Building “Classic” Ilur Sail and Oar Dinghy 4.44 M Long Clinker and Strip Planking Versions

Building “classic” Ilur Sail and oar dinghy 4.44 m long Clinker and strip planking versions

Customer name:

Plan number: ILR -

© François Vivier – January 2016 François Vivier Architecte Naval – SARL au capital de 8 000 € - Siren : 451 456 669 RCS Saint Nazaire 7, avenue des Courtils, 44380 Pornichet - FRANCE tel : 33 (0)6 74 54 18 60 or 33 (0)2 28 54 97 86 - e-mail: [email protected] – www.vivierboats.com January 2016 Building classic Ilur Page 2/22

1. List of documents

Important: since March 2011, there is 2 different plan packages for Ilur: • The “classic” Ilur which allows to build Ilur either with a clinker or strip planked hull, with or without the help of full size polyester full size patterns. • The new “clinker–kit” Ilur which, as the title says, is clinker built from a plywood cut kit marketed by several boat-builders partners. This new version has plywood transverse bulkheads instead of traditional steam bent or laminated frames. The interest of this version is to be easier to build and to allow a 25% saving in working time.

1.1. The present manual

1.2. Appendices Numb Rev Title Date Pages 1 8 Timber list 27 May 2014 4 2 6 Plywood panels list 11 December 2012 8 3 3 Plywood panels list (strip planking version) 30 August 2007 3 4 4 Fittings list 27 May 2014 4

1.3. “Wooden boatbuilding” sheets (mainly in French) These documents are extracts from my book on wooden boat construction, “Construction bois les techniques mod- ernes” (in French). Though only a few are presently translated, equivalent information in English is available from other sources. For example, the websites of epoxy suppliers give comprehensive information in regard to saturation, gluing, filleting, and sheathing.

Numb Rev Title Date Pages 05 0 Imprégnation époxy 25 sept. 03 2 06 0 Collages et joints congés 14 octobre 03 2 07 0 Stratification sur bois 15 novembre 03 4 08 0 Imprégnation et collage : solutions par temps froid 12 novembre 03 3 12 1 Rivets à bateaux 15 novembre 03 2 15 1 Scarfs des panneaux de contreplaqué 9 novembre 03 2 16 0 Pièces en lamellé-collé 30 décembre 03 4 22 0 Montage de la structure sur chantier 8 avril 04 8 31 1 Bordé en petites lattes 19 juin 04 5 41 0 Brochetage d’un bordé 30 décembre 03 3 43 0 Tenue provisoire des clins 6 novembre 03 1 44 2 Lapstrake fitting 4 December 2006 3 62 0 Membrures ployées à la vapeur 28 janvier 03 4 63 2 Membrures lamellées-collées in-situ 28 octobre 05 4 71 0 Bancs et planchers 7 octobre 03 1 72 0 Gouvernail à safran relevable 17 octobre 03 1 81 0 Mâts et espars ronds 17 octobre 03 3 82 0 Le gréement au tiers ou de misainier 10 octobre 03 3 91 0 Peintures et vernis 18 novembre 03 3

This document is the property of François Vivier Architecte Naval. It shall not be copied, transmitted to any other person, nor published as a whole or partly, without the written consent of the architect. January 2016 Building classic Ilur Page 3/22

1.4. Plans (A3 format booklet) Numb Rev Title Scale Date 01 0 Lines plan (outside planking) clinker version 1/12 1 Dec 2003 02 0 Lines plan (outside planking) strip version 1/12 13 Dec 2003 03 1 Stations dimensions, clinker version 1/10 29 Jan 2016 04 3 Transom and stem, clinker version 1/10 29 Jan 2016 05 0 Stations dimensions, strip planking version 1/10 23 Jan 2004 06 1 Transom and stem, strip planking version 1/10 18 Feb 2004 07 0 Sheer-strake dimensions, strip planking version 1/15 7 Mar 2004 11 2 General arrangement plan 1/15 19 Jun 2013 12 3 Building frame 1/15 21 June 2006 21 2 Backbone structure various 27 Jan 2013 22 3 Aft structure 1/10 30 Jun 2006 23 4 Fore structure (misainier or standing lug version) 1/10 8 Sept 2008 24 5 Fore structure (sloop version) 1/10 28 Jan 2016 25 1 Centreboard and centreboard case 1/10 28 Oct 2005 26 1 Rudder 1/10 19 May 2008 27 0 Rudder blade outline 1/2 9 January 2016 28 0 Rudder outline 1/2 9 January 2016 31 1 Sail plan "misainier" rig or standing lug 1/30 28 Oct 2005 32 2 Lug sail sloop rig 1/30 14 Oct 2012 33 1 Sloop rig converted into balance lug 1/30 14 Oct 2012 34 0 Sail mark 1/1 30 Jan 2004 35 2 Mast and spars (misainier or sloop rig) 1/20 14 Oct 2012 36 0 3 meters rowing oars 1/10 31 Jan 2004 37 0 2.9 m sculling oar 1/10 30 Oct 2005 41 0 Balanced lug rig 1/30 28 Oct 2005 43 1 Sail plan lug yawl rig 1/30 21 Apr 2014 44 1 Aft arrangement for yawl rig 1/10 21 Apr 2014 51 1 Bowsprit iron 1/1 14 Oct 2012

2. Main characteristics

2.1. Dimensions

Hull length 4.44 m Waterline length 4.10 m Breadth 1.70 m Depth 0.68 m Draught (centreboard up) 0.25 m Draught (centreboard down) 0.86 m ISO Light weight (clinker) 300 kg ISO Light weight (strip planking) 340 kg Sail area standing lug 12.2 m² Sail area lug yawl 12.4 m² Sail area sloop 14 m²

Note: the ISO light weight includes the full rig (standing lug option), anchoring line and basic mooring equipment. This weight may vary according to plywood and timber choice. Thus, it is recommended to weight the boat prior ordering the trailer. Add 11 kg for the sloop version. It is possible to save 10 kg with a reduced thickness of floorboards (see appendix 1).

2.2. Boat presentation Ilur was designed after Aber, in order to get a larger boat, able to family day sailing. It can be used for fishing and even coastal cruising. Two Ilur have been to Ile of Sein, at the extreme West of France, one of the worst place to go with tremendous tides and sea conditions. However, do not consider this as an invitation to go there ! Length was increased by 20 cm only, but Ilur is mostly wider and higher, with a generous freeboard. This makes a very different boat, with good seakeeping ability, but still in the sail and oar spirit. Its superior quality makes Ilur my best-seller plan (with nearly thousand copies sold). It has been built in many places, from the very heart of Alps, to Pacific islands! If you have to choose the best boat for your intended use, just notice than Ilur is not as an easygoing rowing boat compared to others of my sail and oar designs. She is mainly intended for sail, oars being used when wind is falling or to reach some narrow inlets. The dagger-board was initially preferred in order to give room for crew. It is now replaced by a pivoting centreboard and a low centreboard case which is not at all cumbersome. Many other improvements are continuously brought. As an example oars may be stowed under floorboard, leaving a free cockpit when sailing. Ilur was designed at first with the simple lug sail in the Breton style (said “misainier” rig). A lug sloop rig is now proposed and is a valuable option. A balanced lug rig (lug sail with boom) is an other option, interesting for river or single-handed sailing. Construction is either strip planked or plywood clinker. In both cases, laminated or steam bent frames give a very traditional and beautiful looking.

