Issue 107 ■ Autumn 2013 ■ €3.95 UK£3.40 ■ ISSN 0790 8008

UPLAND ACCESS Will Comhairle na Tuaithe deliver?

LUGNAQUILLIA THE ARDERINS DEVELOPING Ascent by hillwalkers One writer’s favourite TALENT with disability 500m peaks Training young climbers www..ie Mountaineering has invited Stephen Venables to deliver the 2013 Lynam Lecture. Stephen Venables is a renowned mountaineer, writer, broadcaster and public speaker and was the first Briton to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen. He reached the summit alone, after climbing with a small American- Canadian team by a new route up the gigantic Kangshung face. Everest was a thrilling highlight in a career which has taken Stephen right through the Himalaya from Afghanistan to Tibet, making first ascents of many previously unknown mountains. His adventures have also taken him to the Rockies, the , the Antarctic island of South Georgia, East Africa, South Africa and, of course, the European Alps, where he has climbed and skied for over forty years.

Lynam Lecture 2013 Venue: Edmund Burke Theatre, Trinity College , December 12th 2013. Doors open 7:00pm, start 8:00pm. Bookings: Go to www.mountaineering.ie (€5 for members, €10 for non-members). EDITOR’S COLUMN

ISSUe 107 The Irish Mountain Log is the membership magazine of Mountaineering Ireland. The organisation promotes the interests of hillwalkers and climbers in Ireland.

Mountaineering Ireland Mountaineering Ireland Ltd is a company limited by guarantee and Welcome registered in Dublin, No 199053. Registered office: Sport HQ, 13 Joyce Way, Park West Business Park, Dublin 12, Ireland. Tel: (+353 1) 625 1115 he great weather we have been The government’s commitment Fax: (+353 1) 625 1116 having seems to be coming to an [email protected] end and the evenings are drawing to Comhairle na Tuaithe is www.mountaineering.ie ❝ in. The cycle of the seasons moves being questioned Hot Wall on but, as it does so, when one Tollymore Mountain Centre door closes, another opens and we have the Bryansford, Newcastle opportunity to enjoy the autumn colours in the , BT33 0PT uplands as we engage in our sport. Tel: (+44 28) 4372 5354 When it was set up in 2004, Comhairle na [email protected] Tuaithe (the Countryside Council) was the Mountaineering Ireland’s Chief Executive great hope of recreational users for ensuring editor: Patrick O’Sullivan Officer, voices the national governing body’s sustainable access to the uplands that was Tel: (+353 1) 837 8166 (pm, wknds) concerns in an important article on page 7. acceptable to all parties. Its priorities were to [email protected] We have many articles in this issue that be access to the countryside, developing a Literary editor: Peter O’Neill highlight the wide appeal of our sport and the countryside code and developing a countryside [email protected] benefits of participation in it in terms of our recreation strategy. A forum where health and wellbeing, from the successes of the The Irish Mountain Log is published representatives of state bodies with an interest Irish Youth Climbing Team, to the successes of by Mountaineering Ireland four times in the countryside, farming organisations and a Polish team of amputees in reaching the a year, in March, June, September, recreational users of the countryside could December. The material published in summit of Lugnaquillia and of ten year-old meet should be seen as hugely important by the Log by the voluntary editorial Oisin McDevitt in climbing Mount Elbrus, his any government that recognises the economic team and contributors must not be second of the Seven Summits. We also have a importance of the uplands and the potential taken as official Mountaineering Recreation in the Irish Countryside, moving piece that reflects on the cycle of life Ireland policy unless specifically benefits of access to them for the health of the for a hillwalker, something we can all stated. population. empathise with, whatever age and level of The leaflet enclosed as an insert in this ability we are at. As we go through life, we Copy deadline for the Winter 2013 magazine, have to change our aspirations to match our issue of the Irish Mountain Log is provides definitive information on access and Friday 25th October 2013. ability, but that is something our sport can occupiers’ liability. It is an important product accommodate with ease, providing we can of Comhairle na Tuaithe that will hopefully Advertising: Roger Cole, access areas that are suitable for us, reassure landowners regarding the extent of Silchester Marketing, emphasising again the importance to everyone [email protected] their liability for recreational users of their of having agreed and sustainable access. property. It is important that all landowners Production: Cóilín MacLochlainn and recreational users of the uplands are [email protected] aware of its contents. Patrick O’Sullivan, Editor TMountaineering Ireland has supported Printing: GPS Colour Graphics Ltd, Alexander Road, BT6 9HP Comhairle na Tuaithe from the outset, but now Tel: +44 (0)28 9070 2020 the government’s commitment to CnaT’s objectives is being questioned. Karl Boyle, PARtICIPAtIoN ANd RISK Write for the Log Readers of the Irish Mountain Log are  Contributions of features, news items and photographs for the Irish reminded that hillwalking and climbing are activities with a danger Mountain Log are always welcome and should be sent to the Editor of personal injury or death. at: [email protected] Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks, Contributors’ guidelines can be downloaded from the and be responsible for their own Mountaineering Ireland website, www.mountaineering.ie actions and involvement. Mountaineering Ireland publishes and oN tHe CoVeR promotes safety and good practice To join Mountaineering Ireland and receive four issues of the Irish Hiking up to advice and through Bord Oiliúnt Mountain Log delivered to your door each year, please also go to in the Reeks, Co Kerry. Sléibhe (BOS, The Irish Mountain the website, www.mountaineering.ie Training Board) administers a range PHotogRAPH by of training programmes for walkers FRANK McMAHON and climbers.

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 3 contents AUTUMN 2013

NEWSDESK News & comment 7 COMHAIRLE CONCERNS Concerns mount over Comhairle na Tuaithe (the Countryside Council): is it delivering on its objectives? REGULARS 20 CLUB REPORTS Reports from the Ramblers, the Garda Mountaineering Club and the Hillwalkers Club

26 YOUTH CLIMBING Reports on 16 Mountaineering Ireland’s Youth Climbing Trip ISLAND IN THE SUN: OWEY, CO DONEGAL to and Dublin, and the The Arch, Owey European Youth Climbing competitions 48 BOOKS Reviews of recent publications 40 62 LAST WORD Layton Kor RIP beyoNd HoRIzoNS FEATURES 30 AROUND THE ARDERINS Adrian Hendroff describes his ten favourite 500 to 600m peaks in Ireland 36 TREKKING THROUGH TIME Martin Fitzpatrick describes archaeological monuments to be seen in the . Part II: From the Iron Age to the medieval period 40 FIT FOR THE SUMMIT 36 UPLAND Rafal Stachowicz reports on a ten-day ARCHAEOLOGY fund-raising trek through the by a Polish group of amputees Cloghans near Mt Brandon, Co Kerry and their supporters 44 STURRAL HEADLAND CLIMB 56 YOUTH TALENT Iain Miller leads a team up an exposed DEVELOPMENT Donegal headland

BETA Information & expert advice 52 ACCESS & CONSERVATION Helen Lawless reports

54 TRAINING Dates for your calendar 56 YOUTH TALENT DEVELOPMENT Damien O’Sullivan reports 58 GEAR Kieran Creevy reviews the latest gear

4 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 newsdesk

Staff & board geNeRAL eNqUIRIeS New Training Officer appointed [email protected] Mountaineering Ireland appoints Jane Carney as new Training Officer StAff Chief executive officer Karl Boyle, [email protected] and colleges, at climbing walls and centres Hillwalking, Access & Conservation officer all over Ireland. Helen Lawless, [email protected] Although she says that she was sad to training officer have to put her mountain training Jane Carney, [email protected] Jane Carney has been appointed as the company, Safe Summit, to sleep after talent development officer new Mountaineering Ireland Training fourteen years, she feels that it has Damien O’Sullivan, Officer, replacing Alun Richardson who [email protected] provided her with a wealth of experience, Accounts Administrator left at the end of July. She took up her post both as a mountaineering trainer and as a Terry Canavan, [email protected] at the beginning of September. business manager, experience that she Administrator Jane trained at John Moore’s University will now be able to bring to Una Feeney, [email protected] in Liverpool as a secondary school teacher Member & training Mountaineering Ireland. Support Administrator of Outdoor and Science Education; she As Mountaineering Ireland’s new Rozanne Bell, [email protected] graduated with honours in 1995. Since Training Officer, Jane’s initial focus will be get Ireland Walking Project Manager then, she has taught and learnt through Grainne Quinn, [email protected] on improving the delivery of existing the outdoors. schemes; meeting the needs of clubs and StAff – toLLyMoRe Her qualifications now include the individual members; and introducing new youth development officer Mountaineering Instructor Award (MIA); award schemes/courses for leadership, Paul Swail the Mountain Leader and Winter personal skills and coaching, as necessary. Email [email protected] Mountain Leader Awards (ML/WML); and development Assistant (youth) Alun Richardson, the outgoing Training the Single and Multi Awards Anne Kenny Officer, did a superb job, completing a Email [email protected] (SPA/MPA). huge number of training projects and Jane has always managed to climb initiating many more that Jane now hopes HoNoRARy offICeRS things, be it the “forbidden trees” in her to bring to completion. She feels that Alun President primary school garden or the “sitting- Ursula MacPherson has laid the foundations for further room traverse” at home; sport routes in [email protected] exciting developments within■ mountain Chairperson Spain or trad routes in the Wilton training in Ireland. Jane says she is Ross Millar Quarries; snow and ice in Scotland or thrilled to be joining such an enthusiastic [email protected] glaciers in Greenland. Honorary Secretary team, to start what promises to be the (tba), [email protected] She tells us that, when she was three “best job in the world” Honorary treasurer years old, she made a David Batt, [email protected] wish to “teach science” and “climb boARd MeMbeRS Paul Barron things.” She feels that [email protected] she has been very Bridget Conway lucky in life because [email protected] she has realised both Ruairí Ó Conchúir (Chairperson of Access & Conservation Committee) of these childhood [email protected] ambitions. However, Nicky Hore Jane believes her new [email protected] job will allow her to Patrick O’Sullivan [email protected] advance her Irene Sorohan age-three Master Plan [email protected] Dawson to new heights! Stelfox Jane has already [email protected] worked for around Shay Walsh (Chairperson of BOS) [email protected] eighteen years as a Una Vejsberg trainer for and [email protected] provider of the entire Frank Bradley range of BOS Award [email protected] Schemes. She has also been offering 6 Irish Mountain Log specialised training Autumn 2013 to clubs, individuals, View from Ballycoyle, Glencree, Co Wicklow

CÓILÍN MacLOCHLAINN Comhairle na Tuaithe ‘not performing’ New leaflet on access and liability welcome, but failings of Comhairle na Tuaithe are visible

Irish Mountain Log Recreation in the Irish Countryside, nclosed with this issue of the these matters. This leaflet corrects that communicated its concerns to Minister , there should be a deficiency and hopefully this for Environment, Community and Local copy of Lackinformation of commitment will now be widely Government, Phil Hogan TD, who has an information leaflet about distributed to landowners by their responsibility for Comhairle na Tuaithe. access and occupiers’ liability in the representative organisations. A meeting with the Minister has also . This leaflet has been been requested to determine his and his published by the Department of Karldepartment’s Boyle, commitment to outdoor Environment, Community and Local While an output like this from Chiefrecreation Executive and the Officer, delivery of Comhairle Government on behalf of Comhairle na Comhairle na Tuaithe is highly positive, Mountaineeringna Tuaithe’s objectives. Ireland Tuaithe (the Countryside Council). The it would be remiss of us not to inform aim of the leaflet is to make the members that, overall, Comhairle na ® A pdf of Recreation in the Irish undisputed facts regarding access and Tuaithe is not performing. It appears Countryside is available through the News section of our website, liability available to landowners and that resources are not necessarily the www.mountaineering.ie. Additional everyone who uses the countryside for issue, but rather a lack of political and copies may also be requested from the recreation. departmental will. Mountaineering Ireland office ■ Readers can have confidence in the It is with disappointment that contents of this leaflet as, not only has it Mountaineering Ireland has learned that Ebeen issued by the State, it has also been Des Moore, the senior member of the endorsed by the members of Comhairle Rural Recreation Section that na Tuaithe, who include Mountaineering administers Comhairle na Tuaithe, has Ireland and the farmers’ representative tendered his resignation due to a lack of organisations. All users of the support for the section and the countryside have a responsibility to be priorities of Comhairle na Tuaithe. familiar with and understand this Des Moore has been dedicated to information. outdoor recreation over the past Property rights and access, rights of number of years and the reasons behind way, the responsibility of recreational his imminent departure raise users and occupiers’ liability are all considerable doubt about the future of covered in the leaflet and supported by Comhairle na Tuaithe. On behalf of examples from case law. Over the years, Mountaineering Ireland, I would like to Autumnsome landowners 2013 have voiced their thank him for his considerable efforts to Irish Mountain Log 7 concern about the lack of definitive date. information published by the State on Mountaineering Ireland has newsdesk

The Annascaul Walking Festival

crag, headland and ruin in the parish. In addition, Annascaul offers wonderful craic and friendship in the pubs, food-houses, B&Bs and hostels.

This year, our annual walkingth festivalth takes place on the October Bank holiday weekend, from October 25 to 28 . Do enjoyCumhacht the walks, na sléibhte marked agus looped na farraigíwalks libhand gothe léir! hospitality Brian Lucey you will find during the festival weekend or, indeed, at any other® For time more of details, year. please visit our website, www.annascaulwalks.org, or visit our Facebook page, www.facebook.com/ AnnascaulWalksHillwalkingClub ■

Annascaul Lake Walk

The Annascaul Walking Festival is on the October bank holiday weekend

Within a 20-minute drive of the Co Kerry village there are ten 750-metre peaks with spectacular steep gorges, Annascaul Walks Hillwalking Club is a awesome cliff faces and small, friendly walking club based in the wonderful scenery. Inch heart of the , where Beach is a mere five minutes brooding mountains, stunning coastlines away; then there’s the and fast-flowing rivers provide mystical beauty of Com magnificent walking all year round. The Dubh as it nestles in the club embodies the adventurous spirit, mountains. The history and friendly humour and co-operative nature adventuring of Tom Crean, of Annascaul’s famous son, Tom Crean, William Hussey, Mary the Antarctic explorer. O’Donnell and many Annascaul is also a walkers’ paradise. others seeps out of every

Walkers pose at the Tom Crean statue in Annascaul, Co Kerry, during the Annascaul Walking Festival in 2012

8 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 Window notice to deter break-in thieves This removable car window notice is available free to members of Mountaineering Ireland

In response to an increase in the number of break-ins happening to vehicles parked in upland areas, Mountaineering Ireland has developed a removable car window notice with messages printed on both sides. The notice has an easy to fix and remove suction cup so that you can put it on one of your side windows while you’re walking or climbing and then take it down afterwards. The strong colour and simple graphics should attract attention and hopefully deter thieves. The inside has a reminder message not to leave valuables in your vehicles. Mournes to Kerry. However, it is windscreen; The Gardaí have confirmed that there important that we play our part in trying Lock your vehicle; were 254 reported thefts from vehicles to reduce the number of break-ins by Use Mountaineering Ireland’s in Co Wicklow between 1st June and 31st adhering to the following advice: • removable window notice; • Report all break-ins or damage to August this year, more than double the Helen Lawless number for the same period in the Avoid leaving bags, clothing, etc, on vehicles; previous year. Almost one-third of these view in the vehicle while it is ®• YouReport can anyget onesuspicious of these activitycar window to the thefts were from vehicles that were • unattended; noticesGardaí by contactingor Police. Mountaineering unlocked. The Gardaí in Wicklow are in If you must leave anything in a •Ireland at 01 625 1115 or email vehicle, put it in the boot before you [email protected]. While the notice is the third year of Operation Uplands, • arrive at the parking location; free, there is a small charge to cover which involves patrols by marked and Open the glove box and, where postage and packaging; this is reduced if unmarked cars as well as checkpoints, possible, the lid on the boot, to show club members order together ■ with the aim of reducing this type of • there is nothing in the vehicle; crime. Remove portable sat navs, including Mountaineering Ireland is aware that cradle and suction pads; also wipe break-ins to parked vehicles are a • any suction marks off the problem in many upland areas, from the

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 9 newsdesk

One of the campsites at Electric Picnic...

The Leave No Trace campers ensured that a section of ’s beautiful environment was not disturbed. It is clear that an increasing number of people want to preserve the beauty of the outdoor environment they enjoy. Since this year’s Electric Picnic, Leave No Trace has been inundated with requests to join next year’s campsite. There is a empowering great opportunity to make Electric Picnic people to ‘Leave No more sustainable and reduce the impact Trace’ works! The ® Leave No Trace is an Outdoor Ethics the festival has on the land it is held on. campsite remained clean all Education Programme designed to promote Watchand inspire this space!responsible outdoor recreation. weekend and the contrast with Follow us on Facebook and Twitter. Text the adjacent campsites was all too and pictures by Dorothy-Ellen White stark. Whilst the Leave No Trace ■ campsite was beautifully clean and green with ‘Picnickers’ sunbathing on the grass, in the other campsites beer cans, food wasteLeave and general Nolitter covered Trace the sets example Leave No Trace campsite the envy of all at Electric Picnic

ground so that you could no longer see the grass. A key aspect of the ethos in the campsite was the education of the people staying there about the Leave No Trace The lucky 400 campers staying in the principles so as to inspire responsible first ever Leave No Trace campsite were camping. There was no policing the envy of all at this year’s Electric involved and everyone took Picnic in Stradbally, Co Laois. Those who responsibility for their own registered for this free camping option waste and their own woke up to a pristine campsite complete impact on the land. with picnic benches, morning yoga, a wishing tree and, most importantly, somewhere to recycle their rubbish and dispose of their waste properly! Campers using this campsite took great pride in using the green and brown biodegradable bin bags provided in their welcome packs. Based on this experience, we can safely say that...and the Leave No Trace campsite

10 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 Beara Breifne Way stamps Heritage route stamps launched by An Taoiseach Enda Kenny

mythology to birdlife and hedgerows. The route is being developed to the standards required by the National Trails Office and will be subject to their inspections. The Beara Breifne Way is unique in Ireland in terms of its length and, when completed, will pass through counties Cork, Kerry, , , Offaly, Galway, Roscommon, Mayo, Sligo and Leitrim. Walkers will be able to experience the whole range of beautiful landscapes that these counties have to offer. Heritage stamps for the Beara Breifne At a local level, the route is divided into a series of smaller ways, some of which are Way were launchedth by An Taoiseach, Enda Kenny TD, in the Mansion House, already complete and which include the Beara Dublin, on May 15 . The Chairman of the Way and the . Heritage Council, Conor Newman, also addressed the launch. The heritage stamps will be used to mark walkers’ and cyclists’ ‘passports’ as they complete the various sections of the route. The Beara Breifne Way follows the route of the fourteen-day march from Beara, Co Cork, to Breifne in Co Leitrim, completed by Donal O’Sullivan Beara and one thousand of his followers in 1603. The Beara Breifne Way, the longest in Ireland, runs almost the length of the country and takes the walker and cyclist to some of our most beautiful and least explored areas – along the coast of the ; across six mountain ranges; along the banks of the River Collect a stamp on each of the twelve Shannon; and through the lake regions of Ways along the Beara-Breifne Way Roscommon and Leitrim. The landscape and at each of the 60 stops along the consists of an extraordinary variety of overall route heritage sites, many of which bear witness to the march of four hundred years ago. The Beara Breifne Way also interlinks a series of local ways. The Beara Breifne Way is an ambitious Around these local undertaking which will see the walks and cycles, a development of a walking and cycling number of loops and route along the spine of the country, spurs are planned from Beara to Breifne. All aspects of the where there are route’s heritage will be presented along features of interest away the walk, and archaeological and from the main route. local community groups■ and ecological surveys are currently being As with many walking landowners. With 240 farmers living undertaken along the route. Plaques and routes in Ireland, the Beara along the alone, the scale map boards are to be erected along the Breifne Way is based on of community collaboration that has way, covering topics ranging from local cooperation between been necessary is clear

