TV430 Corrected Instructions
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Taking Your Measurements \ I / \ I / ' ------/ / ' ,,,__
• 1mp s __ ...,... ___ _. _____ ___ ,,. -, Bulletin 498 / January 1956 / ' : TAKING YOUR MEASUREMENTS \ I / \ I / ' ------ / / ' ,,,__..... --- ------- ./ _,."' / / --- --- 1 -------------- \ \ ' A good looking dress is a well-fitted dress. Achieving a good fit depends upon three things: knowing your own figure measurements, selecting the size and type pattern which most nearly corres ponds to your measurements, and then making any necessary alterations in the pattern before cutting your dress. This leaflet tells you how to take your measurements and provides a place for you to record them. What Is A Well-fitted Dress? A dress that fits you well adapts itself to your body. Ir brings out your good points and skillfully hides your poor ones. You will know a good fit by- Direction of grain of fabric. - Crosswise yarns are parallel to the floor at the center-front and back busdine, and at the hipline, unless the dress has unusual style details. lengthwise yarns are at right angles to the floor at the center-front and back of both skirt and bodice of a dress. lengthwise yarns on the sleeve cap lie in the direction of the arm when it hangs straight at the side . This varies slightly on different figures but in general the crosswise yarns are also parallel are straight in front and back of your arm except to the floor. when special style features, such as extended shoul Direction of seam lines. - Seam lines that ders, requir.e otherwise. lie and hang straight keep your dress in proper li~e The waistline seam appears to be straight around on your figure. -
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”)
Sewing Technique: Lock Stitch (Hem 1”) The lock stitch is a hand stitch used for hemming purposes. It gives a secure hold with limited view of the thread on the outer side of the garment. STEP 1: Stay stitch ¼-inch from the fabric edge. (A stay stitch is a single line that is used for guidance and to keep the fabric from fraying. It is a normal stitch length and backstitching is a personal preference.) STEP 2: Fold the hem edge back 1-inch. Press fold in order to make a crease in the fabric. Press fabric 1 again ¼-inch. This press will follow the stay stitch seam. STEP 3: Secure thread to the folded edge of fabric on stay stitch line in order to hide the knot. STEP 4: Moving left, make a small stitch (1/2 to ¾ inch). The stitch should first go through the ¼-inch fold; then a small stitch is made that only goes through the outside layer of the garment. Pull thread gently back through to the inside of the garment. Avoid pulling the thread tight as the needle passes back through the loop created from the stitch. 5 3 5 STEP 6: To tighten lock stitch, pull thread to the left. STEP 7: Continue moving left and repeating step 5 until seam is complete. STEP 8: Once finished, secure thread to prevent it from unraveling. NOTE: The lock stitch can be used in place of a catch stitch. 7 6 Industry Standards for a Well-Constructed Hem: • Hem is level • Hem lies flat • No puckers, twists, or extra bulk • Hand stitching is not visible on correct side of garment • Hand stitches are evenly spaced • Topstitching is even and parallel to hemline References: Readers Digest. -
Tailoring Series TECHNIQUES for TAILORING UNDERLINING a TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining Is a Second Layer of Fabric. It Is Cut By
tailoring series TECHNIQUES FOR TAILORING UNDERLINING A TAILORED GARMENT—Underlining is a second layer of fabric. It is cut by the garment pattern pieces and staystitched to the wrong side of the corresponding outer sections before any seams are joined. The two layers are then handled as one. As a general guide, most suit jackets and coats look more pro- fessional when underlined. Underlining is especially recommended for lightweight wool materials, loosely woven materials and light- colored materials. For additional information on selecting fabrics for underlining and applying the underlining, see Lining a Shirt 01' Dress HE 72, N. C. Agricultural Extension Service. STAYSTITCHING—Staystitch all outer garment pieces before construction begins. If garment is underlined, stays-titching is done when the two layers of fabric are sewn together. Staystitch 1/3 in. outside seamline (on the seam allowance). Stay- stitch “ with matching cotton thread on all curved *areas that may stretch during construction such as necklines, side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and side seams of skirt. Use directional stitching always to prevent stretching of fabric and to prevent one layer of fabric from riding. The direction to stitch is indicated by small arrows on the pattern on the seamlines. INTERFACINGS—Select a high quality hair canvas for the front and collar of coats and jackets. The percentage of wool indicates the quality—the higher the wool content of the canvas the better the quality. Since a high percentage of wool makes the hair canvas fairly dark in color, it cannot be used successfully under light-colored fabrics. In these cases use an interfacing lighter in color and lower in wool content. -
