Welcome to Le Coteau , South-west

Section Page

1. Welcome to Le Coteau … Welcome to Miradoux … Welcome to Gascony 2

2. The village of Miradoux 3

3. Le Coteau 4

4. Touring the region 6

5. Dining out 14

6. Shopping – markets and retail centres 15

7. Leisure activities 16

8. Flora & fauna 17

9. Bookings – rates, terms and conditions 18

Welcome to Le Coteau ………. Welcome to Miradoux ..…….. Welcome to Gascony

Le Coteau is our beautiful home in Miradoux, a picturesque medieval village 100km west of Toulouse in the heart of the French region known as Gascony (Gascogne) or the . Gascony is essentially rural, with magnificent rolling hills, lush fields, wooded copses and pristine streams. As Frederic Coustols wrote in Une Terre Lointaine – La Gascogne, to live in Gascony is ‘…to experience a way of life whose harmony can be learnt only be a deep understanding of the earth …’.

Wherever your interests lie, Gascony should captivate you. There is much to discover and make your experience memorable – sleepy mediaeval villages, tiny bastides, castles, churches, museums, chateaus and bustling small market towns with large arcaded squares. You’ll certainly enjoy sampling the regional gastronomy. Gascony has some of the best food in France with prime quality local ingredients such as duck, goose, fish, fruit, vegetables, a bewildering range of cheeses and wines, and, of course foie gras, cassoulet, armagnac and sauternes. The hundreds of restaurants and markets cater for a discerning local clientele, and they invariably offer excellent quality and better value for money than more tourist-oriented areas such as the Dordogne and Provence!

Gascony is stunningly beautiful in all seasons, and a holiday-maker’s delight. The long, balmy days of summer are ideal for sightseeing, with average maximum temperatures of 25 – 30o from May to September. April and October are just a little cooler, and perhaps even more pleasant.

Most of all, however, to stay at Le Coteau for a time is to experience the French provincial lifestyle. Imagine … waking up in the morning, opening the shutters and wandering up to the boulangerie to collect freshly-baked bread to bring back for a leisurely breakfast on the terrace. No doubt it will be leisurely, as you linger to enjoy the panoramic views and decide which experiences to savour today.

Perhaps you’ll pack a typical picnic – bread, cheese, ham and a bottle of rosé – to enjoy in a beautiful mediaeval bastide, by a quiet river, or at a lonely hilltop ruin. Alternatively, you might venture further afield to the , or to Bordeaux, or to Sarlat, or to Toulouse. Upon return you might stroll around the village in the early evening, observing the local Miradousains playing boules or out for a walk themselves. You might stop at the bar for a chat and a drink before returning home to barbecue on the terrace watching the sun set and the lights of the small hamlets come on. It’s a time to relax, have another glass of wine, talk about the discoveries of the day, and plan new adventures for tomorrow.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 2

The village of Miradoux

Situated between (the capital of Gers) and , Miradoux was established as a hilltop castelnau in 1253AD. Now with a population of around 500 residents, it is surrounded by rolling hills and valleys studded with tiny villages and hamlets, old Gascon farms, vineyards, orchards and wooded copses. During the warmer months, the area becomes vibrant with sunflowers.

Neat and entirely charming, Miradoux is characterised by its historic covered market, 15th century church, stone houses, quiet streets and panoramic views. It has a small supermarket (which sells petrol, diesel and gas), a tabac (newsagency/tobacconist), a pharmacy, a restaurant/café and a bank (with an ATM that accepts the usual cards). As well, all of the main trades and services are available, including a primary school, a police station, a nurse practitioner and a doctor.

The local economy is based on farming and agriculture, with cattle, geese, ducks, sunflowers, corn, garlic and stone-fruit important. Vineyards are also very much in evidence – the Gers has more than 20,000 hectares under grapes for table wine, and it’s the home of armagnac. Tourism is critical to the micro-economy – visitors come from far and wide to admire the countryside, and to walk one of the major pilgrimage pathways leading to Santiago de Compostella.

Most shops open early, close for a long lunch, then re-open in the afternoon and evening until around 7.00 pm. Saturday is market day. Nearby has a full range of shops and facilities including a large supermarket, a hardware store, estate agents, banks, bookshops, a speciality wine store, estate agents, and several restaurants, bars and cafés.