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 11 newsdesk

Moonlight Challenge

Night-time charity walk on Saturday, November 16th

The Glen of Imaal Red Cross Mountain Rescue Team have announced that they are organising another Moonlight Challenge, now in its fourth year. The team is also celebrating their 30th anniversary this year. They hope that members of Mountaineering Ireland will be able to join them on the Moonlight Challenge on Saturday, November 16th, to help them celebrate their 30 Celebrate Day years in active service and support their fundraising efforts. Help celebrate Nepal Day in The Moonlight Challenge is a 24.5km Full Moon Ireland on September 29th Walk along St Kevins Way and the or, new this year, a 20k Trail Run from Glen of Imaal to . The registration® For more information fee for walkers or to register, is €25 go per to www.wmr.ie person plusor a minimum by the Nepalese Embassy, the www.moonlightchallenge.comfundraising target of €75 per■ person. For runners, the entrance Nepal Ireland Society, various fee is €50 per person. Irish charities with projects in Nepal and the Nepalese Organised by the Nepalese community in Ireland. It will community in Ireland and showcase the diverse cultures other friends of Nepal in this and landscapes that are to be country, Nepal Day – in th seen when visting the country. Farmleigh House, Phoenix There will also be talks about Park, Dublin, September 29 – the® For trekking more details, and see will be a celebration of the mountaineeringwww.nepalireland.org possibilitiesor Facebook diversity that Nepal has to there.www.facebook.com/nepalireland ■ offer. This should be a great day out for anyone who is interested in Nepal. The day has been organised MARGARET TEES

12 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 NEWSDESK

Irish ten-year-old climbs Mt Elbrus

Oisin McDevitt previously climbed Kilimanjaro

rd

On Saturday, August 3 , Oisin McDevitt became only the second 10-year-old ever to climb Mount Elbrus (5,642m/18,510ft) when he summitted with his father, Fergie McDevitt, in poor weather. They had battled through 30 mph winds to stand on the summit in -28⁰C temperatures at 9:30am local time. It seems they took advantage of the only weather window available to their expedition and went for the summit two days earlier than planned. This was possibly Oisin and Fergie McDevitt their only chance, as there on summit of Mt Elbrus was heavy snowfall after their summit day, which may have signalled the end of the climbing season on Mount Elbrus. Of the expedition group of IML , ten that they were with, only ascent of Kilimanjaro, the stands at 5,642m and the Florence Crawford Grove, a five made it to the top, with highest mountain in Africa, by eastern summit is slightly man who was later a two young men from Dublin the Western Breech route lower at 5,621m. President of the Alpine Club. joining Fergie, Oisin and their earlier this year (see 106 The lower of the two After their successful friend, Denis Quilty, on the p11). summits was first ascended summit bid, Oisin and Fergie Mount Elbrus is the highest by Khillar Khachirov, a guide had to wait in a mountain hut top. Oisin’s family is originally Patrick O’Sullivan from Ireland but now lives in peak in , being also the for an Imperial Russian army at 4,000m for the weather to the Channel Islands. highest in the European part scientific expedition in 1829, clear, but both were then able We previously reported on of the Russian Caucasus and the higher in 1874 by an to return safely to their base Oisin McDevitt’s successful range. Its western summit English expedition led by camp.

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 13 newsdesk

JOE VALE Get away from it all – volunteer with An Óige!

Volunteer with An Óige in beautiful Glenmalure valley in Co Wicklow

needed – who run An Óige’s iconic Yeats himself often visited and his Glenmalure Hostel in Wicklow. biography tells of poems written during The hostel will be familiar to these visits. Dr Kathleen Lynn, chief hillwalkers who have climbed medical officer during the 1916 Easter Fancy spending some time away from it Lugnaquillia via the scenic Fraughan Rising and founder of St Ultan’s all in a history-laden valley? Look no Rock Glen and waterfall. It is surrounded Children’s Hospital, subsequently owned further. An Óige are looking for volunteers to run their iconic hostel in by many hillwalking opportunities, and is the house. Dr Lynn stayed at the house in the Glenmalure valley, Co Wicklow. steeped in centuries of Irish history. With July of every year until she passed away Glenmalure is the longest glacial valley no mobile phone coverage, electricity or in 1955. Éamon de Valera officially in Ireland. The hostel is surrounded by running water, the house maintains its opened the house as a hostel in 1956. mountains and is beside a sparkling, historic character, and encourages story- Volunteer numbers permitting, the murmuring river. For company, you will telling by the fire and candlelight. hostel will continue to open seven nights have a varied selection of hillwalkers, The hostel was for many years the a week during the summer months, on historians, gardeners, craftsmen and summerhouse of Maud Gonne MacBride. ®SaturdayFor more nights information, throughout contact the year, and those who enjoy escaping the city and Many of her now published letters to Glenmalurewill continue Hostel to be at enjoyed 086 359 for 3724, many William Butler Yeats were addressed years to come. the trappings of modern life, staying at [email protected] ■ the hostel to enjoy the peaceful setting. from the house, including one in which If this sounds like something you she tells of a famous incident where her would enjoy doing, then join the band of son-in-law tried to burn the house down Deathdedicated volunteers of –Carrauntoohil many more are while her daughter landowner Iseult was inside. JIM BARTON John Doona was one of four who own Carrauntoohil commonage

climbers, Mountaineering Ireland extends its condolences to John Doona’s family and Carrauntoohil & friends. MacGillycuddy’s Reeks John B Doona, one of four owners of a Mountaineering Ireland members who commonage that includes the summit of have not met John Doona may have seen his Carrauntoohil, a section of the photograph in Jim Ryan’s ■ MacGillycuddy’s Reeksth ridge and most of guidebook, published 14the Hag’sIrish Glen, Mountain in County Log Kerry, passed by The Collins Press. Autumn 2013 away on August 18 , 2013, following a brief John Doona’s brother Donal is also one of illness. On behalf of hillwalkers and the owners of Carrauntoohil COLUMNS VIEWPOINT

ROB ROY CYCLE OF LIFE

They were tying the sleeves of two An ageing hillwalker is reduced from summitraincoats attempts to together, wobbly-legged to walksbreak along my the fall.” road am sitting here in my bedroom, Iwriting this, after coming in from my ❝ daily roadwalk. I used to do a bit of hillwalking, but my old legs started to get elastic, like a bicycle tube with not much air in it, and I started to wobble a were having a look at the old walls of the branch, holding on to the upper one, quiet bit as I walked. I had to pack in the harder farmsteads, I slipped out of sight, climbed as a lamb. Then we climbed down the tree 1 walks, going to the summits and up a tree, opened my mouth and started to like two of our ancestors. They talk about the like, and start doing the easier walks – yodel, like Tarzan used to do back in the old people going back to their childhood in grade 3 walks – which were on forestry 1940s films. As I looked down, I could see their way of thinking, or not thinking, but I roads, around lakes and along the coast. three very startled faces looking up. Then it think I went back to my ancestors that day! That was roughly three years ago. I Now, I am just walking on the country all turned to panic stations, but, as professionals have to keep a cool head, I walked the grade 3s since then, up to about roads on my own. could see an organised response click six months ago. By then, my pace had got When I packed in the grade 1 walks, quickly into place. One of them came so slow that I was reduced to walking with three of the walk leaders from my club, slipping like a cat up the blind side of the my dog and he was suffering from an who I had always had a bit of craic with, tree from me, being careful that I would not allergy that made his feet very sore. Sadly, invited me on an unofficial hillwalk. They see him, while another applied his camera he got so ill recently that he had to be put said they would go slowly, at my pace, so to the critical situation! down. we started up a local peak, which is a grade As I went out on a branch, the leader in When I talk with the walk leaders on the 2 walk and slightly easier than a grade 1. It the tree with me was getting prepared to phone now, they always talk about having a is a lovely mountain and, down in the talk me back in again, while the other two get-together, but, as we say in the country, I foothills, there are a lot of old farmsteads were tying the sleeves of two raincoats think they are frightened of another and broadleaved trees. together, hoping to break my fall. As I was ‘handlin.’ I think I wandered off the beaten track a standing on the branch, holding on to an So, I walk on my own now and I’m down bit, but the others walked after me and upper branch, the leader in the tree was to an old wobbly-legged man looking over kept a close watch on me. They had no afraid to put his foot on the branch I was every field gate, always counting sheep or bother keeping me within their sight. So standing on, in case it would break. With no whatever other stock is in the field. This is there I was, starting to wander back in other branch to step on, his arms and legs a habit I have, as I used to keep some stock time, as you do, when you come to my time were wrapped around the trunk of the tree. myself and always first thing in the of life. As he was hanging there, he called down morning, when I would enter the gate or When we arrived at the first old “Will we get the fire brigade?” the cow shed, I would be counting right farmstead at the bottom of the , we had “No,” said one of the others, “Try to coax away. So now I am walking and counting a good look around. We found an old spring him down.” sometimes. I also take car numbers and try well from which the last inhabitants would The leader in the tree said, “Come on, to add up the individual numbers, as I think have drawn water. While the three leaders boy, come to Daddy,” and I walked in on the my old brain needs exercise as well as my

legs and, if I get the wrong answer,th who is going to know? Not even me! Some months back, my 80 birthday came up. The family got together and had a bit of a ‘do’ for me. Among the many presents I got was a t-shirt from one of the leaders with my photograph on the front of it, with my mouth open like Tarzan in the jungle. I■ think that’s one bit of uniform that should go on top of my coffin, when I die. I’ve lived a daft sort of life; I might as well ‘Rob Roy’ is a pseudonym. look daft when I am going down on the two ropes! Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 15 news feature

sea stacks by Alan Tees Board Member, Mountaineering Ireland

Island in the sun: Owey, Co Donegal A visitor’s guide to the climbing and boating delights of Owey in Co Donegal, by Alan Tees, who also delves into the history of sea stack climbing there.

literally riddled with holes below the waterline, many of which link or open out into huge caverns. Then, of course, there is the ‘lake below a lake.’ Bill Magowan and I were about to catch the boat back to the mainland (well, Cruit Island is near enough mainland, being connected by a bridge) when we met an elderly couple of former residents who mentioned the above, with a bit of a twinkle in their eye! We weren’t sure if we were being had, but couldn’t wait to get back to investigate. Perusal of a map showed a small lake at the far side of the island, and further exploration revealed a fissure in the cliff beyond it, which led down, and down, to a large cavern with a lake in it. We have been down since with an inflatable dinghy, paddles and a powerful flashlight and crossed to a fissure on the far side. Remarkable! The cliffs on Owey are very impressive, but many of them suffer from ‘feldspar leaching,’ in that the granite is sugary and loose, and many’s the mouthwatering line turns out Climbing a sea stack on Owey to be more of an exercise in survival. There is, however, ‘Gola quality’ granite in a number of areas. David Walsh visited in 1991, putting up the excellent ‘Nordkapp,’ amongst other routes, and returned in first went to Owey, Co The weather was glorious, contents still inside. The 1993 with reinforcements. By Donegal, in June 1989 on a the sun sparkled on turquoise schoolhouse was still there.... the end of that year there North West Mountaineering seas, and there was an island If Gola is a rock climber’s were almost thirty climbs on Club (NWMC) island camping to be explored! The island, Owey is one for the island. trip, its first to that island. In population of the island had adventure and exploration. The Colmcille Climbing Club the end, there were only steadily decreased from its We were stunned by the array landed in 1999 and 2000, Dennis Golden, myself and my maximum of 152 in 1911, to of high cliffs, sea stacks, climbing in a big bay on the All photographs: ALAN TEES COLLECTION two small sons who braved zero – the last permanent pinnacles, arches, small coves, south-west side, which they 16the wavesIrish and Mountain canvas, Log with residents left between 1975 narrow channels and, of called Dragon’s BayAutumn (the 2013 the rest of the club turning up and 1977. The houses were course, caves, after which the correct name is Scealpán Buí). next day. left open, with many of the island gets its name. Owey is The climbing was adventurous I In 2010, we came into possession of a beautiful hand-drawn map by John McGinley (one of several maps of the west coast of Donegal) and, from this, we have been able to learn the correct local names for many, but not all, of the geographical features. There is a copy hanging on the wall of Iggy’s Bar in Kincasslagh. For walkers, a circumnavigation of the island will provide a fascinating and photogenic short day’s walk, but a day-trip really cannot do Stackamillion sea stack Owey justice. The proper experience involves immersion in the timelessness The Harbour, Owey of a deserted island, paddling, exploring, swimming, fishing, maybe climbing and barbequeing, then watching and spectacular, rather than the sun set on the Atlantic and technical, due to the nature of the light fading on ; sea as you walk over the hill, back although closer to land the the rock, but great for pink on the grey and yellow granite, and the cry of the gull. towards the camp, suddenly channel is much rougher, the photography! They caught the there are golfers just across entrance to the harbour Owey bug and have been Absolute magic! If you have a canoe, bring it! the channel going about their (Spink) narrow and tricky in going back ever since. business or loading their clubs certain tides, and the Probably the most striking Owey is a place of contradictions. Seaward, you into a car to go home, whilst boatman, Dan■ Betty, often feature of the island is you look on from what seems won’t chance it. ‘Stackamillion’ at Cladaghroan, can feel an amazing sense of remoteness and adventure like another planet! Never mind; if you can’t get a teetering pinnacle in a bay Access to the island is more across, there is still plenty to partly surrounded by two sea amongst the spectacular island rock architecture. Then, problematical than Gola, for do in Cruit! arches, which, amazingly, was climbed in 2003 by two passing Poles. Even more amazingly, they left the route description of their new route, ‘Blade,’ E2, in the golf club at Cruit Island. Well you would, wouldn’t you? At Torglass, there is another stiletto of clean granite, which was also climbed by the Poles and, more recently, by Dave Millar and Martin Bonar, in 2009, after several suitors, including myself, had been repelled by the lack of protection and advancing tides. Just west of this is the aptly named ‘Holy Jasus Wall’ Sea arch on Owey (Na Farragáin), whose plungingAutumn 2013 vertical ramparts are come upon suddenly and Irish Mountain Log 17 usually given a very wide berth indeed! news feature

CTO workshop by Amanda Lynch The Wayfarers

Club Training Officers’ Workshop Amanda Lynch of the Wayfarers reports on last year’s CTO Workshop in Laragh, Co Wicklow

ountaineering Ireland’s 2012 annual Club Training Officers (CTO) Workshop was held in November over a weekend in lovely Laragh, Co Wicklow. Myself and other members of the training team from the Wayfarers decided to attend, as we are always on the lookout for new training material and ideas. This seemed like a good opportunity to learn new skills and to share training experiences with members Dave Gaughran (instructor) on Brockagh Mountain with participants in the Club Training Officers’ Workshop Mfrom other clubs. (left to right): Ena Rafferty, Amanda Lynch (author of this piece), Keith Mooney and Ursula Timmins The workshop participants were from clubs of all sizes and levels of experience, from Teachable moments small clubs formed by a small group of friends who walk etc, together, to bigger clubs like ours. We chatted about our teaching materials that are into “What’s a grid reference?” training styles in some detail – available in the form of books, Let’s face it, you can only keep and “What type of gear do the from groups using informal leaflets, DVDs, that can a group of hikers locked up in leaders need in their methods to incorporate support trainers and be a room for so long before they rucksack?”, but few of the training into their hikes, to the incorporated into each club’s make a break for they hills, so clubs had training which larger clubs who tend to have training programme. Helen and Dave took us out Mountainfocused on Log hike participants a more formal, structured We brainstormed the gaps across Brockagh Mountain to and their responsibilities.IML We training programme. We we believed existed in our do a series of bite-sized 103had some lengthy and spirited shared the advantages and individual clubs’ training outdoor workshops they discussions on a recent disadvantages we found in programmes and discussed called ‘Teachable Moments.’ article (“When those different styles of how Mountaineering Ireland These teachable moments is a leader not a leader?”, pp60-61) by Alun training. could assist us with coaching included identifying Richardson, which discussed The formal element of the or by providing material to fill opportunities to promote the responsibilities of a leader weekend was based around a those gaps. Leave no Trace; how to use mix of workshops followed by the landscape to demonstrate of a hike, but also the One aspect that found broad practical on-the-hills map features or hazards; and responsibility of participants agreement was a desire to see instruction with our how to encourage leadership in the hike and indeed the the introduction of a new Facilitator, Dave Gaughran. At skills but also personal group as a whole. Mountain Day Leader course Personal the start, Dave welcomed us responsibility amongst hike What we agreed we need to as we believed there was a responsibility and introduced us to the participants. do in our club training is to formal training that Bord gap in formal training relate each topic we teach Oiliúint Sléibhe (BOS) has to between the Mountain Skills 1 back to the concept of offer. & 2 and the Mountain Leader personal responsibility. As an Helen Lawless, courses. These brainstorming Personal responsibility turned example, we shouldn’t simply Mountaineering Ireland’s activities proved of interest to out to be a recurring theme recommend that people carry Hillwalking, Access & participants from all the clubs over the weekend. Many of extra clothes in their All photographs by: HELEN LAWLESS Conservation Officer, also present, irrespective of the the training programmes run rucksack: we should also link 18attendedIrish and Mountain in the opening Log size or level of sophistication by participants tended to this back to the questionAutumn of2013 workshop gave us a run- of their current training focus on the technical aspects why people should do this, through of the various activities. of leading, launching straight explaining that it is because, as a walk participant, you need to have the ability to cope with cold or with an accident with the contents of your rucksack. There should be no expectation that others will provide for your welfare by giving you their extra clothes, thereby putting Braving the harsh conditions in on the second day of the workshop (left to right): Dave themselves in danger because Gaughran, Ena Rafferty, Frank O’Keeffe, Amanda Lynch, Ursula Timmins and Keith Mooney you were not properly prepared. As trainers, we agreed that we need to drive home not only how to do etc. something but also why people should do it. explaining grid references, to bring to the discussion. weekend; to Helen Lawless The formal structure of a features, what a contour is, Being a member of a large from Mountaineering Ireland, club – the committees, leaders Thanks to the Wicklow club with over 300 members, who coached us on and trainers – are a vehicle to weather, we had high winds, the Wayfarers have quite a environmental awareness and bring together like-minded rain, hailstones and sleet for formal training programme how we can make others adults who have a shared goal the entire day, which, above which has developed over aware of our impact on the of enjoying the hills. The club all else, turned it into an many years, with several environment and other users itself, or individuals within it, extended teachable moment people participating in the of the mountains; to the other are not service providers and on the difficulties of staying training team. Even so, we feel CTOs for sharing tips and should not be viewed as such. warm and dry! it is always a good idea to styles of imparting Each participant in a walk We made the best of it and keep abreast of new training information in a fun and should take responsibility for our short talks veered techniques and share ideas informative way. I thoroughly Sundaytheir own safetywashout! and should towards topics such as the with other clubs. I could quite enjoyed the weekend and, prepare themselves to the importance of keeping warm, happily have spent a week on with my fellow Wayfarers best of their ability. what side of the hill to walk the hills listening to the views who were also at the on in severe weather of everyone who attended. workshop, I brought home conditions, navigating in bad ThankThanks you all for being so lots of new ideas and The Sunday agenda was to be visibility and how to spot or generous with your challenges to inflict on or a nice stroll around help members of the group knowledge. impart to future participants Glendalough during which that are in difficulty due to the in our club training efforts. each CTO could give a brief terrain or weather. All of these example of teaching, using the talks were extremely Thanks to Dave Gaughran for * * * * * * * surrounding environment to informative, with each being an excellent facilitator, Mountaineering Ireland’s provide live examples, such as participant having something coach and trainer for the 2013 Club Training Officers