2.3. Compliance to regulations

WARNING Ilur is a boat that may capsize. Thus it is important: to be equipped in order to withstand immersion into water, to be prepared to right the boat, to be always vigilant, to carry the sail appropriate with the wind and the sea state, particularly if no external assistance can be brought

Ilur is designed in compliance with the requirements of the European Recreative Craft Directive 1994/25/CE amended 2003/44/CE. It is designed to sail in the following categories: ✔ In category C, with a maximum of 3 persons on board (maximum loading 275 kg) ✔ In category D, with a maximum of 5 persons on board (maximum loading 425 kg) The minimum crew is one person, as the boat may be right up by one person only in calm sea conditions. It is recommended to be at least two on board when sailing in poor wind and sea conditions or away from any possible assistance. Attention : it is recommended to keep on board a piece of cloth to be inserted into centreboard case in order to avoid water entry after capsize and ease bailing out. Ilur may receive a motor of maximum power 4.4 kW / 6 hp (long of short shaft). A 2 to 3 hp motor is preferable, being lighter and easier to handle.

The definition of these categories is pointed out below: Category C (Inshore): designed for trips in coastal waters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and rivers where conditions up to, and including, wind force 6 and significant wave heights up to, and including, 2 m may be experienced. Category D (Sheltered waters): designed for voyages in close coastal waters, small bays, lakes, rivers and canals where conditions up to and including wind force 4 and maximum wave heights up to and including 0,3 m may be experienced. NOTE: The significant wave height is the mean height of the highest one third of the waves, which approximately corresponds to the wave height estimated by an experienced observer. Some waves will be double this height.

3. Right of use and general information

3.1. Right of use The purchase of plan gives the right to build one unit, by an amateur builder. The plan can be sold only by the naval architect (François Vivier) or authorised partners. Plans, comprising the present manual and all the attached documents listed on page 2, are the property of the architect. Except for the needs of construction, the documents may not be reproduced, transmitted to a third party, nor published entirely or partly, without written authorization from the architect.

3.2. Plan number The plan number, registered on the front page of this manual, is specific to the purchaser and must be recalled in any correspondence with the architect. Please inform the architect when the boat is first launched, and of change of address or ownership while building.

3.3. Liability of the builder Ilur was designed with care and in full compliance with the European regulations. However, each boat is built under the whole responsibility of its builder, and sails under the whole responsibility of its crew. Both the archi - tect and the kit seller (if any) decline any liability in regard to people, legal entities, and property resulting from construction and/or from use of a boat built from the plans.

1.1. Respect of the weights, scantlings, materials, and buoyancy

Amateur builders should be careful to note the necessity of respecting the plans and specifications, especially scantlings and choice of materials, so that the boat does not become too heavy. Such extra weight would make it less seaworthy, more difficult to launch and retrieve, and would involve a risk of overloading the road trailer. Conversely, it is strongly dis-advised to reduce scantlings or to use materials of lower quality. Respecting the specifications concerning volumes of buoyancy is an essential condition for compliance with EC regulations.

3.4. E-mail assistance If you encounter difficulties during construction, or if you have suggestions to make, please feel free to contact the architect (preferably by e-mail or phone). Specify the number and the date of the plan (see front page). We will answer your questions and, if necessary, update the plans to benefit other builders.

François Vivier Architecte Naval 7, avenue des Courtils – 44380 Pornichet - France tél : 33 (0)6 74 54 18 60 or 33 (0)2 28 54 97 86 e-mail : [email protected] www.vivierboats.com

Note: I am always happy to receive pictures and news about the boats I have drawn !

3.5. Supplies, kit

The NC cut plywood kit can be acquired from approved partners (see my web site). Some of them are also able to supply other materials: sawn timber, fittings, sails, outboard motor, trailer. I have observed that to buy a kit allows the amateur builder to avoid bad surprises, un-compliant purchases, high delivery costs and generally is a cheaper and easier way that to try to source all different materials and equipments.

4. Choice of construction method and rig

4.1. Construction method

Ilur may be built either in clinker plywood (9 mm thick ply) or in strip planking (15 mm thick). On demand, I may also provide instructions to build the boat with traditional clinker (timber strakes and rivets). The following table gives the advantages (as well as drawbacks) of each method:

Clinker plywood Strip-planking Lighter (about 40 kg), easier to launch and recover. Heavier and more stable and comfortable when sail- Able to carry more load, for example to take on ing with a small crew, in particular single handed. board camping equipment. The material is not sensitive to temperature and Strip planks are true wood. The hull may be var- moisture variations. A plywood boat is very tolerant to nished, even over a thin epoxy glass sheathing which trailering, long and alternate period in water and improve resistance to abrasion and weather. ashore... Clinker planking gives an aesthetic effects in the Strip planking give a look very close to a traditional spirit of northern Europe tradition as well a large ves- carvel built boat. sels service boats. The clinker boat is easier and quicker to built, with With strip planking, you keep the pleasure to work few temperature and moisture content constraints. timber.

Going into more detail, there is three different solutions concerning frames. We give hereunder some element to make a choice:

Laminated frames fitted first Laminated frames fitted after Steam bent frames planking Description: frames are laminated Description: the hull is made first Description: the hull is made first at very first stage and laid down using temporary station moulds. using temporary station moulds. on the building before planking. Then frames are laid down into the Then frames (acacia or oak) are Some frames are reinforced by hull. Station moulds are used as heated into a steam box and partial plywood bulkheads patterns to laminate the frames. forced into the hull in the traditional (crosshatched on the structure way. plan). Interest: only for strip planked Interest: mainly suited for clinker Interest: Suited for both clinker and hull. construction. strip planking construction. It is possible to screw down the It is a good alternative solution to It is a traditional method, fast if you strips into frames (no temporary steam bent frames if you do not have already the steam box and screwing). The hull may be epoxy have appropriate timber or you timber (to be green or with a high sheathed on the outside face be- want to avoid the use of a heating moisture content). It is the best fore turning over. apparatus. way for professional builders. Frames may be laminated into a The attachment between frame The attachment between frames small room which may be more and planking is made by either and planking is to made preferably easily heated in winter. screws of rivets. by rivets. Frame scantling is heavier, giving a more traditional look. The construction is sturdier. Precautions: it is recommended to Precautions: At least last two fore use full size polyester patterns to frames are to be cant frames (not get a good precision. perpendicular to keel) to ease lay down.

4.2. Rigs Ilur is proposed with 4 rig versions, all with a lug sail. Note that the lug sail is always rigged on the same side of mast and is not changed when tacking. This is why such sail is said “standing lug”. When the yard is highly peaked, as on Ilur, there is very little performance loss when the sail is on the wind side of the mast. The following table gives the advantages (as well as drawbacks) of each ones:

Standing lug or Sloop lug rig Balanced lug Lug yawl “misainier” Plan 31 Plan 32 Plan 41 Plan 43 It is a typical traditional With both a mainsail Also yacht inspired. A different and beauti- rig of South Brittany for and a jib, this rig is more I have highlighted this ful look, also used on small fishing boats. yacht like than work characteristics with a some traditional boats. boat. cross cut sail. Very simple and cheap: This rig is more familiar A little less simple than The mizzen may be one halyard, one sheet. for those used to mod- the standing lug sail, kept hoisted when The sail is loose footed, ern rigs. The jib lets the this rig is suited to in- rowing, helping to so your head is always crew, and in particular land water for his abil- maintain the boat safe. children, to take part to ity to tack and gibe. course and reducing boat handling. It is also a good rolling at sea. choice for single handling sailing. Contrarily to common Good multi-purpose rig. More efficient than the The mainsail has a feel, it is an efficient rig, There is no need of a standing lug, it does better aspect ratio and including to windward. pole as the sail is not require a pole then gives excellent The only drawback is the boomed. when reaching... but windward perform- sail area limitation, then There is two mast steps take care of the boom ances. giving limited speed in positions, giving the and your head! The main sheet thumb light winds. But in that ability to sail with the lug cleats are at helms- case, the oars are the only, for example is you man hand, then tack- best! are alone. ing is easier (as there When reaching, it is re- is no need to touch the commended to use a mizzen sheet). pole to unfold the sail and avoid rolling. It is easy to low the mast With this rig, Ilur is more Almost as simple as Of course the mizzen when pulling the oars. As a sail boat than a “sail the standing lug, it is add 3 spars and addi- a rule, the mast repres- and oars” as it is less also convenient for tional ropes on board, ent as much drag to wind easy to lower the mast “sail and oar” use. which may be leaved than the hull. That is why for rowing. ashore when sailing in on a sail and oar boat, it Pulling oars may be re- heavy wind. is so important to low the placed by a single scull mast when rowing. oar.