Miradoux is easily reached from Toulouse (100 km) and Agen (30 km), both of which are, in turn, easily reached by plane, train and auto-route from Paris and other major centres. Hire cars can be collected and returned at Toulouse, Agen, Auch and all other major centres.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 3

Le Coteau

Le coteau means ‘the hillside’ in French. The name was chosen to reflect Miradoux’s origins as a fortified hilltop castelnau, and the elevated location certainly explains the spectacular views from the main bedroom, kitchen and terrace. The street address is 22 Grand Rue, Miradoux, and the house is no more than a few minutes walk from any part of the village.

Constructed in the 16th century, Le Coteau epitomises the architecture of the region and the style of construction – multi-storey with external walls constructed from local stone, lots of exposed beams, timber staircases, large rooms with internal columbage (plaster and timber) walls and high ceilings, shuttered windows and beautiful fireplaces. The house stays cool in summer, but electric heating in every room ensures that it is cosy and inviting during the cooler months.

Sensitively renovated to retain many of the original features, the living areas have been furnished using pieces collected from throughout Gascony. At the same time, the kitchen and bathrooms have modern accoutrements. With four large bedrooms and two modern bathrooms, Le Coteau accommodates 4 – 6 adults very comfortably.

Ground floor

The front door (off Grand Rue) leads straight into the entrance hall, which still retains the original tiles and wood-panelled dado. Leading off the entrance hall through wooden French doors is the main living area which has stone walls, exposed beams, timbered ceilings, a decorative fireplace and polished wooden flooring. The room is fully furnished with a comfortable two-and-a-half seater couch, lounge chairs, and other pieces of provincial furniture. A small selection of books and games is stored in a bookcase, with a CD player and a selection CDs in an antique bureau.

Further along, the entrance hall opens into a spacious, light-filled dining area separated from the kitchen by an island benchtop. The kitchen is well-appointed: self-defrosting fridge, gas/electric stove, microwave oven and all usual the appliances, china, glassware, cutlery and utensils. A separate laundry opens off the kitchen, equipped with a new front-loading washing machine, iron and ironing board, and a clothes drying rack.

The kitchen/dining area opens out through double doors to a terrace with an outdoor dining setting for six and a gas barbeque. This area really does have picture-postcard views, and it’s a great place to relax at any time of the day.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 4

First floor

A beautiful wooden staircase in a columbage stairwell leads from the ground floor up to the first and second floors. The first floor has two spacious bedrooms. The master bedroom features a dramatic columbage wall, exposed beams, timber ceilings, a decorative fireplace and a new (and very comfortable) double bed. Filled with natural sunlight through the shuttered windows, this bedroom has magnificent view of the local landscape. A modern en-suite bathroom leads off this bedroom, with a shower, WC and vanity basin.

The second bedroom is similarly spacious, and it also features stone walls, exposed wooden beams, timbered ceilings, and a terrific Toulousian brick fireplace with a wooden mantelpiece. Shuttered windows overlook the quiet street. This room has its own modern bathroom – also very spacious – with a shower, vanity basin and WC.

Second floor

From the landing on the top floor you’ll find two bedrooms. Both have steeply-angled ceilings supported by exposed oak rafters, natural light supplied through skylights and/or porthole windows, and electric heating. As a result, the rooms have something of an ‘attic’ feel, although they’re considerably roomier than the typical Parisian grenier!

One of the rooms on the second floor has a large double bed. The other has two single beds. However, neither has en-suite facilities, so it’s necessary to walk downstairs to reach a bathroom.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 5

Touring the region

The Gers is a great area for sightseeing – beautiful scenery, great hospitality, diverse flora and fauna, numerous art galleries, distinctive architecture, terrific speciality shops, and so forth. It’s not at all over-crowded, and most roads and walking trails are quiet and easy to navigate.

Nearby villages and towns

The immediate area surrounding Miradoux is studded with delightful villages, mostly established many centuries ago as castelnaus or bastides. Each has its own history, traditions, architecture, cuisine and micro-economy, but the similarities are equally obvious and reflective of the overarching culture of south-west France. The following notes for 14 villages and townships, all within 30 – 40 km of Miradoux (and many much closer), should ‘whet your appetite’. Of course, there are many other sites of equal interest in the vicinity, and innumerable day trips from which to choose.

