Tool Shop Zero (Chip-Out) Tolerance Don’t accept workpiece chip-out on your tablesaw. Instead, eliminate it by using a zero-clearance insert for every cut you make.

nyone who’s ever crosscut Watch a FREE video on zero-clearance knows how face-grain inserts at woodmagazine.com/zcivideo Achip-out can ruin an edge. Once the damage is done, you’re forced to either fill those voids or accept the flaws on your project. But you don’t have to live with chip- out. A shop-made zero-clearance insert With a pattern bit installed in your MAKE A PATTERN OF THE INSERT replaces your tablesaw’s factory- table, use your ’s original supplied throat plate—and its wide gap insert to make duplicates. Some insert Tongue that allows unsupported fibers to plates have antilift tongues [Photo A] or Fits tear away during a cut. Because you cut lateral-adjustment screws—with these here the blade slot with the blade you’re you need to create a pattern to use for using, the zero-clearance insert fully making copies. To do this, trace your supports the fibers. insert plate onto a blank of plywood or It’s a good idea to use an insert for MDF, smoothing the tongue or screw every blade and every cut you make. areas. Cut close to the line at your Plowing a 3⁄4"-wide ? Use a custom- , and then sand the pattern fitting insert to stop chip-out. How until it fits snugly into your saw’s about a 1⁄2" dado? Make another insert. throat. If you want the antilift benefit Cutting a 30° ? Get an insert just of the tongue, you can add this to your A for that. You can easily make insert inserts by cutting a on the The insert plate on Ridgid’s TS3650 tablesaw plates, so cut out a dozen blanks and bottom side and then gluing in a thin has a tongue on the outfeed end that slips keep them handy for every time you strip of that protrudes under under the tabletop and into a pocket to prevent lifting during a cut. change blades or bevel angles. After the tabletop. using an insert for a specific setup, Cut out rectangular plywood blanks FLUSH-TRIM BLANKS TO PATTERN mark it with that setting (and blade) slightly larger than the pattern. Using and save it so you’ll have it for the next cloth-backed, double-faced tape, secure time you make the same cut. the blank to the pattern, and then bandsaw to within 1⁄8" of the pattern. How to make inserts fast Next, rout the blanks to shape using a You can buy pricey, premade phenolic pattern bit or flush-trim bit in your inserts, but we like to make our own router table [Photo B]. zero-clearance inserts from 3⁄8- or 1⁄2"- thick Baltic plywood. This stable Customize the inserts material proves strong, and doesn’t to fit your tablesaw have voids between plies. Medium- Now that you have the blanks cut to density fiberboard (MDF) also makes a shape, make a finger hole (for removing Pattern bit good insert, but lacks the strength of the insert) by drilling a 3⁄4" hole Insert blanks Pattern plywood. , although strong, through each insert. Keep it at least 1" B can shrink or swell with seasonal to the side of where the blade will If your bit is long enough, you can rout two changes in humidity, and don’t work as project through the insert. inserts at a time by double-face taping them well as plywood. continued on page 30 together, and then to the pattern.

28 WOOD magazine March 2008 Tool Shop CHECK THE BLADE DEPTH PRECUT THE BLADE KERF

On many with 10" blades, the blade retracts only 1⁄4" or so below the table surface [Photo C], meaning your unkerfed insert blank won’t sit flush with the tabletop. You’ve got three options here: First, use a smaller diameter blade—like one of the outer blades from your stacked dado set, or a blade from your portable — to cut a relief slot that your 10" blade C D will fit into. (Unless the blade you use With this steel rule resting on the insert Because the insert rests on top of the saw, has the same kerf width as your 10" ledges, you can see that the 10" blade secure it firmly with double-faced tape and a blade, don’t raise it high enough to requires a relief cut in a blank insert. board and clamps. break through the surface.) ROUT A RELIEF CHANNEL A RIVING-KNIFE SLOT Your second option is to adhere the blank onto the metal insert plate, it in place, and then slowly raise your spinning 10" blade until it just pokes through the plywood blank [Photo D]. Now separate the two plates and install the zero-clearance insert over the blade. With option #3, rout a 1⁄4" channel along the bottom of the insert deep enough to give the blade initial E F clearance [Photo E] when you place it in Use any bit that can rout a channel. We used After making a relief cut with a 1⁄4"-diameter the saw. However, do not rout deeper this dish-carving bit to create a 3⁄4"-wide router bit, we used a jigsaw to create than half the thickness of the insert. relief necessary for a 45° bevel cut insert. clearance for the riving knife. More than half would weaken it and ALLOW FOR PROTRUSIONS MARK SCREW LOCATIONS EASILY create a potential safety hazard. You’ll also have to cut relief holes or Arbor Leveling slots for blade guards, splitters, or riving assembly knives. You can do this with your screws tablesaw and 10" blade—with the original insert installed—if the relief exits the back of the insert. If it does not, use a jigsaw [Photo F]. You might also have to relieve the bottom face for such things as the arbor assembly and Riving Relief knife areas flange, or for parts specific to the original insert [Photo G]. Machine these G H shallow relief areas at the press A relief area for the arbor assembly proves Place thumbtacks onto the ledges, and then with a Forstner bit or on a router table. necessary when raising the blade to cut 2" or gently lower the insert into place. Tap it thicker workpieces. lightly to make indentations. Now level the insert with the tablesaw top ADD ADJUSTMENT SCREWS LEVEL THE INSERT TO THE TOP If your insert sits too high, drill or rout relief areas on the bottom where it sits on the throat tabs or . If your insert sits too low, add leveling screws so you can adjust the fit perfectly from the top. (Use either setscrews or machine screws.) To do this, either transfer the screw locations from the Leveling original insert, or use thumbtacks to screws mark them [Photo H]. Now drill shank Lateral screw holes, and countersink or counterbore on the top face. Add the screws [Photo I] I J and then raise or lower them to make Add hex screws for leveling. Add wood Adjust the leveling hex screws to ensure the the insert flush [Photo J]. ¿ screws to one edge and end for lateral insert sits flush with the tablesaw’s top. If it adjustments if the insert is too loose. sits too high your workpieces will catch on it.

30 WOOD magazine March 2008 GREAT IDEAS FOR YOUR SHOP

3/4' counlerbore '!Is' deep wilh a '/4' alllhread 5118' hole centered inside 2" long epoxied onlo knob 3/4" counlerbore '/4' deep with a 5/1a" hole centered inside '/4' T-nut 113h6'~~ ...... -Plastic 3/ ,1 13116' .- ~ ~ knob 4 R=:S!s" D>:4~~-L3' 0 __.•...... )

o ...... t;;: "-t " ~... ( 1" rabbet 1'/2' '/4' hole 3h6' deep cr '12" '/s' rcC:;::-;;==::::O::C:::C:-l Nole: If you use this on a I- 21/2" rabbet miler-gaulle extension, rip '-.2112~ 3/16' deep the extensIon to 25/s" wide.

Use this handy stop on your own the December 1996 issue of 2%"-wide miter- extension, WOO.D@ magazine. It fits on the or add it to the sliding tablesaw and allows you to cut piece shown ;Jt left and feat.ured in after piece to the same length.• Project Design:J.mes R. DownIng Illustration: Roxonne lcMoine Photographs: John Hetherington

STAR roOLS. LLC. TOLL FREe 1·888·678·8777 MON,· FAI, 7:00AM· 5:00PM (Pacific TIme)

HEAVY DUTY CABINET SAW 25" DUAL DRUM SANDER 1·112 H.P. SHAPER SPECIAL PACKAGE INCLUDES: - 5 H.P.220 VOLT PACKAGE PRICE INCLUDES: - 53221 MOTOR COVER • 2 SPEEDS 11 & 17 • 1-112 HP SHAPER • 53226 MICRO ADJUSTER FPMlREVEASIBLE • 3' CAST IRON - 83857 DUST HOOD & -CAST IRON DUST HOOD FREUD LU82 10" BLADE WORKTABLE • ROUTER BIT &3202 53409 COLLET $995.00 • CAST IRON $1,295.00 EXTENTION WING SAW AND FENCe ONLY S3302 $875.00 $525.00 REGULAR Pfll Cf $575.00 6" 2 H.P. DUST COLLECTOR INCLUDES: SPECIAL PACKAGE PRICE • 1-1/2 H.P. MOTOR INCLUDES: • NEW JACK SCREW • 2 MICRON UPPER BAG G 20"BANDSAW • CUTTERHEAD • CLEAR PLASTIC LOWER • 4" OUST PORT BLADE • DUST COLLECTOR PORT BRAKE - WELDED STAND • :~EASE METAL STRAP~ • 3 H.P. 220 VOLT S3104 53820 • 12" RESAW CAPACITY SPECIAllNmODUCTORY PRICE $325.00 • ROLLER GUIDES $485.00 WITH REGULAR BAGS S3506 REGULAR PRICE $525.00 (SHOWN WITH OPTIONAL MOBILE BASE) $270.00 $1,295.00

MAIN OFFICE SHOW ROOM WEST COAST. EAST COAST SHippiNG WAREHOUSE SHOWROOM 9825 PIONEER BLVD. 12 ARMORY ROAD, SANTA FE SPRINGS, CA. 90670 .. CLARKSBURG, WV. 26301 TEL: 562-654-3065 , ~ ,., VISA tlECltSOPPORlOHl.,., TEL: 304-624-6685 FAX: 562-654-3066 ...... FAX: 304·624-8928 workcenters & supports 3-in-1 Work

PLATFORM TOP 1 Great as an assem- Support bly or finishing stand, this top is also a handy place to stack parts while machining.

GLIDE TOP 2 Use this top when you need to support the end of a long workpiece on your drill press or mitersaw.

ROLLER TOP 3 Adjust this top’s height to catch the outfeed from your tablesaw or planer.

