Sewing-Embellishments-Ebook.Pdf

1 Pretty Cat, Baby Bear Sewing + Mini Mouse 2 Stepping-Stones sew embellishments: Pot Holder 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, Collage Wrap Skirt sewing made modern. 3 daily and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sewdaily

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Welcome to our Sew Daily eBook: 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques. One of the most wonderful things about embellishments is that they can be applied to a project you have created or a store-bought item. Embellishment techniques let you to be as creative as you want to be, and they add a personalized, handmade touch to any item. In this Sewing Embellishments eBook, you will find three pretty projects that will expand your skills in all directions, from hand embroidery to appliqué to beading. The Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse patterns by Heidi Boyd allow you to create a trio of cuddly playmates while also building your skills in embroidery and adding decorative details. Their expressive faces are fashioned from felted sweaters and simple embroidery, while colorful cotton print bodies make these huggables Photo by Larry Stein nursery-ready. The Stepping-Stones Pot Holder by Kevin Kosbab lends an elegant and earthy touch to your kitchen, and you’ll learn a way to appliqué when securing the fused felt circles with a blanket stitch. Those wool “stones” aren’t just for show—they also add an extra layer of 1 Pretty Cat, Baby Bear protection from heat for your table. This is a win-win . + Mini Mouse...... 3 project: beautiful, functional, and instructional. Venture into garment construction with the Collage 2 Stepping-Stones Pot Holder...... 7 Wrap Skirt by Stitch founding editor Tricia Waddell. 3 Collage Wrap Skirt...... 10 A simple wrap skirt (no fitting!) employs a freehand sew collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqué for daily a one-of-a-kind design. Combine these techniques with different textured fabrics, and you have skirt that will travel from day to night with aplomb. sew Once you get started with embellishment, I think daily you will truly fall in love with it for the boundless pos- Editor Amber Eden designer Jocelin Damien sibilities you can bring to the techniques. These projects Illustration Ann Sabin Swanson will get you started embellishing, and from there, the Photography Joe Hancock (unless otherwise noted) sky is the limit! Project Designers Heidi Boyd, Kevin Kosbab, and Tricia Waddell Happy stitching, Projects and information are for inspiration and personal use only. Sew Daily amber eden and Stitch magazine are not responsible for any liability arising from errors, Editor, Stitch magazine and omissions, or mistakes contained in this eBook, and readers should proceed cau- tiously, especially with respect to technical information. Interweave grants per- SewDaily mission to photocopy any patterns published in this issue for personal use only.

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 2 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments ssewewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques ssewewdaily Pretty Cat, Baby Bear + Mini-Mouse

A rainbow of colors and prints combine to make this trio of adorable playmates. Create expressive faces with felted sweaters and simple embroidery, then add fun embellishments to make huggable friends.

by Heidi Boyd

Pretty Cat Fabric —¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for head, body, tail, and shoes (shown here: red check by Michael Miller) —¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for arms (shown here: Pop Garden stripes) — ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for legs (shown here: Lightning Bugs and Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for Free Spirit) — ¼ yd (23 cm) of print cotton for skirt (shown here: Pop Garden red floral) —Felted sweater or fleece scrap for face (at least 5” × 5” [12.5 × 12.5 cm] —Felted sweater or fleece scrap for nose Other Supplies —Pattern templates starting on Page 14 —Coordinating sewing thread —DMC embroidery floss for eyes, whiskers, and mouth (I used blue, pink, and green)

For explanations of terms + techniques used click here for our Sewing Basics online

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 3 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document.document visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sew daily Step 6. With right sides together, place a Tail End and Tail piece together, matching up the edges where the cut line was on the pattern template. Stitch them together and press the seams open. Repeat the entire step with the remaining Tail End and Tail pieces. 6 Pin the finished Tail pieces right sides together and seam all around the edge, leaving the top (flat edge) open for stuffing. Trim seam allowances to ¼” (6 mm). Clip the seam allowances before turning.