Lectoure

Lectoure is a Gallo-roman village perched on a hill about 10 km south of Miradoux. It offers great views of the surrounding countryside – as far as the Pyrenees from some points – great shops, restaurants and cafés, some terrific museums and churches, and the famous castles of Saint-Mere and Gramont. The cathedral was initially constructed in the 13th century, and an impressive bell-tower was added in 1488AD. An important regional centre for the arts (and one of the six ‘national photographic centres’ in France), Lectoure has an interesting festival each year in August.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 6

Saint Clar

Known as the garlic capital of France, Saint Clar is an ancient bastide founded in 1274AD under the auspices of Edward 1 of England. Saint Clar has two terrific squares, a magnificent 13th century covered market, and many half-timbered houses dating from the 13th and 14th centuries. There are terrific views of the Valley, and the very picturesque hamlets of Mauroux and are nearby. Saint Clar is home to France’s Museum of the Public School, and to the Gascon Castle of .

Auch

Auch has been the historical capital of Gascony since 409AD. Now a town of some 25,000 inhabitants, it retains many buildings of interest from diverse periods. Construction of Cathedrale Saint-Pierre (on the main square) commenced in 1489AD, and took nearly 200 years. It has a magnificent Renaissance façade, two 44m towers, and a nave more than 100m long. Other edifices of note include the 15th century tourist office, a terrific museum in a converted convent, and a monumental staircase (with 370 steps and a famous statue of the musketeer D’Artagnan) linking the town to the Gers River. It’s a great place to wander around. There are great views of the Pyrenees from Place Salinis in the old part of town (which also features very interesting narrow, winding streets).

Condom

The typically Gascon town of Condom grew up around its decorative cathedral. It was almost destroyed by the Huguenots during the Wars of Religion, but the locals paid a huge ransom to stave off disaster and preserve the town's heritage.

Condom lies at the centre of the armagnac region and also prospers from selling grain, flour and timber. The River Baise stretches alongside the old quays that were hollowed out to transport armagnac to Bordeaux, and river cruises are interesting and affordable. Elegant 18th-century mansions in Condom include Hotel de Gallard (on Rue H ) and Hotel de Gensac (Rue de ). Although they’re not open to the public, they’re worth a look from the outside. Other places to visit include Castle (great views), the Musée des Jacobins (housed in a 15th century Dominican monastery) and Musée del’Armagnac (where you’ll learn all you’ll ever need to know about armagnac and cognac.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 7

Agen

After rapid expansion during the Gallo-Roman period, Agen was sacked by Germanic invaders during the 5th century, and then by invaders from North Africa during the 8th century. During the 10th century it became part of the new Dukedom of Gascony, which was incorporated into the State of Aquitaine in 1032AD. Agen flourished during the Renaissance as a centre for arts and sciences under a succession of Italian-born bishops. This era was brought to a halt by the Wars of Religion, with peace not descending until 1598AD and the Treaty of Nantes.

Agen has a rich cultural heritage. Places to visit include St Caprais Cathedral, the covered market (a showcase for local gastronomy, seven mornings per week), the Dairy Market (place des Laitiers, Boulevard de la République), the mid-19th century railway station, and the Italianate Docurneau Theatre. Agen also boasts excellent shops, restaurants, cafés and bars.

Fources

Fources is the only ‘circular’ bastide. A fortified village founded in the 12th century, its half- timbered houses form a circle around a shady central area. Nestled in a loop of the Auzoue River, Fources is regarded as one of the prettiest villages in southern France. It has a renaissance chateau and an annual flower market in May.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 8

Fleurance

Founded as a bastide in 1272AD, was named after Florence (Firenze) in Tuscany. Now a pretty township with 6,500 residents, Fleurance has much to interest visitors – specialty shops around the arcaded central square, and the covered market dates from 1833AD. The town also boasts an attractive 9-hole golf course set in a forest of ash and oak.

Larressingle

One of the smallest fortified villages in France, was designed so that its inhabitants could ensure its defence. Much of the defence system remains intact, and there is a display of medieval war machines as well as a reconstruction of a 13th century siege camp. Villagers still live within the castle walls, where there is an art gallery, a café and a number of small craft shops.

