Montana — One Landscape for People and Wildlife

2020 TRAVEL GUIDE REDISCOVERMT.COM

YOUR LOCAL GUIDE FOR THINGS TO DO IN MONTANA LEE NEWSPAPERS OF MONTANA Montana — One Landscape for People and Wildlife

License plate image: “The Great Bear” by Monte Dolack. More at www.dolack.com.

Save vital habitat. Put a bear on your car!

ontanans have always prized open space. It allows both people and wildlife to thrive Mhere. Nothing embodies wild Montana like our state animal, the grizzly bear. Vital Ground protects key habitat, connecting wild strongholds so grizzlies, other wildlife and people have room to roam. You can help Montana’s one landscape stay open and wild for future generations!

Support Montana’s wildlife and open space. Select a Vital Ground specialty license plate when you renew your vehicle registration.

The Vital Ground Foundation • 20 Fort Missoula Rd., Missoula, MT 59804 • [email protected] • www.vitalground.org • 406-549-8650 REDISCOVER MONTANA

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National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

GLACIER 3 COUNTRY REDISCOVER MONTANA RM S PRING/SUMMER 2015 YELLOWSTONE 8 COUNTRY

SOUTHWEST 19 COUNTRY

SOUTHEAST COUNTRY Lee Newspapers of Montana 26 rediscovermt.com

CENTRAL 38 COUNTRY MISSOURI RIVER 45 COUNTRY SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 1 ABOUT THIS SECTION Rediscover Montana is a publication of Lee NewspapersABOUT of Montana THIS — SECTION ABOUTThe Billings THIS Gazette, SECTION Missoulian, Rediscover Montana is a publication Montana Standard, Helena Independent of Lee Newspapers of Montana — RediscoverRecord MontanaABOUT and Ravalli is THIS a publication Republic. SECTION of Lee Newspapers ofThe Montana Billings —Gazette, Missoulian, The Billingsrediscovermt.comRediscover Gazette,Montana Montana Missoulian, Standard, ©2016 is a publication Helena Independent of Lee Newspapers of Montana — FROM THE GOVERNOR Montana Standard,The Billings Helena RecordGazette, Independent and Missoulian, Ravalli Republic. RecordMontana and Ravalli Standard, Republic.rediscovermt.com Helena Independent ©2018 rediscovermt.comCONTRIBUTORSRecord and ©2016 Ravalli Republic. FROMFROM THE THE GOVERNOR GOVERNOR rediscovermt.com ©2016 FROM THE GOVERNOR Chelsea Davis CONTRIBUTORSCONTRIBUTORSCONTRIBUTORS WELCOME TO MONTANA Vince Devlin WELCOME TO MONTANA Chelsea DavisChelsea Charity Davis Dewing Mike Ferguson Growing Growing up in Montana, up in I Montana, never took I never took WELCOMEWELCOME TOTO forMONTANAMONTANA grantedfor the granted spectacular the spectacular wide open wide open Vince DevlinVinceBrett Devlin French spaces thatspaces make that our state make one our of the state one of the Brett MikeFrench Ferguson Growinglast Growing trulylast up unspoiled up in truly Montana,in Montana, unspoiledplaces I never on I Earth. never took places took on Earth. Mike FergusonPerry Backus for granted the spectacular wide open spacesfor grantedMontana that make Montanathe is stillour spectacular statea place is one still where of wide athe place you open can where you can spaces that make our state one of the Mike KordenbrockBrettAnna French Paige lastwalk truly for unspoiledwalk miles forand places milessee more on and Earth. elk, see bear, more elk, bear, Brett French lastMontanaand truly troutand unspoiledis than still trout people.a place than places whereOur people. world-class on you Earth. can Our world-class Mike Kordenbrock walkrivers,Montana for miles majesticrivers, isand still seemountains,majestic a more place elk, wheremountains, and bear, rolling you can and rolling Tom KuglinMike Kordenbrock and trout than people. Our world-class Mike Kordenbrock walkplains for are miles where and I hunt, see moreﬁ sh and elk, hike bear, rivers, majesticplains mountains, are where and Irolling hunt, fish and hike Tom Kuglin andwith trout mywith family.than my people. family. Our world-class Pat Hansen plainsrivers, are majestic where I hunt, mountains, fish and andhike rolling TomMarga Kuglin Lincoln with myWe family. hopeWe your hope travels your will travels give you will the give you the Marga Lincoln plains are where I hunt, fish and hike Wesame hope specialsame your memoriestravels special will wememories give have you from the we have from Jesse Chaney with my family. samegrowing specialgrowing up memories here. On up webehalf here. have of fromOn the behalfpeople of the peo- MargaPaula Lincoln McGarveyPaula McGarvey growingWe hope up here. your On travels behalf ofwill the give peo- you the Rob Chaney plesameof of Montana, Montana, specialple of we memorieswe Montana, invite invite youyou we toto we have joinjoin invite usus from you to join us Paula McGarveyJaci WebbJaci Webb ingrowing exploringin exploring upin the exploringhere. the “Last “Last On Best behalf Best the Place.” Place.” “Last of the Best peo- Place.” Amy Joyner ple of Montana, we invite you to join us See you soon,See you soon, JaciLoren Webb BenoitLoren Benoit in exploringSee you soon, the “Last Best Place.” Casey Page Tom Bauer See you soon, Loren Benoit Tom BauerLarry Mayer Thom Bridge TomThom Bauer Bridge Walter Hinick Gov.Gov. Steve Steve Bullock Bullock Thom Bridge Gov. Steve Bullock Walter LarryHinick Mayer Walter Hinick Gov. Steve Bullock Larry MayerCasey Page FROM THE COVER Larry MayerHannah Potes Beautiful view of scenic highway with american rocky mountain landscape in the background during a Casey Page cloudy summer morning. Taken in St. Mary, Montana. Casey PageJames Woodcock Hannah Potes Bob Zellar Hannah Potes 2James REDISCOVER Woodcock MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 James Woodcock 8 REDISCOVERBob Zellar MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2016 Bob Zellar

8 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2016 8 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2016 REDISCOVER MONTANA

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Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

Mountaintop REDISCOVER MONTANA RM Bitterroot National S PRING/SUMMER 2015 Forests lookout towers treasures o er unique experiences By PERRY BACKUS unique opportunity to explore. Some reservation system at www.recreation. [email protected] can be reached over rugged roads by ve- gov Reservations can be made up to six hicle. Others are only a short walk from months in advance. There’s nothing quite like watching a nearby trailhead. To reach the most “For the most part, they are reserved the sunset from on top of a mountain in remote requires stamina and an over- from June to mid-September,” Strayer a room surrounded by glass. night backcountry stay. said. “Most fi ll up right away at the six Lee Newspapers of Montana The silence is broken only by the “People go to all of them,” said Rene month point… Sometimes people do rediscovermt.com sound of the wind against the window- Eustace, who retired in 2016 as the for- cancel and spots come open in the sum- panes as the skies turn red across a hori- est’s lookout coordinator. “Every one mer. If people are interested, it’s a good zon fi lled with purple mountains that o ers a completely di erent experience. idea to check the site frequently.” seem to go on forever. Some you can spend the night. At oth- The hike into both Mccart and Gird It’s an experience that hundreds of ers, you can meet the lookout working Point is relatively short, but those who visitors to the Bitterroot National For- there.” want select Medicine Point need to be est have every year through the forest’s If they’re not in the middle of search- prepared for a 3.5-mile march that heads fi re lookout rental program. But it’s not ing for a new smoke following a thun- right up the hill. the only way that people can tap into the derstorm, the lookouts will often take “It’s a di erent experience,” she said. rich history of the forest’s lookout tow- time for a tour of their summer home “It’s more backcountry than the others. ers that date back to 1915. and answer questions about life at the It is also defi nitely a good workout to get The Bitterroot National Forest has a top of a mountain is like. there.” total of 17 lookout towers that still stand “It’s a pretty unique experience for Visitors are asked to leave their com- watch over huge expanses of public many people,” Eustace said. “I like to ments in a book that’s left at each of the lands. think that besides the trail crew, look- rentals. Each one o ers visitors a outs are one of the last and really old- “It’s always really fun to read their time Forest Service jobs that are done comments,” Strayer said. “The public is basically the same way that they’ve always very appreciative that the look- been done for more than a century.” outs are available to them to rent. It is Of the 17 lookouts that a very unique experience to stay on the remain, three are open to top of a mountain in a fi re lookout.” public as rentals. All three of the lookouts on the rental Bitterroot Forest Rec- program are on the National Register of reation Manager Erica Historic Places. Strayer said the three “Lookouts on the forest go back a long rental lookout towers ways,” Eustace said. “Salmon Moun- — Mccart, Gird Point tain is the oldest that we have docu- and Medicine Point mentation. It was fi rst mentioned in the — can all be reserved through the national Please see Treasures, Page 7

The Mccart Fire Lookout is one of three lookouts on the Bitterroot National Forest available to the public to rent in the summer and fall. PERRY BACKUS/[email protected] SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 3 Where the WILD THINGS Some can’t miss and are: don’t miss options By ROB CHANEY sometimes share space with the [email protected] smaller and cuter pika. Listen for a distinctive “beeejj” call in ta- ourists often compare Yel- lus fields, where you might spot lowstone National Park to them ferrying mouthfuls of grass visiting an open-air zoo. to stockpile in burrows for winter T But there are other places food supplies. to see amazing wildlife during a Very lucky observers might Montana visit. find a few of Glacier’s mustelids: Oddly enough, Glacier Na- members of the weasel family. tional Park isn’t the best of them. These include river otters, mar- The northern park has stunning tens, mink, long-tailed, short- scenery and lots of wild animals, tailed and least weasels, and the but its rugged terrain and deep extremely rare king of mustelids forests keep them well hidden. — the wolverine. Areas where grizzly bears come Both black and grizzly bears near trails get closed quickly for frequent the same trails and public safety. meadows that tourists enjoy, Its Logan Pass Visitor Center and both omnivores require area at the midpoint of the Going- wide safety margins. All visi- to-the-Sun Road gets regular vis- tors, whether in developed areas its from mountain goats in their or deep backcountry, must keep white fur coats. Those motorists close watch on food supplies to and bikers who make it to the pass ensure prowling bears don’t get in June will see the goats in sea- any. Human food tends to have sonal shift, shedding their bulky far more calories than most wild winter coats for much shorter edibles, and bears quickly learn summer fur. By late September, to seek more after they get a first that hair will have grown back to taste. That leads to high-risk make the goats’ bodies look much conflict for both people and bears: bulkier. People have been injured and Elk and moose also wander (very rarely) killed by bears seek- into view occasionally in Glacier, ing food and bears accustomed ROB CHANEY but critter-counters would have to human food must be relocated A tiny pika totes a mouthful of grass to its winter hay pile, hidden in the better luck looking for small- or occasionally killed for public rocks above the Highline Trail. Its distinctive “Beeej” call is the best way er species. Hoary marmots fre- safety. to locate the 5-ounce rodents. quent many alpine trails, and Few of these animals get seen

4 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 from a car window in Glacier suitable for street vehicles except Park. Those who get out on trails in bad weather. No trailers or ve- and waterways have the best hicles longer than 30 feet are al- chance of finding them. lowed on the 19-mile Red Sleep • • • Mountain Road. For a different kind of wildlife Just north of the Bison Range, experience that actually requires a complex of state and feder- a car, consider the National Bison al wildlife refuges encompass Range. This 18,500-acre refuge a swarm of pothole lakes sup- between Missoula and Polson porting dozens of bird species. holds one of the nation’s most The Ninepipe and Pablo national genetically pure herds of bison, wildlife refuges and the Mon- captured by Salish Indian tribal tana Ninepipe Wildlife Man- members at the start of the 20th agement Area. A wide range of century from the last remaining ducks, geese and swans migrate wild herds. Around 300 of the through or nest in the waterbod- massive ungulates, which can ies, along with shorebirds like weigh a ton and launch a 5-foot yellowlegs and plovers, song- vertical leap, roam the mountain birds like red-winged blackbirds, at the center of the range. and sparrows, and many raptors In addition, drivers can of- including bald and golden eagles. ten see elk, pronghorn antelope, South of Missoula, the Lee whitetail and mule deer, coyotes Metcalf National Wildlife Ref- ROB CHANEY/For The Gazette and small bands of bighorn sheep uge has good driving and walk- root, Clark Fork and Blackfoot; and state parks such as Milltown as they work their way around ing trails beloved by bird-watch- abound with opportunities for State Park at Bonner for places to the Bison Range’s two main ers along the Bitterroot River. In impromptu wildlife spotting. prowl the riparian areas for bea- routes. The roads are well-main- fact, the three rivers converging Look for the numerous camp- ver, muskrats, great blue herons tained dirt surfaces, usually around Missoula; the Bitter- grounds, fishing access sites and osprey. Show Your Support Visit Local DMV For more information visit www.veteransmonumnet.org

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 5 GLACIER COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