figure 2 7 Turn the tail right side out and stuff with fiberfill or natural fill. Leave about —Cut 4 Cat Arm ½” (1.3 cm) of the tail empty of stuffing —Cut 4 Cat Leg at the top. figure 1 —Cut 2 Cat Skirt on fold Create Main Body —Cut 4 Cat Shoe —6 precut felt flowers in various sizes 8 With right sides together, pin one (I used matching sizes for the two —Cut 1 Cat Face Skirt piece to the bottom edge of each buttons and shoe decorations) —Cut 1 Cat Nose Head /Body piece. Position the flat (open) edge of the finished tail between —Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo) Create Face the notches on the back Skirt piece, —2 small buttons (I used 3⁄8” [1 cm] 2 With the Cat Head/Body piece facing tucking the tail between the Head/Body round buttons) right side up, center the Cat face on the and Skirt pieces, and pin it in place. —Fabric marking pen head portion, right side up; pin in place. 9 Stitch both pieces just pinned, —Handsewing needle Topstitch around the outside edge of the trapping the tail seam allowance in 1 —Embroidery needle Cat Face (about ⁄8” [3 mm] from the edge) the seam of the back piece. Press the to secure the face to the cat’s head. seams open. (figure 2) —Point turner (optional) 3 Handstitch the felt nose piece to 0 With right sides together, pin two of Notes the center of the face (or slightly closer the arm pieces together. Stitch around —All seam allowances are ½” (1.3 cm) to the bottom) using a whipstitch (see the arm, leaving the top (angled flat unless otherwise indicated. Sewing Basics). Use an embroidery edge) open. Trim the seam allowances —To create felted sweater scraps, put needle and a full six strands of to ¼” (6 mm), then turn the arm right a 100% wool sweater through the embroidery floss to make French knots side out and stuff with fiberfill or washer (in hot water with a little for eyes, placing them as desired, above natural fill. Leave about ½” (1.3 cm) of detergent) and dryer to compress the and to the sides of the nose. Use long the arm empty of stuffing at the top. fibers, then cut as indicated below. stitches to create whiskers on each side Repeat the entire step to create the of the nose. (I placed three whiskers second arm. Clip the seam allowances Cut Out Fabric on each side, using varying lengths. before turning. 1 Each whisker was created using one Using the pattern templates, trace - With right sides together, pin a Shoe long stitch.) Create a mouth using and cut out all pattern pieces as follows. piece to the small end of each Leg backstitch. Refer to the photo on page 3 Transfer all pattern markings to the piece. Stitch each together and press for the face on the cat. wrong side of the fabric with a fabric the seams open. marking pen. 4 Stitch felt flowers to one side of the = With right sides together, pin two head, just below the ear (I used two —Cut 2 Cat Head/Body on fold of the Leg/Shoe pieces together, and stacked felt flowers and stitched them —Cut 2 Cat Tail (If you choose the seam around the edge, leaving the through the center by whipstitching [see optional color change for the tail, cut top open for stuffing. Trim the seam Sewing Basics] in place a few times). the pattern template on the dashed allowances to ¼” (6 mm), then turn the (figure 1) line and add ½” [1.3 cm] on each leg right side out and stuff with fiberfill piece at the cut line. Otherwise, Create Tail or natural fill. Leave about ½” (1.3 cm) simply cut out the entire tail as one 5 If you did not choose the optional of the leg empty of stuffing at the top. piece.) color change for the tail, skip to Repeat the entire step to create the

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 4 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sew second leg. dailyClip the seam allowances before turning. q With right sides together, pin the finished Head/Body/Skirt pieces together. Position the flat (open) edge of one of the stuffed arms between the notches on each side, tucking the arms between the Head/Body/Skirt pieces, and pin in place. Notes w Begin at one corner of the skirt and — All seam allowances are ½” (1.3 cm) stitch up the side. Continue around, unless otherwise indicated. trapping both arms in the seams and —To create felted scraps, put a 100% ending at the other corner of the skirt. wool sweater through the washer (in Leave the bottom of the skirt open for hot water with a little detergent) and stuffing. dryer to compress the fibers, then e Place the legs up inside the cat, cut as indicated below. positioning them side by side, between Cut Out Fabric the notches. Match up the flat (open) figure 3 1 edges of the legs with the edges of the Using the pattern templates, cut out skirt and pin in place. Stitch across all pattern pieces as follows. Transfer modern by Amy Butler for Rowan one side of the skirt and over the legs, all pattern markings to the wrong side Fabrics) stopping beside the legs and leaving the of the fabric with a fabric-marking pen. other side of the skirt open for turning. —¼ yd (23 cm) of floral print for pocket —Cut 2 Bear Head/Arm on fold from (shown here: Joel Dewberry for chenille r Trim the seam allowances to ¼” Westminster Fibers) (6 mm), trimming slightly closer around —Cut 2 Bear Ear from chenille and 2 the ears. Do not trim the open edge of —¼ yd (23 cm) of floral print for mouse from print fabric the skirt. Clip the seam allowance at the (shown here: Lightning Bugs and —Cut 2 Bear Leg on fold from print tips of the ears and along the curves so Other Mysteries by Heather Ross for fabric Free Spirit) the seams will lie flat. Turn the cat right —Cut 2 Bear Pocket from floral print side out. Use a point turner to push out —1⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) of fusible interfacing fabric the tips of the ears. —Felted sweater scrap or fleece for —Cut 1 Bear Pocket from fusible t Stuff the cat with fiberfill or natural face (at least 4” × 5” [10 × 12.5 cm]) interfacing, trim ½” (1.3 cm) all fill, pushing stuffing up into the ears —Contrasting felted sweater scrap or around the interfacing piece first, and then continue stuffing the rest fleece for nose (at least 1½” × 1½” —Cut 1 Bear Face from felt scrap or of the cat’s head and body. Handstitch [3.8 3.8 cm]) fleece the opening at the bottom of the skirt closed with a blindstitch. Other Supplies —Cut 1 Bear Nose from felt scrap or fleece y For extra character, add two sets —Pattern templates starting on Page 14 of flowers and buttons down the kitty’s —Matching sewing thread —Cut 2 Mouse on fold from floral print fabric front (I stacked one button at the center —Fiberfill or natural fill (bamboo) of each flower and stitched them down —Cut 4 Mouse Ear from floral print —6” (15 cm) of ¼” (6 mm) wide printed to the cat through the buttons) and a fabric ribbon small flower on each shoe (I placed mine at the center top of each shoe, —DMC embroidery floss for bear eyes Create Face securing them through the center with and mouth and mouse eyes, mouth, 2 With both pieces facing right side French knots). and whiskers (I used blue, brown, up, pin the Face to the center of the and light tan) head portion of one Head/Arm piece. Baby Bear and —Felt bead for mouse nose Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) around 1 Mini Mouse —Fabric-marking pen the outside edge of the face about ⁄8” (3 mm) from the edge to secure the face to Fabric —Handsewing needle the bear’s head. —½ yd (46 cm) of chenille —Embroidery needle 3 Handstitch the felted wool or fleece —½ yd (46 cm) of print fabric for legs Nose piece to the center of the Face and ears (shown here: Midwest using a slipstitch (see Sewing Basics).