(CTO) workshop will be ndheldrd in over the weekend of November 2 -3 2013. Full details are in the Events section of the Training pages on www.mountaineering.ie. This two-day workshop is for Club Training Officers or for those interested in becoming Club Training Officers. Those attending should have good navigational skills and be ®keenAmanda to support Lynch the is a memberdevelopment of the of Training skills within Team oftheir the club. Wayfarers Association Ursula Timmins and Frank O’Keeffe (with Mick Feehan in background) at the workshop Hillwalking Club ■

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 19 club trip

the ramblers by Patrick Gray The Irish Ramblers Club

Walking the The Ramblers take to the Bangor Trail in to walk from Bangor to Srahmore. Patrick Gray reports

st led the training hikes for us. worst-looking areas, not Tuesday, May 21 , saw us always with complete gathered in Mulranny, where success. Contouring around an early night was had by all. Knocklettercuss to the east, The following day dawned we weaved our way between dry and clear with every small hills. By around 11 prospect of continuing so. By o’clock we were heading arrangement, the hotel downhill along a small provided us with their usual section of recently-built full Irish breakfast at 6:00am. boardwalk, towards The staff throughout our time Tarsaghaunmore River. there could not have been News had come through the more helpful – nothing was previous week that the bridge too much trouble. On the day, there was no longer safe to twenty-two of us felt cross. Thus warned, we had Contouring around Knocklettercuss confident enough to attempt come provided with old the walk. Shortly after runners or other footwear to 7:00am, having picked up our use when we forded the river. “The Beg range of packed lunches, we were on As others searched the area mountains is, I think, the very our bus and heading towards for a suitable fording point, it loneliest place in this country, Bangor, 45 minutes away. We was suggested that we might for the hills themselves are were on our way south on the cross by carefully stepping encircled by this vast area of which was open to all, Bangor Trail just after along some of the remaining trackless bog.” Robert Lloyd affording an opportunity for a 8:00am, walking the first few struts of the bridge, which Praeger (1937) wide standard of walkers to hundred metres of a dry, were just out of the water. experience the beauty and stony path before we began a Soon we were all across and remoteness of the Bangor gentle climb. Soon, the tucking into our packed – Trail. Accommodation had conditions underfoot became lunches. been found in the Mulranny boggy and we found On both sides of the river Park Hotel. A number of older ourselves moving cautiously, there lie the ruins of cottages. It was twenty years ago that a members indicated their step by step, to avoid the We pondered the subsistence group from the Irish willingness to take part in the Ramblers Club last tackled walk and a programme of the Bangor Trail. They based Sunday training hikes was themselves in the now organised. defunct An Óige hostel in We had mixed fortunes Traenlaur and walked north with our training. The first from there to . hike in January had to be cut The following day, after being short (snowstorm); the bused back to Treanlaur, they second went well; the next walked from the hostel to was cancelled (snow again); Newport. Since then, the but the fourth was completed Bangor Trail has not been successfully. The last had to addressed as a club project by be altered and curtailed (bad the Ramblers. weather around Last winter, a group of Lugnaquillia). Ramblers set themselves the Despite these setbacks, a challenge of following the good team spirit was built up Descending to Tarsaghaunmore River All photographs by: EDDIE DELAHUNTY Bangor Trail from Bangor and it was heartening to get 20Erris southIrish Mountain to Srahmore. Log All great support from others in Autumn 2013 club members were informed the club. In particular, we about the proposed walk, were grateful to those who nature of the living that would have been wrested from the desolation around. Perhaps income could have been gleaned from passing traffic on the trail, in its heyday. A 1992 guide published by Mayo County Council said that one of the cottages had been the home of a herdsman for cattle and Crossing the river at the waterfall below Lough Scardaun sheep owned by the local landlord. Pressing on, we passed between Slieve Alp and on a recently maintained track heading towards schedule and a leisurely note found there. It had been well-deserved meal in the to the east. All post-shower, pre-dinner pint left by others of our group hotel, already planning other was desolate around us with was not looking likely. who had been walking in the adventures, especially in the very few signs of wildlife, but Redoubling our efforts, we Letterkeen area and who had coming year of the 50th the views from to made good progress, passing met some of the crew anniversary of the founding of the west, and round to Croagh on our way the only tree on maintaining the trail. our club, the Irish Ramblers. Patrick to the south, were the trail, an oak, tucked into a From here on the trail was The Bangor Trail is clearly magnificent. sheltered hollow. drier, but it went over very shown on OS Sheet 23, but The silent, empty bogland We reached the river at the rough stones until at last we few guides are available for it of Owenduff and Scardaun found ourselves walking the or for the surrounding waterfall under Lough was ahead of us, like a bowl. last few hundred metres on a Nephin Mountains. The Scardaun. This proved to be In the fair conditions of the lovely track along the river isolation was a complete the slowest and most difficult day, it was not too difficult to towards the car park, where change for us, more crossing so far and needed follow the trail, although it is two minibuses and their accustomed as we are to the great care. now, through lack of use or cheery drivers were waiting. Wicklow Mountains. We maintenance, very largely Tramping through the bog We had completed the 25 would recommend the covered by sphagnum moss was energy-sapping but kilometres of the route – not ®BangorFor more Trail information, and the quiet visit the of which has blocked the eventually we began to see in bad for a party with so many IrishBallycroy Ramblers to anyClub group website of at drainage and made the distance the forestry veteran holders of travel www.theramblers.ieprepared walkers.■ conditions underfoot very around Srahmore. passes – and no sight could trying. In one or two places, Regrouping at the Lough have been more welcome. there was encouraging Avoher Hut, we were greatly Later, a tired but happy evidence of work being done cheered by an encouraging bunch of hikers sat down to a to upgrade the trail, by cutting back the moss, to reveal its original stone and gravel surface. At irregular intervals there are newly-erected waymarks which are easy enough to spot. However, on a wet and misty day things might have been very different and we might have had to rely more on our GPS for navigation. We pressed on and a second drum-up was called on the slopes of On the home stretch Tawnyanruddia, quite near theAutumn ruins 2013 of the last inhabited Irish Mountain Log 21 house on the trail. By this time, we were behind club trip

garda mountaineering club by Stephen Gavin The Garda Mountaineering Club

Club members gathered on the beach at Port to begin the first walk of the trip

Gardaí go climbing in Donegal The Garda Mountaineering Club recently organised a members’ hillwalking weekend away in the (Sliabh Liag) area, , Co Donegal. Stephen Gavin reports

th

The Garda Mountaineering On April 11 , fourteen coastline nearly all day. As we some houses in Glenlough Club was founded in 2007. The members headed off after walked, we were kept where the poet Dylan Thomas membership is a mixture of lunch to Donegal. We had a informed about the history of had spent some time. Gardaí, serving and retired, break on the way and arrived the area. At the half-way point, The highest point of the walk and civilians. Most of the in Glencolmcille at about between the hills, we had a was Slievetooey at 472m, members live and work in the 8:00pm. This part of west short break at the remains of where we were in mist for a area, and their main Donegal is well known for its stomping ground is the beautiful scenery and we got a Wicklow Mountains. The club taste of it as we travelled provides a sociable and there.Day 1: We Port checked to Maghera into our healthy outlet for people who accommodation at Áras enjoy hillwalking and other Ghleann Colm Cille. mountaineering activities. We are a small club with a steady membership of The first day started with approximately forty. While breakfast at 7:30am. We met some of the original founding up with four members of members are still with us, and Sliabh Liag Hillwalking Club a number of others have been on the way to the start of our members for a few years now, walk at Port Harbour, which is we are delighted to have been at the side of a tiny, sandy cove joined by some new, younger at the end of a very narrow, members in the last two years. twisty road. The morning was In addition to hillwalking, the cloudy with about 2km club also uses Awesome Walls visibility. in Finglas to practice rope- Shortly after 9:00am we left work and wall-climbing during Port for Maghera, with Patrick the winter months. McBrearty from Sliabh Liag HC One of our objectives this leading the way. A ten-minute year was to explore other steep pull up straight from the mountain ranges in Ireland on car park warmed us up and View from Glenlough, on Day 1 All photogaphs by: STEPHEN GAVIN a more regular basis, so in then we had nice, level 22April ofIrish this Mountain year we decided Log walking with perfect dry, Autumn 2013 to organise a club trip to spongy ground underfoot. We Donegal. had magnificent views of the short time due to low cloud. As stiff breeze, so there was no the afternoon went on, the hanging around at Malinbeg. weather improved and we had Again, the ground was ideal good sunshine for the last hour. for walking – dry but slightly There was a steep climb on spongy. However, unlike the rough ground about 2km from previous day, there were the finish at Maghera, which constant ascents and descents, used up any spare energy we and a few stream crossings had left! We stopped quite a had to be negotiated during lot during the walk to take in the walk to Bunglas. the fantastic scenery and take As we progressed, under the a few photos. The walk took leadership of Marion McGinley about seven hours and we from Sliabh Liag HC, the cliffs covered approximately 18km. of Sliabh Liag became visible. Before our final descent, the Members jokingly referred to views of the beaches around Sliabh Liag itself as ‘Mount Maghera were stunning from Doom,’ because of the clouds high up, and in the distance rolling in over it! The climb to and the its summit at 595m was tough Negotiating One Man’s Pass on Day 2 were for everyone, with the surface visible, with pockets of snow changing from grass to loose still lying on their slopes. rock and then to rocky paths. We all had a very enjoyable There was a marked reduction day, thanks to the relaxed local in conversation levels during guides, and a bowl of fish the climb! It is not for the faint-hearted, We were out for about 5½ chowder, some bread and a After Sliabh Liag, we but four club members hours, and covered pint went down very well in negotiated “One Man’s Pass,” a decided to cross it and there approximately 13km. Nancy’s Bar, Ardara, narrow arête approximately was plenty of cheering when After the walk, we again afterwards. We returned to the 300m long with intimidating all were safely across! adjourned to Carrick for a hostel to freshen up and then drops on both sides. For some, Due to the stunning views, bowl of chowder, refreshments Day 2: Malinbeg to went on to Carrick for dinner this was their first time on an we had numerous stops for and later on for dinner. We Bunglas and a sociable evening. arête and all seemed to enjoy photos and to explore the returned to Glencolmcille later the experience. cliffs, so the pace was nice and Daythat evening3 for a sociable However, just a short while relaxed. We were very lucky drink in the local pub before later we were introduced to with the weather, as we felt returning to the hostel. The second day started off the real “One Man’s Pass,” a some raindrops for about the sunny but a bit cooler with a very narrow scrambling ridge. last 30 minutes of the walk. On the last day, we had planned to see the cliffs from the sea with Paddy Byrne, a local Carrick man who runs boat trips, but unfortunately, due to the worsening weather, the boat trip was cancelled. ®WeIf all you returned would like to to Dublin come hillwalkingsafely after with a veryus, or enjoyable want more informationtrip to Donegal. about the group, please contact us via the Contacts page on the club’s website. We put a strong emphasis on health and safety in the mountains, so ‘No Boots, No Walk.’ A calendar of walks is now available on the website, www.gsmountaineering.com. All downhill to ® Stephen Gavin is Secretary of Maghera, on Day 1 the Garda Mountaineering Club ■

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 23 club spec

the hillwalkers club by Warren Lawless The Hillwalkers Club

The Hillwalkers Club celebrates 20 years The Hillwalkers Club has been twenty years a’growing since its foundation in 1993…but it is just another eighteen years to the centenary of its founding organisation, An Óige, which was established in 1931. Warren Lawless reports

Wicklow and their immediate while St Stephen’s Day brings environs. The highlights of our walks on Howth. Our New

ANNE-MARIE KEOGHAN walking year include long Year’s Day hike is, traditionally, weekends, when the club an ascent of from ventures further afield to the Glen of Imaal. other mountain ranges across The club also regularly Ireland. organises hiking holidays Christmas is a special time further afield. Frequent trips and the club arranges a festive to England, Scotland and party, with hikes before and Wales are an essential part of afterwards. Last year’s event the club’s calendar and have was a case in point, with given members many holidays memorable hikes in the snow- in delightful places, and bedecked Mournes, coupled unforgettable memories. with a Yuletide gala dinner in Beyond Ireland and Britain, Summiting can be challenging…but we always get there in the end! Carlingford, and capped off by there have been numerous a Sunday hike in the Cooleys. ventures to all parts of the The annual Holly Hike continent, including the Italian involves a pre-Christmas walk and Bavarian Alps, the that ends at a Wicklow tavern Bernese Oberland, the Hillwalkers and is followed by festive Carpathian Alps and the Club carols and general merriment, Pyrenees, amongst many DONAL FINN

th An TheÓige Hillwalkers Mountaineering Club Club. whatever the weather or celebrates its 20 anniversary season. this year, having being formed The requirements for in 1993 as the successor to participation in these hikes are proper equipment, However, because of An Óige’s reasonable fitness and some long history of involvement in experience, as hikes are hillwalking, it is not typically 16-20km with circa unreasonable to trace the 800m ascent. Most of our club’s lineage back to the weekly hikes are in the Dublin foundation of An Óige in 1931. and Wicklow Mountains but Based in Dublin, the occasionally we make forays to Hillwalkers Club currently has the Blackstairs, Cooleys or around 120 members. Like our Mournes. Our ethos is really sister groups in An Óige, we quite straightforward – we are hike every week using private a friendly, welcoming club buses hired for the day. Except which combines a lively social for public holiday weekends dimension with a busy hiking (when other activities are programme. Working on navigation and mountain skills can be fun afoot), you can be guaranteed Variety is the spice of hiking, 24that theIrish club Mountain bus will beLog and the club provides Autumn 2013 leaving at 10:00am every members with opportunities Sunday from Burgh Quay, to walk beyond Dublin, The summit always brings out the smiles in members of the Hillwalkers!

DON REILLY

more. Each holiday is unique something the club tries to activities. The current continue providing an and, for many, has proven to share, and many within the committee is a nice mix of old opportunity for people to be memorable, with members club accept it as a way of stalwarts and new blood, enjoy hillwalking, to provide bringing back memories of giving back to their club. providing a beneficial blend of training which enhances unforgettable landscapes, The club keeps in contact experience and fresh responsibility and enjoyment good craic and ultimately great with its members via regular perspectives. Indeed, many of the hills, and to offer an personal achievements. newsletters, email, Facebook have served on the committee interesting and varied Apart from the highly (search for The Hillwalkers over the years and others have programme of hikes rewarding and fulfilling aspect Club) and its own website, done great service as hike throughout Ireland and of our hiking activities, the with information on all leaders and co-ordinators, so abroad. social element is the true gem ongoing activities, including a it is appropriate here to thank ®WhyFor more not comeinformation, along visit and the them all for their dedication of the club. Over the years, it comprehensive archive of all Hillwalkers’join us some website Sunday at morning? and for all the enjoyment that has sustained interest and our newsletters since our www.hillwalkersclub.comA warm welcome awaits■ you! enjoyment when sore feet or founding. has flowed from their efforts. poor weather could have Our voluntary committee is In looking forward to the otherwise dampened spirits. elected at the club’s AGM and next eighteen years to our From set dancing in Leenane, is the engine behind the club’s centenary, the club hopes to after being soaked on the hills, to tall tales in the Blue Loo Bar

in Glengarriff, or indeed a LAWLESS WARREN good laugh in our beloved Palace Bar in Fleet Street, it creates a bond and provides the silver lining to any cold, wet or windy day. Social activities include days on indoor climbing walls, camping, comedy nights, theatre, greyhound racing, orienteering by night, meals out, discos and even Shannon cruises. The club organises regular training in map use, navigation and mountain skills as well as All Sunday hikes lead in the evening to the Palace Bar on Fleet Street, Dublin, the social heart of the club! club-tailoredAutumn 2013 leadership skills, which ultimately aims to coach Irish Mountain Log 25 new leaders for our hikes. The responsibility for leading is youth climbing

climbing trip by Paul Swail Youth Development Officer

Andrew Malwhinney learning to lead on the Expectancy Slab, Glendalough, Co Wicklow

Wicklow youth trip

his trip was fantastic! Wednesday, July 17th. The Mother Nature played kids from up north met in ball, making the Comber, Co Down. Later, we climbing venues world-class; arrived at the IMC hut where there were some awesome, the other kids and instructors enthusiastic and very talented met us. When everyone got coaches; and there was a settled in, we went down to fantastic bunch of young Glendalough; it was a long people to hang out with! What walk in the blistering heat. more could you ask for? We bouldered on an For five days in July 2013, outstanding rock which had twenty-two young people from some awesome problems; I all over Ireland experienced got a few but I couldn’t quite just how good the traditional top one of them. climbing and is in The next day, Paul took this country. The trip was Sakara and me up a classic basedT in the Irish route called Sarcophagus. It Mountaineering Club (IMC) was an amazing route, which Hut in Glendalough – thanks, was exciting as we had to Sé! – giving us access to the multi-pitch. cliffs in the Wicklow Mountains On Friday, we went to as well as to Quarry and in Dublin. It Portrane Beach. was definitely the warmest Anna Nelson, who started day of the trip. The holds climbing four years ago were greasy and hard to hold. through participation in a I completed some routes and programme based out of the some hard boulders. Pitch of Sarcophagus (HVS), Glendalough. The well-protected nature climbing wall at the Ganaway Everyone was very hot and of this route makes it an excellent route choice for young climbers All photographs by: SWAIL PAUL Activity Centre near felt quite tired due to the Newtownards,26 Irish Mountain Co Down, Log takes heat. Autumn 2013 up the story: The next day, we had a “We travelled to Wicklow on choice to go to Glendalough leading or practice leading, or who were attending their first go bouldering in Portrane. I youth trip, to teenagers who chose to go to Portrane; it is have reached a lead-climbing amazing for bouldering. We level and the die-hard tried a lot of problems; some boulderers venturing onto were easy, some proved much their first multi-pitch routes!

harder. Carson tried an 8a This trip was aimed at Photograph: COLLECTION SWAIL PAUL which Michael Duffy had put young people who have an up, called the Leviathan. He interest in climbing, so they made good progress and is could meet up, build determined to go back to top it. relationships and learn about On the way back to the hut we the health and wellbeing that stopped at a shop to get ice comes hand-in-hand with lollies. climbing, as well as On Sunday, the last day of developing their trad- our trip, we went back to climbing skills in a safe and Paul Swail assists young climber on Dalkey Quarry where we did enjoyable environment. I her first trad lead, Honeypot Crack some top roping. It was cooler, think all of these boxes were (S), Dalkey Quarry so it felt much easier to climb. well and truly ticked! Overall, the trip was great and A fitting way to sum up this so much fun. We also had warm article is with a few words by weather with no rain. The Rowan Greig from the boulders and climbs were Hanging Rockers Climbing extraordinary and enjoyable to Club, Fermanagh. It was his there was nothing to be scared climbing teachers again.” climb.” first trip away with of in heights because you’re I would like to say a big Mountaineering Ireland: safe on a rope. I took that thanks to the coaches, Mike hroughout the week we “I had such a great time in advice and I simply got rid of Smith, Damien O’Sullivan, Eoin visited Acorn Buttress, the Wicklow Mountains and I the fear. I learned loads of new Murphy, Ricky Bell and Michael Pyramid Route, the main really miss it. The weather was skills, tips and tricks and it Duffy; both Dolores Horan and cliff – Glendalough, Dalkey absolutely amazing. The trip really helped me for the future. Veronica Kelly for helping out Quarry and Portrane Beach. was well organised and well I want to thank everyone for at the hut; Mountaineering The experience and prepared. The teachers were their amazing teaching and Ireland for■ its support; the qualifications of the staff really supportive, caring, fun enthusiasm. I highly weather gods; and, most present meant that we were and helpful. I was scared of recommend this climbing trip importantly, the young able to cater for each individual heights but they helped me and to anyone. I really want to climbers, who were all on the trip, from young people supported me and told me come back and work with the brilliant!

