COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL springtime 1 sprouts

004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 2828 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM the henry shirt 30

“r” is for romper 34

easy linen shirt 37

mr. two face pants 39

004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 2929 55/24/11/24/11 7:317:31 PMPM Contrast Fabric: Side, Yoke/Sleeve, Closure Strip, and Under Collar:

7 • Size 2/3: ⁄8 yd. • Size 4/5: 1 yd.

1 • Size 6/7: 1 ⁄8 yd. Recommended Fabrics: linen/cotton blend, shot cotton, soft old sheets, quilting cotton, baby wale corduroy, shirting. Notions: coordinating thread, 5 snaps or buttons, point turner, fusible lightweight interfacing, double-sided basting tape (optional).

3 All seams are ⁄8" unless otherwise stated.

cut the fabric the henry shirt For this shirt, you’ll need to cut the main and advanced contrasting fabrics using the pattern pieces on page 1:

See photo on p. 5. Front: Cut 2 in main fabric. A twist on a classic, The Henry Shirt features Back: Cut 1 on fold in main fabric. large and sturdy pockets. This is a multi-season Side Panel: Cut 2 in contrast fabric. garment, to be worn over a long-sleeved tee for Yoke/Sleeve: Cut 2 in contrast fabric, and cut 2 spring and autumn days; on its own with jeans, in main fabric. shorts, or pants any time. It can also be worn open over a tank or tee for summer versatility. Under Collar: Cut 2 in contrast fabric. The snap closure makes this shirt easy for him Upper Collar: Cut 1 in main fabric, and cut 1 in to dress himself and is handsome whether open interfacing. or closed. Pocket: Cut 2 in main fabric. Closure Strip: Cut 2 in contrasting fabric and supplies cut 1 in interfacing, then cut interfacing strip in half, lengthwise. Fabric Requirements: Main Fabric: Front, Back, Pockets, Yoke/Sleeve, and Upper Collar: prepare the details

7 • Size 2/3: ⁄8 yd. 1 Fuse lightweight interfacing to one-half of each • Size 4/5: 1 yd. closure strip, lengthwise. 1 2 Press each closure strip in half, lengthwise, • Size 6/7: 1 ⁄8 yd. WRONG sides together.

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04_9780470949559-ch01.indd 30 6/2/11 3:19 PM 3 Open one closure strip and press the long edge 8 1 that is not interfaced ⁄4" toward the WRONG side. Repeat with the other strip. 4 Fuse lightweight interfacing to the upper collar piece. 5 On the back piece, press RIGHT sides together to form the inverted box pleat as indicated on the pattern piece. Pin and baste down 2", press the inverted box pleat fl at and baste across the top raw edge. 5

assemble the shirt body 9 With RIGHT sides together, pin a side panel to pin, baste, and press flat a front panel. Stitch the front panel to the side panel from the top curve to the bottom hem edge, being careful to gently guide the curved seams together as you stitch. Finish the seam allowance. Repeat for the second side. 9

6 With WRONG sides together, fold each pocket piece in half, and press to form a crease to indicate the top of the pocket. Open the pocket piece to 1 place the RIGHT sides together, and stitch ⁄4" from the raw edges opposite the creased edge. Turn RIGHT side out and press again. 7 Align the pocket top with the line indicated on the side pattern piece. Pin in place, then baste pockets to the RIGHT side of the side panel within the side seam allowances. 8 Edgestitch each pocket bottom to the side panel of the shirt. Pin sparingly, to allow curves to come together in a fl at, smooth seam.