118 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 3. SPACER JIG

2 SPACER JIG A N 2" B O 3fi" hether you’re machining long uprights’ edges, where shown in Step 2. C P stock or simply looking for a Now form the half-laps and drill the hole, Step 3 ‹" D Q place to rest your workpiece, where shown in . you’ll find this versatile stand Cut four ‡×4‹×16‹" pieces of ‡" W ‹" E R ready to help. With adjustable height and 3stock, and glue and clamp them to- interchangeable glide, roller, and plat- gether in pairs to form two 1fi"-thick S ‡" F form tops, it’s a perfect match for any blanks for the feet (C). Joint and trim G T number of tasks. them to size. Make four photocop- ies of the Foot pattern on Drawing U H First, build a sturdy base 5, page 122, and cut them out along V I Cut four ‡×2‹×29" pieces of stock, the lines. Tape the half-patterns together 1. UPRIGHT 1. UPRIGHT 1. UPRIGHT and glue and clamp them together in to form the whole foot. (Half of each pat- W 1 J pairs to form two 1fi"-thick blanks for the tern will be face down.) Adhere the patterns X K uprights (A). Joint and trim them to the to the foot blanks with spray adhesive. Y size listed in the Materials List. Install Form half-laps, where indicated on L a dado blade in your tablesaw, and plow 4the pattern, to mate with the laps at Z grooves in the uprights, where shown on the bottoms of the uprights. Now band- M A Drawing 1, Step 1. Cut the fillers (B) to saw and sand the feet to the pattern lines. Clamping the spacer jig to the rails helps size, and glue and clamp them in place, Remove the patterns. Glue and clamp the you accurately position the end spacers. where shown. The fillers’ and the up- feet to the uprights. When the glue dries, rights’ bottom ends are flush. sand the joints smooth. Set the leg assem- With the dado blade in your tablesaw, blies (A,B,C) aside. end on one edge of the extensions, where 2form the dadoes and in the two ‡×4fi×96" shown on Drawing 4a. Chuck a ‡" 5boards to fi" thick. From straight bit in your table-mounted router, one, cut the six rails (D) to and in ¤" increments, rout the stopped 1 UPRIGHT size. Set the other board grooves, as shown in Photo B. 2" rabbets 2" rabbets 2" rabbets aside for the top supports the ends of the grooves with a . fi" deep fi" deep fi" deep 1fi" 2" 1fi" 2" 1fi" 2" ˇ" hole (G). Fromˇ" 1"-thick hole stock, cut ˇ" holeDrill the ˇ" hole, where shown on the spacers (E) to size. Make Drawing 4a. Bandsaw and sand the 2" 2" 2" 2 3" the spacer3" jig, shown on3" rounded corners. (The bottoms have only Drawing 2. Glue and clamp one rounded corner.) Cut two pieces of spacers to each end of three aluminum mini-track (a type of T-track) 11fl" 11fl" 11fl"1" rails, as shown1" in Photo A. 1" to length, drill screw pilot holes, and Then glue and clamp a third screw the tracks in place. See the Source A N A N A N spacer at the rails’ centers, on page 120 for our mini-track supplier. A A A A A FILENAME:135WorkSupport2.epsA A where shownA on Drawing 4. A Retrieve your previously planed ½" B O B O B O Date: 5-01 Stand the two legs up- stock and cut the top supports (G) to Lorna J. 3 right on your . size. Drill counterbores near the ends of C P C P P 6 C Spread glue in the lower three supports, where shown on Drawing D Q D Q D Q dadoes in one edge of each 4b. Tape a second support to the ones just 2" 2" 2" 28‡" 28‡" 28‡" upright, and slip in one rail/ counterbored, and, centering the bit in E R E R E R 1" groove 1" groove 1" groove spacers assembly. Spread the counterbore, drill ˇ" holes through S S S F F F ‹" deep ‹" deep ‹" deep glue in the dadoes in the up- the paired supports. Mark the radius on 1" 1" fi" fi" fi" 1" rights’ other edges and on the corners, as shown, and bandsaw and G T G T G T the spacers, and clamp a sec- 1" 1" H U H U H U 1" ond rail in place, as shown 2" dadoes 2" dadoes on Drawing 4. Repeat this V V V fi" fi" fi" 2" dadoes I I I fi" deep fi" deep fi" deep process for the other two 3fi" half- 3fi" half- 3fi" half- W W W J J J lap on rail/spacer/raillap on assemblies.lap on X X X outside Makeoutside sure the rails’ ends outsideare K K K face flushface with the uprights’ out-face Y Y Y 2" L L L 2" 2" side faces and that the whole Z Z Z assembly is square. M M M 3fi" 3fi" 3fi" Add extensions 3fi" 3fi" 3fi" 3fi" and tops 3fi" 3fi" B B B B From 1" stock, cut the ex- Mark the bit location on your fence. Stop tensions (F) to size. Mark STEP 1 STEP 1 STEPSTEP 2 1 STEP 2 STEPSTEP 3 2 1 STEP 3 STEProuting 3 when the stop line on the exten- Inside face Inside face OutsideInside face face Outside face OutsideOutside face face a stop lineOutside for face the groove’sOutside sion face aligns with the mark on the fence.

woodmagazine.com 119

FILENAME:135WorkSupport1.epsFILENAME:135WorkSupport1.epsFILENAME:135WorkSupport1.eps Date: 5-01 Date: 5-01 Date: 5-01 Lorna J. Lorna J. Lorna J. workcenters & supports

sand the corners. To ensure perfect hole 3 BEVEL DETAIL alignment, keep the pairs together un- A N til you are ready to glue them to their fi" ‡" Carrier respective tops. board B O Cut the tops (H) to size. Install a dado C P 4blade in your tablesaw, and cut the centered grooves, as shown in Drawing D Q 4c for the glide top and Drawing 4 for the E R roller top. Cut a strip of ¤"-thick UHMW H plastic to fit the glide top’s groove width S F and length. Adhere it in the groove with Fence G T double-faced tape. See the Source for our UHMW supplier. 1‹" H U Tilt your tablesaw blade to 15°. Clamp V the glide top to a ‡×5‡×36" carrier C I 5 board, and cut the , as shown on A carrier board stabilizes the glide top for bevel-ripping. J W Drawing 3 and in Photo C. The glide Tablesaw Blade tilted 15° from vertical X strip’s protruding edges are beveled in K Y this operation. Stand the glide top on end, L clamp it to the carrier board, and bevel the Z M ends, as shown in Photo D. Repeat with clamp the glide top to them, centered and the roller top. Sand the bevels smooth. equally overhanging the ends. Remove Slide the extensions (F) into the the clamped assembly before the glue 6base, and secure them with bolts and dries, clean up any excess glue, and set it T-knobs, as shown on Drawing 4. Select aside. Repeat with the roller top. a pair of top supports (G) and install the Cut the panel (I) to size, and miter- T-nuts. Fasten the supports to the ex- 7cut the ends (J) and sides (K) to fit tensions with studded T-knobs. See the around it, as shown on Drawing 4. Glue Source for our T-knob supplier. Apply and clamp the ends and sides to the panel. glue to the top edges of the supports, and Fasten the last pair of top supports to the panel using the same procedure as with the glide and roller tops. Materials List FINISHED SIZE Time to disassemble, Part TWLM atl.Qty. finish, and reassemble A* uprights 1fi" 2" 28‡" LM 2 Remove the extensions from the base, B fillers ‹" 1" 3fi" M 2 1and the mini-track from the exten- D C* feet 1fi" 4" 16" LM 2 sions. Remove all the T-knobs and bolts. Use the same carrier board to safely D rails fi" 2" 28" M 6 Leave the T-nuts and UHMW strip in place. bevel the ends. FILENAME:135WorkSupport3.epsE spacers 1" 2" 3" M 9 Finish-sand all the parts and assem- them into the base, securing them with Date: 5-01 F extensions 1" 1fi" 24Œ M 2 2blies to 220 grit. Remove the sanding bolts, washers, and T-knobs. Drill screw Lorna J. dust, apply two coats of polyurethane, pilot holes, and fasten the ball-bearing G top supports fi" 2" 27" M 6 sanding between coats with 220-grit rollers in place, as shown on Drawing 4. H tops 1"CUTTING 5‡" 28" DIAGRAM M 2 . (We wiped on General Mount your choice of tops to the extensions I panel ‡" 14fi" 28" BP 1 Finishes Armour Seal, following the di- with studded T-knobs and washers. ¿ J ends ‡" 1fi" 16" M 2 rections on the can.) Written by Jan Svec with Kevin Boyle K sides ‡" 1fi" 29fi" M 2 When the finish dries, reinstall the Project Design: Kevin Boyle Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson *Parts initially cut oversize. 3mini-track in the extensions, and slide Materials Key: LM–laminated , M–maple, BP–birch plywood. Supplies: ‹" flat washers (4), ‹" T-nuts (6), ‹×1‡" hexhead bolts (2), spray adhesive, Cutting Diagram double-faced tape, finish. B * J Source K Hardware. 48" aluminun mini-track w/ tape, A A no. 145825, $18.99; T-knobs w/ ‹" insert, no. 85J95, $0.99 (2); T-knobs w/ ‹×2" stud, no. 27R16, $1.10 (2); ‡ x 7‹ x 96" Maple (5.3 bd. ft.) *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. ¤×4×48" UHMW plastic, no. 124225, $8.50; fl" ball- bearing rollers w/ screws, no. 07B09, $2.99 (9). C C C C Available from Woodcraft. Call 800/225-1153, or go ‡ x 5fi x 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.) to woodcraft.com.

120 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006

D * D * D * ‡ x 4fi x 96" Maple (3.3 bd. ft.)

G * G * G * ‡ x 4fi x 96" Maple (3.3 bd. ft.)

