DOCSLIB.ORG

Lanvin's Designs

Total Page：16

File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb

Download full-text PDF Read full-text
Lanvin's Designs here is no city that takes fashion more seriously than Paris. It is the home of haute couture Tand the city of the Sun King, Louis XIV, whose dazzling court catapulted French fashion into the global spotlight and gave birth to the luxury goods business. In July, when the sun gives the Champs Elysées a warm honeyed glow, new fashion fantasies are born at Paris’s exclusive haute couture shows. These shows with their magical creations demonstrate the very frontiers of craftsmanship, where the talent of the métiers d’art (master artisans) are put to the ultimate test in translating a designer’s vision of beauty into a wearable garment. Like Paris itself, haute couture is about dreams and romance, but many debate its relevance in the modern world. One man lanvin’s who would dispute this is Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais Galliera, the city’s renowned museum of fashion currently designs holding a retrospective of couturier Jeanne Lanvin (1867-1946), to 23 August. on Before Coco Chanel, Lanvin was the force in fashion, having launched her couture house – the oldest in Paris – in 1889. She blazed a trail as an entrepreneur, creating the world’s first luxury lifestyle brand as she moved from designing hats to children’s clothes, women’s wear, lingerie and interior décor. She opened shops in Biarritz, Barcelona and Buenos Aires, and invented the idea of four fashion seasons. In 1927, on her daughter Marguerite’s e 30th birthday, she celebrated by The Lanvin launching the legendary perfume exhibition with ari vintage photos of How couturier Jeanne Lanvin Arpège with its famous mother- the great designer P helped establishS Paris as and-daughter logo that became the i visual identity of the brand. Palais Galliera, the world’s fashion capital hosting the The scope of her vision is Lanvin exhibition striking in its modernity. She was WORDS ii Paula Hardy the first designer to give holistic 1930s La Diva thought to modern lifestyles. j design by Lanvin 43 Despite the bows, ribbons and Lanvin understood pearls that ripple through her silk georgette dresses, her clothes are that good design effortlessly modern and wearable, their apparent simplicity hiding a affects our lives cleverness of cut and meticulous craftsmanship that is the true signature of haute couture. and set within an old engraver’s One focus in the exhibition is a workshop in the Passage des catalogue of exquisite dresses that, Panoramas. Further east, the even today, would fit in fine at the cool Marais district has emerging famous Debutante Ball, held at designers and vintage specialists the revamped Hôtel de Crillon. such as Violette et Léonie, Influenced by the graphic quality of Valentine Gauthier and French Art Deco, the rich ornamentation Trotters. Private fashion tours led of embroidery, crystals, bows and by handbag designer Kasia Dietz beading is expressed judiciously. open the door to many more. The outlook, too, is international. Also getting a thoroughly Take the lamé dress, with its blue Parisian makeover is the silk train quilted in the Japanese historic Forum des Halles. Only obi belt technique, that was Paris could rejuvenate an old inspired by her extensive travels. wholesale food market in such Other beaded silk dresses from style. Meadow-like gardens now the 1920s could easily be mistaken surround a giant golden-hued for a modern Lanvin piece from glass canopy, which will enclose e current artistic director Alber Bespoke handbag a glittering line-up of gourmet Elbaz whose bejewelled mini designer Kasia restaurants and 130 global- Dietz leads private dresses are de rigeur. Thanks to the fashion tours brand boutiques. The crossover summer sales (24 June-4 August), between fashion, food, art and i you can buy one for a snip of the The Debutante Ball architecture would have seemed held at the luxury usual price at Lanvin’s historic Hotel de Crillon is natural to Lanvin who presciently atelier on Rue du Faubourg Saint- a showcase for top understood that good design fashion designers Honoré. It is located just steps affects every aspect of our lives. away from the Golden Triangle – f She would also, no doubt have Gehry’s new an area bordered by the Champs- Fondation approved of the spectacular new Elysées, Avenue Montaigne and Louis Vuitton Fondation Louis Vuitton, a new Avenue Marceau – where you’ll contemporary art museum and find the world’s most famous cultural centre commissioned fashion houses. by another esteemed Parisian Grands magasins (department fashion house, and set in the stores) such as Galeries Lafayette, Bois de Boulogne. Built by Le Printemps and Le Bon Marché Canadian architect Frank Gehry are other big-name fashion its shimmering, glass-panelled addresses, while the arcades exterior is both visually surprising around the Louvre hide posh and technologically smart, just boutiques such as La Petite Robe like Lanvin’s designs. Its aim is to Noire, where Didier Ludot collects reinforce the connection between and sells little black dresses from Louis Vuitton and cutting edge the 1920s to 1990s. You’ll want to art and design. More than that, wear one to the new Caffè Stern, it reminds us that creativity has designed by Philippe Starck always existed at the crossroads between art and consumerism. The way we see ourselves, our RJ FLIES DAILY FROM AMMAN TO PARIS. bodies and our cities shapes FOR TICKET OFFERS AND TOURS VISIT RJ.COM fashion for every season, just as fashion shapes us. Photos: (previous page) La Diva design © Patrimoine Lanvin; Jeanne Lanvin with Laure Albin(this page) Guillot Kasia Dietz © Laure © Chloe Albin Lodge; Guillot/Roger-Viollet; Debutante Ball Palais © Le Bal/Renault/Payal Galliera © Paris Tourist Office, New York (jewellery)/Hotel photographer deDaniel Crillon; Thierry; Frank Gehry Fondation Louis Vuitton © 2014 Eberle Todd 44.
