Prismologie Takes Leap Into Us Market

23 January 2017 Issue 2 cosmeticsbusiness.com NEWS

BUSINESS 4 EXPERT ADVICE 7 INNOVATION 9 PEOPLE 11 Marks & Spencer reveals 2016 Are women fairly represented Snail slime makes resurgence Caitlyn Jenner launches beauty advent calendar sales in the fragrance industry? in hair care category new range with MAC

Coty acquires 60% fter a successful UK PRISMOLOGIE TAKES launch in 2015, body stake in Younique Acare brand Prismologie LEAP INTO US MARKET will enter the US in February. Coty has acquired 60% of the The brand, which focuses on social selling platform Younique Luxury body care brand plans to bring its products, the healing power of crystals for $600m in cash. which use colour and fragrance to influence mood, and mood-enhancing use of The deal will see Younique colour, is hopeful that its join Coty’s Consumer Beauty across the pond as part of a wider global strategy message will be well received by division as a separate business, US consumers. “Our US leveraging the conglomerate’s launch plans are part of a global R&D, innovation, manufacturing launch strategy for Prismologie. and supply chain resources. We have already launched in The remaining 40% of the Dubai and plan to continue business will continue to be owned by Younique’s Founders with expansion across European – CEO Derek Maxfield and and Middle Eastern markets,” Chief Visionary Officer Prismologie Co-Founder Melanie Huscroft. Sheikha Fatima Al-Sabah told Younique is a social selling Cosmetics Business. “The US, website that allows members of however, is going to be our key the public or ‘Younique market focus for expansion in Presenters’ to start selling the 2017. We’ve done our research brand’s products, such as its and British beauty is thriving best selling Moonstruck 3D internationally based on Fiber Lashes+, through their perceived luxury and quality, as own e-commerce store. reported in The Times Raconteur Today, Younique has Global Market Lifestyle Report.” approximately 200,000 active Storytelling will be a key sellers and 4.1 million focus for the brand. “We have customers in ten countries spent the past year working on including the US, UK, Canada, refining Prismologie’s message Australia, France and Hong in the UK, with a focus on the Kong. Coty CEO Camillo Pane ingredients in our products and said: “Derek and Melanie are their benefits, and it has worked tremendous entrepreneurs who tremendously for us,” said Al- have built one of the most Sabah. “We have a lot of new engaging and fastest growing products in development and e-commerce companies in will move even further into the beauty.” Maxfield and Huscroft healing realm, with treatment will continue to lead Younique, protocols that work alongside along with the rest of the our products.” management, in partnership The brand is also looking to with Coty. grow distribution via chain and The acquisition is due to independent retailers: “We are close in Coty’s Q3 2017, and is in talks with a well-known expected to be immediately national retailer. We will also accretive to Coty’s top-line have our US website up and growth, EBITDA margin and running by March.” FY17 earnings.

BUSINESS

MILK MAKEUP RECEIVES FIRST INVESTMENT ilk Makeup, a US colour cosmetics passionate customer base and innovative, creative NEWS brand, has received a minority DNA that will resonate worldwide.” Main Post Minvestment from private equity company has previous experience in investing in consumer 23 January 2017 Main Post Partners. The investment marks the products companies. It previously invested in Too first outside capital for Milk Makeup and will be Faced Cosmetics before it was acquired by Estée Issue 2 used to help accelerate its growth. Lauder at the end of last year. cosmeticsbusiness.com Milk Makeup is on the expansion trail and has Rassi said: “We are thrilled to have another plans to quadruple its door count in 2017; it is opportunity to invest in an exciting brand with a currently sold through 200 doors. The brand dynamic team and exceptional retail partners.” Editor is available in 50 Sephora Lucy Tandon Copp stores, Urban Outfitters and Reporter Birchbox, and will expand Sarah Parsons into Sephora Canada this Sub Editor year. By the end of 2017 it Austyn King plans to be available in 200 Contributors Sephora stores. Sarah Cohen, Patricia Mansfield- Josh McDowell, Partner of Devine, Michelle Yeomans Main Post, said the company was “excited” to partner with Art Editor Milk Makeup Co-Founder Sibylla Duffy and Creative Director Digital Production Mazdack Rassi and his team. Nita Salem He said: “Milk has a Head of Print & Digital Production Ross Murdoch THIERRY MUGLER CELEBRATES Lush backs regeneration with Managing Director 25 YEARS OF ANGEL IN PARIS Colin Bailey-Wood To celebrate the 25th birthday of its flagship new global Spring Prize fragrance Angel, Thierry Mugler is holding a Lush and the Ethical Consumer Research ‘fairy-like’ exhibition of lights at the Grand Association have announced the launch of the Musée du Parfum in Paris. Lush Spring Prize, which will award worthy Cosmetics Business The exhibition, which will be open until 19 projects working towards environmental and HPCi Media Limited February, is in the garden of the museum and social regeneration with a share of £200,000. Natraj Building aims to create a fairy-garden atmosphere, with The prize fund is now open for nominations The T anneries, light-shows, chandeliers in the form of umbrellas (entries close on 28 February) and projects from 55 Bermondsey St, and illuminations highlighting 50 miniature across the world are encouraged to enter. London SE1 3XG Angel bottles, which are shaped like stars. The annual fund will not only help support +44 20 7193 1279 The chandeliers use 450 crystals each – a total projects that are directly working to revive [email protected] of 8,850, weighing nearly two tonnes. damaged environments but also those looking to Subscriptions The display is designed to work both in overhaul policy. +44 20 7193 1279 daytime and in the evening, and the main Regenerative projects considered could be [email protected] courtyard and facade of the museum have also working to support solidarity, community been flooded in blue light, in a nod to the colour resilience, generating renewable resources or Editorial of the fragrance. restoring ecosystem functions. +44 20 7193 9502 In total, the exhibition, created by Mugler There are four key categories open for entries. [email protected] Studio, required 300m of crystal strings and took These include: Intentional Projects (£50,000), 150 hours to put together. aimed at ideas in the early stages; Young Projects The display can be seen by visitors (£75,000), aimed at projects one to five years old to the Grand Musée as well as the and seeking growth; Established Projects Museum’s separate concept store. (£50,000), ideal for projects that are Concept store visitors will be demonstrating success; and Influence Award given a free miniature of Angel (£25,000), open to projects campaigning to ©HPCi Media Limited with every purchase. influence policy or public opinion. Articles published in this publication may only be reproduced with permission. The The exhibition opened A panel of judges will select winners from a publisher accepts no responsibility for any on the evening of 5 shortlist in March, with the awards presented in statements made in signed contributions or May at a presentation event. in those reproduced from any other source. January with a gala event ISSN 2057-1984 featuring Miss France Ethical Consumer Research Association is a 2017 Alicia Aylies and her non-profit research and consultancy organisation predecessor Iris Mittenaere, that specialises in independent research into along with the pageant’s social, animal welfare and environmental issues. organiser, lawyer Sylvie Tellier, Project details can be found at springprize.org. who won the title in 2002.