ARLEE Info at: Lakecomotri.com. happy hour and features free live music, exceptional SUMMER ANNUAL MEMBERS ART SHOW & SALE food vendors and a beer/wine garden. Downtown ToNight ARLEE ESYAPQENYI (CELEBRATION) June 12-14 is held every Thursday evening from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. July 1-5 Show and sale of oil paintings, soft pastels, wa- from June-August. Info at: Missouladowntown.com. This 121st event includes dance and singing contests, a tercolors, photography and bronze sculpture. Bitter- MONTANA SENIOR OLYMPICS SUMMER GAMES 3-on-3 basketball tournament, a parade, powwow, food root River Inn, Hamilton. Info at: Montanaprofession- June 11-13 and more. Visit Arleepowwow.com for more information. alartistsassoc.com. From Pickleball and Golf held Thursday to Saturday’s DALY DAYS FESTIVAL Track and Field Games and Swimming, all winning ath- BIGFORK July 4-25 letes this year will be qualifiers for the national games, Music, food, fun, crafts and more as a celebration to be held in Fort Lauderdale, Fla., Nov. 5-18, 2021. Info WHITEWATER FESTIVAL at: Montana.fusesport.com or call (406) 552-6664. May 22 of Hamilton founder Marcus Daly. VInfo at: Hamilton- Bigfork’s annual Whitewater Festival draws kayakers downtownassociation.org. SUMMER MADE FAIR from all over the Northwest to compete on the thrill- BITTERROOT CELTIC GAMES & GATHERING June 21 ing rapids of the Wild Mile of the Swan River. Info at: Aug. 15-16 A modern art and handcrafted market featuring local Bigfork.org. Highland and Irish Dancing, Highland heavy athletic and regional artists and makers. 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Caras Park. Info at: Handmademontana.com. BIGFORK FOURTH OF JULY PARADE competitions for adults and children, international pipe July 4 and drum bands, the gathering of the clans, scotch, MISSOULA MARATHON Noon event begins in downtown Bigfork. mead and Irish whiskey tastings, vendors and live mu- June 26-28 Bigfork Summer Pro Rodeo sic. Info at Bcgg.org. A weekend celebration has evolved around the Sun- July 4-6 ANNUAL CHAMBER MICROBREW FESTIVAL day marathon and attracts runners from across the U.S. to run in one of many different runs offered. Info at: Saturday, Sunday and Monday at Bigfork Rodeo July 25 Missoulamarathon.org. Grounds, 2840 MT Hwy 82. Visitors are urged to wear At Second and Bedford Street in Hamilton, 3-10 p.m. Red White and Blue to the pro rodeo, while visiting the Lots of brews, wine, cider, food and music. Info at: vis- RIDES IN THE ROCKIES WEEKEND kids area, food and beverage vendors, and live music. itbitterrotvalley.com. July 24-25 Free Parking. Info at: Bigforkrodeo.com. This new event held at Fort Missoula Regional Park is BIGFORK FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS HOT SPRINGS a car show open to all classifications of cars and trucks; Aug. 1-2 $20 registration fee. Info at: ridesintherockies.com. Two-day event happens 9:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. and in- HOMESTEADER DAYS RIVER CITY ROOTS FESTIVAL cludes 150 vendors in Bigfork from all over the coun- June 11-14 Aug. 28-29 try. Wood work, pottery, paintings, jewelry and all sorts Event includes a 3 day rodeo, a kiddie parade and Missoula’s signature celebration of the city, Roots Fest of other types of art work are on display. The festival games; Music on Main Street on Saturday, street dance attracts more than 10,000 individuals to the heart of draws thousands of people each day to buy artwork, on Saturday night, the Grand Parade on Sunday, soft- the community for a variety of fun activities and was listen to music, eat great food or just people-watch. ball and horseshoe tournaments, breakfast and bar- named the 2009 Montana Tourism Event of the Year. Info at: bigfork.org. beques; plus, a car show, a quilt show. Info at: townof- This 15th annual event features quality live perfor- hotspringsmt.wordpress.com/ 14TH ANNUAL BIG SKY ANTIQUE AND CLASSIC mances on a big stage on West Main Street, a juried BOAT SHOW art show, entertainment for children and families and Aug. 1-2 MISSOULA a 4-mile run. This admission-free festival takes place An entire weekend of classic boats is seen on Bigfork annually the last weekend in August. Info at: Missou- Bay, The Marina Cay Resort and The Classic Company MAGGOTFEST ladowntown.com. Boatworks in Somers. Participants may also attend a May 16-17 banquet, a parade down the east shore of Flathead The emphasis at Maggotfest is on both the competi- OVANDO Lake and then lunch at Woods Bay. Info at: bigfork.org. tion of the sport and its social aspects. Teams are encouraged to not only play great rugby, but are highly FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION RUMBLE IN THE BAY CAR SHOW encouraged to win the party, wear costumes, play with Sept. 5-6 Hosting “The Biggest Taste of Old Time Americana, sportsmanship and have fun. Playing at Fort Missoula by the Smallest Old Town,” Ovando stands proudly Downtown Bigfork, 10 a.m.-3 pm. Held by the local Regional Park, men’s and women’s teams from across VFW post to benefit veterans. Info at: Bigforkrumble.com. decorated in red, white and blue with flags flying -ev the country, and even across the world, will be in town erywhere. Festivities begin with the Parade, whose for a weekend of premier rugby, hosted by the Mis- theme every year is “Everybody participates! Nobody HAMILTON soula Maggots men’s rugby team. Info at: Maggots.org. watches.” It is followed by a BBQ of hamburgers and hot dogs sponsored by the Ovando Volunteer Fire De- OUT TO LUNCH HARDTIMES BLUEGRASS FESTIVAL partment and Helmville Quick Response Unit. Info at: June 3-Aug. 26 July 24-26 ovancomontana.net. A family-friendly festival with an “old timey moun- Out to Lunch is the longest-running performing arts tain feel” that features traditional bluegrass music via festival in the state of Montana. It attracts thousands 11 great bands who hail from all over the nation. New of people to Caras Park every Wednesday June through POLSON location this year, 424 Forest Hill Road.Info at: Hard- August from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Out to Lunch features timesbluegrass.com. some of Missoula’s best food and performing artists MISSION MOUNTAIN NRA RODEO from throughout the region. Info at: Visit Missoulad- June 26-27 LAKE COMO TRIATHLON owntown.com. Youth events at 6:30 p.m.include Mutton Bustin’ and July 25 Mini Bull Riding, then at 7:30 p.m. at the Mission Moun- A challenging XTerra-style race with .9-mile open DOWNTOWN TONIGHT tain NRA Rodeo rodeo events begin, including bare- water swim, 12.6-mile mountain bike and 7.7-mile trail June 4-Aug. 27 back, steer wrestling, saddle bronc, team roping, tie run at Lake Como in the heart of the Bitterroot Valley. Downtown ToNight is Missoula’s outdoor, after-work down roping, ladies and youth barrel racing, ladies and

6 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Treasures

From Page 3 youth breakaway roping and bull riding. Tickets STEVENSVILLE $10 adult, $5 children under 12. Live music after Friday nights performance. Free vendors fair, no CREAMERY PICNIC summer of 1915, but there could have been food items. Info at: polsonchamber.com .(406) July 31 – Aug. 1 some lookouts that operated earlier on the for- 261-2861 or (406) 883-1100. A traditional, family-oriented Stevensville cel- est.” ebration with a parade, Montana State Bar-B-Q In their heyday — starting in the 1930s to FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION contest, food vendors, crafters and booths; and, July 4 the of end WWII — Eustace believes there were incredible ice cream. Info at: Creamerypicnic.com. The Independence Day celebration kicks off with probably three times as many lookout towers a parade at noon and fireworks at dusk. Info at: on the Bitterroot Forest as there are now. polsonchamber.com or (406) 883-5969. ST. REGIS “There used to be tons of them,” he said. “There were so many in the West Fork that MIRACLE OF AMERICA MUSEUM’S ANNUAL ST. REGIS FLEA MARKET people were kept busy all summer supplying LIVE HISTORY DAYS May 23-25 July 18-19 Annual flea market occurs over Memorial Day them with pack strings.” The museum is open each day from 10 a.m. to Weekend in St. Regis Community Park, offer- Today, the most popular lookout tower 4 p.m. each day in Polson showing visitors every- ing breakfast, a bargain, the Unique or the Odd can been easily seen on a sunny day from the day living and wartime memorabilia. Info at: Mir- delivered with hometown hospitality. Info at: grounds of the Historic St. Mary’s Mission in acleofamericamuseum.org or (406) 883-6264. Stregismtflea.org. Stevensville perched atop Saint Mary Peak. It’s 6TH ANNUAL FLATHEAD LAKE FESTIVAL OF a 3.5-mile climb from the trailhead just west of ART TROUT CREEK town to the St. Mary’s Peak Fire Lookout. July 25-26 The tower has been manned for years by Held on the shores of Flathead Lake at Sa- TROUT CREEK HUCKLEBERRY FESTIVAL hearty volunteers with the Selway-Bitterroot cajawea Park in Polson from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Aug. 14-16 Frank Church Foundation. Info at: polsonchamber.com. More than 100 arts and crafts vendors display The foundation’s executive director, Sally and sell wares at Trout Creek Community Park. 49TH ANNUAL SANDPIPER ART FESTIVAL Events include entertainment on stage, a parade, Ferguson, said it’s not been hard to find people Aug. 8 a 5K run, and much more. Info at: Huckleberry- willing to spend a couple of weeks at what feels This annual event takes place on the Lake County festival.com. like the top of the world. Courthouse lawn 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Info at: polson- “Lookouts are so romantic and St. Mary’s in chamber.com or (406) 883-5956. WHITEFISH particular is in gorgeous spot,” Ferguson said. FLATHEAD LAKE BLUES FESTIVAL “Folks have volunteered for many years and Aug. 14-15 WHITEFISH ARTS FESTIVAL they’ve been loyal and committed. When there This 10th annual festival is held at the Regatta July 3-5 have been times that we have an opening, we Shoreline Amphitheater, Polson Fairgrounds. En- This 41st annual festival follows a long tradi- do have to be a little careful.” joy 40 acres of free camping and parkin on the tion of high quality arts and fine crafts. Artists “Everyone thinks manning a lookout will shores of the Flathead River wile listeb=ning to from across the country are represented with be an experience in solitude,” she said. “In re- their metal sculptures, paintings and photogra- 20 hours of the best music in the Northwest. Info ality, our volunteers are greeting people con- at: polsonchamber.com. phy, woodworking, pottery, jewelry, clothing, and home decorations. Info at: whitefishartsfestival.org. stantly. We get a couple of thousand people 22ND ANNUAL POLSON FLY-IN coming up there every season.” Aug. 15 UNDER THE BIG SKY FESTIVAL The volunteers open up their lookout and Join pilots for an exciting day of aviation ac- July 18-19 offer a variety of information to those who tivities, beginning at 8:00 a.m. Watch as visiting This long-awaited Americana event celebrates have made the trek. The volunteers are also aircraft arrive and land. View some fantastic air- the tradition of gathering friends and family together under open skis. Shows begin at noon, Sat. trained to spot smoke and call in anything they craft; from home-built, vintage, War Birds, float- might see. planes, to general aviation aircraft. Held at the Jul 18, and 11 a.m. Sunday. A list of celebrity art- Polson Airport; free admission. Info at: polson- ists take on our country’s rich musical traditions “It offers us the chance to spread the mes- chamber.com. at the 350-are Big Mountain Ranch, 1876 Voer- sage of the importance of wilderness to the man Rd, Whitefish. An expansive 180-degree view public,” Ferguson said. “People have a chance MISSION MOUNTAIN PEDAL TO THE PLATE shows performances across two stages in natu- to gain an understanding of the importance of Aug. 29 rally formed amphitheaters on the ranch. Info maintaining a vegetative mosaic and the his- For the 2020 ride, we have a new venue, a new at: Showclix.com. route and more farms. Plan your cycling needs tory of St. Mary’s in the context of wilderness. for more gravel and rural roads. Early-bird rate HUCKLEBERRY DAYS ARTS FESTIVAL So many don’t really understand what that all until June 1 is $55/person with coupon code “ear- Aug. 7-9 means.” lybird2020,” applied at checkout. Art festival with more than 100 artists and “The lookout at St. Mary’s transcends age Registrations after June 1st will be $60/each. food vendors, local live entertainment, a mobile and interests,” she said. “It’s an iconic struc- Fee includes ride, a commemorative item to climbing wall for kids and adults and a huckle- ture that represents so much. It’s not just about keep, a fork, and lots of delicious snacks to en- berry dessert bake-off contest. All events take the old days. It’s also about what people can do joy with said fork. Dinner of locally-sourced, or- place in/around Depot Park, Whitefish, unless to support their national forest now.” ganic food and craft brews, served along with an otherwise noted. Info at: whitefishchamber.org “It lets them touch it, experience it and see intimate concert. or call (406) 862-3501. it for themselves,” Ferguson said. SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 7 REDISCOVER MONTANA

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National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

Glacier Missouri Glacier Missouri Country Central River Country Central River Country Country Country Country Southwest Southwest Country Southeast Country Southeast Yellowstone Country Yellowstone Country Country Country YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY Historic Chico Hot Springs REDISCOVER MONTANA resort offers relaxation,RM exploration and more S PRING/SUMMER 2015 By MIKE KORDENBROCK weekly fee charged at the time. also plentiful at Chico, where [email protected] When it became a health spa in guests can choose from the his- 1912, the doctor employed there toric dining room, the Chico Sa- More information or more than 100 years, boasted the mineral hot spring loon, the Poolside Grille and the Chico Hot Springs Resort Chico Hot Springs, in one pools could cure rheumatism, tasting room. and Hotel form or another, has of- kidney disease, skin problems Reservations are recom- Address: 163 Chico Road, fered peace in the heart of and internal ailments. mended for the dining room, Pray, Montana, 59065 Montana. Over the decades it has served which also serves bu et break- Phone: 406-333-4933 FA resort in the small town of as a boarding house for immi- fast and Sunday brunch, in ad- Pray located in the scenic Para- grants seeking gold, a hospital, dition to dinner. The menu has Website: dise Valley, Chico Hot Springs a church camp, guest ranch, bed a variety of options including www.chicohotsprings.com has lodging and a wide variety and breakfast, hotel, roadhouse, trout, steak, chicken breast, Kids and adults of all ages enjoy of activities along with access to fi ne dining restaurant and ro- prime rib, porkLee chops, Newspapers fi let mi- of Montanathe pool at Chico Hot Springs. its namesake natural hot springs mantic inn before settling into gnon, duck and Beef Wellington. rediscovermt.com HANNAH POTES, pool. its current form. For a more casual din- Gazette Sta When Percie Knowles and As if in honor of its long and ing experience, or for her husband William Knowles varied past, Chico o ers and fa- lunch food, The Pool- opened a boarding house at the cilitates a wide variety of activi- side Grille has menu hot springs in 1900, they cele- ties in the present for visitors. items including brated with a brass band to her- Those activities include melt sandwiches, ald their new business which horseback riding, fl y fi shing, burgers, pizza, promised a clean bed, hot bath river rafting, disc golf, hiking, wraps, soup, and strawberries with meals. mountain biking and live music. salad and milk- Much has changed since The property also has vegetable shakes. The then, including and fl ower gardens which have restaurant also the $6 been known to attract honey has kid friend- bees and Monarch butterfl ies. ly food options. Food and drink options are The Poolside Grille also cooks food for the adja- cent Chico Saloon. The Chico Sa-

The Lower Lodge at Chico Hot Springs. HANNAH POTES, Gazette Sta

8 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 loon has live music every Friday and with a view of the Absaroka Moun- Saturday night. The bar is next to tains. Admission is included in the hot spring pool and has a walk- lodging fees. Day guests must pay up window for swimmers to order a fee. The pool is open from 7 a.m. drinks. In addition to bar seating, to 11 p.m. daily. Day guests can pay the saloon has video poker, keno a fee at the front desk. After 11 a.m. machines, billiards, foosball, shuf- that fee can be paid at the saloon or fleboard and TVs. poolside grille. Adults pay $8.50, se- Chico’s tasting room requires niors age 65 and up along with kids reservations and is available to par- age three to six pay $3.50. Children ties of between two and six people. two and under have free admission. In the private wine cellar, the tast- Lodging is available in a variety ing room offers a chef’s tasting menu of forms, including rooms, suites, of between seven and 12 courses, glamping, luxury cabins and a hill- which can be joined with select or side chalet. The Main Lodge of the premium wine pairings. resort is on the National Register of The hot spring pool is open air Historic Places.

