tokyo JULY 2012
weekenderJapan’s premier English language magazine Since 1970
PLUS HERE COMES KARUIZAWA MOUNTAIN ESCAPE THE SUMMER OF THE STARS Where are you HEADING? LONDON CALLING CELEBRATING THE UK, OLYMPIC STYLE BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS SHARP MINDS AND MBAS
INTERVIEWS Top UK Designers AGENDA M O V I E S Sir Paul Smith and Cath Kidston talk to All the biggest shows Previews of the best movies Weekender & events in July coming up this month
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JULY 2012 CONTENTS 22
HOT HOT SUMMER A few tips on how to make the most of
the scorching months to come.
12 18 24
PAUL SMITH Interview CATH KIDSTON KARUIZAWA This super-cool British designer is as We spoke to he Queen of floral print about John Lennon loved it, the Emperor stays down to earth as they come. her new cafe in Kanagawa. there... what more do you need?
11 Asia Daily Wire 20 Served to Perfection 44 Agenda A roundup of all the top APAC news of the The spirit of omotenashi and why service in Fuji Rock Festival and all the best Tokyo past month. Japan always seems so perfect. events this month.
14 Kohei Uchimura 32 MBA Special 47 Screen He’s going for London gold but, could he Educating business minds of the future The Dark Knight Rises, The Lady, Brave be the best gymnast of all time? and asking them tough questions. and United. 16 Olympic Sponsorship 38 Yotsuya Medical Cube 49 Back in the Day What does it take to support the Games? Medical advances you can rely on, in the A snapshot of Weekender from 1982. Putting a business slant on the Olympics. heart of Tokyo. JULY 2012
Publisher Bulbous Cell Media Group Chairman Ray Pedersen Executive Producer Asi Rinestine
Media Director Tomas Castro Editor Matthew Holmes Business Development Director Kotaro Toda Art Director Liam Ramshaw Senior Sales Executive Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa
Media Consultants Mary Rudow Matthew Hernon
Society Bill Hersey
Editorial Associates Annamarie Sasagawa, Vivian Morelli, Ayako Fujiwara, Christopher O’Keeffe, Mace Bertumen
IT Manager Nick Adams Development Manager Stephane Boudoux Finance & Admin Vika Maslyuk Web Development Amit Raj Baral DBA Iryna Sundutova
EST. Corky Alexander and Susan Scully, 1970
Published by Bulbous Cell Media Group FREE www.bulbouscell.com Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6846-5615 / (03) 6846-5616 (fax) [email protected] SPACE To have Tokyo Weekender delivered to you, please call (03) 6846-5615 or email: [email protected]
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Opinions expressed by Weekender contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher
On the cover: Image courtesy of Lexus
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Apology: Tokyo Weekender wishes to apologise to Wipro for including certain information in an article that appeared in our June magazine (p. 40) that could potentially have been misconstrued to imply meanings other than those originally intended by our journalist.
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ASIA DAILY WIRE | NEWS | 11
Coca-Cola to invest in Myanmar ASIA DAILY Coca-Cola is planning to open business operations in Myanmar, and will make “significant” WIRE investments in the country over the next five years, reports the Financial Times. Despite escalating sectarian violence and mixed signals from the Obama administration, who have not given any official indications on business as yet, Coke – along with General Electric and Caterpillar – saw the new government’s liberalization efforts as a go signal.
Singapore bans unemployed from casinos Singapore will ban its citizens, particularly low- income and unemployed people, from casinos Your go-to place for APAC news in an effort to curb gambling and its impact on sia Daily Wire is your go-to place for all the latest news from across society. The Singaporean government already bans people who have declared bankruptcy the Asia Pacific region. Covering business, culture, entertainment, and recipients of long-term government sports and breaking news, Asia Daily Wire is updated round the clock financial aid. There has been widespread in real time and picks and chooses the best headlines from sources gambling addiction in the country but this acrossA Asia—doing all the hard work for you. Here is a roundup of some of the move has its opponents, particularly those ADW Editor’s picks from the past month... who feel it is simply ignoring the problem and not getting at its roots. Fukushima China further seafood back isolates Tibet N. Korea on market China has threatens attacks Octopus and decided to ban on S. Korean whelk were foreigners from news among the traveling to Tibet. North Korea has first seafood sold in the market after China sent troops to Lhasa to maintain warned that artillery being tested for radioactive cesium order and prevent further protests of any is aimed at the specific coordinates of a on at market on June 24, while others, form from taking place. A US government number of South Korean news agencies and such as flounder and sea bass are not report on human rights stated that there that it would readily attack if media insults yet approved for sale. The government were “extrajudicial killings, torture, continue, an official statement reported by is presently testing for cesium and arbitrary arrests, extrajudicial detentions, the Korean Central News Agency said. They radioactive iodine in crabs and other and house arrests” in Tibet last year. are accusations of a children’s festival being kinds of fish, hoping to get the fishing Meanwhile, The Dalai Lama has claimed no more than a political show. industry moving again. Surprisingly for that the Chinese government was plotting some, the fish sold out by 3 p.m. to assassinate him. Taiwan Clears China Whale meat Pakistan “a Landmines demand bigger threat China-friendly drops in than Iran” Taiwan President Japan The West’s Ma Ying-jeou has The Institute “obsession” with expressed plans to boost ties with China of Cetacean Iran’s nuclear through removing, over the next six months, Research, which is responsible for the program could leave more room for landmines that served as barriers against organization of Japan’s whaling, sold only Pakistan to get away with its own, the Wall Chinese communist forces, AFP reports. 25% of 1,200 tons of whale meat last year, Street Journal is reporting. The West’s Two Taiwan-controlled islands off the the rest failing to find a buyer at auction, pursuit of Tehran’s nuclear program southeastern coast of Xiamen province have AFP reports. Traders are blaming anti- leaves Pakistan’s increasing production been out-of-bounds due to the landmines whaling activists for the “disappointing” of nuclear weapons and technology, since the 1950s, after the Chinese Civil War auction results, saying that consumers which it supplies to North Korea, that separated Taiwan from the mainland. are intimidated into avoiding the Libya and Iran itself, unchecked. The cetacean meat. Anti-whaling activists Journal reported that the West may be again accuse Japan of masking their concentrating on Iran exactly because commercial whaling operation behind Tehran’s nuclear program is in its infancy For all the big news of 2012 updated live, the guise of scientific research. and can still be stopped. visit: www.asiadailywire.com Photo by Alan Aboud business and spends almost three quarters of the year traveling the world, promoting his brand and looking for new ideas and projects.