BUSINESS

MICRODERMABRASION RISKS EXAMINED NEWS IN BRIEF he risk of transmission of blood- CERAVE SKINCARE borne viruses such as HIV, hepatitis recently created National T B and hepatitis C from needle Winter Skin Relief Day – microdermabrasion is being investigated officially listed on the US by Public Health England (PHE). National Day Calendar on 8 The investigation was prompted after a January. The day is designed series of injuries were reported between to educate consumers about March and May last year in beauty salons the importance of skin in the North West. protection during the cold winter months. CeraVe was Three salon therapists experienced promoting its Healing needlestick injuries while performing Ointment as part of the needle microdermabrasion – a popular campaign. The brand was skin exfoliation treatment that requires acquired by L’Oréal from the use of a handheld needling device to Valeant as part of a $1.3bn prick the skin. deal announced earlier When the skin is pricked it can result in this month. bleeding, putting the therapist and customer at have a needlestick injuries policy in place in your risk of viruses and infections spread through business – this is to safeguard yourself and also blood and bodily fluids. that of your patients and customers.” The three salon therapists were injured using PHE is working with environmental health the same microdermabrasion needling device and officers and the manufacturer of the device in later tested negative for blood borne viruses. question on design changes. The organisations Antonia Mariconda, Safety in Beauty Campaign also plan to support improved infection control Founder, told Cosmetics Business: “It’s essential to guidance for microdermabrasion providers.

GLITTER LIPS, the colour cosmetics brand by Beauty L’ORÉAL INVESTS IN START-UPS Boulevard, has received a SUPERDRUG has announced that its gift VIA PARTECH VENTURES £90,000 investment for 30% of ranges outperformed over the 2016 L’Oréal is putting more resources into backing the business. The financial Christmas period, generating the sub- start-ups with its latest investment in an early injection follows the brand’s category’s best sales to date. appearance on UK television stage fund managed by Partech Ventures The retailer’s gift ranges include limited show Dragons’ Den back in headquartered in Paris, France. edition ranges from Superdrug’s own August. Founders Rachel de The fund, Partech International Venture VII, is brands such as Studio London and Flutter Caux and Paula Short were not said to complement L’Oréal’s strategy to connect as well as blogger exclusives including offered investment from the Tanya Burr and Zoella. to “the world’s hottest start-up scenes” and ‘Dragons’ and later said the The most popular gift was beauty advent finance budding digital businesses. judges had “missed a trick”. calendars, which took just over £1m in Last May, L’Oréal invested in Founders Five months later, the brand has sales. Value was key among consumers Factory, a UK-based company that accelerates now received financial backing with £1 gift sales tripling year-on-year to from International Hair growth of start-ups. L’Oréal also has its own R&I reach roughly £3m. In the previous year’s Cosmetics (IHC). Glitter Lips techology incubator in San Francisco that has update, Superdrug sold one million £1 gift has previously worked with the created a number of digital services. lines. company’s Affinage The latest investment will reward L’Oréal with In total, sales in stores grew 7.2% year- professional hair care brand. innovations and services including prediction and on-year, with colour cosmetics the most popular product purchased over the five personalisation tools, AI and marketplaces. BEAUTYKIND, an online weeks to 2 January 2017. Lubomira Rochet, Chief Digital Officer for beauty retailer that donates Peter Macnab, CEO at A.S. Watson L’Oréal, said: “Our unique relationship with 5% of every sale to the Health & Beauty UK, said: “This Christmas consumer’s charity of choice Partech Ventures will give us access to a high we concentrated on offering customers as at checkout, will hold a quality and comprehensive sourcing of the best many reasons as possible to shop at concert starring Demi B2B and B2C digital players and contribute to Superdrug – from Lovato, Jake Owen and The the group’s global strategy of Open Innovation. market-leading Band Perry on 25 March to prices to free gifts. It will create value across the board for our brand raise money for thousands We also added and marketing teams and will connect us to new of causes. The BeautyKind interest to our ideas and partners to better engage and serve our Unites Concert for Causes stores with more consumers.” inaugural event is expected beauty and health to raise up to $3m for Meanwhile, Philippe Collombel, Co-Managing services and we customers’ charities of Partner of Partech Ventures, praised L’Oréal for look forward to choice, with an estimated being among the first to “understand” the building on this 45,000 people in attendance. potential of digital transformation. next year. I would For each ticket sold, like to thank all He said: “This partnership embodies Partech BeautyKind will donate 50% our colleagues for Ventures’ international DNA and will enable to a charity of the their hard work.” win-win business opportunities for L’Oréal and consumer’s choice. our portfolio companies.”