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 5 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sew 4 With an embroiderydaily needle and a full of the topstitching to keep the pocket Mouse piece. Place the Mouse Ears six strands of embroidery floss, make secure. on the same Mouse piece just used, French knots (see Sewing Basics) for 9 Placing right sides together, pin positioning them between the notches the eyes, placing them as desired above one print fabric Ear to one chenille on the head portion and matching up and to the side of the nose. Create Ear. Stitch around the ear, leaving the the raw edges. Place the second Mouse a wide mouth using backstitch (see bottom open. Trim the seam allowance piece right side down on top, trapping Sewing Basics). Refer to the photo on to ¼” (6 mm) and clip around the curves the ears and ribbon tail between the page 3 for the face on the bear. if necessary. Turn the ear right side layers (curl the ribbon as necessary out. Repeat the entire step with the to make sure none of it is sticking out Create Main Body from between the layers). Pin the pieces 5 remaining print fabric and chenille Ear Placing right sides together, pin pieces. together, securing the tail and ears in one Head/Arm piece to one Leg piece. place. Stitch around the mouse, leaving 0 Stitch the pieces together and press Pin the ears, print side down, to the a 2” (5 cm) opening for turning. Trim the seams open. Repeat the entire step right side of the bear’s head, placing the seam allowances to ¼” (6 mm) and with the remaining Head/Arm and Leg each ear between the notches and clip if necessary. Turn the mouse right pieces. matching up the raw edges. side out and then stuff with fiberfill or - 6 Use an iron to fuse the interfacing Placing right sides together, pin the natural fill. to the wrong side of one of the Pocket back and front of the bear together, e Fold in the seam allowances of the pieces, according to the manufacturer’s leaving the ears sandwiched between opening and handstitch closed with a instructions. the layers. Stitch the bear together, slip stitch. 7 trapping the ears in the seam and r Placing right sides together, pin the leaving a 3” (7.5 cm) opening on Use six full strands of embroidery Pocket pieces together. Stitch the two one side for turning. Trim the seam floss and an embroidery needle to make layers together, leaving the top edge allowance to ¼” (6 mm) and clip as two French knot (see Sewing Basics) open. Trim the seam allowances to ¼” necessary around the curves (see eyes, then create two whiskers on each (6 mm) and turn the pocket right side Step 9). Turn the bear right side out side of the nose, using one long stitch out. Fold ½” (1.3 cm) of the top pocket through the opening. for each. Create a small mouth using edges down into the pocket and press. backstitch (see Sewing Basics). Refer to = Topstitch (see Sewing Basics) along the Push fiberfill or natural fill into the photo on page 3 to see the face on top edge of the pocket about ¼” (6 mm) the arms and legs first and then begin the mouse. filling the stomach and head. Fold in the from the edge. t Handstitch the felt bead nose to 8 seam allowances of the opening and Center the finished pocket over handstitch closed with a slip stitch. the center of the mouse’s face, just the lower portion of the front of the above the mouth, using a slipstitch bear (with the face), making sure the Make Mini Mouse (see Sewing Baiscs) around the edges base of the pocket doesn’t interfere q Placing right sides together, pin and hiding the stitching as much as with his legs (the top of the pocket will two of the Mouse Ear pieces together. possible. be about level with the bottom of the Stitch around the ear, leaving the y Slip the mouse into the bear’s arms). (figure 3) Pin the pocket in place bottom open. Turn the ear right side pocket. and then topstitch around the edge of out. Repeat the entire step with the heidi boyd is the author of ten books with the pocket, starting at the edge of the remaining Mouse Ear pieces. North Light Books, most notably the Simply topstitched line across the top of the w pocket. Make a continuous stitch line Place the printed ribbon on the Beautiful series. She has a fine art degree and down one side of the pocket, across the right side of one of the Mouse pieces, got her start in professional crafting as a con- matching the edge of the ribbon tail bottom, and up the other side, leaving tributor to Better Homes and Gardens books and to the Bottom/Side raw edge of the the top open. Backstitch at both ends magazines. heidiboyd.blogspot.com.