One of his most recent has been designing stamps for the London Olympics. In a specially designed book made to commemorate their release, he writes, “Of course, the Olympics are always special but this year, exceptionally so as they are in my home city of London.” Sport is close to CUTS A DASH Sir Paul’s heart, he says, “as a teenager, my dream was to be a professional cyclist.” Weekender chats with the British design icon in Tokyo The stamps “sold like crazy” at his shops around the world. He enjoyed doing it but by Matthew Hernon money and then going home as quickly admits it was a “big challenge, particularly as possible. We approached it a little trying to please the serious collectors.” e has designed clothes more humbly than that, really embracing for some of the world’s the culture and I think that is why it has Stepping out of his comfort zone, though, is biggest stars, received a worked so well for us.” something he clearly relishes. When asked knighthood for his services by Tomas Alfredson to help out with the toH the fashion industry and played an Sir Paul has time for everyone and seems British movie, Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy, he important role in the Oscar nominated so at ease in Japan, “I always enjoy jumped at the chance. movie, ‘Tinker, Tailor, Soldier, Spy,’ coming here. I like the people and the yet what really struck Weekender on way they dress. Thirty years ago it was meeting Sir Paul Smith was how normal all very classical but they are much more “I just like people. I he was, enjoying his cup of tea and fashionable now. Sometimes the way they chocolate; no airs or graces, just a down- put clothes together can seem eccentric don’t care if you’re to-earth guy from Nottingham. to the European eye, but I think it’s great that self expression a road sweeper or “I just like people. I don’t can come through such a care if you’re a road harmless route.” the Prime Minister.” sweeper or the Prime Minister. Underneath it Paul Smith’s love-affair all, we’re the same. Even with the country shows “It was my job to give advice on the mood the Queen goes to the no sign of diminishing. of the film. I suggested a monochrome style loo, well at least I think Following last year’s with traditional, bleak buildings, mixed in she does!” This attitude is disaster he was soon on with highlights of colour. I chose red because reflected in the clothes his the plane to Tokyo in order I think it represents England well; double- company makes. “We cater to to hug his staff and give them decker buses, post boxes, that kind of thing. both the eccentric and business some reassuring words. The I got goosebumps when I saw the movie and style,” says Smith, “and my collections organizers of Tokyo Fashion Week realized he had taken notice of all I had said, are so varied that you could be a 14 year were so impressed by his actions that particularly as we’d only met three times!” old boy or a 70 year old man and still find they invited him over to stage a show last something you like at Paul Smith.” November. After working with the Red Smith also dressed the film’s stars, Cross here, he called it ‘I Love Japan.’ including good friend Gary Oldman. The Paul Smith brand has become a Tony Blair and David Cameron have both global phenomenon, though it is in Japan The feeling seems mutual. As the worn Paul Smith. So too, has Manchester that it has enjoyed perhaps its greatest biggest selling European designer United manager, Sir Alex Ferguson, success. It currently has more than 200 in Japan, he is highly regarded who Smith says he has had the shops here, compared to just 15 in the UK. and was even on the guestlist for pleasure of seeing in his underwear. Sir Paul originally came in 1982 and has a supper at Buckingham Palace been a regular visitor ever since. He was for Emperor Akihito in May, after Sir Paul Smith takes just as much “fascinated by the place” back then and the pair had spoken at an official pleasure seeing a teenager or a believes the fact that he saw it as being lunch. housewife wear his clothes as he more than simply a cash cow explains the does a celebrity. Of course he company’s longevity in Japan. Now aged 66, it would be easy for enjoys the fame and money that “A lot of designers were invited to Japan Paul to take a back seat approach comes with being a top designer during the bubble economy, but the and enjoy all the adulation. But but his main motivation is to majority of them were not in it for the that’s not his style. He takes a “enjoy life and continue making long haul. It was a case of earning lots of very hands on approach to the nice clothes for as many people as possible.
Our philosophy is different to many other brands. We are real and our feet are firmly on the ground. I think in a world of falseness, sound-bites and commercial nonsense, people can appreciate our honesty.” 14 | FEATURE | LONDON CALLING
while 5th placed John Orozco, from the US, apparently “couldn’t find the words to describe him,” yet, did manage “incredible” and “amazing.”