BUSINESS

NEWS IN BRIEF M&S SELLS 289,000 BEAUTY CALENDARS etailer Marks & Spencer (M&S) has the retailer saw its Clothing & Home business, revealed that it sold 289,000 beauty advent which includes beauty, grow 3.1% in total or Rcalendars in Q3 2016/17. 2.3% like-for-like including online sales. In the 13 weeks to 31 December 2016 – This figure exceeded expectations (about 0.5%) spanning the pre-Christmas sales period – M&S's and represents the first time the category has calendar, which contained products worth a posted a growth in two years. combined value of more than £250, was a hit Chief Executive Steve Rowe said: “In with consumers looking for a luxury twist on Clothing & Home, better ranges, better the Christmas countdown tradition. availability and better prices helped to P&G has released its first Brands inside the calendar included improve our performance in a difficult ever Citizenship Report, providing fresh insight into Rituals, Rodial, Nails Inc, Filorga, Nuxe, marketplace.” the company’s corporate Emma Hardie and skyn, among others. Rowe explained that one of the main culture and attitudes towards In 2015, M&S also launched an reasons behind the growth was that equality in the workplace. advent calendar with a similar deal M&S “substantially reduced” sales on The Cincinnati-based but at a lower price point. promotion in the period, holding off conglomerate has released a Consumers spending £25 on from heavy Sustainability Report since M&S Beauty participation over 1999, but this year decided products were the Black Friday to expand the scope of the document to cover other eligible to buy a weekend and CSR values it upholds. On calendar for a focusing instead the topic of diversity, the further £25. on pushing full report explained that P&G Overall in Q3, price sales. aspires to be as diverse as the people who use its products. BEAUTY RIVALS FASHION SALES AMONG FRENCH CONSUMERS INNOVADERMA, the UK manufacturer of WELEDA recently sponsored French consumers are spending more of their cosmetics ranges including Skinny Tan, The Model Zone at London Leimo Instant Hair and Tripollar Pose, has personal budgets on cosmetics and less on Fashion Week Men’s from 6-9 provided a trading update for H1 2017. January. The natural skin care clothing, according to French national statistics The company announced that the brand hosted a retreat in The bureau Insée. group’s first half year results have been Men’s Model Zone for models The 2015 figures show that French consumers “encouraging”, with revenues forecast to to relax and rest between spent u84bn that year on their personal grow 80% year-on-year to approximately castings, fittings and shows. appearance – a total of around u3,000 per £3m. Fuelling growth is the company’s The area provided models with household. This includes items such as clothing, Skinny Tan product – a premium multi- food, drinks, skin care advice cosmetics and accessories such as handbags and purpose self-tan brand that combines and organic facials. The SOS natural tanning active to tan while also watches, along with services such as hair styling Skin Food Facial was offered, reducing the appearance of cellulite. providing models with 30min of and dry cleaning. While clothing still accounts In October last year, InnovaDerma u skin care treatments including a for the biggest share of the budget, at 1,230 this announced plans to move production to face mask. A goody bag figure has declined from 66% in 1960 to 41% in the UK from Australia. In the first half, it containing Weleda products 2015. Conversely, the percentage spent on also listed on the Main Market of the was also handed out to those cosmetics has risen to 32% or u965 per household. London Stock Exchange and entered the who visited the zone. Purchases of fragrance and toiletries still US market. Going forwards, the group’s account for the lion’s share of cosmetics spend at strategy includes building customer ZEEL, a US beauty massage loyalty and using a digital direct to 58% – a figure that has risen around 5.2% each on-demand company, has consumer method to drive sales. A launched a new massage for year between 1960 and 2015. statement read: “The Board is pleased its clients. The Thrive But the most noticeable trend, said the survey’s with the progress of the Company and Massage by Zeel is authors Pauline Beck and Philippe Serre, is the looks forward to discussing this further at described as a ‘sleep rise in ‘maintenance’ products to use at home. the time of its interim results, massage’ and is said to be These have trebled compared with the amount expected to be in February.” tailored to promote a dedicated to maintenance treatments carried out Skinny Tan was launched healthy, healing night of by a third party, such as at a beauty salon. Home- into A.S. Watson retailer sleep. The massage was Superdrug in February 2016. use products now account for two thirds of all created by Zeel and Thrive The product first made an Global, a corporate and personal care products purchased, compared with impression after the brand’s consumer wellbeing and only half in 1960. The main reason given is the founders, Louise Ferguson productivity platform strong price rises in hair salons. and Kate Cotton, appeared focused on beating stress Surprisingly, however, at 7.3% of the overall on television series Dragons’ and burnout. More than 30% household budget, the amount that French Den. The duo won the of Americans are said to consumers spend on their personal appearance is backing of two ‘dragons’, have trouble getting to sleep less than those in both Italy (8.5%) and the UK Kelly Hoppen and Piers at night. Massage has been Linney. Shortly afterwards, (8.2%, 2014 figures). Except for the UK, said found to aid this problem by InnovaDerma acquired the promoting relaxation. Beck and Serre, there is a downward trend on tanning brand. spending on personal appearance all over Europe.

