountaineering means to him and emphasises the broad church that it is, encompassing as it does so many different activities. As if to emphasise that range of activities, Adrian Hendroff writes eloquently of the joys of walking on Achill, and Gerry Galligan and Darach Ó Murchú enthuse over the first ascent of Himalayan Peak 6135 and about exploring previously untrodden valleys around their peak. In the other articles, Mick Walsh looks at the pleasure to be had climbing in Coumshingaun, while Paddy Cave extols the virtues of an Alpine ascent of Ama Dablam, and John Hurley and David Bourke describe the excitement and camaraderie to be experienced on a Club trip to the Julian Alps. Finally, Bernie Lafferty and Peter Wilson explain what the mountains can tell us. During the longer days of the summer, we should look to expanding our horizons and following in these writers’ footsteps, whatever aspects of our sport you choose to engage in. Patrick O’Sullivan Editor, Irish Mountain Log ON THE COVER: Looking into the previously unexplored Dibidibroki valley in the Spiti region of India in the aftermath of the first ascent of Peak 6135, named Ramabang by the expedition. Photo: Gerry Galligan. THIS PAGE: Descending from Slieveanea on the Dingle peninsula, Co Kerry, New Year’s Day 2009. Photo: Mike Keyes. www.mountaineering.ie Irish Mountain Log - Summer 2009 5 news GENERAL ENQUIRIES News [email protected] BOARD OF DIRECTORS Get all the latest news at www.mountaineering.ie President Alan Tees [email protected] Top job vacant Chairman Ruairí Ó Conchúir [email protected] Chief Officer Stuart Garland moves on Honorary Treasurer David Batt MOUNTAINEERING IRELAND’S first Chief the Irish Sports Council and Sport Northern [email protected] Officer, Stuart Garland, who was appointed Ireland. The Board of Mountaineering Ireland in February 2007, has moved on from the wish Stuart all the best for his further career BOARD MEMBERS organisation. in the voluntary sector. Tomás Alyward Stuart joined the Mountaineering Council Following Stuart’s departure, two Board [email protected] of Ireland, as it then was, at a time of members, Ross Millar and Deirdre McCarthy, Pat Kenneally considerable change in the organisation as it agreed to provide management support to [email protected] expanded and attempted to address the staff on an interim caretaker basis. Other Vincent McAlinden needs of its members more completely. Board members have continued to support [email protected] Stuart’s appointment was seen as a vital the various substructures and committees of Deirdre McCarthy step in building a more complete team of Mountaineering Ireland. At the same time, a [email protected] professional staff, with the skills necessary to process was initiated to recruit a new Chief Jerry O’Dwyer meet those needs, and furthering the Officer. Unfortunately, following first and [email protected] organisation’s development into a volunteer- second round interviews, this process was Patrick O’Sullivan [email protected] directed, professionally managed and fully not successful in recruiting a suitable Ross Millar accountable National Governing Body. candidate and the post will have to be re- [email protected] During Stuart’s term in office, the advertised later this summer.
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