10 Press the seam allowances toward the front 1 panel and topstitch ⁄4" away from the seam.

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3131 55/24/11/24/11 7:317:31 PMPM 11 With RIGHT sides together, pin a side panel to a 16 With RIGHT sides together, match the center back panel. Stitch the back panel to the side panel back seam of the outer yoke/sleeve to the center from the top curve to the bottom hem edge being of the back box pleat. Pin in place. careful to gently guide the curved seams together 17 With RIGHT sides together, match the sleeve as you stitch. Finish the seam allowance. Repeat seams to the underarm marking. for the second side. 18 Continue matching and pinning the entire yoke/ 12 Press the seam allowances toward the back panel sleeve to the shirt body. Stitch this seam slowly, 1 and topstitch ⁄4" from the seam. with the yoke/sleeve piece on the bottom and the 13 With RIGHT side of the closure strip facing shirt body on the top so the feed dogs can handle the WRONG side of the shirt front, align the any easing that needs to take place. Take your time, unpressed long edge of a closure strip to a front begin sewing at the center back and toward the front edge of the shirt. Stitch top to bottom. Press the on one side, then begin again at the center back, and seam allowances toward the closure strip. Re-fold stitch in the opposite direction. You can also baste 1 3 the strip at the crease around to the RIGHT side of stitch ⁄2" from the seam and then stitch ⁄8" with a the shirt front. Align the folded/pressed long edge straight stitch, and remove basting stitches when of the strip just over the previous line of stitching, fi nished. (After stitching, check for any “accidental and edgestitch to the shirt. Repeat for the other tucks” along the seam, and correct if necessary.) front side. * begin at # center back ¼" pin sleeve seams here

continue around, pinning/stitching to match these points BACK panel FRONT panel SIDE panel

19 With the RIGHT side of the yoke/sleeve lining to the WRONG side (inside) of the shirt body, match and attach the raglan yoke pin through all three layers, as described in Step 18. and sleeves You will be making a fabric sandwich, with the shirt body between the outer yoke/sleeve and 14 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the main the yoke/sleeve lining to enclose the seams. yoke pieces together at center back. Repeat for contrast yoke pieces. Press the seam open. 20 Stitch through all the layers on the previous 15 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the sleeve stitching line, with the yoke lining facing the feed seams for both the yoke/sleeve lining and the dogs on your sewing machine. Take your time, outer yoke/sleeves. (There are four of these beginning at the center back and toward the front seams altogether.) Press the seams open. on one side, then begin again at the center back, and stitch around in the opposite direction. 21 Press the seam toward the yoke. Trim the seam and clip around the curve. 32

004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3232 55/24/11/24/11 7:317:31 PMPM 22 Remove the baste stitch at the box pleat. 29 Press the seam allowance toward the under collar 3 23 Press the sleeve edges ⁄8" toward the WRONG and understitch to the under collar. sides to prepare for hemming. (There are four of 30 Fold the collar pieces back with RIGHT sides these.) You can also baste stitch or use double-sided together, and stitch the upper and under collar basting tape to keep in place until hemming. along short edges, pivoting at the angle in the 24 Turn the outer yoke/sleeves and the yoke/sleeve short edge. Trim the seam allowance, clip lining so that the WRONG sides are together. the corners at an angle, and clip in along the 25 Tuck the sleeve linings into the outer sleeves, and curves. edgestitch pressed sleeve hem edges together. 31 Turn the collar with the RIGHT sides out. Smooth Press the sleeve hems and the yoke seams lightly the edge and gently push the collar corners using with steam to fi nish. a point turner and press fl at. 32 Attach the RIGHT side of the under collar to the t RIGHT side of the shirt neckline, aligning the center back and front opening edges with under collar. Pin in place. Leave the pressed upper collar edge free as you stitch the under collar to the shirt neckline.

match sleeve seams

form and attach the collar 26 Press up the bottom edge of the upper collar 3 piece ⁄8" to the WRONG side. 27 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the under collar pieces together along the center back. 28 With RIGHT sides together, pin the center back seam on the under collar to the center back of the upper collar. Beginning at a short edge, stitch the upper collar and the under collar together along the top raw edge. Because the under collar is cut on the bias, it will stretch slightly to match the length of the upper collar.

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3333 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 33 Press the collar and the neckline seam allowances up. Tuck the seam allowances inside the collar. 34 Baste the upper collar to the shirt, aligning carefully to cover the fi rst seam. We prefer to use double-sided basting tape for this step. 35 Topstitch the collar to the shirt, beginning at one neck opening edge, and fi nishing at the other edge. Remove the baste stitches if used.

fi nish the shirt

1 36 Turn under the shirt bottom edge ⁄2" and press. Turn 1 under again ⁄2" and press. Topstitch in place. 37 Mark snap placement on fi nished closure strip, beginning at the collar. The second snap should be 1" down from the collar snap, and then space 1 the remaining snaps 2 ⁄2" apart down the front closure strip.

