Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk April 21‐May 5, 2020 Leaders: Kris Ashton and Christine Petty from $4140

Magome, one of 11 post‐towns of the Nakasendo Way that we will pass through

Spring is an amazing time to be in ! The cherry blossoms in Japan are some of the most beautiful in the world. Our trip is timed to visit key locations at the height of the cherry blossom displays, in both Koyasan and along the Nakasendo Way. Our trip starts in the city of Osaka where we’ll have an opportunity to explore the energetic Dotonbori neighborhood before heading up the mountain to Koyasan. Koyasan is a complex of over 100 individual temples dedicated to the study and practice of Shingon Buddhism, brought to Japan in 819 by Kobo Daishi. We’ll stay at one of the temples where we’ll be taken care of by the monks who live there. At the temple, we can enjoy meditation practice, experience sutra writing or just relax in the hot bath or beautiful gardens. We’ll explore Koyasan with a knowledgeable local guide and participate in making our own decorative sushi as part of our lunch. We’ll hike along a rugged mountain route once allocated to women pilgrims. The Nakasendō Way (中山道 Central Mountain Route), also called the Kisokaidō, was one of two routes that connected (modern‐day ) to in Japan. There were 69 stations (staging‐posts or post‐ towns) between Edo and Kyoto, established for the purpose of providing a resting place for travelers along the road. Post‐towns provided accommodation, fresh horses, meals and transportation of goods along the Way. The Nakasendo Way was used by the shogun, daimyo, and other important persons needing to travel between the two capitals of Japan during the (1603‐1868). There is some evidence that the route was also traveled by pilgrims.

Trip Information 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Our walk passes through a section knows as Kisoji in the Kiso River Valley of central Honshu. The route's eleven post towns were incorporated into the Nakasendo because the route already existed and there were many towns along the way that were set up for long‐distance travelers. Some parts of the Nakasendo now follow a river and major highway; we’ll skip some of these sections by taking a local train a few times. We’ll also visit and hike a section of the Kisokaidō in the “Alps” of Japan before ending our adventure in Tokyo.

Nakasendo Way hike areas

The Nakasendo Way connects Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo)

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Accommodation

In both Koyasan and most places along the Nakasendo Way, we’ll stay in Japanese‐style accommodations. Whether it’s a Buddhist temple, a family‐run ryokan (guest house) or a Japanese‐style hotel, they all have three things in common: the futon beds, the hot bath, and the food.

Japanese‐style room with futons

The futons may be set out already, or there may be a small, low table in the center of the room with cushions for seating. In some accommodations, while guests are enjoying dinner, the staff may come and lay out the futons. Kimono robes (generally with jackets), house slippers, towels and toiletries are provided.

Japanese bath

The baths in the accommodation are always gender segregated, but may be shared with several guests at a time (depending on the size of the bath). Guests first shower thoroughly using the hand showers and then slide into the hot water to relax. Clothing, swim suits or towels are not allowed in the soaking tubs.

Typical Japanese meal

Japanese meals consist of many small dishes of a wide variety of things, including vegetables, tofu, fish, meat and/or rice. Tea is always served with meals. The meal might be placed on the table all at once or be served in courses. At dinner there is generally a hot pot with all sorts of goodies cooking in it.

Vegetarian meals are available. In fact, while staying in the Buddhist temple in Koyasan, the meals are entirely vegetarian. (Sorry, there is no gluten‐free option.)

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Itinerary

Arrival in Osaka, Japan Group welcome meeting in the evening. Tuesday, April 21 This evening we’ll congregate in the hotel lounge area for a welcome drink and some Welcome drinks and snacks snacks while we review the exciting itinerary we have planned. Those who are not too tired after their long journey may want to get dinner together (not included) or explore the nearby Dotonbori neighborhood. Optional dinner together at a local restaurant.

Accommodation: Western‐style hotel rooms with private bath & toilet in the energetic Dotonbori area of Osaka.

