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P E R Z I a 2 0 PP EE RR ZZ II AA 22 00 11 77 Tím: Maroš, Miška, Peťa, Anton Dátum: 22.4 – 2.5. 2017 1.deň (23.apríl-nedela) – nočný prílet do 9 miliónového Teheránu na úpatí pohoria Alborz. Po vybavení vstupných formalít (cca do 3:00 hod.) nás čaká na letisku odvoz do dedinky Abyaneh (Alianz Arena príde okolo 5.30 hod., platíme 90usd). Čaká nás asi 3,5 hodinový presun do jednej z najstarších dedín v Iráne – Abyaneh, neďaleko Kashanu s unikátnou kulturou, jazykom, odevom a architekturou. Tu sa poprechádzame uličkami medzi typickými červenými domami. Odtiaľto nás vodič odvezie do starovekého mesta na okraji púšte do Kashanu. Kashan ponúka celkový prierez perzskou architektúrou a bude to naozaj zaujímavý prvý den. Navštívime obchodné domy bohatých perzských kupcov (Tabatabaei House, Ameri House, and Abbasi House), miestny krytý bazár, kúpele, ktoré dnes už slúžia ako muzeum, záhradu Fin a krásnu mešitu Agha Bozorg. AK ostane čas, vezmeme taxík do mesta Aran o Bidgol, kde sa nachádza krásny komplex Shrine of Imamzadeh Hilal Ibn Ali. V poobedných hodinách (17-18) nasadneme na bus a vydáme sa na cestu do Esfahánu (2,5 hod., 13 000 tomanov, posledný ide okolo 23 hod, dovtedy každú pol hodinu). Večerná prechádzka po bývalom hlavnom meste a vychutnávanie atmosféry najväčšieho námestia v Iráne a druhého najväčšieho na svete – Naqsh-e contact person: Nassim Zand ,حو ضک ب وم گردی خان ه ,Jahan. Ubytujeme sa a konečne sa snáď vyspíme (Howzak House Dizari, Masjed-Jam st,Isfahan, Iran, Tel: +9831-3446-4491 | Whats-app: +98937-9652371) 2.den (24.apríl-pondelok) – Esfahán (UNESCO) – Veci by sme si mohli nechať na ubytku a večer ich vyzdvihnúť. Mesto bolo v 17. storočí považované za najkrajšie mesto sveta a aj dnes má čo svojím návštevníkom ponúknuť. Celý den sa budeme túlat po jeho uliciach, námestiach a bazároch. Budeme popíjat čaj s miestnymi a možno nás aj niekto pozve aby sme sa pripojili k pikniku, ako je to u nich zvykom. V arménskej štvrti Džolfa navštívíme nádhernú krestanskú katedrálu Vank (30 000 RIAL, 8-12 & 14-18) a dáme si miestnu kávu. Počas prechádzok po meste nevynecháme krásne stredoveké mosty ponad rieku Zayandeh (Si-o-seh pol a Khaju bridge), krásny palác Chehel Sotoun, palác Ali Qapu, mešitu Sheikh Loftolah, mešitu Shah a Jameh, Chahar Bagh school, Qaisarieh bazaar. Možno si pozrieme aj trasúce sa minarety Monar Jonban hned za mestom. Večer si znovu užijeme atmosféru obrovského námestia Naqsh-e Jahan (najlepšie v letnej záhrade hotela ABBASI) a nastúpime na nočný vlak/bus (23:30 and 23:55) smer Shiraz. Pozn.: Mohli by sme hneď kúpiť lístky na nočný vlak na cestu do Teheránu. 3.den (25.apríl-utorok) – Shiraz – mesto básnikov, záhrad a slávikov. Hneď ráno navštívime úžasne farebnú mešitu Nasir al Molk, ktorá je pri východe slnka, vdaka farebným mozaikám v oknách najkrajšia. Vizuálny zážitok budeme mat aj pri svatyni Shah Cheragh. Pri hrobke slávneho perzského básnika Haféza si necháme vyveštit buducnost od andulky na základe jeho básní. Pozrieme si pevnost v centre mesta Karim Khan a prekrásnu záhradu Eram. Naobedujeme sa a vyrazíme do niekdajšieho srdca celej Perzie do viac ako 2500 rokov starého Persepolisu (UNESCO). Dal ho postavit král Dareios, slúžil jako miesto obradov a slávností. Približne po 200 rokoch ho dobyl a zničil slávny Alexander Velký. Pozrieme si královské paláce, bránu národov a nádherné reliéfy na schodisku Apadany. Následne sa presunieme do nedalekého Naqsh-e Rostam s krásnymi hrobkami achajmenovských králov vytesanými v skalách. Po tomto zážitku sa presunieme naspat do Shirazu a počkáme si na nočný bus (buses 17:00, 17:30, 21:00 and 23:00) do púštneho Yazdu. 