We couldn’t leave the little ones out, so we have designed a raw-edged romper for the diaper-clad set. We use smooth seams for sensitive baby skin. Diaper changes are a snap, too!

supplies

Fabric Requirements:

1 • Size 0–6 months: ⁄2 yd.

1 • Size 6–12 months: ⁄2 yd.

2 • Size 12–18 months: ⁄3 yd. Recommended Fabrics: medium-weight knit fabrics with at least 30% stretch such as cotton jersey, “r” is for romper bamboo rayon, rib cotton knit, or French terry. Notions: coordinating thread, universal stretch intermediate needle, lightweight fusible interfacing (knit See photo on p. 6. interfacing, if available), 8 sets of poly-resin snaps, double-sided water-soluble tape (optional).

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3434 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 3 attach the sleeves All seams are ⁄8" unless otherwise stated. Remember the raw edges of the seams are on the 2 With WRONG sides together, pin the back side outside of the garment. Important: Set your machine of one sleeve to the romper back. Pin so the raw to stitch a zigzag that is 2.5–3.0 long and 1.0–1.5 edges match, and stitch together. wide. It should look like this: 3 Press the seam’s raw edges toward the back 1 panel and topstitch ⁄4" from seam. 4 Repeat with the other sleeve.

The slight zigzag appears to be straight, but provides a lot in the way of stretch. attach the top binding and bottom snap tabs cut the fabric 5 With WRONG sides together, press the snap tabs in half, lengthwise. For the romper, you’ll need to cut the fabric using 6 Align the raw edges of the bottom snap tabs the pattern pieces on page 3: to the WRONG side of the inseam area on the bottom of each body piece. Front: Cut 1 on fold. 7 Stitch and press the seam allowances down Back: Cut 1 on fold. toward the RIGHT side of the romper. Topstitch Sleeve: Cut 2. in place very close to the raw edges. Front Neck Binding: Cut 1. 8 With WRONG sides together, press the neck Back Neck Binding: Cut 1. bindings in half, lengthwise. Snap Tabs: Cut 2. 9 Align the raw edges of the front neck binding to the WRONG side of the neckline on the front body piece. prepare the details 10 Stitch and press the seam allowances down 1 Press the fusible interfacing as indicated on the toward the RIGHT side of the neckline. Topstitch pattern pieces. in place very close to the raw edges. 11 Fold and press the binding and interfaced sleeve 1 1 extension ⁄2" to the WRONG side of the front body piece. This will form a snap placket. Baste in place.

folded binding edges ! stitch a square at each binding edge to secure

raw edges

Reinforcing the plackets will hold the snaps in place later.

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3535 55/24/11/24/11 7:317:31 PMPM 12 Repeat for the back body piece and sleeves 17 Continue sewing until you reach the sleeve edge. (attached together) to attach the back neck 18 Repeat on the opposite side. binding and create a matching snap placket on the front sleeve/binding. Note: Since this is a raw-edged raglan, you have no 13 Overlap the back placket over the front placket on hems! each side and baste (with pins, tape, or stitching). Basting here will simplify the following steps. 19 Topstitch the placket down from the underarm seam to the stop mark on the pattern (about an inch). This will keep the placket from gaping as stitch the side seams your little guy moves around.

14 With the WRONG sides together, line up the side ( seams at the underarm and pin from the sleeve edge to the hemline. (Remember: the raw edges will be on the outside of the garment.) 15 Stitch the side seam from the sleeve edge to the hemline. Take it slowly when stitching over the fi ve layers at the placket/underarm/side seam juncture. 16 Beginning at the hemline, hold the seam allowances toward the back of the shirt and

topstitch near the raw edge of the seam. When This keeps the snap placket from gaping. you reach the sleeve underarm, you will be sewing into what looks like a “tunnel”. fi nish with snaps ^ side seam 20 Attach two sets of snaps as indicated on the pattern pieces to the snap plackets at the neckline. The back placket should snap down over the front. 21 Attach four sets of snaps, spacing them evenly RIGHT side from one leg to the other along the snap tab at of romper the bottom.