Uchimura “appreciates the compliments,” GOLDEN from his rivals, but he refutes the claim that he is “unbeatable,” particularly in a sport where even the shortest lapse in concentration can prove so costly. Four BOY years ago in Beijing he scored the highest marks on the floor and produced a stunning performance on the high bar routine, yet two falls on the pommel horse meant he had to settle for second place, behind Yang Wei of China, who has now retired. His routines in AA competitions have been almost flawless since but he knows there is no room for complacency. Staying mentally strong is the key to his success.
“I used to train with former Olympic gold Kohei medalist, Naoya Tsukahara,” says Uchimura. “He taught me that gymnasts are always fighting with themselves, rather than others. This message has stuck with me ever since.”
Uchimura Uchimura watched on TV as Tsukahara led e has been called ‘the Uchimura’s dramatic fall on the high bar Japan to team victory at the 2004 Athens greatest gymnast of all- competition cost them the gold medal. He Games and dreamed of one day following in time.’ It’s a big claim but was human, after all. He is desperate to his footsteps. He couldn’t quite manage it in Kohei Uchimura, at just 23, make amends for that slip at the London Beijing, but feels London could be the time Hconsistently justifies his praise with Games by helping his country regain the for him and his teammates to shine. Despite multiple wins and world titles. He goes gold that they won in Athens in 2004. the fact that he will be expected to provide a in to this summer’s Olympics as the red near perfect performance, he doesn’t seem hot favourite in the AA (all-around) Uchimura leads a strong squad going in to be feeling the pressure. His spirits are event. He has been so dominant over the to the Games, including high as he gears up for what could be the past few years that many of his rivals brothers, Yusuke and defining competition of his career. have given up hope of beating him. For Kazuhito Tanaka, the man himself though, individual Ryohei Kato and “I am really excited about going success will mean nothing if his team Koji Yamamuro. to London. I am particularly fails to deliver in London. They are expected looking forward to trying to be one of the many kinds of delicious “My priority is always the team. I’m not main contenders food.” he says, although thinking about the AA event at all,” he tells but know China will, once whether British fare will Weekender. “After the Beijing Olympics again, be difficult to beat. On top go down well with the I started training for victory with my of that countries like America, coach and nutritionists’ teammates, I really want to win that title.” Russia, Ukraine and Romania will routine remains to provide tough opposition. It is a be seen. “While I am In the individual category, Uchimura very open field: Uchimura says that, there I would also like hasn’t lost an event since since the 2008 on July 30, “any country can win.” to watch some other Games; it’s quite a streak. With his team sports. Of course I am however, he has yet to taste a major The result of the AA final on August interested in seeing victory. They have finished runners-up 1 is likely to be far more predictable the athletics 100m behind China in the last three World though. Anything less than a gold final and the 100m Championships medal for Uchimura would be and 200m breaststroke and in 2011 considered a major upset. He swimming finals, which has simply wiped the floor with should include Kosuke the opposition in recent times, Kitajima.” claiming an unprecedented three consecutive world titles. He is clearly determined to He won the last one, his enjoy himself while he’s in score the sum of points London but, when it comes to the in two categories, by serious business, few athletes will
an incredible 3.101 be as well prepared as the gymnast Photo by Yuki Murata points, with the known as ‘Superman’. He has worked runner-up, Philipp all his life to be the best at his sport and Boy of Germany, should be too strong for the rest in the describing him as AA. To achieve his ultimate dream of a a “machine who team gold, though, he will also need Kato, nobody can beat,” Yamamura and the Tanaka brothers to be at the top of their game.
16 | FEATURE | LONDON CALLING
infrastructure. But it is more than just BEYOND LIMITS being a sponsor, we hope. We can bring our experience and expertise. There The ins and outs of Olympic sponsorship will be 13,500 desktops, 13,000 monitors, 3,000 notebooks and almost 1,000 servers deployed to serve venues, the media and the Athlete’s Villages along with 350 hat is so magnetic The head of Olympic sponsorship engineers and technicians.” about the Olympics that for ACER, the Taiwanese hardware
companies from around and computer giant, tells us that the Particular athletes to watch, for Acer, the world are drawn to opportunity is too good too miss. Anton include ‘Sunrise Japan’. The name given theW Games? The events are so much Mitsyuk, speaking from Italy, said that to the Japan women’s team (remember more than simply a celebration of “it’s rewarding to be one of the top global what the name “nadeshiko” did for the sporting excellence, it is a branding brands able to go to the Olympics. The ladies football stars in 2011?) who have haven for some of the biggest busineses composite logo, for one thing, has a very been given a local campaign by Acer: the in the world. big value to us. It shows the message of theme is “Surprise Yourself.” Embodying trust in our image and our products.” what could as easily be an either Olympian The most well-known names from all or business philosophy, Mitsyuk tells industries get involved somehow; be they Explaining the pressure that us even the global tagline the from a pharmaceutical, financial, food and comes with the role, and company is using, ‘Explore drink or electronics and manufacturing illustrating the parallels Beyond Limits’, can be background, they all want a piece of with sport, Mitsyuk explained in sporting Olympic pie. says, “this is a zero- terms. He speaks tolerance-for-error enthusiastically At the end of this month, all eyes will be on environment. If about even the more London and the likes of Coca Cola, BMW, our company can technical aspects McDonalds and Visa will be prominent perform here, of his company’s amongst the logos emblazoned on our we can show involvement, but TV screens and, indeed, around the city that we are ready our conversation itself. As the likes of Usain Bolt sprint for any of the barely strays from towards the finishing line, sporting history most challenging his excitement for the could be made. Hundreds of athletes will projects.” Games. capture the imagination of the crowds at the stadiums, velodromes, pools and their It’s not only about “There are modern day homes, wherever they are in the world. increasing brand awareness explorers who explore their Records will be broken. and trust in the products. ACER world,” Mitsyuk says, “they explore their is the fourth largest PC manufacturer capabilities and go ‘beyond limits’. We Marketing experts may believe that there in the world and has been an Olympic think athletes are a great example of this is no better time to show off your logo but Worldwide Partner since before the spirit - every day, they are searching for does the exposure justify the effort? Vancouver Games in 2010. new approaches to training to go above From the consumer’s point and beyond.” of view, Acer is releasing
special versions of its V3- Come the end of July, after years of 571 laptop and in Europe preparation and work with the organizing an Iconia Tab, each with committees – it’s not only at the Games the famous five rings. themselves but, Mitsyuk explains, work So what will their role with the Olympic Movement supporting be in London? local committees that they get involved -
he says it won’t all be business. Sport, of Mitsyuk says, course, will take centre stage. “well, for Acer,
the fundamental Mitsyuk will be ensuring that Acer aspect is building engineers and equipment serve the Games and maintaining well, and that his marketing activation a computer duties are taken care of but he is looking forward to catching a few events from up close. The tennis at Wimbledon will be a “special” moment, for Mitsyuk. He is a big basketball fan, too, but jokes, “I think we are all dreaming of the beach volleyball!”