Valence-sur-Baise

Valence-sur-Baise is a river port township at the junction of the Baise and Auzoue Rivers. It was established in 1274AD near the Cistercian Abbey of Flaran (pictured), which pre-dated the town by more than a century. Valence-sur-Baise is characterised by beautiful 17th century architecture, with many nearby castles and chateaux. It has a good range of shops and restaurants, and a splendid arts centre.

Romieu

Romieu is an old ecclesiastical town on the St Jacques de Compostella pilgrimage trail. It has a very imposing 14th century college, visible from many kilometres away, and an old priory. Now with some 550 residents, Romieu is officially designated as a ‘village of character’.

Moissac

Moissac is a key name in art history for one reason: the cloister and porch of the Abbey Church of Saint-Pierre, a masterpiece of Romanesque sculpture and the model for hundreds of churches elsewhere. Miraculously, it has survived countless wars and a major siege by Simon de Montfort during his crusade against the Cathars.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 9

Sarrant

Sarrant is a picturesque medieval town classified among the ‘most beautiful villages of France’. Situated on the left bank of the Sarrampion River, Sarrant has the appearance of an ecclesiastical village. The church has a beautiful 18th century pulpit decorated with marble panels and a wooden confessional sculptured in the same period. Although most of the village’s protective walls and ditches have all but disappeared, one 14th century gate remains. Inside, the main street is lined with high stone mansions, each with a timbered upper storey.

Montréal

Montréal du Gers was founded by Alphonse of Poitiers in 1255AD, on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Auzoue River 15km west of Condom. Now a small town numbering 1,250 residents, Montréal is home to the well-preserved remains of a Gallo-Roman villa, complete with mosaic tiles and thermal baths. There is also an interesting 12th century Gothic church with an impressive bell tower. Surrounded by the vineyards from which armagnac is produced, the narrow streets of Montréal are full of interest. There is a great market square, many shops, and several restaurants, cafés and bars.

Cologne

Cologne was founded in 1284AD, and it retains its 14th century market and Gothic church. Approximately 30 km east of Auch, and with a population of approximately 600, the town has a lively central square surrounded by narrow winding streets. The architecture is distinctive, and there are a couple of good restaurants.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 10

Travelling further afield – some suggested day trips

Once again, there are limitless options, but some of the most attractive and interesting possibilities are summarised below.

Bordeaux

Bordeaux is an elegant port city with close to a million residents – the capital of the Aquitaine région. It is generally regarded as the global wine capital, and the great chateaus nearby produce (arguably) the finest red wines in the world – mostly blends of cabernet sauvignon and merlot. As well, Bordeaux has a very strong tradition in the visual and performing arts, a wealth of beautiful architecture, great shops, restaurants and bars, and it’s a major centre for space and aeronautics research. Further information is available at www.bordeaux-tourisme.com

Saint Emilion

Thirty-five kilometers northeast of Bordeaux, the medieval town of Saint Emilion overlooks the Dordogne valley. World Heritage listed, and the only wine-growing area in the world to be classified by UNESCO, Saint Emilion is an amazing open-air ‘museum’. Surrounded by a fortified wall with seven ancient gateways, there are many classified buildings made of local stone. As well, there are more than 70 hectares of underground galleries dug out of solid limestone, many of them used for wine storage and accessible to the public, and a remarkable monolithic church. Outside the walls, the town is surrounded by vineyards – Saint-Emilion produces wine of great tradition (mostly cabernet franc blended with a little merlot), famous at least as far back as the Gallo-Roman period. Further information is available at www.saint-emilion-tourisme.com

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 11

Pyrenees – Andorra, Lourdes and Pau

The Pyrenees stretch from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean, dividing France from Spain. Reaching to more than 3400 m above sea level, they provide spectacular views year-round, and top-class skiing and snowboarding in the winter. Mountains, valleys, waterfalls, lakes, caves, picturesque villages, monasteries, chapels and walking trails – the Pyrenees has it all. Lourdes alone receives more than 5 million visitors each year, many of them seeking a miraculous cure at the site where a local girl had numerous visions of the Virgin Mary in 1858AD. Tiny Andorra offers duty-free shopping in a spectacular valley setting, while elegant Pau has terrific buildings, squares, shops, restaurants and views. Further information is available at www.parc-pyrenees.com/index_english.htm and also at www.123voyage.com/realsw/towns/pau.htm

