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Behind the Scenes

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Verlaine, Khun Buasone and Prapaporn Sompakdee OUR READERS provided great assistance, while Laura, Nick, Rich and Many thanks to the travellers who used the last the rest of the Lonely Planet team were a pleasure to edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful work with, as always. Finally, a special thanks to my advice and interesting anecdotes: wife, Suttawan, for help on this book and much more. Alessandra Furlan, Alexandra van den Broek, Allan Marsden, Ariane Bouf, Di Swanson, Ellis Gladstone, Greg Bloom Harmen Keuning, Helen Newman, Irmi Chamberlain, Big thanks to Lina in Siem Reap and to Nick for the Julia Wilber, Kelly Eberhard, Kennedy Newton, Kylie useful tips on the ever-changing Cambodian travel Tanabe, Lois Taylor, Mark Armitage, Matt Thwaite, scene. Back home, thanks to baby Callie, who just Noel Archbold, Paulo Gaeta, Rachelle Tews, Rebecca couldn’t wait until after my deadlines to arrive, but Deacon, Robert Mclaughlin, Sofie Compiet, Stefan provided moments of tenderness when she did. To her Kleinberger, Stephen Dunn, Susanna Stokes, Thao mama, Windi, thanks for handling the parenting duties Tran, Thomas Wiser, Zara Machado while I was drowning under an avalanche of work. And lastly, thanks to new big sister Anna, as always, for the WRITER THANKS humour and stress relief. Phillip Tang Austin Bush Thanks to local experts Thanh Hoài, Hiếu Trần, Henry Thanks to all the generous people on the ground in in Hoi An, Nam Phùng (Léon), Duy Khang, Blue, Vinh northern and northeastern , and to Jennifer Hiến, Tri, Jonathan Morana, Mark Zazula, Lê Ngọc Lâm Carey for her help and guidance. and, especially, Jay Luong for the adventures. Thanks to Iain Stewart and Laura Crawford. Extra appreciation to Nick Ray Géraldine Galvaing – how much did you enjoy muddy, A huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of double-glazed Coconut 2.0? For Luu Tiến Lê, Giang and , whose warmth and humour, stoicism and Hưng and those who came before. spirit make these countries happy yet humbling places to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar Tim Bewer Sotho, as without her support and encouragement the A hearty kòrp jąi to the many people along the way who adventures would not be possible. To our children, answered my incessant questions or helped me out Julian and Belle, for signing up for some family adven- in other ways during this update. In particular, Nicolas tures in new look Vang Vieng, and mum and dad for Papon-Phalaphanh, Latanakone Keokhamphoui, Yves giving me a taste for travel from a young age. Thanks to 566

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts Contributing Writer in Cambodia and Laos who have helped shaped my knowledge and experience in this country. Thanks Martin Stuart-Fox also to my co-authors for going the extra mile to Martin Stuart-Fox is Emeritus Professor of History at ensure this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the University of Queensland, Australia. He has writ- the Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. ten multiple books and dozens of articles and book chapters on the politics and history of Laos. Richard Waters My special thanks to Elizabeth Vongsa, Adri Berger, Ivan Schulte, Harp, Saly Phimpinith, Dennis Ulstrup, Annabel and Josef, Agnes, Mr Vongdavone and Mar- co. Also thanks as usual to my extended family, the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Lao people, from whom I seem to learn something Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson every trip. Finally, special thanks to Laura Crawford, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of my long-suffering Destination Editor who keeps stoic the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- when my technical skills fail to join the 21st century. ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Illustrations p92-3, p220-221, 406-7 and 408-9 by Williams Michael Weldon Thanks to Dora Whitaker and the LP editors who Cover photograph: Fresco detail, Wat Xieng Thong, keep me in their email contact list. More thanks to Luang Prabrang, Laos; Hemis/AWL ©. Austin Bush and the other LP authors who maintain the quality and expertise of these guides. And much gratitude to my Thailand friends and contacts: Pim, Nong, Jane and Ruengsang. Hugs to my family who keep me busy in my other life as a mum.

Stewart. This guidebook was Lauren O’Connell, Charlotte THIS BOOK produced by the following: Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, This 5th edition of Lonely Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Destination Editors Laura Williamson Planet’s , Cambodia, Crawford, Dora Whitaker Laos & Northern Thailand Assisting Cartographer Product Editor Amanda guidebook was researched Michael Garrett Williamson and written by Phillip Tang, Cover Researcher Naomi Senior Cartographer Diana Tim Bewer, Greg Bloom, Austin Parker Bush, Nick Ray, Martin Stuart- Von Holdt Thanks to Bridget Blair, Book Designer Virginia Fox, Richard Waters and China Jennifer Carey, Kate Chapman, Moreno Williams. Grace Dobell, Bruce Evans, The previous two editions Assisting Editors Sarah Liz Heynes, Jane Grisman, were also written by Greg, Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Catherine Naghten, Martine Austin, Richard and China, Nigel Chin, Carly Hall, Power, Kirsten Rawlings, with Brett Atkinson, David Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Kathryn Rowan, Wibowo Rusli, Eimer, Damian Harper and Iain Ali Lemer, Kate Morgan, Iain Stewart ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 567