エイサーは、2012年ロンドンオリンピックのオフィシャルワールドワイドパートナーです。
日本 エイサー株 式 会 社 www.acer.co.jp/ajc
Weekender talks with the inimitable British designer
all generations - though particularly the from interior designer Nicky Haslam, she 30-somethings - have really taken to her decided to open her first shop in Notting polka-dot and floral designs. Licensed to Hill in 1993. Sanei International, there are currently around 20 Cath Kidston stores in the “Nicky was a real inspiration to me. country, but she is looking to more than Before I arrived in his studio I had only double that over the next few years. worked in other people’s shops but he was very supportive of me and gave me “Japan has had a long association with my tremendous encouragement to design. He business, which is now nearly 20 years is the person I credit with giving me the old - Japanese customers came to my first confidence to start my own business.” ever shop from the very early days. We have always grown our Japanese stores organically, looking at various locations across the country. Around 50 stores by Matthew Hernon seems to be right but this will be a gradual process, based on demand.” esponsible for some of the most
instantly recognizable product The brand has become so big here lines to come out of Great that Kidston decided Japan would be Britain in the past two decades, the ideal country to launch her first CathR Kidston’s global empire is always cafe. Located in Tsujido-Shonan, in expanding at a rapid rate. The ‘new Kanagawa, it serves up a traditional Laura Ashley’, who in the early nineties English menu, including a cream tea described her business as a “glorified set, scones and an English breakfast. junk shop,” currently has more than 75 Naturally, the décor is cute and stores worldwide, including over 30 in colourful, while the plates and cups are Asia. Japan, in particular, has become an all original Cath designs. increasingly important market for her company in recent times and Kidston is “I have always dreamed of having a certain that there is a lot more potential café and was thrilled that we had the for growth here. opportunity to create one in Shonan,”
she says. It’s great to be near the sea, for Operating without debt, progress was “I believe there is a great synergy Kidston. “It is the ideal location and we are initially steady rather than spectacular. between England and Japan,” Kidston tells delighted with the concept. It was exciting Things have certainly changed in recent Weekender. “Both countries very much for me that the first Cath’s Café opened in years however, with sales exploding. Cath appreciate tradition and all the quirky Japan and as it has been so popular we are Kidston ended the financial year 2011 details that come with it. We also both have now planning to take the idea over to the with a turnover of 69 million pounds, a lively sense of happiness, cuteness and UK!” compared with just 12 million five years humour; qualities I always have in mind ago, an incredible increase at a time when working on our product ranges. Kidston is clearly very confident about the when many retailers have suffered losses Perhaps that is why we have built up such a future of the company as it approaches due of the financial crisis and consumer sound Japanese customer base.” its 20th anniversary, though that hasn’t uncertainties. Her success hasn’t just
always been the case. She was originally been confined to the UK and Japan. She It was music that first brought her out reluctant to start her also has shops in Korea, Thailand and here back in the eighties. Her husband, own business but, Taiwan, while she is hopeful of opening Hugh Padgham, is one of the UK’s most after some some further outlets in China and Hong Kong. famous record producers (he has worked encouraging She is unlikely to stop there though as with Paul McCartney and The Police) and words her empire continues to grow. In this age Kidston would often accompany him on of economic uncertainty, it would seem his business trips to the Far East. She fell that, for the queen of the floral print, the in love with the place back then and future is rosy. she now sees it as being “almost like a second home,” which she visits once or twice a year. “I have huge admiration for Japan and always find my visits inspirational.”