4.3. Building time, tools It is difficult to give an estimate of the time of construction, so much this one varies from one builder to another, according to the experience possibly gained during former constructions. The tools you have at disposal and you are able to master influence the working time. Some boats are true works of art, others are rather of simple and rustic style. The cutting up of timber takes also time which could be sub-contracted. The purchase of a light combined planer is not justified for the clinker version which largely calls upon plywood. Such a device can economically prove profitable for the strip planked version. For the remainder, only basic portable tools are necessary: drill, screw driver, jigsaw, electric plane (especially for mast and spars), without forgetting a good quantity of screw clamps. The clinker version is faster to build than the strip planking. Minimum building time is about 500 hours for the clinker version. Add about 100 hours for the strip planking version. Construction time may be doubled for a first construction project and if you want a high quality finish. These times are complete, including rig, fitting and painting. To build yourself such a boat supposes that you are looking mainly for the satisfaction of a beautiful work, without being to much worried by time constraint.

5. Full size patterns

These patterns give the shape of station moulds, stem and transom with bevels, rudder, tiller, etc..., including strakes for the clinker version. The support is a polyester film, very resistant to tearing and not subject to humidity variations. Marking are to be transferred to the plywood sheets. For that purpose, you may use a screwdriver grinded to form a spike. With a hammer, the wood is marked through the film. You may also use carbon paper spread between film and plywood. An other very efficient method is to use a tracing wheel as used by dressmakers :

The patterns offer up the following advantages: ✔ Reduction of the risk of construction error and improvement of the assembly accuracy. ✔ Reduction of the construction time: you will save the time of marking many parts from scaled down drawings ; no need to make strakes patterns in the traditional way (for the clinker version). ✔ Compared to kit, may be sent easily worldwide. Polyester patterns are delivered in a resistant tube and are to be ordered from François Vivier Architecte Naval SARL according to current price list.

6. Summary of the construction process

Before starting the construction, the general process of which is presented in the following pages, it is important to read the whole manual and plans for a good overall comprehension. That remains true at all stages. A good prepara - tion will avoid errors, sometimes not easily retrievable, and will save time. The general process is as follows :

Clinker Strip planking Strip planking over station moulds over station moulds over laminated frames

A AG AM

Building ✔ Cut out station moulds. ✔ Making out stem and Making out stem and transom. transom ✔ Setting up of all these elements on the building frame ✔ Setting up of these elements on the building frame

B BC BL BL

Planking ✔ Lapstrake planking ✔ Planking with timber ✔ Planking with timber strips with plywood. strips ✔ External completion of the ✔ External completion of ✔ External completion of hull : false-stem, skeg, false the hull : false-stem, the hull : false-stem, keel.... skeg, false keel.... skeg, false keel.... ✔ Epoxy sheathing of the hull

C C C

Interior as- ✔ Roll over the hull. ✔ Roll over the hull. sembly ✔ Fit frames into the hull ✔ Completion: thwarts, seats, floorboards, rub-rails... ✔ Completion: thwarts, seats, floorboards, rub-rails...

D D

Rig and fit- ✔ Making rudder and centreboard tings ✔ Making mast, spars and oars. Lay down fittings and rig. The tasks of chapter D are independent of the general building schedule. They may be done at any moment, giving some freedom to organize construction taking in account available space and climate constraints. Take note of the letter which are used to number the paragraphs. According to chosen options, the above table points out the applicable paragraphs. Note that some “secondary options” are also to be chosen and are described only in the following pages, in particular:

Main option Secondary option Construction over station Laminated or steam bent frames moulds Strip planking Epoxy sheathing of the outside face of planking or not Clinker Glued (with temporary screws) or riveted (with epoxy impregnation afterwards) All Construction from drawing only, from polyester patterns or from kit. In order to avoid mistakes, we suggest to cross out non applicable paragraphs as soon as you have made your choice.

7. Chronological description of the construction

The construction of Ilur is described in a chronological way. At each paragraph, we show on the left the applicable drawings, appendices, wooden boatbuilding sheets. The description which follows is based on the assumption of a construction using plans/drawings only. If you have polyester patterns, marking and/or cutting tasks are simplified.

AG – Construction on station moulds: building frame

AG-1 Make station moulds Plan 3 or 5 Station moulds are made of ordinary plywood or chipboard panels 12 mm thick. They have to be extended down to the baseline (at 700 mm above waterline). They are marked and cut out according to plans, including notches for the keel (and even keel + stem or keel + transom knee). Draw a line at 420 mm from centreline to ease lateral positioning. It is also advisable to cut out holes in the moulds (see appendix 2) to facilitate access under the hull (to clean out glue smears or to set down rivets) and to fasten hull planks with clamps.

AG-2 Prefabrication of stem and transom knee/sternpost Plan 04 or 06 Mark in full size, on a light plywood sheet, the stem profile. Cut-out the plywood to get a stem pat- Plan 21 tern. Make the stem as shown on plan 21 (3 layers). Note that it is preferable to extend the stem up to the transversal beam shown on plan 12 (building frame) for proper holding during construction. Plan 12 This extra length will be cut out after hull turning over. Use the stem as a mould to laminate the false stem which will be screwed down after planking. Draw on the stem the bevel lines on fore face and on sides. Rough out the bevels. Take care not to bevel above the sheer line. Plane out the face on which the keel will be glued. The transom knee (also said sternpost) is made in the same way. It is made of two layers only.

AG-3 Transom prefabrication Plan 04 or 06 The transom is made of timber battens glue together. Apply the same principle of wood ring alternating as shown on sheet 31 for strip planking. The inner profiles is given on plans (as well as on patterns). So you may cut directly along the marking line. Wood will be taken off when bevelling. A notch is be cut-out for keel end. An alternative way is to make the transom in plywood, preferably sapele, mahogany or sipo, gluing together two layers 10 mm thick.

AG-4 Building frame setting Plan 12 Set-up the building frame, made of two wooden stocks of any other equivalent solution, as per plan 12.

AG-5 Scarf of plywood panel for hull planking (clinker only) Appendix 2 It is practical to use the building frame as a support for scarfing panels, especially if you are short is Sheet 15 space. Scarf the panels two by two, making 4.9 m long about panels. The strakes will be outlined either by traditional spiling or simply from polyester patterns. Patterns take in account a strake overlap of 24 mm about. Add at each end about 20 mm in length which will be levelled with transom aft face and stem fore face after full planking of the hull. The recommended scarf length is 70 mm for a 9 or 10 mm plywood.

AG-6 Building frame erecting Plan 12 Put on the building frame: Fiche 22 ✔ The station moulds. They does not require any beveling. They are located on the fore side of stations marks 1 to 4, and on the aft side of station marks 5 to 9. ✔ The stem which is resting into the station 9 notch and on the transverse beam. Note that the stem is extended up to station 8 in order to support the sloop mast step but is not in contact with this mould (frame width space).

✔ The transom and transom knee which are to be very precisely positioned. Two set squares (see plans 04 or 06) are provided for that purpose and are to placed against the station mould 1, at each sides of transom knee. ✔ The keel which is to be made narrower at ends. The slot for the centreboard is also to be cut- out on the work bench. Take care that this slot does not extend up to the fore end of case, but only up to the oblique line shown on plans 23 or 24. Screw down and glue the keel on the stem and transom knee. Screws must be temporary or located in order not to prevent further bevelling of the keel (mostly forward). It is preferable to work on a building frame as rigid and precise as possible. So do not hesitate to add as many reinforcing battens and square as you feel satisfied. These are not shown on plan 12. Double check all dimensions and straitness before starting planking process. This is essential for the final quality of the boat.