Carcassonne

Since the pre-Roman period, a fortified settlement has existed on the hill where Carcassonne now stands. In its present form it is an outstanding example of a medieval fortified town, with its massive defences encircling the castle and the surrounding buildings, its streets and its fine Gothic cathedral. From the World Heritage point of view, Carcassonne is also of exceptional importance because of the lengthy restoration campaign undertaken by Viollet-le-Duc, one of the founders of the modern science of conservation. Further information is available at www.carcassonne-tourisme.com

Sarlat

Sarlat-La Canéda is a beautifully preserved with many wonderful thirteenth and fourteenth century buildings. It became a city during the 8th century AD and, despite control swapping several times between the English and the French during the Hundred Years War, its ancient buildings remain in great condition. It’s a terrific place to wander around, day or night, with excellent shops, restaurants, museums and galleries. The Saturday market (in Place de la Liberté) is famous throughout the south- west, though Wednesday morning is less busy and perhaps better for food-lovers. Further advice is available at www.sarlat.com and www.ot.sarlat-perigord.fr

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 12

Rocamadour

A medieval town dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Rocamadour is built on a limestone cliff-face 150m above the Alzou Canyon. The pilgrimage to Rocamadour has long been one of the most famous in Christendom, on the way to Santiago de Compostela. Henry Plantagenet, King of England, was among the first to kneel before the Virgin there, and Rocamadour continues to attract the faithful. They come to pray to the Black Madonna and Saint Amadour in one of the seven chapels in the heart of the town. Further information is available at www.rocamadour.com/index-us.htm

Saint-Cirque-Lapopie

Saint-Cirq-Lapopie sits on a massive rocky outcrop 100m above the Lot River. From the old castle above the town it’s possible to look down on the beautifully preserved 15th century township – stone houses with steep roofs and mullioned windows nestled along narrow streets. There are many shops, cafés, and restaurants to while away the hours, and magnificent views of the river. Further information is available at www.quercy-tourisme.com/st-cirq-lapopie/english/saint-cirq_english.html

Toulouse

Toulouse is known as ‘la ville rose’ because of the colour of its bricks and tiles. The capital of the Midi-Pyrénées Region, it is situated on the banks of the River, and the population of the city is 600,000+, and growing. Toulouse is a bustling centre of commerce and industry – home of the Airbus and Concorde – but it also has a very proud tradition in diverse arts. Opera, theatre, music and dance are all important. Toulouse has great markets (covered and open air), terrific shops, important galleries, and many delightful buildings and squares. Spanish and Moorish influences on the architecture are obvious, and Toulouse boasts more Renaissance mansions than any other city in France. Further information is available at www.mairie-toulouse.fr and www.cict.fr/toulouse.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 13

Dining out

French restaurants generally have their menus prominently displayed in the window for passers-by to peruse and check the prices. The fixed price menus usually represent excellent value. That is, you can choose an entrée, a main and a dessert from the limited range offered for each course, for a fixed price. A more expensive menu will provide you with greater choice, usually including some more expensive main courses to choose from, and often including a choice of cheese instead of dessert. Alternatively, you can order à la carte, and choose anything from the menu at the listed price.

Most restaurants in rural France open from 12.00noon to 2.30 pm, and from 7.00pm till 10.30pm. However, many are closed on one or two days each week – usually Monday or Tuesday. Throughout the Gers and elsewhere in south-west France, restaurants away from the main tourist centres are wonderful and affordable. Here’s a selection:

Miradoux

• L’Etape, 6 Route de Lectoure (regional specialities, pizzas) – ph. 05 62 28 61 43

Saint-Clar

• Le Rison, place de la Lomagne (regional cuisine) – 05 62 66 40 21 • Pizzeria l’Arlequin, place de la Lomagne (Italian; pizzas) – 05 62 66 33 21 • Restaurant de la Base de la Loisirs (regional cuisine) – 05 62 66 31 37