Dotonbori neighborhood

Travel from Osaka to Koyasan Evening walk in Koyasan (distance varies w/walk options). After enjoying a sumptuous Wednesday, April 22 breakfast at our hotel, we leave the bright lights of Osaka and head up Breakfast and dinner into the mountains to Koyasan, the complex of Shingon Buddhist temples founded by Kobo Daishi in 819. We’ll stay in an active Buddhist temple where we can enjoy the beautiful peaceful setting, participate in Ajikan meditation or experience Buddhist sutra writing. After dinner together in the temple, we’ll enjoy a casual night walk through Okunoin Cemetery where we can see the tomb of Kobo Daishi among the thousands of shrines and monuments there.

Koya, the mascot character of Accommodation: Buddhist temple, One of over 50 temples allowing accommodation for Koyasan tourists and pilgrims. Japanese‐style rooms with futons on the floor and shared bath & toilets. The temple is over 1,000 years old, yet offers modern amenities. NOTE: all meals at the Buddhist temple are vegetarian.

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

In Koyasan Guided tour with sushi picnic lunch (up to 5 hours walking). After breakfast together at the temple, we’ll meet our local guide for a walking tour of Thursday, April 23 Koyasan. This morning we’ll visit Okunion Cemetery (again, in the daylight) where we can Breakfast, lunch and dinner observe the ritual delivery of food to Kobo Daishi who is said to be resting in a state of perpetual meditation. For lunch we’ll enjoy a picnic of sushi and other local delicacies prepared by our guide. Afterwards, we’ll visit the Danjo Garan complex of temples and shrines, including Kongobuji, the spectacular head temple of Shingon Buddhism (entrance optional). We’ll be back at our accommodation in time to relax in the hot bath and enjoy dinner together in the temple.

Here is a beautiful website describing Koyasan.

Fun sushi for lunch! Accommodation: Buddhist temple. Participants are free to attend morning prayers with fire ceremony in the temple’s worship hall (6:30 a.m., before breakfast).

Konpon Daita Pagoda in the Danjo Garan complex Monks taking lunch to Kobo Daishi

Okunion Cemetery

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

In Koyasan Hike Women’s Pilgrimage Route (~7 km with option to shorten). For many years, women were not allowed to enter the Koyasan temple complex and Friday, April 24 were only able to approach it by walking a mountainous route around the Breakfast and dinner perimeter, or to worship in special temples near the gates. Today we’ll follow the women’s walking route. Those women must have been tough because the route isn’t easy! [Note there is an option for a shorter, less strenuous hike.] Once back at our temple, relax in the hot bath before our dinner together in the temple.

Accommodation: Buddhist temple.

A Shinto shrine on Mt. Bentendake

Hiking along the Pilgrimage Route

Travel to the Nakasendo Way—Kiso River Valley (Kisoji) From Koyasan to Osaka and onward. This morning (early…yawn…) we’ll Saturday, April 25 have one final opportunity to Breakfast and dinner experience the ritual fire ceremony at our temple before we bid farewell to the monks who have hosted us and make our way down from Koyasan. We’ll head back to Osaka, where we board our bullet train to Nagoya. From there we transfer to Ena, a post‐town in the Kiso River valley, where we can explore the town a bit before heading to our Japanese‐style ryokan. We’ll A ryokan is a small, family‐run need to grab our lunch on the way, but guest house with futons on the we’ll have a nice relaxing dinner together in the ryokan. floor and shared baths and toilets. Accommodation: Ryokan in Ena.

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Travel from Ena to Magome (Kisoji) Visit Hiroshige Print Museum, explore Magome (urban walking distance varies) After breakfast and our goodbyes, we’ll make one last stop in Ena before taking a short Sunday, April 26 journey to Magome, the starting town of our Nakasendo walk. In Ena, we’ll visit the Breakfast and dinner Hiroshige Print Museum where we can see the works of this famous woodblock print artist. During our visit, we’ll have an opportunity to make our own woodblock prints.

