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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 565 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. Verlaine, Khun Buasone and Prapaporn Sompakdee OUR READERS provided great assistance, while Laura, Nick, Rich and Many thanks to the travellers who used the last the rest of the Lonely Planet team were a pleasure to edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful work with, as always. Finally, a special thanks to my advice and interesting anecdotes: wife, Suttawan, for help on this book and much more. Alessandra Furlan, Alexandra van den Broek, Allan Marsden, Ariane Bouf, Di Swanson, Ellis Gladstone, Greg Bloom Harmen Keuning, Helen Newman, Irmi Chamberlain, Big thanks to Lina in Siem Reap and to Nick for the Julia Wilber, Kelly Eberhard, Kennedy Newton, Kylie useful tips on the ever-changing Cambodian travel Tanabe, Lois Taylor, Mark Armitage, Matt Thwaite, scene. Back home, thanks to baby Callie, who just Noel Archbold, Paulo Gaeta, Rachelle Tews, Rebecca couldn’t wait until after my deadlines to arrive, but Deacon, Robert Mclaughlin, Sofie Compiet, Stefan provided moments of tenderness when she did. To her Kleinberger, Stephen Dunn, Susanna Stokes, Thao mama, Windi, thanks for handling the parenting duties Tran, Thomas Wiser, Zara Machado while I was drowning under an avalanche of work. And lastly, thanks to new big sister Anna, as always, for the WRITER THANKS humour and stress relief. Phillip Tang Austin Bush Thanks to local experts Thanh Hoài, Hiếu Trần, Henry Thanks to all the generous people on the ground in in Hoi An, Nam Phùng (Léon), Duy Khang, Blue, Vinh northern and northeastern Thailand, and to Jennifer Hiến, Tri, Jonathan Morana, Mark Zazula, Lê Ngọc Lâm Carey for her help and guidance. and, especially, Jay Luong for the adventures. Thanks to Iain Stewart and Laura Crawford. Extra appreciation to Nick Ray Géraldine Galvaing – how much did you enjoy muddy, A huge and heartfelt thanks to the people of Cambodia double-glazed Coconut 2.0? For Luu Tiến Lê, Giang and Laos, whose warmth and humour, stoicism and Hưng and those who came before. spirit make these countries happy yet humbling places to be. Biggest thanks are reserved for my wife, Kulikar Tim Bewer Sotho, as without her support and encouragement the A hearty kòrp jąi to the many people along the way who adventures would not be possible. To our children, answered my incessant questions or helped me out Julian and Belle, for signing up for some family adven- in other ways during this update. In particular, Nicolas tures in new look Vang Vieng, and mum and dad for Papon-Phalaphanh, Latanakone Keokhamphoui, Yves giving me a taste for travel from a young age. Thanks to 566 AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and BEHIND THE SCENES stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. fellow travellers and residents, friends and contacts Contributing Writer in Cambodia and Laos who have helped shaped my knowledge and experience in this country. Thanks Martin Stuart-Fox also to my co-authors for going the extra mile to Martin Stuart-Fox is Emeritus Professor of History at ensure this is a worthy new edition. Finally, thanks to the University of Queensland, Australia. He has writ- the Lonely Planet team who have worked on this title. ten multiple books and dozens of articles and book chapters on the politics and history of Laos. Richard Waters My special thanks to Elizabeth Vongsa, Adri Berger, Ivan Schulte, Harp, Saly Phimpinith, Dennis Ulstrup, Annabel and Josef, Agnes, Mr Vongdavone and Mar- co. Also thanks as usual to my extended family, the ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Lao people, from whom I seem to learn something Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson every trip. Finally, special thanks to Laura Crawford, BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of my long-suffering Destination Editor who keeps stoic the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- when my technical skills fail to join the 21st century. ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Illustrations p92-3, p220-221, 406-7 and 408-9 by China Williams Michael Weldon Thanks to Dora Whitaker and the LP editors who Cover photograph: Fresco detail, Wat Xieng Thong, keep me in their email contact list. More thanks to Luang Prabrang, Laos; Hemis/AWL ©. Austin Bush and the other LP authors who maintain the quality and expertise of these guides. And much gratitude to my Thailand friends and contacts: Pim, Nong, Jane and Ruengsang. Hugs to my family who keep me busy in my other life as a mum. Stewart. This guidebook was Lauren O’Connell, Charlotte THIS BOOK produced by the following: Orr, Gabrielle Stefanos, This 5th edition of Lonely Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Destination Editors Laura Williamson Planet’s Vietnam, Cambodia, Crawford, Dora Whitaker Laos & Northern Thailand Assisting Cartographer Product Editor Amanda guidebook was researched Michael Garrett Williamson and written by Phillip Tang, Cover Researcher Naomi Senior Cartographer Diana Tim Bewer, Greg