F * E * I A N H * H * B O 1 x 7‹ x 96" Maple (6.7 bd. ft.) (5/4 stock) ‡ x 14fi x 28" Birch plywood C P D Q

E R S F G T

H U V I J W X K Y L Z M

FILENAME:135WorkSupportCD.eps Date: 5-01 Lorna J. 4. EXPLODED VIEW

fl" ball-bearing roller

2" groove Ø" deep

3" 3" 2" 3" H 28" ROLLER TOP 5‡" ¤ x 2 x 28" UHMW plastic GLIDE TOP

2" groove „" deep

H G ‹" T-nut ˇ" hole

‡" counterbore ¤" deep, ‹" flat washer with a ˇ" hole centered inside 1fi"

‹ x 2" T-knob F F Aluminum mini-track 21‹" long

E A N D E B O ‹" hexhead bolt P 1‡" long E C D E D D Q ‹" flat washer E E R 4. EXPLODED VIEW S A F E A fl" ball-bearing roller G T ‹" T-knob

H U 6‡" 2" groove Ø" deep V 3" E I D 4. EXPLODED VIEW C 6‡" 3" J W B 3" 3" E 2" 3" X H K 2‡" 28" fl" ball-bearing roller 28" ROLLER TOP Y 5‡" L 2" half-lap E ¤ x 2 x 28" UHMW plastic GLIDE TOP 2" groove Z ‡" deep, Ø" deep M centered D B 3" 2" groove „" deep 3" 2" 3" H C 28" ROLLER TOP H G 5‡" ¤ x 2 x 28" UHMW plastic ‹" T-nut ˇ" hole GLIDE TOP EXTENSION ‡" counterbore ‹" flat washer ¤"2" deep, groove „" deep with a ˇ" hole 4 EXPLODED VIEW centered inside 1fi" H G ‹ x 2" T-knob K PLATFORM TOP ‹" T-nut ˇ" hole F F Aluminum mini-track J ‡" counterbore 1fi" 21‹" long ‹" flat washer I ¤" deep, 14fi" 28" with a ˇ" hole E A N centered inside 1fi" D J 16" K ‹ x 2" T-knobE 29fi" B O ‹" hexhead bolt F F P 1‡" long E C Aluminum mini-track D E Mitered ends 21‹" long D D Q ‹" flatFILENAME:135WorkSupport4.eps washer Date: 5-01 E Lorna J. E A EN R D 4a EXTENSION A N A S E E B FO 4b TOP SUPPORT R=‡" B O ‹" hexhead bolt ˇ" hole G T A C P ‹" T-knob1‡" long E D 1fi" C P E ‡" D D HQ U ‹" flat washer 6‡" R=‡" G 3fl" D Q E 2" V E 3" #4 x fi" E IR CUTTING DIAGRAM D C F.H. wood F E R 6‡" A fl" JS W E B screw F A N S 3" E X F 2‡" G KT A 28" ‡" counterbore Y B OG T ‹" T-knob ¤" deep, with a A N E ˇ" hole H LU 2" half-lap P U ‡" deep, 6‡" centered inside Z C H B O MV centered 3" D E I D V D Q I P B 4c GLIDEC TOP W C 6‡" J B 24Œ" E RJ W 3" E ¤ x 2 x 28" UHMW plastic X D Q K 2‡" 28" double-faced taped in place S X * C J Y F K E R B E 2" groove „" deep L Y 2" half-lap K T S 1Œ" Z L F ‡" deep, A A ˇ" hole M Z centered H D fi" ‹" flat washer UM G T ‡ x 7‹ x 96" MapleB (5.3 bd. ft.) *Plane or resaw to the thicknesses listed in the Materials List. V G I U H C C C C ‹" T-nut J W V C 1Œ" 1" 1Œ" I ‡ x 5fi x 96" Maple (4 bd. ft.) fi" fi" ‹ x 2" T-knob X PLATFORM TOP K J W K Y X J L K 1fi" Z ¤" Y I M D * D * D * 14fi" 28" L ‡" Z ‡ x 4fi x 96" Maple (3.3 bd. ft.) J M R=‡" 16" K * 29fi" G G * G * K PLATFORM TOP‡" groove Aluminum ›" deep ‡ x 4fi x 96" Maple (3.3 bd. ft.) on insideJ face Mitered ends mini-track 1fi" * I 21‹" long A N FILENAME:135WorkSupport4.epsF E * 14fi"I 28" Date: 5-01 H * H * Lorna J. J O B 16" 1 x 7‹ x 96" Maple (6.7 bd. ft.) (5/4 stock) ‡ x 14fi x 28" Birch plywood K 29fi" C P woodmagazine.com 121 D Q FILENAME:135WorkSupport4b.eps Mitered ends Date: 5-01 E R FILENAME:135WorkSupport4.epsLorna J. Date: 5-01 S F Lorna J. G T

H U V I FILENAME:135WorkSupport4c.eps Date: 5-01 J W Lorna J. FILENAME:135WorkSupport4a.eps X Date: 5-01 K Lorna J. Y L Z M

FILENAME:135WorkSupportCD.eps Date: 5-01 Lorna J. 122 workcenters & supports supports & workcenters

A N

B O

C P D Q 5 FOOT HALF-PATTERN FULL-SIZE E R S F G T Join patterns H U here. V I J W X 3fi" K Y L Z C M Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers Organizers Tools, Shop & Homemade Jigs, Woodworking Best-Ever FOOT FULL-SIZE 2" half-lap HALF-PATTERN on inside face (4 needed)

R=fi"

FILENAME:135WorkSupportPP.eps Date: 6-01 Lorna J. 2006 tablesaw jigs

aised panels have long been a sign Using your dado blade, cut two ‡" of fine craftsmanship—perhaps 2dadoes ‹" deep in the top of the base, Raised- because they appear difficult to where shown on Drawing 1. Rmake. But as you’ll see here, that After adding an auxiliary fence to your need not be the case. On page 14, we’ll 3saw tablesaw rip fence, cut a rabbet show you a simple method for using this ‡" wide and ‹" deep along the bottom Panel Jig jig to cut panels with a tablesaw. edge of the upright (A), where shown on Combine scrap material with a few Drawing 1. hardware items and you’ll have a jig des- Next, drill ˇ" holes in the upright With this one jig, tined for a lifetime of service. See page 4(A) and at the ends of the slot loca- 11, for a hardware source for the knobs. tions in the base. Lay out the sides of the you can build three slots, and scrollsaw them to shape with a popular styles of Start with the basics #12 blade. Cut two braces (C), as dimen- Cut two pieces of ‡" MDF to the sioned on Drawing 2. door panels for your 1 dimensions in the Materials List Drill ¸" pilot holes, and then glue next cabinet project. to make the upright (A) and base (B). 5and screw the jig together using Scrollsaw or bandsaw the 1fi" radii on #8×1fi" brass screws, where shown. the two corners of (B), cutting outside the Tip: Use brass screws anytime your jig’s line. Then sand to the line. screw holes are close to the saw blade.

12 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 2 SLED PARTS VIEW

1›" ˇ" hole F Clamping bar 1‹" 1" 29" 1"

28" 2 SLED PARTS VIEW R=1fi" Now, add the extras Cut the clamping bar (F) to size, and Remove the hardware and the clamp- Cut the guide strip (D) to fit your drill ˇ" holes, whereˇ" slot shown. Lay ing bar Band guide strip, and sand all A N 3 5 Base 1 miter-gauge slot in depth and width. out and shape the clamping bar curve, as parts to 150 grit. Now apply two11fi" coats of TrimB Othe piece to 28" long, and drill coun- shown on Drawing 1, using a bandsaw. finish,‡" dadoes sanding between coats with 180- 5" tersunk ‹" holes centered on the strip 3" Sand smooth. grit‹" . deep C P 2 SLED PARTS VIEW from each end. Attach the guide strip to Next, attach the 1¤" clamping bar to Cut a piece of adhesive-backed theD baseQ using the hardware shown. 4 the jig using the hardware 3" shown. 6 120-grit sandpaper, and3" apply it to Cut the upright stops (E) to size, and Tip: If you have trouble finding extra-long4fi" the jig face, as shown 4fi" on Drawing 1. E R 2 drill the hole and counterbore1›" hole, ˇ"machine hole screws, cut two pieces of all- Then, reassemble the jig. ¿ S whereF shownF onClamping Drawing bar 2. Secure the thread. Then1‹" secure the four-arm knobs 1" stops to the ends of upright (A). to the screws using 5-minute epoxy. G T 29" 1" H U 1 PARTS VIEW V ˇ" hole 4fi" I 1›" fi" ‡" dadoes Location of part E 4fi" ¤" ‹" deep on front face F CLAMPING BAR 1‹" J W 1" ˇ" X 29" 1" hole A K Upright 8" Y 3 PANEL CUTTING SLED R=1fi" 28" (Back face shown) L EXPLODED VIEW 3" Z M ˇ" slot B ‡" rabbet Location of 4 x 24" adhesive A N Base ‹" deep backed 120-grit sandpaper on front face 11fi" B O ‡" dadoes 28" 5" ‹" deep P R=1fi" 28" C 1¤"

D Q fi" ˇ" slot 3" B 3" A N 4fi" 4fi" E R BASE 11fi" B S O ‡" dadoes F 5" ‹" deep 7fi" C P G C T 2 EXPLODED1¤" VIEW Brace A N fi" D Q 3" 3" H U #8 x 1fi" brass 11‹" B O 4fi" 4fi" 1‹" F.H. wood screw E V R 4fi" E ¸" I fi" ‡" dadoes LocationCurve on of this part edgeE 4fi" ¤" S C P ‹" deep on front face 1" pilot hole J F W ‹-20 x 4fi" F.H. 1›" D Q ˇ" machine screw 4 x 24" adhesive ‡" dado G X T hole A ‡" backed 120-grit K ˇ" hole A ‹" deep Four-armUpright 8" sandpaper Y E R knob 29" Upright H U (Back face shown)F 1" L S 3" Four-arm Z V F fi" 4fi" ‡" dadoes Location of part #8E x 1" brass knob I FILENAME:164F.H. wood Panel4fi" screw 2.eps¤" B M ‡" rabbet‹" deep onDate: front 4-05face G T ‹" flat washer Location of 4 x 24" adhesive 3" Base J W ˇ" ‹" deep backedCompressionLorna 120-grit J. sandpaper ¸" onspring front face C pilot hole X H U hole 1" A E K 28" ‹" flat washer UPRIGHT 8" Y V fl" counterbore ‹" deep with a I (Back face shown) ‡" L 3" ˇ" hole centered inside Z J W ‹-20 knife thread insert ˇ" ‡" M ‡" rabbet Location of 4 x 24" adhesive- slot 28" X D Materials‹" List deep backed 120-grit sandpaper‡" rabbet ‹" deep K ‹" holes, countersunk Y FINISHED SIZE on front face 28" 3" on bottom face L Part TWLM atl. Qty. Z A upright ‡" 8" 28" MDF 1 M ‡" B base ‡" 11fi" 28" MDF 1 ‹-20 x 2" F.H. machine screw C braces ‡" 7fi" 11‹" MDF 2 D guide strip ›" ‡" 28" M 1 E upright stops ›" ‡" 8" M 2 F clamping bar ‡" 1›" 29" M 1

Materials key: MDF–medium-density fiberboard, M–maple. Locate previous Supplies: #8×1½", #8×1" brass flathead wood screws; FILENAME:164 Panel 2.eps WOOD magazine Date: 4-05 ‹-20×2" (2), ‹-20×4fi" flathead machine screws (2); project articles at Lorna J. ‹-20 four-arm knobs (4); ‹" flat washers (8); 1fi×›" compression springs (2); ‹-20 knife thread insert (2); woodmagazine.com/index 4" adhesive-backed 120-grit sandpaper.