She is treated as a massive celebrity when in Japan, which is hardly surprising considering how popular her goods have become. Japanese ladies, mainly, from LONDON CALLING | FEATURE | 19
HARRYSOFLONDON.COM
www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2012 20 | BUSINESS | omotenashi
The discipline required to serve in such places, to serve such people, is in a different league. SERVED TO PERFECTION All of the company’s managers took part in an overnight course at the Ritz-Carlton Omotenashi - The Japanese art of impeccable service hotel in Osaka, which had been ranked number one for customer satisfaction in the owing down, literally, to your needs of the guest in advance and offers prestigious Nikkei Business Survey for six every need and desire, service a service that guests don’t expect. They consecutive years. Bprofessionals in Japan are the should not wait for instructions.” first thing many foreign visitors notice. Some of us are even disconcerted – what When Toyota decided to bring its Lexus “The host anticipates did we do to deserve this? brand back from the US and launch at ‘home’ in Japan in 2005, executives sought the needs of the guest Enter any department store, restaurant, something special that they hoped would airport, car dealership or office and your give staff an edge. In the US, things had in advance and offers “host” will act with complete deference. been easy. “I had heard that in the USA, It’s as if they have completely given Car Dealerships were said to be the least a service that guests themselves over to you, the embodiment of desirable place to go, behind dentists,” being ‘at your service’. says Toyoshita Abe, Area Brand Manager don’t expect” of Lexus Japan Sales & Marketing, “I think How did it get to be like this? How did that’s due to their terrible service.” it stay like this? In an advancing They learned and practiced the intricacies business world, often obsessed Frustrated, though, with of the Japanese tea ceremony. They received with economies of scale, what it saw as a lack of classes from the likes of Ogasawara Ryu with technological thinking ability to distinguish itself Reihou, a 600 year old school of etiquette often moving service to the in a Japanese market which specialises in “beautifying daily automatic – how is Japan crowded with companies behaviour,” using teachings passed through keeping hold of tradition? doing things right for the family with little change since the 1300s. the customers, Abe’s Some companies look colleagues looked to Among the new Lexus rules of etiquette – as back as well as forward. omotenashi. well as serving tea (and coffee) in the most They look to Japan’s ancient traditional way possible - is the so called philosophy of omotenashi – While even high street stores “warriors waiting position”. This, the act the ‘selfless desire to take care of and other car companies would be of leaning between five and ten degrees others’ – and find something that seen by many as doing just fine – forward when a customer is looking at a may explain just how they can create a better than fine for many Westerners - the car, is not the only Samurai inspired detail. relationship between service giver and plan was to learn from the hospitality Apparently, a salesman will point with ‘guest’ that is completely non-dominant. of the best luxury restaurants, the best five fingers to the handle of a car before Muneyuki Joraku, an omotenashi manner schools, the best hotels, the best opening it, with both hands, right before researcher who works for the Mandarin department stores and even those who left, sliding the handle gracefully in the way Oriental says that “the host anticipates the deal with royalty and the Imperial family. a screen door would have been opened in the 13th century. Even the closed mouth smile, known in some marketing circles as the “Lexus face”, is part of the regimented routine of what a 2007 Wall Street Journal piece called ‘The Samurai Sell’.
Omotenashi is here to stay, so hopefully we can all look on those serving us with a new found respect, having somewhat demystified quite the level of training they have gone through to hone their craft.
JULY 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com Karuizawa SPECIAL | TRAVEL | 21
www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2012 Here Comes the Summer by Annamarie Sasagawa and Vivian Morelli name, apparently, stems from the story of toe prints are all over the runways and a local priest, led to the island by a white hopefully out on the streets; the keyword ainy season is coming to an end, monkey), the sand is grey and grainy, to keep in mind is overlay. Leather over which means heat, humidity perfect for sandcastles. Rent a lace, lace over sequins, plastic over and stifling city air. Somehow, barbecue and make sure to try everything. The twenties are also summer in Japan should not the local brew, Sarushima experiencing a revival, with haveR to mean locking yourself in with the Beer; or even climb up to palettes of white, gold and air-con blasting. Our city has lots to offer, the old WWII artillery metallics. Neon nails, mint in the summer especially, and it’s possible positions for a great view accents, sun-kissed glow, to escape the mugginess and survive the of the bay. To get there: rose lips and braided hair summer without going too far. Keihin Kyuko Line to are 2012 musts. Yokosuka, then ferry to Sand in your hair: Sarushima. From the cool box: At some of the beaches around Tokyo, The borderline toxic you won’t even be able to put your Cool kids: combination of highly towel down but, there is always If you’re spending time concentrated syrup and shaved a party to be had. If having with little ones this summer ice, kakigori, will always be a favourite perhaps one too many drinks and don’t fancy going near of some, but why not try a tapioca tea alongside half of Shibuya the sea, pay a visit to one this summer? Hailing from Taiwan, it in the scorching sun is for of Tokyo’s water parks - is popping up all over Tokyo. It’s often you, you have options. Just but beware: these places dubbed ‘pearl tea’ due to the tapioca balls watch where you step, those get seriously crowded! your jumbo straw will encounter at the lifeguards police the beach bottom of the drink; try a classic milk tea with an iron fist - and a Many public parks across with coloured tapioca for true effect but pretty noisy Tannoy! the city open their jyabu- even this could be an ‘acquired taste’ – or jyabu ponds (kids’ splash and indeed texture... Hayama Isshiki is the Emperor’s paddling pools) every summer. beach of choice; he even has a winter Rishi-no-Mori park, in Meguro Ward, A few centuries ago, an enterprising eel holiday home there. It’s popular for a former research forest turned restaurant owner in Tokyo began windsurfing and kayaking and you can often public park, opens its splash touting the energizing effects of catch live music on the waterfront. To get pond in July and August eating the slithery creatures in there: Take the JR Shonan-Shinjuku Line to from 10am to 3pm. Showa summer. Soon enough, he had Zushi and change on to a Keikyu Bus. Kinen Park in Tachikawa managed to establish the also has a large water tradition of eating eel on a Onjuku boasts some of the whitest of sand play plaza as well as a certain day every year. in the area and could just be the best option barbecue area, rental in Chiba prefecture. Rent a bike and ride bikes, a bird sanctuary That day, douyou ushi no hi, through town but make sure you stop to and a nature walk. falls this year on July 27th. try the town’s specialties, spiny lobster and It may simply have been a abalone. Also, check out the fully kitted Get your kit on: marketing masterstroke but out ‘surfers’, bobbing around in Enjoying summer is not there could actually be something the ‘swell’... To get there: Take all about where you go; in the tradition: eel is rich in vitamin B1, the JR Sobu Line to Chiba and think about what you wear easily lost through sweating. Change to JR Sotobo Line to too and you will enjoy the Onjuku Station. season in style. Stay cool Maybe grab some somen wheat noodles with lightweight fabrics served with a cold dipping sauce – Zushi may sometimes such as linen and natural another food traditionally thought to be seem like it brings together blends like cotton and cooling. Wash it down with a glass of the entire youth culture of pure silk, whilst keeping hiyashi ame, a summer drink made with Shibuya 109 on a beach - and up with the style trends iced black tea, sugar and ginger. this one is more for partying from the runways for summer than relaxation by the sea. To get 2012: Enjoy the heat, embrace the summer there: Take the JR Shonan-Shinjuku and keep your spirits up. Look around Line to Zushi. For women, summer attire is very you – Tokyo is resplendent in this season feminine this year - think florals, candy and there are so many exciting things to ‘Sarushima’ literally means Monkey Island. pastel hues, sheer and lace - as opposed do. Don’t just wish away the season, get Although there are no monkeys in sight (the to last summer’s boyish looks. Head-to- out there!