AM – Construction strip planking on laminated frames : building frame

AM-1 Making laminated frames Plan 5 This applies only to strip planking construction. Plan 22 If the boat is built over frames (instead of station moulds), frames are laminated. Frames are made of 9 layers, 3 mm thick and 30 mm wide. Thus, the final width, after gluing and planing is 28 mm Plan 23 or 24 about. Fiche 16 Frames are to be bevelled, both outside to receive planking and inside to receive the seat riser. Ad- Fiche 06 ditional layers are required to bevel,and keep approximately the same frames moulding, as follows: Station 1 11 layers Station 2 11 layers Station 3 10 layers Station 4 9 layers Station 5 9 layers Station 6 10 layers Station 7 11 layers Station 8 12 layers Station 9 13 layers Full size patterns give the bevel. Otherwise, when all frames are set up on the building frame, use a temporary fore and aft batten to determine the required bevel. Frames are made in one single part (except stations 1 and 9), from one side to the other one. They have to be extended down to the base line of the building frame. Both end are linked with a span, maintaining proper opening and allowing to fasten over the building frame girders. Mark these span at 420 mm from centreline to allow longitudinal alignment of frames. Frames 5 and 6 will be cut out only when the centreboard case will be inserted. Floors and plywood bulkheads are glues and screwed to frames.

AM-2 Prefabrication of stem and transom knee/sternpost Plan 06 Mark in full size, on a light plywood sheet, the stem profile. Cut-out the plywood to get a stem pat- Plan 21 tern. Make the stem as shown on plan 21 (3 layers). Note that it is preferable to extend the stem up to the transversal beam shown on plan 12 (building frame) for proper holding during construction. Plan 12 This extra length will be cut out after hull turning over. Use the stem as a mould to laminate the false stem which will be screwed down after planking. Draw on the stem the bevel lines on fore face and on sides. Rough out the bevels. Take care not to bevel above the sheer line. Plane out the face on which the keel will be glued. The transom knee (also said sternpost) is made in the same way. It is made of two layers only.

AM-3 Transom prefabrication Plan 06 The transom is made of timber battens glue together. Apply the same principle of wood ring alternating as shown on sheet 31 for strip planking. The inner profiles is given on plans (as well as on patterns). So you may cut directly along the marking line. Wood will be taken off when bevelling. A notch is be cut-out for keel end. An alternative way is to make the transom in plywood, preferably sapele, mahogany or sipo, gluing together two layers 10 mm thick.

AM-4 Building frame erecting Plan 12 Put on the building frame: Fiche 22 ✔ The frames. They are located on the aft side of stations marks 1 to 4, and on the fore side of station marks 5 to 9. ✔ The stem which is resting into the station 9 notch and on the transverse beam. Note that the stem is extended up to station 8 in order to support the sloop mast step but is not in contact with this mould (frame width space). ✔ The transom and transom knee which are to be very precisely positioned. Two set squares (see plan 06) are provided for that purpose and are to placed against the station mould 1, at each sides of transom knee. ✔ The keel which is to be made narrower at ends. The slot for the centreboard is also to be cut- out on the work bench. Take care that this slot does not extend up to the fore end of case, but only up to the oblique line shown on plans 23 or 24. Screw down and glue the keel on the stem and transom knee. Screws must be temporary or located in order not to prevent further bevelling of the keel (mostly forward). It is preferable to work on a building frame as rigid and precise as possible. So do not hesitate to add as many reinforcing battens and square as you feel satisfied. These are not shown on plan 12. Double check all dimensions and straitness before starting planking process. This is essential for the final quality of the boat.

BC – Lapstrake planking with plywood

BC-1 Lapstrake fastening Sheet 44 Choose one of the the following methods: Sheet 12 ✔ Glued lapstrakes with temporary screws (sheet 44) ✔ Riveted or clenched lapstrakes (sheet 12) if you prefer the aesthetic traditional aspect of rivets.

BC-2 Lapstrakes lay down (with full scale patterns) Sheet 43 Lapstrakes are cut at final shape and do not require any adjustment. The opposite plank (other Sheet 44 side) is to be made identical. Sheet 12 The general process is as follows (see details in sheets 43 and 44): ✔ Lay down temporarily the plank according to marks / angles on the station moulds and according to “previous” plank. The normal value of overlap is 24 mm. But to cope with the unavoid- able inaccuracy, the actual overlap may vary between minimum 10 mm (locally) and 30 mm. ✔ Make end chamfer as per sheet 44 § 4. ✔ Mark and plane the chamfer on the “previous” plank full length. ✔ Glue the plank ✔ Repeat with the opposite plank. It is preferable to plank progressively both sides to avoid any hull distortion. Note that the first plank (garboard) must cover the keel up to centreline. It will be covered afterwards by the false-keel. Tip: when 2 strakes per side are glued, it is preferable to stop planking process and to fit the skeg and plane out the garboard to receive the false keel. The bilge-keels may also be laid down after the fifth plank is glued (see next paragraph). Option: the sheerstrake (last plank) may be made of timber instead of plywood. This will allows to have it varnished.

BC-3 Lapstrakes lay down (traditional method) Sheet 41 Planks are laid down according to traditional method as follows: Sheet 43 ✔ Spil each plank, according to sheet 41 ✔ Cut-out, present, adjust.

Sheet 44 ✔ Make end chamfers (sheet 44) ✔ Mark and plane the chamfer (22 to 24 mm) to receive the following plank Sheet 12 ✔ Lay down the plank according to chosen fastening method. ✔ Repeat with the opposite plank. It is preferable to plank progressively both sides to avoid any hull distortion. Note that the first plank (garboard) must cover the keel up to centreline. It will be covered afterward by the false-keel. Tip: when 2 strakes per side are glued, it is preferable to stop planking process and to fit the skeg and plane out the garboard to receive the false keel. The bilge-keels may also be laid down after the fifth plank is glued (see next paragraph). Option: the sheerstrake (last plank) may be made of timber instead of plywood. This will allows to have it varnished.

BC-4 External completions of the hull Plan 21 To do before turning over the hull: ✔ Lay-down the false stem. Shape it on the bench, leaving a 18 mm width flat surface on the fore end (a little more than the metal keel band). Adjust, glue and screw in place from outside. ✔ Laminate the skeg if not already done. ✔ Lay-down the hardwood false keel. ✔ Lay down bilge keels to protect the hull when aground. They are to be cut-out to shape from timber. Make a pattern with light plywood to get the hull camber. ✔ Saturate all plywood strakes edges with epoxy resin. Repeat as necessary to get a good protection. ✔ Screw down the brass, bronze or stainless steel keel band on full length, from stem-head to lower rudder pintle. There is two keel bands in way of centreboard slot. Use stainless steel screws.

BC-5 Turning over and just after Sheet 05 Be very careful for turning over. Check available space and resistance of hanging points. It is better to have many hands to help and a good coordination. After turning over, wedge the boat, checking that is is not twisted before resuming work. If you have used rivets, then it is time to clench them. Then apply epoxy on the inside seams.

BL – Strip planking process

BL-1 Strip planking Fiche 31 The sheet 31 describes the planking process. Strip planks are glued to frames and screwed to Plan 07 stem and transom. Use screws or nails into frames, every 3 strips, to get a good bond. If you intend to varnish the hull, the best is to use coper rivets. Annexe 1 The first step is to fit the sheer-strake (see draft profile on plan 07). It is preferable to make a light plywood pattern before cutting the timber. Then fit all strip planks up to centreline. It is not necessary to get a good fit between both sides planking at centreline, as it is possible to fill with epoxy putty. This area is later covered by the false keel.