Flaming Orange Served since the late 1970s, this dramatic dessert is an original recipe from Chef Larry Edwards. It is a creative combination of whimsy and wild, the childhood experience of a Creamsicle partnered with fascination for fire. This recipe can be found in “A Montana Table: Recipes from Chico Hot Springs Resort.” HANNAH POTES, Gazette Staff The Warren Wing at Chico Hot Springs. Ingredients: 1/2 c. sour cream 8 large oranges 1 oz. frozen orange juice 10 oz. bittersweet chocolate concentrate, thawed Filling: Merengue topping: 4 c. high-quality ice-cream 4 egg whites, room (e.g., Wilcoxsons) temperature 1/2 oz. Grand Marnier 1/4 t. cream of tartar 1/2 oz. Triple Sec 3/4 c. sugar 1/2 oz. vodka 1/4 t. almond extract Directions: Cut the tops and bottoms from the oranges, making the top cut a little wider than the bottom. Hollow out each orange by running a grapefruit spoon halfway between the skin and the pulp on the top. Repeat this step on the bottom of each orange, then carefully push out the pulp. The inside of the orange should be clean of any pulp.Melt bittersweet chocolate in a double boiler. Replace a pulp- free slice of orange end on the bottom of orange shell, creating a plug for the hollow rind. Line the inside of the orange with the melted chocolate using a soup spoon to smear it until all the white is covered. Repeat with remaining 7 oranges. Place oranges in the HANNAH POTES, Gazette Staff freezer at least until chocolate has hardened. Swimmers can enjoy drinks from the pool bar at Chico Hot Springs.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 9 Captives rescued would be put down,” Robson from closing said. RED LODGE The Red Lodge sanctu- California shelter ary had the space available to house Ginny and Dakota. Then By BRETT FRENCH the work began to have them [email protected] SANCTUARY cleared for transfer, which includes permits from state etting a gray wolf to agencies. Dakota, the big male, relax isn’t easy. will care for 2 wolves will also be neutered. For an hour and a half, Katherine Iconic species Blackford recently sat The two wolves are being ern California where they had Gon the cold concrete fl oor at the held in quarantine at the fa- lived most of their lives at the Having the wolves on dis- Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctu- cility until they are deemed Wildlife Waystation. That play to educate the public is ary talking to Ginny and Dako- parasite free and suitable for 43-year-old facility is shut- a big draw for the Red Lodge ta, two wolves recently trans- release onto the grounds which ting down after damage caused sanctuary. ferred to the Red Lodge facility. also is home to bears, coyotes, by a wildland fi re in 2017 and “If you look at the icon- “That fi rst week they a mountain lion and red fox, to fl oods in 2019. The Wildlife ic species of the Yellowstone wouldn’t lay down or eat while name a few of the 35 wild ani- Waystation was home to about ecosystem and the Ameri- we were around,” Blackford mals housed there. The wolves 400 animals including chim- can West, the fi rst species said. will occupy an expanded area panzees that had been used in that come to mind are bison The female wolf, nicknamed that now covers 24,000 square laboratory experiments, lions and wolves,” Robson said. for writer Virginia Woolf, was feet compared to the 4,500 from New Zealand and tigers “We have Yellowstone in our slower to “chill out,” Blackford that was available to the sanc- from Ireland, according to its name because of the Greater added. tuary’s previous wolf, Apache, website. Yellowstone Ecosystem, not “It’s really important for who died in 2017. “Unfortunately for the because we are a liated with the animals’ well-being to be wolves, if they couldn’t fi nd comfortable with the animal Cali wolves them a home Please see Wolves, Page 12 trainer,” said Gary Robson, t h e y executive director of the sanc- Ginny and Dakota were tuary. That makes it easier and driven to Red Lodge earlier this less traumatic for the trainer month from South- and the animal to do tasks like blood draws, he noted.

10 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 HELP STOP THE SPREAD OF INVASIVE SPECIES CLEAN: Remove all plants and mud from boat, trailer and ﬁshing gear. DRAIN: Pull your drain plug. Before you leave the area eliminate all water from your boat and gear. DRY: Allow time for your boat and gear to dry completely before launching somewhere else. All watercraft must stop at inspection stations Your watercraft must be inspected if: encounter an open inspection station. u are coming into Montana from out-of state. ou are traveling west over the Continental Divide. Basin and your watercraft last launched on waters

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SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 11 If you go Some time in December visitors will be able to see gray wolves Ginny and Dakota three days a week — Friday, Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The sanctuary has reduced hours in the winter. The cost is $10 for adults, $7 for seniors and military personnel and $4 for children ages 4 to 12. For more information log on to www.yellow- stonewildlifesanctuary.org. The 30-year-old sanctuary is a nonprofit business sustained on donations, memberships and entry fees.

Wolves From page 10

(Yellowstone National Park).” Wild wolves are known to roam the Red Lodge area, trot- ting along the Beartooth Front CASEY PAGE, Billings Gazette photos in search of prey. Two of the first Ginny, left, and Dakota, two wolves new to the Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary in Red Lodge, walk around in their wolves released in Yellowstone quarantine area on Tuesday. National Park in 1995 migrated to the region. They denned, and with a desire to be “the center of the female gave birth to cubs be- attention.” If Ginny claims too fore the male wolf was illegally much of that spotlight, Dakota shot by a local man. At the time will remind his sister of her sub- the wolves were still under fed- ordinate role, she added. eral protection. “He’s definitely the boss,” Interestingly, Dakota rode to Blackford said. “She won’t do Montana in a crate built by the anything until he checks it out U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and gives the OK.” to transfer those first wolves to To keep the wolves enter- Yellowstone from Canada. The tained, Blackford and the other crate had been stored at the Yel- animal keepers will do things lowstone Wildlife Sanctuary like add boxes and boards to since it was used to haul that their cage, sprinkle cinnamon early female wolf from the area on their hay bedding and spray after her mate was shot, Robson elk estrus or red fox urine on said. boxes. “She loves boxes,” Blackford Captive said. CASEY PAGE, Billings Gazette “They need things to do. Gary Robson, the executive director of the Yellowstone Wildlife Sanctuary in Ginny and Dakota were born They’re not like a regular couch Red Lodge, talks about the expanded wolf enclosure. on a fur farm in Minnesota. With potato dog. We want to keep their mother they were moved to them intrigued and amused.” intrigued for a while. of the time,” Blackford said. the California facility while still Early in December the wolves After that, it won’t be unusu- “When we turn off the lights pups. Consequently, they have will likely roam the hillside al to hear their mournful howls they will howl, talking to the lived their entire lives in captiv- next to the Yellowstone Wild- echoing across the mountain coyotes. When the wind was ity. Blackford described the big life Sanctuary discovering new town. blowing last week they were male as “pretty outgoing” and smells and sights to keep them “They are very vocal most howling the whole time.”

12 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 13 Lamb sliders with plum chutney, goat cheese and caramelized onions at PREROGATIvE Kitchen in Red Lodge. CASEY PAGE photos, Billings Gazette

On the RISE PREROGATIvE Kitchen in Red Lodge taking over restaurant at Tippet Rise

By ANNA PAIGE freshest ingredients. We’re proud [email protected] to keep it going and staying to our standards.” wo years into operating The couple began with a food PREROGATIvE Kitchen, truck in a parking lot o Main Gena Gale Burgho and Street in Red Lodge and are now her husband Chris Lock- expanding into a second location Thart have found a groove in Red at Tippet Rise Art Center, located Lodge. outside of Fishtail. They’ll serve Even with a population that lunch and dinner to patrons of the dips in the o season, the commu- performance arts venue and out- nity has supported its restaurants door sculpture park, which opens in Carbon County, which Burgho to the public June 26. and Lockhart have been part of for “I still think that people local- the past decade. ly don’t realize how world famous “The ﬁ rst year is always a night- Tippet Rise has become,” said mare, but this year we had to bor- Lockhart, who grew up in England. row much less,” Burgho said. “It’s “I’ve seen articles in the U.K. about Chris Lockhart of PREROGATIvE hard in the middle of nowhere on a Kitchen in Red Lodge talks with customers on Monday, February 17, 2020. The dead-end road to be able to get the Please see Rise, Page 16 restaurant operates in the former City Bakery location on South Broadway.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 15 Rise ty,” Burgho added. From page 14 The pace of Café Regis got Lockhart up to speed in the kitch- it. For us, we’re super excited to en, where 300 tickets will go out be on board. It’s just going to get on a Sunday. He never attended more and more well-known. It’s culinary school. Instead, his reci- amazing what they are doing.” pes and food choices are informed Both Burgho and Lockhart by his extensive travel. began in the restaurant industry “I’ve been lucky enough to visit at age 18, though in very di erent most regions of the world and tried parts of the world. After attend- foods all around the world,” Lock- ing college in Powell, Wyoming, hart said. Growing up in England Burgho headed to Los Angeles also informed his palate. “It’s so to pursue acting, and Lockhart multicultural. I grew up with cur- was working in various restau- ry houses, Chinese restaurants, CASEY PAGE, Billings Gazette rants around England. He decid- Italian. … I just love di erent Gena Gale Burgho of PREROGATIvE Kitchen in Red Lodge talks about the ed to take a year o to travel, and foods from around the world.” restaurant, which opened in 2018. Burgho was also traveling with Lockhart shares culinary du- Cirque du Soleil. They met in ties with Danny Mowatt, who lamb from Big Timber. Local pro- There are hiking and biking trails Cambodia, and their relationship grew up in Absarokee and at- duce is a bit trickier based on loca- throughout the property, as well as developed across the distance. tended culinary school at Oregon tion, but in the summertime they tours via van. Tickets to concerts Lockhart then moved to the U.S., Coast Culinary Institute. He’s frequent farmer’s markets in Lau- are available through a lottery, and and they relocated to Montana a been working with the couple rel and Billings and try to bring in registration for a chance at tickets decade ago. since they were managing Mon- fresh, seasonal ingredients. is open at tippetrise.org. “When I was 10 years old, I tana Jack’s in Nye, and went into “We only use tomatoes when Since opening, Tippet Rise said I was going to marry a chef,” business with them to open PRE- they are in season,” Mowatt said. sta and guest artists have been Burgho said. “When I married ROGATIvE Kitchen in 2018. As well, food distributors like Sy- connected to Burgho and Lock- Chris, he was not a chef, so it was Mowatt, whose previous kitch- sco Foods and QFD have started hart through their restaurants. disappointing,” she laughed. en jobs didn’t include a lot of inter- distributing more local products, They operated Montana Jack’s Lockhart took the hint, and when action with customers, enjoys the Burgho said. near Nye on the Stillwater, as well they moved to Red Lodge he start- open concept of PREROGATIvE. The menu rotates based on as Ox Pasture in Red Lodge. ed working in the kitchen at Café Customers order at a counter, and available ingredients, but one item “It’s just been amazing meeting Regis. wait sta bring food to their ta- that is a staple is Lockhart’s sticky the artists that come out here. And “I just like to eat,” Lockhart bles. The kitchen has a window to ee pudding, a recipe from his they really seem to enjoy being in said. “Plus, I never really found open to the dining area allowing childhood in England. “I’ve had small town Montana,” Lockhart anything else I was good interaction. “It’s nice to get to talk my life threatened if I ever take it said. at, so I just started to people,” he said. o the menu,” he said. Burgho is looking forward to cooking.” Brussels The building was once a The menu won’t be the same the scenery and the artists who “It was also sprouts with bakery, and now seats about at Tippet Rise, but the local focus frequent Tippet Rise. “Being back partially be- a bu alo sauce, 40 people across about remains. The arts center sits atop a out on that land, it’s so beautiful cause he didn’t micro greens and 2,000 square feet, includ- working ranch, so the kitchen sta out there. It’s hard to ﬁ nd creative want to eat na- Gorgonzola cheese ing the back space they plan will incorporate beef sourced from energy in a small town, especially chos the rest of at PREROGATIvE to turn into a private rental Tippet Rise. something that is so intense as it his life, which is Kitchen in Red room. They will o er an a la carte is out there. Just being able to be my special- Lodge. They left the old bread menu where guests to Tippet Rise around that and being around art- proofer in the space (it was can pick a protein and di erent ists is going to be awesome.” cheaper that way) and paid sides. Lunch will be grab-and-go Bringing in such a cultural in- homage to the 100-year- style, including snacks and char- fusion has been refreshing and old bakery that operated cuterie plates, as well as soups helps drive business in a remote until 2016 by hanging and sandwiches. Dinners will be part of the world, but locals are the the old baking tins on served quickly, as well. The goal is backbone of year-round restau- the wall and the City to have guests in and out in under rant business in the area. Bakery sign from the 40 minutes, Lockhart said, to ac- “It’s deﬁ nitely a challenge,” ceiling. commodate those attending con- Burgho said. “For a town of only Food is focused on certs. 2,000 permanent residents, I local ingredients, from The restaurant will serve think that everyone gets out and steaks sourced outside of Tippet Rise’s guests, who must supports all the local businesses, Molt and beef from Belgrade to preregister to visit the facility. not just us.”