T

Sakara Stacey bouldering at Portrane, Co Dublin

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 27 youth climbing

competitions by Damien O’Sullivan Talent Development Officer

Irish youth perform very well in UK and Europe Results from the bouldering competitions

or some of Ireland’s top competition in a while. young climbers, it has Dominic’s results over the been a busy summer of past few competitions climbing in a wide range of combined to rank him number bouldering competitions across one in the world in his age EuropeanEurope and Youth further afield. category (Youth A). While this ChampionshipsIn May, Darragh O’Connor, is a remarkable feat in its own Jamie Rankin and Dominic right, it is even more Burns competed at the impressive when you consider that Dominic only moved up for into that category this year, boulderingth in Grindelwald, making him one of the Switzerland. Dominic was youngest climbers in the placed 6 overall, while category. Dominic Burns: ranked No 1 in the world in his age category (Youth A) Darragh and Jamie finished EuropeanShortly after Youth the competition further down the field but put Championshipsin L’Argentiére, the team made in promising performances their way east to Imst in amongstF a very strong field of Austria to compete in the competitors. AtEuropean the end of Youth June, Dominic Cup. for lead Burns and Darragh O’Connor climbing, with both Dominic retaining his champion’s title performance previously travelled to Sofia in Bulgaria to and Eoin competing in Youth A. from the previous year. undreamt of by the vast compete in the first round of They both climbed well to Throughout all of these majority of Irish climbers. the Both finish inside the top half of the Junior events the climbers have been In turn, this élite group of climbersst put in amazing field. supported and coached by British Bouldering Series young climbers is inspiring the performances,th with Dominic On a seemingly unstoppable Eddie Cooper, the next generation to train hard, taking 1 place and Darragh roll, Dominic Burns competed Mountaineering Ireland train smart and to realise that, taking 10 place – two Irish in the final round of the Climbing Team coach. Eddie’s ■ competitors finishing in the top in enthusiasm, expertise, with the right approach and ten of a European preliminary. Liverpool. He took second dedication and sheer hard methods, Irish climbers can Towards the end of July, a place, enough to clinch overall work has helped these compete and win at the very team of five headed to victory in the series, thereby climbers to reach levels of highest level L’Argentiére in France to compete in the second round of the European Youth Cup. Andrew Colligan competed in the Junior category, while Dominic Burns, Eoin Acton, Jamie Rankin and Darragh O’Connor competed in Youth A. The standard at the competition was sky-high – almost as high as the temperatures! All members of the team putnd in strong performances. Dominic finished 2 in thYouth A; Eoin just missed the top ten, finishing in 11 ; while Jamie and Darragh both finished inside the top 20. Andrew Members of Team Mountaineering Ireland at the Youth Climbing Series Grand Final in in June finished just outside the top 20 28in the JuniorIrish Mountain category, Loga good Autumn 2013 result for his first big Climbing competitions Overview of upcoming competition season

or the 2013/2014 is in the IBL that new climbing climbing season, partnerships will be formed Mountaineering Ireland and trips planned; there have is organising a host of varied even been a few couples who and exciting competitions for first met at an IBL event! climbers of all ages, abilities This year there are four and experiences. From new rounds to the league. At each Irish Bouldering League action climbers, who may have only round there will be been climbing for a few weeks, approximately twenty boulder to seasoned stalwarts, boulder problems. Each climber gets to or route climbers,Irish Bouldering young and try all of the problems. If you old,League there will be a competition manage to climb the problem there for you to test yourself. on your first attempt, you get the difficulty of the route boulder problems. Each Running since the early 10 points; on your second increasing as the climber competitor is given an amount 1990s, the attempt, you get 7 points; on progresses. The winner is the of time to attempt each (IBL) is reputedly the your third attempt, you get 4 The Irish Bouldering person who gets the highest – problem. The winner is the longest continuously-running points; on your fourth or any Championship simple, really! climber who completes the Fbouldering competition in the subsequent attempt (you have The Irish Lead Climbing most of the problems. world. It is a competition in an unlimited number of Championship Competition climbing which novice climbers can attempts), you get two points. (IBC) is also provides the opportunity to get meet and climb with some of establishing itself as an together socially, to find out the very best climbers in the important fixture in the Irish who has been putting in the country. It is like being able to (ILCC) is now climbing calendar. The IBC has training time and effort. have a kick-around with the entering its fifth year. Each a different format to the IBL. At Regardless of age, experience national team at the national year, competitor numbers have ■ the IBC, climbers complete an or ability, there is a competition stadium; I don’t think many grown steadily. For the first initial qualifying round before there for you to take part in other sports or competitions time, this year there will be a competingIrish Bouldering in a final. In theLeague and enjoy. Come along and give can offer that. separate competition for junior th final,Round there 1 usuallyDublin, are Gravity eight Climbingit a tryCentre, 12 October The atmosphere at the IBL is and senior competitors. Round 2 Cork, 30th November almost always supportive and Competitors at the ILCC Round 3 Belfast, 11th January friendly and even the closest generally climb two qualifier Round 4 Dublin, Awesome Walls, 1st February rivals help each other to climb routes and, depending on how at their best. The IBL is also a they do on these routes, they Irish Lead Climbing Championships great social occasion, getting climb a final route. Climbers Juniors Dublin, Awesome Walls, 19th October climbersIrish Lead from Climbing all corners of the score more points the higher Seniors Dublin, Awesome Walls, 23rd November countryChampionship together action on the day. It they go on the final route, with Irish Bouldering Championships Juniors Dublin, Gravity Climbing Centre, 15th February Seniors Belfast, 22nd March Youth Climbing Series Round 1 North region Gortatole, 25th January South region Cork, 25th January

Round 2 North region Tollymore, 15th March South region University College Dublin, 15th March

Final Awesome Walls, Dublin, 5th April Grand Final Ratho, Edinburgh, Scotland, 14th June

Irish Mountain Log 29 FEATURES HILLWALKING

Looking west from Cummeenbaun toward The Pocket, Lauragh and Kilmakilloge Harbour, in . Around the Arderins Words and photos by ADRIAN HENDROFF All photographs by: ADRIAN HENDROFF

ountain lists in Britain and Ireland The number of mountain lists has also increased. have been a subject of continuous Nowadays, hillwalkers have a choice of lists ranging Minterest to generations of hillwalkers from the Munros, Corbetts, Grahams and Donalds in for over a century. Reaching the Scotland; the Nuttalls, Hewitts, Deweys and county summits on those lists has become tops in England and Wales; the Wainwrights and an activity of dedication, inspiration and, at times, Birketts in the Lake District; to the Dillons, even obsession to many. Vandeleur-Lynams, Arderins and county tops in When Sir Hugh Munro published the first list of Ireland. Scotland’s 3,000-foot mountains in 1891, he had little At the time of writing, 1,900 people had idea the influence this would have on later compleated the 282 Munros on the Scottish generations of the hillwalking community. He Mountaineering Club’s website, and 211 people had probably also did not expect his name to become summited all of the 2,000-foot mountains (the synonymous with those mountains. Sir Munro earliest by Ed Moss in 1951) in England and Wales, himself did not compleat his own list. That according to the Long Distance Walkers Association achievement went to Rev AE Robertson in 1901, who register. From that same register, it is interesting to was the first Munroist. It then took more than 20 note that the firstMountainviews.ie, person, Stephen Murphy, to years before the next person compleated the list, Rev complete Ireland’s 2,000-ft mountains did so in 1978, AR Burn in 1923. Thereafter, the numbers of over 70 years after the first Munroist! Today, there WALK A FEWMunroists HUNDRED increased year METRES by year and, WESTWARD today, about are still only 18 names listed there. In a register 150 names are added to the register annually. maintained by only two people FROM THE SUMMIT OF CUMMEENBAUN AND A have currently completed the Vandeleur-Lynams and FABULOUS PANORAMA AWAITS YOU the Arderins. The statistics above prove that peak-bagging is still very much in its infancy in Ireland compared to the 30 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 UK. However, we have come a long way over the last decade or so, with a tenfold increase in people logging 50 summits or more on Mountainviews.ie. Rev CRP Vandeleur. A Guide To Ireland’s Mountain With that in mind, what exactly are the Vandeleur- SummitsThe Arderins, on the other hand, are Ireland’s 404 Lynams and Arderins? The Vandeleur-Lynams are the summits over 500m with a prominence of 30m+. A 269 summits in Ireland over 600m and with a 15m+ comprehensive discussion on the origins of these prominence (‘prominence’ is the height of a summit lists may be found in  above the highest col to the nearest most prominent by MountainViews. summit). They are named after the late , I was fortunate to have completed my round of the who originally created the list in 1952 with help from Vandeleur-Lynams in 2009 on ’s South Top The auThor Adrian Hendroff is a member of Mountaineering Ireland, the Mountain Training Association and the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild. He is the author of three books, a contributor to many walking magazines and a Mountain Skills instructor. For more details, visit his website www.adrianhendroff.com.

Lough Tay and the mountains beyond from the summit of at sunset, in .

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 31 FEATURES HILLWALKING

The wild and complex landscape north of Coomnahorna, in County Kerry. IT WAS NOT UNTIL I VISITED DOAN, IN THE MOURNES, THAT I STARTED

in the Derryveagh Mountains, sharing the moment on TO APPRECIATE THE BEAUTY AND a wet, windy and misty day with my friends Iain VALUE OF THESE TOPS Miller and Caoimhe Gleeson. I was aware of the existence of the Arderins list at the time on Mountainviews.ie, but completing them was Dingle, All photographs by: ADRIAN HENDROFF something I did not plan on doing, at least not upon Iveragh & Beara Donegal, Sligo & Leitrim finishing the Vandeleur-Lynams. There were, of course, many hills between 500m to 600m that I had already climbed at that time – the better of me. I used further recces for my well-known ones like Ben Bulben, Great , and Luggala, Slieve League and , and some guidebooks as excuses for visiting more 500m to subsidiary tops like , Benlettery, Búcán, 600m tops. I was pleasantly amazed by the quality of FromCoomacloghane High Places, and Mackoght that I did not realise I the landscape at every turn. It brought me to had done during my round of the Vandeleur-Lynams. summits such as Beenatoor and Knockmulanane – It was not until I visited the summit of Doan in the which features a view of almost all the hills, valleys Mournes in early 2010, during a recce for my book and coastline of central Dingle – and the majestic that I started to appreciate the coastal scenery with its sea-cliffs and sea-stacks of beauty and value of our 500m to 600m tops. In the Slievetooey in southwest Donegal. book, I described the view from Doan as ‘...a circular It was then that I realised how close I was to cluster of brown peaks that soared like mighty giants, completing the Arderins. I was only around 40 some summits rocky and rugged, other domes summits away from finishing the list, with a protruding in the distance like priceless pearls.’ collection of tops remaining in the Antrim hills and After that experience on Doan, curiosity got the the , and yet more to do in west Cork, Kerry

Rainbow over Errigal as seen from Crocknafarragh, in .

32 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 Ascending Brassel Mountain with Broaghnabinnia in the background, in the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks, County Kerry.

MY FAVOURITE ARDERINS

and Donegal. I’ve had many memorable mountain days during my final push, all savoured either alone What follows is my Top 10 list of Arderins in the or in the company of my wife Una and close friends, 500m to 600m height range. I’ve left out the 600m+ and many of them at dusk or at dawn. Arderins, since they are part of the Vandeleur- These are memories I’ll treasure to the end…the Lynams and I wanted to highlight the ones below exhilarating circuit of Coomnahorna until sundown, 600m. It’s been a difficult decision to come up with with an interesting descent on steep, mixed ground the final 10, with popular hills such as Ben Bulben, with overflowing mountain streams, all under a night 10.,Luggala, Benchoona, Wicklow Raghtin Mountains More and (595m) Slieve Foye sky full of stars… the lengthy approach along the narrowly missing the cut. Here they are anyway, in remote Owencrovarra valley in Derryveagh on a reverse order: bitterly cold day and then walking off the length of hills from Crockglass to Grogan More, which included waiting with my camera and tripod on the exposed Luggala happened to be the second hill I ascended in summit of Crocknafarragh for clouds to clear and Ireland after in the 1990s. It is a hill that then being rewarded with a rainbow above Errigal… I’ve shared with members of the family and many watching the sun set over Clew Bay, Corraun, Achill friends, so it has a rather special place in my books. and the Nephins from the northeast top of Claggan It’s the perfect to get your kids and beginners Mountain in north Mayo on a stormy day laced with 9.hooked Doan, on Mournehillwalking, Mountains and a fantastic (593m) summit from spells of dazzling evening lightnd breaking through dark which to savour a high-level Wicklow sunrise or clouds. th sunset. Finally, at 17:42 on May 22 , 2013, I was fortunate to stand on the summit of my 404 Arderin, Coomataggart in the Shehy/ area in east Doan rises proudly as a singular summit in an area of Kerry. The weather gods have never been kind to me flat ground between Lough Shannagh and Ben Crom. on my final summit days whilst completing the Its location in the heart of the Mournes makes it ideal Dillons and the Vandeleur-Lynams, but on this to appreciate the Silent Valley and all the occasion a gentle wind, wispy clouds and blue sky surrounding peaks in a circular sweep. The proximity greeted me throughout. The views of west Cork and 8.of the Brassel Shannagh Mountain, and Bencrom MacGillyCuddy’s rivers provides Reeksgood Kerry went as far as the eye could see. I felt content, (575m)camping areas for a chance to summit at dusk or at happy and humbled at the same time. dawn. Setting out to complete any mountain list is a personal decision and the accomplishment an even more personal occasion. The reward, ecstasy and emotion of reaching such a goal can be quite Brassel is part of the Reeks massif…and yet it might overwhelming. For hillwalkers in Ireland, what could feel like it’s not. Its location and elevation from the  Autumnbe better 2013 than to have a go at a list that offers the main Reeks’ ridge presents a slightly awkward Irish Mountain Log 33 greatest of all hill challenges – a complete round of approach from the north. From the south, it’s a long the Arderins. drive down into and into FEATURES HILLWALKING

The landscape of across Achill Sound from Corraun Hill, in County Mayo. THE AIRY VISTA FROM BENWISKIN INCLUDES PLAINS, COASTLINE

7.Cummeenduff Corraun Hill, Glen Countyto begin Mayoa steep (524m) ascent up its AND HILLS – MAKING THIS ONE OF slopes, with fine views dominated by the mighty THE FINEST ARDERINS TO CLIMB Broaghnabinnia.

All photographs by: ADRIAN HENDROFF Corraun Hill is in one of the finest areas to explore in Achill/Corraun. There are fascinating corries to the east of the summit and one has a choice of spurs to approach the summit plateau, from which glorious continuous grandeur, Slieve League is probably the high-level views may be savoured. The best view of finest stretch of sea-cliffs on mainland Ireland. The 6.all awaitsBencorrbeg, on the summit of Corraun (577m) Hill itself, where cliff-edge route to its summit from Amharc Mór over you can fully appreciate the landscape around and 4.Scregeighter, Drumnalifferny along the Mountain, airy crest of Derryveagh Keeringear, and beyond Achill Sound. Mountainsover One Man’s (596m) Pass, is one of the finest coastal routes the country has to offer.

This is the classic Arderin to climb in Connemara, if you had to pick one. It has everything a mountain has to offer the hillwalker: a long walk-in on the west end Plan an approach from the depths of Dunlewy and of , a steep ascent, scrambling you’ll be in for a treat! Some of Ireland’s wildest 5.opportunities, Slieve League, glorious southwest views and Donegalplenty of rock! (595m) mountain scenery awaits you by taking in the entire HavingBest Irishsummited, Walks, there’s the added bonus of bagging length of the Poisoned Glen and then gaining access Bencorr and Mountain to go with it! to the rocky, granite mountains beyond. A full traverse covering spot heights 454m, 485m and Lough Maumbeg are added bonuses before gaining In Joss Lynam terms Slieve League Drumnalifferny’s summit. The views are stunning the “pièce de résistance of the Irish coast.” It truly is, throughout, and you’ll even have rocky slabs and for only the sea-cliffs at on Achill Island vertiginous pinnacles to play with at the cliff-edge can claim to rival it in terms of height. However, for beyond the summit!

Looking across Lough Inagh to Derryclare Mountain, Bencorr and Bencorrbeg at dawn, in .

