Tallinn is a very composite city. Throughout its history, it has been characterized by irregular development, a varied pace of building and the continuous cultural interruptions of the modernist era: liberation from the Russian tsarist regime in 1918, a brief, 22-year period of independence KAIDO HAAGEN KAIDO followed by 50 years of Soviet occupation, the structural creation of THE BLACK HOUSE (2010) KAIDO HAAGEN KAIDO 17 Architect: Martin Aunin the 1990s and vigorous integration with the European and global world ESTONIAN MARITIME MUSEUM Address: Valguse 17 1 SEAPLANE HARBOUR (2012) in the 21st century. The latter has seen a period of economic growth Architect: KOKO architects Address: Küti 17A TIIT VEERMÄE TIIT and construction boom accompanied by advantages and drawbacks. CITY PLAZA AND EUROPEAN UNION 7 BUILDING (2004, 2006) Architect: Alver Trummal Architects Address: Tartu mnt 2, Rävala pst 4 KAIDO HAAGEN KAIDO SYNAGOGUE (2007) 12 Architect: KOKO architects Address: Karu 16 REIO AVASTE REIO RESIDENTIAL BUILDING (2007) 2 Architect: Eek & Mutso Address: Noole street 8 FORMER CARPENTER’S WORKSHOP Tallinn: OFFICE BUILDING (2008) 8 HAAGEN KAIDO Architect: KOKO architects Address: Roseni 7 SIPLANEMARTIN LÕVI PARK APARTMENT BUILDINGS BALTIC FILM AND MEDIA SCHOOL (2013) (2012) 18 13 Architect: Alver Architects Architect: Salto architects Address: Hiiu-Suurtüki 4 Collage city RATNIEKS KARLIS Address: Narva Road 27 ESTONIA (EE) — TEXT: TRIIN OJARI, ILLUSTRATION: HARMEN VAN DER HORST Despite its architectural diversity, the main (tourist) of the 21st century there were almost 30,000 inhab- buildings (including buildings of architectural im- attraction of Tallinn is still the medieval old city centre, itants living in the new suburban residential estates portance) have been demolished or reconstructed, which has been upgraded recently through building at or around the borders of the city. The birth of the and a new generation of architects has taken over the on empty sites left by the destruction wrought during real city – with high-rise buildings – has been distinc- scene. The high point of Tallinn’s construction boom AASMAA AULO World War II. The bastion area around the old city tive and left a strong image on the Tallinn’s skyline, lasted from 2006 until 2008; later there have been NEW FLOUR MILL OFFICE BUILDING (2009) and the adjacent streets became the place where the best observed from out at sea. There are new 20- to added single architecturally fascinating buildings. 9 VEERMÄE TIIT Architect: HG Arhitektuur new city centre was established at the beginning of 30-storey commercial buildings competing with the Although the intention of this guide is to highlight de- Address: Rotermanni 8 ART MUSEUM OF ESTONIA (KUMU) the 20th century. Here, important cultural symbols graphically beautiful medieval church spires. After velopments from the past five years, it also includes TELLISKIVI LOOMELINNAK (2011-) (2005) (theatres, the art hall) and the apartment buildings Estonia regained its independence, the new econo- some buildings from the recent boom years as points Architect: Kuu Architects, et al. 14 3 Architect: Pekka Vapaavuori Address: Telliskivi 60A and offices for enterprises in the popular style of my, new aesthetics and new understanding of public of reference. Address: Weizenbergi 34 functionalism were built. Since the 1990s, the con- space would be vigorously manifested throughout One of the unique characteristics of Tallinn is the centration of the city centre and the active growth of its urban space; for this reason, changes to the urban preservation of the 19th- and 20th-century low-rise suburbia have progressed rapidly, allowing the city space over the past two decades have been signif- industrial districts around the old city centre. In these to expand more than ever before. By the beginning icant. In the city centre, quite a number of Soviet areas, the historicism dwellings are mixed with for- VEERMÄE TIIT mer industrial complexes that today have become TALLINN UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY LIBRARY (2009) TOUR GUIDE TOUR popular spots for creative industries and cultural 19 activities, where restaurants and cafés mingle with Architect: AET architects Exploring a Address: Akadeemia tee 15/1 city, region, studios, offices, flea and fashion markets, ecological or theme shops and all kinds of pop-up workshops and enter- EESTI RAUDTEE AS prises. Kalamaja, Kopli, Kadriorg and Uus-Maailm 4 HEADQUARTERS (2008) SIPLANEMARTIN are districts that, in terms of both social and con- Architect: Urmas Lõoke APARTMENT BUILDING (2005) Address: Toompuiestee 35 structive aspects, are experiencing the fastest devel- 15 Architect: 3+1 architects opment at the moment. It is here where we begin our Address: Koidula 24 walk to discover the newer architecture of Tallinn. Located by the sea, Kalamaja and Põhja-Tallinn are the districts with the most prolific legacy of in- 2 1 dustrial and military architecture. Local must-see WEISS FABIAN ROTERMANNI RESIDENCES (2013) sights are the old shipbuilding industries on