BL-2 External completions of the hull Plan 21 To do before turning over the hull: Fiche 07 ✔ Lay-down the false stem. Shape it on the bench, leaving a 18 mm about width flat surface on Fiche 08 the fore end (a little more than the metal keel band). Adjust, glue and screw in place from outside. ✔ Plane the planking horizontal at centreline to receive the false keel and skeg. The centreboard slot is to cut-out in advance. ✔ Laminate the skeg if not already done. ✔ Lay-down the hardwood false keel. ✔ If you build over laminated frames, sheath the full planking with a 200 to 300 g/m² cloth and epoxy. The sheer-strakes may not be sheathed. If you build over station moulds with steam bent frames, you need to sheath when frames are fitted. Sheathing may be avoided if you have a very good timber quality and if you intend to take care of your hull (no long time exposure to sun or rain). ✔ Lay down bilge keels to protect the hull when aground. They are to be cut-out to shape from timber. Make a pattern with light plywood to get the hull camber. ✔ Then the hull may be painted, at least under waterline, to avoid further turning over. ✔ Screw down the brass, bronze or stainless steel keel band on full length, from stem-head to lower rudder pintle. There is two keel bands in way of centreboard slot. Use stainless steel screws.

C – Interior assembly

C-1 After turning over The hull is very flexible, mainly if it has been built over station moulds. After turning over, wedge the boat, checking that is is not twisted before fitting frames. Put in place some cross spalls to maintain the proper breadth of the hull and avoiding opening of the hull when framing. Check also the sheer-line which must be fair and elegant. If necessary, it is still possible to plane out some millimetres to be fully satisfied.

C-2 Fitting in-situ laminated frames Sheet 63 As Ilur frames are at same location than station moulds, the latest may be used as mould as ex- Plan 22 plained in sheet 63 (last two pages). See § AM-1 for the number of layers. Be careful to fit frames at the proper location, in particular fore and aft of the centreboard case Plan 23 or 24 which is inserted afterwards. Plywood bulkheads and floors are fitted after, glued against frames and joined to planking trough epoxy fillets (to be make discreet in visible areas).

C-3 Fitting steam bent frames Sheet 62 Steam bent frames are of lighter scantling than laminated frames. Mainly in the case of strip plank Plan 22 construction, you may double the number of frames, both to improve aesthetics (frames were very closed in traditional hulls) and to improve hull strength. Plan 23 or 24 Be careful to fit frames at the proper location, in particular fore and aft of the centreboard case which is inserted afterwards. At fore end, you will have to fit cant frames (not perpendicular to centreline, see plan 23 and 24). Then a timber floor will be added to link both sides. At station 9, this floor will be fitted against the plywood bulkhead. It is not necessary to have a connexion between these floors and the cant frames.

C-4 Centreboard and case Plan 25 The centreboard case is prefabricated according to plan. The centreboard is sheathed in order to improve durability and stiffness. It is also strongly recommended to epoxy sheath the inside of case, as it will be very difficult to re-coat during the boat life. Fit on each case side the longitudinal batten supporting the floorboard. It is easier to do it at this stage. Line up the cut-out in keel and false-keel. Carefully adjust the centreboard case to the keel to avoid any leak. Glued in place the case. Use screws across the logs into the keel. Drill obliquely in order to ease screwing. Note that the fore end of cap is extended forward to fit the block:

C-5 Gunwale and rub-rail Plan 22 The gunwale is made of two layers fit tightly around frames heads which are to be cut as per draw- (detail) ing detail. A third layer, acting as rub-rail, is added in case of a plywood sheerstrake. See detail on drawing 22, at station 2.

C-6 Foredeck, mast partner Plan 23 or 24 The fore deck is made of transverse planks adjusted under gunwale. Knees are added aft to improve sturdiness. Add as many screws and bolt as possible, as this area is highly stressed.

C-7 Seat riser Plan 22 The upper face, on which the thwart are laying, is located 15 cm under the upper face of gunwale. Plan 23 or 24 The seat riser is screwed into frames. The upper face is planed horizontal to receive thwarts.

C-8 Buoyancy tanks Plan 22 They are located according to plan: Plan 23 ou 24 ✔ 60 litres between transom and bulkhead 1 ✔ 2 X 30 litres on sides, between bulkheads 1 and 2. ✔ 2 X 50 litres under side seats, between stations 2 and 4 ✔ 2 X 45 litres on sides, under floorboards, between stations 7 and 9. This arrangement allows to keep a locker (non watertight) under aft deck (cover with hinges) which may be locked with a padlock. An alternative and simpler solution is to use the full space between transom and bulkhead 2 as buoyancy space (about 210 litres). Then you may arrange lockers under side seats. Concerning lockers, my experience on such small boats is that it is more practical to use free wa - tertight bags. The only drawback is the protection against theft. The buoyancy spaces are filled with one of following materials: ✔ Expanded polystyrene (white) bought in sheets and cut out with a hand saw (not expensive but disaggregates easily). ✔ Extruded polystyrene (blue or green) sold for the house insulation, tougher than the first. Check that it does not absorb moisture. ✔ Polyethylene foam, also sold in sheets, of white colour, the best product on the technical point of view. Cut out sections and fill the tank leaving a minimum of void spaces as practicable. Of course, buoyancy tanks have to be coated (epoxy or paint) inside before filling with foam. For buoyancy under side seats, use shaped foam enveloped into a tarpaulin or sail canvas (preferably dark red / tan colour) in order to protect the foam and give a traditional aspect. Attention: the compliance of your boat to safety rules (European) is very dependent on the compliance to the designed buoyancy. It is advised to take photographs of foam before closing the tanks, in order to be able to bring a proof of compliance.

C-9 Thwarts and seats Plan 22 On such an open boat, thwarts represent an important weight and it is advisable to use a light tim- Plan 23 or 24 ber, mahogany or conifer. Red cedar may also be used (soft but very light). Sheet 71 Be careful with the side seats. They are thinner and wide. An excellent wood is required to avoid warping. An other way is either to use two planks with a small interval or to make a glued wide plank with 50 mm wide about battens (alternating wood rings orientation).

C-10 Floorboards Plan 22 The floorboard near centreline are removable in order to allow stowage of oars underneath. Make Plan 23 or 24 some finger cut-outs to ease raising. It is recommended to have a safety line or any other means to avoid losing floorboards in case of capsize. Fiche 71 The other floorboards may be simply screwed down.

C-11 Foot rests Plan 22 I suggest “statical” foot rests as shown on plan. Then you always find one pair to put you feet, without anything to adjust. Also, there is no transversal bar which prevent the oars stowage and may be lost in a capsize. Fit at least 3 pairs of foot rests per thwart, located at 100 mm interval. The intermediate one is about 650 mm from the aft edge of thwart. If you intend to have children or small persons, you may add one additional pair toward the thwart (at least for one thwart). The foot rests are cut into a 35 X 45 hardwood planks. The easiest way to fasten them to floorboard is to glue them in place with a weight above. When the glue has cured, turn over the floorboard and add long screws which are the only true and long lasting fastening.

C-12 Mast steps Plan 23 or 24 According to rig option, there is one or two mast steps. They are made of thick plywood and are fitted on the inside profile of stem which is designed accordingly. Small battens on either sides of stem allows a proper fastening with screws.

C-13 Drain plug Fit a drain plug to empty the boat when on trailer. Locate it aft of the centreboard case, close to keel, in order to have access through the removable floorboard. Buy a model adapted to plank thickness.

C-14 Bilge pump A simple way is to use a hand suction pump. For that purpose, just cut a hole in the centreline planking, aft of centreboard case. A more sophisticated installation may be done as per picture:

C-15 Painting Sheet 91 The sheerstrake may be varnished or painted with a different colour. Note that a clear colour out- lines the strakes on a clinker construction and give a better looking. Refer the sheet 91 for general painting instructions, as well as pictures on my web site to get colour ideas.