Load more

Recommended publications
  • Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino: Full Transcript of the Interview
    IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Percy Savage Interviewed by Linda Sandino C1046/09 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. THE NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Ref. No.: C1046/09 Playback No.: F15198-99; F15388-90; F15531-35; F15591-92 Collection title: An Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Savage Title: Mr Interviewee’s forenames: Percy Sex: Occupation: Date of birth: 12.10.1926 Mother’s occupation: Father’s occupation: Date(s) of recording: 04.06.2004; 11.06.2004; 02.07.2004; 09.07.2004; 16.07.2004 Location of interview: Name of interviewer: Linda Sandino Type of recorder: Marantz Total no. of tapes: 12 Type of tape: C60 Mono or stereo: stereo Speed: Noise reduction: Original or copy: original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: Interview is open. Copyright of BL Interviewer’s comments: Percy Savage Page 1 C1046/09 Tape 1 Side A (part 1) Tape 1 Side A [part 1] .....to plug it in? No we don’t. Not unless something goes wrong. [inaudible] see well enough, because I can put the [inaudible] light on, if you like? Yes, no, lovely, lovely, thank you.
    [Show full text]
  • Oddo Forum Lyon, January 7&8, 2016
    Oddo Forum Lyon, January 7&8, 2016 Contents V Interparfums V Stock market V 2015 highlights V 2015 & 2016 highlights by brand V 2015 & 2016 results 2 Interparfums ___ 3 Interparfums V An independent "pure player" in the perfume and cosmetics industry V A creator, manufacturer and distributor of prestige perfumes based on a portfolio of international luxury brands 44 Brand portfolio V Brand licenses under exclusive worldwide agreements ° S.T. Dupont (1997 2016) ° Paul Smith (1998 2017) ° Van Cleef & Arpels (2007 2018) ° Montblanc (2010 2020 2025) ° Jimmy Choo (2010 2021) ° Boucheron (2011 2025) ° Balmain (2012 2024) ° Repetto (2012 2025) ° Karl Lagerfeld (2012 2032) ° Coach (2016 2026) V Proprietary brands ° Lanvin (perfumes) (2007) ° Rochas (perfumes & fashion) (2015) 5 License agreements V The license grants a right to use the brand V Over a long-term period (10 years, 15 years, 20 years or more) V In exchange for meeting qualitative obligations: ° Distribution network ° Number of launches ° Nature of advertising expenses… V and quantitative obligations ° Royalties (procedures for calculation, amount and minimum commitment) ° Advertising expenses (budgets, amount and minimum commitment) 6 The brands . A bold luxury fashion brand . Collections with distinctive style for an elegant and glamorous woman . 17 brand name stores . A 12-year license agreement executed in 2012 . One of the world’s most prestigious jewelers . A sensual and feminine universe . Boucheron creations render women resplendent . A 15-year license agreement executed in 2010 7 The brands . A brand created in 1941 with a rich and authentic American heritage . A global leader in premium handbags and lifestyle accessories . 3,000 doors worldwide .