Placket Construction Options
Placket Construction Options 1 Type1: Two Separate Bound Edges on a rectangular stitching box The key to this structure is that the bindings are initially stitched only to the seam allowances on each side, and NOT stitched across the end, of the clipped box, which means that they, and the clipped triangle at the bottom, remain loose and can be arranged before the nal nishing to go on either side of the fabric, as well as either over or under the other, after joining them at the sides. The widths and lengths of the bindings and the space between the sides of the clipped box determine all the other options available in this most exible of all the placket types I know of. Variation 1: Both bindings t inside the stitching box If you cut the bindings so the nished, folded widths of both are equal to or smaller than the space between the initial stitching lines, as shown above, you can arrange both ends at the clipped corners to all go on one side of the fabric (right or wrong side), along with the clipped triangle on the garment. You’ll get the best results if the underlapping binding is slightly smaller than the overlapping one. This can be man- aged by taking slightly deeper seam allowances when you join this piece, so they can initially be cut from the same strip. Or, you can place one end on each side with the Both ends on RS One end on RS, Both ends on WS triangle sandwiched in between. -
'L::C Make a Gathered Skirt
H7l.f -·'1~ 'l::c Make A Gathered Skirt CIRCULAR 580 OCTOBER 1964 AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA Make a Gathered Skirt Prepared by MarrJaret Groseclose, Err:tension ClothinrJ Specialist •Many girls like gathered skirts and they Make a Placket • are easy to make. Plump girls look best in 1. Work with the side seam where the gored skirts. When you make a gathered opening was left for the placket. skirt, you learn to make seams, put in a 2. Fold back the front placket extension placket, fit a waistband, hem a skirt, and put to the seam line. Press and pin. on a fastener. You study what to look for in 3. Machine stitch the length of the placket choosing a fabric and how to prepare it for opening 5/ 8" from the folded edge. Stitch cutting a garment. This will help you in diagonally to the folded edge (or seam line), making other garments. catching the back extension. 4. Clip the back seam allowance almost Supplies You Will Need to the stitching line, approximately 1/2" be- low the end of the placket. Include a sewing box, thread to match 5. Press the side seams open. background of fabric, hooks and straight eyes, 6. Two snap fasteners may be used to i:maps, and fabric. The amount of fabric keep the placket closed. needed will be twice the length of your skirt, including 3" for hem plus 5" for waistband. Figure 2 Measure and Cut 1. Straighten the fabric. 2. If you are using 2 lengths for the skirt, cut a 5-1/8" strip across the fabric for the band. -
Key Details We Look for at Inspection
Key Details We Look for at Inspection Please not that these lists are not all inclusive but highlight areas that most often cause difficulty. Additional details are included on spec sheets for individual costumes. Boys’ Costumes Achterhoek: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Do you have the correct hat? This is the high one. Volendam is shorter. 3. The collar extends to the edge of the shirt and can be comfortably buttoned at the neck. 4. Ring on scarf and is visible above vest. If necessary use a gold safety pin to hold the ring in place. 5. Is the scarf on the inside of the vest, front and back? 6. Shirt buttons are in the center of the front band 7. The vest closes left over right. 8. The chain is in the 2nd buttonhole from the bottom 9. Welt pockets are made correctly and in the correct position. 10. Pants clear shoes. 11. Pants have a 6” hem Marken: 1.Overall appearance of costume 2.Red shirt underneath jacket 3.Red stitching on jacket placket 4.Closes as a boy (L. over R.) 5.Pants at mid-calf when pulled straight 6.Pants down 1” from waist Nord Holland Sunday: 1. Overall appearance of costume 2. Correct hat and scarf 3. Neck - can fit 1 finger 4. 2 dickies (one solid and one striped) 5. Jacket - collar flaps lay smooth 6. Buttonholes are horizontal 7. Jacket closes as a boy (left over right) 8. Cord, hook and eye at back of pants 9. Pants clear shoes 10.6 inch hem Noord Holland Work: 1. -
Measurement Chart