Index

C – Cambodia Park (T) 451 Ban Bo Luang (T) 493 Quy Nhon (V) 115 Ch –China Historical Park Ban Lung (C) 247-51, 249 (C) 255 L –Laos (T) 450 (T) 10, 404-36, Vietnam 101 T – Thailand Plain of Jars (L) 332-3, 404, 412-13, 416-17, Ben Tre (V) 153-4 V –Vietnam 332 422-3, 426-7, 10 bicycle travel 549 (T) 451 accommodation 414-15, Cambodia 285 A Si Satchanalai Historical 418-21 Laos 399-400 Park (T) 485 accommodation 539, 540, activities 412-13 Thailand 507 see also individual Sukhothai Historical Park drinking 425-9 Vietnam 174 locations (T) 482-3 entertainment 429-31 birdwatching 42, see Cambodia 178, 280 Terrace of Elephants festivals 414 also wildlife-watching Laos 288, 393-4 (C) 219 food 421-5 Ang Trapeng Thmor Terrace of the Leper King Thailand 401, 502 nightlife 425-9 Reserve (C) 216 (C) 219 Vietnam 48, 168 shopping 431 Bach Ma National Park Wat Phra Si Ratana activities 23-5, 34-42, see sights 404-12 (V) 101-2 also individual activities Mahathat (T) 485 tourist information 431-2 Bac Lieu (V) 152 Cambodia 280 Wat Phu Champasak (L) 377-8 travel to/from 433-4 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary Laos 394-5 (C) 217 architecture travel within 434-6 air travel 549 Laos 391-2 (C) 227-8 Cambodia 285 (C) 263 Vietnam 166 (C) 226, 2 Laos 399 black-shanked doucs area codes 19 bargaining 541, 551 Thailand 506 (C) 247 Cambodia 283 Cambodia 282 Vietnam 174 boat tours, see boat trips Thailand 505 Laos 396 airlines 548 boat travel 549 Vietnam 171 Vietnam 170 airports 548 Cambodia 285-6 art galleries, see museums Battambang (C) 15, 228-35, Ang Nam Ngum (L) 308-9 Laos 400 & galleries 230, 15 Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve Thailand 507 arts accommodation 229, (C) 216 Vietnam 174 Cambodia 278 231-2 National Museum boat trips 38, 17, 39 Laos 391-2 activities 229 (C) 204 Ben Tre (V) 153-4 Thailand 500-1 drinking 233 (C) 219, 224 Halong Bay (V) 72 Vietnam 165-6 food 232-3 (C) 218-19, My Tho (V) 152-3 Association of Southeast nightlife 233 222-3, see also temples Phnom Penh (C) 184 of Angkor Asian Nations (Asean) shopping 233-4 Phu Quoc (V) 159 aquariums 458 510-11 sights 228-9 Tham Kong Lor (L) 17, ATMs tourist information 234 archaeological sites 357-8 Cambodia 282 travel to/from 234-5 Banteay Chhmar (C) 227 Bokor Hill Station (C) 270-1 Forbidden Purple City Laos 396 travel within 235 Thailand 504 Bolaven Plateau region (L) (V) 91 (C) 219, 8-9 385-8 Vietnam 170 Hintang Archaeological beaches 20 Bolikhamsai Province (L) Park (L) 334 An Bang Beach (V) 114 355-63 B My Son (V) 114 Con Dao Islands (V) 126-7 books 510 Baan Dum (T) 488 Phanom Rung Historical Kep (C) 271 Cambodia 280 Bac Ha (V) 80-1, 29 Ko Samet (T) 437 Laos 395 Bac Lieu (V) 152 Mui Ne (V) 123 Thailand 500 Bach Ma National Park (V) Map Pages 000 101-2 Nha Trang (V) 116 border crossings 173-4, 536-8, Photo Pages 000 Bai Tu Long Bay (V) 71 Phu Quoc (V) 158-9 537 568 border crossings continued Savannakhet (L) to food 178, 278-9, 281 Phong Nha Cave (V) 87 Aranya Prathet (T) to Mukdahan (T) 366 highlights 180-1, 180-1 Singkham Cave (L) 341 Poipet (C) 433 Sop Hun (L) to Tay Trang history 275-7 Tham Kong Lor (L) 17, (V) 348 Ban Huay Kon (T) to internet access 281 357-8, 17 Muang Ngeun (L) 497 Takeo (C) to Chau Doc islands 14, 14 Tham Lot Se Bang Fai Boten (L) to Móhān (V) 202 (L) 357 legal matters 281 (Ch) 346 Thai Li (T) to Kaen Thao

INDEX INDEX Tham Nok Ann (L) 366 (L) 463 LGBTIQ travellers 281 Bueng Kan (T) to Paksan Tham Phu Kham (L) local transport 286-7 (L) 462 Tha Na Leng (L) to Nong 309, 306 Khai (T) 305 maps 281 Cham Yeam (C) to Hat Tu Lan Cave (V) 88 B-C Lek (T) 253 Trapaeng Kriel (C) to money 281-2  Vang Vieng (L) 309-11 Nong Nok Khiene northwestern Cambodia