    [Show full text]
  • Jeanne Lanvin
    JEANNE LANVIN A 01long history of success: the If one glances behind the imposing façade of Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 22, in Paris, Lanvin fashion house is the oldest one will see a world full of history. For this is the Lanvin headquarters, the oldest couture in the world. The first creations house in the world. Founded by Jeanne Lanvin, who at the outset of her career could not by the later haute couture salon even afford to buy fabric for her creations. were simple clothes for children. Lanvin’s first contact with fashion came early in life—admittedly less out of creative passion than economic hardship. In order to help support her six younger siblings, Lanvin, then only fifteen, took a job with a tailor in the suburbs of Paris. In 1890, at twenty-seven, Lanvin took the daring leap into independence, though on a modest scale. Not far from the splendid head office of today, she rented two rooms in which, for lack of fabric, she at first made only hats. Since the severe children’s fashions of the turn of the century did not appeal to her, she tailored the clothing for her young daughter Marguerite herself: tunic dresses designed for easy movement (without tight corsets or starched collars) in colorful patterned cotton fabrics, generally adorned with elaborate smocking. The gentle Marguerite, later known as Marie-Blanche, was to become the Salon Lanvin’s first model. When walking JEANNE LANVIN on the street, other mothers asked Lanvin and her daughter from where the colorful loose dresses came.
    [Show full text]
  • The Jeanne Lanvin Impressionist Art Collection
    CONTACT Capucine Milliot (Paris) + 331 40 76 85 88 [email protected] Alexandra Kindermann (London) + 44 207 389 2289 [email protected] Milena Sales (New York) +1 212 636 2676 [email protected] Kate Malin (Hong Kong) + 852 2978 9966 [email protected] The Jeanne Lanvin Impressionist Art Collection EXCEPTIONAL IMPRESSIONIST PAINTINGS FROM THE JEANNE LANVIN COLLECTION AND THE POLIGNAC KERJEAN AND THE FORTERESSE DE POLIGNAC FOUNDATIONS . 1st December 2008 Pierre Auguste Renoir Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) Femme nue au canapé La Coiffure, 1922 Estimate: €800,000-1,200,000 Estimate: €1,000,000-1,500,000 Paris – Christie’s Impressionist and Modern Art department is delighted to announce the sale of the Exceptional Collection of Jeanne Lanvin and the Polignac Foundations. This Collection pays homage to the eye of a woman who personifies Parisian elegance, Jeanne Lanvin, continuing with her daughter Marie-Blanche de Polignac and then on to a dynasty of patrons and lovers of art, the Polignac family. The benchmark collection of Impressionist paintings is estimated to realize around 20 million Euros. It is the most significant collection of Impressionist Art to be offered on the market in France. Thirty-one works by Pierre Bonnard, Eugène Boudin, Georges Braque, Mary Cassatt, Edgar Degas, Jean-Louis Forain, Roger de la Fresnay, Pablo Picasso, Camille Pissarro, Jean-François Raffaelli, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Edouard Vuillard are included in this auction. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will go toward the two Polignac Foundations. According to Anika Guntrum, Head of Department in Paris “This collection carries the imprint of the Lanvin soule, and is a testimony to the way in which Jeanne Lanvin, with her acute business acumen and refined taste, built not only an empire but an eclectic yet perfectly harmonious art collection.
    [Show full text]
  • The War and Fashion
    F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book.
    [Show full text]
  • The 100 Most Renowned Luxury Brands and Their Presence in Europe's Metropolitan Centres
    Glitter and glamour shining brightly The 100 most renowned luxury brands and their presence in Europe’s metropolitan centres Advance • Luxury shopping streets Europe • July 2011 2 Worldwide luxury market has emerged stronger from the financial crisis The global market for luxury goods has emerged from the financial uses images of diligent craftsmen and companies seek to add crafts crisis significantly faster than expected. The likes of Burberry, Gucci firms with long traditions to their portfolios. At the same time, the Group, Hermès, LVMH, Polo Ralph Lauren, Prada and Richemont east-bound shift of manufacturing activities, which was in full swing have recently reported double-digit sales growth or even record an- before the financial crisis, has slowed down significantly. nual sales, which has also reflected favourably on their share prices. Companies’ own store networks have played a significant role in all Rising requirements in the areas of marketing and logistics these success stories, with their retail operations typically growing March saw the launch of Mr Porter, the new men’s fashion portal of ahead of their other divisions. Most recently business has mainly Net-a-Porter, the world’s leading e-commerce seller of luxury goods. been driven by Asia. With the exception of Japan, this is where the Yoox most recently reported a continuing rise in its sales figures. All luxury brands have recorded the highest growth rates. In particular major luxury labels have considerably expanded the online shopping luxury fashion makers have greatly benefited from the booming Chi- offerings on their websites and feature them prominently in their nese market.