Measurement Chart NAME: ___________________________________ DATE: __________________ 1. High bust circumference: 2. Full bust circumference: 2a. Distance between bust points: 3. Distance from shoulder/neck point to bust point: 4. Waist circumference: 5. High Hip circumference: 5a. Distance from waist: 6. Full hip circumference: 6a. Distance from waist: 7. Stride (crotch length) plus 1" to 2": 8. Length from waist to floor minus 1": 9. Shoulder length: 10. Upper arm circumference: 11. Sleeve length: 12. Back width: 13. Back length to waist: © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Bust Ease Blouse, Dress 2½" to 3" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3½" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5" Fitting the Bust: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting the Back: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Back Ease Blouse, Dress ½" to 1" Jacket 1" Coat 1" to 2" Fitting the Back: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart Garment Minimum Upper Arm Ease Blouse 1" to 1½" Dress 1½" to 2" Unlined jacket 3" to 4" Lined jacket 3" to 4½" Coat 4" to 5½" Fitting Sleeves: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop Fitting Pants: Ease Chart Minimum Pants Ease Waist 1" to 2" Hip 2" - Fitted Pants 4" - Elastic Waist Pants Crotch Length 1" - If hips are less than 37" 1½" - If hips are 37"-40" 2" - If hips are 40" or more Fitting Pants: Ease Chart © The Sewing Workshop How to Measure For Successful Fitting by Linda Lee Tips! Tips! Tips! Gather Your Tools Know Your Notions Two very specific tools are recommended: Elastic - Use 1”-wide Stretchrite woven polyester flat non-roll elastic. -
Dressmaking up to Date
PRICE, 25 CENTS or Is. PUBLISHED BY THE BUTTERICK PUBLISHING COMPANY, Limited AT THE BUTTERICK BUILDING, NEW YORK PARIS LONDON NEW YORK TORONTO Copyright, /QOj, by The Butter ick Publishing Co., Limited. Entered at Stationers’ Hall. A ll rights reserved. ■r o: ; < A Dressmaking, TUp to Date h.-K'ARV,^ rorS^BiS1 f'flsi $cp»es jits,wiYW( { . > i SfcP Hi ; « Ooiwngns umt J-^/ o2 &. I c/C61 / a 1X733! COPY f;s> . 3 FRONTISPIECE —THE SEWING CIRCLE HAND-SEWING STITCHES IMPORTANT POINTS AND AIDS IN DRESSMAKING THE CORRECT METHOD OF ALTERING PATTERNS SHIRT-BLOUSES DRAPED WAISTS SKIRTS NOVEL, ARTISTIC SEAMS WEDDING AND EVENING GOWNS THE TAILOR-MADE GOWN COATS AND JACKETS PRACTICAL AND ORNAMENTAL STITCHES BIAS BANDS AND FOLDS—TURNING CORNERS AN EMPIRE TEA-GOWN DESIRABLE GARMENTS FOR MATERNITY WEAR MAKING /ND FINISHING UNDERWEAR THE BATH-ROBE. CHILDREN’S CLOTHES BOYS’ SUITS XTlp to 5>ate inning (EirrU SDressmahtrtg, TUp to Date SIMPLE SEWING STITCE1ES AKING A KNOT.—Holding the threaded needle in the right hand, twist the end of the thread once and a half, around the forefinger of the left hand; press, roll downward on the ball of the thumb, twisting once or twice; slip off and draw down M with the middle finger of the left hand. BASTING.—There are two kinds of basting; even and uneven. In even basting the stitches; and spaces are the same length; in uneven basting, as its name implies, the stitches are so formed that they are not of equal length. EVEN BASTING STITCH.—Start with a knot in basting and always have it on the right side; it is more easily removed. -
A Manual for Home Sewing
Extension Bulletin 468 December 1933 Home Economics Series A Manual for Home Sewing 41, THIS BULLETIN IS PREPARED TO SERVE THREE GROUPS OF OREGON HOME- MAKERS THOSE WHO HAVE LITTLE EX- PERIENCE IN HOME SEWING AND WHO FIND IT ECONOMICAL TO MAKE MUCH OF THE FAMILY'S CLOTHING. THE MORE EXPERIENCED WHO DESIRE A READY REF- ERENCE ON HOME SEWING. THOSE FAM- ILIES WHO AT THIS TIME ARE UNDER THE NECESSITY OF RECEIVING CLOTH- ING FROM THEIR FEDERAL AND STATE GOVERNMENT. 41, IT IS HOPED THAT THE DIRECTIONS MAY BE FOUND HELP- FUL IN THE PROGRAM OF SELF-HELP AND HOME-MADE LIVING IN WHICH A LARGE PROPORTION OF THESE CITIZENS DESIRE TO PARTICIPATE. Oregon State Agricultural College Extension Service Corvallis, Oregon Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics Paul V. Maria, Director Oregon State Agricultural College and United States Department of Agriculture, Cooperating Printed and distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June dO, 1914 TABLE OP CONTENTS Page Sewing Equipment and Technique 3 Sewing Machine 3 Other Equipment 4 Pressing Equipment 6 Seams and Seam Finishes 7 Plain Seams and Finishes 7 Special Seams 8 Hems and Hemstitches 10 Stitches Used in Hems 10 Hems and Hem Finishes 11 Mitered Corners 14 Fabric Buttonholes 15 Pockets 18 Plackets 22 Bindings, Pipings, and Folds 24 Preparation of Bias 25 Bindings 25 Pipings 26 French Fold 26 Plaits 27 Fastenings 27 Garment Repair 29 Darning 29 Patching 30 Index 32 A Manual for Home Sewing By AZALEA SAGER Extension Specialist in Clothing and Textiles and satisfaction are the two chief reasons for making or ECONOMYremodeling garments at home. -
Instructions and Free Patterns