FILENAME:164 Panel 2.epswoodmagazine.com 13 Date: 4-05 Lorna J.

FILENAME:164 Panel3.eps Date: 4-05 Lorna J. How to Cut Custom Raised Panels1 PANEL STYLES

Cut raised panels THREE POPULAR PANEL STYLES with a tablesaw For the woodworker who doesn’t have a PLAIN-BEVEL BACK-CUT PROUD router table or the budget for expensive PANEL PANEL PANEL raised-panel bits, cutting raised panels on the tablesaw is an effective alterna- tive. This method does have one drawback: You’ll need to invest time and elbow grease ‡" ‡" ‡" frame frame frame A N into finish-sanding the panel bevels. To solve the challenge of supporting B O panels safely while cutting bevels, build the panel-cutting jig shown on page 12. C P D Q Prepare the panels R Before cutting the door panels to size, ›" rabbets E ‹" deep ›" rabbet match the wood tones and arrange the grain ‹" deep S F patterns for best appearance. For example, center the cathedral (inverse V) pattern on Shoulder Shoulder G T 1‡" 1‡" narrow, single-board panels. When gluing Á" H U up wider panels, use pieces cut from the V same board for consistent grain and color. I Next, decide which style of panel you ¤" ‰" W J want. The drawing at right shows three ‡" raised panels X popular styles: a plain-bevel panel, one K that’s flush with the frame (called a back- Y L cut panel), or a proud panel (with the Z panel raised above the frame). All will M give panels a custom look. Glue up the PROS PROS PROS stock needed to make your panel blanks. • contemporary look • shoulder detail • can decorate shoulder Then, cut your panels to finished size. • easy-to-sand bevels catches the eye with profile router bits Note: To minimize wood movement, we CONS CONS CONS suggest using boards no wider than 5" • no panel detail to • bevels are a bit more • bevels are a bit more when gluing up your panels. catch the eye difficult to sand difficult to sand Mark the bevels Looking at the end of the panel blank, lay The following set-up procedure as- Then cut the bevels on the panel edges. out the desired bevel using a sliding bevel sumes that your miter-gauge slot aligns Move through the blade at a consistent square. Also, if your panel needs a tongue parallel with your saw blade. If not, make speed, slowing down only if the saw strains. and rabbet lay them out, at this time. that adjustment. Note: If your saw bogs down in the cut, To cut a raised panel with shoulders (the With a steel rule, measure the distance you may need to use a thin-kerf blade or square lip on the face of the panel), first from the saw blade to the jig’s upright. make the cut in successively deeper passes. adjust the tablesaw’s fence 1‡" from the Move the jig side to side as needed so the blade. Cut a saw kerf ¤" deep (‰" deep distance between the saw blade and the Sand the panel bevels if making proud panels) and 1‡" from all jig is the same as the panel’s tongue (and Remove any saw marks with 100-grit four edges and ends of the panel’s face, rabbet) thickness. When the upright is the sandpaper and a hardwood block. Then as shown in Drawing 3. This kerf will correct distance from the blade, and par- finish-sand the bevels with 150- and 220- FILENAME:164 Panel1.eps determine the shoulder location.Date: 4-05 allel to the blade, tighten down the knobs grit sandpaper. Take care when sanding Lorna J. in the guide strip. Now, adjust the blade not to remove the ridge at the intersection Set up the jig for bevel, as shown in the photo opposite top. of the bevels. Stain the panels before you smooth, accurate cuts assemble the door. ¿ For your jig to function well, it must slide Let’s cut a raised panel Written by Pat Lowry parallel to the saw blade with its upright Clamp your panel into the jig, exterior Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson at a right angle to the saw’s tabletop. With face out, and cut the bevels. Panels can be either blade or upright out of alignment, cut in four passes through the saw. First, scoring and burning will occur. cut across the end grain to reduce chip-out.

14 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 5 SHOULDER PANEL

3 PANEL KERFS DEFINE SHOULDERS

1‡"

1‡" A N ¤" saw kerfs Adjust the saw blade ¤" deep angle to match the B O desired panel angle. C P

D Q PANEL FACE E R S F G T

H U V I J W X K Y L Z M

To adjust the blade to match your bevel, place the panel into the jig with the exterior face out. To adjust the angle and height of the saw blade, sight down the blade, and align it with the layout marks, as shown above. Clamp a test piece into the jig and run it through. Readjust the settings until the angle and bevel thickness are accurate. 4 DETAILING A PANEL 4 DETAILING A PANEL A N A N B O Add detail to your raised panels P B O C After raising the panel on your tablesaw, use a ¼" round-nose P D Q C bit in your router table to detail the square shoulder on the face D Q of the panel. Set the bit 1fl" from the fence, as shown below. E R Then rout the detail, starting with the end grain first, followed S E R by the edge grain. F ›" rabbet ‹" deep S G T F ›" rabbet ‹" deep G T H U Waste ¼" round-nose detail H U V FILENAME:164 Panel 5.eps Waste I Date: 4-05 V ‹" round-nose I Lorna J. 1fl" router bit set to J W ‹" round-nose 1fl" cut ¤" deep X J W router bit set to K cut ¤" deep X Y K L Y Z M L FINISHED CONTOUR Z M FINISHED CONTOUR A ¼" round-nose bit creates a distinct panel.

woodmagazine.com 15

FILENAME:164 Panel 4.eps Date: 4-05 Lorna J. FILENAME:164 Panel 4.eps Date: 4-05 Lorna J. tablesaw jigs

Thin- Strip Ripping Jig Here’s a safety- minded jig that will make you feel more comfortable ripping tiny pieces.

ometimes you need to rip several each cut, but that’s tedious and inaccu- Cut two pieces of maple to size for thin strips of wood to equal thick- rate. This thin-strip ripping jig does the 2the miter-slot guide bar (adjust the di- ness to serve as edging, veneer, job safely, accurately, and quickly. mensions shown if necessary to fit your Sor bending stock. Slicing off thin Refer to Sources on page 11 for hard- tablesaw’s slots) and the sliding bar. Cen- stock on the fence side of the blade, how- ware for this project. ter the miter-slot guide bar in the bottom ever, could prove unsafe. That’s because dado, and glue it in place. Drill a pair of it becomes awkward to use your blade First, build the jig ˇ" holes in the sliding bar, where shown, guard and pushstick when you cut close Cut a piece of ‡" plywood to the scrollsaw the material between them, and to the fence. The solution: Run the wide 1dimensions shown for the base on smooth the inside of the slot with a file. portion of your workpiece between the page 7. Cut a dado on the bottom side of Set the jig in your tablesaw’s left fence and blade, cutting the strips on the the base for the guide bar, where shown. 3miter-gauge slot. Place the sliding bar side of the blade opposite the fence. You Now, cut the ‡" dado on the top side of in the dado with its left end flush with the could accomplish this by measuring for the base for the sliding bar. base. Slide the jig forward, and mark the

A B C To make a cursor, scribe a line across Size your thin-strip ripping jig to suit your Remove the jig before making the cut so the acrylic indicator with a sharp knife tablesaw, so that a 1" screw in the guide the workpiece doesn’t bind between the and a square. Color the scribed line with bar can contact the blade. Install a zero- rip fence and the screw head. Replace the a permanent marker. Wipe off the excess clearance throat plate to prevent the jig in the slot without making any adjust- ink with a cloth, leaving a fine line. sawn strip from falling into the saw. ments to set up the next cut.