16 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

BIG SKY PEAK TO SKY Aug. 7—8 Now in its second year and curated by Mike McCready from the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame inducted band Pearl Jam, Peak to Sky features two days of world-class rock under the backdrop of 11,166-foot Lone Mountain in Big Sky, Mont. The full lineup includes headliner Sheryl Crow on Friday, Aug. 7, and Wilco, Sleater-Kinney co-headline on Saturday, Aug. 8. Mike McCready & Friends, Fred Ar- misen, Jamie McLean Band, Kolars, Caspar Babypants, and a special Mike McCready art exhibit. This event will have sustainability and zero-waste community-building. Info at: peaktosky.com. BOZEMAN ART WALKS June 12, July 10, Aug. 4, Sept. 11 From 6-8 p.m. on the second Friday of each month June through September, and a special “Winter” Art Walk in December, art galleries and businesses display artwork located along Main Street and at the Emerson Center for Arts and Culture. The galleries feature artists’ openings LARRY MAYER, Gazette Staff and receptions, and often provide hors d’oeuvres and Livingston Rodeo Parade complimentary refreshments. Music may play as you concerts, motorsports, rodeo, entertainment throughout between Grand and Broadway during the Chalk on the stroll along Main Street in Downtown Bozeman. Info at: the grounds, and delicious fair food. Held at Gallatin County Walk, 8 a.m., Tues., Aug. 4. The Bite of Bozeman, is at Downtownbozeman.org. Fairgrounds. Info at: www.406statefair.com. 6 p.m., Wed., 5, bringing food and drink offerings of over 40 area restaurants and food vendors. There are bands BOGERT FARMER’S MARKET WARRIOR TASTE FEST June 16-Sept. 8 and entertainment on every corner, food choices galore, July 31 and the fun of dining among friends in the middle of Main On Tuesdays from 5 to 8 p.m. from June through late Held 6-8m p.m. in the Haynes Pavilion at the Gallatin September, area vendors bring vegetables, arts, crafts, Street; Adult Run, Children’s Run and Parade, Aug. 4. Info County Fair Grounds, the Warrior Taste Fest is a tasting of at: Sweetpeafestival.org or Downtownbozeman.org. music, food and much more to this fun-filled family en- some of the best restaurants, breweries, distilleries and vironment. The Market is run by The Friends of Bogert wineries in the area. This event benefits Warriors and Quiet Park, and proceeds go to rejuvenate the park, found on S. LIVINGSTON Waters Foundation. Doors open at 6 p.m. and the live Church Ave. in Bozeman. Info at: Bogertfarmersmarket.org. auction starts at 8 p.m. Info at: Downtownbozeman.org. SUMMERFEST BOZEMAN STAMPEDE RODEO July 1 CRUISIN’ ON MAIN ANNUAL CAR SHOW Aug. 6-8 This year’s Summerfest is a day-long event with music Aug. 16 The Bozeman Stampede is a nonprofit rodeo serving as and family-friendly festivities along the Yellowstone River. At 9 a.m., come see the biggest car show in the region. a fun community event that benefits Bozeman businesses Local vendors and Montana talent add to the show that is Registration begins at 8 a.m. at the intersection of Black and community – both culturally and economically – while held each year by the Livingston Recreation Department. and Main Streets. Show runs to 3 p.m. All classes of cars supporting local agricultural groups. The rodeo is sanc- Info at: Livingstonmontana.org. are welcome to enter. All proceeds support Cancer Sup- tioned under the PRCA and happens 7-10 p.m. each night port Community, and prizes will be awarded in more than LIVINGSTON ROUNDUP RODEO at the Gallatin County Fairgrounds, 901 N Black Ave. Info 14 car categories including a “People’s Choice” and Best July 2-4 at: Bozemanstampede.com. of Show. Info at: Downtownbozeman.org. Livingston’s rodeo draws 10,000 spectators yearly to see BZN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL top rodeo cowboys and cowgirls from across North Amer- MUSIC ON MAIN June 11-14 ica competing in multiple events. These are the best sad- Thursdays July 2-Aug. 20 Join this four-day event celebrating independent film- dle-bronc riders, team ropers, barrel racers, and bull riders. Every Thursday evening for eight weeks from early July making, creative expression, and emerging and estab- Fun starts 3 p.m. Monday at the Livingston Chamber of lished voices. Over 70 films will screen at various the- through August, enjoy live music, food and fun in Down- Commerce Parade held downtown. Monday-Wednesday aters throughout downtown Bozeman, complemented town Bozeman on Main Street from Rouse to Black Ave- rodeos start at 8 p.m. and fireworks follow at the Park by a slate of Q & A sessions, panel discussions, communi- nues. Bring the kids early for kid’s activities. Then, enjoy County Fairgrounds. Kiddie Rodeo is Tuesday, using stick ty-wide events and parties. Opening Film and Reception is live music from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Grab a bite to eat from animals. Info at: Livingstonroundup.com. Thursday; Family Free Night is Saturday, and Awards Cer- numerous food vendors that will be on site or step into a FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS emony and Filmmakers Brunch is Sunday. Info at: Boze- few of the downtown stores that stay open late. Info at: July 2–4 manfilmcelebration.com. Downtownbozeman.org. The Livingston Depot Center’s Festival of the Arts will THE BIG SKY COUNTRY STATE FAIR SWEET PEA FESTIVAL be held in the Depot Rotary Park, on West Park Street Aug. 4-9 (next to the Depot Center) in downtown Livingston Thurs- (GALLATIN COUNTY) 2020 Celebrate the arts and community through a vine of day through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., and Wednesday, July 15-19 events for the whole family in Downtown Bozeman. Even This is your chance to experience a traditional west- the days prior to the Festival weekend, Aug. 7-9, people Please see Calendar, Page 18 ern fair, celebrating the Montana lifestyle with top-notch begin to create their artistic statements on Main Street

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 17 everyone. Gates for the ticketed part of the event open at Mayors Landing in Livingston. On 8 a.m. July 12, launch at 4 p.m. in Lions Park. A no-host bar and hors d’oeuvres from Mayors Landing; Lunch in Springdale provided by Calendar will be available while viewing the art created that day. the Crazy Mountain Shriners, for a fee. Float down to Ot- From page 17 Info at: Carboncountydepotgallery.org. ter Creek just east of Big Timber. Free camping at Otter BEARTOOTH MOTORCYCLE RALLY Creek. Food trucks and bands in the campground. At 8 a.m. doors close at 5 p.m. This three-day juried show features July 16-19 July 13, launch from Otter Creek, float to Reed Point. Free works from all media of arts and crafts, created by ap- Plan on the 26th Annual Beartooth Motorcycle Rally proximately 100 skilled artists and craftspeople. Non- camping at Indian Fort. Street dance and food in Reed being better than ever! As always this weekend promises profit groups also offer specialty foods, and the Depot Point. If you can handle another day, 8 a.m. launch for lots of rides, food and fun each day, and in the evening continues to host the acclaimed pie booth. Info at: Liv- float to Columbus. Info at: Stillwatercountychamber.com. you can dance under the stars. Info at: Beartoothrally.com. ingstondepot.org. GREAT MONTANA SHEEP DRIVE CRUISEN RED LODGE CAR AND BIKE SHOW “MATILDA” AT SHANE LALANI CENTER July 24-26 Sept. 6 June 26-July 19 Red Lodge’s premiere summer car show will have you Hundreds of sheep take to Reed Point’s main street at Shane Lalani Center for the Arts presents the smart, in awe at your favorite classic cars and motorcycles. A 10 a.m. during this Labor Day weekend staple. Enjoy the sassy musical MATILDA from June 26 through July 19, 2020. 4-7 p.m. Friday BBQ is at Pride Park, with a parade down street fair, parade and street dance, as well as the Clas- Inspired by the twisted genius of Roald Dahl, MATILDA is Main Street at 6 p.m. This 10th annual Saturday car show sic Car Show and Round Bale Roll. Info at: Stillwatercoun- a captivating masterpiece. Info at: Theshanecenter.org. is all day at Pride Park. The nostalgic drag races are Sun- tychamber.com. PARK COUNTY FAIR day on the airport runway. Info at: Cruisenredlodge.com. July 22-26 THREE FORKS LABOR DAY ARTS FAIR This county-wide and 4-H fair has a carnival, games, Sept. 7 rides, stock auction, commercial exhibitions, family enter- ROCKIN’ THE RIVERS MUSIC FESTIVAL Enjoy this 41st annual art and fine crafts from 90-plus tainment, farmers market and pig wrestling contest. There Aug. 13-15 artists for one annual Labor Day Arts Fair, 9 a.m.–4 p.m., are 20 water and electrical hookups for RVs and campers The biggest country music festival in Montana has a bit Monday, Sept. 3, in Lions Park, Red Lodge. Stroll the park at the Park County Fairground, 46 View Vista Dr., Living- and stop in the artists’ booths to shop for original creations. of rock ‘n roll this year during three days of music featur- ston. Info at: Livingston-chamber.com. Food vendors surround the gazebo, and local groups en- ing more than a dozen bands. This summer go-to event RED LODGE tertain all day at the gazebo, rain or shine. Free Admis- has camping available, and the crowds enjoy ice-cold beer, sion. Info at: Carboncountydepotgallery.org. ongoing horseshoes and dancing, all at The Bridge near RED LODGE MUSIC FESTIVAL Three Forks. Headliners include Skillet, .38 Special, Lit, June 6-14 REED POINT Candlebox, Iron Maidens, Steven Adler of Guns ’N Roses, The oldest and most successful music festival in Mon- 2020 YELLOWSTONE BOAT FLOAT Jefferson Starship, Georgia Satellites, Jared Stewart, Sav- tana attracts more than 200 students annually to the Red July 10-12 ing Abel, Hell’s Belles, LA Guns, Defenders of the Faith, Lodge Civic Center. With faculty from universities, colleges The 57th annual Boat Float features Free camping July 11 and symphony orchestras from across the nation, this is a Dead Fervor and Blue Tattoo. Info at: Rockintherivers.com. full-blown, nine-day music festival with five evening faculty concerts, two evening student recitals, and afternoon band and orchestra performances. Student concerts are free. Info at: Redlodge.com or Rlmf.org. RED LODGE SONGWRITER FESTIVAL June 18-20 Celebrate summer listening to some of the country’s best songwriters at various locations throughout Down- town Red Lodge restaurants, bars, cafes and theaters. Shows will start late in the afternoon and play into the late night. A portion of the proceeds support Friends of the Beartooths, dedicated to the improvement and pro- motion of the Beartooth Highway and its neighboring communities. Info at: Redlodgesongwriterfest.org. RED LODGE HOME OF CHAMPIONS RODEO AND PARADE July 2-4 Home of Champions Rodeo features some of professional rodeo’s top cowboys and cowgirls. Take in the ropin’ and ridin’, singin’ and swingin’ with a downtown parade each day at noon and a rodeo at 6 p.m. July 2-3 and at 3 p.m. July 4. Fireworks can be seen from the whole town at 10 p.m. Info at: Redlodgerodeo.com. ART IN THE BEARTOOTHS July 11 The 47th Annual Art in the Beartooths is 9 a.m. to 9 p.m., Saturday, July 11 at the Carbon County Depot Gal- lery. This annual fundraiser begins with 30 artists painting live on the deck of the Depot Gallery and in Lions Park. As LARRY MAYER, Gazette Staff the artists paint until 2 p.m., viewing is free and open to The Great Montana Sheep Drive in Reed Point

18 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA

N EW S

National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

REDISCOVER MONTANA RM S PRING/SUMMER 2015

SOUTHWEST COUNTRY

Looking west from Lee Newspapers of Montana Lemhi Pass. rediscovermt.com Courtesy photo Lewis & Clark IN SOUTHWEST MONTANA By PAT HANSEN Canyon Ferry Lake and recreation her fi ve years earlier. A plaque in results. On August 1, after a long area. the city park commemorates her day of hard work, the tired and After completing an arduous At the junction of US 287 and contribution to the expedition’s hungry men pitched camp. Hunt- 18-mile portage around the Great I-90, exit onto I-90 and trav- success. ers killed deer and antelope, and Falls of the Missouri, the Corps of el three miles east to the Three The captains chose to follow the party celebrated Clark’s 35th Discovery once again took to the Forks exit. the western-most river, named birthday. Clark returned through river. On July 19, 1805, Lewis and After traveling 2,500 miles the Je erson for “the author of our here in 1806. Clark were paddling upstream be- from its mouth, Lewis and Clark enterprise,” in search of a route to In Whitehall you can view 12 tween towering rocks that seemed found the headwaters of the Mis- the Pacifi c. From Three Forks fol- murals depicting the Lewis and “ready to tumble,” as Lewis souri River here at the confl uence low US 287/MT2 westward and Clark Expedition painted by mu- wrote, “I shall call them Gates of of three rivers they named after stay on MT 2. A major attraction ralist Kit Mather on buildings the Mountains.” Today, you can Secretary of the Treasury Albert along the way is Lewis and Clark throughout the business district. take a 105-minute boat cruise to Gallatin, Secretary of State James Caverns State Park. Despite its Turn south along Routes 55 and see these 1,200-foot limestone Madison, and President Thomas name, the explorers were unaware 41 following the Je erson River cli s, plus ancient Native Ameri- Je erson. At Headwaters State of these beautiful limestone cav- through productive cattle coun- can pictographs, and wildlife like Park climb past the Pioneer erns that have some of the most try. Along the way Beaverhead the explorers may have seen. Graves to the top of the hill above beautiful underground landscape Rock, a massive sandstone out- In Helena, Montana’s capital the interpretive exhibits for a view in the nation. crop resembling a swimming bea- city, plan to visit the Montana of Fort Rock and the surrounding The Je erson Valley was a ma- ver rises from the landscape about Historical Society Museum and mountain ranges. jor hunting ground and winter- 14 miles north of Dillon. the State Capitol Building where Lewis and Clark explored the ing area for several Indian tribes. It has long been an important Charlie Russell’s largest mural – a forks July 25-30, looking for the Traveling up the Je erson River landmark. Native American hunt- scene of Lewis and Clark meeting one that could take them through was a strenuous task for the Corps ing parties traveling the Je erson Salish Indians at Ross’ Hole – is the Continental Divide. Sa- of Discovery. The boats were and Beaverhead rivers passed it displayed. cagawea showed the explorers pulled up the canyon by means of on their way to bu alo country Traveling south from Helena where her people’s camp had been a long rawhide towline that broke on US 12 and 287 you will pass by when Hidatsa braves captured in the rapids with near calamitous Please see Lewis & Clark, Page 20