Agen

• L’Amstramgram, 27 rue Jacquard (regional cuisine) – ph. 05 53 47 69 69 • L’Atelier, 14 rue du Jeu de Paume (regional cuisine) – ph. 05 53 87 89 22 • Le Bacchus, 29 bis rue Vollairn (regional cuisine) – 05 53 95 14 80 • Le Basilikos, rue de Trech (Mediterranean, including pizzas) – 05 53 98 23 65 • La Boucherie, boulevard Sylvain Dumon (meat) – 05 53 67 08 60 • Le Carnot, 105 boulevard Carnot (regional cuisine) – 05 53 47 31 23 • Les Dunes, 8 rue Sentini (fish) – 05 53 66 07 81

Condom

• Bodega el Callejon, 49 rue Gambetta (Spanish cuisine, especially tapas) – 05 62 28 31 13 • La Table des Cordeliers, 1 rue Cordeliers (regional specialities) – 05 62 68 43 82 • Le Pavé dans La Mare, route d’ (regional specialities) – 05 62 28 25 00 • Le Relais des Chasseurs, 3 boulevard Libération (meat/game) – 05 62 28 20 14 • Pizzéria Café des Sport, 16 rue Monnaie (Italian, wood fired pizza) – 05 62 28 33 32 • Restaurant les Trois Lys, 38 rue Gambetta (regional cuisine) – 05 62 28 33 33 • Restaurant Le Hong Kong, 9 av d’Aquitaine (Vietnamese) – 05 62 68 25 10 • El Marrakech, rue de la République (Moroccan baguettes – lunch only)

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 14

Auch

• Le Jardin d’Aucoin, 9 rue Louis-Aucoin (specialises in sauerkraut) – ph. 05 62 61 85 36 • Le Gersois, 5 rue de la Somme (regional family cuisine) – ph. 05 62 05 23 13 • La Table d’Hôtes, 7 rue Lamartine (traditional regional cuisine) – ph. 05 62 05 55 62 • Le Glacier, 27 avenue d’Alsace (pizza; brasserie) – ph. 05 62 63 21 21 • Les Daroles, 4 place de la Libération (fish; regional specialities) – ph. 05 62 05 00 51 • Havana Playa Café, 1 rue Camille Desmoulins (regional tapas bar) – ph. 05 62 05 29 29 • Le Stromboli, 3.5km towards (Mediterranean) – ph. 05 62 61 86 44 • Le Pastificci, 19, rue Marceau (regional specialities; fish) – ph. 05 62 05 29 33 • La Roma, 165 rue Victor Hugo (Italian) – ph. 05 62 61 81 81 • Le France, 5 rue de la République (regional specialities) – ph. 05 62 05 01 15 • Chez Wen, 14 rue d’Etigny (Thai/Vietnamese) – ph. 05 62 05 96 55

Lectoure

• Le Bastard, rue Lagrange (regional cuisine) – 05 62 68 82 44 • Le Gascogne, 121 rue Alsace Lorraine (regional cuisine) – 05 62 68 77 57 • Sarl les Bouviers, 8 rue Montebello (international cuisine) – 05 62 68 95 13 • La Rose du Chat, 28 rue Sainte Claire (regional cuisine) – 05 • Les Galis, route nationale (regional cuisine) – 05 62 68 88 28

Shopping – markets and retail centres

Markets have long been an important part of life in Gascony, as they have throughout France. Each town and village has one or more markets – some specialised, and some more general, and some daily and some weekly. These markets provide a great opportunity to pick up high quality regional produce at very competitive prices.

The Miradoux market is generally held on a Saturday morning, and it’s usually quite small – just a few stalls selling local produce. Other nearby markets with a little more to offer are as follows:

• Agen (the main covered market is open every day but Monday, morning and late afternoon) • Auch (Saturday; Thursday morning) • Castera-Verduzan (Sunday morning) • Condom (Wednesday) • Eauze (Thursday – a very good general market with many regional specialities) • Fleurance (Tuesday – especially good for organic farm products) • (Sunday – many duck and goose products) • Lectoure (Friday – great for local food, especially early in the morning) • Saint-Clar (Thursday – great for garlic) • Valence-sur-Baise (Wednesday morning) • Vic-Fezensac (Friday morning)