6 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 1 STRIP-RIPPING JIG

Four-arm knob with ‹" insert

EXPLODED VIEW #8 x 1" brass F.H. wood screw

‹" flat washer ˇ" slot

#8 x ‡" F.H. wood screw Œ" 1fi" ¸" shank hole, countersunk INDICATOR on top 1" 1fi" 2" SLIDING BAR 9"

Cursor line A N ‡" dado 17⁄32" deep 1fi" section of steel rule B O ‹ x 1fi x 2" clear acrylic ‡" ‡" C P 2" D Q 6‡" E R ‡" S F ‡" dado ¤" deep G T BASE

H U 3" V I 4" 7⁄64" pilot hole J W 4fi" fi" deep X fi x ‡ x 9" K Y L Z M ‹" hole, countersunk on bottom side fi"

MITER-SLOT GUIDE BAR ‹-20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw

point where a left-leaning sawblade tooth an inexpensive steel rule, align its left end Position your workpiece against the rip touches the bar. Make a second mark fi" with the mark, and attach it with epoxy. fence, and move the fence to bring the left closer to the base. Remove the bar, and Cut a piece of ‹" acrylic to the edge of the workpiece against the screw crosscut it at the second mark. 7 dimensions shown for the indicator. head, as shown in Photo B. Lock the Drill a 7⁄64" pilot hole in the slid- Drill and countersink the two mount- fence, set the jig out of the way, and you’re 4 ing bar, centered on the end you just ing holes, and scribe and mark a cur- ready to cut a strip, as shown in Photo C. cut. Drive a brass screw halfway into sor line, as shown in Photo A. Attach After completing the cut, clean up the the wood.FILENAME:151TablesawJig1.eps (We used brass to avoid any the indicator to the base, and add the knob. workpiece on the jointer. Replace the jig chanceDate: of damaging6-03 a tablesaw blade.) in the slot. Then unlock the rip fence, You’ll Lornaturn J.this screw in or out to fine- Now, cut some strips move it to bring the jointed edge against tune your jig’s basic “zero” setting, or to To cut a thin strip with the jig, place its the screw head, lock the rip fence, remove adjust it for a blade of different thickness guide bar in the left-hand miter gauge slot the jig, and saw another strip. Repeat the or with a different tooth set. on your tablesaw. Loosen the knob, set the process as many times as necessary to From the bottom side of the assembly, cursor to zero (the bottom end of the rule), produce all of the strips that you need for 5 drill and countersink a ‹" hole through and retighten the knob. Slide the jig so that your project. ¿ the miter-slot guide bar and base for the the brass screw head is beside the saw blade. Written by Jim Pollock with Jeff Mertz machine screw that holds the plastic knob. Turn the screw in or out with a screwdriver and Kevin Boyle Sand all of the wood parts to 180 grit, and until the head lightly contacts a left-lean- Illustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson apply three coats of clear finish. ing tooth. Pull the jig toward you, loosen Make a mark 1" from the left end of the knob, set the cursor for the desired strip 6 the sliding bar. Cut the first 1fi" from thickness, and retighten the knob.

woodmagazine.com 7 tablesaw jigs

Four-Sided Tapering Jig Here’s a slick way to taper four sides of a table leg—all with one simple jig.

ou can taper one side of a table leg the groove, with each hole centered in the bottom edge of the blank. Next, drill a ‹" without much head-scratching, groove and fi " from the end. Cut a 3" piece hole centered in the groove 2fi " from the but tapering all four sides equally from each end to make two hold-down rabbeted end. Glue in the 3fi " guide bar Ypresents more of a challenge. With bases. Next, glue one guide bar piece in piece, making it flush with the rabbeted this jig, however, you can cut all four tapers the groove on each hold-down base. After end. After the glue dries, drill a ‹" hole without changing your setup. You simply the glue dries, drill a ‹" hole through each through the blank, using the previously rotate your workpiece between cuts. assembly, using the previously drilled drilled hole as a guide. Trim the blank to Locate the hold-downs to suit the length holes as guides. 3fi " in length. Sand and finish the assembly. of your workpiece. (The pivot block can Cut a maple blank to ‡×2×12" to Assemble the hold-downs as shown. sit at either end of the jig.) If your tablesaw 4make the pivot block. (We begin with 5For the pivot block, file or grind one has a 10" blade, you can handle workpieces an oversized piece to assure safety during edge of the washer flat, as shown on up to 2" thick. the cutting process.) Cut a rabbet on one Drawing 1a, and then assemble the nut, Refer to Sources on page 11 for hard- end of the blank, where shown on Draw- screw, and washer as shown. Adjustable ware for this project. ing 1a. Now, drill two holes to form the up or down in the slot, this screw serves ends of the adjustment slot, remove the as an indexing pin. Once set for a partic- Build the jig material between the holes with a ular workpiece, it guarantees that every For the base, cut a piece of ‡" ply- saw or scrollsaw, and clean up the slot cut in the sequence is an equal distance 1wood to the size shown on Drawing with a file. Cut a ‹" groove centered on the from the center of the workpiece. 1, then cut a piece of ‹" hardboard to the same dimensions. Cut fl " dadoes ‰" deep in one face 2of the plywood, where dimensioned. Glue the hardboard to the dadoed face with yellow glue. Now, clamp the as- sembly between two scraps of plywood to ensure even pressure. After the glue dries, remove the clamps, set your dado blade for a ‹"-wide cut, put an auxiliary fence on your miter gauge, and cut a slot through the hardboard, centered over each plywood dado, as shown in Photo A. Cut a piece of maple to ‹×›×12", 3then cut two 3" pieces and one 3fi " piece from this blank for the guide bars. For the hold-down bases, cut a piece of A B ‡" plywood to 1fi ×12". Cut a ‹" groove After cutting dadoes in the plywood base, Diagonal lines on the end of the workpiece glue the hardboard to the dadoed face. locate the hole that fits onto the indexing down the center of one face of this ply- Mount the two outside blades of a dado pin. Draw the cutline for the final shape, wood, where dimensioned on the drawing. set in your tablesaw, and cut slots through and extend the lines to the edges to help Drill two ‹" holes near opposite ends of the hardboard centered over each dado. you position the workpiece on the jig.

8 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 Four-arm knob 1 EXPLODED VIEW 1" plastic knob with ‹" insert Four-arm knob ‹" flat washer 1" plastic knob ‹" flat washer with ‹" insert ‹ x 1" brass roundhead HOLD-DOWN Clamp PIVOT BLOCK machine screw, ‹" flat washer ‹" flat washer ‹" nylon nut nut, and washer fi" ‹ x 1" brass roundhead HOLD-DOWN Clamp PIVOT BLOCK machine screw, Ç" slot ‡ x 1fi x 3" plywood ‹" nylon nut nut, and washer fi" Ç" slot ‡ x 1fi x 3" plywood ‹" groove ‹ x › x 3" ‰" deep, guide bar ‹" groove centered ‰" deep, centered ‹ x › x 3fi" ‹" groove ‹ x › x 3" 34›" GUIDE BAR ‰" deep, guide bar ‹"‹" groove holes ‹" 20›" ‹ x 3" ‰" deep, centeredŒ" 11›" centered panhead ‹ x 7›"› x 3fi" 34›" GUIDE BAR ‹" slots ‹" holes ‹" 20›" machine screw 12" ‹" deep, ‹ x 3" Œ" 11›" panhead 7›" ‹" slots centered over fl" dadoes machine screw 12" ‹" deep, centered over ‹ x 3" panhead fl"fl" dadoes machine screw ‡" ‹ x 3" panhead fl" 7‰" machine screw ‹ x 12 x 36" hardboard ‡" 11‰" 7‰" A N fl" dadoes ‹ x 12 x20‰" 36" hardboard ‰" deep BASE 11‰" fl" ‡ x 12 x 36" plywood A N B O fl" dadoes P 20‰" fl" ‰" deep BASE ‡ x 12 x 36" plywood 34Ø" B O C D Q 34Ø" C P D Q E R S F E R 1a PIVOT BLOCK S G T F Tap into tapering This jig also serves another purpose, as 3fi" G T To taper a leg, cut your workpieceH to itsU shown in Photo D. When you need to cut a ¨" rabbet ˇ" deep finished length, then rip it to the square3fi"V single taper, mark its start and stop points ¨" I H U dimensions that you want for¨" the rabbet unta- ˇ" deepon the end and edge of your workpiece. ‹" V pered section at the upper end. DrawJ a lineW Remove¨" the indexing pin from the end I ‹" on all four faces to mark where the taperX block, and nest the end of the workpiece in 2fi" fl" W K J will begin. Drill a ‹" centering hole ›" the notch. Align the marks with the edge ‹" hole Y2fi" fl" X deep at the center of the bottom end,L and of the jig, and clamp. Place your hold-downs 2" ‡" K ‹" hole Y add cut lines to show the final dimen-Z against the workpiece. Tighten the pivot 2" M L sions of that end, as shown in Photo B. block in place,‡" and make the cut. ¿ Ç" slot Z Draw cut lines on the face connecting M Ç" slot ‹" washer, the leg-bottom marks with the taper- ‰" ‹" groove filed to allow start marks. This helps you visualize the ‹ x › x 3fi" ‰" deep, nut to engage ‹" washer, GUIDE BAR final shape, and serves as a‰" safety reminder‹" groove filed to allow centered the rabbet as you push the jig across‹ thex › saw. x 3fi" ‰" deep, nut to engage GUIDE BAR centered the rabbet Mount the leg-centering hole on the indexing pin. Slide the pivot block until the planned outside face of the leg aligns with the edge of the jig. Turn the knob to lock the pivot block in place. Now, near the upper end of the leg, align the taper- start cutline with the edge of the jig. Slide 3a PIVOT BLOCK the hold-down blocks against the leg, and tighten the nylon nut on each one to set the 3a PIVOT BLOCK block’s position. Tighten the top knob on FILENAME:151TablesawJig2.eps each hold-down to clamp the leg in place. Date: 6-03 FILENAME:151TablesawJig2.eps Lorna J. RaiseDate: the6-03 saw blade ‹" above the leg. ButtLorna the jigJ. to the fence, move the fence until the saw blade just clears the left side of the jig, and then make the cut, as shown in Photo C. To make each of the three remaining cuts, loosen the hold- C D Hold the taper jig tightly against the The width and adjustability of the taper down knobs, rotate the leg one-quarter tablesaw rip fence as you cut. Before jig allow you to handle a wide range of turn clockwise (as viewed from the pivot- starting each pass, make certain that angle cuts. Here, with the jig flipped end- ing end), reclamp, and cut. your left hand is well away from the line. for-end, we’re shaping a simple leg.

woodmagazine.com 9 tablesaw jigs

Dead-On 90° Crosscut Sled When you build this sled, your accuracy and efficiency at the tablesaw will soar.