MARKETS

HERBAL BEAUTY SPREADS ITS ROOTS As consumers continue to embrace healthy living and wellness on a deeper level, herbal and ayurvedic cosmetics brands are increasingly coming into their own

India has long been a leader in the world of ayurvedic-inspired cosmetics, but now other countries are taking interest as natural and organic beauty grows in popularity. The ancient practice of using plants to heal and prevent health problems is something that wellness-oriented consumers from around the world are paying more attention to, especially those in Europe and Asia Pacific. But what can we expect from these markets in particular going forwards?

DEAL-BREAKERS Consumers here are looking for products that have more than one function and address specific issues, such as acne or hair problems, claims analysis by Future Market Insight Global & Consulting. Among the traits desired by consumers are multifunctionality, long lasting formulas and specialisation. Affordable pricing is also said to be a contributing factor towards anticipated market growth.

SKIN WINS The herbal beauty product market is predicted to be dominated by the skin care category through to 2026, holding 45.7% in 2016. Of this category, creams and lotions are predicted to account for major value share over the period. Hair care is forecast to follow in second place. The Asia Pacific region dominated the overall market in terms of value in 2015 and China is anticipated to represent high value share through to 2026.

The forecast value of the $2.5bn herbal beauty products market by 2026

The CAGR of the Europe & Asia Pacific herbal beauty products market from 3.7% 2016-2026

The CAGR of the supermarket channel to 2026. This channel 4.6% is projected to account for the highest share of sales.

RETAIL

NEWS IN BRIEF

SEPHORA is expanding its social impact initiative Sephora Stands. The initiative is part of the company’s strategy to inspire confidence among women. The retailer announced the launch of an open application process for the Sephora Accelerate programme on 11 January to help beauty businesses in the new category of sustainability as well as the pre-existing technology category. Sephora is also planning to introduce confidence classes to support those living with cancer.

AESOP will open a pop-up ACQUA DI PARMA has unveiled its first standalone boutique in Miami, US, in time for its one shop in Paris this month until hundredth anniversary. the end of April, at 205 rue The Italian brand is normally available only through concessions within department stores, but Saint Honoré. The shop is a it opened its 1,000sqft store in Brickell City Centre last December. Consumers will be able to collaboration with the site owner purchase the full range of Acqua di Parma cosmetics, home fragrances and candles. PaulinPaulinPaulin, marketer for “We selected Miami as our first city due to its international recognition in art, design and works by French furniture culture, which are values that define the essence of Acqua di Parma,” said Giovanni Lepori, designer Pierre Paulin. Aesop Acqua di Parma President North America. has chosen iconic Pierre Paulin The boutique is inspired by the style of an elegant Italian home. It has been fitted with marble pieces to furnish the store. A and dark wenge wood to emphasis the yellow-branded Acqua di Parma coloured walls. succession of three rooms aims to progressively disconnect the visitor from the outside world in order to prepare for facial NORDSTROM STORE CLOSURE Printemps opens on Sundays treatments. It is the first time TO AFFECT NEARLY 200 STAFF Aesop has made its facial Nordstrom has announced that it is closing its French department store Le Printemps will now appointment treatments available in Paris. They last 60- 30-year-old MainPlace Mall store in Santa Ana, be able to open its major outlets on Sundays, 75 minutes, and are based on California, impacting just under 200 employees. following an agreement thrashed out with shop ingredients such as parsley The store originally opened in 1987 and is due worker trade unions. seed and vitamin E. The store to close on 17 March 2017. The deal applies to the shops in Paris, will also host talks, workshops Following the closure of the retailer’s San Deauville, Marseille and Cagnes sur Mer. and one-on-one meetings with Diego store in August, this is the second long- Le Printemps had to persuade trade unions both companies’ clients. serving store to close in a 12-month period. representing at least 50% of its staff to agree to However, the company said that the closures Sunday opening. HOLLAND & BARRETT is launching a new flagship in are part of a strategic shift and investment will French trade unions confederation UNSA London, UK. The two-storey continue in retail with store openings at Century finally joined the unions CGC and CFDT, and shop will be over 6,000sqft City and La Jolla later this year. signed the agreement on 30 December. and provide an “interactive Jamie Nordstrom, President of Stores at Under the agreement, regular members of staff experience”. The More store Nordstrom, said: “Southern California is one of will be allowed to work for up to 12 Sundays per includes a vegan nail bar our strongest markets and we’re continuing to year, on a voluntary basis. They will receive and a sports nutrition area invest in our growth there to ensure we’re double pay, a compensatory rest day and u60 in with a body composition offering customers a broad assortment of childcare costs. The company now envisages that machine telling customers their vital health statistics merchandise and a great shopping environment its stores will open every Sunday from spring. and advice on how to build into the future.” Le Printemps is the last major department up their fitness levels. The company aims to offer the 195 non- store chain to move to Sunday opening, which seasonal employees jobs in its other stores. was permitted two years ago by the Loi Macron.