Chanthaburi (T) to Pailin  (C) 447 (L) 244 227-39 Vieng Xai (L) 16, 336, 16 Chau Doc (V) to Phnom Trapeang Phlong (C) to opening hours 282 Wat Tham Chiang Dao (T) 478 Penh (C) 159 Xa Mat (V) 240 people 277-8 caving Chiang Khong (T) to Trat (T) to Ko Kong Phnom Penh 179-201 (C) 447 Hang Son Doong (V) Huay Xai (L) 495 public holidays 282 Vang Tao (L) to Chong 87-8, 12 Chong Chom (T) to O religion 278 Smach (C) 455 Mek (T) 375 Tham Kong Lor (L) 17, safety 282-3 Chong Sa-Ngam (T) to budget 19 357-8, 17 scams 283 Choam (C) 451 Bueng Kan (T) 460 cell phones 18, 545 Siem Reap 204-15 Dansavanh (L) to Lao Bun Pi Mai (L) 23-4 Cambodia 283 south coast 251-75 Bao (V) 363 bus travel 217, 549-50 Laos 398 telephone services 283 Ha Tien (Vietnam) to Cambodia 286 Thailand 505 temples of Angkor (C) 9, Kiep (Cambodia) Laos 400 Vietnam 171 158-9 218-27, 222-3, 2, 8-9, Thailand 507 Central Laos (L) 355-88 Ho Chi Minh City (V) to 220-1 Cham Islands (V) 114-15 Phnom Penh (C) 150 Vietnam 175 time 283 Champasak Province (L) Huay Xai (L) to Chiang business hours tours 287 368-78 Khong (T) 352 border crossings 536 travel seasons 178 Chau Doc (V) 156-7 La Lay (L) to Lalay Cambodia 282 travel to/from 285 Chaul Chnam 24 (V) 387 Laos 397 travel within 285-7 Chi Phat (C) 254 Lao Cai (V) to Kunming Vietnam 170 visas 284 (Ch) 80 Chiang Dao (T) 477-8, 37 volunteering 284 Mukdahan (T) to C Chiang Khan (T) 463-4 wildlife 279 Savannakhet (L) 456 Cai Rang Floating Market Chiang Khong (T) 493-4 Cambodia Landmine Nakhon Phanom (V) 154-5 (T) 465-77, Museum (C) 205 (T) to Tha Khaek Cambodia 46, 178-287 466-7, 28-9 Can Tho (V) 154-6, 30 (L) 457 accommodation 178, 280 accommodation 471-3 car insurance Nam Phao (L) to Cau activities 280 activities 469 Treo (V) 359 Vietnam 169, 176 around Phnom Penh courses 469-70 Nam Soi (L) to Na Meo car travel 550-1 201-4 drinking 473-4 (V) 335 Cambodia 286 around Siem Reap 216-17 entertainment 474 Nong Khai (T) to Laos 400 books 280 festivals 470-1 Vientiane (L) 461 Thailand 507 border crossings to Laos food 473 Nong Nok Khiene (L)to 244, 384 Vietnam 175-6 Trapaeng Kriel (C) 384 nightlife 473-4 border crossings to Cat Ba Island (V) 73-7 O’Yadaw (C) to Le Thanh shopping 474 Thailand 216, 253, cathedrals (V) 250 sights 465-8 433, 447, 451, 455 Dalat Cathedral (V) 129 Paksan (L) to Beung Kan tourist information 475 border crossings to Notre Dame Cathedral (T) 356 travel to/from 475-7 Vietnam 150, 158-9, (V) 136 Phnom Penh (C) to Chau 202, 240, 250, 274 Chiang Rai (T) 486-9, 487 Doc (V) 202 St Joseph Cathedral climate 178 (V) 53-4 Chiang Rai Province (T) 17 Phnom Penh (C) to Ho consulates 280-1 child welfare 543-4 Chi Minh City (V) 202 Cat Tien National Park (V) culture 277-8 133-4 children, travelling with Poipet (C) to Aranya current events 275 43-4, 168 Prathet (T) 216 caves customs regulations 280 China Prek Chak (C) to Xa Xia Hang Son Doong (V) (V) 274 disabilities, travallers 87-8, 12 border crossings 80, with 284 Hang Toi (V) 88 346, 537 drinks 278-9 Hang Va (V) 88 relations with 510 Map Pages 000 electricity 280 Kao Rao Caves (L) 345 Chinese New Year 23 Photo Pages 000 embassies 280-1 Pak Ou Caves (L) 327 Chong Kneas (C) 216-17 environment 279-80 churches & cathedrals 569 Dalat Cathedral (V) 129 currency 18 E Phong Dien Floating Notre Dame Cathedral current events economy Market (V) 155 (V) 136 Cambodia 275-6 Laos 388-9 Vinh Long (V) 154 St Joseph Cathedral Laos 388-9 Thailand 497-8 floating villages (V) 53-4 Thailand 497-8 ecotourism 397 Chong Kneas (C) 216-17 circuses Vietnam 162-3 electricity 539-40 Prek Toal (C) 217

Phare Ponleu Selpak INDEX customs regulations 539 Cambodia 280 food 20, 540, 542, 10, see (C) 232 also cooking classes, Cambodia 280 Vietnam 168 Phare the Cambodian individual locations Circus (C) 213 Laos 395 Elephant Conservation

Cambodia 178,  C-H Thailand 502 Center (L) 354 Citadel (V) 90-1 278-9, 281 cycling 22, 35, 38, see Elephant Valley Project  climate 18, 23-5 Laos 288, 392 also bicycle travel, (C) 245 Cambodia 178 Thailand 401, 501, 503 mountain biking elephants 542, 13 Laos 288 Vietnam 48, 166-7, 169 Battambang (C) 229 embassies 540 Thailand 401 Four Thousand Islands Chiang Mai (T) 469 Cambodia 280-1 Vietnam 48 (L) 11, 379-5, 380, 11, Laos 399-400 Laos 395-6 coffee 289, 386 30-1, 306 Loop, the (L) 362 Thailand 502-3 coffee farms (L) 386 Mekong Discovery Trail Vietnam 168-9 G Con Dao Islands (V) 126-8 (C) 243 emergencies galleries, see museums & consulates 540 Nong Khiaw (L) 337 Phnom Penh (C) 198 galleries Cambodia 280-1 Phnom Penh (C) 185 environment gardens Laos 395-6 Thailand 507 Cambodia 279-80 Co Ha Gardens (V) 91 Thailand 502-3 Laos 392-3 Lumphini Park (T) 411 Vietnam 168-9 D Queen Sirikit Botanic Dai Nam Theme Park (V) Thailand 501 cooking classes Gardens (T) 477 151-2 Vietnam 167-8 Bangkok (T) 412-13 Senteurs d’Angkor Dalat (V) 128-32, 130 environmental concerns Battambang (C) 229 542-3 Botanic Garden (C) Danang (V) 102-6, 104 205 Chiang Mai (T) 469-70 etiquette 499, 546 dangers, see safety gay travellers 540 Ho Chi Minh City (V) 140 events 23-5, see also debit cards Hoi An (V) 109-10 individual locations Cambodia 281 Cambodia 282 Luang Prabang (L) 318 Candle Parade (T) 453-4 Thailand 429, 503 Laos 397 Mui Ne (V) 123 Chinese New Year 414 Vietnam 170 Thailand 504 Pai (T) 480 Elephant Festival (L) 354 gibbons 247, 248 Vietnam 170 Phnom Penh (C) 185 Lai Reua Fai (T) 457 Gibbon Experience (L) 351 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) Sapa (V) 83-4 Songkran (T) 470 Golden Triangle (T) 490-3 (V) 100 Siem Reap (C) 208 Tet (V) 56 golf (C) 205, 207 Dien Bien Phu (V) 85-6 COPE Visitor Centre (L) exchange rates 19 great hornbill 42 289 disabilities, travellers with 546 courses F H Cambodia 284 coffee 289 face, losing 528 Haiphong (V) 77-8 discount cards 539 cooking 83-4, 109-10, Fansipan (V) 82 Halong Bay (V) 10, 71-2, diving 35, 40 123, 140, 185, 208, farms 10, 27, 39 Con Dao Islands (V) 127 229, 318, 412-13, 469- coffee 386 Halong City (V) 72-3 70, 480 Hoi An (V) 107 palm sugar 380 Hang Son Doong (V) diving 159, 255 Ko Chang (T) 442 87-8 pepper 271 12 weaving 293, 325 Phu Quoc (V) 159 Hanoi (V) 16, 49-69, , silk worms 205, 329 56-7 credit cards Sihanoukville (C) 255-6 60-1, 16 festivals 23-5, see also Cambodia 282 Doi Phu Kha National Park individual locations accommodation 57-9 (T) 496-7 Laos 397 Candle Parade (T) 453-4 activities 55 doucs, black-shanked Thailand 504 Chinese New Year drinking 64-5 (C) 247 Vietnam 170 (T) 414 entertainment 65 drinks Cu Chi tunnels (V) 152 Elephant Festival (L) 354 festivals 56-7 Cambodia 278-9 Cuc Phuong National Park Lai Reua Fai (T) 457 food 59-64 Laos 392 (V) 70-1 Songkran (T) 470 nightlife 64-5 Thailand 501 cultural encounters 21-2 Tet (V) 56 shopping 65-6 Vietnam 167 culture 527-34 films 510 sights 49, 53-5 drugs 541, 544, see also Cambodia 277-8 floating markets, see tourist information 66-7 safety Laos 390-2 also markets tours 55-6 Cambodia 283 Thailand 500-1 Cai Rang (V) 154-5 travel to/from 67-8 Duong Dong (V) 158 Vietnam 165-6 Can Tho (V) 154-5, 30 travel within 68-9 570 Hanoi Hilton (V) 49 nightlife 113 (T) border crossings to health 552-6 shopping 113 450-1, 42 China 346 children 44 sights 106-7 Khmer barbecues 194 border crossings to health insurance tourist information 513-14 Thailand 305, 352, 356, 366, 375, 456, 113-14 Killing Fields of Choeung Cambodia 281 457, 461, 462, 463, Ek (C) 183 Thailand 503-4 tours 110 495, 497