D – Rig and fittings

D-1 Rudder Plan 26 To be made of plywood according to plan. It is also possible to make the rudder blade in strip Plans 27 & 28 planked timber (50 mm wide about), alternating wood rings orientation to prevent warping (see sheet 31). Sheet 72 The pivot is a plywood disk, allowing to link both cheeks. Take care to get the appropriate latitude between blade and cheeks to allow free rotation, but not too much to keep a good stiffness. It is normal to have to push the blade with hand down to sailing position. A hoisting line is kept in place by a notch in the fore face of rudder. Make knots at appropriate positions.

D-2 Rowing oars Plan 36 I have designed two pairs of oars with “eyes” to be inserted into thole pins, inspired from Irish cur- raghs as well as Swiss lakes boats. They are light, easy to make and very efficient in sea condition. The oars length is 3 m, corresponding to the stowage length above or under floorboards. The “bull”, or piece of hardwood, is drilled with two holes generously carved at entry to give a good vertical movement freedom. Use either hole according to sea and wind. The usual hole is the inner one. The outer hole gives more strength on the blades. With the inner hole, it is also possible, at least on the main thwart, to have two persons rowing on the same thwart. Keep on board a piece of paraffin. It is an excellent lubricant for the thole pins, avoiding to stain clothes or sail. Of course, you may use classic oars of the same length with bronze oarlocks.

D-3 Sculling oar Plan 37 Scull is very useful in congested harbour, as it does not require a wide channel as with oars. Sheet 81 The rowing oars are too weak to be used for sculling, except for a short while and with care. If you are willing to scull on a regular basis, it is preferable to have a dedicated oar for that.

D-4 Standing lug rig Plan 23 This rig is very simple and typical of traditional boats of Brittany (said misainier). It is more efficient Plan 31 that many people think. The sail is always hoisted on the same side of mast, and this is the mean- Plan 35 ing of the word “standing”. Refer to plans and sheets for making the rig. Appendix 4 Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (about 1°) to take in account mast flexibility and play at step and partner. As the step is fixed, rake tuning is done when cutting Sheet 81 the mast partner. Sheet 82 It is very important to have an efficient tack purchase (see plan 23). The tack has to be tuned fre- quently when sailing to get the best of the rig. When reaching, use of a pole is recommended both to increase the effective sail area and to prevent excessive rolling. The mast is held in the partner by a rope, starting from an eye-bolt and one side, making several back and forth, and turned on a belay pin on the other side.

Mast partner and arrangement of the tack return block

When reaching, use of a pole is recommended both to increase the effective sail area and to prevent excessive rolling. The pole may be simply hooked into the halyard:

D-5 Lug sloop rig Plan 24 In addition to plans and sheets, we give some other instructions. Note that we consider it is pos - Plans 32 and 33 sible to shift the mast in a fore position in order to convert the rig in a balanced lug (without jib) as shown on plan 33. If you are not interested by this option, you may simplify the arrangements de - Plan 35 scribed below. Plan 51 Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (0.5 to 1°) to take in account Appendix 4 mast flexibility and play at step and partner. Sheet 81 Tack purchase Sheet 82 It has to be small in length. So use small stainless steel blocks for dinghies, as shown on the picture.

The rope diameter is 6 mm. The lower block is fitted with a jam-cleat. A hank allows a quick hooking to the eye bolt on starboard side of mast. The purchase has to be easily unhooked if you need to stow sail and yard on the thwarts when rowing or at mooring. On the upper end, the tack purchase has to be strapped to the boom, about 15 cm aft of the tack point of sail. Mast partner You may use the arrangement shown on plan 31. Replace the protecting rope by an epoxy sheathing to allows mast to be stepped in the fore position. An other method is simply to have a small line lashed between 2 eye-bolts (about 4 times). Fore end of boom The tack point of the sail has to be as close as possible to the fore end of boom to prevent jib sheet to be jammed when tacking. For that purpose, see detail on plan 35. Bowsprit and jib The stem has to be cut 30 mm about above sheer-line as the bowsprit is located at centreline. This allows to attach the bowsprit to mast using standards rudder fittings as on the picture of an other boat:

Therefore, it is easy to take in the bowsprit and the jib tack may be directly lashed to the bowsprit end. To rig the jib, just put the bowsprit in place and hoist. A U shaped collar is screwed on the stem sides and maintains the bowsprit on the stem-head. The halyard goes through a simple lead on mast head and is belayed on a cleat on the mast (starboard side). There is 2 cleats on the same side of mast (see plan 32). The jib sheet goes through a lead screwed on the station 7 frame (see plan 24 and picture). You may also use a bull's eye lashed to the seat riser. This allows some tuning.

D-6 Balanced lug rig Plan 23 This is an intermediate rig, interesting to sail in river or single-handed. Plans 41 The boat structure is the same as for the standing lug except that the rake of mast is 6° instead Plan 35 of 8°. Thus, the mast step has to shifted aft by 25 mm. Appendix 4 Attention: Mast rake is given on sail plan. In practice, reduce this rake (about 1°) to take in account Sheet 81 mast flexibility and play at step and partner. As the step is fixed, rake tuning is done when cutting Sheet 82 the mast partner. Fittings are the same as for the main sail of the lug sloop rig. Of course, there is no need to make the specific arrangement of the fore end of boom (there is no jib). I recommend the same sheet arrangement as for the sloop rig. It is also possible to use the arrangement shown on the following picture. It requires a swivelling block with cam-cleat (on the centreboard case top) which is a modern and sophisticated device not so appropriate on such a traditional boat.

D-7 Lug yawl rig Plan 23 This rig gives a more elegant look to your Ilur and has also some interests when rowing or when Plans 43 & 44 drifting for fishing. Appendix 4 The arrangement of the main mast is similar to the standing lug rig (see above). However, the mast rake is reduced to 6° and the sheet thumb cleat is moved forward. Note that it is possible to sail Sheet 81 without the mizzen. Then it is better to give more rake to the main mast (8°). See mast step para- Sheet 82 graph. The mizzen mast and bumpkin arrangement is shown on plan 44.

Mizzen mast arrangement (clinker kit version)

D-8 Sails and ropes The best is sails made of Clipper Canvas or Oceanus, a soft polyester cloth having the touch of traditional cotton. Clipper Canvas is available in cream or tan colour. Sails made with these cloth are easier to handle and to stow on thwarts when rowing. The only drawback is that the lightest cloth available is heavy (300 g/m²). Otherwise, use a modern polyester cloth (preferably under 160 g/m²) available also in cream and tan (but tan has a glossy effect and I prefer cream). There is today “hemp like” ropes, made of polypropylene or polyester (better) which fit perfectly a classic boat. They are available as traditional 3 or 4 strand ropes (easily spliced) or as braid (do not twist).

D-9 Outboard motor It is possible to hang an outboard motor to the transom. A long shaft is preferable. However, if the crew stays in the aft part of boat, a short shaft may also be used by calm sea. It is not recommended to make a cut-out in the transom in order to fit a short shaft motor. Apart the aesthetic aspect, the motor in raised position will interfere with the tiller (of course this depend on the motor type). It is also recommended to protect the inside and outside faces of transom to avoid paint damaging by the outboard brackets. The scull notch is to be cut-out on the other side. A very small outboard (2 to 2.5 hp) is enough as an auxiliary motor. An electric motor (Torqeedo for example) is an other interesting option.

D-10 Trailer Choose a trailer with a payload of minimum 50 kg over light weight of the boat to take in account equipment on board. I strongly recommend to weight the finished boats, as the weight is deeply de- pending on the materials used for construction and “improvements” which may have been made. The model on picture, with two rows of lateral rollers, gives full satisfaction. They are generally sold for motor boats with V shaped hull. Avoid models with roller under the keel, which keep the boat higher and make launching more difficult.