reliable tablesaw miter gauge After the glue dries, cut a ‹" groove cen- fence is parallel to the miter gauge slot handles a lot of crosscutting tered on the fl" groove. Then, cut a rabbet before proceeding.) Apply double-faced tasks, but not all. It rides in just along the front of the bottom edge and a tape to the top of each guide bar, and at- Aone slot, and supports the work- fi " groove centered along the top edge. tach the bars to the platform, as shown in piece on just one side of the blade, allow- From ‡" maple, cut the blade guard Photos A and B. Remove the assembly ing for slop. This problem disappears, 3sides and end. Glue and screw the end from the saw, and permanently attach the however, with an accurate crosscut sled. to the sides. Now, screw the blade guard bars with screws. Our design is both inexpensive and sim- to the fence, where shown on Drawing 1. Cut a piece for the stopblock, and cut ple to build. Plus, it includes reliable, Cut the front rail from ‡" maple. Use 7a dado in the back, where shown. Cut adjustable stops for repeatable cuts. From 4a jigsaw to cut a notch, where shown, a guide bar, and glue it into the dado. the moment you put this jig to use at your for the blade to pass through. Attach the Drill a shank hole through the block and tablesaw, you’ll discover that making front rail and the fence to the platform bar, where shown. Now, cut a piece of ‹" right-angle cuts is easier and safer. with screws. acrylic plastic to size for the stopblock in- Cut, sand, and finish two top blade dicator. See Drawing 1b. Drill, saw, and Build a real workhorse 5guard supports. Using a fine-toothed file smooth the slot, where shown. Make Select a flat piece of ‡" plywood, and tablesaw blade, cut a piece of ‹" clear a cursor line, as shown in Photo A. 1cut the platform to the dimensions acrylic to size for the blade guard cover. Remove the top blade guard, sand the shown on Drawing 1. Attach the cover to the supports and the 8jig, and apply three coats of finish. Cut two ½×3×30" maple pieces for the front rail. Reattach the blade guard, assemble and in- 2fence, and cut a fl " groove ‰" deep From ‡" maple stock, cut two strips stall the stopblock, place the crosscut sled in the face of one piece, where shown 6to serve as miter-slot guide bars. Set on your tablesaw, and make a cut from on Drawing 1a. Glue the two blanks your tablesaw rip fence 8¤" to the right the front edge through the fence. Use a together, keeping the edges flush and the of the blade, and lower the blade below rule to set the stopblock 4" from the kerf. groove on the interior of the lamination. the table’s surface. (Note: Make sure your Mark the center of the stop block on its top

A B C Two pennies shim the miter-slot guide Keeping the right end of the platform against Hold the workpiece firmly against the bars slightly above the tablesaw surface. the rip fence, set the sled assembly on fence as you make a cut. Keep your hands Place a couple of these stacks in each the guides. Press down firmly to stick the outside the blade guard, and don’t cut miter-gauge slot, and set the bars on top. bars to the platform. through its end.

10 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2006 1 EXPLODED VIEW #8 x ‡" F.H. wood screw TOP BLADE GUARD ¤" shank hole, #8 x ‡" F.H. countersunk wood screw #8 x ‡" F.H. woodTOP screw BLADE GUARD ¤" shank hole, TOP BLADEcountersunk GUARD ¤" shank hole, countersunk

7⁄64" pilot hole ‡" 6¨" ‹ x 3‹ x 22‡" 30" ‡ x ‡ x 16‹" clear acrylic 7⁄64" pilot hole ‡" supports 7 ‡" ⁄64" pilot hole ‹ x 3‹ x 22‡" 6¨" 2" ‹ x 3‹ x 22‡" 30" FRONT RAIL 6¨" ‡ x ‡ x 16‹" clear acrylic 30" supports ‡ x ‡ x 16‹" clear acrylic supports 2" 7›" ‡ x 18 x 30" FRONT RAIL 2" plywood 6¨" FRONT RAIL 1fl" #8 x 1fi" F.H. 7›" ‡ x 18 x 30" wood screw ‹ x 1 x 1‡" 7›" BLADE GUARD plywood 8¤" ‡ x 18 x 30" 6¨" 1fl" clear acrylic #8 x 1fi" plywoodF.H. 6¨" 1fl" wood screw #8 x 1fi" F.H. ‡" #8 x 1fi" F.H. 3" wood screw ‹ x 1 x 1‡" 8¤" wood screw BLADE GUARD clear acrylic #6 x 1" roundhead‹ x 1 x 1‡" 8¤" BLADE GUARD wood clearscrew acrylic ‡" #8 x 1fi" F.H. 3" ˇ" holes wood screw‡" #8 x 1fi" F.H. 3" ‹" hexhead bolt wood screw #6 x 1" roundhead 1fi" long A N wood screw #6 xˇ" 1" roundhead holes wood screw 3‡" ‹" hexhead bolt ˇ" holes 3‡" B O 1fi" long ‹" hexhead bolt 3" A N Four-arm knob 1fi" long 3‡"Self-adhesive A N P with ‹" insert 3‡" 3‡" C Fence 3‡" measuring rule B O STOPBLOCK 3" 4‡" B O Four-arm knob 3" D Q Four-arm knob Self-adhesive 3‹" P with ‹" insert Self-adhesive C P with ‹" insert Fence measuring rule 1 x 3 x 30" ˇ x ‡ x 18" C E R STOPBLOCK PLATFORM Fence measuring4‡" rule D Q STOPBLOCK miter-slot3‹" guide bars 4‡" D Q S ‡ x 1‹ x 2Í" 3‹" F 1 x 3 x 30" ˇ x ‡ x 18" E R PLATFORM stopblock ‹ x fi x 1‹" 1 x 3 x 30" PLATFORM miter-slot guide bars ˇ x ‡ x 18" E R G T guide bar miter-slot guide bars S ‡ x 1‹ x 2Í" F S stopblock ‡ x 1‹ x 2Í" F ‹#8 x xfi 1fi" x 1‹" F.H. ‹" dado ‹" deep H U stopblock ‹ x fi x 1‹" G T guidewood barscrew Œ" from top edge #8 x fi" F.H. wood screw G T V guide bar I H U #8 x 1fi" F.H. ‹" dado ‹" deep #8 x 1fi" F.H. ‹" dado ‹" deep H U J W wood screw Œ" from top edge #8 x fi" F.H. wood screw V wood screw Œ" from top edge #8 x fi" F.H. wood screw I V X I K J W J W Y L end, align the 4" line on the self-adhesive X 1a FENCE SECTION VIEW 1b INDICATOR DETAIL1‡" K X Z measuring tape with that mark, and attach Y K M Y L the tape in the fence groove. Use tin snips fi" groove „" deep L 1‡" Á" ¤ x fi" slot Z to cut off the portion of the tape extend- (to fit measuring rule) 1‡" M Z 1" M ing beyond the left end of the fence. Place fi" fi" groove „" deep Á" ¤ x fi" slot the indicator on the stopblock, align the fi" groove „" deep ¤ x fi" slot (to fit measuring rule) Ø" Á" cursor with the tape’s 4" line, and attach (to fit measuringŒ" rule) fi" 1" ›" 1" the indicator to the block with a screw. fl" fi" ‹" Score a line on the acrylic with a knife, Œ" Ø" ‹"Œ" groove Ø" and color it with a permanent marker. Now, let’s go sledding fl" ›" ˇ" deep fl" fl" groove ›" If a workpiece fits between‹" the fence Score a line on the acrylic with a knife, ‹" and‰" color deep it with a permanentScore marker. a line on the acrylic with a knife, and the front rail, you‹" can groove cut it on your ¤" rabbet and color it with a permanent marker. ˇ" deep fl" groove‹" groove¤" deep crosscut sled, as shown in Photo C. Use‰" deepˇ" deep fl" groovefi" the stop block to cut¤" multiple rabbet pieces to ‰" deep ¤" deep ¤" rabbet the same length, provided that length fallsfi" Sources¤" deep within the stop block’s range. Remove the For the jigs on pages 5–11,fi" we used these Sources: stopblock when cutting pieces that extend Stainless steel rule no. 06K20.06, $1.40 each; beyond that range. When you install a 1¼" four-arm plastic knob no. 00M55.30, $1.30 each. Call blade of a different thicknessFILENAME:151TablesawJig3.eps or with Lee Valley at 800/871-8158, or go to leevalley.com. a different tooth set than the oneDate: used 6-03 to Lorna J. Hold-down no. 142398, $4.99 (bolt and knob); self- FILENAME:151TablesawJig3.epscalibrate your stopblock, check the set- adhesive rule, no. 08Y42, $9.99. Call Woodcraft at Date:ting 6-03with a rule, and adjustFILENAME:151TablesawJig3.eps the cursor. ¿ 800/225-1153, or go to woodcraft.com. Lorna J. Date: 6-03 Lorna J. woodmagazine.com 11 A trusty pair of tenoning jigs Tenon-Sizer Guidelines When the time comes to figure the tenon The mortise-and-tenon joint offers two major between the holes. Drill a centered pilot hole size, keep in mind the thickness of the advantages: strength and invisibility, making in the notched end and screw a panhead wood you’re working with, the widths of the it ideal for furnituremaking. Shaping the adjustment screw into the hole. The notch in and drill bits you own, and the mating parts requires multiple setups and the stop and the adjustable screw eliminate purpose for which you are using a mortise- various cuts. Tenons alone require two basic the possibility of , altering the loca- and-tenon joint. Consider the basics: cuts: shoulder cuts and cheek cuts. Shoulder tion of the shoulder cut. ■ Apply the rule of thirds. For ‡" stock, cuts establish the length of the tenon; cheek Finally, insert a ‹" machine screw that means making a ‹"-thick tenon with cuts, the tenon’s width and thickness. (See 4through a washer, the fence, and the stop- ‹" shoulders along each side. Drawing 2a.) Zane designed two separate block. Secure it with a small pull knob. Zane ■ Regarding tenon width, make top and jigs for each cut, as shown below and on has added one more feature to this jig. He bottom shoulders the same depth as the page 54. Build both in an hour or two, and installs a ‹" plate of plywood over the base, side shoulders. (Doing this lets you cut all four shoulders using the same saw setup.) get professional results that last a lifetime. but only on the right side of the saw kerf. The ■ For full strength, make tenon lengths as raised surface fulfills two functions: It pre- long as two-thirds the width of the mating Zane’s tenon-shoulder- vents sawdust from getting underneath the mortised workpiece. Err on the side of cutting jig end of your board, which would create an creating more gluing surface. The longer Looking for a jig that cuts crisp, 90º shoul- unwanted angle on the next shoulder cut, and the tenon, the stronger. Application is your ders quickly and accurately? Here’s one that it provides adequate space for small falloffs best guide. In a small picture frame, a short does, thanks, in part, to its adjustable stop- that potentially could bind the blade and “stub” tenon may suffice; where racking block. (See Drawing 2.) Note that the jig result in kickback. may occur, as in a table leg/apron joint, opt rides in the miter slot on the right side of the for the “deeper” tenon prescribed above. saw blade. Putting the jig to work Determine the length of your tenons. Then SAWING SAME-DEPTH SHOULDERS Step-by-step construction slide the stop to the desired location and Referring to Drawing 2, cut all of the tighten it in place. Raise the blade to the 1 parts, except the stopblock, to the dimen- depth of the intended shoulders. (See the sions shown. Drill the ‹" machine screw Tenon-Sizer Guidelines above, right for hole in the fence. more on figuring tenon dimensions.) Now Next, attach the fence to the base with slide the workpiece against the stop edge, 2glue and countersunk screws, flushing it and run it through the blade.3 TENON-SHOULDER-CUTTING Rotate the JIG along the base back edge. Screw this assem- workpiece to cut the remaining edge and bly to the miter gauge, ensuring it protrudes faces as shown in Photo F. Says Zane, “I usu- 1" or more to the right of the miter gauge. ally design my tenons with equal shoulders Next, set the miter gauge and assembly into on all four sides. This way I only have to the miter-gauge groove, raise the saw blade adjust the blade height once.” ‹" above the jig base, and cut through both “One final thought, when cutting the the base and the fence. Use the kerf to guide shoulders, you don’t need to push the jig all you in centering and installing the blade the way through the saw blade. Once the top F cover with screws and2 MORTISE-AND-TENON glue. of theJOINT blade reaches the fence, the shoulder Raise the blade to the establish the needed From ‡" stock, cut a 6" blank ripped to cut is complete.” tenon depth. Then, using the jig, cut shoul- 31‹" wide. With a dado blade, cut the ders on the workpiece faces and edges. ‹×1fi" notch on the bottom edge. Now cut the stopblock to finished length. To form the 2 TENON-SHOULDER-CUTTING JIG 1‹"-long slot used to adjust the jig when cut- ting tenons of various lengths, drill ‹" start Miter gauge mounted to back of fence ¸" shank hole, holes, where shown, and then scrollsaw #8 x 1fi" F.H. wood screw countersunk A N 1fi" ‡ x 2‹ x 14" 7⁄64" pilot hole FENCE ‡" deep B O 1fi x 2 x 4" 2a MORTISE-AND-TENON JOINT 2" BLADE P ‹ x 4 x 9" COVER C PLATE 4" D Q Mortise 4" 1›" Edge cheek ‹" machine E R screw A N 2" long S 1‹" F 9" ‹" washer B O #8 x 1" Face Rail panhead 2‹" G T cheek screw, C P centered 1fi" ‹" hole H U Stile ‹" slot ‹" D Q 1‹" long V I ‹" ›" 4‡" E R Tenon ‡ x 1‹ x 3fi" #8 x 1fi" F.H. W Shoulder ADJUSTABLE S J wood screw F STOPBLOCK X 1‹" ‹ x 4‡ x 14" G T K BASE Y ‹" drawer pull knob 1" or knurled nut fi" U L 58 WOOD magazineWOOD magazine February/March XXXX 20062005 H Z V M I J W X K Y L Z M