All of the major towns have retail centres with many shops, including the ubiquitous ‘self-service’ supermarkets. Important names to remember are HyperU, Intermarché, Géant and Carrefours – they’re the analogues of stores such as Safeway, Coles-Myer, Woolworths and K-Mart in various parts of Australia, although none of them are exact matches. Large towns such as Agen and Auch will have at least three of the four mentioned – generally they’re located in an industrial zone (zone industriele) just outside the historic central area.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 15

Leisure activities

Cycling and walking

Virtually the whole of Gascony is terrific for cycling and walking, especially in autumn and spring. Summer can be hot, especially in late July and August, and winter is often quite cold (especially in December and January). In the west, in the area known as Landes towards the Atlantic, the countryside is very flat. Fragrant pine-forest predominates. In the east, medieval towns and villages are linked by gently undulating roads and walking tracks through cornfields, vines and sunflowers. To the south, there are many great walking trails in the Pyrenees, although the terrain is steep. Throughout, the lack of traffic on all except the major roads makes for ideal cycling and walking.

Golf

There’s a pretty nine-hole course at Fleurance, and a challenging (very hilly) 18-hole course at Auch. Probably the best courses in the vicinity are at Eauze, Lannemezan and Mont-de-, the latter being about an hour from Miradoux by car. Courses in the nearby Pyrenees are spectacular, including those at Bagnères de Bigorre and Pau.

Tennis

Many towns in the vicinity of Miradoux have tennis courts available for public hire, including Condom, Eauze, Lectoure and Valence.

Skiing and snowboarding

Most of the main ski resorts in the Pyrenees are a couple of hours away by car, including Tourmalet, St Lary, Luchon, Gourette, Hautacam and Cauterets. As a general rule, the season is long: November – April in most years.

Canoeing

From Beaucaire you can join in escorted canoe trips down the Baise River to Valence-sur-Baise, returning by mini-bus. Generally these trips run every day during the warmer months, but you’ll need to check times at the river or tourist office. Alternatively, you can travel by boat down the Baise from Condom to Valence-sur-Baise each afternoon (or take the special lunch trip on Sundays).

Wine-tasting

Many Gers wineries offer tastings and cellar door sales, with most producing high quality Côtes du Gascogne reds and whites, with the latter predominating. Some also produce armagnac and Floc de Gascogne – a sweet wine made by combining armagnac with unfermented grape juice. Examples of wineries that welcome visitors are as follows (although opening times and days can be variable).

• Domaine d’Arton and Domaine Le Rosier d’Angélique at Lectoure • Domaine Monluc at Saint Puy • Les Acacias at • Domaine Cachiquet, Domaine de Fils de Fleur and Domaine du la Haille at Montréal • Domaine d’Embidoure and Les Trois Domaines at Rejaumont Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 16

Flora and fauna

Gascony borders the Pyrenees National Park, and both areas are rich in vegetation. For the wildflower enthusiast, there are many orchids, a diverse range of alpine species (including the Pyrenees Star of Bethlehem Ornithogalum pyrenaicum, the Trumpet Gentian Gentiana clusii, the Alpine Rose Rosa pendulina, the Iris Iris lutescens and assorted crocuses, primulas and daffodils. There are also many herbs used (traditionally and currently) for medicinal and culinary purposes. The dominant trees throughout Gascony are varieties of oak, beech, fir, scots pine, birch and rowan – in the west, the area known as Landes is characterised by extensive tracts of pine forest. In the Pyrenees to the south, altitude determines the distribution of species more than anything else.

The Gers is a refuge for many endangered animal species, as is the Pyrenees National Park. Both of these areas are great for bird watching, with birds of prey particularly conspicuous. For example, the Pyrenees is home to the very large Lammergier (Bearded Vulture, pictured) and the smaller Egyptian Vulture and Griffon Vulture, as well as the Golden Eagle, Bonelli’s Eagle, Peregrine Falcon, Common Buzzard and Kestrel. Other interesting birds include the Ptarmigan, Snow Finch, Wallcreeper, Capercaillie, Firecrest, Rock Thrush, Citril Finch, Alpine Accentor and Black Woodpecker (the largest woodpecker in Europe).