Item (sorted by wood type and Version Wood Nb thick. width length comments scantlings) code mm mm mm Keel All A 1 20 110 4000 Stem and transom knee All A 1 15 320 4000 Or other dimensions allowing to cut-out the 8 parts (see sketch 1) Transom, upper board All A or C 1 22 120 1300 Avoid too soft wood Transom, other boards All A 6 22 50 2000 Or overall length 12 m. May also be made of 20 mm plywood (or 2 X 10 mm). Laminated false-stem All A 14 3 50 1 200 Skeg, layer 1 All A 1 18 80 2 000 Skeg, layer 2 All A 1 18 80 1 500 Skeg, layer 3 All A 1 18 70 1 300 Skeg, layer 4 All A 1 18 60 1 100 Skeg, other layers All A 2 18 40 2 000 Cut-out beam, station 2 All A 1 18 60 1 400 Not to mix up this part with the preceding ones False-keel All A 1 30 80 4 000 Laminated frames (fitted first) Strip A 100 3 30 3 000 9 layers + supplementary layers for bevels Laminated frames (fitted inside hull) Clinker A 100 3 30 2 800 9 layers + supplementary layers for bevels Steam bent frames Option P 12 or 16 28 2 800 Option in replacement to laminated frames. Double 24 the number of frames in case of strip planking. Sheerstrake Strip A 2 18 250 4 800 Avoid too soft wood Battens for strip planking construction Strip B 100 15 22 4 700 Rub-rail Clinker A 2 20 25 4 800 With rabbet 9 X 17, rub-rail only with ply sheerstrake Sheerstrake Clinker A 2 15 270 4 800 Option : normally made of plywood. Gunwale All A 4 20 25 4 700 Miscellaneous battens All A 1 20 25 24 000 Seat risers All A 2 20 45 4 200 Centreboard case carlings or logs All A 2 30 50 1 350 Carlings supporting movable floorboards All A 2 30 50 2 200 Carlings under fore deck Misainier A 2 30 50 320 May 2014 Ilur Appendix 1 rev 8 - Page 2/4

Carlings under fore deck Sloop A 2 30 50 700 Centreboard posts and thwarts stanchions All A 1 26 45 1 600 Total length for 4 pieces Batten between transom and aft decking All A 1 26 45 1 100 Centreboard case cap All A 1 22 88 1 500 Trim on centreboard case All A 1 10 47 800 Total length for 2 pieces Tiller All A 3 20.5 80 1 300 Fore deck All E 1 22 200 1 200 Fore deck (complement) Sloop E 1 22 200 2 000 Fore thwart All E 1 22 240 1 600 Aft thwart All E 1 22 240 1 700 Side seats All E 2 18 350 1 800 Or 2 X 180 width Aft decking All E 3 18 250 900 Thickness may be reduced to 15 mm about, Aft floorboards All E 6 18 200 900 according to wood quality, to save weight. Mid length floorboards All E 6 18 200 1 350 Movable floorboards All E 2 18 160 1 350 Fore floorboards All E 4 18 250 1 000 Fore floorboards (near centreline) All E 2 18 160 900 Quarter knees, thwart knees, mast partner All C 1 22 120 1 800 Or other dimensions allowing to cut-out the 8 parts knees, quarter thumb cleats (see sketch 2) Bilge keels All C 2 22 50 1 100 To be cut-out to shape Fore thole boards All C 2 35 50 350 Aft thole boards All C 2 30 50 350 Oars bulls (for 4 oars) All C 1 22 35 1 200 Total length for 4 pieces Oars wearing planks (for 4 oars) All C 2 10 56 900 Total length for 4.2 X 2 pieces Foot-rest All C 1 35 45 1 400 Total length for 4 X 4 foot-rests Mizzen mast and bumpkin chocks Yawl C 1 26 120 400 Total length for 2 pieces Mast All F 1 90 90 5 200 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 87 mm Yard All F 1 60 60 3 750 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Boom (sloop) Sloop F 1 60 60 3 950 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Boom (balanced lug rig) Balanced F 1 60 60 4 100 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 58 mm Bowsprit Sloop F 1 70 70 2 000 Reduced diameter if Douglas fir : 68 mm May 2014 Ilur Appendix 1 rev 8 - Page 3/4

Boom half jaw Sloop & C 1 30 140 550 balanced Pole Misainier F 1 40 45 3 100 Mizzen mast Yawl F 1 52 52 3 500 Bumpkin Yawl F 1 26 26 1 500 Mizzen boom Yawl F 1 42 42 1 500 Oars, loom All G 4 36 56 3 100 Oars, blades All G 8 36 40 1 100

Note : Given length takes into account end margins; given thickness and widths are dimension of final (planed) dimensions.

Sketch 1 – Stem and transom knee thickness 15 mm :

Sketch 2 – Knees in oak thickness 22 mm (to cut twice) : May 2014 Ilur Appendix 1 rev 8 - Page 4/4

Wood Code Main use Recommended species A Glued main structure parts : stem, laminated Sipo, Sapele, Mahogany, Iroko, Douglas fir frames, gunwale… B Hull planks (strip planking) Douglas fir, Red pine, Spruce, Mahogany, Sipo, Red cedar (if sheathed) C Wearing parts Oak, Acacia, Iroko E Thwarts, seats and floorboards Red pine, Douglas fir, Mahogany F Masts and spars Northern pine, Spruce, Douglas fir G Oars Northern pine, Spruce (Douglas fir or ash for a scull) P Steam bent frames Acacia green or oak, with strait grain and without François Vivier Architecte Naval knots 27 May 2014 Classic Ilur – Appendix 2 rev 6 Plywood panels list Clinker or strip planked version

Type Format Thickness Quantity Use Marine plywood, okume 2 500 X 1 220 9 or 10 mm 2 or 3 Centreboard, centreboard or mahogany or 7 layers (see note 1) trunk, rudder, bulkheads, 2 440 X 1 220 transom and others Marine all okume 2 440 X 1 220 9 mm 8 Planking 7 layers (see note 2) (Clinker version only) Ordinary plywood 2 500 X 1 220 12 mm 7 Building frame and moulds (see note 3) The plans in following pages may be used to visualize the parts to be cut out and make the best possible use of plywood panels. Note 1: 2 panels only with 2.5 m long plywood panels and use of full size patterns Note 2: Strakes cut from pre-scarfed panels. See last page. Note 3: 8 panels if 2.44 panel length.

François Vivier Naval Architect 11 December 2012 Ilur version clins CP marine 10 mm - échelle 1/10 - Panneau 1 Axe Emplanture safran Mast step Courbe Rudder Cloison longitudinale Cloison 7 couple 3 flottabilité avant pivot Bulkhead 7 Emplanture Axe Knee Longitudinal bulkhead station 3 Emplanture Mast step safran Fore buoyancy tank Mast step Rudder pivot

Doublante Cloison longitudinale Joue gouvernail sous bancs flottabilité avant Safran Rudder side Doubler Longitudinal bulkhead Rudder blade under thwarts Fore buoyancy tank

Safran Cloison longitudinale flottabilité arrière Rudder blade

Longitudinal bulkhead Aft buoyancy tank Cloison 4 Doublantes épontilles Bulkhead 4 Doublers for pillars

Cloison longitudinale flottabilité arrière Cloison 9 Doublante sous bancs Cloison 1 Bulkhead 9 Longitudinal bulkhead Bulkhead 1 Emplanture Doubler Aft buoyancy tank Mast step under thwarts

Ilur clinker version 10 mm marine hard plywood - scale 1/10 - Sheet 1 Ilur version clins CP marine 10 mm - échelle 1/10 - Panneau 2

Courbe Joue gouvernail couple 3 Cloison 2 Rudder side Bulkhead 2 Knee station 3

Ame gouvernail Rudder core Ame gouvernail Rudder core

Dérive Centerboard Flanc puits de dérive Centerboard side

Dérive Flanc puits de dérive

Centerboard Centerboard side

Ilur clinker version 10 mm marine hard plywood - scale 1/10 - Sheet 2 Ilur version clins - CP ordinaire 12 mm - échelle 1/10 - Panneau 1

Couple / station 8 Gabarit inclinaison et position du tableau Mould for transom position