JULY 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2012 24 | TRAVEL | Karuizawa SPECIAL
all you need is karuizawa
By Matthew Hernon is around 10km. It is a 22 minute bus ride from Naka- Karuizawa station to Mine-no-chaya and from there the t was Karuizawa’s cool climate that first attracted trail leads downhill through the forest towards Shiraito Alexander Croft Shaw to the town back in 1888. Falls (approx 70mins). Located roughly 1,000 metres above sea level, Karuizawa on the plateau of Mt. Asama, the British born, The name shiraito means ‘white strings’; and with the Tokyo Canadian missionary discovered a place of natural water flowing like threads of white silk over the rock face, beautyI that was significantly cooler than Japan’s capital. you can see why. Three metres tall, the falls are spread He spread the word to his fellow missionaries as well as over a 70 metre wide arch; it really is a stunning view. If other prominent foreigners and Karuizawa soon became you can’t face the hike, a bus takes roughly 30 minutes well known as the ideal spot to get away from the heat from Karuizawa station. How to get there: and humidity of Tokyo - and that is still true today. Take a break and enjoy the crisp air and gorgeous green Continuing the descent along the river, our next stop was By Train surroundings of this picturesque mountain resort. at the Ryugaeshi falls, about 90 minutes walk away. While 65-80mins by Nagano the water drops delicately at Shiraito, here it gushes out a Shinkansen from For the Outdoor Type: quite pace. They are two hugely contrasting views, both Tokyo Station Just a little over an hour away from Tokyo on the bullet spectacular. train, Karuizawa is an idyllic setting to stroll or cycle By Car around while taking in the sights. The temperature Just 10-15 minutes away from Ryugaeshi falls, you can stop 2-3 hour drive from (averaging around 25 degrees Celsius in the summer) off and recharge your batteries with a bath at the therapeutic Tokyo on the makes it possible to do both without getting too tired or Kose Onsen before walking around 70 minutes onwards to Jo-shin-etsu Highway sweaty! the final destination, Old Mikasa Hotel. An elegant, western style wooden hotel that was built during the Meiji period by One of the highlights of our trip was a hike through the Japanese architects and carpenters, it became a popular place woods. With many different kinds of birds chirping to stay for cultural figures and intellects alike. After ceasing away, giant trees overhead and carpet of lush moss, it operations in 1970, Mikasa opened up to the public as a was a very pleasant walk. A recommended trail is from museum in 1983 and it is currently one of Japan’s designated Mine-no-chaya (mountaintop tea house) to Mikasa, which important cultural assets.