34 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 FEATURES HILLWALKING

Having a snack on the summit of Doan, in the Mournes, Co Down. 3. Coomnahorna, Dunkerron Mtns (590m)

projecting northeastward and down an attractive ridge The complex landscape around Coomnahorna in to the plains. The airy vista from Benwiskin also County Kerry is one of the finest mountain areas in 1.includes Cummeenbaun, a cocktail of wide Caha plains, Mountains extensive (510m) coastline Ireland to explore. The horseshoe south of the and surrounding hills – all making this one of the finest summit provides a good taste of what the area has to Arderins to climb. offer: the mighty cliffs east of Coomcallee, the hanging corrie that houses Lough Coomcallee, the magnificent coum between Coomcallee and It was a difficult choice between Benwiskin and Coomnahorna, and views from the summit itself, Cummeenbaun – but for remoteness, the number of 2.especially Benwiskin, of the wildDartry mountain Mountains landscape (514m) to the possible route choices and overall views, north. The remoteness, variety and quality of the Cummeenbaun comes up trumps. Its summit landscape firmly places Coomnahorna in my Top 3. overlooks the remote valleys of Glantrasna and Glanrastel. It may be approached directly from either of these valleys, or as a culmination of a more The stunning profile of this limestone escarpment in demanding horseshoe over its tops. Walk a few is best viewed from the road at hundred metres westward from its summit and a Keeloges. Thankfully, access is now permitted from fabulous panorama awaits you: there’s Knockowen Gleniff at the Coillte entrance. This is the most towering above Glanrastel, the hills of Knockatee■ and exhilarating approach for the hillwalker, consisting of Knockanoughanish rising above green fields, the sharp Approachinga very steep grassyBenwiskin’s slope sharptoward northeastern the summit edge, ridge in the Dartrypeaks Mountains, of the Pocket, County lush Sligo. green lands around Lauragh, and views beyond the summit down a deep gully. distant views of Hog’s Head, and the spine Across this yawning abyss is a sharp fin of rock of the Iveragh Mountains across Bay

Irish Mountain Log 35 FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

Part II: Iron Age to Medieval

Archaeologist MARTIN FITZPATRICK continues his series on the archaeological remains that may be encountered in the Irish uplands. In this instalment he looks at monuments from the Iron Age through to the medieval period.

Our forays into the Irish hills often bring us face to face with archaeological * * * * * * monuments, many of which may not The early farmers in Ireland were drawn to have been previously recorded. The the uplands where the lighter, free-draining previous article detailed many of the prehistoric soils and thinner woodland suited their monuments from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages basic tools. The transition from the Bronze which may be encountered on our approach to and Age to the Iron Age is often regarded as the ‘Dark during our upland excursions. This article continues Ages’ due to the apparent scarcity of monuments with monuments from the Iron Age through to the coupled with a deterioration in the climate after medieval period. 1000BC. This series aims to inform readers about the types In upland regions, climate fluctuations led to the of monuments they may encounter in the hills and to development of blanket bogs and a loss of arable encourage all users of the hills to assist in preserving land. Studies have shown that there was not a large- such monuments by recording and reporting them. All photographs by: MARTIN FITZPATRICK scale abandonment of the uplands but that instead Working together in this way, we can ensure that the land was used differently and communities monumentsEnclosure in are the catalogued Burren, Co and Clare afforded legal adapted. The Iron Age was marked by woodland protection, allowing them to be enjoyed by future regeneration, spread of bogs* and a reduction in generations. cultivation caused by the decline of the soil quality over a long period of usage. Archaeological surveys in the Barrees Valley, Co Cork, by William O’Brien included the excavation of a small hut site that revealed a substantial sub- rectangular house of Iron-Age date. A circular stone enclosure and pre-bog field walls of this period were also recorded and excavated. While the findings highlight the difficulty in identifying and dating hut sites and enclosures without scientific analysis, they also emphasise the need to record the features we encounter in the hills, as it is possible that many are the remnants of our prehistoric landscape. When the rain pours down in the hills and we seek *Local Worlds: Early Settlement Landscapes and Upland Farming shelter,in South-West it is often Ireland, inby structures William O’Brien; associated published with by the Collins traditionPress (2010). of transhumance that we find it.

36 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

Transhumance is the seasonal movement of people with their livestock between fixed summer and winter pastures. In montane regions there is vertical transhumance, which implies movement between higher pastures in summer and lower valleys in winter. In Ireland, the practice was known as booleying and the term ‘buaile’ refers to an enclosure that cattle were herded into at night. The herders lived in small huts or shielings that were constructed of stone. The construction method used in these enclosures and huts isIrish such Mountain that it is Logoften impossible to date them precisely and this difficulty is compounded by the fact that the practice continued in some parts into the twentieth century. The Summer 2013 edition of the (IML 106, p59) featured a short piece on a previously unrecorded shelter identified on the slopes of Keadeen, Co Wicklow, with a tradition of usage over 100 years ago. Remains of hut on slopes of , Co Mayo Winterage is the opposite of booleying and is likely to have been used from an early date, when winter growth of grass and storage facilities did not exist. The practice continues in the Burren today where herds of cattle are left out on the hills during the winter months and brought down to the lower ground with the spring growth. Like the booleying island examples are also known from cliffs and tradition, this would have involved the construction naturally sloping ground. Those on the coast of simple huts and shelters, many of which survive on probably developed from trading centres on the sea. the ground today. The natural defences are supplemented by building a stone or earthen bank and fosse across the narrowest part of the promontory. * * * * * * Easily recognisable monuments of the Late The Early Christian period (circa 500-1000AD) saw HILLFORTSBronze Age and Iron Age are the hillforts, the introduction of new technologies and a new promontory forts and hilltop enclosures that religious culture. It also saw a diffusedth power we occasionally come across in the hills. structure, with the country being divided into over a hundred local kingdoms by the 7 century. These

kingdomsth were ultimately subjectth to kings, with the Uí Néill dynasty dominating the political scene from Usually following the contours, these large the late 6 century to the 10 century. This period of enclosures on hilltops can range in size from three to th th history saw woodland clearance and an extension of twenty-two hectares and have a single (univallate) or grasslands and, between the 5 and 10 centuries a number (multivallate) of enclosing banks. While the AD,Ringfort the construction in the Burren, of thousandsCo Clare of ringforts in the exact dating of these monuments is uncertain, it is Irish landscape. believed they were constructed from the mid-Bronze Age onwards. There are some 90 examples known in the country and they are likely to have been used as enclosed settlements, places of refuge or ceremonial sites. An atlas of hillforts in Britain and Ireland is currently being compiled by the School of Archaeology at The University of . This survey aims to produce a paper and an online searchable HILLTOPatlas linked toENCLOSURES Google Earth. Contributions from the public are welcome and all relevant information can be found on the University of Oxford website.

Hilltop enclosures are similar to hillforts in many PROMONTORYrespects but are smaller, FORTS less well defined and less likely to have been used for defensive purposes. They date from prehistory to the medieval period.

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 37 Promontories on the coast, fortified by banks and/or fosses, are known as coastal promontory forts, while FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

Cashels farmsteads, with the defences protecting the houses and outbuildings in the interior, but they may also have been used for social gatherings. have the same characteristics as ringforts ENCLOSURESbut differ in that they are constructed entirely of stone. The walls of the cashels can often be up to 6m wide and 3m high.

Enclosures are usually distinguished by their characteristics, such as their large or small size, or lack of entrance features, which sets them apart from Cashel in the Burren, Co Clare ringforts or other classifiable enclosures. The term usually refers to a monument that consists of an RINGFORTS enclosing bank surrounding a circular or sub-circular area, and with no apparent entrance, but a number of these ‘enclosures’ may prove to be raths or cashels. Due to the lack of diagnostic remains, it is difficult to suggest a period of construction or use for these The most widespread and characteristic of monuments. Sites which are now destroyed but monuments in the Irish countryside, the ringfort which have been detected from aerial photographs, generally consists of a circular, subcircular, oval or marked on various Ordnance Survey maps or locally D-shaped area enclosed by one or more banks of ECCLESIASTICALdescribed as circular or sub-circularSITES areas defined by earth or stone, or a combination of both. They were banks and/or fosses, are usually categorised in the often located on sloping ground affording visibility of archaeological record as enclosures. the surrounding countryside. Earthen ringforts usually have an external fosse surrounding the bank, and a causewayed entrance Early Christian settlement saw the construction of giving access to the interior. The bank is generally ecclesiastical sites throughout the countryside. These built by piling up inside the fosse the material monuments, which were generally much larger than obtained from digging the latter. ringforts, were usually sub-circular in shape and enclosed by earthen banks. The construction of ringforts in Irelandth dates from the early medieval period (circa 400 AD to 1100 AD) The monastic remains are defined by a simple early and possibly continued up to the 17 century. ‘Rath’ stone oratory with a doorway in the wall. Other is the term applied to those ringforts of earthen features includeth bullaun stones, cross slabs, saint’s construction, while ‘cashel’ refers to those beds, high crosses, houses and holy wells. constructed from stone. From the 8 century onwards, some of these sites A single bank and fosse is the most usual form of developed into monasteries and in some cases evolved into modern towns. thSaint thKevin is thought to

All photographs by: MARTIN FITZPATRICK rath, but double (bivallate) and triple (trivallate) banks do occur. The number of banks is thought to be have founded the monastery at Glendalough in the a reflection of the status of the owner/occupier of the Wicklow Mountains in the 6 or 7 century, and its Gallarus Oratory, Comonument, Kerry: associated rather withthan pilgrimage an added defence.to Mt Brandon proximity to the surrounding mountains cannot have The function of ringforts was generally as enclosed been by chance. While the scope of this article does not include a commentary on church development, it should be recognised that fromAnnals the of earliest the Four times the Masters)hills and mountains played an important role in the church culture. The record of the death of a pilgrim at Glendalough PILGRIMAGEin 951AD (described in the highlights another aspect of the life that was connected with higher ground: pilgrimage.

It seems that we are re-discovering pilgrimage walks every other day now, and many of these lead to or through our mountains. We are all aware of the traditions of pilgrimage associated with (Co Mayo), Slieve League (Co Donegal) and (Co Kerry). However, these and many others are likely to be pre-Christian in origin and were originally associated with prehistoric sites and the Celtic festivals of Lughnasa. Autumn 2013 Today, the remnants of the Christian pilgrimages that we experience in the hills include the pilgrim FEATURES ARCHAEOLOGY

HOLY WELLS roads, beehive huts, cross-decorated stones, wayside crosses, oratories and churches.

A holy well can be described as any site where the water is used as a focal point of devotion or ritual. While many appear first as Christian monuments, much of the tradition associated with them is pre- Christian. With some 3,000 holy wells in the country, they vary in appearance from simple natural springs in the ground to chambers with steps and

Holy well in the Burren, Co Clare

surrounding walls. Often dedicated to a particular saint, they usually have a pattern on the saint’s day. Votive offerings and specific trees or bushes are sometimes found in association with these monuments, while cures for specific ailments are ascribed to individual wells. The well at Mám Éan (Maumeen) in Connemara reminds us yet again that the mountains were revered landscapes. Devoted to St Patrick, the well The auThor and pattern associated with it are pre-Christian in Martin Fitzpatrick is a origin and thought to be associated with the festival professional archaeologist, an avid hillwalker and a of Lughnasa. St Patrick reputedly spent the night at member of Mountaineering this well as part of his journey through the mountain Ireland. If you have any range. Having reached this spot, he blessed the well queries in relation to Standing stone inscribed with cross and spent the night on a rock bed. Tradition■ has it archaeological monuments that it was the limit of his journey, as next day he in the uplands, you can contact him at martin@ blessed Connemara and turned back. Anybody who archconsultancyltd.com. has ever arrived at the well as part of the Challenge will know exactly how he felt!

Remains of cloghans on pilgrimage route to Mount Brandon, Co Kerry

Irish Mountain Log 39 FEATURES HILLWALKING WITH DISABILITY

Members of the Beyond Horizons 2013 Trek at the IMC Hut in Glendalough, Co Wicklow, last May

Fit for the summit RAFAL STACHOWICZ led a group of amputees on a ten-day trek through the Wicklow Mountains last May in the Wicklow Horizon 2013 Trek

legs. A secondary aim of the expedition was to promote travel and sports amongst people with physical disabilities, a group who are often unnecessarily excluded from such activities. Jan Mela (24), the founder and chairperson of Poza n the second half of May this year, walkers in Horyzonty, is a good example of the way that the Wicklow Mountains might have come amputees can engage in sports at the highest levels. across a quite unusual group of ten hikers. Jan suffered an accident in 2002, at the age of 13, ICovering ten to fifteen kilometres each day, resulting in the loss of his left lower leg and his right the group was heading for the main objective forearm. Two years later, at the age 15, he reached of their ten-day trek: Lugnaquillia, the highest peak both the North and South Poles, the youngest in Leinster at 931m. Their pace was quite impressive explorer ever to do so. considering that most of the participants were Poza Horyzonty The members of the expedition arrived in Ireland missing one or more of their limbs. These remarkable on May 20th and had their first taste of Irish hikers were members of the Wicklow Horizon 2013 hospitality that night, as they had been offered Trek, an expedition organised by the Polish overnight accommodation by the priest in charitable foundation (Beyond Clondalkin. The next day, the group had a short Horizons). warm-up walk in Clondalkin and attended mass The main aim of the expedition was to support the there. Then they met the pupils and teachers of St work of the Beyond Horizons foundation, which was Ronan’s Primary School, the local national school. established in Poland to help those who, as a result of The children and teachers from St Ronan’s bade All photographs by: JEZIERSKA-STACHOWICZ MARTA an accident or a severe illness, have been subjected to farewell to the hikers at 1:00pm in Marlay Park, 40 Irish Mountainthe Log amputation of one or more of their limbs. This , where the real adventure began.Autumn 2013 time, they were raising funds for ten-year-old As the group gained altitude on the Wicklow Way, Martynka Karbowska, who needed two prosthetic they started to enjoy the quickly changing scenery FEATURES HILLWALKING WITH DISABILITY THE BASE CAMP FOR THE ATTEMPT ON LUGNAQUILLIA WAS NEAR THE START OF THE ZIG-ZAGS

Glencree Valley, the Glendale Lodge. The group had also decided to hike up to Prince William’s Seat (556m) on the way. This side-trip was the first experience for the group of walking on moorland and The auThor and the views over the city of Dublin, the bay and the through the bogs that are such a part of the Irish Rafal Stachowicz surrounding hills. It also started to be more landscape. It was certainly not easy for them, mainly organised this challenging. Drainage ditches on the Wicklow Way, because of the uneven and wet terrain. Despite these expedition. He is originally from Poland easily crossed by ordinary walkers, caused difficulties difficulties, the hikers coped well with the ascent and but now lives in Dublin, for those with prosthetic limbs and they had to had a relaxing lunch with great views over the where he is a member of develop special techniques to cross them. In addition, surrounding mountains from the rocks on Prince the Irish Mountaineering matching the overall pace of the walk to the degree of William’s Seat. Club and disability of each of the participants, so that they The most challenging part of the second day turned Mountaineering Ireland. He is an experienced could keep together, was not easy. out to be overcoming the stony steps of the Wicklow hillwalker, climber and Coming from Poland, a country where most Way in Curtlestown Wood. This is part of the route trekker and is a qualified mountain trails are probably over-marked, so that that usually shouldn't take more than ten minutes expedition guide. Rafal is people usually don’t have to use a map, the group had but, for members of the expedition, it took more than experienced in organising and leading to start making proper use of the 1:30,000 East West an hour – mainly because of the height and the hikes in Ireland and Wicklow maps. Mostly, we kept to the Wicklow Way, number of sand-covered stone steps they had to abroad. which was quite well signposted. However, there descend. Fortunately, there were no falls, which could were several diversions and side-trips planned, so we have been dangerous on this type of ground. The rest had to follow the route closely on the map. After a of the route for that day was relatively easy, very long first day’s walking, which lasted more than especially the last stretch on the back road leading to nine hours, the group finally reached their camp in the final (easily missed) turn to the Scout Lodge, the Dublin Mountains. Thanks to the hospitality of where the group quickly set up their tents. , we had the use of the scouts’ facility The next day was spent in Glencree valley, treating at Hill. Despite tiredness and minor abrasions abrasions, exploring the surrounding area, the caused by prostheses, the group had a feeling of great beautiful oak forest, participating in psychological satisfaction after completing the first day of their workshops conducted by a therapist, singing songs expedition, but there were still nine more days ahead. by the campfire and watching the pattern of the The second day started early at 7:00am with the typical Irish weather (five minutes of showers and plan to cover about 14km to the scouts’ lodge in five minutes of sun). After such a good rest day, the FEATURES HILLWALKING WITH DISABILITY

group was ready to begin a difficult and demanding day 4. The day started early again at 7:00am, when all members of the group were given lifts by volunteers in their cars to Crone Wood car park, just to avoid the part of the route on the not entirely safe asphalt country road. After two hours’ walk, the hikers were able to enjoy a scenic view of one of the national tourist attractions, the 130m-high Powerscourt Waterfall, and then have their lunch beside the bridge in the Dargle valley. There were more challenges ahead for them that day, including a traverse of Mountain (725m). Ascents and descents are one of the biggest difficulties for those with prosthetics. They must work hard to maintain their balance and direction of motion on an inclined slope. ‘Slowly but surely’ became the motto of the group. The day finished with the first wild camping in Wicklow Mountains National Park, at a site with a great view of Lough Tay and the cliffs of Luggala, where their wilderness survival skills were tested. Days 5 and 6 were relatively easy with just about 19km to cover to Laragh, mostly on gravel and A stile presents a challenge for a disabled climber country roads. It was also another chance to experience the great hospitality of the locals, when instead of sleeping in the wilderness of the national park again, the group was invited to use a farmer's field beside a delightful small wood and with basic facilities. It was really exciting when the expedition members saw for the first time the dramatic view of Brockagh forest. Glendalough and Glendasan valleys from the hills of As camping in this area is legally restricted, everybody was very grateful that the long- established Irish Mountaineeering Club (IMC) gave us the free use of their hut in Glendalough. Hikers could enjoy the great scenery of this important tourist site, meet with IMC’s very experienced members and spend two days hiking in this beautiful area. So far, the weather had been much better than everybody expected, knowing the stories they had heard about the unpredictable and very wet conditions that prevail on this island. Instead, sunny and mostly dry weather allowed the group to enjoy relaxing breaks and only one hike, the one on the seventh day, had to be cancelled, when there was lashing rain. This served to remind everybody how lucky we had been with the weather. It was also perfect timing, as the group was in the right place, snug and dry in the wooden club hut. The ninth day’s walk from Glendalough to Glenmalure prepared expedition members for the main challenge, climbing Lugnaquillia, called by locals ‘Lug.’ It was quite a strenuous day, as the group

All photographs by: JEZIERSKA-STACHOWICZ MARTA had to climb over Gap at almost 600m and then take the very long way down to the Glenmalure valley. Again, unlike a majority of hikers, perhaps, for those with prostheses the descent was more tiring and difficult than the ascent. The day was sunny, but very windy. As we descended, there was perfect 42 Irish Mountain Log visibility with great views across the valleyAutumn to 2013 Wicklow’s highest peak, Lugnaquillia, and into the remote Glenmalure valley, which was some FEATURES DISABLED CLIMBING

