How to Have Flu

THE COLLEGE PUMP How to Have Flu was. It was staggeringly good. Then a troops and requisitioned Fricker for the query came up from the kitchen: Had GIs’ kitchen. A captain stopped by to that entrée been satisfactory? I sent back test his soldiers’ fare and straightaway a note saying yes, it had been wonderful. promoted the chef to the officers’ mess. I received back a polite note of thanks. Fricker later was sent to the United “The rumor back then,” Barry writes, States and ran the kitchens at three “was that the chef (whom no patient prisoner-of-war camps in Missouri. At “Your wooden arm you hold outstretched ever saw, to my knowledge) had been war’s end he returned to Germany, but to shake with passers-by.” the chef of Field Marshal Erwin Rom- three years later emigrated to the United mel, who depended on him so much that States. He cooked in various venues and hen David Barry ’63 was he took him to Africa for his eponymous for a time dished up his Rahmschnitzel, in college, he looked for- tank battle at El Alamein. The story was vol-au-vents, and stroganoff for patients ward to flu season with so good that I discounted it. In my ex- in Stillman. He died in Weymouth, Mas- some enthusiasm. He lived perience, stories as good as that always sachusetts, in 1988. These days, Stillman Woff campus and alone, and when he felt turn out not to be true.” patients are fed by Harvard University aches and shivers coming on, he checked But it was true. Germany drafted chef Hospitality and Dining Services. into Stillman Infirmary in Hol yoke Cen- Bruno G. Fricker in 1939 to instruct In Africa, Fricker had indeed been ter. mess sergeants in the culinary arts. He Rommel’s chef. He told this magazine, “It was like going to a European spa,” was taken prisoner in 1943 by the Eng- for an article in the February 17, 1962, is- Barry recalls in a letter to this maga- lish but wound up in the custody of the sue (Barry missed it; perhaps he was in zine. “It was right in Harvard Square, Americans. They discovered his talents the infirmary), that he had concocted a and it was sumptuous. Living off cam- and put him in charge of the prisoners’ special stew for the Desert Fox, whom he pus, I didn’t eat particularly well—and mess. An inspecting sergeant, testing the addressed as “Pop.” “Real cooking is very the meals at the infirmary were not to be prisoners’ food one day, found that they important,” said Fricker. “One must cook believed. A menu was sent to you in the were eating better than the American with heart and love.” morning asking your choices for lunch and dinner. There would always be at least two entrées, often three, with a full choice of side orders of vegetables. More food: Cooking has entered Frequently there would be an entrée the General Education curriculum I had never tasted or heard of before. this fall with “Science and Cook- The food was as good as that at any ing: From Haute Cuisine to Soft restaurant I had ever been to.” Matter Science.” Each week a world- Barry is now an award-winning class chef lectures on an aspect of investigative journalist and lives gastronomy, motivating lectures in Newtown, Pennsylvania. He by professors on the science of soft continues his recollection of the materials, of which all food is made. delicious good old days: “I once The chefs also give public talks. For ordered something that required coverage of the first one—by Ferran being brought up to my room on a Adrià, master of culinary foams— steam table because the chef want- other videos, and the schedule of ed to be sure it was at the proper lectures to come, see http://seas.har- temperature when it arrived. It vard.edu/cooking. vprimus v 76 November - December 2010 Illustration by Mark Steele.

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