FILENAME:168TenonJig.eps Date:11-05 Lorna J.

FILENAME:168Mortise/Tenon.eps Date:11-05 Lorna J. 4 TENON-CHEEK-CUTTING JIG

A Tenon-Sizer Guidelines Tenon-cheek-cuttingN jig B O 3 TENON-CHEEK-CUTTING JIG ‡ x 6 x 12" 2fi" 2‹ x 2fi x 7" One of the trickiest (and potentially most FENCE VERTICAL dangerous)P operations on the tablesaw is C ‡ x 3 x 3" BRACES WORKPIECE making cuts into the end of a board stood 7 ⁄64" pilot hole SUPPORT D Q vertically. The typical tablesaw fence stands fi" deep (Thickness too low to provide adequate support when depends on E R holding the workpiece this way. That’s why 12" thickness/width S of stock F many woodworkers bandsaw these delicate 3" being cut) cuts, and try to sand the cut tenons to perfec- 6" G T tion, or spend more than $100 to buy a com- U 3" H mercial tablesaw tenoning jig. But Zane’s 1fi" tenon-cheek-cuttingV jig provides absolute I Toggle accuracy and safety for the cost of two toggle clamps J clampsW (and free stock from your scrap bin). Height of 1Œ" X tablesaw #8 x 1‹" F.H. K fence wood screws HowY to build the jig L This jig rides on both the fence and saw table, SADDLE asZ shown in Photos G and H. Zane says, “It’s Clearance dimension At least thickness of M Width of to allow for waste pieces tenon x 2fi x 11" absolutely critical that the jig holds the work- tablesaw fence piece firmly. Any flexing will ruin your ten- ons, so I use only ‡" cabinet-grade plywood for the jig’s box and fence assembly.” dates boards of varying widths. The first the workpiece is wide enough, the upper Note: The design shown here is based on a (inside) piece is ‡" thick, the second 2‹". clamp will hold it in place without a spacer, tablesaw fence with parallel sides, such as a Note that these dimensions may vary, as shown in Photo I. Biesemeyer-style fence. If your fence does depending on the dimensions of the stock When cutting tenons, the first cuts you not have this feature, the basic saddle cut. Glue them together, leaving the thicker typically make are the shoulder cuts. As a assembly can be secured to a sliding base piece about 4" shorter than the thinner one. word of precaution, Zane says, “If you set mounted on runners that ride in the miter Glue and screw this assembly to the fence your blade too high on a shoulder cut, you tracks, or a base that slides along the fence. and install the low-silhouette toggle clamps. create a shallow kerf in the tenon that will Using Drawing 3, cut the sides of the (Find these at woodworking specialty stores be totally hidden when the joint is assem- 1saddle to the exact height of your table- or in mail-order catalogs, such as Woodcraft: bled. But if you set the blade too high on the saw fence. Cut the top of the saddle to span 800/225-1153, woodcraft.com.) cheek cuts, you will cut a kerf into the fin- both sides when they sit flush against the ished piece that will be visible where the fence. Glue and screw the top to the sides, Now cut dead-on tenons two pieces of wood are joined.” Keep a ensuring perfect alignment. Set up the jig by adjusting the saw fence to mortised mating piece on hand to test-fit Cut this jig’s fence and bracesFILENAME:168TablesawTenonJig.eps to size, and cut the inside cheek of the workpiece. If you the tenon while fine-tuning your saw set- 2then glue and screw themDate:11-05 to the base. have shoulders of equal depth, you will cut ups. Once you achieve a snug-fitting mor- (The clearance area makesLorna room J. for the all four cheeks without repositioning the tise-and-tenon joint, you’re ready to cut all waste while avoiding binding and kickback fence. When cutting the face cheeks, be sure of the tenons of that size needed for your problems.) Zane advises, “Don’t skimp on to lay the workpiece flush to the fence and project. Set your jigs aside until the next screws. This assembly needs to be rigid and secure it with the lower clamp, as shown in tenoning assignment.¿ dead true.” Photo G. When cutting the edge cheeks, add Finally, cut and glue up the parts for the a spacer board for relatively thin stock and Written by Roger McEvoy Photos by Ken Kneringer 3vertical workpiece support. It accommo- clamp it with the outer clamp (Photo H). If Illus trations: Roxanne LeMoine CUTTING CLEAN, STRAIGHT FACE AND EDGE CHEEKS

Spacer

G H I Only if the jig fits snugly over the tablesaw When cutting edge cheeks, Zane sometimes On wider stock, Zane nixes the spacer and fence and rides smoothly along it will it cut places a spacer between the opposite edge relies on the outer clamp to secure the work- clean, well-proportioned tenon cheeks. and outer clamp to achieve a firm hold. piece when cutting cheeks.

woodmagazine.com 59 tablesaw jigs Spline- Cutting Jig A slight tilt of a saw blade gives your corner splines

a whole new look. 16"

EXPLODED VIEW 4"

9"

#8 x 2" F.H. wood screws 11‹"

90° A N ¸" shank hole, countersunk on back face B O 45° bevels C P D Q t doesn’t take much work to put a new Rip spline stock from the edge of a board cutting saw, or use a dovetail saw fol- E R spin on traditional splined miter joints. of contrasting stock, as shown in Photo B. lowed by a chisel. Sand flush. Just install the splines at an angle, as we Match its thickness to the kerf—usually By varying the number and placement S F Idid above on a maple-and-walnut let- ¤". Then, cut individual splines from the of the corner splines, you can come up G T ter tray, and you get eye-catching results. strips, making them slightly longer than with other designs. You might try differ- First, make the simple spline-cutting jig the slots. Spread yellow glue on the splines, ent saw blade angles, too. ¿ H U for your tablesaw shown above. Then, slip them into place, and let the glue dry. Photographs: Hetherington Photography V mark three evenly spaced spline locations Trim them off at the surface with a flush- I Illustration: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson on a piece of scrap the same width as the J W tray side. X Install a blade in your tablesaw that K Y produces the flattest possible kerf bottom. L (We used an outside blade from our dado Z M set.) Tilt the blade to 15°, and raise it so it extends about halfway into the mitered corner. Set your jig against the tablesaw rip fence, place your marked scrap in the jig, and adjust the fence to cut a test slot. Now make the other slots, readjusting the fence between cuts. When you’re satisfied with the design, place clear packing tape around the work- piece corners to reduce chip-out. Hold the workpiece firmly in the jig, and cut as shown in Photo A. Cut the top slot in A B Double-check the orientation of your work- To cut spline stock, use the thin-strip each corner, adjust the fence, cut all four piece before cutting. Here we’re holding ripping jig (see the how-to details, begin- middle slots, adjust again, and cut the the bottom of the tray to the left, so the ning on page 5) to cut spline stock. bottom slots. Remove the tape. slots will point downward. Reposition the fence between cuts.