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 19 Lewis & Clark en track, and even a white man couldn’t miss the way. The men From page 19 had managed to cross communica- tion and cultural barriers to become in the east. When the expedition genuine friends and it was with re- paddled upriver, Sacagawea recog- gret that the Nez Perce and Lewis’ nized the rock. Her Shoshone tribe’s party went their separate ways. summer camp was near here, and Five miles east of Missoula beyond lay their route to the Bitter- exit I-90 at Bonner onto MT 200 root Mountains. The headwaters of to where Lewis, with nine men, the Jefferson River begin where the 17 horses, and his Newfoundland Beaverhead River and Blacktail Deer dog, Seaman, came to the Black- Creek converge at Dillon. foot River, called “Cokalahjshk- One mile northwest of Dillonon jt” by the Nez Perce or “The River Hwy 91, across the railroad tracks Courtesy photo of the Road to the Buffalo.” (This and to the right, is Clark’s Lookout One of the many Lewis & Clark murals in the town of Whitehall. blue-ribbon trout stream was fea- State Park. Clark climbed this area tured in the movie “A River Runs to get a look at the Beaverhead Val- home is not recommended. ed down the Jefferson River to the Through It”.) ley on August 13, 1805. Backtrack to Grant and take the Three Forks. From there he and his On July 5, 1806, they camped At the Beaverhead County graveled county road past the ghost party traveled east through the fer- at the confluence of the Blackfoot Museum, in the Old Depot,is a di- town of Bannack, Montana’s first tile Gallatin Valley, known by the River and a creek that Lewis named orama of the Lewis and Clark expe- territorial capital and the site of the Indians as “Valley of the Flowers.” Seaman’s Creek after his dog. To- dition at Beaverhead Rock, Native state’s first major gold strike in 1862, Sacagawea directed Clark to a gap day Seaman’s Creek is called Mon- American artifacts, ranching and to Rte 278; or backtrack to I-15 and in the mountains - Bozeman Pass - ture Creek, named after George mining memorabilia, a homestead- north to Rte 278, a paved shortcut to and the party arrived on the banks Monture, an early day U.S. Army er’s cabin; a boardwalk imprinted Montana’s western most Lewis and of the Yellowstone River just south Scout. Lewis described this part of with the area’s ranch brands and an Clark Trail sites, that also closely of Livingston. The Yellowstone is the valley as “prarie of the knobs” extensive bird collection. follows the route Clark took on his the longest free-flowing river in because of the mounds along the Twenty miles south of Dillon return journey eastward in 1806. the lower 48 states, and Clark’s trail, some of which are seen today. exit I-15 onto MT 324 to an overlook Chief Joseph and his band of Nez trip along it held pleasant surpris- The “knobs” that Lewis described on the west side of the Clark Can- Perce followed this route in 1877 on es and visual wonders—as it does were caused by glaciers dumping yon Dam reservoir for a view that their 1,500-mile odyssey, and were today. It is easy to miss the beauty rocks along their edges and down approximates Camp Fortunate attacked at the Big Hole National that surrounds you while driving icy holes as they melted and slowly (which is now under the water), but Battlefield in 1877. through the Lower Yellowstone re- retreated to the north some 10,000 there are interpretive kiosks and ca- gion of Montana past Billings and to 12,000 years ago. An interpretive noe. It was here that the expedition The Corps of Discovery Pompey’s Pillar where Clark en- sign and view of the knobs can be obtained from Sacagawea’s broth- graved his name on July 25, 1806. seen in the town square of Ovando. er, Chief Cameahwait, some of the Returns in 1806 Unlike the mountains of western There were no encounters with horses they needed to take them On their return trip from the Pa- Montana with their majestic vistas, Indians although there were fresh across the mountain ranges to the cific Coast, the Corps of Discovery, the beauty of the plains and prai- tracks along the trail and Lewis was west. guided by five Nez Perce Indians, ries is gentler and easier to overlook concerned: “They have a large pasel On August 12, 1805 Lewis and stopped for three days at Travelers with its subtle colors and rugged of horses,” he wrote. He expected to three men climbed to the top of Rest (near Lolo) after crossing Lolo badlands. meet with either the Hidatsas or an- Lemhi Pass and were disheartened Pass where snow on the trail was other hunting party at any time, so to discover “immence ranges of 10 feet deep. On July 3, 1806, Lewis Lewis’ Return Trip he and the men were “much on our high mountains still to the West.” wrote, “I took leave of my worthy guard both day and night.” Having acquired horses, the expe- friend and companion Capt. Clark Accompanied by the Nez Perce Lewis followed the Nez Perce dition began an arduous trek across and the party that accompanyed guides, Lewis and his men traveled route to the Great Falls of the Mis- the Continental Divide over Lost him.” northward, down the Bitterroot souri to pick up supplies cached Trail Pass into the beautiful Bitter- That morning, Clark, 20 men, River and camped near present day there the year before, and then ex- root Valley. Sacagawea and her baby, and 50 Missoula at sunset. plored the Marias River as a possible A Forest Service road leads to horses traveled south along the Bit- Lewis tried to persuade the Nez route into the fur country of Cana- Lemhi Pass. There is a small camp- terroot River, following the route Perce to stay with his party until da. ground and memorial to Sacagawea they had come the previous year. they crossed the Continental Di- Uncertain at their parting of ever near the summit. From June to Nov. Clark returned across Lost Trail vide, but they were afraid of meet- seeing each other again, Lewis and 1 (weather permitting) the road is Pass to Camp Fortunate to retrieve ing with a Hidatsa raiding party Clark reunited on August 12, 1806 open, but the Idaho side is steeper, the dugouts and supplies cached and told Lewis he didn’t need them just beyond the confluence of the so traveling with a trailer or motor- there earlier, and then proceed- because the road was a well-beat- Yellowstone and Missouri Rivers.

20 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Old Montana Prison By PAT HANSEN of Honor, and across the yard feel spine tin- automotive history from the 1886 Benz gling chills in the former Women’s Prison Motor Wagon replica and Schacht high The Montana Territorial Prison, built in that became Maximum Security, see where wheeler, through the 1960s and early 1970s 1891, resembles a medieval castle and is a prisoners worked, received medical care, muscle cars. Recall memories of Grandpa’s, fascinating piece of Montana history that and enjoyed entertainment at the W.A. Dad’s or your fi rst car or truck and it is a anchors the south end of Main Street in Clark Theatre until it was gutted by fi re in great opportunity to share stories with the Deer Lodge. 1975. younger generation. The towering gray sandstone walls of You can tour on your own using an in- A special exhibit highlights comple- the fi rst Territorial Prison in the western formative guide book, or take a guided tour. tion of the Yellowstone Trail in 1916 - the United States are 24 feet high and buried Either way, you will learn about prison life, fi rst transcontinental road from Plymouth four feet deep to prevent escape by tunnel- interesting characters like Turkey Pete, and Rock to Puget Sound (now part of Interstate ing. The walls and guard towers were built what guards experienced during the 1959 90 or closely parallels it.) To celebrate, on in 1893 by convict labor using locally quar- riot. The Administration building has been September 11, 1916 a relay from Plymouth ried stone. Under the direction of Warden given a facelift inside since a grant received Rock to Seattle took 121 hours, the fastest Frank Conley, convicts also built the brick last year allowed them to replace the leaky time ever clocked across the nation, coming cell house in 1912, the maximum security roof. The Secretary Pool and Medical room through Deer Lodge about 10 a.m. on Sep- building and the W.A. Clark Theatre. have been redone and new artifacts are on tember 15. In 1979, the last prisoners were moved display. Across Main Street, at Yesterday’s Play- to the new prison west of town. Today the Are you intrigued by the paranormal? things dolls, toys and trains of the past are nine-acre Old Prison museum complex is Throughout the summer and fall, the on display. A marvelous model railroad ex- managed by Powell County Museum & Arts brave-of-heart can join a nighttime Ghost hibit features a large diorama with two or Foundation. Tour, or even spend the night in prison! You three trains running through a setting that Passing through a large wooden door in may hear the eerie sound of footsteps, voic- replicates the local area. the Visitor Center, you enter the enclosed es, steel cell doors clanging in the cellblock Frontier Montana houses the largest col- courtyard where convicts once exercised, and spirit orbs have been seen. Tickets sell lection of guns and Western memorabilia, and two were hanged; visit the austere 1912 out months in advance, so call early for between Cody, Wyoming and Calgary, Al- cellblock where this year’s featured exhibit dates and reservations. berta, Canada that was used between 1829 will tell you about inmates who lived here Reentering the gift shop, proceed to the and 1900; and replica of a frontier Sheri ’s during the era of 1912-1920, Montana Law Montana Auto Museum, listed by USA To- o ce. See also a display of World War II Enforcement Memo- day as one of the top 10 car museums in the memorabilia with posters, personal letters, rial Hall country. You will fi nd a magnifi cent collec- uniforms and more; and F.J. Haynes’ pho- tion of nearly 170 cars and t r u c k s tographs of Yellowstone Park from 1883 to that showcase 1962. The Powell County Museum features local exhibits including the fantastic Huntoon woodcarving exhibit, handcrafted Civil War dioramas, mining equipment (kids will love the glowing rocks) and family

Please see Prison, Page 23

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 21 Grant-Kohrs Ranch NHS By Pat Hansen Johnny Grant, a frontiers- grazing on the lush grasses he man and trader, established took them back to the Oregon Step back in time to the his pioneer ranch and trad- Trail and traded for other cat- late 1800s and early 1900s at ing post here in the 1850s. He tle. Grant-Kohrs Ranch National recognized the potential for In 1866, Grant sold the Historic Site at Deer Lodge. raising cattle in the valley af- ranch to Conrad Kohrs, who The Ranch is not just a muse- ter seeing native grasses as became a prominent cattle- um, but a working ranch with high as his horse’s belly gently man of the late 1880s. Kohrs year-round chores, and is a swaying in the breeze; the sur- continued to build the cattle fun and interesting living his- rounding mountains provided herd until at one point he had tory experience for the entire protection during the winter cattle grazing on more than family. and water was abundant. ten million acres from the Ca- There is also a very good Grant built his cattle herd nadian border to Colorado. resource library. Visitors by traveling to Fort Hall on the It wasn’t until the dev- can easily spend two to four Oregon Trail where he traded astating winter of 1886-87 hours exploring, listening to with emigrants one good cow during which thousands of Courtesy photo the history and stories told by for two sore-footed ones. He head of cattle starved to death Pumpkin Sunday at Grant-Kohrs Ranch NHS knowledgeable guides, and trailed them to the Deer Lodge on the open range that ranch- is one of the most popular events of the year when hundreds of youngsters select a favorite kid-friendly hands-on activ- valley and after they had ers began fencing privately pumpkin from the pumpkin patch. ities. rested and regained strength owned land, irrigated, raised

22 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 and harvested hay. That win- here. ter changed the cattle indus- Guides o er frequent try and the open range era tours of the ranch home with came to an end. its beautiful Victorian dé- To gain an insight into the cor and personal items that lifestyle of the late 1800s, a o er a look into the lives of visitor’s experience at the both of the families who lived ranch begins with short here. In the lower yard, watch walk from the Visitors’ Cen- the blacksmith at work at ter along a path past teepees the forge and anvil, sample and Longhorn cattle lying in “cowboy co ee” at the chuck Courtesy photo the shade of towering cot- wagon, check out a splen- A portion of Cottonwood City, with Snowshoe School, the blacksmith shop, jail, tonwood trees to the original did display of horse-drawn gazebo and more. ranch house, bunkhouse row wagons, buggies, sleighs and where the cowboys lived, the equipment in the Thorough- barns, blacksmith shop and bred barn, see the farm ani- Prison Events other areas. The undisturbed mals and take a wagon ride. view of rolling hills and rug- There are a number of easy From page 21 May 9 -Oct. 31 – Ghost Tours ged mountain scenery to the walking trails to explore and from 9:30 p.m. to 3:30 a.m. (check west is as it was when Johnny perhaps see some of the many life displays. New this year is an ed- website for dates) Grant and Conrad Kohrs lived bird species that nest here. ucational trapping exhibit with in- May 15 – noon – Peace O cer Memorial Day in Prison Yard and formation boards, traps, skulls furs Law Enforcement Hall of Honor and photographs. June 13, July 18, Aug. 15 and Take a break, relax and enjoy an Sept. 5 – Virtual Convict Lockdown Information ice cream treat at the “Prison Cow” in the cell house; 6:30 p.m. to or have a picnic in the park area. 6:30 a.m. Location: North end of Main Street in Deer Lodge across Other points of interest in the from the fairgrounds. Leave Interstate 90 at either Deer Lodge July 4 – Annual BBQ and two-block complex are the replica exit. Fireworks RV friendly and wheelchair accessible. frontier town of Cottonwood City July 23-25 – Gold Wings Mo- Open Daily – except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New (once the name of Deer Lodge), Mil- torcycle Event Year’s Day. Admission is free waukee Railroad display, and the Aug. 1 – Shakespeare in the Hours are: 9:00 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Memorial Day to Labor PEN Art Gallery. Park Day; 9:00 a.m.-4:30 p.m. the rest of the year From June 1 to Sept. 30, the Oct. 23, 24, 30 and 31 – Haunt- Summer Events: April 11 - Junior Ranger Day, 10 a.m. Gallery will host a Western Mon- ed House to 2 p.m. tana Photography exhibit featuring June 15-19: Teacher STEAM (science, technology, engi- works by four area photographers. neering, art and math) Workshop, good for 35 renewal units or Not part of the museums, but 4 p.m. two graduate level credits worth visiting are the Prison Hobby One admission price allows vis- June 25-Aug. 13: Summer Explorers for kids ages 5-14 Shop, nationally recognized for its itors to enjoy the Prison and four – Thursdays 9:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.; activities include River beautiful hand-hitched horse hair other museums Exploration, Oregon Trail stories and activities, Victorian Era belts, bridles, hat bands, arts and For information: call 406-846- customs and games, and more. crafts made by prisoners and Terri- 3111, www.oldprisonmuseums. July 1-Aug. 5: Movie with a Ranger – 7 p.m. Wednesday torial Antiques in the former War- com, or email [email protected] nights at the Rialto Theatre den’s house. Guided tours of the prison are at July 7: Cattle Branding 11 a.m. and Family Activities 9 a.m. 11 a.m. or 2 p.m. daily during June – 5 p.m. through August. July 16, 29, Aug. 5: Haying with Horses (weather per- Getting There and Restrooms are in visitor Center/ mitting) 1-3 p.m. Information gift shop July 31-Aug. 1: Campﬁ re, Bedrolls and Starry Nights 7 p.m.-8 a.m. family overnight campout with activities and Located just o I-90; 38 miles There is quite a bit of walking, so breakfast West of Butte at Exit 187 or 81 miles wear comfortable shoes; a wheel- Oct. 18 – 1-4 p.m.: Pumpkin Sunday: pumpkin patch, East of Missoula at Exit 184 chair and scooter are available. The games, heritage activities, wagon rides The Old Prison is open 7 days a prison is over 125 years old and some Dec. 6 - 1-4 p.m.: Holiday Open House: tour Victorian week, except closed Thanksgiving of the walkways are a bit uneven. ranch house decorated for Christmas, wagon rides, caroling, Day and from mid Dec. to early Jan. To fully enjoy the entire complex crafts, refreshments and Santa Hours: Jan. 10 to May 31: 10 a.m. plan at least two to four hours; but if More details: www.nps.gov/grko/planyourvisit/hours.htm, to 4 p.m.; June 1 to Oct. 1: 10 a.m. time is limited your pass is good for or call 406-846-2070 ext. 250 to 6 p.m.; winter hours 10 a.m. to another visit within the year.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 23 Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park

By PAT HANSEN

iscovered in 1892, Lewis and Clark Caverns were dedicated as Mon-

tana’s first state park in 1941. The Courtesy photo famous explorers never saw the Lewis & Clark Caverns is a popular tour spot. caverns but the area does overlook about 50 miles of the Lewis ities, bedding and linens are not provided, so or 406-287-3032 Dand Clark Expedition Trail along the Jeffer- bring your own sleeping bag or bedding, tow- Campground and cabins are open all year. son River. The spectacular limestone caverns els, cook stove, etc. There are electric lights For reservations call toll free: 855-922-6768 are the finest in the Northwest. Naturally air and plug-ins - you may bring your own coffee Cave Tours are $15 for adults (15 and up), conditioned, the caves are lined with amazing maker. A table and four chairs are provided $10 for children between the ages of 5 and 14, intricate stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and outside each cabin is a picnic table and fire four and under are free – due to clearance, and helictites; they are electrically lighted and ring. Shower facilities are located nearby. backpacks or bulky items are not allowed. safe to visit. Bring a light jacket because inside Lewis and Clark Caverns are a great stop May 1 - June 14: 9:00 a.m. - 4:30p.m. the caves are much cooler in comparison to the during a trip between Yellowstone and Glacier June 15 – Aug. 19: 9:00a.m. - 6:30p.m. outside temperature. National Parks. August 20 – Sept. 30: 9:00a.m. - 4:30p.m. The tour guides are passionate about what The tour is great for all ages and kids will they do and you will learn a lot about the cav- If you go love it. erns. When you exit the caves after two hours The ¾-mile walk uphill to the cave can be in the dark, the light of day is quite harsh, so Lewis & Clark Caverns State Park is located a strenuous. The two-hour, two-mile walking bring your sunglasses. 19 miles west of Three Forks - or 17 miles east trip deep into the mountain requires a lot of A large population of western big-ear bats of Whitehall on Montana Highway 2. stooping and bending with many stairs up and at the cave put on a spectacular show in the Open all year, with cave tours from May 1 down, slippery areas, and a short slide that evening when they fly out to feed on insects. to Sept. 30 can be difficult for someone with knee or back There are no tours during the winter to allow Visitor center, interpretive displays about problems; but handrails throughout the cav- the bats to have a peaceful hibernation. geologic development and history, café and erns help steady you. If you are claustropho- Canoe, kayak or float on the Jefferson River; gift shop. bic you might want to think twice. If unable the fishing is good, too. Two picnic areas are Evening programs are held Tues. and Fri. to meet the physical challenges, call the park located along the 3.2-mile road to the Caverns. during the summer months. Special pro- for details about a modified Paradise Tour and The campground has 40 spaces, three grams this year are: June 6 – National Trails times. camping cabins, tipi, picnic sites, firewood, Day Event; June 7 – Birding Day; Sept. 4 - Star Paradise Tour - $10 for seniors; children flush and vault toilets, showers, group use Gazing overnight camp out and breakfast the under 4 are free. This tour is on the level and area, RV dump station, grills/fire rings, picnic next morning; Oct. 10 – National Public Lands much easier for seniors and very young chil- tables, trash cans, drinking water, and a food/ Day Cave Restoration – volunteers ages 12 and dren; it is wheelchair accessible. beverage and gift concession. Pets are allowed older are invited to help clean up the caves; Wild Cave tours will be conducted into side if on a leash and under control. Oct. 17 – Escape Room in one of the cabins. passages of the cave that are not seen by oth- The cabins are handicap-accessible and Bat Week and a music program are also being ers – Sun. and Tues. mid-June to mid-Aug. at sleep four comfortably (maximum occupan- planned. 5:20 p.m. The three-hour tours are by reserva- cy is six) with a double bed, a set of bunk beds For a full listing of subjects and times: tion, limited to 10 individuals, and cost $40/ and room for a cot. Plumbing, kitchen facil- www.stateparks.mt.gov; phone 406-287-3541 person.