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“Take a break and enjoy the crisp air and gorgeous green surroundings of this picturesque mountain resort”
The hike should take around four hours but, if you think that might be too much for you, the Usui Pass Yuranhodo trail is a lot gentler. It lasts around 90 minutes and arrives at a platform with fantastic views of Mt. Asama and down to Karuizawa. Or, you could rent a bicycle from one of the many shops in front of either Karuizawa or Naka-Karuizawa stations. at both the summer and winter Olympics Terrace is a good option. Just a short – equestrian and curling, respectively - distance from the Hoshinoya Resort For the Romantics: Karuizawa is known throughout Japan for (featured on p.29), you can do a little As well as being known for it’s natural it’s excellent sports facilities. There are a shopping and eat lunch surrounded beauty, Karuizawa is regarded as a romantic number of riding clubs, tennis courts and by spring elms, while listening to the hot-spot in Japan, with some believing luscious green golf courses in the area. For soothing sound of the river below. that there is a certain something powerful when it gets colder, curling is an interesting in the air. Princess Michiko became the option, while the ski slopes open between Best of the Rest: first commoner to marry into the Imperial mid-October and early spring. Karuizawa is known as the ‘City of family, after meeting now Emperor Akihito Churches’ in Japan. The influence that at a tennis court in the town. John Lennon For the Shopper: Priest Alexander Croft Shaw had on the and Yoko Ono saw it as the perfect romantic Before heading home after a nice relaxing Town is easy to see. Lying deep in the retreat, visiting there every summer trip, it is always a nice idea to get some woods, his statue stands at the front of between 1976 and 1979. It is also the setting souvenirs, an especially popular ‘pastime’ the Shaw Memorial Chapel, which is the for Minae Mizumura’s novel, Honkaku here in Japan. Karuizawa is famous for oldest church in the area. Also, nearby is Shosetsu, a much acclaimed retelling of jam, as it has varieties that cannot be St. Paul’s Catholic Church, a distinctive Wuthering Heights. found elsewhere. The best place to look is structure - designed by American at Kyu-Karuizawa Ginza Shopping Street, architect Antonin Raymond - that is often Other places that may be of interest to which has a large number of homemade described as the symbol of Karuizawa. couples are Sasayaki no Komichi, popularly jam stores as well as craft shops, boutiques, known as ‘lovers’ path’ and Kofuku no Tani cafes and bakeries. It is a charming, Other highlights of the town include (Happy Valley). With so many lakes, rivers, old fashioned shopping area where the Yacho no Mori, a wild bird sanctuary trees and wildlife, the whole town has a produce is, on the whole, locally made. where you can see over 80 species of romantic feel to it. birds and Lake Shiozawa, an ideal spot Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza is for boating in the summer and skating in Kumoba pond, also known as ‘Swan Lake’ the complete opposite. It is a huge mall, the winter. There is a wide selection of because of the birds that visit in winter, is a boasting around 200 stores, including museums and hot springs, so you should particularly popular place for lovebirds to many luxury foreign brands like Burberry, never get bored; for anyone looking to visit. A serene environment where people Paul Smith and Gucci. Fashion is the main take a short break away from Tokyo but can stroll around during any season, it is draw bringing customers to the Plaza, but not looking to venture too far, Karuizawa particularly beautiful in autumn, when the there is also an Imax cinema, a bowling might just be the ideal location. leaves change colour. It truly is an amazing alley and a wide selection of restaurants. sight, particularly when reflected in the The area around Karuizawa station can the sparkling crystal surface of the water. get pretty crowded in the summer so for Emperor Akihito is known to be a regular a more relaxing atmosphere, Harunire visitor to this particular spot.
For the Sports Enthusiast: All that talk of romance doesn’t mean TRAVELlING IN STYLE WITH BMW Karuizawa is solely a place for couples Weekender’s trip to Karuizawa was powered by to enjoy the countryside. There are a the new BMW 6 Series. Our writer drove a courtesy variety of activities to keep all manner of BMW from Tokyo to Nagano prefecture. Here in people entertained throughout the year, Japan, this new 640i Gran Coupe is available now particularly sports enthusiasts. The only with the 650i Gran Coupe following in October. town in the world to have hosted an event www.tokyoweekender.com JULY 2012 ne of the most iconic buildings in Karuizawa, Mampei hotel is a comfortable place at which to stay, with friendly staff and a delicious selection of food. Visitors will find, though, that this isO so much more than simply a hotel. You only have to Mampei look at the building to see that it is a place of historical importance and you can really feel that when you enter through the wooden arch and into the main building.
Opened in 1894, but with origins said to go back as far as 1764, Mampei was one of Japan’s first Western style hotels Hotel and it quickly earned a reputation as the best. Here was a place where guests could relax in the knowledge that they History amongst the Hills would be treated like royalty. The hotel has attracted many prominent visitors, both from Japan and abroad. Celebrities and luminaries from the political world have long favoured Mampei for its traditional style and reputation, visiting all- year round. JULY 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com Karuizawa | TRAVEL | 27
“We will always go that extra yard for our guests and I think that is why we have the reputation we have”
room, starting with a crab meat salad. Made with seasonal vegetables, it was a delightfully refreshing start to the meal. That was followed by a cold tomato soup, before we moved on to the fish. Rainbow trout was pan-fried in butter, flavored with soy sauce and served with hot, seasonal vegetables. Cooked to perfection, the succulent texture of the trout was of such high quality it felt like it was melting in my mouth. For the meat dish we went with Hokkaido beef, stewed in red wine, before finishing with a wonderfully light but sharp sherbet for dessert.