Once settled in our ryokan in Magome, we’ll head over to the Tourist Information office where those who wish can purchase a Nakasendo Traveler’s Staff and have it branded for the first Nakasendo post‐town in the Kisoji. Then we’ll explore this amazing restored 18th‐ century town until returning to our ryokan for a relaxing hot bath and dinner together.

Accommodation: Ryokan in Magome.

Hiroshige print depicting Kiso‐Fukushima control gate from The Sixty‐Nine Stations of the Kisokaido Historic information board in Magome

Free Day OR Travel from Magome to Nakatsugawa Visit Nakatsugawa post‐town and Naegi Castle (urban walking distance varies) Monday, April 27 Today we have some choices: participants may want to sit and relax in Magome for the Breakfast and dinner day, or take a short bus ride to Nakatsugawa post‐town where we can visit the town and its historic castle, Naegi (also referred to as “Misty Castle,” as its walls are not white like many Japanese castles, but made with a reddish colored clay). The site has been protected as a National Historic Site since 1981.

We’ll need to pack carefully before we leave Magome tomorrow morning, because tomorrow night we will not have our luggage with us.

Model of Naegi Castle

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Walk Magome to Nagiso (~12 km). Today we’ll send our luggage off to meet us in 2 days at Kiso‐Fukushima and we’ll walk with whatever we need in our daypacks for the next two (2) days. Tuesday, April 28 Our walk today takes us from the restored post‐town of Magome over Magome Pass (810 Breakfast and dinner meters) and through the beautiful original post‐town of Tsumago where we can appreciate the unique 18th‐century architecture of these towns, explore some of the local businesses and get our Traveler’s Staff branded. We’ll continue on to Nagiso, where we’ll Remember: no luggage here! get picked up by our accommodation, do a bit of shopping for tomorrow’s lunch, and head up the mountain where we’ll enjoy the evening and dinner together at the hostel.

Accommodation: Hostel* in Nagiso.

* NOTE that in this accommodation only, we will sleep dormitory‐style in two large shared rooms. This accommodation has two (2) toilets, one (1) shower and one (1) bath, so we’ll have to be patient as we take our turns. Ancient stone paths and forest trails on today’s walk.

Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Walk Nagiso to Nojiri (~16 km). Travel to Kiso‐Fukushima. Wednesday, April 29 We’ll need to get an early start today as we intend to walk over Yogawa Way, a forested mountain track that takes us up Breakfast and dinner and over Nenoue Pass (1200 meters). Yogawa Way was built as a detour for this narrow section of the Kiso River which was often flooded. We’ll have a picnic lunch along the way before we drop down into the post‐town of Nojiri, where we can get our Traveler’s Staff brands and then catch our train for Kiso‐ Fukushima. Dinner together at our hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso‐Fukushima. A nice hotel with Japanese‐style rooms, an awesome bath and an amazing Manga library!

Traveler’s Staff with brands

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

In Kiso‐Fukushima Visit other post‐towns with walk back (~10 km). Thursday, April 30 Today we’ll travel backwards on the Nakasendo Way and visit a couple of post‐towns that we passed by on the train yesterday. In Suhara we can visit a famous Buddhist temple Breakfast and dinner complex before going to the next town, Agematsu, by train. From here we’ll walk towards Kiso‐Fukushima, visiting some interesting sights along the way including Nezame no Toko, a “noted place of scenic beauty,” where we can enjoy lunch and visit a Shinto shrine. In order to skip a boring road section, we’ll go back to Kiso‐Fukushima by train in time for a relaxing bath and dinner together at our hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso‐Fukushima.

Ordering lunch from a ticket‐vending machine is a uniquely Japanese experience! Nezame no Toko, a “noted place of scenic beauty”

In Kiso‐Fukushima Local day with options (walking/hiking distance or time varies w/option). Friday, May 1 Today there are several options for spending our day in the Kiso‐Fukushima area. The leaders will guide a morning hike in the hills above Kiso‐Fukushima which should be Breakfast and dinner bursting with spring colors. After lunch, participants may wish to visit the last extant Nakasendo Barrier Station (checkpoint). For those collecting brands on their Traveler’s Staff, it’s just a short train ride to the next wood‐branding post‐town (which we won’t walk through). Kiso‐Fukushima is a large town with many interesting local sights to see, including a sake brewery tour or chopstick‐making experience. Lots of options for Participants may choose to take a today! rest day in Kiso‐Fukushima and just Dinner together at our hotel. relax!