24 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 SOUTHWEST COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

ANACONDA June 20 From noon to 5 p.m. Downtown Philipsburg ANACONDA AFTER HOURS is closed off and full of BBQ chefs and Brewers Formerly called Alive After 5, monthly mix with top-notch live music all afternoon. events are held the second Friday evening Info. at: philipsburgmt.com. starting June 26. Themes vary, such as Re- naissance in Anaconda, and Kids and Fam- PINTLERFEST ily Karnival. Info at: discoveranaconda.com. July 31-Aug 1 This inaugural PintlerFest is hosted at the ART IN WASHOE PARK historic Philipsburg Theatre and features10 July 17-19 separate original performances in the the- Art in Washoe Park is one of the best atre and many more musical acts and artists shows in southwest Montana with 85 jur- appearing at other local businesses. Perfor- ied art and craft booths from around the mances will be held at a matinee schedule 4 US, ethnic foods, and professional enter- to 11 p.m. Friday and 1Noon to 11 p.m.-11 Sat- tainment offered all three days. This show urday with hour-long sets separated by hour- is set up in a beautiful park with lots of room WALTER HINICK/Rediscover Montana and a playground available for kids. Bring Lena Naipo leads Kahulanui a Hawaiian swing band at the Montana Folk long breaks to explore Philipsburg. Info at: ad- your lawn chair and enjoy hours of profes- Festival. venturecrewpresents.com. sional music. Event begins at noon, Friday; SHERIDAN 10a.m. to 110 p.m. Saturday; and, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. Friday only and weekend THE SERBIAN FESTIVAL Championship (mbrwc.com for details.) Join SHERIDAN DAYS SUMMER FESTIVAL AND Aug. 8 various Living History Demonstrations, his- passes can be purchased at any entry gate. STREET PARTY Info at: cvmac.org. The Serbian Festival celebrates the food, toric tours and old-fashioned fun. Info at: music and dance of the Serbian culture with (406) 683-4245. July 31-Aug. 2 SMELTERMEN’S DAY homemade Serbian food and drink available A weekend event, the Sheridan Summer Fes- Aug. 7-8 from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., at the Holy Trinity LABOR DAY WEEKEND BAZAAR tival happens along Main Street. Enjoy count- Sept. 4-7 Various festivities to celebrate the Stack Serbian Orthodox Church, 2100 Continen- less offerings of a car show, food, beer gardens, Food, fun and shopping in Depot Park and Anaconda’s smelting history. Friday is tal Dr., Butte. Info at: holytrinitybutte.org. live music and more. Info at: (406) 842-5431. the Art and Wine Walk with map available at at the south end of Montana Street. Noon Copper Village Art Museum. This free event AN RI RA MONTANA IRISH FESTIVAL – 6 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m. -6 p.m. Saturday THREE FORKS Aug. 14-16 and Sunday; and, 10 a.m. – noon Monday. supports local artists, with donations wel- HEADWATERS COUNTRY JAM come; 11 a.m. Saturday, parade and festivi- All the music, dance and tradition of Info at: (406) 683-4245. Butte’s An Ri Ra Montana Irish Festival hap- June 18-20 ties kick off with added music, food vendors LABOR DAY RODEO pen Friday - Sunday at the Original Mine in Headwaters Country Jam will be at The and kids games; 2 – 6 p.m. Smeltermen’s Aug. 31-Sept. 3 Uptown Butte. Free admission. Info at: Mt- Bridge near Three Forks for a 12-acre Montana Brewfest, 12+ Breweries will join the fun at Wed 9 2, rodeo sat sun afternoon5-6 gaelic.org. weekend festival of star-studded country mu- Kennedy Commons. Check website for info Montana’s biggest weekend, Dillon’s La- sic, food, arena games, camping and memory on Stack Tours and the Tennis Show Ball at SILVER BOW COUNTY FAIR bor Day Rodeo and concert in Dillon be- making. Info at: headwaterscountryjam.com. the Washoe Park Tennis Court. Info at: dis- The Silver Bow County Fair will be, at gins Friday, Aug. zz, and runs through Mon- coveranaconda.com. the Butte Civic Center. Info at: Buttesilver- day, Sept. . ROCKIN’ THE RIVERS MUSIC FESTIVAL bowfair.com. Eli Young Band hedlines 7:30 p.m. Sept. 5. Aug. 13-15 BUTTE Info at: dillonjaycees.com. 683-5771 DEER LODGE The biggest country music festival in Mon- FREEDOM FESTIVAL ENNIS tana has a bit of rock ‘n roll this year during July 3-4 BIG SKY DRAFT HORSE EXPO three days of music featuring more than a Butte is home to Montana’s most spec- June 26-28 FLY FISHING AND OUTDOOR FESTIVAL dozen bands. This summer go-to event has tacular fireworks display on July 3, and the Montana’s only draft horse and mule Sept. 3-5 camping available, and the crowds enjoy ice- festivities continue July 4, with Montana’s show. Show events and classes are selected A weekend to learn and enjoy more about cold beer, ongoing horseshoes and dancing, best Independence Day parade. Info at: sil- with families in mind. Held at Powell County fly fishing, river ecology and outdoor -ac all at The Bridge near Three Forks. Headlin- verbow.mt.us. Fairgrounds, Deer Lodge. Info at: drafthors- tivities in the Maison Valley. Info at: Ennis- ers include Skillet, .38 Special, Lit, Candlebox, chamber.com. MONTANA FOLK FESTIVAL eexpo.com. Iron Maidens, Steven Adler of Guns ’N Roses, Madison Valley Arts Festival July 12-14 Jefferson Starship, Georgia Satellites, Jared COOKIN’ ON THE CLARK FORK BBQ Aug 1, 2020 More than 22 bands bring music from Stewart, Saving Abel, Hell’s Belles, LA Guns, COOK-OFF AND BREWFEST The Ennis Arts Association’s 24th annual around the world Uptown Butte and the Defenders of the Faith, Dead Fervor and Blue July 25 Madison Valley Arts Festival features 55 event is free. Info at: Montanafolkfesti- Tattoo. Info at: Rockintherivers.com. Cookin’ on the Clark Fork BBQ Cook-off juried artist booths, live music, food, chil- val.com. and Brewfest, noon to 6 p.m. on Main Street dren’s rock painting and an art raffle. This WHITEHALL BUTTE 100 MOUNTAIN BIKE RACE in Deer Lodge. Info at: Clarkforkbbq.com. free event happens 10 a.m. to 5 p. m. in Pe- July 25 DILLON ter T.’s Park on Main Street in Ennis. Info at: FRONTIER DAYS Butte 100 Mountain Bike Race is Saturday, backroadtoyellowstone.com. July 24-25 July 28. The nationally-recognized event in- DILLON HISTORY DAYS Visitors will see food and art vendors ga- cludes a 25-, 50- and 100-mile all off-road July 24-26 PHILIPSBURG lore during this Jefferson County event held race that draws professionals and amateurs Mechanical Bull Riding with the winner annually in Whitehall. Info at: whitehallcham- alike. Info at: Butte100.com. going to Las Vegas to compete in MBRWC BLUES, BREWS AND BBQ berofcommerce.com.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 25 REDISCOVER MONTANA

N EW S

National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

REDISCOVER MONTANA RM S PRING/SUMMER 2015 SOUTHEAST COUNTRY HAUNTED

Lee Newspapers of Montana History rediscovermt.com

Photo courtesy James Reich The fi rst permanent school in Billings has a bleak, dark history. It was built By CHARITY DEWING in 1884 along Fourth Avenue North between 29th and 30th streets. Lincoln [email protected] School, now the Lincoln Center had a “brilliant but sadistic principal,” according to Gazette archives. George W. Shoemaker delighted in torturing his students. Traveling the great state of Montana beholds many adventures. Gazette archives reveal the basement of the original Lincoln School was known From driving the Beartooth pass and enjoying the great outdoors to as the “Chamber of Horrors” by students as Shoemaker would whip them so renaissance fairs and state-wide concerts, there is something for ev- terribly that the children’s screams could be heard on the top fl oor.Parents, eryone – even the strange and unusual. students and community members were outraged but somehow, Shoemaker While exploring Big Sky Country, check out some fascinating escaped the allegations. The school fi nally closed because of scarlet fever – history about Billings — and the haunted backstories to some of the several students fell ill, and at least one boy died.The paranormal activity at the city’s most popular landmarks. Lincoln Center today echoes the past. Former students, employees and visitors claim to have felt tapping on the shoulders and poking on the arms.Allegations of an unfriendly man in a top hat and overall sense of dread in the basement are the dominant complaints at the Lincoln Center – believably, it could be Shoemaker, himself.As a place that should have been safe and educational, the cries of students infused into the stonework of the building. Although additions have been built and time has passed, the “Chamber of Horrors” appears to have locked in the sorrow of many young souls.

Gazette archives Believe it or not, the L&L Building, located at 2624 Minnesota Ave., was the Courtesy of the Western Heritage Center heart of Chinatown in Billings during the late 1800s to early 1920s.Yee Sam Lee The Stapleton Building was built circa 1904-1905, and was home to the either built or bought the building in the 1890s. Lee was the most infl uential Hart-Albin store until the location was moved a block north in 1917.However, individual in the Chinatown district – right down to the gangs.Called fractions, the Stapleton Building was built on the former site of Gruwell Livery Stable, Lee was a member of Bing Gong Tong. According to Gazette archives, there and then the Cothron and Todd Livery barn – where horses were kept for hire, were two gangs – the other was Hip Sing. Court testimony from a 1922 Gazette similar to bike rental vestibules in bigger cities today.Gun slinging, disorderly archive reveals gang-activity resulting in an assault case with the Tong division conduct and at least one fi re that took the lives of dozens of horses occurred in court. A quote read, “Every Chinaman who has testifi ed in the trial so far during operation of the stable(s).Now, it houses businesses like The Joy of has said he belong to one society or the other.”Legend has it that Yee Sam Lee Living, Big Dipper, Le Fournil and Rocket’s Burritos. It was nominated among was murdered on the top fl oor of the L&L Building at the hand of a rival gang the haunted locations of our city and little evidence was found to support a member, and now haunts the building.When the building housed a SUBWAY reason why.Nonetheless, customers claim the restroom in Rocket’s Burrito is sandwich shop, employees claimed objects were relocated, they felt tapping unnerving. There is a reported sense of not being alone in the restroom and on the shoulder and laughter – in essence, a playful spirit.Lee was often fi ned, hall area – even when you are. What is causing this heavy feeling of another had several run-ins with law-enforcement and was assaulted on more than one presence at the Stapleton Building that, at least patrons, are experiencing? location – and in fact, almost lost his life when attacked with a hatchet. But, Lee Perhaps it is simply the energy of businesses past, still engrained into the soil was not murdered. He did die there in 1925, at age 72, from natural causes. beneath the foundation of the Stapleton Building.

26 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Built in the 1930s, the hall was originally called Fox Theater until 1986 renovations and change to namesake, Alberta Bair. Interestingly enough, Fox Theater is said to be the same piece of land that the Bair family homesteaded. It seemed only right that they took back what was theirs – at least with title. Alberta Bair donated as much as $600,000 to the theater. When she died, the family again donated a whopping one million to the theater.Stories are told of specters taking a seat in the theater and chairs moving as if someone had just sat down.Former employees and performers have experienced a beautiful woman dressed in costume and ready to perform, her presence is especially prevalent in the dressing room. Theories are that the apparition is actually Alberta, visiting and enjoying the theater that held the birthplace and legacy of her family. Billings Gazette archives

Built in 1910 by Alfred Heimer, chef for the Bu alo Bill Cody Wild West Show, The Rex Hotel has been one of the longest standing establishments in Billings.Mary Westwood of the Billings Gazette wrote an article in 1975 titled, “Will city’s heart beat again?” She was referring to Montana Ave and deemed it the birthplace of Billings – speciﬁ cally the depot and few neighboring hotels. Among those hotels that shaped the city we love today was The Rex Hotel.The Rex survived the end of passenger trains, prohibition, real Wild West legends like Calamity Jane and Bu alo Bill and became center stage to decades of brothels, drugs and squatters. Somehow it has survived it all – and so have its ghosts. Guests and former employees have witnessed full-body apparitions of a man in the hotel’s basement, restrooms, kitchen and dining area. The ghost is rumored to be a former bartender. He seems to be an active and intelligent spirit who plays tricks, watches diners enjoy their meals and shu es throughout the building. Now going through another transition, The Rex has opened its doors again, this time honoring the man who began it all with a new name, Bu alo Block at the Rex. One can only wonder when the longtime resident bartender will begin making his presence known. Gazette archives

Please see HAUNTED, Page 40

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 27 THE ROARING‘20S IN DOWNTOWN BILLINGS

St. Louis Post-Dispatch On January 17, 1920, the Eighteenth Amendment to the United States Constitution banned the transportation, production and sale of alcohol. On December 5, 1933, Ohio, Pennsylvania and Utah ratiﬁ ed the Twenty-ﬁ rst Amendment in state conventions, giving a needed 75 percent majority and e ectively ending prohibition. The amendment didn’t become e ective until December 15, but that didn’t stop consumers from celebrating a few days early.