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Stepping-Stones Pot Holder

The wool “stones” on this Fabric Other Supplies 1 felt pot holder aren’t just for See Notes. —⁄4 yd (23 cm) insulated batting (such 1 as Insul-Bright from The Warm show—they add an extra layer — ⁄4 yd (23 cm) of 36” (91 cm) wide or to protect your table from heat. wider wool felt (Main; shown: muted Company) 1 The appliqué circles are at- maroon) —⁄8 yd (11.5 cm) fusible web tached with fusible web and —Scraps of wool felt in 4 different —Brown embroidery floss finished by hand with a simple colors (assign each color a number, blanket stitch. 1–4; shown: pink [#1], muted yellow For explanations of [#2], dark sage green [#3], and light terms + techniques used by Kevin Kosbab click here for our sage green [#4]) Sewing Basics online

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E C D

C B

B D C D —Press cloth —Hand-embroidery needle —Stepping-Stones Pot Holder D templates on Page 9 C Finished Size: B 1 7 ⁄4” (18.5 cm) diameter. Notes —Follow the manufacturer’s instructions when using the fusible web. However, you may want to use steam to help the heat penetrate pot holder color key through the thick felt, even if the manufacturer recommends a dry iron. #1 (pink) —Feel free to mix felted wool of #2 (muted yellow) different textures, including wool #3 (dark sage green) recycled from felted clothing. Just be #4 (light sage green) sure not to use acrylic felt if you want a functional pot holder, because the heat from a dish could melt it.

Cut Fabric 3 Cut out the fusible web circles Attach Circle Appliqués 1 1 Trace and cut 2 of template A from roughly ⁄4” (6 mm) outside the 5 Peel the paper backings from the 1 the Main felt. Cut a 5” × ⁄2” (12.5 × lines. Following the manufacturer’s fused felt circles. Arrange the circles, 1.3 cm) strip from the Main felt. Cut 1 of instructions, press the web to the wrong fusible side down, on one of the Main A template F from the insulated batting. side of the felt scraps as indicated (or pieces, referring to the diagram above as desired). 2 Trace the remaining templates onto for guidance on placement. Press the paper side of fusible web, tracing the —From felt #1: 1 each of B, C, D, and E with a steam iron to adhere the circle number indicated below. Be sure to leave —From felt #2: 1 of B, 2 of D appliqués to the Main piece. Note: Cover at least ½” (1.3 cm) between circles. the felt with a press cloth to help avoid —From felt #3: 3 of C, 1 of D a shiny appearance from the heat of —3 of template B —From felt #4: 1 each of B, C, D, and E fusing. —5 of template C 4 Cut the fused felt circles along the 6 Using 2 strands of embroidery floss —5 of template D traced lines. and the hand embroidery needle, blanket —2 of template E stitch around each of the circle appliqués.

