Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk
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Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk April 21‐May 5, 2020 Leaders: Kris Ashton and Christine Petty from $4140 Magome, one of 11 post‐towns of the Nakasendo Way that we will pass through Spring is an amazing time to be in Japan! The cherry blossoms in Japan are some of the most beautiful in the world. Our trip is timed to visit key locations at the height of the cherry blossom displays, in both Koyasan and along the Nakasendo Way. Our trip starts in the city of Osaka where we’ll have an opportunity to explore the energetic Dotonbori neighborhood before heading up the mountain to Koyasan. Koyasan is a complex of over 100 individual temples dedicated to the study and practice of Shingon Buddhism, brought to Japan in 819 by Kobo Daishi. We’ll stay at one of the temples where we’ll be taken care of by the monks who live there. At the temple, we can enjoy meditation practice, experience sutra writing or just relax in the hot bath or beautiful gardens. We’ll explore Koyasan with a knowledgeable local guide and participate in making our own decorative sushi as part of our lunch. We’ll hike along a rugged mountain route once allocated to women pilgrims. The Nakasendō Way (中山道 Central Mountain Route), also called the Kisokaidō, was one of two routes that connected Edo (modern‐day Tokyo) to Kyoto in Japan. There were 69 stations (staging‐posts or post‐ towns) between Edo and Kyoto, established for the purpose of providing a resting place for travelers along the road. Post‐towns provided accommodation, fresh horses, meals and transportation of goods along the Way. The Nakasendo Way was used by the shogun, daimyo, and other important persons needing to travel between the two capitals of Japan during the Edo period (1603‐1868). There is some evidence that the route was also traveled by pilgrims. Trip Information 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk Our walk passes through a section knows as Kisoji in the Kiso River Valley of central Honshu. The route's eleven post towns were incorporated into the Nakasendo because the route already existed and there were many towns along the way that were set up for long‐distance travelers. Some parts of the Nakasendo now follow a river and major highway; we’ll skip some of these sections by taking a local train a few times. We’ll also visit and hike a section of the Kisokaidō in the “Alps” of Japan before ending our adventure in Tokyo. Nakasendo Way hike areas The Nakasendo Way connects Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo) Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk Accommodation In both Koyasan and most places along the Nakasendo Way, we’ll stay in Japanese‐style accommodations. Whether it’s a Buddhist temple, a family‐run ryokan (guest house) or a Japanese‐style hotel, they all have three things in common: the futon beds, the hot bath, and the food. Japanese‐style room with futons The futons may be set out already, or there may be a small, low table in the center of the room with cushions for seating. In some accommodations, while guests are enjoying dinner, the staff may come and lay out the futons. Kimono robes (generally with jackets), house slippers, towels and toiletries are provided. Japanese bath The baths in the accommodation are always gender segregated, but may be shared with several guests at a time (depending on the size of the bath). Guests first shower thoroughly using the hand showers and then slide into the hot water to relax. Clothing, swim suits or towels are not allowed in the soaking tubs. Typical Japanese meal Japanese meals consist of many small dishes of a wide variety of things, including vegetables, tofu, fish, meat and/or rice. Tea is always served with meals. The meal might be placed on the table all at once or be served in courses. At dinner there is generally a hot pot with all sorts of goodies cooking in it. Vegetarian meals are available. In fact, while staying in the Buddhist temple in Koyasan, the meals are entirely vegetarian. (Sorry, there is no gluten‐free option.) Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk Itinerary Arrival in Osaka, Japan Group welcome meeting in the evening. Tuesday, April 21 This evening we’ll congregate in the hotel lounge area for a welcome drink and some Welcome drinks and snacks snacks while we review the exciting itinerary we have planned. Those who are not too tired after their long journey may want to get dinner together (not included) or explore the nearby Dotonbori neighborhood. Optional dinner together at a local restaurant. Accommodation: Western‐style hotel rooms with private bath & toilet in the energetic Dotonbori area of Osaka. Dotonbori neighborhood Travel from Osaka to Koyasan Evening walk in Koyasan (distance varies w/walk options). After enjoying a sumptuous Wednesday, April 22 breakfast at our hotel, we leave the bright lights of Osaka and head up Breakfast