Peter Bell Wife in the Early 1980S, Bell Applied and Was Accepted to the Enology Fox Run Vineyards Program at Charles Sturt University in Wagga Wagga
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fee. After visiting Australia with his Peter Bell wife in the early 1980s, Bell applied and was accepted to the enology Fox Run Vineyards program at Charles Sturt University in Wagga Wagga. After graduation, he found his way to the Finger Lakes – via New Zealand. Bell had been working as an assistant winemaker in Marl- borough and looking for a way out, when he met an American harvest intern at neighboring Cloudy Bay winery. When Bell confided his desire to move on, the intern sug- gested he go to the Finger Lakes, because of its potential for produc- ing world-class riesling. Bell took the advice. When he arrived in the Finger Lakes in 1990, he contacted the only company in the region he had heard of: Tay- lor Wine Co. As it happened, Tay- lor was about to go bankrupt, but the receptionist told him that Dr. Frank’s down the road was looking for a winemaker. Bell got the job. He stayed with the winery until 1995, when Fox Run owner Scott Osborn – whom Bell had gotten to know while judging V&WM’s Inter- For going on 20 years, Peter Bell has national Eastern Wine Competition been the winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards – asked Bell to become his wine- on Seneca Lake, turning heads not only with maker. his artfully made Finger Lakes rieslings, but At Fox Run, Bell takes a science- also his pinot noir, cabernet franc and lem- based approach to winemaking, berger wines. but doesn’t consider himself to be Bell’s most notable wines include Fox a hard-core traditionalist. While he Run’s “Geology Series” rieslings, which likes the control of using commer- n 2013 we launched our “20 Most Once the nominations were in, we highlight the ancient geological terroir of cial yeasts and prefers to filter his Admired’ issue to shine a much- reduced the field of contenders to 40 final- two distinctive vineyard blocks; and the cel- wines, he’s also willing to experi- deserved spotlight on the most admired ists, based on the number of nominations ebrated Tierce Dry Riesling, his collaborative ment with things like native fermen- people in the North American wine each person received. Names of the finalists effort with fellow Finger Lakes winemakers tations – as long as they don’t get in industry. With the thoughtful input of our were then submitted to the committee for a Johannes Reinhardt of Anthony Road Wine the way of pure varietal expression. nominating committee – comprised of vote (members could vote for as many peo- Co. (also one of 2014’s “Most Admired”) and One of the things Bell says he respected winemakers, grapegrowers, wine ple as they liked.) David Whiting of Red Newt Cellars. loves most about being a winemak- writers, educators, buyers, sommeliers and The 20 winemakers who came out on top Born in Boston and raised in Amsterdam, er is the sense of community. He consultants across North America – we cel- reflect a wide range of wines, styles and Berkeley, Calif., and Toronto, Bell was the considers his fellow Finger Lakes ebrated wine professionals from just about regions. Some produce hundreds of thou- winemaker at Dr. Konstantin Frank's Vinifera vintners as collaborators and co-con- every aspect of the industry. sands of cases each year; some make only a Wine Cellars for five years before joining Fox spirators, rather than competitors. This year, we’re highlighting the 20 Most couple thousand. While many craft some of Run in 1995. “Peter’s intelligence, humble- Admired Winemakers. North America’s finest wines and represent It wasn’t until his late 20s, after he had ness, passion for great wine and Our committee had just two rules to fol- the continent’s most successful wineries, already earned a degree in cultural anthro- willingness to share his wealth of low: 1) nominees must be living; 2) they must there are many other reasons to admire the pology, that Bell developed an academic knowledge,” enthused Reinhardt be based in North America. While some com- men and women on our 2014 list. These are interest in wine. He first set his sights on of Anthony Road, “… these quali- mittee members quickly returned short-lists the pioneers; the innovators; the trend-buck- the enology program at UC Davis, but was ties make him a man to be admired of their winemaking heroes, others agonized ers; the standard-setters and the leaders. discouraged from applying due to his lack of deeply.” over how to whittle down their nominees to Here, in alphabetical order, are the Most related credentials – and the $20,000 tuition less than 50. Admired Winemakers in North America. 