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B Stepping-stones A pot holder template

F C

Assemble Pot Holder half and insert both ends between the the batting and catching the hanging 7 Center the batting circle on the layers of felt, overlapping the ends and loop in the stitches. 1 inserting about ⁄2” (1.3 cm) between the wrong side of the remaining Main circle, Kevin Kosbab is a writer, an editor, and layers. Pin the strip in place. then place the appliquéd Main circle a pattern designer. His modern quilts and on top right side up, so the batting 8 Again using 2 strands of sewing projects have appeared in Stitch, and is sandwiched between the circles. embroidery floss, blanket stitch his Feed Dog Designs patterns are available on Pin around the perimeter. To make a securely around the Main pieces to the Web at feeddog.net. hanging loop, fold the attach them to each other, enclosing 1 5” × ⁄2” (12.5 × 1.3 cm) Main felt strip in

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 9 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sewdaily Collage Wrap Skirt Elevate a simple wrap skirt by combining panels of texture. Contrast matte linen with metallic luster, then add a freehand collage of hand embroidery, beading, and appliqué for a one-of-kind design. Topstitched seams and a decorative button closure add the finishing touches. by Tricia waddell

Fabric 2 2 3 3 1 —1 ⁄3 (1 ⁄3, 2 ⁄8, 2 ⁄8, 2 ⁄2) yd (1.5 [1.5, 2.2, 2.2, 2.3] m) of 45” (114.5 cm) wide or 2 2 2 7 7 1 ⁄3 (1 ⁄3, 1 ⁄3, 1 ⁄8, 1 ⁄8) yd (1.5 [1.5, 1.5, 1.7, 1.7] m) of 60” (152.5 cm) wide medium-weight linen (Main; shown: medium gray)

7 —⁄8 yd (80 cm; all sizes) of 45–60” (114.5–152.5 cm) wide light-to medium-weight metallic fabric (Contrast; shown: sheer silver polyester drapery fabric)

3 —2 ⁄4” × 4” (7 × 10 cm) piece of contrasting fabric for appliqué (shown: yellow douppioni silk) Other Supplies 1 —⁄4 yd (23 cm; all sizes) of 22” (56 cm) wide light- to medium-weight fusible interfacing —Double-stick fusible web for appliqué (Recommended: Steam-A-Seam 2) —Coordinating thread for Main fabric —Matching thread for Contrast metallic fabric (optional) —Beading thread to match your beads (such as Coats & Clark Beading Thread Art. D35)

For explanations of terms + techniques used click here for our Sewing Basics online

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 10 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sewdaily Waist Hip CB Length 1 X-Small 25–26" (63.5–66 cm) 34–36" (86.5–91.5 cm) 24 ⁄2" (62 cm) Small 27–28" (68.5–71 cm) 36–38" (91.5–96.5 cm) 25" (63.5 cm) 1 Medium 29–30" (73.5–76 cm) 38–40" (96.5–101.5 cm) 25 ⁄2" (65 cm) Large 32–33" (81.5–84 cm) 40–43" (101.5–109 cm) 26" (66 cm) 1 1 1 X-Large 35 ⁄2–36 ⁄2" (90–92.5 cm) 43–47" (109–119.5 cm) 26 ⁄2" (67.5 cm) shown in size small

—Embroidery floss or #3 pearl cotton (shown: silver metallic embroidery out of your Contrast fabric and cut 1 floss) Left Front Skirt piece out of your Main —Handsewing needle fabric. If your Contrast fabric is opaque, no underlining is necessary. —Embroidery needle From the Main fabric, cut: —Beading needle (optional) —The topstitching on the sample is —1 Right Front Skirt —Small beads for bead embroidery stitched with a coordinating thread (shown: silver beads) that is a slightly lighter color than the —1 Left Front Skirt 1 —⁄2” (13 mm) shank button (shown: Main fabric color so that the stitching —1 Skirt Back on the fold silver metal) is more obvious. If you would like the —1 Right Front Waistband —2 flat bar-style hook-and-eye closures stitching to blend in, use a matching —1 Left Front Waistband —Dressmaker’s carbon and tracing thread. With coordinating thread, wheel (optional, for embroidery whether it is lighter or darker, the —1 Back Waistband design transfer) stitching will be more visible than From the Contrast fabric, cut: —Chalk wheel or erasable fabric matching thread would be, which —1 Left Front Skirt marker means you need to sew carefully to —Tailor’s ham (optional) keep the stitches even and maintain From the interfacing, cut: —Buttonhole foot for sewing machine a consistent distance from the seam —1 Right Front Waistband —Serger (optional) line or edge. —1 Left Front Waistband —Full-size pattern starting on Page 22 —It is important to use beading thread —1 Back Waistband Interfacing to sew beads onto garments because Notes beading thread is made from strong, 5 Assemble the Skirt —All seam allowances are ⁄8” (1.5 cm) smooth 100% continuous-filament 2 unless otherwise noted. Sew a line of staystitching along the nylon that is specially treated to resist edge of the waistline on all skirt pieces —For the embroidery design, use the abrasion and tangling. Also, it pulls (including the Contrast Left Front Skirt, template provided or freehand draw through fabric effortlessly. If you use 1 if it is sheer), about ⁄2” (1.3 cm) from the your own design with a chalk wheel. conventional sewing thread to sew raw edges. —The embellished Right Front Skirt lies beads onto fabric, over time the fibers 3 On the Skirt Back, fold each dart in on top of the Contrast Left Front Skirt. of the thread will be worn thin by the half, with right sides together, matching On the sample shown, the selvedge beads, and the beads have a greater the transferred dart lines. Set your edge of the linen was used along chance of falling off. machine stitch length to the front vertical edge of the Right Cut the Fabric 2.0 mm and begin sewing at the wide Front Skirt piece for added design 1 end, backtacking a few stitches, then interest. If you would like to do this, Assemble the full-size pattern. Cut continue sewing toward the dart point. keep in mind that when you cut out the following pattern pieces, referring When you get to within a few stitches your fabric, you will align the selvedge to the cutting layout for assistance. of the point, change the stitch length to edge with the fold line marked on the Transfer all pattern markings to the 1.0 mm and continue through the point pattern piece. For a hemmed finished wrong side of the fabric except for the and beyond (into nothing), leaving a 4” edge, cut the fabric as shown on the markings for the button and buttonhole, (10 cm) thread tail. Tie a few overhand pattern piece. which should be transferred to the right side of the fabric. If it is difficult knots right next to the dart points, then —If your Contrast fabric is sheer (as it is to discern the wrong side of the fabric, use a handsewing needle to pull the on the sample skirt) you will overlay it use a piece of tape to mark your wrong tails to the inside of the dart and out the on your Main fabric, which will be an sides to keep all the pieces the same. wide end. Remove the needle and trim underlining. Cut 1 Left Front Skirt piece the thread tails that extend beyond the

