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1Springtime Sprouts COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL springtime 1 sprouts 004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 2828 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM the henry shirt 30 “r” is for romper 34 easy linen shirt 37 mr. two face pants 39 004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 2929 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM Contrast Fabric: Side, Yoke/Sleeve, Closure Strip, and Under Collar: 7 • Size 2/3: ⁄8 yd. • Size 4/5: 1 yd. 1 • Size 6/7: 1 ⁄8 yd. Recommended Fabrics: linen/cotton blend, shot cotton, soft old sheets, quilting cotton, baby wale corduroy, shirting. Notions: coordinating thread, 5 snaps or buttons, point turner, fusible lightweight interfacing, double-sided basting tape (optional). 3 All seams are ⁄8" unless otherwise stated. cut the fabric the henry shirt For this shirt, you’ll need to cut the main and advanced contrasting fabrics using the pattern pieces on page 1: See photo on p. 5. Front: Cut 2 in main fabric. A twist on a classic, The Henry Shirt features Back: Cut 1 on fold in main fabric. large and sturdy pockets. This is a multi-season Side Panel: Cut 2 in contrast fabric. garment, to be worn over a long-sleeved tee for Yoke/Sleeve: Cut 2 in contrast fabric, and cut 2 spring and autumn days; on its own with jeans, in main fabric. shorts, or pants any time. It can also be worn open over a tank or tee for summer versatility. Under Collar: Cut 2 in contrast fabric. The snap closure makes this shirt easy for him Upper Collar: Cut 1 in main fabric, and cut 1 in to dress himself and is handsome whether open interfacing. or closed. Pocket: Cut 2 in main fabric. Closure Strip: Cut 2 in contrasting fabric and supplies cut 1 in interfacing, then cut interfacing strip in half, lengthwise. Fabric Requirements: Main Fabric: Front, Back, Pockets, Yoke/Sleeve, and Upper Collar: prepare the details 7 • Size 2/3: ⁄8 yd. 1 Fuse lightweight interfacing to one-half of each • Size 4/5: 1 yd. closure strip, lengthwise. 1 2 Press each closure strip in half, lengthwise, • Size 6/7: 1 ⁄8 yd. WRONG sides together. 30 04_9780470949559-ch01.indd 30 6/2/11 3:19 PM 3 Open one closure strip and press the long edge 8 1 that is not interfaced ⁄4" toward the WRONG side. Repeat with the other strip. 4 Fuse lightweight interfacing to the upper collar piece. 5 On the back piece, press RIGHT sides together to form the inverted box pleat as indicated on the pattern piece. Pin and baste down 2", press the inverted box pleat fl at and baste across the top raw edge. 5 assemble the shirt body 9 With RIGHT sides together, pin a side panel to pin, baste, and press flat a front panel. Stitch the front panel to the side panel from the top curve to the bottom hem edge, being careful to gently guide the curved seams together as you stitch. Finish the seam allowance. Repeat for the second side. 9 6 With WRONG sides together, fold each pocket piece in half, and press to form a crease to indicate the top of the pocket. Open the pocket piece to 1 place the RIGHT sides together, and stitch ⁄4" from the raw edges opposite the creased edge. Turn RIGHT side out and press again. 7 Align the pocket top with the line indicated on the side pattern piece. Pin in place, then baste pockets to the RIGHT side of the side panel within the side seam allowances. 8 Edgestitch each pocket bottom to the side panel of the shirt. Pin sparingly, to allow curves to come together in a fl at, smooth seam. 10 Press the seam allowances toward the front 1 panel and topstitch ⁄4" away from the seam. 31 004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3131 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 11 With RIGHT sides together, pin a side panel to a 16 With RIGHT sides together, match the center back panel. Stitch the back panel to the side panel back seam of the outer yoke/sleeve to the center from the top curve to the bottom hem edge being of the back box pleat. Pin in place. careful to gently guide the curved seams together 17 With RIGHT sides together, match the sleeve as you stitch. Finish the seam allowance. Repeat seams to the underarm marking. for the second side. 18 Continue matching and pinning the entire yoke/ 12 Press the seam allowances toward the back panel sleeve to the shirt body. Stitch this seam slowly, 1 and topstitch ⁄4" from the seam. with the yoke/sleeve piece on the bottom and the 13 With RIGHT side of the closure strip facing shirt body on the