    [Show full text]
  • The 18Th Century Back in Fashion
    the palace of veRsailles presents the 18th century back in fashion guide to the exhibition and the grand trianon 8 july – 9 OCTOBer organised with the Grand trianon floor plan the 18th century back in fashion couturiers and fashion designers at the grand trianon The Grand Trianon and the Musée Galliera, the fashion museum of the City of Paris, present in a poetic confrontation costumes from the 18th century and masterpieces of haute couture and fashion design from the 20th and 21st centuries. The 18th century with its floating dresses, its voluminous skirts, flounces and furbelows, its silhouettes of minor marquis in three-piece suits and its immense hairstyles have never ceased to inspire the world of haute couture. The Enlightenment, the age of French Europe according to the famous saying, continues to fascinate. The political and cultural prestige of France was at its highest, when wit, lightness and elegance metamorphosed into a veritable art of fine living. Since 1800, the fashion world has continued to refer back to the 18th century for both women’s and men’s clothing as well as for its textiles and accessories. Like mirrors reflecting each other, the garments exhibited, from haute couture to ready-to-wear, propose Self-guided architecture tour a modern reading of that extravagant century. Each designer adapts the period to his/her sensibility. Some a self-guided architectural tour takes you through the grand quote the 18th century shapes almost literally, while trianon’s most notable places at the same time as the "18th century others deconstruct them, expand their dimensions and back in fashion" exhibition.
    [Show full text]
  • Haute Couture
    NEXT EXHIBITION AT THE CITY HALL PARIS HAUTE COUTURE FREE EXHIBITION AT THE CITY HALL FROM 2 MARCH TO 6 JULY 2013 With the support of Swarovski OPEN EVERY DAY EXCEPT SUNDAYS AND BANK HOLIDAYS, FROM 10 AM TO 7 PM PRESS RELEASE PARIS HAUTE COUTURE Paris City Hall celebrates haute couture from 2 March to 6 July 2013, with an exhi- bition in the Saint-Jean room, in collaboration with the Galliera Museum and the exceptional support of Swarovski. For the first time ever in Paris, fashion capital of the world, an exhibition is bringing together a hundred haute couture dresses and outfits by designers such as Worth, Doucet, Poiret, Lanvin, Vionnet, Patou, Chanel, Molyneux, Rochas, Maggy Rouff, Jacques Heim, Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, Balenciaga, Grès, Balmain, Carven, Christian Dior, Givenchy, Cardin, Yves Saint Laurent, Courrèges, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lacroix, Alaïa… Organised in collaboration with the Galliera Museum – under the artistic direction of Oliver Saillard – the Paris haute couture exhibition invites you to admire these exceptional garments, chosen from the most beautiful pieces in the museum’s collections. A unique opportunity to discover a number of masterpieces, many of which have never been seen before. This group also includes a set of drawings and photographs, enabling the visitor to step behind the scenes of these world-famous fashion houses and observe the creative processes. Haute couture was born in Paris in the mid-19th century and since then, generations of designers have transformed this supposedly frivolous discipline into high art, drawing on the skill of thousands of little hands, like those of the embroiderers and plumassiers (feather workers), whose work in the shadows has kept alive the traditions that help maintain Paris’ influence on fashion all over the world.
    [Show full text]
  • Inter Parfums Sa
    positive underlying growthtrends contents letter to our shareholders 03 operating highlights and key figures 07 the stockmarket and investor relations 09 2007 milestones and 2008 outlook 13 activity and philosophy 15 the products 17 the distribution network 39 sustainable development 41 corporate governance 49 consolidated financials 61 shareholder information 81 auditors and certificates 91 2007 In 2007, the Group achieved In response to stronger than Van Cleef & Arpels fragrances, another year of sustained expected year-end growth, in the initial phase of being growth with consolidated consolidated sales for 2007 integrated in the Group's portfolio, sales of €242.1 million, up 12% marginally exceeded guidance achieved encouraging sales at current exchange rates and issued in the fall. of close to €12 million. 15% at constant exchange rates. Despite the absence of major The first fragrance line launched launches, market shares achieved under the Roxy brand contributed by Burberry fragrances over the sales of €6.6 million in the period years were reinforced by gains and met with a mixed response from its historic lines: on this from the market. basis, sales exceeded the €150 Western Europe (excluding France) million benchmark for the first time. remained the Group's largest Lanvin fragrances met internal market (more than 30% of total targets through sustained growth sales), by the Eclat d’Arpège line (+16% Continued success of Burberry in 2007, +17% in 2006), the Group’s fragrances in the United States top-selling fragrance, that offset fueled strong growth in volume the mixed performance of the in North America, Rumeur line launched in 2006.