the PRIVATE VILLA (2010) 20 10 Architect: Alver Architects 21 Kopli peninsula and the dense and cosy historical Address: Rotermanni 10 Architect: Emil Urbel architects 8–11 16 20 14 dwellings of Kalamaja, where today many artists and Address: Merirahu 76A 4 13 12 3 15 bohemian types tend to congregate. ARCHITECTS TRUMMAL ALVER 5 6 7 The area’s most outstanding structure is the FREEDOM SQUARE (2009) ARNE MAASIK ARNE seaplane hangars (1), built in 1917 and the first 5 Architect: Alver Trummal Architects of its kind in the world. Its vast, monolithic con- Address: Vabaduse väljak APARTMENT BUILDING (2006) crete shell has since become the home of the 16 Architect: Künnapu & Padrik architects Address: Liikuri 8A Estonian Maritime Museum (see A10 #46), its huge interior housing even the entirety of a WWII-era 19 ‘ After independence, the KADARIK OTT APARTMENT BUILDING (2009) MERIRAHU APARTMENT BUILDINGS Architect: Kosmos architects new economy, new aesthet- 11 (2007) Address: Aia 4 21 18 Architect: Rein Murula architects ics and new understanding Address: Merirahu 2, 4, 12 of public space were TATARI APARTMENT HOUSE (2009) 17 6 Architect: Martin Aunin vigorously manifested. ’ Address: Tatari 30 58 A10 #56 TOUR GUIDE TOUR GUIDE A10 #56 59 (Tallinn: Collage city) architecture. A bit further from here, in the direction IN THE NEXT ISSUE: Estonian navy submarine. In addition to the Maritime of the old city, is an apartment building (11) on Aia Museum, Patarei – the massive old marine fort – is street. Its expressive, sharp forms are surrounded easily recognizable. Built in the mid-19th century, it by the relatively hectic environment characteristic INTERCHANGE served as a prison for over a century. At the moment, to the edge of the old city. Initially, the idea was to Joost Moolhuijzen (partner at Renzo Piano new use and reconstruction possibilities are being re- rebuild the entire quarter to give it a modern look, Building Workshop), the Dutch wonderkid searched for the heritage-protected complex. There but today this luxury apartment building remains the who was one of the leading architects of the are many examples of mingling new and old archi- only one of its kind. Potzdammer Platz redevelopment merely tecture in the fast-developing Kalamaja residential When proceeding from Rotermanni to Kadriorg, five years after graduation, and whose latest district, for example, the residential building (2) on a brief stop should be made at the synagogue (12) project is The Shard in London, talks about Noole street. The region’s new centre is the Telliskivi on Karu street; a small, arched building resembling what he’s up to now. Loomelinnak (‘creation campus’) (3), a former in- a casket yet still an effective example of its type, dustrial complex that has undergone step-by-step having a wood-panelled hall with 105 seats at its renovation by private investors. Its cafés (F-Hoone, heart. On Narva maantee street is also situated the Pudel, Pokaal) and flea markets have become quite Tallinn University campus. Its main building from popular. These are mainly new types of development the 1930s faces the street, while the new premises projects that tend to preserve the somewhat wild of the Baltic Film and Media School (13) by Salto and creatively instructive environment without stan- architects, again the result of a public competition, dard solutions, merging non-profit enterprises with hides in the courtyard (see A10 #52). The building’s more commercial businesses. entrance was designed as a huge stage, and step- The Telliskivi quarter is separated from the old ping inside it to experience its attractive environ- city by the railway, and the central station of Balti ment – modern studios and classrooms, as well as public spaces in the form of stairs – is a must. The jaam is the largest transportation node of the city. DENANCÉ MICHEL Its Soviet-era modernist station hall was joined re- park in Kadriorg is one of the largest recreational cently by the Shnelli Hotel, designed by Muru Pere areas in Tallinn, surrounding the palace built by Peter EUROVISION: BULGARIA Architects, and the Estonian railway headquarters the Great of Russia and including the new building (4), designed by architect Urmas Lõoke. This new of the Art Museum of Estonia (14), designed by Until recently, Bulgaria did not seem like building with its glass facade clearly turns its back to Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori, which opened the most inspiring place for architects. Rows Kalamaja. When moving on via Toompuiestee street, in 2005. There are also several modern dwellings of Soviet-era buildings sit like dominoes one reaches the heart of Tallinn: Vabaduse väljak of high architectural quality on Weizenbergi, Poska in the landscape, and many are crumbling. But (Freedom Square) (5), designed by Alver Trummal and Koidula streets; the latter’s apartment build- that is changing. Prior to Bulgaria’s accession Architects as the winning entry of a public compe- ing (15) by 3+1 architects is especially notewor- the EU (2007), several young studios had tition.