The expedition team poses for a group photo on the summit of Lugnaquillia

compensation for the effort required. Thanks to the hospitality of a local farmer, the expedition’s base camp for the attempt on Lugnaquillia was established on beautiful grassland by the Avonbeg River, just near the start of the Zig- Zags route onto the mountain. The expedition was on a high, with everybody excited about next day’s final climbing challenge. The last day, the tenth of the expedition, started at 7:00am with a fast warm-up and breakfast. The weather was sunny again, the air was clear with perfect views over the mountains, but the very strong winds created quite chilly conditions. This was to be the greatest ascent and descent in one day on the hike and was quite challenging for the group, especially for one of the double amputees. Once we were past the well-maintained approach trail of the Zig-Zags, the adventure started with route-finding necessary through the heather, bogs and stony outcrops and along the cliffs. Despite the difficulties experienced, only two members of the group had to retreat before the summit, assisted by volunteers. All of the remaining expedition members reached the plateau of Clohernagh (800m) where, after a well deserved lunch break, the group started to walk slowly up to the main peak, Lug. It was an emotional time when the group members all finally reached the top. They congratulated each other and had photos taken with the organisers. This was not the end of the challenge, though. The hikers still had to take on the difficult and time-consuming descent back to their campsite in Glenmalure. After a tiring ten-hour day, the participants were The charity trek raised a total of €3,700. As the cost of buying prostheses for Martynka once again pleasantly surprised by their local Karbowska will be €8,000, the donations page is still open. If you wish to find out more about Martynka or Beyond Horizons, or to contribute, you can use these secure supporters, the teachers of St Ronan’s School, who links: http://pozahoryzonty.org/martynka-karbowska; www.gofundme.com/martynka. had travelled to Glenmalure from Dublin especially to Autumnmeet and 2013 congratulate the walkers, and to donate Irish Mountain Log 43 money towards the prostheses for Martynka Karbowska. Everybody was extremely happy and FEATURES RIDGE CLIMBING

The climbers (circled in red) descending to the base of the north spur Sturrall headland climb IAIN MILLER leads a team on an ascent of an exposed Donegal headland

Atlantic storms this crumbling cliff withstands annually, such fears must be exaggerated. Nevertheless it would be improper to I recommend this climb. It is dangerous as well n southwest Donegal, halfway between as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly Glencolmcille and the end of the Port road, lies delightful – after it is over.” the headland of Sturrall, one of the great anomalies of sea-cliff architecture in Ireland. Sturrall stands head and shoulders above the surrounding clifftops and projects out into the Atlantic Ocean for almost a kilometre. The headland comprises a knife-edge ridge running On my first visit to Sturrall I hatched a plan to for a shade over 800 metres, extending from the climb the ridge from the seaward end back to the mainland to the summit of Sturrall at 180m above sea land, a tad over 800 metres away. The seaward tip of level and then down into the sea. the headland is difficult to access and is a scary place The first recorded climb to the summit of Sturrall to visit. It is accessed by a steep scramble down to the was by Walter Parry Haskett Smith in about 1895. His base of the north spur of the headland and a boat trip route ascended the ridge from the landward side, a from there for 300 metres. The sea passage to gain route“The that knife-edged requires a saddle very exposed is very rotten 400m but ridge leads the starting point is exposed to currents and scrambleto a firm to theblock summit. of rock As nearly WP Haskett1,000 feet Smith above wrote occasionally high seas. It is quite common for the in 1895:the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock offshore skerries to ‘take green’ or have 20m swells that no cragsman can pass it by. The passage is wash right over them. not pleasant, yet even on a second visit the My original plan was to climb the ridge alone and writer was powerless to resist temptation. The to that end I made four reconnaissance trips to tottering wall of rotten rock gives the Sturrall. I got as far as landing on the seaward tip of impression that the whole connection may the ridge on one visit. It is quite a surreal experience slither down. Considering what desperate to visit such a wild place and be totally alone, a bit All photographs: CAOIMHE GLEESON AND OSCAR WILSON like driving your car very fast through a busy city centre and closing your eyes for a minute. After the 44 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 fourth visit the decision was an easy one to make – a team ascent was the order of the day. FEATURES RIDGE CLIMBING

The auThor Iain Miller is a Mountain Leader based in Co Donegal. He specialises in leading adventure climbs, notably on sea stacks and sea cliffs. For more details, visit his website www.uniqueascent.ie.

The climbers (circled in red) making the short boat trip out to the tip

IT WAS VERY EXPOSED. SEVERAL SECTIONS INVOLVED CRAWLING.....

On the chosen weekend, we arrived in Port late on AND PRAYING! the Friday night with a clear moonlit sky and a trillion stars. We made a swift visit to the Port Hostel to meet Theresa Hughes and Aaron Entringer, who were over from the US and had come to play on the Sturrall that weekend. We discussed our various options for the weekend’s wee adventure. The difficult, though it was very exposed and several deciding vote would, as always, go to our old friend, sections involved crawling – and praying! The Neptune. exposure was outrageous. On Saturday, we walked to the Sturrall headland The crux pitch was reached approximately 150 and then back via Port to Glenlough Bay, an metres up the ridge. This was the most technically outstanding stretch of coastline. The planets appeared difficult part of the climb and involved a very exposed to have aligned and the mighty Sturrall looked to be in move from a vertical wall to a near featureless slab. a suitable mood to accept visitors. This was followed by a couple of friction moves On Sunday morning we set off from Port nice and above the abyss to the mother of all ‘Thank God’ early, for the day was likely to be a long one indeed. A holds. From there, a jug romp was followed to a 3km clifftop walk took us to the landward end of monster block belay. Another outstanding slab pitch Sturrall. We began the very steep descent down the followed above and we were now on the homeThe climbers north spur, taking an inflatable boat (circled in red) with us. The north spur was the beginning their nearest point of land to our starting climb of the Sturrall point on the seaward tip that was headland ridge accessible on hands and feet. From here, the 300m sea passage to the tip of the ridge looked mildly terrifying but definitely do-able. Alas, Neptune was in attendance and in a bit of a strop! However, two emotional boat crossings later found us all at the foot of the seaward tip of Sturrall with, above us, over 300 metres of unclimbed rock. As the seas were now crashing 20-footers from the southwest, we were truly committed to the task in hand – a boat retreat was now out the Autumnquestion 2013 – and so we began to climb. Irish Mountain Log 45 For the first 150 metres climbing up this mind-blowing ridge was not FEATURES RIDGE CLIMBING

Theresa Hughes starts climbing from the base of the seaward tip

 STURRALL HEADLAND XS 4c, 750m

■ Climb details This route climbs the Sturrall headland ridge from sea to straight. A further 100 metres of climbing at about summit and continues along the ridge towards the land. ‘Diff,’ with monster big air all round, took us to the Access is by steep descent of the north spur of Sturrall to summit as the sun was beginning to set. sea level and a 300m paddle to the base of the ridge. From sea to summit had taken us a shade over eight hours, covering 350 metres of climbing at a Pitch 1: 25m. From the recess at the sea-side tower, climb grade of XS 4c. the grooves above the abyss to a large grassy ledge. We beat a hasty retreat in the growing darkness but, if light had allowed, we would have followed the Pitch 2: 48m. Climb slabby rock and up airy ground as the skyline ridge back to the landward side of the Sturrall ridge narrows – steep belay on blocky ground. Acknowledgmentsby Haskett Smith’s original 1890s route; that would have added over 400m of alpine-type ridge climbing Pitch 3: 20m. Climb ridge to a flattening. to our route. Pitch 4: 25m. Crawl along the ridge with maximum exposure – big gear belay in wide crack at top of slab. Many thanks to Caoimhe Gleeson and Oscar Xxxx?? for■ their clifftop patience and excellent photographs. A special thanks Pitch 5: 48m. Climb steep ground to an excellent pull onto also to Theresa Hughes who completed the route in exceptional The team (l to r): Iain Miller, Theresa Hughes and Aaron Entringer an immaculate slab above big air. Climb slab to twin crack style on only her third days’ outdoor climbing ever belay on a grassy ledge.

Pitch 6: 40m. Continue up immaculate slab by finger cracks to a large grassy recess.

Pitch 7: 50m. Climb broken, very exposed ground to monster block belay.

Pitch 8: 70m. Scramble to summit.

From the summit, follow the ridge past several towers with maximum exposure for approximately 350m of outstanding alpine-ridge climbing back to land.

■ First ascents Summit to land: WP Haskett Smith, c1895. Sea to summit: Iain Miller, Theresa Hughes, Aaron Entringer, March 17th, 2012. All photographs: CAOIMHE GLEESON AND OSCAR WILSON

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Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 47 Books

Everest Calling It is all too easy to focus on and remember only the destination, only the summit.

This revision of ALBERT CONNAUGHTON remembers the struggles – not just climbing the mountain but the oft-forgotten journey and struggle to get to the bottom. It is now twenty years since the first Irishman climbed Everest. Dawson Stelfox, alone EVEREST CALLING: at the summit in 1993, climbed THE IRISH JOURNEY it in a style unlikely to be seen By Lorna Siggins again on this mountain. Approaching the Hillary Step, May 2012 This is an important story to be told. While a huge dose of nostalgia for many, it also offers The Collins Press (2013), 213pp, an interesting insight into the many colour photos, b&w huge effort, determination and illustrations, maps, sketches ISBN 13: 978 18488 91630, €19.99 skill of the men and women first ascent have done since the dearth of Irish climbers who worked together to put an Everest. seeking high challenges beyond Irishman on the summit of finishes the the ‘celebrity’ summits. It is difficult to imagine a Everest, to a new generation of book with a new chapter Dawson’s successful climb mountain that comes close to Irish mountaineers. completing the ‘Irish Journey’ was an inspiration to an entire captivating the attention of This new generation of to date, with a review of all generation of climbers. This mountaineers and non- mountaineers have grown up thirty-six Irish ascents made so book is essential reading as it mountaineers alike quite like and honed their skills in a very Everest Calling: The Irish far by the twenty-six men and tells the story of the team, the Everest does. Everest has been different environment to that of Journey effort, the highs and the lows; in steeped in tragedy, triumph and the last century, particularly five women who have climbed it essence, The Irish Journey. controversy in equal measures with the now extensive in various styles since 1993. from the first reconnaissance commercialisation of the Dermot was part of the original expeditions in the 1920s right mountain. team and, like many, has a deep Dr Roger isMcMorrow a must-haveConsultant on the anaesthetist, mountaineer, up to the present day. For many, This revised edition has had a personal relationship with bookshelf of mountaineers and non-mountaineerssummiteer on the 2007 alike. Caudwell including nations in some cases, glossy make-over, with many Everest. He doesn’t hide his Xtreme Everest Expedition there is a deep personal new colour photographs. It disdain for the interest, history and includes a foreword by Dawson commercialisation and climbing relationship with the mountain. Stelfox and a chapter on what style that is now the norm on The Irish are no exception. the climbers involved in that the mountain. He also laments

th

Published on the 60 objective perception of events. amazing tale of a team of anniversary of Sir Edmund On first meeting with Ed Hillary climbers whose unflagging Hillary’s 1953 Everest they “talked easily about the support for each other resulted expedition, George Lowe’s mountains” and discovered in the successful ascent. memoir comes from the last that Lowe’s father, who ran a This is Lowe’s story, but surviving climber of the 1953 fruit farm, got his queen bees other notable figures and expedition. Lowe died at the from “a chap in Auckland, mountaineering legends offer age of 89 in March of this year, someone called Hillary.” Thus contributions and reflections. before this book was published began a lifelong friendship and Reinhold Messner writes that it THE CONqUEST OF EVEREST: (see obituary in IML 106, p64). climbing partnership. is right to remember and ORIGINAL PHOTOGRAPHS Dr Huw Lewis-Jones provides Lowe felt honoured and honour these men, knowing FROM THE LEGENDARY the accompanying text and lucky to be part of Hillary’s life, how they approached their FIRST ASCENT mountains. In an age of worked with Lowe and his but Lowe himself was the By George Lowe & Huw growing consumerism, this family over his final years to unsung hero of the expedition. Lewis-Jones memoir upholds the traditional put together this memoir with Lowe was master of his craft on valuesBill Hannon of theMember mountains of the and Irish it stunning photographs from the snow and ice, and had shouldMountaineering have a placeClub and in allmember climb. remarkable endurance at high mountaineeringof Mountaineering Irelandlibraries. Thames & Hudson (2013), 240pp, 163 The memoir is fascinating altitude. He got to within 1,000 illustrations48 Irish & Mountain photos (62 Logcolour), because of both the range and feet of the summit, helping Autumn 2013 ISBN 978-0-500-54423-5, €24.95 vividness of the photography, Hillary and Tenzing on their and Lowe’s own low-key and final push for the top. It was an Literary Editor Peter O’Neill presents reviews of some recent publications

promises made to sponsors. nasty Tyrolean river traverse In the remainder of the Not this book – Gerry has and the discomfort of altitude. book, Gerry digresses often something to say about the With the group expedition from his traveller observations world and the society in which over, Gerry continues his Indian to recount his personal he finds himself and this book mountain sojourn with a visit interpretation of the history, is his vehicle. to Ladakh, where he organises and his assessment of the It starts out as an account of a solo exploration journey and religions and politics, of many a small group of relatively makes another first ascent of a states in that vast and inexperienced Irish climbers, 5,000-metre unclimbed peak. complicated subcontinent. their encounters in the Indian He is generous in his While many may not share his Himalaya and their successful assessment of the many local views or political perspectives, first ascent of a previously un- mountain people and fellow CLIMBING RAMABANG: he uses his travelogue to raise named 6,000-metre peak. The travellers he meets and ONE IRISH CLIMBER’S philosophical, political and book conveys that there is still befriends, and whose stories ExPLORATIONS IN THE environmental issues scope for competent climbers and life positions he easily HIMALAYA AND HIS important to him as a citizen to adventurously explore and relates, while he shares his OVERLAND TRIP HOME of the world. For good pioneer new routes on un- regrets regarding his own By Gerry Galligan measure, he concludes with climbed peaks in the Himalaya. recent parting with a girl he his interpretation and The writing style is easy yet regards as special. synopsis of the Ramayana, the compelling; he quickly sucks He is inquisitive and a ancient Hindu myth. Vicarious Publishing, Dublin (2013), you in with a self-effacing natural story-teller whose real As I have already said, this 287pp, 2 sections of colour photos, 3 commentary of his life to date calling may very well be with not just a book about an route maps, ISBN: 978-1-909461-03- and his pulling together, his pen as a travel writer. His expedition. Like the quote he 1 (hdbk), 978-1-909461-04-8 planning and co-ordination of overland journey home via uses from Rudyard Kipling at (eBook), €25 (£20) an expedition to the Spiti Nepal, Pakistan, , Turkey the outset, Galligan has gone region of Himachal Pradesh and the Balkans provides such and looked “behind the Never judge a book by its with three of his friends. an opportunity. His account Frank Nugent Member of Ranges”Mountaineering and has Ireland, come Himalayan back cover! Gerry Galligan’s book His language is cool and and observations while withmountaineer, his own Arctic story explorer to tell! and looks like an old-fashioned modern, as he competently attending a Sufi festival at author Himalayan expedition book, pads up trails or does a recce Pakori near Lahore in Pakistan written by an expedition up a valley. He is honest about with a group of other tourists leader trying to pay off the relatively easy nature of the makes you wish you were accumulated debts or route to the summit despite a there.

SCOTTISH SPORT CLIMBS: SCOTTISH MOUNTAINEERING CLUB CLIMBER’S GUIDE By Andy Nesbit, Rab Anderson & Brian Davison

Scottish Mountaineering Club (2013), 342pp, many photos and sketch maps, ISBN 978-1-907233-15-9, £28.00 (€32.00)

IfAutumn only the 2013 routes in every guidebook were Irish Mountain Log 49 shown on photos as clearly as in this one! Books

all of 400 million years old, laid down in an arid ancient sea, and that the climb via O’Shea’s Gully was facilitated by an enormous earthquake that happened when the mountain was being formed? Many geologists never get to where Schematic drawing showing we go, up in the mountains, and bedrock structure in Bantry Bay envy our excursions there. area; from : GEOLOGY OF IRELAND: Geology can be complicated A Field Guide A FIELD GUIDE and, for the uninitiated, it By Pat Meere, Ivor McCarthy, requires some effort to grasp John Reavy, Alistair Allen & the basics. Thankfully, with this Ken Higgs new book, the basics are provided. The first forty pages are place. Or we can walk over the and Ireland by UCC’s Professor introductory chapters to the that were Eamon Dillon (“Rocky” to his The Collins Press (2013), 384pp, science of geology, but the joy many colour pictures, diagrams, maps, once the base of a mighty students – his successor was of the book is in the field trips. ISBN 978 1 848894-166-1, €19.99 volcano. There are good maps “Pebbles”) and The Geology of There are seventeen field trips and precise grid references Ireland by Trinity College’s that go around the coast of showing each location. Charles Holland. The latter was As mountaineers and Ireland. Each trip is then revised and a new edition was The authors are currently or hillwalkers, we are engaged subdivided into specific issued in 2009. However, this were formerly associated with with the landscape more than locations where the geology is new book excels in bringing the UCC, a university with a long any other outdoor pursuit described. We can savour the reader to the geology via the tradition in geology, and Ivor group. Having a basic tetrapod footprints on Valentia wonderful field trips, in understanding of what has Island, the oldest evidence in McCarthy would be regarded as pinpointing where particular shaped that landscape will the world of the first creature the foremost authority on Jimfeatures Ryan areAuthor, and guidebook in the superb writer enhance the experience for us. to emerge onto land. We can geology in Ireland, particularly illustrations. At under €20, the Isn’t it interesting to know, for walk over the ancient rocks at on the geology of Munster. book is great value. instance, that the sandstone at Belmullet laid down when our When I took up geology, the the summit of Carrauntoohil is Earth was a barren lifeless choice was between Geology

In this interesting book, Ben What is quite surprising is monitoring their every move. Cunningham tells us about his the group’s lack of cycling Also, no mention of equipment cycling adventure in 2008 with experience and the lack of choice or quantity is made, so a group of friends who had just training and route-planning this book would not be much finished college. They set out that was done before they set help to anyone planning a from Deadhorse in northern out. Admitting that he was not similar trip. Alaska with the aim of cycling able to assemble a bike and had While passing through the to Ushuaia, in southern never cycled more than 100km Peruvian desert, the group Argentina, in a time-frame of before, Ben is very honest encounters the strong about nine months. The route about his lack of experience at prevailing headwind coming in they followed, known as the the beginning. However, with Pan-American Highway, the long days spent on the road from the south Pacific. It is measures 25,000km and passes and the advice of other cyclists mentioned that this journey is THE LONGEST ROAD: through fourteen different the group meet along the way, usually attempted in the AN IRISH PAN-AMERICAN countries. he is soon up to speed. opposite direction for this very CYCLING ADVENTURE Each country is given its own As the group was well reason and one does wonder if By Ben Cunningham chapter in the book, with financed from wealthy this was another oversight in markers indicating how many backgrounds, they were able to the planning. However, this is kilometres and days have been employ a support jeep to follow Craignot to Scarlett take away Member from of a the covered. Cunningham makes them with spare bikes for the expeditionfantastic achievementto Ramabang withand Gerryan The Collins Press (2013), 271pp, some interesting observations entire trip and even a security Galligan,interesting Secretary read. of the IMBRC 22pp colour photos, 20pp b&w about the countries’ geography detail to follow them through (Irish Mountain Bike Racing Club) photos, maps, ISBN 978-1-84889- and the peoples he meets along Mexico and Central America. 173-9, €14.99 50 Irish Mountain Log the road, and this keeps your This sometimes takes away the Autumn 2013 interest in the journey going sense of adventure, when with ease. security and back-up teams are Literary Editor Peter O’Neill presents reviews of some recent publications

Guidebooks: reviewers wanted for the Log

Irish Mountain Log.