    [Show full text]
  • Fashion's Autumn/Winter 2014 Ad Campaigns | Financial Times
    04/01/2020, 10:22 Page 1 of 1 Luxury goods Add to myFT Fashion’s autumn/winter 2014 ad campaigns A deconstruction of the industry’s ads for the season reveals a sombre economic mood Share Save David Hayes AUGUST 8 2014 Hemlines may once have been a cute way of monitoring the state of the economy – rather aptly, they are all over the place these days – but nothing gives a snapshot of global hard-currency health better than a flick through the September issues of the world’s glossiest fashion magazines. Landing on newsstands with a reassuringly weighty thud early this month, the current edition of US Vogue has more advertising than any other American fashion or lifestyle magazine, with a whopping 631 ad pages. Yet it is still down 4.5 per cent on last year’s Lady Gaga extravaganza of 665 pages – which in turn was down on the magazine’s peak of 727 pages of ads in 2007. The luxury sector may not have turned an economic corner – yet. And in fashion terms the mood is not exactly upbeat, either: think brown and black set against brutalist concrete architecture (Prada); corseted women hanging around in a drab hotel suite (Dior); and models trapped in a surrealist crazy golf course from hell, wearing equally disturbing knitwear (Kenzo). Yes, advertising matters, not only as a barometer of the spending trends of the fashion world, but also as a tone-setting exercise. The following images are how fashion should look this autumn/winter, straight from the designer’s eye, so take note.
    [Show full text]
  • Graphic Content
    BIG IN BEIJING DIANE VON FURSTENBERG FETED WITH EXHIBIT IN CHINA. STYLE, PAGE S2 WWDTUESDAY, APRIL 5, 2011 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY ■ $3.00 ZEROING IN Puig Said In Talks Over Gaultier Stake founded in 1982, and remain at the By MILES SOCHA creative helm. As reported, Hermès said Friday PARIS — As Parisian as the Eiffel it had initiated discussions to sell its Tower, Jean Paul Gaultier might soon shares in Gaultier, without identify- become a Spanish-controlled company. ing the potential buyers. The maker According to market sources, of Birkin bags and silk scarves de- Puig — the Barcelona-based parent clined all comment on Monday, as did of Carolina Herrera, Nina Ricci and a spokeswoman for Gaultier. Paco Rabanne — has entered into ex- Puig offi cials could not be reached clusive negotiations to acquire the 45 for comment. percent stake in Gaultier owned by A deal with Puig — a family-owned Hermès International. company that has recently been gain- It is understood Puig will also pur- ing traction with Ricci and expand- chase some shares from Gaultier him- ing Herrera and has a reputation for self, which would give the Spanish being respectful of creative talents beauty giant majority ownership of —would offer a new lease on life for a landmark French house — and in- Gaultier, a designer whose licensing- stantly make it a bigger player in the driven fashion house has struggled to fashion world. thrive in the shadow of fashion giants Gaultier, 58, is expected to retain like Chanel, Dior and Gucci. a signifi cant stake in the company he SEE PAGE 6 IN WWD TODAY Armani Eyes U.S.
    [Show full text]
  • The Hands That Sew the Sequins
    PRESS REVIEW Eric Charles-Donatien The Hands That Sew the Sequins January 19, 2006 By ELIZABETH HAYT François Lesage showing a Saint Laurent fabric made by his company. Ed Alcock for The New York Times EVERY day for the last three weeks in Montmartre, 45 seamstresses at the House of Lesage, France's oldest embroiderer, have been hunched over wooden frames feverishly stitching sequins, rhinestones and beads onto gossamer cloth. Their needlework is so intricate it seems spun from candied sugar. Defying the official French 35-hour workweek, they are rushing to finish some 50 designs for the spring haute couture shows, which begin on Monday. The women are among the treasured "petites mains" (tiny hands), artisans who labor in workshops, that have changed little in a century, doing the elaborate handwork that transforms a designer's dress into a sumptuous showpiece of luxury. They make ornamental silk flowers, curling the edges with heated tools that look like lollipops. They fashion peau de soie evening sandals on custom lasts and stitch straw for hats and polish buttons shaped like bows and plate them in gold. It is in part this handwork that explains why haute couture garments come with astronomical price tags: upward of $25,000 for a suit and $150,000 for an evening gown. © Courtesy of Chanel A model on the catwalk wearing the results of the many specialized workshops of Paris. AA/ ECD / Revue de Presse / 2006.01-NYTimes.docx PRESS REVIEW Eric Charles-Donatien Toil and training alone do not account for the obsession with perfection.
    [Show full text]