Mammals of note include the ermine, stoat, hedgehog, marmot, desman, pine marten, wild boar and fox. Good populations also exist of the endangered Pyrenean Chamois (pictured), and the very rare and spectacular Pyrenean Bear.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 17

Bookings – rates, terms & conditions

We aim to provide you with all the essentials and conveniences needed to make your stay at Le Coteau comfortable and memorable. Our local property manager, Vanessa Harris, lives nearby in Lectoure – she speaks both English and French, and she’ll ensure that everything is ready for your arrival. Should you need assistance with anything in the house, or should you want shopping or sightseeing suggestions, Vanessa will be only too happy to help.

Le Coteau is maintained at a high standard. Fresh linen is provided, including towels, as are some basic essentials such as tea, coffee, cleaning products and a picnic set. Nearby Lectoure has a tourist bureau to assist you in your explorations, as do Agen, Auch and all major towns throughout Gascony.

Rental costs:

For 2006, the weekly rental is $A850 per week for two people. Extra guests are charged at $A50 per week. These charges are fully inclusive: provision of linen, heating, electricity, gas and full use of the house. Bookings run from Saturday to Saturday – you can arrive anytime after 2 pm and the departure time is 10 am.

To book, complete the reservation form overleaf, and sent it to us with a deposit of $A200 per week – payment can be made by cash or cheque, and the price will not change once your deposit has been received. Full payment is due six (6) weeks before booking date and is not refundable. Clients are advised to take out travel insurance at least 6 weeks before departure.

Booking conditions:

A condition of booking, is that in lieu of payment of a security bond, guests agree to leave the house in a proper and clean condition, and to replace any damaged items after notifying the Property Manager. You should also be aware that use of Le Coteau is offered entirely at the user’s risk. The owners and their representatives accept no responsibility for injury to persons or any loss or damage to their property during the use of the home and facilities. Payment of the deposit constitutes unconditional agreement to these conditions.

Changes to weeks booked and cancellations:

There is no penalty for changing any week for another week subject to availability. Deposits will only be refunded on the following basis:

- at least 6 weeks notice has been given of the cancellation/change of booking required - any weeks cancelled can be re-booked and the refund will occur only after full payment from another client is received - Any expenses incurred in re-letting the property will be deducted from the deposit.

In the event that it is not possible to refund a deposit, half the value of that deposit will be credited towards any future booking.

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 18

Le Coteau

Accommodation Booking Form

Name

Address

Town State Postcode

Phone (home) Phone (work)

Email address:

Dates requested: From: To:

Number of guests: adults child/children

Reservations are available on a Saturday to Saturday, week-long basis. Weekly Rates: $850 per 2 guests and $50 for each additional person. Rates are inclusive of all fees for heating, linen and cleaning.

A deposit of $200 for each week of the reservation should accompany this form.

How to Book: Phone 0409 954 192 to check availability if you have not already done so. Please then send your completed accommodation booking form by email to [email protected], or fax to 03 9214 5483 or post to T Aumann, 24 Caroline Street, Hawthorn East, Victoria, Australia, 3123

Your deposit of $200 per week booked can be paid in cash or by cheque (made payable to: Tom Aumann). The balance is due no later than 6 weeks prior to your arrival. If you book within 6 weeks of your arrival date, the total amount is due with your initial booking. Following receipt of your final payment we will contact you with detailed instructions for collecting the key and any other information you may require.

Cancellations: A refund will be made if we are able to re-let the property, but expenses incurred in doing so will be deducted from the deposit. We recommend that you arrange travel insurance that includes cancellation cover and full cover for your belongings, public liability as these are not covered by our insurance.

Arrival/Departure: The house will be available from 2 pm on the day of arrival until 10am on the day of departure (unless alternative arrangements are made).

Cleaning and Breakages: The house is maintained at a very high standard, cleaned between guests and provided with fresh clean linen. In good faith, we do not ask for a security deposit but request that you leave the house clean and in good order, and that you also replace any breakages that may occur during your stay.

The use of the accommodation is entirely at the users’ risk. The owners and their representatives take no responsibility whatsoever for injury and for any loss or damage to the users or their property. Payment of the deposit constitutes unconditional acceptance of these conditions, booking terms and conditions, without recourse.

Signature: Date:

Le Coteau at Miradoux in Gascony 19