Instructions and free patterns www.mybernette.com “Romantic style” project sewing instructions Frilly blouse Sizes 3434––––4242 European (4(4(4-(4 ---1212 US/6US/6----1414 UK) You'll need - 1.2m (1 3/8 yd) pink taffeta (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.45m (½ yd) white tulle (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 0.50 m (1/2 yd) pink voile (fabric width 1.5m (5')) - 1.5m (1 2/3 yd) satin ribbon, approx. 4mm (1/6") wide - Assorted sewing and embroidery threads in pink - Embroidery stabilizer for the facing - Spray adhesive - Sewing thread to match the color of the fabric - Gathering foot - Cording foot Fabric rerecommendationcommendation Taffeta or other shiny, slightly crisp fabric for the blouse. Sheer fabrics that can be gathered with the gathering foot for the frills. Good to know The decorative stitches will cause the fabric to shrink slightly, so be sure to add 2.5cm (1") seam allowance to the outer facing when cutting it out. After embellishing the facing with decorative stitching, reposition the paper pattern on the stitched fabric and trim the seam allowance to 1.5cm (5/8"). Cutting out Seam allowanceallowancess ––– When cutting out, add 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance to all edges and the hem, and 1cm (3/8") to armhole curves. Pink taffeta 2 x front 1 x back to fabric fold 2 x facing 2 x belt loops: 1.5cm x 8cm (5/8" x 3 ¼"), including seam allowance 1 x belt: 8cm x 66cm (3 ¼" x 26"), including seam allowance 2 x bias binding for armhole, cut on cross-grain: 4cm x 47cm (1 5/8" x 18 1/2") Sheer voile, taffetataffeta,,,, or tulle Tear or cut (depending on the fabric's texture) 2cm- (7/8"-) wide strips for the frill on the facing. -
Download Printable Instructions
Fun and Simple Passport Wallet If you’re a traveler on the go, you simply must make this fun passport wallet! Never lose this important document in your purse again when it’s in a bright and colorful protector. Make this easy project on your new Baby Lock Accomplish! Skill Level: Beginner Created by: Diane Kron, Sewing Project Manager Supplies: Baby Lock® Accomplish sewing machine 1 Fat quarter for main fabric 1 Fat quarter of contrast fabric for lining 8 ¾” x 7” of buckram used for stability 8 ¾” x 7” of clear 12-gauge clear vinyl 48” of ½” wide bias binding Madeira® Cotona thread for sewing 1 Large decorative button Frixion marking pens Baby Lock Project: Passport Wallet Page 1 of 3 ¼” Quilting Foot Basic sewing supplies Instructions: 1) Set up the machine for sewing. The thread used should coordinate with the fabrics. 2) Draw a line across the center of the buckram using the frixion pen. 3) Place the main fabric and the contrasting fabric on top of each other. Pin the buckram to the top and cut out both fabrics ½” larger all the way around than the buckram. 4) Place the buckram on the wrong side of the lining fabric. Pin in place. Stitch the two together on the drawn center line on the buckram. Stitch all the way around the outer edges of the buckram. Trim off excess fabric by cutting very close to the stitched line. Be careful not to cut into the stitched line. 5) With wrong sides of the fabric facing each other, place the lining section on top of the main fabric. -
Standards of Quality for Custom Clothing
STANDARDS OF QUALITY Copyright © 2008 by the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted in any form without permission in writing from the Association of Sewing and Design Professionals, Inc. Table of Contents TABLE OF CONTENTS............................................................................................................................ II ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS .........................................................................................................................V THE STANDARDS AND PRACTICES COMMITTEE ........................................................................ VI INTRODUCTION........................................................................................................................................ 1 SECTION I: .................................................................................................................................................. 3 QUALITY STANDARDS IN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION................................................................ 3 SEAMS...................................................................................................................................................... 3 SEAM FINISHES...................................................................................................................................... 3 DARTS.....................................................................................................................................................