Guidebooks seem, at times, to be the ugly ducklings among the Even if you are not volunteering to review a guidebook, perhaps [email protected], books received for review by the While there is you would like to be added to our list of potential reviewers and be rarely difficulty finding reviewers for the more ‘glamorous’ books, kept informed regarding the books which come in for review. If this is not always the case for guidebooks. Yet these same interested, please e-mail me at the same email address, guidebooks are a source of inspiration when planning a trip, often with the subject line ‘Potential Reviewer,’ essential companions during that trip and afterwards a reminder adding a short note outlining your interests – hillwalking, climbing, of past pleasures. botany, geology, ornithology, or whatever – and the name of your you The ideal reviewer will already know the area or route covered club, if you are a club member. Irish Mountain Log? by the guidebook. Such a person may not be easy to find. I have on If you would like just to see the list of books for review without [email protected]. Peter O’Neill Literary Editor, Irish Mountain Log hand a number of guidebooks for which there have been no volunteering as a potential reviewer at this stage, follow volunteers to review them. Would like to review one of these ‘MIBooksForReview’ on Twitter. more fully for the If so, please e-mail me at

WALKING IN THE WALKING IN SLOVENIA: WALKING IN ITALY’S THE RIDGEWAY NATIONAL AUVERGNE: THE KARAVANKE: STELVIO NATIONAL PARK: TRAIL: 87 MILES THROUGH 42 WALKS IN THE SLOVENIA’S UNSPOILT ITALY’S LARGEST ALPINE 5,000 YEARS OF HISTORY VOLCANIC HILLS OF NORTHERN BORDERS NATIONAL PARK By Steve Davison FRANCE By Justi Carey & Roy Clark By Gillian Price By Rachel Crolla & Carl McKeating Cicerone (2013), 201pp, many photos Cicerone (2013), 188pp, many Cicerone (2013), 187pp, many and maps, ISBN 978-1-85284-694-7, photos and sketch maps, ISBN 978- photos and sketch maps, ISBN 978- £12.95 (€15.00) Cicerone (2013), 250pp, many 1-85284-642-8, £15.95 (€18.65) 1-85284-690-9, £16.95 (€20.00) photos and sketch maps, ISBN 978- 1-85284-651-0, £14.95 (€17.50) The Ridgeway is an ancient Triglav is better known but the This guidebook describes trackway described as Britain’s Karavanke, bordering Austria, thirty-eight summertime oldest road. It extends from The Auvergne is not one of is described here as “the way day-walks, from easy strolls to Wiltshire along the chalk ridge of the better-known walking the Alps used to be.” 21 day- strenuous climbs, in the the Berkshire Downs to the River regions in France, but this routes and two two-day routes Rhaetian Alps, between the Thames at Goring Gap. The route ancient landscape of volcanic are outlined for those who Dolomites and Switzerland, was adapted and extended to form peaks and lava domes is well Peterwould O’Neill like to Literary get away Editor from Peteran area O’Neill which Literary is easily Editor a National Trail in 1972; it is 87 worth a visit. I have stopped the commercial development accessible from Milan, Verona miles (139km) long and passes here and walked for a day or of the Western Alps. and Venice. through ancient landscapes. Over two when driving back rolling, open downland to the west JakobZ through France. This of the Thames, and through guidebook, with 42 day- secluded valleys and woods in the routes, would have helped Chilterns to the east, it follows the make best use of those short same route used since prehistoric visits. Clermont, the centre of times by travellers, herdsmen and the area covered, is perhaps soldiers. It takes 5-7 days to pass better known to rugby fans. If through 5,000 years of human Petertravelling O’Neill for Literary a match, Editor why Peterhistory. O’Neill Although Literary written Editor as a 12- not try to combine it with stage route, this guidebook can Mount Struška in the Karavanke, Slovenia some walking here? also be used for day trips. Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 51 by Helen Lawless Hillwalking, Access & Conservation Officer βeta Helen Lawless has the beta on the latest developments in hillwalking, access and conservation

Managing recreation in upland areas ALAN HILL

ver the last couple of months Mountaineering Ireland members have participated in meetings about the management of recreational activity in two key upland areas: Leenane, taking in the hills of south Mayo and Connemara; and the McGillycuddy’s Reeks in Co Kerry. While looking at the same issue, the discussions arose from separate projects. In Leenane, the local development association commissioned a feasibility study to examine the potential for developing Leenane as a hub for land and water-based adventure activities. Deirdre Lewis (SLR Consulting) (front row, second from left) and Helen Lawless (front row, Following completion of the study in far right) with some of those who contributed to the McGillycuddy’s Reeks consultation in OMay, Leenane Development Association , Co Kerry, on September 9th. (LDA) decided to form a working group to take forward some of the recommendations, particularly around trail development and mountain access. In conjunction with LDA, Mountaineering project. Progress on this has been the issues that arise, such as demand for Ireland hosted a meeting in July to update frustratingly slow, but in June of this year parking, path erosion and control of dogs. local clubs and members on the South Kerry Development Partnership Projects such as the ones in the proposals. appointed SLR Consulting to advise on Leenane area and the McGillycuddy’s The meeting had an attendance of the establishment of an appropriate Reeks often arise from a desire to almost 30, with one member travelling management structure to guide the generate local economic benefit from from Limerick. At the meeting, local McGillycuddy’s Reeks Mountain Access recreational activity. While this is needed, farmer and community activist Martin Project and to ensure its long-term the vulnerability of our mountains to Gavin presented the proposals on behalf viability. increased recreation activity is clearly of LDA and sought two nominees from Consultation with landowners and evident from the erosion scars on Mountaineering Ireland to join the other interested parties took place over Carrauntoohil and other popular working group. the summer and is ongoing. As part of the mountains. This invitation was extended to local process, a meeting for Mountaineering Having Mountaineering Ireland clubs that hadn’t been able to send a th Ireland clubs and training providers was representatives on local upland representative to the meeting. A number held on September 9 in Killarney. The management groups can help ensure that of people expressed interest in the role project also includes research into upland the integrity of the mountain and the Board of Mountaineering Ireland fora and management models already in environment is protected; that the host subsequently nominated Elizabeth placeAddressing in other parts issues of Ireland at and community is aware of the services that Gosling (Na Beanna Beola Walking Club) Britain. hillwalkers and climbers are most likely and Paddy O’Leary (Galway-based a local level ® If you or your club would be interested to avail of; and that these projects are member of the Irish Mountaineering in knowing more about how the Leenane andinformed McGillycuddy’s by experience Reeks in otherprojects areas. Club) to represent Mountaineering Helping the Hills evolve, please contact TwoIreland pilotin the working areas group. It is likely IML 96 IML 104, [email protected]. We will also that the group will meet in October. Mountaineering Ireland welcomes both be providing updates at future Club these projects. As noted in the report of Environmental Officer workshops ■ last year’s conference 52As reportedIrish Mountain in Log(pp56-57), ( p9), with the continued growth Autumn 2013 Carrauntoohil is one of two pilot areas for in outdoor recreation there is a need for Comhairle na Tuaithe’s Mountain Access some structure at local level to address Outdoor Recreation Action Plans for

Sport NI has commissioned Outdoor Recreation NI (formerly CAAN) to develop Outdoor Recreation Action Plans for four key areas: the

PAT SCANLON PAT Sperrins; the Causeway Coast; The Helen Lawless with participants on a recent Leave No Trace awareness hike at Loch an Mhúnáin, Mournes and the . Dingle Peninsula, Co Kerry. As well as enjoying a short walk on a blustery day, the participants The four action plans will be added to their knowledge of the mountain environment and discussed how we can help to care produced between now and April for the places where we walk and climb. The group included members from three local clubs: 2014. The process in each area will Cumann Sléibhteoireachta an Leith Triuigh; the Dingle Hillwalking Club and Cumann involve: local consultation; an audit Sléibhteoireachta Annascaul Walkers. (Photo: Pat Scanlon) of the current provision and management of outdoor recreation; identification of opportunities for growth; and the preparation of an Club Environmental Officers action plan to guide outdoor recreation development in the area Does your club have an Environmental Officer? over the next 5-10 years. Mountaineering Ireland Mountaineering Ireland provides support and some encourages all members to excellent training days for participate in the consultation Club Environmental process for areas that you use Officers member. be experts; we are looking regularly, so that the plans that If we stop to think about for people who are active emerge will reflect the concerns and it briefly, the quality of the within their individual needs of hillwalkers and climbers. environment we walk and clubs and who will help Work has already commenced on climb in has a direct the plan for the Sperrins, where a raise the level of bearing on the enjoyment number of Mountaineering Ireland environmental awareness we get from our activities. www.outdoorrecreationni.commembers attended consultation Most hillwalking clubs hold As users of Ireland’s hills, amongst their fellow evenings that took place during an annual general meeting mountains, crags and coast, members. August. A draft action plan for the (AGM) around this time it is in all of our interests to Mountaineering Ireland Sperrins should be available on every year. If your club look after these special provides support and some at hasn’t appointed a Club places. excellent training days for the end of September. The Mournes ® If you would like to know [email protected] Environmental Officer Occasionally, that means Club Environmental will be the next area to be dealt with. more about the role of a Club (CEO), then now is the time taking a stand against an Officers. Mountaineering Ireland members to think about doing so. unwelcome development, Environmental Officer, email are urged to contact Mountaineering Ireland but mostly it is about [email protected] or with realises that it is difficult to making sure we carry on contact the Mountaineering views and suggestions■ on the future find volunteers within our activities responsibly Ireland office ■ of outdoor recreation in these areas, clubs, but being and that the impact we so that these ideas can be environmental officer can leave is a positive one. incorporated in Mountaineering be a really enjoyable and ClubLeave Environmental No Trace fact: Keep to the pathIreland’s responses educational role for a club Officers are not expected to

By keeping to the centre of existing paths we can prevent the erosion scars on our hills becoming wider. Where there’s a visible path, the vegetation and Travelsoil have already and been Camp impacted on upon, Durable so it’s better Surfaces to follow that line rather GUY WAREHAM than trampling a wider area. (Based on Bayfield and Aitken, 1992). Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 53 by Rozanne Bell Member & Training Support Administrator βeta Rozanne Bell has the beta on the latest developments in mountain training and skills

2013 Key Dates th th PATRICK O’SULLIVAN PATRICK • October 18 -20 Autumn Gathering, Kenmare • November 28th-29th Mountain Training Conference, Tollymore Club Training Workshops These workshops are aimed at Mountaineering Ireland club members who would like to learn some new skills and return to their clubs better informed, to pass on their experiences to other club members. Mountain Training Conference Contact the office for further details. • November 2nd-3rd Club Training Officers Tollymore, Co Down, November 28th-29th 2013 Workshop, The Burren • January 25th-26th Train the Trainers Workshop, Wicklow (including evening of 24th)

he objective of the Mountain governing body awards. We believe Winter Lecture Series Training Conference is to it will be an invaluable learning • October 24th Gerry Galligan bring together all those and knowledge-sharing “Climbing Ramabang” involved in mountain training on opportunity and, as such, it will the island of Ireland as well as also count as a CPD course for BOS October 25th contributions from the other providers. • Gerry Galligan “Climbing Ramabang” Mountain Training Boards. We are keen to encourage all Eglinton Suite, Best Western White Horse Hotel, The conference will consider the those who are working in Derry. Hosted by Colmcille Climbers. current award framework, look mountain training, in the outdoors th • December 12 Lynam Lecture forward to changes in Mountain industry, in third-level institutions, Training in the future, debate the Stephen Venables ®in outdoorFull details education of the programme centres and and Meeting Room 02F06, University of , hot topics, and also provide a range onlinein adventure bookings centres,will be available as well shortly as on Jordanstown. Hosted by UUJMC. of workshops. www.mountaineeringireland.ie.Club Training Officers, to attend.See also The conference is primarily for advertisement, page 63 ■ those involved in mountain Trinity College Dublin. Hosted by Mountaineering training in Ireland and will be of Ireland. In Search of Peaks, particular importance to those TProviders, please note Passes and Glaciers: Irish Alpine Pioneers. already providing national We will be putting together a more extensive series • Mountain Skills logbooks • Put your course dates on of lectures shortly which will include talks from the Mountaineering Ireland Frank Nugent on hisIrish new Mountain book, Log website Please keep an eye on the Events page of the MountaineeringWinter Meet Ireland eveningwebsite and the Winter A reminder to Mountain Skills 2013• November issue of 26th the MI Winterin Meet December. Providers that all students Information Evening presenting themselves for Please upload all courses onto the assessment must have completed Mountaineering Ireland website at A full programme of events is available on our an official Mountaineering Ireland least two weeks prior to running website, www.mountaineering.ie, where you will find Mountain Skills logbook. Should the course, for moderation Greatfull Outdoors,details of allChatham the events Street, and Dublin lectures 2. on the additional logbook pages be purposes. This applies to all■ Events pages. Please put these dates in your diary. required, these can be photocopied courses delivered through colleges from the logbook or candidates can and OECs. Please remember to tick 54contactIrish the Mountain Mountaineering Log the ‘full’ button on the course set- Autumn 2013 Ireland Training Office. up page to avoid enquiries Lynam Lecture 2013 Stephen Venables, Trinity College Dublin, December 12th

tephen Venables is a renowned Tower (1987), the southwest ridge of mountaineer, writer, broadcaster Kusum Kanguru (1991) and Panch Chuli and public speaker. He was the first V (1992). Briton to climb Everest without His adventures have also taken him to supplementary oxygen, reaching the the Rockies, the Andes, the Antarctic summit alone after climbing a new route island of South Georgia, East Africa, up the Kangshung Face from Tibet to the South Africa and, of course, the European South Col with a small American- Alps, where he has climbed and skied for Canadian team of three other climbers in over forty Higheryears. Hethan has the also Eagle made Soars: first A 1988. On the descent, Venables was Pathascents to Everest,in Peru, Bolivia, Patagonia and forced to bivouac at 8600m before South Georgia. making an epic three-day descent of the Stephen has written many books Kangshung Face with two of his team including mates. ® For bookings,which please won go tothe the award for In his distinguished mountaineering MountaineeringBest Book, Mountain Ireland Literature website at■ the career, Venables has climbed throughout 2007 Banff Mountain Book Festival. the Himalaya from Afghanistan to Tibet, makingS many first ascents which have includedWinter Kishtwar Shivling Lecture (1983), Solu Series 2013

Gerry Galligan: “Climbing Ramabang” October 24th: Best Western White Horse Hotel; hosted by Colmcille Climbers October 25th: University of Ulster, Jordanstown; hosted by UUJMC

Climbing Ramabang: One Irish Climber’s Explorations in the Himalaya and his Overland Trip Home, Gerry Galligan is from Donegal. He holds Himalaya. an MBA from Henley and works in the IT His first book, industry in Dublin. He has served as Chairman of the Irish Mountaineering is Club. an account of a small team of Irish Gerry has climbed extensively at home, mountaineers’ attemptsRamabang, to climb No Man in Britain and in the Alps, and has Beforepreviously Us unclimbedSufi, mountains in the developed numerous rock-climbs around Himachal Pradesh region of India (see Ireland, including Chasing the Dragon review, p49,■ this issue). (Wicklow); Karmic Retribution (Burren); Galligan’s films, andAutumn Blind 2013 Faith (Connemara). Further and have been widely Irish Mountain Log 55 afield, he has climbed in Norway, the acclaimed at international mountain film Rockies, the Andes and the Garhwal festivals by Damien O’Sullivan Mountaineering Ireland Talent Development Officer βeta Damien O’Sullivan has the latest news on the youth talent development front

Developing talent Developing young climbing talent in Ireland

he three months that I have been working as Mountaineering Ireland’s Talent Development Officer have been challenging, exciting and rewarding – I hope it stays this way! I have been working in three main areas: Talent Development, Development Coach DevelopmentTalent Development and Squad Competitions.

