An Introduction to Hakoneyama today Birth and history of Toyamasō

Toyamasō Garden e height of this articial hill today is . meters above sea Toyamasō was the shimoyashiki (suburban residence) of the e garden of Toyamasō occupied more than  of the large level, making it the highest point within the . Field Museum Guide Toyama Park Owari , ruler of . Its construction grounds (about , square meters) of this shimoyashiki, began around , on , square meters of land given by the suburban residence of a daimyo (feudal lord). e garden Saishōji Temple in . is was the temple of a originally had many eye-catching features built into it, such as a Buddhist nun named Soshin, who was the great-grandmother pond, rock gardens, hills, crop elds, gorges, waterfalls, tea of Chiyo-hime (Princess Chiyo), daughter of the third Shogun shops, shrines and temples. Particularly famous was Omachiya, Owari Tokugawa Iemitsu, and wife of Tokugawa Mitsutomo, the which was a life-size replica of a block of houses in the post-sta- second lord of Owari. e mansion was expanded aer a tion town of Odawarajuku. further , square meters of land was awarded by the Stylistically, the garden is classied as a daimyo garden in the shogunate in . With additional acquisitions of surrounding chisen kaiyu (pond stroll) style. It is atypical, however, in that Toyamasō land, the grounds of the mansion ultimately grew to . its large pond does not have a prominent central island, which hectares, nearly ten times the size of the Dome stadium. was normally the focal point of such a pond. A grand pond as Because the land included the local Shinto shrine Wada- seen in this garden usually catered to boating, but there are no Past and Present to-myojin, and straddled the two hamlets of Wada and Toyama, known records of boating ever taking place at Toyamasō, and Before you explore Toyama Park, the mansion became known as Wada-toyama-yashiki, or more the lack of a central island also suggests that boating was not be sure to download Tokyo Parks commonly, Toyamasō. among the pursuits here. It is reasonable to think of this garden Play, an app designed to make is shimoyashiki is traditionally believed to have been con- as essentially a kaiyu (stroll) garden designed to oer beautiful your park visits more fun. structed to ensure comfort and convenience of Princess Chiyo vistas, as suggested by its many tsukiyama (articial hills). In when the Owari Tokugawas were forced, due to a re, to evacu- fact, with its man-made attractions, the garden might possibly e app provides information about latest events at Tokyo Metropoli- ate their kamiyashiki (city-center residence; it was located close suggest an equivalent to the theme parks of the modern day. tan parks, as well as game “missions” for you to complete. Owari to today’s Ministry of Defense). An alternative, somewhat more is unusually large number of tsukiyama for a daimyo garden Toyamasō Konjaku Meguri (Toyamasō Past and Present) is the release plausible explanation is that it was built for the personal indul- represents a notable feature of Toyamasō Garden. Each of these for Toyama Park, which can be used as a quiz-rally style companion to gence of Tokugawa Mitsutomo. He was recorded to have “hills” had a name, such as Gyokuenpō, Inuiyama, Shūsuidai, self-guided tours of the park. frequently spent time at Toyamasō during his reign as ruler of Ōishiyama, and Kinmeizan, to name just the major ones. To download the app, go to an app store Owari domain. Aer retirement, he permanently moved to this Gyokuenpō was the highest tsukiyama in the garden, and and search either “Tokyo Metropolitan shimoyashiki, even though at that time retired domain lords survives to this day as Hakoneyama, or Mount Hakone. Park Association” or “Tokyo Parks Play.” usually took up residence at their nakayashiki (a secondary, oen smaller, city-center residence). Aer the death of Mitsutomo, Toyamasō fell into disrepair. It was brought back to its former glory when it was refurbished Outline of Toyama Park during the time of ninth lord Munechika (–) to Opened August ,  entertain the eleventh Shogun Tokugawa Ienari (–). Area open to the public: ,. square meters e revived Toyamasō hosted visits by the so-called Location: Toyama -chome, -chome, -chome, and Okubo -chome, Ward and other important daimyo in addition to the Shogun. Ienari Directions reputedly praised the garden as being the best in the country. • Shin-Okubo Station and Station (JR Yamanote and Tozai Lines) are ten minutes on foot from the Okubo In subsequent years Toyamasō suered the ravages of multiple section of the park, and  minutes on foot from the Hakoneyama section res and storms. Many of its buildings were lost to the great re of the park. of Aoyama in . • Nishi-waseda Station (Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line) is six minutes on foot from the Okubo section of the park, and eight minutes from the e property was administered by the military aer , and Kinmeizan Shūsuidai and Inuiyama Hakoneyama section of the park. hosted Toyama Gakko, a military school. Aer the end of the • Waseda Station (Tokyo Metro Tozai Line) is ten minutes on foot from the Hakoneyama section of the park. Second World War, Toyamasō became a national property, and • Wakamatsu-kawada Station (Tokyo Metro Oedo Line) is  minutes was partly opened to the public in  as a park named Tokyo on foot from the Hakoneyama section of the park. Metropolitan Toyama Koen Hakoneyama Chiku. Issued March 2019 by Tokyo Metropolitan Park Association Edited by Toyama Park Service Center Phone: 03-3200-1702 Address: 3-5-1 Okubo, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 169-0072 Toyamasō as shown in an illustrated handscroll