INDEX INDEX (C) Vietnam 169 travel to/from 114 border crossings to 201-3 hiking, see trekking travel within 114 Vietnam 335, 348, kitesurfing 40, historic sites holidays 542 42 359, 363, 387

H-L Mui Ne (V) 123  Citadel (V) 90-1 Cambodia 282 central Laos 355-88 Laos 397-8 Sihanoukville (C) 255 climate 288

Cu Chi tunnels (V) 152  Hamburger Hill (V) 100 Thailand 504-5 Ko Chang (T) 442-7, 443 consulates 395-6 Imperial Enclosure Vietnam 171 Ko Kut (T) 16, 444, 16 culture 390-2 (V) 90 Hua Phan Province (L) Ko Mak (T) 445 customs regulations 395 Killing Fields of Choeung 328-36 Ko Samet (T) 436-9, 438 drinks 392 Ek (C) 183 Hue (V) 89-100, 96-7, 92-3 Ko Wai (T) 445 economy 388-9 Reunification Palace accommodation 94-5 Koh Kong City (C) 251-4, embassies 395-6 (V) 136 drinking 98-9 252 environment 392-3 Royal Palace (C) 179 food 95, 98, 99 Koh Kong Conservation food 288, 392, 306 Vinh Moc Tunnels (V) Corridor (C) 254-5 nightllife 98-9 highlights 290-1, 290-1 100 (C) 264, , shopping 99 14 21 history 389-90 history 512-26 Koh Rong Sanloem (C) 265 sights 90-1, 94 holidays 397-8 Cambodia 275-7 Archipelago tourist information 99 internet access 396 Laos 389-90 (C) 265-6 travel to/from 99, 100 legal matters 396 Thailand 498-500 Koh Ta Kiev (C) 266 travel within 99 LGBTIQ travellers 396 Vietnam 163-5 (C) 266 Luang Prabang 315-27 hitching 551 Koh Tonsay (C) 271-2 I maps 396 Hmong (V) 81, 530, 29 immigration, see border Kompong Cham & Around money 396-7 Ho Chi Minh City (V) 14, crossings, visas (C) 239-41 northern Laos 328-55 134-51, 135, 138, 143, Imperial Enclosure (V) 90 Kompong Pluk (C) 217 148, 14 insurance Kompong Thom (C) 237-8 opening hours 397 passports 399 accommodation 140-2 Cambodia 281 Kratie (C) 241-3, 242 activities 139-40 Thailand 503-4 Kublai Khan 515 politics 388-9 courses 140 travel 552 postal services 397 drinking 145-7 Vietnam 169 L public holidays 397-8 entertainment 147 internet access 540 lakes religion 389, 391 festivals 140 Cambodia 281 Boeng Yeak Lom (C) 247 safety 398 food 142-5 Laos 396 Ho Tay (V) 54 southern Laos 388-88 nightlife 145-7 Thailand 504 Hoan Kiem Lake (V) 53 telephone services 398 shopping 147-9 internet resources 19, Nam Tien (L) 354 tourist information 398 sights 134-9 543-4, 553 Xuan Huong Lake (V) travel to/from 399 tourist information 149 itineraries 26-33, 26, 128-9 travel within 399-400 tours 140 28, 31 languages 557-64 Vientiane 289-304 travel to/from 149-50 Khmer 557-8 visas 398, 399 travel within 151 J Lao 558-60 volunteering 398-9 Jim Thompson House Ho Chi Minh Trail (L) 367 Thai 560-1 wildlife 393 (T) 411 Hoan Kiem Lake (V) 53 Vietnamese 561-2 women travellers 399 Lao Cai (V) 79-80 Hoi An (V) 11, 106-12, K work 399 Laos 46, 288-400 legal matters 540-1 108, 11 Kampot (C) 266-70, 268 accommodation 110-12 accommodation 288, Cambodia 281 Kao Rao Caves (L) 345 393-4 activities 107, 109 Laos 396 kayaking 38, 39 activities 394-5 courses 109-10 Thailand 504 Battambang (C) 229 architecture 391-2 drinking 113 lesbian travellers 540 Cat Ba Island (V) 75 around Luang Prabang festivals 110 Cambodia 281 Hoi An (V) 107 327-8 food 112-13 Laos 396 Ko Chang (T) 442-3 around Vientiane 304-15 Thailand 429, 503 Vang Vieng (L) 311 art 391-2 Vietnam 170 Kep (C) 271-3 books 395 Map Pages 000 LGBTIQ travellers 540 Khammuan Province (L) border crossings to Photo Pages 000 Cambodia 281 355-63 Cambodia 244, 384 571 Thailand 429, 503 massages 22, 547, see 13, 245-7 Genocidal Crimes (C) Vietnam 170 also spas money 18, 19, 541 179, 182 local transport 551 Bangkok (T) 405, 413 Cambodia 281-2 Ubon Ratchathani Cambodia 286-7 Chiang Mai (T) 469, 470 Laos 396-7 National Museum (T) 452-3 Thailand 507 Luang Prabang (L) 318 Thailand 504 Hanoi (V) 55 UXO Laos Information Vietnam 176 Vietnam 170 Centre (L) 317 Hoi An (V) 107-8 INDEX Loei (T) 462-3 motorcycle travel 