(romper turned inside out)

stitch through to sleeve edge

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3636 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM cut the fabric For this shirt, you’ll need to cut the fabric using the pattern pieces on page 2:

Front: Cut 2. Back: Cut 1 on fold. Sleeve: Cut 2 on fold. Collar: Cut 2 on fold.

assemble the shirt body 1 With RIGHT sides together, sew the front to the back at the shoulder seams. Finish the seam allowances. 2 Press the seam toward the back of the shirt and 1 topstitch the seam allowances ⁄4" from the seam. easy linen shirt 3 With RIGHT sides together, match the center mark beginner on the sleeve to the shoulder seam. Pin in place and stitch. Finish the seam allowances. See photo on p. 7. 4 Press the seam toward the shirt and topstitch the Since when is making a shirt easy? Since now! 1 seam allowances ⁄4" from the seam. Use your favorite contrasting fabric as the collar facing for a super-stylish “pop” of color, without any extra effort. 4

supplies Shirt Fabric Requirements: BACK 7 • Size 2/3: ⁄8 yd.

1 • Size 4/5: 1 ⁄4 yd.

1 • Size 6/7: 1 ⁄3 yd. Optional: contrast scrap for inner collar. Sleeve Recommended Fabrics: linen, shot cotton, batiste, soft old sheet, quilting cotton, shirting, lightweight fl annel. Notions: coordinating thread, point turner, double- sided basting tape (optional). Shirt FRONT

3 All seams are ⁄8" unless otherwise stated.

Press the seam toward the shirt and topstitch.

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3737 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM 5 With RIGHT sides together, align the raw edges 5 of the front shirt pieces. Stitch using a ⁄8" seam allowance, beginning at the shirt bottom and ending at the stop mark (as marked on the pattern piece). Backstitch to secure at the stop mark. 6 Press the seam open all the way to the shirt neckline. Fold the seam allowances in half, to the 1 WRONG side, lengthwise. Topstitch ⁄4" from the folded edge on each side of the seam, beginning at the bottom hem and fi nishing at the shirt neckline.

6 10 Press the seam allowance toward the inner collar and understitch to the inner collar. Clip the seam allowance at the curve. 11 Fold the collar pieces at the original seam with RIGHT sides together and stitch the outer and inner collars along the short edges. Trim the seam. The folded edge makes attaching the collar so much easier.

0 inner collar outer collar pressed edge ! outer collar Stitch along both sides. pressed edge 7 With RIGHT sides together, align the underarm inner collar 5 seams and stitch a ⁄8" seam allowance from the wrist hem to the bottom hem. Finish the seam allowances. We prefer to use a French seam for this 12 Turn the collar RIGHT sides out. Smooth the edge shirt. See the Appendix for step-by-step instructions. using a point turner and press fl at. 13 Attach the RIGHT side of the inner collar to the WRONG side of the shirt neckline, aligning the center attach the collar back and front opening edges. Leave the pressed- 8 Press up the bottom edge of the outer collar up outer collar edge free as you stitch the extended 1 piece ⁄4" to the WRONG side. inner collar edge to the shirt neckline. 9 With RIGHT sides together and beginning at a short edge, stitch the outer collar and the inner collar together along the top edge. 9 outer collar pressed edge inner collar

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3838 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM # attach inner collar %

leave folded outer collar free

Topstitch all the way around the collar.

14 Press the collar and the neckline seam allowances up. Tuck the seam allowance inside the collar. fi nish the shirt

3 15 Align the folded edge of the outer collar along the 16 Turn under the sleeve edges ⁄8" to the WRONG stitching at the neckline. Baste in place using pins side and press. Turn under again 1" and press. or double-sided basting tape. Topstitch the collar Edgestitch in place along the fi rst fold. to the shirt, beginning at one neck opening edge, 1 17 Turn under the shirt bottom edge ⁄2" to the and fi nishing at the other edge. 1 WRONG side and press. Turn under again ⁄2" and press. Topstitch in place.

supplies Fabric Requirements:

1 • Size 3–6 months: main fabric and contrast ⁄2 yd.