Accommodation: Hotel in Kiso‐Fukushima.

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Hiroshige woodblock print of Kiso‐Fukushima Barrier Station

Kiso‐Fukushima: lots of options!

Nakasendo Way (Kisoji) Travel to Yabuhara. Walk Yabuhara to Kiso‐Hirasawa (~13.5 km). Travel to Matsumoto. Saturday, May 2 This morning we’ll start out Breakfast with a short train ride to the post‐town of Yabuhara, famous for Orokugushi combs. We’ll drop by the town center and get our Staff brands before heading up and over Torii‐toge Pass (830 meters) and into the 18th‐ century post‐town of Narai, perhaps the best example of Comb shop in Yabuhara the unique architecture of these towns. We’ll pause here for lunch and a good look around before continuing on our final segment of the Nakasendo in the Kiso River We’ll need to pack carefully before valley—we’ll walk to the village of Kiso‐Hirasawa, famous for its beautiful lacquer ware. we leave Matsumoto tomorrow A short walk past the village takes us to the branding station and an opportunity to see morning, because tomorrow night special items made in this region. we will not have our luggage with us. From Kiso‐Hirasawa we’ll hop a train to the city of Matsumoto, where we can get situated before having dinner on our own in Matsumoto. Accommodation: Hotel in Matsumoto. A Western‐style hotel in the center of town.

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Travel to the Nakasendo Way—Japan Alps region Travel to Karuizawa (walking distance/time varies in Matsumoto and Karuizawa) Sunday, May 3 This morning we’ll send our luggage off to meet us in Tokyo before heading North to the Japan Alps region and our final Nakasendo walking segment. First, we’ll visit Breakfast and dinner famous Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan’s premier historic castles and which dates from 1504. Then we hop on the bullet train to A lovely hotel with Japanese‐style Nagano where we transfer to our rooms at the end of town and very final segment into Karuizawa (lunch close to our walk tomorrow. along the way or on board the train.) Karuizawa is a very interesting town Remember: no luggage here! with many local sights and shops to visit before getting settled into our hotel, relaxing in the bath, and having dinner together at our hotel.

Accommodation: Hotel in Karuizawa. Matsumoto Castle

Nakasendo Way—Japan Alps region Walk Karuizawa to Yokokawa (~16 km). Travel to Tokyo. Starting out bright and early, Monday, May 4 we’ll head up the trail to Breakfast and dinner Usui Pass (1200 meters) where we can stop and enjoy spectacular views to Mt. Asama and visit a Kumano shrine complex. Then it’s a long track through forested mountain trails until we drop down to the road, where the final 5km is along an old railway into Yokokawa. Once there, we’ll jump on a local train to Takasaki before boarding our last bullet train to Tokyo.

We’ll arrive in Tokyo in time to have a relaxing walk around our neighborhood, including a visit to Nihonbashi bridge and the zero‐km marker of the Nakasendo Way. Farewell dinner together at a local restaurant.

Accommodation: Tokyo hotel. A modern, Western‐style hotel in the Chuo district of Tokyo. Within walking distance of the Tsujuki fish market and other sites.

Kumano shrine on Usui Pass

Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk

Beautiful forested track on our walk today Along the abandoned railway

Good‐bye, Nakasendo What is this old school bus doing in the middle of the forest? How did it get here?

Home or onward travel After breakfast together, we bid our farewells as we go home or onward. Tuesday, May 5 If you are taking an evening flight out of Tokyo, you can you can leave your luggage at Breakfast the hotel and explore a bit on Tokyo on your own.

zero‐km marker in Tokyo

Kris and Christine make their way home It’s been an amazing trip!

Itinerary 7/21/2019