22, 35, Vietnamese Women’s Loi Krathong(T) 25 Nong Khiaw (L) 336 37, 550-1, 36 Museum (V) 53 Loop, the (L) 362 Pakse (L) 369 Cambodia 286 Vietnam Museum of losing face 528 Phnom Penh (C) 185 Laos 362, 400 Ethnology (V) 54  L-N Siem Reap (C) 207-8  Luang Namtha (L) 9, Thailand 507 War Museum (L) 368 342-5, 343 Sihanoukville (C) 256 Vietnam 86, 175-6 War Remnants Museum Luang Prabang (L) 315-27, Vientiane (L) 293 mountain biking 74, see (V) 134-6 318, 320 mausoleums, see also also cycling Xieng Khuan (L) 289 accommodation 321-3 tombs Muang Ngoi District (L) My Tho (V) 152-3 activities 317-19 Ho Chi Minh’s 336-40 (Burma) courses 317-19 Mausoleum (V) 54 Mui Ne (V) 123-6, 124, 41 border crossings 537 drinking 324-5 meditation Mukdahan (T) 455-6 entertainment 325 Bangkok (T) 413 museums & galleries N festivals 319-21 Chiang Mai (T) 469, 470 Angkor National Nakhon Phanom (T) 456-8 food 323-4 Phnom Penh (C) 185 Museum (C) 204 nightlife 324-5 Udong (C) 204 Cambodia Landmine (Khorat) (T) 447-9, Museum (C) 205 shopping 325 Mekong Discovery Trail 448 (C) 243 Champasak Historical Nam Et/Phou Louey sights 316-17 Mekong region Heritage Museum National Protected Area tourist information (L) 368 books 510 (L) 333 325-6 Dien Bien Phu Museum culture 527-34 Nan (T) 494-6 tours 319 (V) 86 economics 510-11 National Museum of travel to/from 326-7 Dusit Palace Park (T) 411 Cambodia (C) 179 economy 531-2 travel within 327 Fine Arts Museum national parks & reserves, films 510 lunar calendar 534 (V) 136 see also nature highlights 6-7, 6-7 Ho Chi Minh Museum reserves, wildlife M history 512-26 (T) 456 reserves Mae Salong (T) 491-3, 17 people 511, 527-34 Hoa Lo Prison Museum Ba Be National Park Mai Chau (V) 79 politics 510-11 (V) 49, 53 (V) 78 population 511 Hor Kaew Mukdahan Bach Ma National Park border crossings 537 religion 511, 532-4 (T) 455 (V) 101-2 maps 541 responsible travel 19, Lanna Folklife Museum Bokor National Park (C) 270 Cambodia 281 542-4 (T) 465 Cat Ba National Park Laos 396 travel within 19, 44 Mae Fah Luang Art & Culture Park (T) 486 (V) 74 Thailand 504 Mekong River 30-1, 31, 39 Museum of Cham Cat Tien National Park memorials Vietnam 170 Sculpture (V) 102 (V) 133-4 A1 Hill (V) 85 marijuana 545 Museum of Siam (T) 410 Cuc Phuong National Wat Somrong Knong markets 22, see also Nan National Museum Park (V) 70-1 (C) 228 floating markets (T) 494 Doi Phu Kha National Middle Mekong (L) 350-5 Amulet Market (T) 410 National Museum (T) Park (T) 496-7 Bac Ha (V) 80-1 minorities 529-31, see also 410 Khao Yai National Park people Chatuchak Weekend National Museum of (T) 450-1, 42 Market (T) 411-12 Akha 17 Cambodia (C) 179 Kirirom National Park Chiang Mai (T) 474 Bunong 246 National Museum of (C) 201-3 Hanoi (V) 49, 66 Cham 529 Vietnamese History Nam Ha NPA (L) 342 Ho Chi Minh City (V) Dzao 531 (V) 53 Pha Taem National Park 137-8 Hmong 81, 530, 29 Oub Kham Museum (T) 464 Phnom Penh (C) 194 Karen 531 (T) 486 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park (V) 12, Sapa (V) 82 mobile phones 18, 545 Royal Palace (L) 316-17 87-9, 12 Talat Mai (T) 410-11 Cambodia 283 Sapa Museum (V) 81-2 Phu Den Din NPA (L) 349 Talat Warorot (T) 465 Laos 398 Siam Society & Ban Kamthieng (T) 411 Phu Hin Bun NPA (L) Tha Sadet Market (T) Thailand 505 Suan Pakkad Palace 359-60 459 Vietnam 171 martial arts 413 Museum (T) 411 Ream National Park Mondulkiri Province (C) Tuol Sleng Museum of (C) 263 572 national parks & reserves Pakse (L) 368-74, 370 photography reserves, see national continued Pakse region (L) 378-80 Thailand 504 parks & reserves, Se Pian NPA (L) 368-9 palm sugar farms (L) 380 Vietnam 170-1 wildlife reserves Vietnam 168 parks Phu Khao Khuay National responsible travel 19, 542-4 Co Ha Gardens (V) 91 Protected Area (L) (C) 248 304-5, 308 Reunification Palace Lumphini Park (T) 411 (V) 136