EXPERT ADVICE

networking events often range between 25 to 50 people, which allows members to engage with each other and make valuable connections. Like other industries, the fragrance and flavour industry is tightly knit. Unless you have a connection in the fragrance and flavour Amy Marks-McGee is the industry, it is difficult to break President of Women in into it or change positions. Flavor and Fragrance Varying statistics suggest that Commerce (WFFC) and the around 70-85% of jobs are filled via networking, and the Founder of custom fragrance phrase “it’s not what you know, trend researcher Trendincite it’s who you know” continues to be important. The WFFC What fragrance industry roles is currently expanding its reach are most common among to consumer packaged goods women in the US? companies as they become There are many women members and sponsors. employed in the fragrance and flavour industry who hold a What other benefits does variety of positions. In my WFFC offer its members? personal experience and The WFFC has four signature observation, in the US, many annual events – Annual Gala, women work in marketing, June Recognition Dinner, Fall evaluation and purchasing. Seminar and Golf Outing. The BREAKING Annual Gala is the WFFC’s Are more women working most notable event, which in fragrance now? honours women in the flavour I personally believe that with BARRIERS IN and fragrance industry. Each recent STEM initiatives more year the WFFC alternates women are joining the between fragrance and flavour fragrance and flavour industry. honorees. In 2016, the WFFC In the future, we will see more FRAGRANCE recognised Tamara Steele of women in technical roles such Elizabeth Arden for her as perfumery and R&D. With certain fragrance industry roles dominated accomplishments as a leader, by men, women are seeking out the support of mentor and partner. What kind of fragrance roles organisations to help them break the glass ceiling are common among men? What does WFFC do for the Men are commonly employed Christine Nagel’s appointment will need to look for new next generation? in sales, R&D and perfumery as a master perfumer for luxury opportunities. This also applies To support the next generation positions. However, this is brand Hermès was an exciting to the finished goods landscape. of women in the fragrance and changing and now more and accomplishment and will help flavour industry, the WFFC more women are in these pave the way for more female What kind of support does offers two educational positions. The C-suite positions master perfumers. WFFC find its members need scholarships: the WFFC Flavor are still male-dominated, or seek out the most? Scholarship Award and the Rita particularly among the leading How is the US fragrance In general, I think the WFFC’s Flynn Memorial Fragrance fragrance and flavour suppliers. industry performing and how members seek industry-specific Scholarship Award, named in will this impact professionals? education and networking memory of a strong industry What challenges do women According to figures from opportunities. The WFFC is a figure who paved the way for face in the fragrance industry? Leffingwell & Associates, the unique organisation because it many other women through her In general, I think women face total flavour and fragrance serves both the fragrance and work at Roure Bertrand similar challenges working in market for 2015 was estimated the flavour industry, and offers Dupont in the late 1970s. The the fragrance industry as they to be US$24.7bn (u22.3bn) and seminars and events that cater WFFC is also developing an do in other male-dominated declined about 3.2% from to individuals within the elective mentor programme for industries. I think the biggest 2014. Like other industries, industry as well as those the professional growth of our challenge for women is growth consolidation with mergers and employed in consumer members, which is geared and recognition. Like other acquisitions is apparent. As the packaged goods. For example, towards the younger industries, there is a glass industry landscape quickly the WFFC’s fall seminars have generation. ceiling and there are fewer changes, particularly in the addressed current trends, opportunities for executive large corporations, many emerging markets and industry Share this interview on positions. In perfumery, experienced women and men challenges. The WFFC cosmeticsbusiness.com