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 11 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sew edge of the waistline.daily Press the darts w Install your sewing machine’s toward the center of the Skirt Back. For buttonhole foot (referring to your best results, press them on a tailor’s sewing machine manual for assistance). ham (you can use a firmly rolled-up Using the markings you transferred towel in place of a tailor’s ham). from the pattern as your guide, make 4 If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric the buttonhole on the waistband, with is not sheer, skip this step and go to Step matching or coordinating thread. 5. If your Left Front Skirt Contrast fabric Consider making a sample buttonhole is sheer, place your Left Front Skirt on a scrap of your fabric, before Main piece on your work surface, right stitching the buttonhole onto your side facing up. With the right side facing waistband. Remove the buttonhole foot up, place your Left Front Skirt Contrast and reinstall the conventional foot. corresponding Waistband Main fabric piece on top of the Main piece, matching Put a pin in the bartacked ends of the pieces, following the manufacturer’s the notches along the left-hand side buttonhole to prevent cutting through instructions. seams, the right-hand front vertical those stitches and use a seam ripper edges, and the waistline edges. Pin the 9 With right sides together and raw or small sharp scissors to carefully cut three sides together and then machine- edges aligned, pin and then sew the the buttonhole open. Using the button baste them together, ½” (1.3 cm) from Waistband pieces at the side seams to marking as a guide, handsew the button the raw edges. Finish the layered piece create one continuous piece. Press the in place using matching thread. by folding the front vertical edge ½” seam allowances open. e Now it’s time to sew on the hooks (1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press. 0 Fold the Waistband in half and eyes. With the wrong side of Fold to the wrong side again on the lengthwise, with wrong sides together, the Right Front Skirt facing up, on marked fold line and press. Using and then press to make a crease on the the buttonhole end of the waistband 1 matching thread, topstitch the folds in long folded edge. position one hook ⁄8” (3 mm) from the place, ½” (1.3 cm) from the folded edge. finished front vertical edge. Make sure - Unfold the creased Waistband and, You have now assembled the Left Front it is centered between the long edges with right sides together and with one Skirt. of the waistband, and then sew the long edge of the Waistband aligned with hook in place. Insert the button into the 5 If you wish to have the Main fabric’s the edge of the waistline of the skirt, buttonhole. selvedge edge on the front vertical match the Waistband side seams with edge of the Right Front Skirt instead of the skirt side seams. Next, match the To accurately position the corresponding a hemmed edge, this piece is ready to center front and center back notches. eye, with the buttoned skirt facing right be stitched to the Skirt Back in Step 6. Pin and then sew the Waistband to the side up, press the buttonhole end of Otherwise, fold the front edge ½” skirt. Trim the seam allowances to ¼” the waistband down onto the Left Front (1.3 cm) to the wrong side and press. (6 mm) and clip the curved edges as waistband. Position the eye directly Fold to the wrong side again on the necessary, taking care not to cut into underneath the hook, centering it marked fold line and press. Topstitch the stitching. between the long edges of the waistband the folds in place, ½” (1.3 cm) from the (it will be located between the button and = To finish the long edge on the folded edge. the side seam) and sew the eye in place. opposite side of the waistband, 6 With right sides together, pin the overcast, serge, or zigzag stitch the raw Unbutton the button. With the right Left Front Skirt (or assembled Left edge. Fold the raw short ends of the side of the Left Front facing up, position 1 Front Skirt) to the Skirt Back, matching waistband to the wrong side ½” (1.3 cm) the second hook on the waistband ⁄8” the notches along the side seams. Sew to match the vertical edges at the front (3 mm) from the finished front vertical the pieces together, stitching from the of the skirt. Press. edge. Sew it in place. Button the button bottom edge to the waistline. Follow the and hook the first hook and eye that you q Fold the waistband in half along the same process to sew the Right Front stitched in place. Matching the folded crease to turn the remaining long edge Skirt to the Skirt Back. edges of the top of the waistband on the of the waistband to the inside of the Right Front and Left Front, work from 7 Press the side seam allowances skirt (the waistband is now wrong sides the button/buttonhole end toward the toward the Skirt Back. Topstitch the together). From the right side of the skirt, opposite side, pinning them together. seam allowances in place, ½” (1.3 cm) pin in place. Make sure the two short Press the second hook down onto the from the side seams. ends of the waistband are tucked inside waistband underneath and position the the waistband. Sew in place on the waist Attach the Waistband second eye directly under the second + Finish the Hem seam line by stitching in the ditch. By hook. Sew the eye in place and remove 8 hand, slip-stitch the short ends of the the pins. Fuse the Waistband Interfacing waistband closed, using matching thread. pieces to the wrong sides of the