A has been formed. This squad is for young, established climbers who meet certain specified Tcriteria. There is a schedule of climbing organised training sessions for workshops scheduled. Each of competition climbing ahead. the first round taking place at movement, lead climbing, Irish the squad, and invitations have one-day workshop will cover a There are competitions for all the Mardyke Arena, Cork, and injury prevention Bouldering League th been sent to over forty single topic. The topics to be ages and for all abilities, to at Gortatole OEC, Fermanagh, competition preparation. potential squad members. covered are: enjoy and push themselves at. on January 25 . For young climbers whoTalent are The perennial Developmentnot yet ready for Workshops this squad, a and will have * * * * * * * second series of training four rounds beginningth at the sessions has been organised. These workshops are Gravity Climbing Centre, he level of support and These sessions are the targeted at those coaches who Dublin, on October 12 . interest from all – are working with young Subsequent rounds will be quarters of the climbing they are open to all young Coach Development climbers on a regular basis, be held in Cork and Belfast before community for youth climbers who are keen to st it in local clubs or at climbing the final round at Awesome development and talent improve their climbing skills. walls. It is through these local Walls, Dublin, on February 1 . development has been Irish coaches that the majority of For those who want to test amazing. It has been wonderful Bouldering Championships coaching will be delivered, so their bouldering skills at a to step into a job where there is The second area I have been Level 1 Climbing Coach it is essential that these so much help and support from working on is Coach different format of coaches have access to as competition, the so many quarters: from the Development. It is all well and Coaching many resources as possible. climbing walls, the retailers good having a horde of talented Ireland. young climbers flying up, down A may be just what they are and the equipment suppliers – and all over the climbing walls, award is also being developed looking for. Thisth year, there is who are supporting the but what they really need is in partnership with both a junior competition on planning and delivery of all the access to high-quality coaching Neal McQuaid and Februarynd 15 at Gravity and a events – to the climbers and Alun Richardson have already senior competition on March coaches – who are giving their to help direct their talent and Irish Lead done much work on this over 22 in Belfast. time, energy and expertise to energy. To this end I have been Climbing Championships, T recruiting some of the best and the past year. A pilot of the For those wanting to test help mentor the young

most experienced climbers and Level 1 Climbingth th Coach award their lead climbing mettle, climbers – to the parents, who coaches, in orderCoach to have them assessment is scheduled for there are two support and facilitate the coach at the training sessions. March 8 -9 , 2014, with the a young climbers – and, of Development Workshops Competitions th Youth So far, the recruitment process roll-out of the award expected junior competitionrd on October course, to the young climbers Photographs: DAMIEN O’SULLIVAN Climbing Series ■ has been going well. soon after that. 19 and a senior competition themselves, whose unbridled 56A seriesIrish of Mountain Log on November 23 . enthusiasm for theAutumn sport makes2013 has In January. the my job so rewarding. Our been organised; there are four There is a very exciting season starts, with thanks to all concerned Talent Development Squad

ith the number of once a month. They will allow young people young climbers to be participating in appraised and mentored by climbing and the standard the coaches, who will monitor they are performing at progress and make continually increasing, the suggestions to the young time is ripe for the formation climber about what they of the Mountaineering Ireland should be focusing on. Talent Development Squad. However, it is in between the The main goal of the Talent TDS sessions that the real hard Development Squad (TDS) is work and gains will be made. to provide young climbers Thanks to the huge effort and with a high-performance dedication of so many coaches environment in which to across the country, many improve their skills. The TDS young climbers now have Find a climbing club or Take part in competitions – will also serve as a talent pool regular access to high-quality climbing wall close to you again you will meet other from which to identify young coaching at a local level. It is – you can find details of young climbers, learn new Wclimbers who may go on to these coaches who will help ® For news and updates, check clubs and climbing walls skills, have a lot of fun – compete at international level the young climbers to improve • on the Youth pages of the www.mountaineering.ie.• and you might even Contact win a or in certain other training on a weekly basis, in Mountaineering Ireland Damienprize! O’Sullivan by e-mail at trips and events. conjunction with the website. [email protected] or phone 01 625 1117 ■ Potential members of the recommendations of the TDS Come along to the Talent TDS have been identified coaches. Development Workshops – based on certain criteria, For young climbers who are you will meet other young including performance and not yet ready to be members Talentclimbers, Development learn new skills Squad training sessions commitment. Invitations to of the Talent Development • and have a lot of fun. These sessions are for members of the Talent Development join the TDS have been sent to Squad, there is another series Squad only. parents and thend initial TDS of coaching sessions available. training session was held on The Talent Development th September 22 at Gravity Workshops will be open to any Sunday 13 October: Awesome Walls, Dublin Climbing Centre, Dublin. and all young climbers who Sunday 17th November: Awesome Walls, Dublin Coaching at the TDS training are keen to improve their Sunday 15th December: Gravity Climbing Centre sessions will be delivered by a skills. Coaching at these Sunday 19th January: Awesome Walls, Dublin pool of experienced coaches workshops will be delivered th who are all recognised by by some of the same coaches Sunday 9 February: Gravity Climbing Centre Mountaineering Ireland. that will be coaching at TDS Sunday 9th March: Awesome Walls, Dublin Between them, these coaches training sessions, so the have a vast wealth of climbing quality of coaching will be Talent Development Workshops experience and a considerable very high. These workshops are open to all young climbers (approximately amount of coaching For young climbers who 8-18 years of age) with an interest in improving their climbing experience to boot. would like to get more standard. Sessions run from 11:30am to 4:30pm. Each session TDS training sessions are involved in climbing, we would costs €20 (price includes coaching and entry to the climbing wall). scheduled to take place about suggest the following: Saturday 20th October: Awesome Walls, Dublin Saturday 16th November: Gravity Climbing Centre Sunday 8th December: Awesome Walls, Dublin Sunday 12th January: Gravity Climbing Centre Saturday 8th February: Awesome Walls, Dublin Saturday 8th March: Gravity Climbing Centre

To book a place on a Talent Development Workshop, email Damien at [email protected] or call 01 625 1117 ■

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 57 by Kieran Creevy βeta Kieran Creevy has the beta on gear for hillwalkers and climbers Layers, approach shoes and boots

Layers €280 Marmot Nabu (Polartec Neoshell) Marmot earlier this year prior to the long- ■ running spell of sun. The supremacy of Gore-Tex as the top waterproof membrane has been Pros ❚ Extraordinary breathability (not sweaty at seriously challenged over the last all!) ❚ Soft, silent fabric ❚ Trim fit, no flapping in few years with the introduction of the wind ❚ Pockets easily swallow a Neo-Shell (Polartec), Dry-Q 1:30,000/1:50,000 map ❚ Hood turns with your (Mountain Hardwear), Omni-Tech head and protects you against wind-driven rain (Columbia) and Event (GE). The or hail main argument for these new membranes is that they start Cons ❚ Soft shell-like fabric is a little heavier venting moisture from the moment than other waterproofs ❚ This fabric also limits you zip them up, as opposed to the Nabu to autumn, winter and spring use Gore-Tex’s requirement to have heat to drive your sweat through the Ideal for ❚ Ski touring, winter walking/climbing, waterproof/breathable barrier. I almost year-round use in Ireland and UK tested a new Neo-Shell entry from Insulation ■ Patagonia Ultralite hooded down jacket (Down) Recommended retail price: €350 for the down clusters, many down jackets can (€175 outlet) shrug off a squall – if it's lashing rain, then €350 maybe you should consider throwing on your The introduction of lightweight waterproof. So, why use a mid-layer like the and trim-fitting down vests, Ultralite hooded from Patagonia? pullovers and jackets to many clothing brands' collections has Pros ❚ Packs up smaller than the best been received with scepticism synthetic hoody on the market ❚ Down mid- from some quarters and elation layer breaths better than equivalent synthetics from others. This mixed reception ❚ Insulated hood is a godsend when eating on has everything to do with the a blustery mountain-side, or when trying to relationship down clusters have grab a kip on a plane/bus ❚ Neat fit, layers with moisture. Most of the time, brilliantly under shells sweat isn't an issue and, if you're sweating profusely, then you Cons ❚ More expensive than most synthetic probably need to remove a layer. hoodies ❚ Needs to be treated with more care Rain, however, is a problem, or leastways it was. With better (read Ideal for ❚ Trekking/climbing/snowshoeing more water-resistant) face fabrics abroad, as mid-layer under hardshell during and hydrophobic coatings cold hiking/climbing in Ireland

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■ Marmot: ■ Patagonia: ■ Salewa: ■ 5.10: www.marmot.com www.patagonia.com www.salewa.com www.fiveten.com

58 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 Insulation..... €180

Smartwood PhD Smartloft Divide (Wool) Pros ❚ Warm without being sweaty ❚ Lack of ■ smell – typical with wool ❚ Torso fabric is I remember seeing Dermot Somers in a woollen pretty wind-resistant jumper while working as a voluntary instructor in Tiglin almost 20 years ago. Despite some odd Cons ❚ Lack of zips on the hand-warmer looks from us neophytes, who viewed wool as very pockets ❚ Not sure if it’s a pro or a con, but: old-school and nowhere near as good as a fleece, The black/black colour combo reminds me of he swore by the advantages of his jumpers! I the Charlton Heston era Planet of the Apes imagine he will be smiling wryly seeing this fantastic fabric being introduced to a wider Ideal for ❚ Anything really – around town, audience! skiing, year-round hiking, climbing

Merino wool base layers

When merino wool clothing appeared in Irish outdoor stores seven years ago there was a lot of Pavlovian scratching from the memories of itchy wool jumpers and mohair socks that, to paraphrase a Scottish comedian, thought you were edible. Those memories were completely eradicated at the end of my first day’s use of a merino top. There wasn't even the slightest hint of an itch and, as a massive bonus, it didn't stink, even at the end of a week-long winter trip which, considering I'd only managed to rinse it once in a shower, was amazing. Now, for anyone who has been made a pariah due to their smelly base layer after only one day of hiking, biking, skiing or climbing, this feature is a godsend. A side-effect of this bonus is that you need to carry less in your pack. The smell issue aside, the other main benefit of merino layers is their extended temperature comfort range. Normally you would only consider using a thermal layer when it gets cold, then change into a lighter, short-sleeve top for hot weather, but I've happily used the same long-sleeve base layer from +25° to -25° (with the obvious assumption of layering up for colder conditions). The only downside is that a typical long-sleeve merino top costs almost double an equivalent synthetic layer, but I believe it's worth it. Three of the best merino brands on the market currently are:

■ Smartwool ■ Icebreaker The first merino brand on the Irish Massive product range from short- market, Smartwool then disappeared sleeve tees to hoodies, socks, boxers, from outdoors shops for a few years shorts, bike clothing…and even a but it has since re-emerged with an collection that wouldn't look out of extended collection. Larger fit than place at a fashion show (Black Sheep). Icebreaker, they have recently Patagonia introduced the SmartLoft mid-layer ■ Though they produce a smaller collection, which uses a mixed wool merino range than the two brands and synthetic blend for insulation. above – with tees both short-sleeve and long, tights and underwear – Patagonia should not be considered a 'Johnny come lately' jumping on the Merino bandwagon. They are still, to my knowledge, the only brand using merino wool in their wetsuits – to great effect. In addition, their use of merino as part of a layering system ties in with the brand’s well-known environmental credentials.

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 59 Approach shoes

Salomon Ultra Gtx Pros ❚ Fit – one of Salomon’s best features ❚ ■ Out of the box comfort ❚ Grippy, even on wet I’ve had many pairs of Salomon shoes grass, which is impressive given the shallow-ish over the last fifteen years and loved tread pattern ❚ Quick lacing system needs little the feeling of lightness and support, or no re-adjustment during the day particularly the long-running XA Pro €140 3d model. So when I tried the X Ultra Cons ❚ Smell – for some reason I find Salomon’s Gtx out of the box, I was initially shoes tend to smell after a few months of use, dismayed by the heavy weight and much more so than other brands I’ve used clunky feel. However, once out on the hills I quickly realised that it shouldn’t Ideal for ❚ Long hikes/treks with a daypack, e.g. be considered a heavy trail runner, the Camino de Santiago, the Inca Trail or the rather a lightweight hiking boot/shoe. Tour du Mont Blanc (after the passes are clear) With that in mind... S

5.10 Guide Tennie Pros ❚ Very comfortable ❚ Feeling of long- ■ term durability ❚ Sticky sole unit works well The Guide Tennie is an iconic approach on most kinds of rock shoe, thanks in part to the sticky dot sole, which was a trickle-down from €140 Cons ❚ Lack of waterproof membrane limits it 5.10’s line of climbing shoes. I suspect to dry days on the Irish hills ❚ Flat sole is another reason for its popularity is the great for scrambling and climbing, less so for style – the Tennie doesn’t scream hiking as it feels a little too rigid outdoor geek, you could perceivably wear this clubbing, though with the Ideal for ❚ Scrambling, long, easy multi-pitch sticky sole, you won’t be showing off routes; big walls your Moonwalking skills! Boots

■ La Sportiva Trango S Evo Pros ❚ Snug heel cup, no heel lift = no blisters on the heel ❚ Neat fit all around, no sloppiness ❚ Neat fit is also an advantage I’ve long been a fan of La Sportiva’s boots, when it comes to watching foot placements, especially when mainly because they tend to fit my feet €280 scrambling or on via ferrata ❚ Sole has some rocker for use on from the off, but, and it might cause me trails ❚ Synthetic leather and fabric has enough flex to enable grief for saying this, it also has something efficient French technique or when traversing steep slopes to do with my dislike of the wall of unrelenting brown boots I see in many Cons ❚ Cost – €280 is a lot for a pair of mountaineering outdoor stores. So, like a magpie with a boots, but you do get a lot for your money shiny object, so too my eye is drawn to brightly coloured footwear. Luckily, La Ideal for ❚ Scottish winter mountaineering (for higher Sportiva boots are not all mouth and no grades, I’d buy the stiffer and warmer Trango Extreme), trousers – they have the heritage, fit and GR20, HRP, summer alpine mountaineering build quality to back it up! S

Salewa Rapace Pros ❚ Wore the boots from the box for eighteen ■ hours straight on the hills with zero discomfort ❚ Salewa has long lingered on the fringes of Slight sole rocker allows you to walk on tarmac as the British and Irish market, only well as on the hills with minimal worry about blisters appearing when climbers returned from an ❚ No leaks despite boot being submerged during a Alpine trip that happened to include gear €220 stream-crossing ❚ Semi-stiff sole unit enables New- shopping! With their acquisition last year Matic style crampon use (semi-automatic) ❚ This of Wild Country, one of the UK’s best also means they work great as scrambling boots known and loved climbing brands, they have the ability to expand their influence Cons ❚ None and offer a wider product range to Irish hikers, climbers and alpinists. The Rapace Ideal for ❚ Trekking, year-round use in Ireland, boot has been designed for lightweight scrambling, via ferrata, summer alpine mountaineering, tough trekking and via mountaineering ferrata.

60 Irish Mountain Log Autumn 2013 ADVERTORIAL

Make power when the sun shines Mike Schwartz looks for an effective solar charger to recharge his small electronic devices when hiking

Over the last couple of years, I ■ It requires no batteries to have been looking for an operate this charger. It is effective portable solar charger important to have a portable to recharge the electronic solar charger that does not use devices I take with me when I batteries. Trickle chargers that go hiking, such as my use internal batteries first have smartphone, head-torch, MP3 to charge those batteries player, camera and portable before charging a device. In UV water treatment wand. some cases, using a Trickle However, I couldn’t find such charger, it could take as long a charger with solid reviews as 15 hours to fully charge based on in-the-field even a small device like a experience. smartphone. In addition, the rechargeable internal batteries I read Alun Richardson’s will eventually fail, especially informative article Power in when exposed for long hours remote locations (IML 104, pp under the sun. 69-70), which offered a helpful overview and was a ■ Suntactics uses auto-retry good place to start my technology. This is a new research. Then, for a thru-hike technology that allows solar on the John Muir Trail (in the chargers to automatically re- Sierra Nevada, California), start after they have been which I recently completed, I temporarily blocked from the discovered the Suntactics sun. One of the qualms that solar charger. I was extremely people have about portable pleased with the charger’s solar charging is that whenever performance during my trip. a solar charger is in the shade Based on my experience, this or an object blocks the sun John Muir Trail, Sierra Nevada Mountains, California solar charger addresses many, from it, the solar charger stops if not all, of the concerns Alun charging. Many solar chargers raises in his article. do not have an auto-retry wall charging outlet would built of high-grade resin The five main reasons that I capability. allow you to do. composite boards that are not decided to invest in a easy to bend. They are also Suntactics solar charger for my ■ It allows you to use a device ■ It is durable and long- extremely strong and the thin hike were: while recharging it. One of the lasting. Gadgets like solar laminate coating makes them most convenient features that chargers can be very delicate water and weather resistant. ■ It is a very efficient high- Suntactics has is that it will items, especially when made quality solar charger, which recharge a device, while out of cheap plastic. Conclusion uses monocrystalline solar allowing you to use it at the Suntactics chargers are highly There are many solar chargers cells, the most efficient type same time, like a standard durable and reliable. They are out there in the marketplace, of solar cells available. Other but a lot of them do not meet solar chargers use cheap even one of these plastic parts and heavy plastic, specifications. In my making them less efficient. If experience, Suntactics solar solar cells are covered in thick chargers meet all of them, plastic or glass, some UV light which is very important when will bounce off the unit and one is in a remote area or on a not be absorbed by the solar long-distance hike like the cells. Suntactics use a thin John Muir Trail. laminate to cover their solar ® See, also, Mike’s Hikes cells, giving them better UV advertisement on page 13. absorption, which in turn means a higher electrical ® Mike Schwartz is a member of output. Comeragh Mountaineering Club ■

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 61 THE LAST WORD

Layton Kor JIM HERRINGTON Leading American climber of the 1960s GALEN ROWELL

body at the foot of the wall, something which impacted significantly on Kor. Kor wanted to finish the route but the rest of the team, high up on the North Face, were concerned that anyone using the fixed lines would meet the same fate as Harlin. They jettisoned the ropes and went for the top, leaving Kor behind. The following year, Kor was back home in Layton Kor topping out on the Salathé Wall, El Capitan, in the Yosemite Valley, California. Colorado but, after finding Harlin’s body, some of his enthusiasm for climbing had deserted him. He made the second ascent of the Salathé Wall, said to be one of the world’s most spectacular rock climbs, on El

Layton Kor, a leading American rockclimberst In 1966, Kor, who was renowned for his Capitan. However, that was his last major in the 1960s, the ‘Golden Age’ of American technical skills on steep, rotten rock, climb. Soon afterwards, he gave up serious climbing, died in Arizona on April 21 , teamed up with fellow-American John climbing and became a Jehovah’s Witness, 2013, at the age of 74, after a long illness Harlin II and Dougal Haston to attempt a Beyondpursuing the his Vertical. religious and spiritual life with due to kidney failure and prostate cancer. new direct route on the North Face of the the same dedication and passion he had He was best known, perhaps, by European Eiger. They were joined by Chris Bonington, once devoted to his sport. He wrote about climbers for his involvement in the 1966 initially as a photographer but then as a full his religious conversion in his classic book, attempt on a direct route on the North Face team member. The team aimed to go almost of the Eiger, which was ultimately straight up the cliffs and icefields, over the Despite his poor health, Kor put up one successful but during which fellow most exposed and difficult terrain on the Patricklast new O’Sullivan route in 2009, when he was 70, on American John Harlin II to his death. North Face. Kor led a crucial pitch high up a crumbling tower in the Arizona desert. Kor was one of America’s greatest the route, which drained him physically so Layton“Climbing Kor: is born hard June to give 11th up,”, 1938; he said.died April climbers. He came from a small town in that he had to return to the ground to 21st, 2013 ■ Minnesota and was a bricklayer by trade. In recover. While he was down there, tragedy the mid-1950s, Kor’s parents relocated to struck when Harlin’s rope was severed by a Boulder, Colorado, where he took up sharp edge and he fell thousands of feet to climbing. He taught himself to climb and his death. Kor and Bonington found Harlin’s TERRA3 put up many first ascents there, especially in Eldorado Canyon, Boulder Canyon, the Flatirons and Lumpy Ridge. No American climber before or since has completed so many first ascents in such a short space of time. In 10 years, nearly every major cliff in the United States had a route put up by Kor. The rock spires of America’s southwestern deserts, often loose and crumbly, were Kor’s natural terrain. However, he did go further afield to climbing venues such as Yosemite, where he did the third ascent of the Nose and the first ascent of West Buttress on El Capitan, and to the Diamond on Longs Peak, in Colorado, where he put up Yellow Wall. Notable among his first ascentsFifty were the Kor took part in the 1966 attempt to put a direct route up the North Face of the Eiger. ClassicKor-Ingalls Climbs Route of North on Castleton America. Tower and The Finger of Fate Route on the Titan, 62FisherIrish Towers, Mountain both in Log Utah and both of Autumn 2013 which were included in the book Mountaineering Ireland continues to provide the book service previously operated by Joss Lynam. We can supply you with guidebooks and maps to almost any part of the world. For the walker, there is a large collection of Cicerone guides and books, or the wider selection of books and guides distributed by Cordee which also includes many climbing guides. Books reviewed in the Irish Mountain Log can usually be purchased through Joss Books with a members’ discount. To place an order, ring the Mountaineering Ireland office on (01) 6251115 or email [email protected].

Autumn 2013 Irish Mountain Log 63 For more information visit www.mountaineering.ie or contact the office on (01) 625 1115

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