DIGITAL

NEWS IN BRIEF SMART MIRROR REFLECTS GROWING TREND

KYLIE JENNER’S LA store lement Electronics and FaceCake are the growing list of cosmetics firms and innovators has caught the attention of latest companies to join the smart mirror launching an ‘Internet of Things’ product. her digital fans. The Lip Kit Etrend with the NextGen vanity mirror. Earlier this month, Kérastase Wall features the 19-year- The augmented launched the Smart Brush and old’s best-selling Kylie reality experience Taiwan-based company New Cosmetics Lip Kits in every shade, with skus lined up to contains sensored Kinpo Group released a mirror create a rainbow effect. LED lights that adapt that analyses environmental Opening her store on 9 to natural or artificial impact on the skin. Elsewhere, December in the Westfield conditions. Griffin Technology has Topanga mall, Jenner posted Consumers will be able produced the Connected on Instagram: “The empire, to virtually see cosmetics Mirror, which connects with it’s all for you. See you soon and accessories on their users’ home wifi. x #TheKylieShop”. The post, real-time reflection. The Consumers are also taking which provides an image of queues of shoppers waiting mirror will also provide to the internet to make their outside the store, received personalised product own DIY smart mirrors, over 1m likes. A photo of the recommendations and with hundreds of websites Lip Kit Wall received over buying options. providing instructions and 1.5m likes and appears to be Founder and CEO of the opportunity to the most talked about aspect FaceCake Linda Smith said: showcase the final of the new store on social. “An intuitive, smart mirror with results. Frequently, a professional quality lighting and Raspberry Pi is used (a an accessible price, it's the make- tiny computer) and the up mirror only dreamed of before process involves with augmented reality features placing a basic LCD that allow for virtual makeovers, display showing white personalised recommendations, elements on a black background social sharing and shopping from behind a one-way mirror. When the comfort of your own home.” this is switched on, the display will be The two companies have joined a shown through the glass. MAC has announced its collaboration with beauty journalist and current Glamour Beauty Director, Alessandra SEPHORA has partnered with RangeMe, ‘Real woman’ wanted to Steinherr for the launch of a an online platform that streamlines product new lipstick shade, debuting in discovery between suppliers and retailers, champion PRAI Beauty April. MAC Cosmetics will be to scale its buying efforts in the US. PRAI Beauty and e-commerce cosmetics retailer launching lipsticks with ten The delivery service claims that the HSN have teamed up to launch a search to global beauty gurus, with LVMH-owned retailer’s buying merchants discover a woman who is “not just a pretty face” Steinherr and Fleur de Force will have access to new products more to represent the luxury skin care company. representing the UK. efficiently than ever before. “Our technology expedites the time it takes for retailers to Through the campaign, the companies aim to FACEBOOK LIVE is proving source products at scale resulting in find a ‘real woman’ that believes doing good is a useful tool for brands. The increased sales and competitive advantage,” just as important as looking and feeling good. live video streaming feature, said Nicky Jackson, Founder and CEO of “We’re launching a nationwide search for a available since April 2015, RangeMe. According to RangeMe, woman who is 40 or older and who embraces the is changing the way brands suppliers will benefit due to the increased concept of giving back to her community. connect with consumers. control over their product marketing and a Someone with true beauty from the inside out,” Benefit Cosmetics’ video, greater access to retail buyers. said PRAI Beauty CEO Cathy Kangas. called How to get the perfect “We are excited to facilitate the product brows for your face shape discovery process for one of the largest The winner will receive a package including an with the Benefit University!, and most innovative beauty retailers in the appearance on HSN, dinner with the judges, an received 34,865 views in a world,” Jackson added. all-expenses-paid trip to Tampa, a year’s worth of week. Male grooming brand PRAI Beauty products and a $500 donation to a The Bluebeards Revenge charity of their choice. Two runners-up will started using Facebook Live receive $250 worth of PRAI products. in August last year. It first The entrants will be judged by PRAI’s Global used the feature at the UK premiere of Suicide Squad in Creative Director, photographer and reality Leicester Square, for which television judge Nigel Barker, as well as Kangas it was the official marketing and HSN Host Amy Morrison. partner. Meanwhile, Face The contest is now open on praibeauty.com, mask brand 7th Heaven gave with the deadline on 1 March. Three finalists will consumers a live tour of its be posted on the PRAI Beauty Facebook page for 30th Birthday event. public voting between 6-10 March. The winner will be announced on 16 March.