and dinner into the mountains to Koyasan, the complex of Shingon Buddhist temples founded by Kobo Daishi in 819. We’ll stay in an active Buddhist temple where we can enjoy the beautiful peaceful setting, participate in Ajikan meditation or experience Buddhist sutra writing. After dinner together in the temple, we’ll enjoy a casual night walk through Okunoin Cemetery where we can see the tomb of Kobo Daishi among the thousands of shrines and monuments there. Koya, the mascot character of Accommodation: Buddhist temple, One of over 50 temples allowing accommodation for Koyasan tourists and pilgrims. Japanese‐style rooms with futons on the floor and shared bath & toilets. The temple is over 1,000 years old, yet offers modern amenities. NOTE: all meals at the Buddhist temple are vegetarian. Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk In Koyasan Guided tour with sushi picnic lunch (up to 5 hours walking). After breakfast together at the temple, we’ll meet our local guide for a walking tour of Thursday, April 23 Koyasan. This morning we’ll visit Okunion Cemetery (again, in the daylight) where we can Breakfast, lunch and dinner observe the ritual delivery of food to Kobo Daishi who is said to be resting in a state of perpetual meditation. For lunch we’ll enjoy a picnic of sushi and other local delicacies prepared by our guide. Afterwards, we’ll visit the Danjo Garan complex of temples and shrines, including Kongobuji, the spectacular head temple of Shingon Buddhism (entrance optional). We’ll be back at our accommodation in time to relax in the hot bath and enjoy dinner together in the temple. Here is a beautiful website describing Koyasan. Fun sushi for lunch! Accommodation: Buddhist temple. Participants are free to attend morning prayers with fire ceremony in the temple’s worship hall (6:30 a.m., before breakfast). Konpon Daita Pagoda in the Danjo Garan complex Monks taking lunch to Kobo Daishi Okunion Cemetery Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk In Koyasan Hike Women’s Pilgrimage Route (~7 km with option to shorten). For many years, women were not allowed to enter the Koyasan temple complex and Friday, April 24 were only able to approach it by walking a mountainous route around the Breakfast and dinner perimeter, or to worship in special temples near the gates. Today we’ll follow the women’s walking route. Those women must have been tough because the route isn’t easy! [Note there is an option for a shorter, less strenuous hike.] Once back at our temple, relax in the hot bath before our dinner together in the temple. Accommodation: Buddhist temple. A Shinto shrine on Mt. Bentendake Hiking along the Pilgrimage Route Travel to the Nakasendo Way—Kiso River Valley (Kisoji) From Koyasan to Osaka and onward. This morning (early…yawn…) we’ll Saturday, April 25 have one final opportunity to Breakfast and dinner experience the ritual fire ceremony at our temple before we bid farewell to the monks who have hosted us and make our way down from Koyasan. We’ll head back to Osaka, where we board our bullet train to Nagoya. From there we transfer to Ena, a post‐town in the Kiso River valley, where we can explore the town a bit before heading to our Japanese‐style ryokan. We’ll A ryokan is a small, family‐run need to grab our lunch on the way, but guest house with futons on the we’ll have a nice relaxing dinner together in the ryokan. floor and shared baths and toilets. Accommodation: Ryokan in Ena. Itinerary 7/21/2019 Koyasan & Nakasendo Way Walk Travel from Ena to Magome (Kisoji) Visit Hiroshige Print Museum, explore Magome (urban walking distance varies) After breakfast and our goodbyes, we’ll make one last stop in Ena before taking a short Sunday, April 26 journey to Magome, the starting town of our Nakasendo walk. In Ena, we’ll visit the Breakfast and dinner Hiroshige Print Museum where we can see the works of this famous woodblock print artist. During our visit, we’ll have an opportunity to make our own woodblock prints. Once settled in our ryokan in Magome, we’ll head over to the Tourist Information office where those who wish can purchase a Nakasendo Traveler’s Staff and have it branded for the first Nakasendo post‐town in the Kisoji. Then we’ll explore this amazing restored 18th‐ century town until returning to our ryokan for a relaxing hot bath and dinner together. Accommodation: Ryokan in Magome. Hiroshige print depicting Kiso‐Fukushima control gate from The Sixty‐Nine Stations of the Kisokaido Historic information board in Magome Free Day OR Travel from Magome to Nakatsugawa Visit Nakatsugawa post‐town and Naegi Castle (urban walking distance varies) Monday, April 27 Today we have some choices: participants may want to sit and relax in Magome for the Breakfast and dinner day, or take a short bus ride to Nakatsugawa post‐town where we can visit the town and its historic castle, Naegi (also referred to as “Misty Castle,” as its walls are not white like many Japanese castles, but made with a reddish colored clay).