After lunch it was time to take a look at some of the room options that Mampei Hotel provides. There are four types to choose from, all varying in size and style. The Alps-twin rooms, with beautiful freestanding clawfoot bathtubs, tend to be the most popular with guests as they have a truly classical look. The Usui-twin rooms, meanwhile, have a more modern feel yet still manage to look rather ‘retro’. Prices for both range between 17,000 and 30,000 yen per person per night. The more simple Atago-twin rooms offer a slightly cheaper alternative, while the Bekkan rooms were Other famous guests and historical designed for groups and families searching moments that have taken place at for something which will please the whole the hotel are displayed in the gallery, crowd. including a shot of former Japanese Prime Minister, Kakuei Tanaka and the then US It is advisable to book as soon as you can, The most famous visitor was undoubtedly Presidential Assistant, Henry Kissinger, especially if you are planning to go in John Lennon, who stayed with his wife who had a meeting in the Sakura room. the summer. Many guests return year in Yoko Ono and son Sean every summer It is definitely worth having look here year out, reserving their room a year in between 1976 and 1979. Proud reminders during your stay. advance, with regulars giving the place a of his time can be seen throughout the feel of real familiarity. According to Grand hotel: his image adorns a poster hanging Along with the gallery, there is a pleasant Managing Director, Toshihiko Yamada, it in the Cafe Terrace, where he is said to garden in which to stroll - or while away is the excellent level of service that keeps have sat every morning, drinking a Royal the afternoon - a cocktail bar where them coming back. “Basically we never Milk Tea. There is also a signed family the staff make original drinks and four say we can’t do it here. Sometimes we photograph next to room 128, in which he restaurants, including the main dining get a difficult request from a customer, stayed, and the piano that he played during room, a Chinese and two Japanese but we see that as a good challenge. We his visit – though, unfortunately, the keys eateries. After hiking, playing sports or will always go that extra yard for our are now out of tune. Lennon and Ono rode sightseeing in the town, there seems no guests and I think that is why we have the a tandem through the streets of the town better place to retire. Manpei’s restaurants reputation we have.” and, after an iconic image of them doing so and bar feel at one with the peaceful spread through the media, so did the trend atmosphere of Karuizawa. Mampei Hotel Karuizawa with other visitors. It’s easy to spot them on Web: www.mampei.co.jp the streets, or even parked up next to the Weekender enjoyed a delicious lunch in Address: 925 Karuizawa, Nagano, 389-0102 hotel itself. the exquisitely decorated main dining Tel: 0267-42-1234 | Fax: 0267-42-7766
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Chef Noriyuki Hamada
Our entree, seasonal vegetables from Karuizawa Farm, needed nothing but a simple vinaigrette accent to show off their flavours. For the meat dish there were three options, Nagano style ‘shinshu chicken’, an assortment of roasted pork cuts and Bleston Court charcoal grilled wagyu beef. We opted for the chicken and were not disappointed. Served with a sake sauce and seasonal Serving up art on a plate vegetables, this truly local delicacy was the highlight of the meal.
aving only opened in March Having been driven to Belston Court by There was just about enough room for the 2011 Bleston Court Karuizawa a member of staff at Hoshinoya (the Spa cherry jubilee dessert, with a rich, fruity has already earned a resort and the restaurant are under the sauce cooked and poured, in a final act of reputation as one of the top same management), on arrival we were theatre, at the table. That wasn’t the end Hfine-dining establishments in the country. courteously escorted to our table and of it though, a huge platter of petit fours Fusing French cuisine philosophies and presented with a towel and a small flower. suddenly appeared, with a choice of tea or a classical approach with local Nagano The small details all seemed right so far. coffee. So intricate was the detail, it almost produce and Japanese traditions, hidden Sommelier and Head Waiter, Hirofumi felt a shame to eat them; we did manage to away in a charming, forested setting, it Kikuchi, then explained the provenance get through some, though, before the waiter should have Michelin inspectors in the of our dishes and just how they would be offered to wrap them as souvenirs. reservation book some day soon. prepared; and after bread and champagne, our appetizers arrived. Six tiny round This kind of service came as no surprise as The focus is on seasonal food. Nagano has dishes, imitating a full-course meal. We we had experienced it all night. From the many rivers and forests rich with fresh were told to eat them from left to right – all moment we walked in to the moment we ingredients that Executive Chef Noriyuki in the design it seems – and the miniature left, all the staff at Bleston Court Yukawatan Hamada taps to create his dishes. cabbage soup was a stop and think were extremely affable and attentive. moment, it had a texture that melted into Treated like royalty while being served food The creativity that has gone into the the background as the fresh flavours came fit for kings, I just hope we have chance to preparation, and plating, is clear from through and acted to intrigue as to what go back. the moment our dishes come out of the could possibly come next. kitchen. Hamada is the youngest winner of Bleston Court Yukawatan the Bocuse d’OR Japan and, along with the Following the starters it was time for the Address: Hoshino, Karuizawa-machi, exquisite service we received – surrounded Potage du Jour and then pan-fried ayu, a Nagano 389-0194 by elegant décor - this was a dining sweet fish that was nicely complemented Tel: 050-3786-0066 experience that we will never forget. by a cucumber and green pepper sauce. Website: www.hoshinoya.com
JULY 2012 www.tokyoweekender.com Karuizawa | TRAVEL | 29 Naka Karuizawa Country Club
n 18-hole course with breathtaking views of Mt. Asama Afrom every hole, Naka Karuizawa Country Club is both visually stunning and enjoyable to play for golfers of all levels.
A short drive from Naka Karuizawa station, the par 72 course measures 6,785 yards. There are a variety of services available, including electric golf buggy hire, a golf shop, a bar, an outdoor deck and a restaurant with a delicious selection of Japanese dishes.
If one round isn’t enough for you, it might be worth staying the night at the club’s comfortable hotel. Prices range between 7,500 and 14,000 yen per night, depending on the day and season. Course prices, depending on time and season, range between 7,300 and 29,800 〈CL〉軽井沢虎杖様 〈TITLE〉yen純広告 without a buggy, 〈サイズ and 10,450〉 210×148and 〈紙〉 〈部数〉 32,950 yen with. 〈備考〉 Address: 1166 Nagakura, Karuizawa- machi, Kitasaku-gun, 389-0111 Web: www.nakakaru-cc.com Tel: 02-6746-5511
Karuizawa Beef Stew With boiled rice and pickled vegetables
Karuizawa Beef Stew has been famed for its tender meat and chunky vegetables since the Meiji period. Popular with West erners and local gourmets for its strong a vour and refreshing aftertaste, it is the talk of Karuizawa.
軽井沢銀座入口 旧軽ロータリー前