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crease

figure 1

r To ease the hem allowance, sew a satin stitch, zigzag stitch, or other machine-baste the bottom edge of the decorative stitch around the perimeter skirt, ¼” (6 mm) from the raw edge, of the appliqué. A satin stitch was used starting and ending 3” (7.5 cm) from on the sample skirt. each end. Fold the skirt hem ½” (1.3 y Trace the embroidery template cm) toward the wrong side and press. using dressmaker’s carbon paper Fold the hem over another 1” (2.5 cm) and a tracing wheel or an erasable and press. To finish each of the bottom fabric marker (to use a fabric marker, corners of the two vertical front edges of trace the design, using a light table the skirt, miter the corners by unfolding or bright window if necessary). For a the last fold you made, then take the custom look, freehand draw your own bottom corner and fold it to meet the embroidery design line. crease, making a 45-degree angle u Thread your embroidery needle with (figure 1). Finger press the angled edge, then refold the hem. Pin the hem in all the strands of your embroidery floss place at the mitered corners, matching together or use pearl cotton and then the side seams and the center back. chain-stitch along the transferred or Gently pull the basting stitches to ease drawn line. (see Sewing Basics) in the excess fabric. Topstitch the hem i Use the beading needle and beading in place, ¾” (2 cm) from the bottom thread to sew on the beads, stitching edge of the skirt. By hand, slip-stitch the through each bead twice to secure it mitered corners closed (figure 1). to the fabric. Arrange the beads as desired, or in a loose circular pattern Add the Embellishments at the interior point of the embroidered t Fuse one side of the double-stick line (refer to the photo on page 10 fusible web to the wrong side of the to see the arrangement used on the square of appliqué fabric, following the sample). manufacturer’s instructions. Position Tricia Waddell is the former editor in the appliqué as desired. On the sample chief of Stitch. When she’s not working, she’s skirt, the appliqué is located about 2” (5 cm) from the front vertical edge and 6” sewing. (15 cm) below the waistline seam (refer to the photo on page 10). Fuse in place. By machine, use matching thread to

© Interweave Press LLC Please respect the copyright by not page 13 of 58 Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. forwarding or distributing this document. visit sewdaily.com Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques s1aew CAT NOSE 1b 1c cut 1 BEAR + MINI MOUSE PRETTY CAT, BABY

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEARdaily + MINI MOUSE CAT TAIL END

CAT SHOE PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR cut 4 optional + MINI MOUSE color PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

CAT SKIRT change cut 2 on fold PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT TAIL CAT ARM cut on fold cut 2 cut 4

cut 4 CAT LEG CAT

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BABY PRETTY CAT,

cut on fold

2a 2b 2c PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE cut on fold CAT FACE PRETTY CAT, BEAR LEGS cut 2 on fold cut 1 BABY BEAR +

MINI MOUSE MOUSE EAR cut 4 cut 2 on fold cut on fold BEAR HEAD/ARMS

MOUSE BODY

cut 2 on fold BEAR + MINI MOUSE BABY PRETTY CAT, PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE cut on fold BEAR NOSE PRETTY CAT, BABY cut 1 BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR EAR cut 4