INDEX INDEX nature reserves, see Phu Quoc Island (V) 157-62 Queen Sirikit Botanic rice cakes (V) 99 also national parks Gardens (T) 477 Phu Si (L) 316 & reserves, wildlife rice terraces , Plain of Jars (L) 332-3, 332 2 34 reserves Senteurs d’Angkor Botanic Garden (C) rock climbing 40-2 N-S planning  Cat Tien National Park 205 Cat Ba Island (V) 74-5 (V) 133 activities 34-42 passports Chiang Mai (T) 469  Dao Tien Endangered budgeting 18-19 Fansipan (V) 82 Primate Species Laos 399 calendar of events 23-5 Centre (V) 133-4 Pchum Ben (C) 24-5 children 43-4 Kampot (C) 270 Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife pepper farms (C) 271 internet resources 18-19 Laos 395 Sanctuary (T) 478 people 527-34, see also itineraries 26-33 Vang Vieng (L) 311-12 minorities Peam Krasaop Mangrove Mekong region basics Rocket Festival 24 Sanctuary (C) 251 Cambodia 277-8 18-19 Royal Palace (C) 179, 13 Phu Quoc National Park Laos 390-2 travel seasons 18-19, ruins, see archaeological (V) 158 Thailand 500 23-5 sites Nha Trang (V) 116-23, 118 Vietnam 165-6 politics 510-11 accommodation 119-20 Pha Taem National Park Laos 388-9 S safety 544-5 activities 117-19 (T) 464 Thailand 497-8 bag-snatching 199 drinking 121-2 Pha That Luang (L) 289 postal services 541-2 Cambodia 282-3 food 120-1 Phanom Rung (T) 451-2 Laos 397 children 44 nightlife 121-2 Phare Ponleu Selpak Thailand 504 (C) 232 Laos 398 sights 116-17 Prasat Preah Vihear (C) tourist information 122 (T) 236 scams 59, 283, 536, 544 tours 119 15, 450, 15 of Kompong Thailand 505 travel to/from 122-3 Phnom Chhnork (C) 273 Svay (C) 236 trekking 35 travel within 122-3 (C) 203 Preah Rumkel (C) 244-5 Vietnam 171 nightlife 22, see also Phnom Penh (C) 13, Prek Toal (C) 217 Saigon, see Ho Chi Minh individual locations 179-201, 182, 184-5, Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary City , Ninh Binh (V) 69-70 192 13 (C) 217 sailing accommodation 187-9 Cat Ba Island (V) 75 Nong Khai (T) 458-61, 458 primates 247 activities 184-6 noodles 299 public holidays 542 Mui Ne (V) 123 drinking 194-6 northeastern Thailand Cambodia 282 Sala Kaew Ku (T) 458 447-64 entertainment 196 Laos 397-8 (C) 238 northern buff-cheeked food 189-91, 193-4 Thailand 504-5 Sapa (V) 81-5, 83, 34, 36 gibbons 248 nightlife 194-6 Vietnam 171 Savannakhet (L) 363-7, northern Laos 328-55 shopping 196-7 puppetry, water 166 364 northern Thailand 46, sights 179, 182-3 Savannakhet Province (L) 464-97 tourist information 197-8 Q 363-8 northwestern Laos 340-7 tours 186-7 Quy Nhon (V) 115-16 scams 536, 544 travel to/from 198-200 Cambodia 283 O travel within 201 R Vietnam 59 Rabbit Island (C) 271-2 off the beaten track 32-3 Phnom Sampeau (C) 235 Sen Monorom (C) 245-7 Rach Gia (V) 157 opening hours Phnom Santuk (C) 238 Shadow Puppet Theatre & rafting border crossings 536 Phnom Tamao Wildlife Cinéma Tuktuk (L) 375 Cambodia 282 Rescue Centre (C) Chiang Mai (T) 469, shopping 22, see also Laos 397 203-4 28-9 individual locations Vietnam 170 Phong Dien Floating Pai (T) 480 Si Phan Don (L) 11, 379-5, Market (V) 155 Ratanakiri Province (C) 13, 380, 11, 30-1, 306 P Phong Nha-Ke Bang 247-51 Siem Reap (C) 204-16, 206 Pai (T) 479-82, 480 National Park (V) 12, Ream National Park (C) accommodation 209-11 Pak Ou Caves (L) 327 87-9, 12 263 activities 205, 207-8 Phongsali Province (L) religion 511,.532-4 courses 208 347-50 Cambodia 278 drinking 213 Phonsavan (L) 328-32, Map Pages 000 Laos 389, 391 entertainment 213 330 Photo Pages 000 Thailand 500 food 211-12 Vietnam 165 573 itineraries 205 Thailand 505 Buddha; T) 410 travel within 506-8 nightlife 213 Vietnam 171 Wat Xieng Thong (L) visas 505-6 shopping 213-14 temples 20 317, 5, 9 volunteering 506 sights 204-5 Angkor Thom (C) 219, temples of Angkor (C) 9, women travellers 506 tourist information 224 218-27, 222-3, 2, 8-9, Thailand’s eastern 214-15 Angkor Wat (C) 9, 218-27, 220-1 seaboard 436-47

tours 208-9 222-3, 2, 8-9 admission fees 218 Tham Kong Lor (L) 17, INDEX travel to/from 215 Bach Ma Temple (V) 49 shopping 226 357-8, 17 travel within 215 Banteay Chhmar (C) Tet (V) 23 Tham Lot Se Bang Fai