4.den (26.apríl-streda) – Yazd –ráno si dáme raňajky v jednom z najstarších a stále obývaných miest sveta. Mesto však preskúmame neskôr. Najprv sa vyberieme preskúmať okolie. Spolu s chalaniskom (Behnam) si urobíme poldenný výlet do Meybodu. Pozrieme si Narin castle nad mestom a tiež nezabudneme na Holubiu vežu, ktorá je zaujímavá hlavne zvnútra. Slúžila na zber holubích výlučkov, ktorými potom starý peržania hnojili polia. Taktiež si pozrieme zachovalú Saryazd fortress a večer zakončíme v Zaman Zurkaneh – v tělocvični, kde zažijeme 3000 rokov starý perzský šport. Večer sa môžeme poprechádzať ešte po meste, vychutnať si vysvietené hlinené budovy a presunieme sa do hostela kde sa zasa konečne trocha vyspíme (Badgir hostel, No3, Rajaei street, +98 35 3627 6769, 45USD dokopy za izbu pre štyroch). 5. deň (27. Apríl, štvrtok) Hneď ráno sa vyberieme preskúmať mesto Yazd. Budeme sa prechádzať uličkami pomedzi hlinené domčeky a strácat sa v jeho labyrintoch. Skúsime sa dostať na niektorú zo striech a vidieť desiatky stredovekých klimatizácií, ktoré Yazd preslávili a inšpiroval sa nimi celý Blízky východ. V centre nás zaujme komplex Amir Chakhmaq a na severnom cípe námestia navštívíme Saheb. Pozrieme si mešitu Jame a možno aj nedaleké veže mlčania (towers of silence). Oddýchneme si v záhrade s palácom Dowlat Abad a navštívíme vodné muzeum, kde uvidíme ako fungujú originál Qanaty – vodné kanály, ktoré privádzali do púštneho mesta vodu z okolia . Najlepší výhľad na mesto je zo strechy „Art house“ a „Fazeli carpet shop“. Art house je však lepší, lebo má na streche kaviareň. Okolo 12- 13 hod sa presunieme autobusom smer Kerman (cca 4 hodiny). Tu nás vyzdvihne Sajjad Askarpour, +989137455672, s ktorým sa presunieme do púšte, kde prespíme u miestnych (cca 12eur, jemu platíme 28€). 6.den (28.apríl-piatok) – skoro ráno sa hneď vyberieme k jednému z highlightov cesty, na okraj najhorúcejšej púšte sveta Lút k fascinujúcim skalným útvarom Kaluts, ktoré si užijeme ako sa patrí. Poobede sa presunieme k Salt river, cestou naspäť do Kermanu kukneme Qanat, castle, Nabeka (stromy v púšti), v Shahdade sa najeme v lokálnej reštaurácii. Nakoniec sa zastavíme v dedinke Sirch a pozrieme si starý strom. Ak ostane čas, v Kermane si môžeme pozrieť Moshtari-ye Moshtaq Ali Shah s krásnymi tyrkysovými kupolami, fotogenický yakhchal Moayedi a Jabalieh Dome. Návštevu mesta ukoncíme prehliadkou komplexu Ganjali Khan. Potom budú naše kroky smerovať na autobusovú stanicu, kde chytíme nočný spoj do mestečka Nain cez Yazd. (predtým si dáme sprchu u Sajjada) 7.den (29.apríl-sobota) – Doobeda dorazíme do Nainu, kde si pozrieme najstaršiu mešitu v meste. Potom pre nás pride Roohollah Khalili, a urobí pre nás poldňový výlet do púšte Varzaneh (17 USD na osobu - doprava, jedlo, sandboarding, západ slnka na dunách). Po tomto jedinečnom zážitku si ešte užijeme večerný Esfahán a necháme sa zaviesť na vlakovú stanicu, kde si počkáme na nočný vlak do Teheránu. Vlak nám odchádza 22:45-6:15 cca 10€. 