By CHARITY DEWING erature and music were born. workforce for women; modern housewares like [email protected] With the implementing of the 18th Amend- refrigerators, telephones, washing machines, ment, prohibition became part of the U.S. Con- canned goods and factory-made clothing; and hen you think of the iconic Jazz stitution – making alcohol illegal to produce, the booming automobile industry – it was a Age, the images of ﬂ appers, speak- sell or consume. This caused the country to time of celebration. easies and art deco may come to divide. Many citizens known as “the drys” be- As the modern world took o , so did ur- mind. The Roaring ‘20s was si- lieved the amendment was the answer to the al- banization, making many cities feel the need Wmultaneously an era of restriction, freedom coholic epidemic that was sweeping the nation. to maintain their downtown night scenes and and evolution. It was an experimental decade The “wets” welcomed the end of WWI and the Billings was no exception to any of the move- of which some of the best inventions, art, lit- new modern America that o ered a continuing ments, fads and law-breaking.

28 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Bootlegging, Booze and Speakeasies raided. Beer, whisky, to music, style and the The line between “wets” and “drys” became wine and gin were taken female form was chang- immediately evident at the beginning of the in the raids. ing. Women across the ‘20s. Initially, most of the country, including Speakeasies raid- country cut their hair the newspaper industry was supporting the dry ed were: The Club, in a bob-style; wore movement, including Montana and the Billings 2811 Montana Ave.; dresses and skirts Gazette. But almost immediately, states in the The Turf, 21 N. 29th exposing their knees; East (and their newspapers) began opposing street; The Hub, 2821 danced, smoked and prohibition, even rejecting the terminology Montana Ave.; The Al- drank in public; and “wets.” For many, the new amendment im- ley Club, o 27th St. in mingled with men at posed upon their freedom and soon, moonshine alley between Montana speakeasies. It was all at was becoming a popular and dangerous drink. Ave. and First Ave. North; once scandalous and in- Actress Evelyn Downing According to Gazette archives, booze run- The Manhattan, 2421 ½ cirque 1922. triguing. ning became prevalent within the state. Ac- Montana Ave.; The Missou- Gazette archive The country both loved counts of hospitalizations from “bad” moon- ri Club, 2511 Montana Ave.; The and hated fl appers, who were si- shine was one of the problems. Rum-runners Mint, 2813 1/2 Montana Ave.; The multaneously hailed for the overtness transported liquor from Canada to the U.S. in Smoke House, 2519 1/2 Montana Ave.; T he T-P and fashion while ridiculed for being vulgar, e orts to avoid law enforcement. Raids were club, 15 S. 27th St.; The Forum, 2605 Montana unoriginal and unattractive. frequent and it seemed most of the city was Ave.; The Empire, 20 ¼ North 27th St.; The Blue One Gazette archive shared an Associated fi nding ways to get and hide booze. Front, 2717 ½ Montana Ave.; The Pastime, 2515 Press story that fl appers were not an original Even o cials, both in church and state, were ½ Montana Ave.; The Montana Club, entrance model of bobbed hair and short skirts, but that smuggling moonshine. o alley between Montana Ave. and First Ave. the concept fi rst came from ancient Egypt. The One Gazette archive North near 27th street. article was accompanied with hieroglyphic il- reveals a small article The drink of lustrations of ancient Egyptian women that about a priest caught choice, especially supported the claim that fl appers were not with two gallon jugs of around the holi- worth all the hype. moonshine behind his days, was a steam- Another article with an all-capital headline pulpit. ing bowl of “Tom Please see ROARING ‘20S, Page 30 One of the largest and Jerry,” an old- alcohol busts in Bill- style Christmas ings was former City drink similar to egg- Councilman Herman nog with hot water Schwanz, who was and rum or brandy. It arrested with 500 became customary for quarts of whisky, many of the speakeas- several barrels of ies to serve this drink moonshine, 1,000 and in some cases, even or more quarts a free lunch of pretzels, of beer and 200 bologna, liverwurst and gallons of mash cheese. While the large – an estimated bowls of hot liquor caused $15,000 of liquor. accidents and over-the- Even Billings top drunkenness, the idea own mayor, Ar- was to provide a sense of thur Trenerry, was charged and The comfort, a place to let o Roaring ‘20s put on trial for conspiracy to vi- became such steam and “cheers” with olate the National Prohibition an intriguing and the fellow man… or woman. Act. After 17 hours of deliber- provocative time in ation, the jury found him not history that it inspired Flappers and Fashion guilty. movies, music and And then there were the literature. Flappers are the iconic face speakeasies and yes, there were Gazette archive of The Roaring ‘20s. Women felt a plenty right in the heart of down- new sense of freedom when their men Gazette archives “The Beautiful and Damned” was a novel written by town Billings. went to war and the job market opened. F. Scott Fitzgerald in 1922. It exemplifi ed the Jazz While there are no photos to be found of the After WWI, they remained in the workforce age and mirrored Fitzgerald’s marriage to his muse, speakeasies that once gave Billings reprieve but something else had changed. Modernism “The fi rst American fl apper,” Zelda Fitzgerald. The from long hours on the job, Gazette archives was moving in and the Renaissance period was stage production came to the Babcock theatre on reveal at least 15 downtown speakeasies were out the door. This meant everything from art more than one occasion.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 29 Gazette archives photos Roaring ‘20s LEFT: Loved and hated, fl appers were changing fashion in the From 29 1920s and retailers knew how to market for the trending style. reading, “BILLINGS WILL BE FILLED WITH BALD LEFT BELOW: 1925 Hart-Albin FLAPPERS” claimed the ad appealing to the more modest bobbed hairstyle would lead women’s fashion. to imminent baldness and soon, the world would be eas, a one-bedroom apart- fi lled with hairless women. ment started at only $12.50 a Still, fl appers were the month, while a two bedroom selling point for cinema, plays (with a sleeping porch) cost and fashion. People couldn’t only $28 a month. take their eyes o of the wom- All-you-can-eat seafood en recreating the country in bu et lunches at the Shell- their image. ing Café cost 65 cents; brand Soon, retailers were target- new Chryslers started at just ing and advertising the fl apper $725; diamond engagement movement. Dresses and skirts rings were as low as $15; silk became shorter, even shoes dresses were less than were marketed specifi cally $10 at Hart-Albin; and for the fl apper – or any woman admission to shows at wanting to become one. the Babcock Theatre The fl apper was enhanced by were fi ve to 50 cents. movie stars like Clara Bow who A Gazette ar- became the iconic “It Girl” of chive revealed that lo- the time and socialite Zelda cal downtown stores Fitzgerald, who is recognized played a large role in the as the fi rst “American Flap- evolution of the commu- per.” In addition, Zelda’s hus- nity: “There is another band, F. Scott Fitzgerald pub- light in which the (down- lished his book “The Great town) merchant is sel- Gatsby” in 1925, emphasiz- dom seen, though always ing the fl apper movement, present, and that is as the speakeasies and the rise of patron of all progress, art, the Roaring ‘20s. comfort and invention.” The Gazette published The 1920s paved the way many articles on Fitzger- for the concept of the Amer- ald, even calling him the ican Dream. It embodied Gazette archives prophet of jazz. The Babcock “Life, Liberty, and the pur- Ethel Hays focused on fl appers and their dynamic with men in the 1920s. Theatre also created stage productions of his suit of Happiness,” the fun- second novel, “The Beautiful and Damned.” damental rights from the Declaration of Inde- Ethel Hays, a published cartoonist from pendence. Downtown Billings dreamed big, its came a passing notion that fi zzled like a shoot- Billings, was well-known for her fl apper-style citizens defi ed the Prohibition Act and estab- ing star. The Roaring ‘20s were over. illustrations and cartoons of the 1920s, further lished speakeasies. developing local intrigue and progression to- The dull roar of the ‘20s lingered into the Full Circle wards the fl apper movement. early ‘30s as the economic boom ended with the Great Depression. Here were are again, celebrating a new ver- Living In 1933, Prohibition was eradicated, mak- sion of the ‘20s. The echo of that time swept ing it the fi rst and only revoked amendment in every downtown New Year’s party as woman Because of new inventions, including the the Constitution. Still the wet-dry issue raged wore fringed and sequin costumes, and liquor automobile and other devices that required as- on for a few years to follow, causing hesitation poured freely into champagne glasses welcom- sembly-line production, there was an economic to reopen drinking establishments throughout ing the New Year. boom with the increased job market. Living be- the country. Still, Montana beer sales increased 2020 is here and not unlike the Roaring ‘20s, came a little easier to manage and with urban- and places like The Billings Brewing Co. found it is boisterous – full of artists, inventors, activ- ization, apartments became a trendy way to live solid footing in the community. ists, rebels and patrons. in the big city. The grand allure of the speakeasies, and all Downtown Billings still captures an ev- In downtown Billings and surrounding ar- that it entailed, came to an end. The fl apper beer-growing and living time capsule of that roar.

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SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 31 The Beartooth Mountains shimmer in the haze beyond a large meadow atop the Pryor Mountains that is stippled with green gentian plants. BRETT FRENCH photos, Billings Gazette

Pryor Mountain trail cooperation BLM, USFS collaborating Cooperation Wild place The Beartooth Ranger District of the Custer The Pryor Mountains are an island range Gallatin National Forest and the Billings Field that inhabit a rain shadow east of the larger to make travel easier O ce of the Bureau of Land Management are Beartooth Mountains. At their 4,800-foot ele- working together to make trips like the Mar- vation base, the Pryors are parched, populated By BRETT FRENCH mans’ easier, while also improving the routes by steep limestone cli s, twisted juniper and [email protected] to alter decades of environmental and vehicle fragrant sage. But drive or hike upward about wear and tear. six miles while climbing 3,700 feet in elevation Their ATV parked along a rocky road up Red “Our long-term goal is to make recreation as and the mountains transition into large swaths Pryor Mountain, Gary and Connie Marman a whole more seamless between the two agen- of dense Douglas fi r, meadows of stalky green studied a travel map spread across the seat while cies,” said Jenny Alexander, outdoor recreation gentianand ground-hugging white sego lilies. also taking time to appreciate the vast view. planner for the BLM in Billings. “The public just This range has a split personality. “It’s always amazing to me how far you can wants to ride and know where they’re at.” The division is vertical as well as horizon- see,” Connie said, gazing across the Bighorn “One reason I think we’ve been successful is tal. Crooked Creekcreates a deep dividing line Basin to the Absaroka and Beartooth moun- we’ve had support from motorized and nonmo- between the west and east Pryors. The west is tains. “We try to explain that to our friends in torized groups,” added Je Gildehaus, outdoor mainly Forest Service land up high, with BLM Minnesota and they just don’t understand.” recreation planner for the Beartooth District. below. In the East Pryors the BLM and National The Marmans were spending a weekday “That’s been really helpful to get support from Park Service share much of the highlands and exploring the Pryor Mountains with their dog, a wide range of user groups.” lowlands, including the famed wild horse range, Rusty. It was the fi rst time they had adventured while the national forest is confi ned mostly to into the island range south of the their Bill- the west around Big Ice ings home, one that Gary had vowed to Cave. visit since moving to the city in 2007.

The 850 trail sign at this BLM-Forest Service boundary will be a relic of the past as the agencies work together to make the routes the same number even when they cross boundaries. Jenny Alexander, at left, is the BLM recreation o cer, and Je Gildehaus, at right oversees recreation for the Beartooth Ranger District.

32 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Other Pryor routes Accessing the Pryor Mountains Head Overlook in the Pryors is also can be di cult by road. in disrepair. Lack of funding and the The Sage Creek Road on the west possibility that the BIA and Crow end is deeply rutted. Forest Service Tribe may repair Sage Creek Road attempts to re-engineer the route also prompted the Forest Service years ago were thwarted by the to back o improving the Powerline multiple owners of land on the Crow Road that stays on forest land to Reservation. access Sage Creek. Backing away, the agency gave all On the Main Fork of Rock Creek, of its engineering plans for the route however, funding repaired that route to the Bureau of Indian A airs and to within two miles of Glacier Lake the tribe in the hopes they would fi x making it passable to two-wheel Jenny Alexander of the BLM loads up the agency’s Honda UTV after a morning the road. drive vehicles. It will cost $30,000 to of travel on the Stockman Trail in the Pryor Mountains. Road funding for the Forest Ser- $40,000 to fi nish the work. vice is di cult to come by, according The West Rosebud Road has also So for trail users motoring down der said. “ATV users want a little to Je Gildehaus, of the Beartooth been repaired after being closed for a BLM route, the transition to for- something di erent. We’ll try to Ranger District, which is why the six weeks after a spring popped up in est land would also result in a new make it as diverse as possible.” road past the Big Ice Cave to Dry the middle of the route. trail number. Now the agencies are An example would be the Sykes working together to ensure that a Ridge Road, which provides views loop route is numbered the same down into the Bighorn Canyon as Alexander said the BLM has users’ ability or confi dence. While no matter where the person trav- well as access to a double limestone about 50 miles of motorized trailin a two-wheel-drive pickup with els. The only change would be a arch. This route at the far east end the Pryors, and none of them are clearance might be able to climb sign denoting which federal land of the range would be maintained restricted to any certain vehicle. some routes in dry conditions, a agency is in charge when crossing a for ATVs. The Burnt Timber Road, But some roads like Sykes are ex- Subaru Outback probably doesn’t boundary. which is just to the west of Sykes, tremely narrow, so Jeep use is dis- have enough clearance. But the “Each of these routes, too, will would be maintained for four- couraged. Likewise the Forest Ser- be a little di erent level,” Alexan- wheel drive vehicles like Jeeps. vice routes are restricted only by Please see PRYOR, Page 34

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34 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 MOSS MANSION AND THE WESTERN HERITAGE CENTER offer a chance to learn about Billings history

By MIKE KORDENBROCK over the land, motivated in party Northern Pacifi c Railroad con- of the railroad and the rise of Bill- mkordenbrock@billingsgazette. by a gold rush in the 1860s, more struction and land acquisition ings came at the cost of Coulson, com than 50 years after Lewis and Clark strategy which put tracks through a town that once existed nearby fi rst explored the region. the middle of cities in accordance along the river in an attempt to o understand the history of Montana became a territory in with a symmetrical plat design. court business from steamboats. Billings, Montana’s larg- 1864 and a state in 1889. The result is a city, founded Coulson had a reputation for est city, it helps to fi rst talk As Kooistra tells it Billings is in 1882, that has developed a rougher, rowdier way of life in about the history of rail- among the last cities in Montana uniquely on either side of the West, but the town eventually Troads. to be constructed the railroad tracks, with disappeared due to growth so rap- That’s the view of Kevin Koo- along early the southern side hav- id in Billings it seemed to be an act istra, executive director of the ing a signifi cant indus- of magic, leading to Billings being Western Heritage Center, a mu- trial business presence. nicknamed The Magic City. One seum and historical outreach or- The arrival of the 47 parks in Billings is called ganization located in the heart of Coulson Park and located where downtown Billings. the town used to stand. Montana had The symmetric layout of down- been inhabited by town Billings ultimately created Native Ameri- an industrial corri- cans for cen- dor to the south turies before that would be- A m er ic a n s come home to a began taking diverse minori- ty population

Please see MOSS, Page 36

Moss Mansion Gazette sta

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 35 Gazette Sta The dining room in the Moss Mansion is planned as the main scenery for the ﬁ lming of Shane Patrick McClurg’s upcoming independent movie, “Oswald’s Dinner.”