Sihanoukville (C) 255-63, 227-8 Tha Khaek (L) 359-62, (L) 357  S-T 256, 259, 260 Banteay Srei (C) 226, 2 360 Tham Nok Ann (L) 336  accommodation 256-8 Bayon (C) 9, 219, 8-9 Tha Ton (T) 478-9 Tham Phu Kham (L) 309, activities 255-6 Jade Emperor Pagoda Thailand 401-508 306 drinking 260-1 (V) 137 accommodation 401, theft 544-5 food 258-60 Phnom Chhnork (C) 273 502 thermal baths, see spas nightlife 260-1 Phnom Chisor (C) 203 arts 500-1 time 18, 545 shopping 261 Phra Chiang Saen Si Bangkok 404-36 Cambodia 283 Phaendin (T) 490-1 sights 255 books 500 Thailand 505 Phuoc An Hoi Quan tourist information 262 border crossings to Vietnam 171 Pagoda (V) 138 Cambodia 216, 253, travel to/from 262-3 tipping 282, 541 Po Nagar Cham Towers 433, 447, 451, 455 travel within 263 toilets 545-6 (V) 116-17 border crossings to Laos Thailand 505 silk-weaving farms Prasat Preah Vihear 305, 352, 356, 366, Cambodia 205 (C) 236 375, 456, 457, 461, Vietnam 171 Laos 329 Preah Khan of Kompong 462, 463, 495, 497 tombs 20 Silver Pagoda (C) 179 Svay (C) 236 car travel 507 Hue (V) 91-2 snorkelling 35, 40 Sambor Prei Kuk (C) 238 climate 401 Vietnam 101 Hoi An (V) 107 Silver Pagoda (C) 179 consulates 502-3 Vo Thi Sau (V) 128 Phu Quoc (V) 159 (C) 224-5 culture 500-1 Tonlé Bati (C) 204 Songkran (T) 23 Temple of Literature customs regulations 502 tourist information 546, see also individual southern islands (C) 263-6 (V) 54 eastern seaboard 436-7 locations southern Laos (L) 355-88 temples of Angkor (C) 9, drinks 501 Laos 398 spas 22, 256, see 218-27, 222-3, 2, 8-9, economy 497-8 Thailand 505 also massages 220-1 embassies 502-3 Vietnam 171-2 Champasak (L) 375-6 Thien Mu Pagoda (V) 94 environment 501 tours Hanoi 55 To Mieu Temple Complex films 501 (V) 91 Cambodia 287 Hoi An (V) 107-8 food 401, 501, 503 Tonlé Bati (C) 204 Thailand 507-8 Luang Prabang (L) 318 highlights 402-3, 402-3 Wat Arun (T) 405, 410 Vientiane 293-4 Mui Ne (V) 123 history 498-500 Wat Chedi Luang (T) 465 train travel 551 Nha Trang (V) 118-20 insurance 503-4 Wat Ek Phnom (C) 235 Thailand 508 Phnom Penh (C) 185 internet access 504 Wat Hin Mak Peng (T) Vietnam 176-7 Siem Reap (C) 207-8 legal matters 504 461-2 transport 548-51, see also Sihanoukville (C) 256 Wat Luang (L) 368 LGBTIQ travellers 503 individual locations Vientiane (L) 293 maps 504 Wat Pha Baht Phonsan Trat (T) 439-42, 440 street food 540 money 504 (L) 308 travel insurance 540 Vietnam 63 northeastern Thailand Wat Phan Tao (T) 465 travelling responsibly 19, Stung Treng (C) 243-4 447-64 Wat Pho (T) 405, 408-9 542-4 northern Thailand Sukhothai (T) 12, 482-5, 13 Wat Phra Kaew & Grand travel seasons 18, see also 464-497 Sukhothai Historical Park Palace (T) 404-5, individual regions (T) 482 photography 504 406-7 trekking 20-1, 35-6, 37 surfing 40 politics 497-8 Wat Phra Singh (T) 465 Cat Ba Island (V) 75 Surin Project (T) 452 postal services 504 Wat Phra That Doi Chiang Mai (T) 470 public holidays 504-5 Suthep (T) 468 Con Dao Islands (V) 127 T religion 500 Wat Phumin (T) 494 Fansipan (V) 82 Ta Prohm (C) 224-5 safety 505 Wat Rong Khum (T) 488 Ko Chang (T) 443-4 Tat Kuang Si (L) 327-8 telephone services 505 Wat Salaloi (T) 448 Luang Namtha (L) 343 Tat Sae (L) 328 time 505 Wat Si Saket (L) 289 Muang Sing (L) 346 telephone services 18, 545 toilets 505 Wat Si Ubon Rattanaram Nong Khiaw (L) 337 Cambodia 283 (T) 452 tourist information 505 Phongsali (L) 349 Laos 398 Wat Traimit (Golden travel to/from 506 574 tubing 311 border crossings to Vinh Long (V) 154 Banteay Srei Butterfly Tuol Sleng Museum of Cambodia 150, 158-9, visas 18, 536, 546 Centre (C) 205 Genocidal Crimes (C) 202, 240, 250, 274 Cambodia 284 Dao Tien Endangered 179, 182 border crossings to Laos 398, 399 Primate Species China 80 Centre (V) 133-4 Thailand 505-6 U border crossings to Doi Chiang Dao Wildlife Vietnam 172 Ubon Ratchathani (T) Laos 335, 348, 359, Sanctuary (T) 478 INDEX INDEX 452-5, 453 363, 387 volunteering 318-19, 354, Dong Natad (L) 365 547 Udong (C) 204 car travel 175-6 Elephant Nature Park Cambodia 284 Unesco Biosphere cell phones 171 (T) 469 T-Z Reserves climate 48 Laos 398-9 Elephant Valley Project 