8.den (30.apríl-nedeľa) – Vyspaní do ružova z vlaku sa vyberieme brázdiť preplnené ulice Teheránu – prezrieme si symbol mesta – Azadi tower. Za prehliadku stojí aj palác Golestan (neďaleko od stanice, vo väčšej časti budov zakázané fotiť hlavný vchod je námestia Panzdah Khordad na juhozápadnom rohu. Kupujú sa lístky zvlášť pre každú budovu, 50.000 Rial za budovu, 850 000 rialov dokopy !!, preto sa odporúča najmä Main Hall a a Etnogrpahic museum – spolu 350 000 rial). Po obede sa presunieme do hostela, kde sa ubytujeme (Tehran hostel, 9 USD na osobu). Poobede si pôjdeme prezrieť horskú časť hlavného mesta – Darband ("door of the mountain"), ktorá je plná kaviarní a reštaurácii. severovýchodne od mesta do národného parku LAR (cca 1,5 hod.). Tu sa poprechádzame popri jazere Lar, od ktorého je asi najkrajší pohľad na najvyšší vrch krajiny Damavand. do hostela: Tehran hostel, 9 USD na noc. 9. deň (1. máj- pondelok) – Posledný deň necháme na náhodu, alebo na počasie, alebo proste čo sa nám viacej bude chcieť. Ráno sa buď vyberieme do hôr na sever Teheránu, do lyžiarskeho strediska Tochal, kde sa vyvezieme lanovkou na vrch Tochal, do nadmorskej výšky takmer 4000m (lanovka začína z Velenjak valley v 1900m a končí v poslednej stanici v 3740m, 4 stanice: Station 1 - beginning of Velenjak valley, Station 2 v 2400m, very limited facilities, Station 5 v 2935m., reštika, záchranári, je tu aj svah, Station 7 v 3740m, cena cca 11 eur). Ak nám to dýchanie dovolí, po 30 minútovom výšlape zdoláme aj vrch Tochal a pri ceste naspät si skúsime požičat lyže a spravit na iránskych svahoch aspon jeden zjazd). Druhou možnosťou je prechádzka do Lar valley v národnom parku Lar. Na výlet by sme šli s kamošom Hadim, ktorý nás potom odvezie na letisko, kde sa na noc zložíme a skoro ráno odlietame domov (04:10 – 06:55 sme v Ríme, 09:35 z Ríma, v Prahe sme o 11.25). MUST DO: vyskúšat šafránovu zmrzlinu (Yazd), vyskúšat kebab z tavy (Yazd), kuknut si naživo zurkaneh (Yazd/Esfahán), kupit si víno v Shiraze – ale vypit az doma:D JEDLO dizi/abgušt – jedno z národných jedál. Je to jedlo z duseného mäsa, zeleniny a strukovín (cícer). Niektorý ho opisujú aj ako hustú polievku. kebab na špajdli so šafranovou ryžou a s kúskami granátových jabĺk. ťavie mäso – vyskúšajte ho najmä, ak cestujete na jeseň chorešt – v Iráne sa takto volajú obvykle dusené, husté jedlá. Zvyčajne obsahujú mäso, ale sú aj vegetariánske varianty. Do choreštu môže byť pridané aj ovocie (marhule, slivky a pod.) a podáva sa najmä s ryžou prípadne hranolkami. Fesendžán (Khoreš-e Fesenján) - tradiční dušený pokrm (chorešt) z hutné omáčky s vlašskými ořechy a šťávou z granátových jablek. Ghorme sabzi - dušený pokrm (chorešt) se zelenými bylinami populární v Íránu, Iráku a Ázerbájdžánu. Obsahuje kurkumou ochucené kousky jehněčího nebo hovězího masa, fazole, cibuli, sušenou limetku a především orestovanou směs zelených bylin. Abgušt (dizi) - pokrm z dušeného masa, zeleniny a luštěnin, někdy také označovaný za hustou polévku. Připravuje se obvykle ze skopového (jehněčího) masa, cizrny, bílých fazolí, cibule, brambor a rajčat. Jako koření se používá kurkuma a sušená limetka. - iránsky kaviár – Irán najväčší vývozca po Rusku, - chleba (rôzne druhy, Lavaš Nan-e lavash – veľmi tenký, Sangak Nan-e sangak – typický iránsky, pečie sa na kemienkoch – pozor na štrk pri jedení, Taftun Nan-e taftun – tenký ako lavaš, väčšinou so šafránom a kardamonom), feta syr (panir) - chello kebab (kebab s ryžou) - Nejoblíbenějšími variantami je kabab kubide (tj.
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