INNOVATION

SNAIL SLIME TRACKS INTO OPINION COLUMN HAIR CARE CATEGORY FINDING FREEDOM Snail slime is making a resurgence, with innovation moving beyond skin care into the lucrative hair care category. FROM FRAGRANCE RUTS US-based hair care company Kenra has launched a CC cream for the hair, which it claims is the first professional hair care product With an intangible nature, fragrances are complex to infused with snail essence. understand, let alone create. So how can perfumers The key ingredient already forms part of an established skin care continue to innovate when inspiration runs low? trend in Korea, but the Kenra Platinum Snail CC Creme ($25) aims to replicate its success for the US hair care industry. NANCY MEILAND IS THE FOUNDER OF NANCY MEILAND The product is designed to fight “ten signs of PERFUMES AND REVEALS WHERE SHE FINDS INSPIRATION ageing hair” such as: reducing breakage, improving elasticity and decreasing coarseness as well as targeting hair thinning, dullness, dryness, I’ve been quoted as into a scent then came porosity, scalp irritation and unmanageability. “saying that I am naturally to me. Laken Rose, Director of Field ‘magically drawn to I firmly believe Education at Kenra, told Cosmetics the creation of that every scent that Business: “Snail CC Creme offers many scent’ – and I think touches your skin benefits to maintain the health and that accurately sums defines you uniquely. strength of the hair. It is a great leave- up for me how much The experience and in product for any regimen to control the process of seeking, result will be different for frizz, add healthy shine and create a soft defining and creating a new every person. It’s for that feel for any hair type.” scent is a delicate balance of reason that I am so inspired Kenra’s snail cream has already made art, alchemy, people and by the personalisation of headlines for being incorporated into places. It may sound strange fragrances, what I call Kim Kardashian’s red carpet look and for a parfumier to say, but ‘signature scenting’. A US consumers will be able to purchase fragrance is so much more signature scent is the purest the cream from Ulta and ulta.com. that what you can smell! sensory indulgence. To create My life has been equally each exclusive aroma, I draw split between the countryside on my technical expertise RESEARCHERS REVEAL HOW FAT CELLS and being in town and I derive combined with a sensitively COULD BANISH WRINKLES inspiration from wherever I developed profiling process, A team of US scientists have found a way to use fat to help wounds am – sometimes in the least through which a précis of heal without scars, potentially a revolutionary discovery. expected places. I also love to your very essence emerges. Researchers at the University of Pennsylvania Health System travel in the UK and abroad, This is how I tailor the have identified a method to transform the most common type of and it was during time spent blueprint for an individual’s cells found in healing wounds (myofibroblasts) into fat cells in the Nordics that I took perfume, shaping it from (adipocytes) to prevent scarring. inspiration from the visual, concept through to Although the researchers initially foresee their work helping sensual and aural composition as a precious ode sufferers of skin cancer, and other serious afflictions, the ability to surroundings as well as scents that suggests and accentuates increase fat cells could also help combat of the marine-scapes of all that makes you unique. the ageing process. Denmark for my new And by no means is it “The fat cells are lost naturally fragrance. restricted to the sense of smell through the ageing process, which I would say to anyone since I really do call on every causes the sagging appearance, looking for creative sense. It’s an indulgently as well as deep wrinkles,” inspiration – either visual or multi-sensorial way to arrive George Cotsarelis, Chair of sensorial – always to start with at a scent that’s wholly you. Its Dermatology at the a blank canvas. I believe that accuracy is a beautiful thing. University, told Cosmetics pre-conceived principles and So, my advice to creatives Business. “Our findings can plans can stifle the creative and especially to anyone potentially move us toward a process. Often a fragrance can experiencing a creative or new strategy to regenerate come to me based on inspirational rut, would be to adipocytes in wrinkled skin, something I have felt on my open every sense you have. which could lead us to brand skin or I have seen – or Don’t limit yourself to just new anti-ageing treatments.” sometimes even a memory. visual, or just what you can Costarelis explained that the The power of crashing waves, hear, touch or smell. For me it research is still in its early the cool spray of the sea and is the inspirational blend of all stages, but it could help the unique light of the coast the senses that takes me on other skin were intensely moving – and the journey to the next afflictions, such as interpreting those ‘moments’ fragrance. acne scarring. ”

BRANDS

NEW PRODUCTS

1 CLINIQUE has collaborated with its new collection. Last year, said to give fuller and thicker Anti-Imperfection Serum. The with crayon brand Crayola to Kat Von D entered the UK lashes in eight weeks. range is designed to include expand its Chubby Stick range. market through Debenhams. Launch: out now natural ingredients to aid the The Crayola Chubby Stick Launch: out now skin, including plantain leaf Moisturizing Lip Colour Balm 5 FERNE BEAUTY is a new faux extract to promote a youthful (£17.50) contains ten shades 3 PAUL MITCHELL has tanning brand to enter the UK appearance, and chai hu which have been colour-matched launched a preventative system market by The Only Way Is Essex extract to help enhance the with the stationery shades. The to slow down the process of hair TV star Ferne McCann. The skin’s resilience. The products crayons’ original shade names thinning. The Tea Tree Scalp product contains three key have been dermatologist tested have been used by the brand for Care range (from £7.25) is said ingredients: collagen to enhance and are non-comedogenic. a “sense of nostalgia”. The range to be ideal for men and women and encourage firmer skin, Launch: out now will be exclusively sold at and is a colour-safe daily regime vitamin E to keep skin looking Selfridges in London, but for a infused with the brand’s fresh, and argan oil to moisturise 7 ST. TROPEZ is due to launch limited time will be available at Regeniplex botanical blend to and hydrate. The different self- an instant tan product that also all Clinique counters and online promote optimal scalp health tanning options available include leaves skin looking glossy. from 3 February. and encourage thicker hair. The Natural Glow, Deep Glow, The Instant Tan Finishing Gloss Launch: 31 January range includes a shampoo, Express Tan and Gradual Tan. (£12) is designed to cater for conditioner and tonic. Launch: out now those looking for a subtle touch 2 TOO FACED has collaborated Launch: out now of colour and a natural glossy with tattoo artist and reality TV 6 BAREMINERALS has finish. The gloss comes in one star Kat Von D to launch the 4 NO7 has added two new launched a skin care range to shade designed to work on all limited edition Better Together products to its Lash Impact line target specific imperfections. The skin tones, although colour can collection. Available at – the No7 Lash Impact Lash bareMinerals Collective (£30- be built up for a darker look. Debenhams on Oxford Street, Serum (£16) and No7 Lash £42) contains four products: Launch: out now London, the range includes three Impact Lash Primer (£12.95). Eternalixir Skin Volumizing Oil make-up sets: the Ultimate Eye The primer acts as a 4-in-1 Serum, Brilliant Future Age Share these stories on Collection (£57), a 12-piece heart lash perfector to tint lashes Defense & Renew System, cosmeticsbusiness.com shaped eyeshadow palette, as for natural definition, while Brilliant Future Age Defense & well as Cheek & Lip Makeup Bag separating, improving volume Eye Cream and Blemish Remedy Set (£33) and Bestselling and length and being water- Mascara & Liner Duo (£18). resistant. The Lash Serum is The brand aimed to bring “the signature bold and edgy beauty from Kat Von D” to consumers 3 5