1 Bukuryōzaka ★ 5 Omachiya 10 Kohakubashi 11 Gyokuenpō (called Hakoneyama today) Bukuryōzaka was a sloping street that led Completed the same year as Koekirō in Literally “amber bridge,” Kohakubashi Gyokuenpō was an articial hill built from to the goten (palace). It was lined with , Omachiya was a life-sized replica of a was a wooden bridge spanning the middle soil dug out to make the pond. It was named townhouse-style buildings, some of which block of townhouses in Odawarajuku, a of the pond. According to an illustrated aer its round shape that resembled an housed tea shops. Close by was the long-es- post-station town. e complex measured handscroll, its span measured nearly  upturned bowl, and it still retains its shape tablished local Shinto shrine, Wadato-myo-  meters in length, and consisted of  meters. e pond had a gazebo named today. e present name Hakoneyama dates jin. It is said that the street received its name structures which housed trades such as a Yotsudō on its north bank, and beyond it from the Meiji era. because the area was known to produce blacksmith and a rice merchant. When- two small islands, named Tsurushima and Bukuryō, a species of medicinal mush- ever the Shogun visited, his retainers Kameshima. room found growing on the roots of pine played the part of shopkeepers, entertain- trees. ing the Shogun by giving him a taste of the lives of the common people. Toyamasō Garden Past and Present 2 Yokeidō and Tsurigane ★ 6 Yokeidō was probably the most impressive Saiuntō building in Toyamasō. It was linked to Saiuntō is an embankment located north- Kinmeizan Omotegoten by a covered walkway, and east of Omachiya. It was originally called N the interior was decorated with numerous Nakazutsumi, but was renamed Saiuntō (lit. masterworks of calligraphy and other art. bank of red clouds) because of the many In the garden was a tsurigane (a large crape myrtle owers planted there, which temple bell), said to have been salvaged when in bloom appeared like swathes of red from the sea. Yokeidō was also referred to clouds. as Fujimi-goten, because it commanded a view of Mount Fuji, from beyond the 7 Yōrōsen ★ trees. is water well, completed in , was a ★ 8 3 Shōtokujō prominent feature of Toyamasō. It is recorded Ōkubo-dori to have constantly produced clean water. e Yokeidō Shōtokujō was a horse racing ground at the bottom of Yokeidō garden. well wall was chiseled out of a single, pur- Goten Measuring nearly   meters in length, it had an earth mound built in the ple-hued rock. e name Yōrōsen literally center, around which horses raced. ere were also stands for spectators, and a means, “Medicinal spring water for remedy- 2 ditch for horses to cool down in. To the west of the race course was a clear ing the symptoms of aging.” 1 Suwa-dori 10 stream, named Takueisen. It provided a habitat for frogs and reies, which 11 were brought there and released. e area was surrounded by crop elds. Shūsuidai 9 Bukuryōzaka Takueisen (then called Oigawa) was actually a canal created at Toyamasō, fed Yōrōsen by Kanigawa, a river originating near Kabukicho -chome. e name Takuei Hakoneyama (Mount Hakone) literally means “to wash the cord of one’s coronet,” which metaphorically 8 Shōrozan meant, “release from secular duties and concerns.” 7 Literally “Little Lushan,” Shōrozan was cre- 3 ated to simulate Lushan, or Mount Lu, in China. A rustic cottage displaying a tablet inscribed “Rozanji Temple” was built here, Shōtokujō and the area was covered with kuma bamboo grass. To the west of Shōrozan was a shrine 4 dedicated to Ōji-gongen. e shrine’s torii Koekirō 6 (gate) stood in the pond in front. 5 4 Koekirō ★ 9 Zuiryūtei Completed in , Koekirō was also Zuiryūtei was a sukiya-style building built referred to as Honjin. It consisted of two on a spot that commanded a panoramic Original painting: Owari Dainagon dono shimo yashiki Toyamasō buildings, one of which was furnished as a view of the garden. e interior was deco- zenzu (Source: National Diet Library website) medicine shop, while the other was tted rated with paintings and furnishings. On The dotted white line indicates the outline of present-day Toyama with balustrades to serve as a building the edge of the pond were two ancient Park (Hakoneyama area). from which to enjoy the view of the willow trees. ere were inlets (arms of the Meiji-dori grounds and ponds. Both structures were pond) on both sides of Zuiryūtei, which modeled aer Toraya, a famous Odawara were spanned by bridges. confectioner. ★:Toyama Park’s Hakoneyama area has ve historic site markers.