Phu Quoc National Park consulates 168-9 Thailand 506 (C) 245  (V) 158 culture 165-6 Vietnam 172-3 Endangered Primate Unesco World Heritage current events 162-3 Rescue Center (V) Sites W 70-1 drinks 167 Hintang Archaeological War Remnants Museum Mekong Turtle electricity 168 Park (L) 334 (V) 134-6 Conservation Centre embassies 168-9 Hoi An (V) 106-7 Wat Pho (T) 405, 408-9 (C) 241 environment 167-8 Khao Yai National Park Wat Phra Kaew & Grand Phnom Tamao Wildlife food 48, 166-7, 169 (T) 450-1, 42 Palace (T) 404-5, Rescue Centre (C) 203-4 Luang Prabang (L) Hanoi 49-69 406-7 315-17 highlights 50-1, 50-1 Wat Rong Khun (T) 488 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary (C) 217 Phong Nha-Ke Bang history 163-5 Wat Xieng Thong (L) National Park (V) 12, insurance 169 317, 5, 9 Turtle Conservation Center (V) 71-2 87-9, 12 LGBTIQ travellers 170 water puppetry 166 Sukhothai Historical waterfalls wildlife-watching 42, see maps 170 also birdwatching Park (T) 482-3 mobile phones 171 Bou Sraa Waterfall Wat Phu (L) 376-8 (C) 245 windsurfing 40 money 170 women travellers 547 northern Vietnam 71-87 Chaa Ong (C) 247 V Cambodia 284-5 opening hours 170 Dambri Falls (V) 132 vaccinations 552-3 Laos 399 people 165-6 Datanla Falls (V) 129 Vang Vieng (L) 15, 309-15, Ka Tieng (C) 247-8 Thailand 506 , photography 170-1 310 15 Khon Pa Soi Falls (L) 381 Vietnam 173 vegans 121 public holidays 171 work 547 religion 165 Nam Tok Tat Khu Khana vegetarians 121 (L) 308 Laos 399 safety 171 Vieng Xai (L) 16, 335-6, 16 Pha Xai (L) 308 Vietnam 173 southeast coast 115-28 Vientiane (L) 289-304, Popokvil Falls (C) 271 292, 296 southwest highlands X 128-34 Tat Faek (L) 388 accommodation 294-5 Xieng Khuang Province (L) telephone services 171 Tat Kuang Si (L) 327-8 activities 289-93 328-36 time 171 Tat Leuk (L) 305, 308 courses 289-93 toilets 171 Tat Sae (L) 328 Y drinking 299-300 tourist information 171-2 Tat Somphamit (L) 382 yama 544 entertainment 300 travel seasons 48 Tat Xai (L) 308 yellow-cheeked crested festivals 294 gibbons (C) 247 travel to/from 173-4 Tatai Waterfall (C) 254 food 295-9 yoga travel within 174-7 Tayicseua (L) 386 nightlife 299-300 Luang Prabang (L) 319 visas 172 weather 18, 23-5, see also shopping 300 individual locations Siem Reap (C) 207-8 volunteering 172-3 sights 289 weaving classes 293, 325 wildlife 167-8 tourist information wildlife, see also individual Z 300-2 women travellers 173 species ziplining 41 tours 293-4 work 173 Cambodia 279 Chiang Mai (T) 469 travel to/from 302-4 viewpoints Laos 393 Flight of the Gibbon travel within 304 Bitexco Financial Tower Vietnam 167-8 (T) 469 (V) 137 Vietnam 45, 48-177 wildlife reserves, see Gibbon Experience Lotte Tower Observation accommodation 48, 168 also national parks (L) 351 Deck (V) 54 area codea 171 & reserves, nature Green Jungle Flight Pha Daeng Peak reserves (L) 317 ATMs 170 Viewpoint (L) 336 Ang Trapeng Thmor Huay Xai (L) 351 Phnom Sampeau (C) Reserve (C) 216 Tat Sae (L) 328 235 Map Pages 000 Bac Lieu Bird Sanctuary Vang Vieng (L) 312 Tram Ton Pass (V) 82 (V) 152 Photo Pages 000 575

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro/MRT/MTR station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Skytrain/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR WRITERS Phillip Tang Vietnam Phillip grew up on typically Australian pho and fish’n’chips. A degree in Chinese- and Latin-American cultures launched him into travel and writing about it for Lonely Planet’s Canada, China, Japan, Korea, Mexico, Peru and Vietnam guides. Follow Phillip Tang on instagram: @mrtangtangtang and twitter: @philliptang

Tim Bewer Laos After briefly holding fort behind a desk as a legislative assistant, Tim decided he didn’t have the ego to succeed in the political world (or the stomach to work around those who did). He quit his job at the capitol to backpack around West Africa, during which time he pondered what to do next. His answer was to write a travel guide to parks, forests, and wildlife areas of the gorgeous state of Wisconsin. He’s been a freelance travel writer and photographer ever since. Greg Bloom Cambodia Greg is a freelance writer, tour operator and travel planner based in Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Manila, Philippines. Greg began his writing in the late ’90s working as a journalist, then editor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly in Ukraine. As a freelance travel writer, he has contributed to 35 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. He also organises adventure trips in Cambodia and Palawan (Philippines) through his tour company, Bearcat Travel.

Austin Bush Thailand Austin originally went to Thailand in 1999 as part of a language study program hosted by Chiang Mai University. The lure of city life, employment and spicy food eventually led him to Bangkok. City life, employment and spicy food have managed to keep him there since, working as a writer and photographer. He’s con- tributed text and photos to more than 20 Lonely Planet titles including Bangkok, Food Lover’s Guide to the World and the World’s Best Street Food.

Nick Ray Cambodia, Laos A Londoner of sorts, Nick harks from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. He studied history and politics at Warwick University be- fore hitting the road for a life in travel and has worked on about 50 titles for Lonely Planet since his first foray in 1998. Based in Cambodia’s Phnom Penh with his wife Kulikar and two children, Julian and Belle, he covers countries in Southeast Asia, including Myanmar and Vietnam, with the occasional diversion to Africa.

Richard Waters Laos Richard is an award-winning journalist and works for the Independent, Sun- day Times and Telegraph. Laos is one of his favourite countries, his journeys there started in ’99 as a traveller, then as a journalist taking him into the still forbidden Xaisomboun Zone investigating the Hmong guerrilla survivors of the Secret War. This will be his 12th Lonely Planet book on Laos. To read more of his travel journal- ism visit: www.richardwaters.co.uk.

China Williams Thailand China has been writing about Thailand for Lonely Planet for more than a decade. She grew up in South Carolina, taught English in rural Thailand, learned the art of punctuation as an editor and commuted across oceans and continents to Southeast Asia. She now raises two children in Ellicott City, Maryland (USA), and tends a suburban woods filled with wildlife.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – August 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 030 7 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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