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR POCKET

cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing Pretty Cat, Baby Bear & Mini-Mouse Patterns/Templates

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR FACE cut 1

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE cut 1 CAT ARM

CAT NOSE CAT cut 4

cut 4 cut

CAT LEG CAT

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE MINI + BEAR BABY CAT, PRETTY

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR BABY PRETTY CAT, 1a 1b 1c BEAR + MINI MOUSE PRETTY CAT, BABY

CAT TAIL END

CAT SHOE

optional cut 4 color change PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT TAIL cut 2 1c

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT SKIRT cut 2 on fold

cut on fold

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT HEAD/BODY cut 2 on fold

cut on fold 2a 2b

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE CAT FACE PRETTY CAT, cut 1 BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE MOUSE EAR cut 4

MOUSE BODY cut 2 on fold PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE cut on fold 2b 2c cut 2 on fold cut on fold BEAR HEAD/ARMS PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BABY PRETTY CAT,

BEAR NOSE cut 1 cut on fold

2c PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE

cut on fold BEAR LEGS

cut 2 on fold

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR EAR cut 4 3a

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR POCKET

cut 2 fabric cut 1 interfacing

PRETTY CAT, BABY BEAR + MINI MOUSE BEAR FACE cut 1 Sewing embellishments sewdaily 3 Free Patterns Using Embroidery, Appliqué, and Other Fabric Embellishment Techniques sew Collagedaily Wrap Skirt Patterns 5a 1a 3a 2a 4a

cut 1 interfacing on fold on interfacing 1 cut L back waistband interfacing waistband back M

S COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE XS COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT 5b 3b 2b 1b 4b cut 1 main cut 1 contrast right front skirt right front left front skirt overlay left front COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT COLLAGE COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT COLLAGE main and use contrast piece as overlay) as overlay) piece main and use contrast (if contrast fabric is sheer, also cut 1 from is sheer, fabric (if contrast 5c 3c 2c 1c 4c

5d 3d 2d 1d 4d foldline

CF CF CF CF CF

foldline

CF CF CF CF CF

1e 5e 3e 2e 4e

S L M XL XS

cut 1 main 1 cut

right front waistband front right foldline

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE

S L M XS XL

cut 1 on fold on 1 cut

cut 1 interfacing 1 cut back skirt back

right front waistband interfacing waistband front right

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE

1f 4f 5f 3f 2f

cut 1 interfacing 1 cut

left front waistband interfacing waistband front left

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE

M XL XS

cut 1 main 1 cut

left front waistband front left foldline

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT WRAP COLLAGE

S L M XS XL 1g 4g 3g 2g COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT embroidery template

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT back waistband cut 1 main

foldline

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45" (115 cm) selvedge XS, S, M

right front skirt

selvedges

le front skirt

back skirt back waistband le front waistband le front

right front waistband front right FRONT BACK

fold selvedge

selvedge 45" (115 cm) L, XL

right front skirt

selvedges

le front skirt

back skirt back waistband

le front waistband le front FRONT BACK right front waistband front right

fold selvedge

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60" (152.5 cm) main XS, S, M selvedges

le/right front skirt back waistband le front waistband le front right front waistband front right Cut 1 of each waistband through one ply only through each waistband Cut 1 of

back skirt

fold 60" (152.5 cm) main L, XL selvedges

le/right front skirt

Cut 1 of each waistband piece, through 1 ply only. The Right Front Waistband piece back skirt back waistband is on the lower layer, beneath the le front waistband le front Left Front Waist- band piece.

fold

XL L M S XS COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 1g

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT embroidery template 2a COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

right front skirt

cut 1 main 2b 2c

CF CF

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT back skirt cut 1 on fold 2e 2f 2g 3a COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT left front skirt overlay

cut 1 contrast

(if contrast fabric is sheer, also cut 1 from main and use contrast piece as overlay) 3b

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT front skirt cut 2 main COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

left front skirt overlay

cut 1 contrast 3c 3d

foldline foldline 3e 3f 3g

foldline 4a 4b 4c

CF CF

4e foldline

4f XL 4g

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT back waistband cut 1 main

COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT

back waistband interfacing cut 1 interfacing on fold 5a 5b 5c 5d XL

5e XL

S S

right front waistband interfacing

XS XS COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT right front waistband cut 1 interfacing cut 1 main XL

5f XL

S XS

XS CF COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT left front waistband interfacing COLLAGE WRAP SKIRT left front waistband cut 1 interfacing

cut 1 main foldline