Bloom, Austin Parker Bush, Nick Ray, Martin Stuart- Von Holdt Thanks to Bridget Blair, Book Designer Virginia Fox, Richard Waters and China Jennifer Carey, Kate Chapman, Moreno Williams. Grace Dobell, Bruce Evans, The previous two editions Assisting Editors Sarah Liz Heynes, Jane Grisman, were also written by Greg, Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Catherine Naghten, Martine Austin, Richard and China, Nigel Chin, Carly Hall, Power, Kirsten Rawlings, with Brett Atkinson, David Gabrielle Innes, Kellie Langdon, Kathryn Rowan, Wibowo Rusli, Eimer, Damian Harper and Iain Ali Lemer, Kate Morgan, Iain Stewart ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 567 Index C – Cambodia Park (T) 451 Ban Bo Luang (T) 493 Quy Nhon (V) 115 Ch –China Phimai Historical Park Ban Lung (C) 247-51, 249 Sihanoukville (C) 255 L –Laos (T) 450 Bangkok (T) 10, 404-36, Vietnam 101 T – Thailand Plain of Jars (L) 332-3, 404, 412-13, 416-17, Ben Tre (V) 153-4 V –Vietnam 332 422-3, 426-7, 10 bicycle travel 549 Prasat Muang Tam (T) 451 accommodation 414-15, Cambodia 285 A Si Satchanalai Historical 418-21 Laos 399-400 Park (T) 485 accommodation 539, 540, activities 412-13 Thailand 507 see also individual Sukhothai Historical Park drinking 425-9 Vietnam 174 locations (T) 482-3 entertainment 429-31 birdwatching 42, see Cambodia 178, 280 Terrace of Elephants festivals 414 also wildlife-watching Laos 288, 393-4 (C) 219 food 421-5 Ang Trapeng Thmor Terrace of the Leper King Thailand 401, 502 nightlife 425-9 Reserve (C) 216 (C) 219 Vietnam 48, 168 shopping 431 Bach Ma National Park Wat Phra Si Ratana activities 23-5, 34-42, see sights 404-12 (V) 101-2 also individual activities Mahathat (T) 485 tourist information 431-2 Bac Lieu (V) 152 Cambodia 280 Wat Phu Champasak (L) 377-8 travel to/from 433-4 Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary Laos 394-5 (C) 217 architecture travel within 434-6 air travel 549 Ream National Park Laos 391-2 Banteay Chhmar (C) 227-8 Cambodia 285 (C) 263 Vietnam 166 Banteay Srei (C) 226, 2 Laos 399 black-shanked doucs area codes 19 bargaining 541, 551 Thailand 506 (C) 247 Cambodia 283 Cambodia 282 Vietnam 174 boat tours, see boat trips Thailand 505 Laos 396 airlines 548 boat travel 549 Vietnam 171 Vietnam 170 airports 548 Cambodia 285-6 art galleries, see museums Battambang (C) 15, 228-35, Ang Nam Ngum (L) 308-9 Laos 400 & galleries 230, 15 Ang Trapeng Thmor Reserve Thailand 507 arts accommodation 229, (C) 216 Vietnam 174 Cambodia 278 231-2 Angkor National Museum boat trips 38, 17, 39 Laos 391-2 activities 229 (C) 204 Ben Tre (V) 153-4 Thailand 500-1 drinking 233 Angkor Thom (C) 219, 224 Halong Bay (V) 72 Vietnam 165-6 food 232-3 Angkor Wat (C) 218-19, My Tho (V) 152-3 Association of Southeast nightlife 233 222-3, see also temples Phnom Penh (C) 184 of Angkor Asian Nations (Asean) shopping 233-4 Phu Quoc (V) 159 aquariums 458 510-11 sights 228-9 Tham Kong Lor (L) 17, ATMs tourist information 234 archaeological sites 357-8 Cambodia 282 travel to/from 234-5 Banteay Chhmar (C) 227 Bokor Hill Station (C) 270-1 Forbidden Purple City Laos 396 travel within 235 Thailand 504 Bolaven
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  • Cambodian Journal of Natural History

    Cambodian Journal of Natural History

    Cambodian Journal of Natural History Aquatic Special Issue: Dragonfl ies and damselfl ies New crabs discovered as by-catch Seagrasses of Koh Rong Archipelago Koh Sdach Archipelago coral reef survey Zoning Cambodia’s fi rst Marine Fisheries Management Area August 2014 Vol. 2014 No. 1 Cambodian Journal of Natural History ISSN 2226–969X Editors Email: [email protected] • Dr Jenny C. Daltry, Senior Conservation Biologist, Fauna & Flora International. • Dr Neil M. Furey, Research Associate, Fauna & Flora International: Cambodia Programme. • Hang Chanthon, Former Vice-Rector, Royal University of Phnom Penh. • Dr Nicholas J. Souter, Project Manager, University Capacity Building Project, Fauna & Flora International: Cambodia Programme. International Editorial Board • Dr Stephen J. Browne, Fauna & Flora International, • Dr Sovanmoly Hul, Muséum National d’Histoire Singapore. Naturelle, Paris, France. • Dr Martin Fisher, Editor of Oryx—The International • Dr Andy L. Maxwell, World Wide Fund for Nature, Journal of Conservation, Cambridge, United Kingdom. Cambodia. • Dr L. Lee Grismer, La Sierra University, California, • Dr Jörg Menzel, University of Bonn, Germany. USA. • Dr Brad Pett itt , Murdoch University, Australia. • Dr Knud E. Heller, Nykøbing Falster Zoo, Denmark. • Dr Campbell O. Webb, Harvard University Herbaria, USA. Other peer reviewers for this volume • Dr Shane T. Ahyong, Australian Museum Research • Dr Kathe Jensen, Zoological Museum, Copenhagen, Institute, Sydney, Australia. Denmark. • Dr Alexander E. Balakirev, Severtsov’s Institute of • Dr Luke Leung, School of Agriculture and Food Ecology and Evolution of RAS, Moscow, Russia. Sciences, University of Queensland, Australia. • Jan-Willem van Bochove, UNEP World Conservation • Prof. Colin L. McLay, Canterbury University, Monitoring Centre, Cambridge, UK. Christchurch, New Zealand.