Etambot / Sternpost

Etrave /stem Couple / station 7 Tête de tableau / transom head

Ilur clinker version - Ordinary plywood 12 mm - scale 1/10 - Panel 1 Ilur version clins - CP ordinaire 12 mm - Echelle 1/10 - Panneau 2

Barrot ouvragé / Beam at station 2 Barre / helm

Gabarit de tableau Couple / station 1 Transom pattern

Gabarit inclinaison et position du tableau Mould for transom position

Barre d'espacement des couples / spacing board

Ilur clinker version - Ordinary plywood 12 mm - scale 1/10 - Panel 2 Ilur version clins - CP ordinaire 12 mm - Echelle 1/10 - Panneau 3

Barre d'espacement des couples / spacing board

Couple / station 2 Couple / station 9

Courbe de banc Courbe de tableau Courbe d'étambrai (misainier) Thwart knee Quarter knee Mast partner knee (standing lug) Courbe d'étambrai (sloup) Mast partner knee (sloop)

Ilur clinker version - Ordinary plywood 12 mm - scale 1/10 - Panel 3 Ilur version clins - CP ordinaire 12 mm - Echelle 1/10 - Panneaux 4 et 5 (identiques)

Couple / station 3 Couple / station 5

Couple / station 6 Couple / station 4

Ilur clinker version - Ordinary plywood 12 mm - scale 1/10 - Panels 4 and 5 (identical) Ilur et Beg-Meil clin (construction au moyen de tracés vraie grandeur sur calque polyester) Imbrication des bordés dans des panneaux de conteplaqué 2 500 (ou 2 440) X 1 220 scarfés deux par deux

Bordé / Strake 10 (sheerstrake / préceinte)

Bordé / Strake 9

Bordé / Strake 8

Bordé / Strake 7

Bordé / Strake 6

Bordé / Strake 5

Bordé / Strake 4

Bordé / Strake 3

Bordé / Strake 2

Bordé / Strake 1 (galbord / garboard)

Ilur and Beg-Meil (construction using polyester patterns) Nesting of shell planking in plywood sheets 2 500 (or 2 440) X 1 220 scarfed two by two Ilur – Appendix 3 rev 3 Plywood panels list Strip planking version

Construction with polyester patterns The following pages give the nesting plans with identification of each part. This allows proper use of panels. For ordinary plywood, make use of the nesting plans of the clinker version (appendix 2). The list of the panels is as follows:

Type Format Thickness Numbers Use Marine all sapelli, sipo or 250 X 122 10 mm - 7 layers 2 Centreboard, centreboard moabi trunk, rudder, bulkheads and others Ordinary plywood 250 X 122 12 mm 5 Station moulds and others

Construction without polyester patterns The list of the panels is as follows:

Type Format Thickness Numbers Use Marine all sapelli, sipo or 250 X 122 10 mm - 7 layers 3 Centreboard, centreboard moabi trunk, rudder, bulkheads and others Ordinary plywood 250 X 122 12 mm 6 Station moulds and others

François Vivier Naval Architect 30 August 2007

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I 1 Ilur – Appendix 4 – rev 4 Fittings list

Item Rig Use Quantity Dimension Obs. Rudder gudgeon All Rudder 2 Classic Marine (for pintle 10 mm S2 2 holes about.) vertical gudgeon HL 2222

Rudder pintle All Rudder 2 Classic Marine (pintle 10 mm S2 3 holes pintle about.) HL 2254

Stainless steel All Rudder 1 Dinghy type safety clip

Mast traveller, All Mast 1 Inside diameter bronze or 100 mm about galvanized, (90 mm mast). preferably with Rod diameter 10 leather mm.

Cleat, ash or teak All Halyard on mast 2 175 mm about and sail sheet Deck clip, All Thole pin seizing 4 Small model stainless steel line

Bronze of brass All Thole pins, stem 1.2 m Diam. 14 mm rod cleat, mast partner cleat, centreboard pivot Convex keel- All Keel band 6 m 8 X 16 about band or strips, brass or bronze

Stainless steel All Mast partner and 2 Diameter 8 eye-bolt inner stem for tack block.

Cheek block, All Centreboard 1 N°10 tufnol hoisting line Sheave 35 mm

Cam cleat All Centreboard line 1 For rope 6 mm May 2014 Ilur fittings Appendix 4 rev 4- Page 2/4

Bronze sheet All Safety line, 1 Inner size 25 X lead centreboard 12 Or equivalent modern lead

Clam-cleat "auto- All Safety line, 1 For rope 6 mm release" centreboard

Tufnol sheave All Mast head 1 Thickness 13 mm Diameter 60 à 70 Appropriate stainless steel pivot (8 mm about) Tufnol block All Tack purchase 2 N°10 Single, with ring Sheave 35 mm

Tufnol block All Tack purchase 1 N°8 Single, with Sheave 30 mm becket

Tufnol cheek All Tack purchase 1 N°8 block Sheave 30 mm

Cam cleat with All Tack purchase 1 For rope 6 mm guide

Draining plug, All Hull 1 For planking 9 brass or nylon mm (clinker) or 15 mm (strip planking)

Polyester rope or All Halyard (10 m) and 12 m 10 mm braid, preferably tack line hemp like

Polyester rope or All Centreboard lines, 24 m 6 mm braid, preferably rudder hoisting, hemp like tack or downhaul purchase, grommets, reefing line. Polyester rope or All Sail lashing on 25 m 4 mm braid, preferably yard, reef hemp like pennants. Braid, preferably All Protection and 50 m 3 mm brown small lashings May 2014 Ilur fittings Appendix 4 rev 4- Page 3/4

Shock-cord All Centreboard and 4 m 8 mm rudder

Tufnol block Standing Sheet 1 N°10 Single, with lug Sheave 35 mm becket

Low friction Standing Sheet 1 For rope 8 to 10 bulseyes lug mm

Polyester rope or Standing Sheet (12 m), tack 20 m 8 mm braid, preferably lug (4), grommets hemp like

Tufnol block Balanced Mainsheet 1 N°10 Single, with lug Sheave 35 mm becket

Tufnol block Balanced Mainsheet 3 N°10 Single, with ring lug Sheave 35 mm

Polyester rope or Balanced Mainsheet, 25 m 8 mm braid, preferably lug downhaul... hemp like

Tufnol block Lug sloop Mainsheet 1 N°10 Single, with Sheave 35 mm becket

Tufnol block Lug sloop Mainsheet 3 N°10 Single, with ring Sheave 35 mm

Polyester rope or Lug sloop Mainsheet (20 m), 45 m 8 mm braid, preferably downhaul.(3), jib hemp like halyard (10), jib sheet (8) Rudder fittings for Lug sloop Mast and bowsprit 1 Pin diameter 8 small dinghy mm May 2014 Ilur fittings Appendix 4 rev 4- Page 4/4

Stem head fitting Lug sloop Stem head Plan 51 for bowsprit

Lockover lipped Lug sloop Fore deck 2 fairlead, bronze. (symetrica May be replaced l) by a hardwood block. Cleat, ash or teak Lug sloop Jib halyard on 2 175 mm about mast, jib sheet Bronze or brass Lug sloop Mast partner belay 0.5 m Diameter 14 mm rod pin Sheet lead Lug sloop 2 on gunwale for jib 3 For rope 8 mm sheets, 1 at mast head for jib halyard

Key pin shackle Lug sloop For downhaul lower 1 Diameter 4 mm block on mast

Cam cleat for Lug yawl Sheet 1 For rope 6 mm mizzen sheet

Low friction Lug yawl Sheet, end of 1 For rope 6 mm bulseye bumpkin

Brass band Lug yawl Mizzen mast 1 3 X 20 mm partner Length 300 mm Polyester rope or Lug yawl Sheet 4 m 6 mm braid, preferably hemp like Polyester rope or Lug yawl Sail lashing on 10 m 4 mm braid, preferably mast hemp like

In UK: http://www.classicmarine.co.uk

François Vivier Architecte Naval 27 May 2014