2 6

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MAC and CAITLYN JENNER have teamed up again, this time to launch a complete make-up collection. Following the success of Jenner’s Finally Free MAC lipstick launch last year – which raised $1.3m for US transgender support organisations – the 67-year-old has brought out a full MAC Caitlyn Jenner range (£11.50-£24.50). The collection includes two new lipsticks, Authentic Red and Rocket!; lip pencils in Whirl and Soar; Cremesheen Glass lipglosses in Beautifully Bare, Kindness and Tolerance; eyeshadow in Worthy, Malibu Bronze and Glowing Gold; eye kohl in Teddy; Mineralize Skinfinish in Compassion; and powder blush in Buddy.

ON THE MOVE AT... SHISEIDO

SHISEIDO has international expansion. Speaking about Rey said: “Alexandra is a proven leader in appointed her appointment, Papazian commented: the beauty business, with an outstanding ALEXANDRA “Shiseido Americas and Laura Mercier are track record, and she will be a tremendous PAPAZIAN as its forging an exciting new path in the asset to Laura Mercier as the brand General Manager for cosmetics industry, and I am thrilled to join continues to accelerate.” Laura Mercier. them. I look forward to doing everything Prior to joining L’Oréal, Papazian Papazian previously I can to help this iconic and much-loved worked at various advertising agencies in worked as Senior Vice President for Yves St brand continue to thrive and reach New York and Paris. Laurent at L’Oréal and will move into the customers around the world.” Shiseido acquired Laura Mercier in the new role in March. At L’Oréal, Papazian was responsible for takeover of its former parent company, Reporting to Marc Rey, President and luxury fragrances in the US and France, Gurwitch Products in July 2016, via its US CEO of Shiseido in the US, Papazian will where she most recently led sales for fine subsidiary Shiseido Americas. Nancy be responsible for the development and department stores for brands including Zorovich Bernardini, General Manager of execution of the overall strategy for the Ralph Lauren, Giorgio Armani and Yves Gurwitch Products, will remain in her role Laura Mercier business in the US and other St Laurent. to assist in the transition until 30 April, at countries worldwide. Papazian is attributed to being a key which time she will be leaving the company. In her new role, she will also focus on player in propelling Viktor & Rolf’s increased marketing efforts, product Flowerbomb scent into the top three Share these stories on development, digital outreach and ranking in women’s fragrances. cosmeticsbusiness.com

WHAT’S TRENDING?

amount of mist required. Once it has instructed the device to spray JAPAN TAKES HYDROGEN the appropriate amount of hydrogen mist, the app then stores the condition of the skin, providing graphs of progress that can be MISTS MAINSTREAM easily tracked. Meanwhile, Aska’s Face H2 Cleaning Brush looks to remove Nano-hydrogen infused technology and apps deliver impurities and brighten up dullness with a hydrogen-loaded another level of moisturisation and anti-ageing care cartridge that’s delivered to the skin through a gentle electric current pushed up through ultra-fine bristles. ove over Korea: innovation and inspiration in the beauty There is also the H/C Beauté, Pure Hydrogen Steamer by Ya- device arena is coming from Japan this year as nano- Man, which aims to hydrate the face, body and hair. M hydrogen infused technology and accompanying The warming/cooling function claims to increase elasticity in the apps take off. skin, while the ‘inner care’ aspect is made possible thanks to its Hydrogen is a powerful antioxidant that can reduce oxidative ability to produce hydrogen water for drinking. stress damage in the skin thanks to its small molecular weight, meaning it can easily penetrate the cells and carry its benefits “CARBONATED TREND PICKS UP” around the body through the blood. “With demand for hydrogen-rich water building As Japan’s culture is inherently rooted in healthy living and momentum in Japan, at-home machines have ageing gracefully from the inside out, the cosmetics industry has been designed to be affordable, portable and been heavily investing in the benefits of hydrogen of late. with advanced capabilities to purify the skin As consumers seek to minimise dark spots, smooth out wrinkles and hair. Skin care featuring carbonated gas and reduce inflammation, new launches in this segment include was also extremely popular in Japan a few portable hydrogen-rich water mist machines, ultra-fine cleansing years ago and I think you can see this influence in brushes featuring hydrogen-packed cartridges and steamers that the beauty device category. Panasonic, for instance, double up as inner care drinks. has taken clear inspiration from this trend with its most recent launch: a massager which produces high-density ionised Examples of products heralding the way in this category from carbonated gas. Other developments include face lift products, Japan’s beauty shelves include Cos Beauty’s Hydrogen Water Mist nano steamers and intense pulsed light (IPL) hair removers.” device, which works with a smartphone app to measure the level of Mitsue Konishi, Senior Innovation Analyst, Canadean skin moisture and oil content of the individual to establish the

12 cosmetics business 23 January 2017