40 www.vwmmedia.com www.vwmmedia.com 41 Antinori); Erath Vineyards in Ore- class inspired her to change her Bob Bertheau gon; and Conn Creek, Villa Mount Cathy Corison academic focus, and she went on to Eden and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars earn a master's degree in enology Chateau Ste. Michelle in Napa Valley. Although each prop- Corison Winery from UC Davis. erty has its own facilities and wine- Corison spent 30 years hon- maker, Bertheau is the overarching ing her skills at wineries including guiding light. Chappellet Vineyard, Staglin Fam- For Eroica, the riesling brand ily Vineyard, York Creek Vineyards he produces in concert with Ernst and Long Meadow Ranch. In 1987 Loosen of Germany's Mosel region, she produced the first vintage of Bertheau said he continues to gain Corison cabernet, and in 1999, she knowledge from Loosen on “how broke ground on the Corison Win- to protect fruit purity and produce ery in St. Helena. fresh, fruit-driven rieslings.” Despite Napa Valley’s stylistic Bertheau arrived at CSM in 2003, shift toward riper, higher-octane after winemaking stints in Califor- cabernets in the ’80s and ’90s, nia with the Belvedere and Brad- Corison refused to follow the trend. ford Mountain labels. The UC Davis Throughout her winemaking career, alumnus also worked with Bob Ses- her cabernets have retained their sions at Hanzell Vineyards, David signature balance, power and ele- Ramey at Chalk Hill, and for Gallo of gance, along with alcohol levels Sonoma. Born in Seattle, Bertheau's well under 14%. joining CSM in Woodinville, 15 Corison achieves this style by miles northeast of Seattle, was a harvesting at lower sugars, and return home. credits a touch of redleaf virus in His latest project is Eroica Gold, the Kronos vineyard with slow- made in a German botrytis style ing down sugar accumulation. with cracking acidity and ripe, rich Her winemaking technique has flavors and texture. Like the original remained largely the same over the Eroica, an off-dry riesling, Gold is years, emphasizing minimal inter- Many winemakers say that it’s more produced from Washington-grown This is the second year that Cathy Cori- vention and gentle handling. difficult to make large volumes of consis- grapes and German expertise. “The son has graced our “Most Admired” list, Despite the demand and critical tently good, well-priced wine than it is to idea was to do a different kind of and it’s no mystery why: She makes some acclaim for Corison’s wines, she make small batches of expensive wine. Bob sweet riesling," said Loosen. “Not of the Napa Valley’s finest cabernet sauvi- has little interest in bumping up Bertheau, head winemaker at Washington a big, sticky dessert wine with a gnon wines. production. An artisan winemaker state’s Chateau Ste. Michelle (CSM), over- lot of botrytis influence, but some- Corison’s prized estate vineyard, Kronos, to the core, she still makes only sees the production of some 2 million cases thing lighter and more delicate. The was planted in the early 1970s and is home 1,500-2,500 cases per year, divided of wine per year and 50-plus different wines, wine is absolutely gorgeous, and to some of Napa Valley’s oldest cabernet among her two cabernets, plus an turning out both great values at the lower shows that Washington riesling can vines. The 8-acre vineyard’s well-drained, Anderson Valley gewürztraminer price-points and high-end reserve and single- achieve the same incredible range bale gravelly loam soils and rare St. George and a Napa Valley cabernet franc. vineyard bottlings, all showing remarkable of styles as in the Old World." rootstock combine to produce what Corison “Cathy Corison is widely admired quality and consistency. According to Jim Tresize, presi- calls “pitiful quantities of delicious wines.” by both longstanding cabernet sau- Founded in 1934, Chateau Ste. Michelle dent of the New York Wine & Grape With a rare combination of power and ele- vignon aficionados and new genera- is the oldest winery in Washington and owns Foundation, “Bob oversees an gance, Corison’s flagship Kronos and Napa tions of wine drinkers because she 3,500 vineyard acres in the Columbia Val- operation that makes large volumes Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines (sourced has never wavered from a hoe-your- ley. Said to be the world’s largest producer of consistently superb wines from from benchland vineyards between Ruther- own-road work ethic and vision of of riesling (1 million cases), CSM’s other all grape varieties, and cooperates ford and St. Helena) have earned her a repu- making Napa Valley wines of ele- strengths are chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, with other Washington winemakers tation as a top-notch winemaker – not only gance that also age,” said Virginie merlot and cabernet sauvignon. It’s the big as well. Chateau Ste. Michelle is among critics and trade members, but also Boone, contributing editor for Wine dog in the Ste.