top so the feed dogs can handle the WRONG side of the shirt front, align the any easing that needs to take place. Take your time, unpressed long edge of a closure strip to a front begin sewing at the center back and toward the front edge of the shirt. Stitch top to bottom. Press the on one side, then begin again at the center back, and seam allowances toward the closure strip. Re-fold stitch in the opposite direction. You can also baste 1 3 the strip at the crease around to the RIGHT side of stitch ⁄2" from the seam and then stitch ⁄8" with a the shirt front. Align the folded/pressed long edge straight stitch, and remove basting stitches when of the strip just over the previous line of stitching, fi nished. (After stitching, check for any “accidental and edgestitch to the shirt. Repeat for the other tucks” along the seam, and correct if necessary.) front side. * begin at # center back ¼" pin sleeve seams here continue around, pinning/stitching to match these points BACK panel FRONT panel SIDE panel 19 With the RIGHT side of the yoke/sleeve lining to the WRONG side (inside) of the shirt body, match and attach the raglan yoke pin through all three layers, as described in Step 18. and sleeves You will be making a fabric sandwich, with the shirt body between the outer yoke/sleeve and 14 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the main the yoke/sleeve lining to enclose the seams. yoke pieces together at center back. Repeat for contrast yoke pieces. Press the seam open. 20 Stitch through all the layers on the previous 15 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the sleeve stitching line, with the yoke lining facing the feed seams for both the yoke/sleeve lining and the dogs on your sewing machine. Take your time, outer yoke/sleeves. (There are four of these beginning at the center back and toward the front seams altogether.) Press the seams open. on one side, then begin again at the center back, and stitch around in the opposite direction. 21 Press the seam toward the yoke. Trim the seam and clip around the curve. 32 004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3232 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 22 Remove the baste stitch at the box pleat. 29 Press the seam allowance toward the under collar 3 23 Press the sleeve edges ⁄8" toward the WRONG and understitch to the under collar. sides to prepare for hemming. (There are four of 30 Fold the collar pieces back with RIGHT sides these.) You can also baste stitch or use double-sided together, and stitch the upper and under collar basting tape to keep in place until hemming. along short edges, pivoting at the angle in the 24 Turn the outer yoke/sleeves and the yoke/sleeve short edge. Trim the seam allowance, clip lining so that the WRONG sides are together. the corners at an angle, and clip in along the 25 Tuck the sleeve linings into the outer sleeves, and curves. edgestitch pressed sleeve hem edges together. 31 Turn the collar with the RIGHT sides out. Smooth Press the sleeve hems and the yoke seams lightly the edge and gently push the collar corners using with steam to fi nish. a point turner and press fl at. 32 Attach the RIGHT side of the under collar to the t RIGHT side of the shirt neckline, aligning the center back and front opening edges with under collar. Pin in place. Leave the pressed upper collar edge free as you stitch the under collar to the shirt neckline. match sleeve seams form and attach the collar 26 Press up the bottom edge of the upper collar 3 piece ⁄8" to the WRONG side. 27 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the under collar pieces together along the center back. 28 With RIGHT sides together, pin the center back seam on the under collar to the center back of the upper collar. Beginning at a short edge, stitch the upper collar and the under collar together along the top raw edge. Because the under collar is cut on the bias, it will stretch slightly to match the length of the upper collar. 33 004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3333 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 33 Press the collar and the neckline seam allowances up. Tuck the seam allowances inside the collar. 34 Baste the upper collar to the shirt, aligning carefully to cover the fi rst seam. We prefer to use double-sided basting tape for this step. 35 Topstitch the collar to the shirt, beginning at one neck opening edge, and fi nishing at the other edge. Remove the baste stitches if used.
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