2 • Size 6–12 months: main fabric and contrast ⁄3 yd. • Size 12–18 months: main fabric and 2 contrast ⁄3 yd. Recommended Fabrics: medium-weight knit fabrics with at least 30% stretch such as cotton jersey, bamboo rayon, rib knit, quilter’s cotton, double gauze, or linen. Notions: coordinating thread, universal needle 70/10, universal ballpoint needle or stretch needle mr. two face pants depending on the fabric of your choice, 1" wide elastic, decorative button (optional), double-sided beginner water-soluble basting tape (optional). See photo on p. 8.

One day he’s your sweet little innocent boy and 5 All seam allowances are ⁄8" unless otherwise stated. the next day you think, “Where did this child come If you use a knit fabric, set your machine to a zigzag from?” Whatever his mood, these pants will still stitch that is 3.0 long and .5–1.0 wide. be a signature piece in your child’s wardrobe. 39

004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 3939 55/24/11/24/11 77:31:31 PMPM cut the fabric 2 For these pants, you’ll need to cut the fabric using fold end and the pattern pieces on page 3: topstitch down

Legs: Cut 1 in main fabric and cut 1 in contrasting fabric. Lay main and contrast fabrics RIGHT sides together and cut. Pocket: Cut 1 in main fabric and cut 1 in contrasting fabric (optional).

Tip: For a two-color contrast pocket, use a lightweight double-sided fusible web to bond two fabrics with WRONG sides together before cutting your pocket.

prepare the pocket 3 Place double-sided water-soluble basting tape on the WRONG side of the pocket edges and fuse 1 Fold the top of the pocket (fl ap) down—with the pocket onto the pants where indicated on the RIGHT sides facing—where indicated on the pattern, following the fusible product instructions. If pattern piece, and press fl at. you are not using a fusible product, pin the pocket 2 Topstitch the pocket fl ap to the pocket. Choose a in place. Topstitch around the “U” of the pocket, button from your stash, and sew it onto the pocket and backstitch at the beginning and the end of your to use as a faux button (optional). stitch to reinforce.

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004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 4040 55/24/11/24/11 77:32:32 PMPM 3 5 Turn one leg RIGHT side out and place it inside the other so their RIGHT sides are facing. Align the center seam, pin, and stitch. Reinforce this 1 center seam by stitching another line ⁄8” from the fi rst. For woven fabric only: Finish the seam allowance. 6 For knit fabric: Keep the pants inside out, turn 1 the waist edge 1 ⁄2" and press fl at. Create a casing 1 by stitching ⁄8" from the raw edge. Leave a 1" opening. Stitch another row around the 1 waistband ⁄4" away from the previous line of stitching, again leaving a 1" opening. For woven fabric: Keep the pants inside out, turn 1 1 the hem ⁄4" and press fl at. Turn another 1 ⁄4" and 1 press fl at. Create a casing by edge stitching ⁄8" from the turned edge. Leave a 1" opening. Stitch 1 another row around the waistband ⁄4" away from the previous line of stitching, again leaving a 1" opening.

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leave open to install elastic

Use tape and topstitch the “U”.

sew the pants 7 Cut the amount needed from the 1" elastic. 4 With RIGHT sides together, stitch the inner leg 3–6 months: 17"; 6–12 months: 17.5"; 12–18 1 seam of one leg. Repeat to form the other pant months: 18 ⁄2". leg. Finish the seam allowance. (There is no need 8 Using a safety pin or bodkin, feed the elastic to “fi nish” the seam allowance when sewing through the casing. Double check to make sure with knit fabric, but you can topstitch the seam the elastic is not twisted in the casing. Overlap allowance down if you have an extra-sensitive kid.) the ends of the elastic about 1" and stitch the ends together using a zigzag or serpentine stitch. 4 9 Stitch the opening closed for both rows. 10 For knit fabric: No hemming necessary! 1 For woven fabric: Turn the bottom hem ⁄4", and 1 press fl at. Turn another ⁄4", press fl at, and stitch.

Press both seam allowances to one side and edgestitch down. 41

004_9780470949559-ch01.indd4_9780470949559-ch01.indd 4141 55/24/11/24/11 7:327:32 PMPM