18 Best-Ever Woodworking Jigs, Homemade Tools, & Shop Organizers 2008 ADD THE CROWNING TOUCH TO YOUR PROJECTS ARGE·SCALE MOLDINGS Like the gingerbread trim­ mings on a Victorian home, AFEWOFTHE large·scale moldings such as POSSIBILITIES those at right lend stately ele­ gance to projects from curio cabinets to clocks. And sur­ prisingly, you don't need a lot of fancy jigs or tools to CROWN - make them. Come along and Dentil we'll show you how it's done. blOCk lthough large·scale mold­ ­ ings appear complex, A they're actually made up of several easy·to·make smaller CROWN moldings. It's not until you stack MOLDING moldings together that they take on a look of "How did you ever do that?" To help you through the process, we'll show you how to plan the molding and how to shape its large components­ coves, round-overs, bullnoses, and dentiIs-on your tablesaw. Then, BASE you can combine these big pieces MOLDING ANATOMY OF A with smaller, router-made mold­ LARGE-SCALE MOLDING ings for a stunning effect. HOW TO PLAN A LARGE-SCALE MOLDING With the help of the cutaway try browsing through your local moldings: coves (concave drawing above right, you can de­ furniture store for an idea of curves), round-overs (convex sign your own moldings by fol· molding dimensions for pieces curves), bullnoses, and dentils. lowing these guidelines: . similar in size to your project. • You can mix and match these • Depending on the size of your • After determining rise and run, elements until you come up with workpiece, you should first deter­ connect these perpendicular lines a pleasing effect. But, before you mine the rise and run of a de· with an angled pitch line be­ cut and assemble the molding, scending or ascending molding. tween 1So and 40°. make a full-sized cardboard pro­ You want the molding to be in • Now, draw the profile of the file. Hold this pattern in place on proportion with the overall di­ molding, roughly following the your project as a final check of its mensions of the workpiece, nei­ pitch line for a smooth, flowing size and proportion. ther overpowering its design nor look. In this article, we'll show • To help you get started, we've too small to make an impact. This you how to produce these ele­ drawn three more variations as can be a tricky task, so you might ments often found in large-scale shown above.

38 WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 HOW TO CUT COVES WITH YOUR TABLESAW Many large-scale moldings have fairly large coves 1------20I4"'------j plus several 1------19"'------j smaller moldings Backing 1-~-----18·-----~ to enhance this board 1------15~'·-----~ prominent fea· ture. Armed with the step-by-step 1------141f.l" instructions below, you can cut 1-----12%"-----1 any of six different-sized coves 1---"",.----1 shown on the next page. 10' I Before you get to the fun part, w '0' though, you need to build the -:1 simple cove-cutting jig shown at :Eio$=====:j:;t.:t.=:::p~g~!::J %" 20" 23" 26" 30" 33" 3S' 40' 43' right. This will enable you to guide the workpiece at an angle ------21'------1 over the blade. After completing I the jig, attach it to your rip fence. HOLE LAYOUT DETAIL All holes are lIha' diameter 2 After choosing a cove radius, check the chart on the following HOW TO BUILD page for the depth of the cove. A COVE-eUTTING JIG Raise your tablesaw's blade for the prescribed depth of cut, and Screw v.. ,x 1Yz' hex-h,..e:'~d:bo='="~i="'=O_---_:J mark a centerline ooto the table­ hole in auxiliary fence ~ top directly over the saw arbor as lYz'x2' hinge shown be/ow. Replace the saw's screwed into insert, lower the blade below the ends of stock Length of table, and extend the mark across fence the width of the insert.

9/32" hole fa" deep v." hole ~" deep

Length of fence With your blade set for the height of the plus 7" final coving cut, mark the arbor's center on your tablesaw top. Continued WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 39 HANDY GUIDE TO CUTTING COVES WITH A TABLESAW (USING A 10· BLADE)

i •~ f ,xl }xl ,f I ; II 1 ,fit fit 3 Check the chart for the neces­ sary fence angle and fence-to­ •• 11','- %ti •• .. ")(1~ ...... blade offset. After adjusting the jig ,. ,. IV" lV. SIOCtI to the proper angle (see the draw­ 1''''1' '.. •• "...... ing below right for how to do ...... 11',," Iff this), slide it toward the blade un­ •• " .. ".. til you reach the desired fence-to­ ... 'I,,' ... blade offset as shown below. ".. •• "'" "'"

... 2'lfSi' ". •• ... '" '" , l1t)(3\l. 2"/'1' '.. ... •• *)(31'

0 0 ADJUSTING THE -'Il'lJ/VI COVE-CUTTING JIG - Of1set listed on chart I~~ centerline of cove set the au.x.Ulary fence for the fence-to­ Centerline of sawblade blade offset by measuring perpendicu­ _arbor when blade is larly from the fence. raised to cutting depth listed on chart 4 Now, refer again to the chan, Y!---- Cove-cutting jig and cut your stock to size. Be sure . to cut the stock several inches . . •• I--Angle listed on chart long to allow for miter-cutting lat­ ~ .:.:r er. As you can see by looking at the cove profiles below, some re­ :i( o =.i: ..J quire a backing boaed. This back­ o~ ing must be glued on before you cut the cove. It helps you miter and assemble the molding later and can be mOSt any stock. 2· radius

FULL-SIZED COVE PROFILES l1/a· radius

1v.. radius Cove stock

WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 Editor's note: Before taking the 6 To sand the blade marks from 5 EASY STEPS TO next step, make some cuts in the workpiece, make a custom scrap stock to test your results. sanding block by cutting off a A ROUND-OVER slice of the cove profile, and trans­ Equipped with 5 Raise the blade l1J" above the ferring the cove shape to a block the right bit, you saw table, and pass the workpiece as shown in the inset photo be­ can safely rout over the blade as shown be/ow. low. Then, bandsaw the block to round-overs up Continue to raise the blade and shape. As a sanding guide, draw to a :v.." radius. take light cuts until you achieve pencil lines across the cove and But, if you don't the full depth of the cove. You sand the profile with 6O·grit abra· have such a bit, L_~ can use any 10" blade, but we sive until the pencil lines disap­ or want to cut larger round·overs, made our smoothest cuts with an £Car as we're doing be/ow. then try this procedure: SO·tooth, carbide-tipped blade, 1 Now, cut the workpiece to its fi· I First, attach an auxiliary fence of taking no more than ~" of stock nal shape by making 45~ rips in :v.."·or·thicker stock to your rip with each pass. the sequence shown be/ow. fence. Now, mark the desired ra· dius on the end of the stock. 2 set your blade for a 4S··bevel cut and elevate the blade to the necessary height for removing the stock up to the marked radius as shown below. set the workpiece aside, tum on the saw, and care­ fully slide your fence over until the blade cuts about ~" into the auxiliary fence. Tum off the saw and align the fence and work· piece so the blade cuts just out· side the marked radius. When you're satisfied that the cut will fall exactly on the out5ide of the line, make your cut. Masking tape, !()reground, covers the As you sand the cove molding, be care­ unused opening 'in the tablesaw inSert rul to remove only the saw marks. Au)(iliary lence to reduce lhe flying sawdust. Smoolh with 100- and 150·grit papel'5.

Tablesaw fence Cut No.1

Backing board

Cove stock

3 Slide the fence to the side, set your blade at 40·, and align the fence and workpiece for a cut that Note: Cuts 1-3 8145' removes stock up to the marked .---, line. As shown on the next page, Cut No.3 Cut No.4 make a cut with Side A against the fence. Then, flip the work· piece end·for·end, place Side B against the fence, and make an­ other cut. 4 Repeat Step 3 with the blade at 35·, 300, 2S~, 20·, 15·, 10·, and 5·. Continued

WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 41 6 QUICK STEPS TO A BULLNOSE By taking the round-over proce­ ing the 45° dure a few steps funher, you can and 40° cu1s,,'2:--..J,," make a bullnose profile such as repeat Steps 3-6 with the blade at the onc shown above. These large 35',30',25',20',15',10', and 5'. bullnoses also make an attractive Then, transfer the radius to a edge on counters and tabletops. sanding block and bandsaw it to Just mark the radius on the end shape as described in Step 5 at of a workpiece and follow the 6­ left. Smooth the facets with 60-, step procedure below. After mak· 100·, and ISO-grit abr.asivcs.

Auxiliary fence

HOW TO Face CREATE THE GRACEFUL BULLNOSE For the second 40' cut, nip the work- End A piece end fOr end and place Side 8 againsl the fence.

5 Now, make a sanding block for smoothing out the facets. Start by marking the same radius on a 6", Step 5 long block of wood as shown be­ low. After bandsawing along the marked line, apply 6O-grit adhe· sive-backed sandpaper to the 8003 8003 block and sand the facets.

Step 6 Step 3 Repeat Steps 3lhrough 6 m in 5' wl! increments EodA

Transfer the radius of your round-over 40' bevel 40' bevel to a sanding block. then handsaw the block to shape.

Round-over stock Backing boa

11/2" radius 2" radius ~" radius 1'radius 11,4' radius

FULL-SIZED ROUN[).()VER PROFILES

42 WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 ADD STATELY ELEGANCE WITH THE DENTIL PROFILE As you can see by looking at the ing pin and Cut a notch into the molding on pages 38 and 39. these workpiece. Place this notch over projections help create a statelyI the indexing pin and make anoth­ architectural Quality. Demits work er CUL Repeat this process along best when combined with a large the length of the workpiece as x cove molding. shown below. Typically, a dentil has square teeth separated by a distance equal to the width of each tooth as shown by dimension X in the drawings at right and below. For furniture, X normally equals :Ml" to ¥

Written by 8i11 Krier with Jim Boelling and Jim Downing IIIustr.nions: Kim Downing; Mike flenry PhOt<>gr.lphs: nob Calmer

WOOD MAGAZINE JANUARY 1991 43