Moss More information From 35 Western Heritage Center driven in part by the needs of re- Address: 2822 Montana Ave., gional agriculture and industry. Billings, MT, 59101 In its earlier years the city of Phone: 406-256-6809 Billings had a sizable population of Website: www.ywhc.org German Russians, known as Volga Moss Mansion Germans, along with immigrants Address: 914 Division Street, from Mexico, Japan and China. Billings, MT, 59101 Along Division Street stands Phone: 406-256-5100 one of the most spectacular hold- Website: www.mossmansion.com overs from Billings’ past, a tower- Courtesy of the Moss Mansion The Moss Family on the 50th anniversary of Mattie and P.B. Moss.Front: Mattie ing red sandstone structure known and P.B. MossFrom left to right: Woodson Jackson, Kula, Preston Boyd Moss, Jr., as the Moss Mansion. The house The Moss Mansion has been Melville, and David Hickman Moss III. was built in 1903 at the behest of maintained as a museum and event Billings entrepreneur Preston Boyd venue for decades and continues to geared towards children. Moss. o er tours inside, along with spe- The mansion has resident histo- Moss enlisted architect Henry cial programming throughout the rians to lead guided tours, but also Janeway Hardenbergh, the same year. Summer 2019 will include o ers people the chance to take man who designed the Waldorf its ﬁ rst ever Kids Fest, in which self-guided tours. “We’ve gotten Astoria hotel, to design his home, children will have a chance to visit such great feedback from people which is now on the National Reg- di erent booths sta ed by edu- who love to come in and visit the ister of Historic Places and has cational outreach partners of the Moss at their own pace,” said Jen- been featured in movies including mansion. That event is slated for na Peete, executive director of the “Return to Lonesome Dove.” July 27. Moss Mansion. Moss had ﬁ ve children and his The Mansion is also planning to The mansion does not have air daughter, Melville, lived in the roll out a special display on stained conditioning and can get warm in mansion until the 1980s when glass windows, of which the build- the summertime. To cool o , peo- Gazette Sta he died. Some people believe the ing has many. The exhibit will look ple can stroll the grounds and visit Woodwork details in the dining room mansion is haunted by ghosts of into how stained glass windows the gardens maintained around the in the Moss Mansion at 914 Division the Moss family. are made and include information property. St.

36 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020

Gazette Sta SOUTHEAST COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

from 5K, 10K or 2-Mile Health Walk; all entertainment and variety acts. There start at St. Vincent Healthcare and are a are competitive events, entertainment fundraiser for the YMCA and Billings Trail- and a PRCA rodeo event. Night shows Net. Info at: (406)-254-7426; heartand- feature internationally known artists. solerace.org. Info at: montanafair.com. MONTANA ACTIVE LIFE FESTIVAL CROW AGENCY June 15 LITTLE BIGHORN REENACTMENT Held before and after the Heart & Sole Race, this festival happens 8-11 a.m. at Real Bird’s Battle of Little Bighorn Re- Dehler Park, home of the Billings Mus- enactment happens 1-3 p.m. each day, tangs. This free healthy lifestyle event with the Real Bird family showing troopers features live music, more than 40 in- and braves as they rush through the Little teractive booths, kids’ events and family Bighorn River, just as they did 140 years fun. Info at: (406)-254-7426; heartand- ago. The battle is held at Garryowen, a solerace.org. portion of the Sioux camp where soldiers SYMPHONY IN THE PARK are believed to have attacked the village. Info at: littlebighornreenactment.com. June 28 CROW FAIR CELEBRATION, POWWOW BETHANY BAKER, Billings Gazette Live, symphonic music comes to Pio- & RODEO Tessa Thompson of Tesseract Dance Collective performs at Montana neer Park for a relaxing evening while Crow Fair attracts more than 50,000 Renaissance Festival at ZooMontana. you sit on your blanket or lawn chair en- spectators and participants from the joying a picnic from food vendors. Take a wide variety of refreshments. Pancake around the world. Celebration features BILLINGS in the 4 p.m. Instrument Petting Zoo, breakfast, artist demonstrations and parades, a four-day powwow, a rodeo and 5 p.m. Billings Community Band Concert, lively musical acts are on the grounds horse races. The largest Native American FIRST FRIDAY 6:45 p.m. Young Conductors’ Contest and of Moss Mansion, 914 Division St. Info event in Montana has one of the biggest the Billings Symphony Orchestra Concert First Friday of every month, various at: (406)-256-5100; Mossmansion.com. powwows in the country and is held by locations at 7 p.m. Reserved parking ($5) and re- the Apsáalooke people of the Crow In- MONTANA RENAISSANCE FESTIVAL served seating ($10) are available. Info dian Reservation just South of Hardin. From 5-8 p.m., downtown businesses at: (406)-252-3610; billingssymphony.org. Info at: crazycrow.com come together to o er specials on food June 6-7 SUMMERFAIR and drinks, merchandise and gallery Revel in the atmosphere of a 16th Cen- LAUREL events. tury European Country Festival at Zoo- June 26-28, 4-8 p.m. FOURTH OF JULY CELEBRATION ALIVE AFTER 5 Montana, 2100 S. Shiloh Rd. Explore the Yellowstone Art Museum hosts the re- Held 5–8 p.m. each Thursday through bustling marketplace, attend a royal gion’s largest arts and crafts festival fea- July 4 the summer, this annual outdoor music wedding, interact with costumed char- turing some of the best artisans, crafts- acters and enjoy full-contact armored Laurel entertains more than 30,000 series happens at a di erent venue every people and entertainers in the area. More people, starting at the 6-11 a.m. pan- week. Each evening combines live music, jousting tournaments. Storytellers, mu- than 100 artists, community groups and sicians, jousters and villagers welcome cake breakfast at Fireman’s Park, fol- adult beverages, fresh food and favor- food vendors are at Veterans Park, 13th lowed by The Chief Joseph Run that be- ite downtown locations such as restau- all while the air fills with scents of foods Street West and Poly Drive. This year, and ale from the Renaissance period. It gins at Thomson Park with races set for rants, breweries and cultural venues. the weekend event is open Friday night, 2, 4 and 8 miles. A Kiddies Parade begins Info at: (406)-294-5060 or downtown- happens 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday and 4–9 p.m. with live music by Mojo Cats at 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Sunday. Info at: mon- at 10 a.m. at Western Security Bank and billings.com. 5 p.m.; Saturday hours are 9 a.m.-5 p.m.; ends at Firefighter’s Memorial. The Grand tanarenfest.com. Sunday hours are 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Admis- ARTWALK - DOWNTOWN BILLINGS Parade is at 11 a.m. A Food and Craft Fair STRAWBERRY FESTIVAL sion is $3 for adults, free for children ages begins at 9 a.m. and ends at 9 p.m. As Many fine arts and crafts o ered for 12 and younger. Info at: artmuseum.org. June 6 soon as it is dark, one of Montana’s larg- sale during the Downtown Billings Alli- Magic City Blues est fireworks display takes over. Info at: ance ArtWalk, 5–9 p.m. on select Fridays. Held 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. in the streets of Bring your ID for this 18-and older Mon- laurelmontana.org Host sites include galleries, art studios, downtown Billings, the long-cherished tana Urban Music Festival happening on businesses, a downtown Billings church, community event opens the summer the 2500 block of Montana Avenue with POMPEYS PILLAR nonprofit entities, restaurants and other season with a rich diversity in arts and gates opening each day at 5 p.m. Info at: venues who value the creative spirit that crafts, interactive children’s area, fresh magiccityblues.com. CLARK DAY thrives in downtown Billings. ArtWalk is produce and strawberries, food-truck MONTANAFAIR Visit this historic sandstone pillar on “weather-resistant.” Info at: downtown- fare, live street entertainment and a Aug. 7-15 July 25 the same date Capt. William Clark billings.com. 60-foot strawberry shortcake. Info at: signed the monument during his travel SPRINGFEST AT MOSS MANSION (406)-294-5060; downtownbillings.com. MontanaFair is an agricultural celebra- down the Yellowstone River. Learn the pil- HEART & SOLE RACE tion in the historic tradition of fairs. Held lar’s Native American heritage with pre- June 6 at MetraPark, the 9-day celebration has sentations. Sponsored jointly by the Bu- June 20 This juried art festival features hand- livestock, arts and crafts, a carnival and reau of Land Management and the Friends icrafts and art by regional artists, an- The Annual Heart & Soul Race features food. Stages provide entertainment that of Pompey’s Pillar; free admission. Info tique booths, musical entertainment and people of all ages and abilities. Choose can include music, comedy, hypnosis, kids’ at: (406)-969-5380; pompeyspillar.org.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 37 REDISCOVER MONTANA

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National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

CENTRAL COUNTRY REDISCOVER MONTANA RM S PRING/SUMMER 2015

By INDEPENDENT RECORD sta ort Benton comes highly FORT recommended. Forbes Magazine’s list of America’s top 15 pret- Lee Newspapers of Montana tiest towns included Fort rediscovermt.com FBenton and said the West is well BENTON preserved and celebrated there. Andrew Evans, National Geo- graphic’s “digital nomad,” sa- vored the languid Missouri Riv- a portal to Montana history er downstream of this historic river town as it passed through CASEY PAGE/Gazette Sta the famed White Cli s area. Shep the loyal sheepdog’s lonely, fi ve-and-a-half year vigil over the train station in Fort Benton is a famous piece of He wrote of the experience and Montana folklore. Shep, who followed a dying owner to the town in 1936 and never left, was adopted by the town and compared his feelings to those of memorialized 50 years after his death with a “heroic-sized bronze sculpture,” which sits on Front Street near the Grand Meriwether Lewis, whose pas- Union Hotel. sage with the expedition helped cement Fort Benton’s place in history. Fort Benton is north and east of Great Falls and less than an hour’s drive along Highway 87. It bills itself as the birthplace of Montana – a claim that history supports and a trademark protects. The town traces its roots to Courtesy photo 1846, when the foundation was Fort Benton laid for the fort that would be built there. the train station after seeing his The fi rst steamboat arrived in owner’s body loaded on a train in 1860, according to the Fort Ben- 1936 for delivery to relatives back ton information website www. East. The dog met four trains fortbenton.com. each day until its death in hopes The discovery of gold two COURTESY PHOTO/KURT WILSON, Missoulian of the sheepherder’s return. years later in what would be- Historic photograph showing men lining the bar at the Grand Union Hotel. The Grand Union Hotel, built come Bannack further fueled in 1882 and since restored, is an- Fort Benton’s growth, as those The Museum of the Upper ter, and the Schwinden Library other reason for visitors to in- seeking their fortunes and oth- Missouri, the state of Montana’s and Archives are destinations for clude Fort Benton in their plans. ers that would provide them with Museum of the Northern Great visitors and historical research- The hotel was known as the fi n- the goods they needed passed Plains, Homestead Village, The ers alike. est hotel between St. Louis and through the town. The 30-year Hornaday Smithsonian Bu alo This is also the Montana town Seattle. era of the steamboat ended in Gallery, the Upper Missouri Riv- with a life-size bronze memori- And the Grand Union is the 1890 when the railroad arrived. er Breaks National Monument al to a sheepherder’s dog. Shep, place to stay, if visitors are lucky What remains of that history Interpretive Center, Joel F. Over- as the dog was named, kept his enough to be able to get a room helps bring people there today. holser Historical Research Cen- vigil for more than fi ve years at there.

38 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 HISTORY AND BEAUTY MEET at First Peoples Buffalo Jump

By INDEPENDENT RECORD sta used the site, with artifacts dating back to available at http://stateparks.mt.gov/. 300 A.D. In 2015 First Peoples was listed as While every season o ers a di erent irst Peoples Bu alo Jump is where a National Historic Landmark. experience at First Peoples, the most beauty meets history and the seem- The largest jump in North America, popular times tend to be early summer ingly endless prairie momentarily First Peoples Bu alo Jump was used by and fall. Located only about 4 miles falls away to the sky. 13 di erent tribes. A tour of the interpre- from the interstate, both Records of Native Americans us- tive center provides some history of those tourists and Mon- Fing the bu alo jump, called Ulm Pishkun, tribes, which include Pend O’reille, Sho- tana residents near Ulm date back thousands of years. shone, Assiniboine, Blackfeet, Cree, Gros have easy ac- Now a state park, First Peoples Bu alo Ventre, Salish and others. cess to the Jump o ers visitors an interpretive center With panoramic views of the Rocky park. and 3.5-mile hiking trail that allows nearly Mountain Front, the beauty is also a major unparalleled access and education. attraction for visitors. Courtesy photo Herds of 100 or more bison were fun- Events honoring the history of Bu alo Jump State Park o ers unparalleled access and education. neled to the sandstone cli which at ﬁ rst First Peoples have become a staple of glance seems only to be a part of the prairie. the park. A day of traditional Native But here the ground suddenly disappears, American games and opportunities sending unsuspecting bison plummeting to try primitive weapons such at 30 to 50 feet as they followed the animals in the atlatl and archery have become front of them. annual summer pro- Still evident “drive lines” lead to the grams. edge while bison bones and other remnants More information below demonstrate the e ectiveness and on the state park and e ciency with which Native Americans upcoming programs is

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 39 CHARLIE RUSSELL CHEW-CHOO is a dinner theater on wheels

By INDEPENDENT RECORD the spur track, which was built in sta about 1912 as a connection between the town and Great Falls. In all, it’s The Charlie Russell Chew-Choo includes masked bandits, saloon girls, rolling asked bandits, saloon a 50-mile trek. hillsides and an ample slab of prime rib. girls, rolling hillsides The train ride lasts an average and an ample slab of of four hours. Lively musicians tures with riders. will be o ered on certain Fridays prime rib are all part of entertain and instigate during the Food Networks deemed Char- and Saturdays until Oct. 3. Mthe show aboard the Charlie Rus- venture. There is also some narra- lie Russell Chew-Choo one of the Each trainload can accommo- sell Chew-Choo. tion about the area and namesake craziest restaurants in America. date about 240 passengers, and The train ride starts on the out- Charlie Russell himself. Trip Advisor lists the Charlie Rus- riders are encouraged to purchase skirts of Lewistown, which is nes- Meanwhile, wildlife such as sell Chew-Choo as one of the best tickets well in advance. tled between the mountains and antelope, eagles and coyote can be thing to do in Lewistown. For more information or to prairies in central Montana. The seen from the ﬁ ve rail cars. The Chew-Choo started in the purchase tickets, contact the train chugs along ranches and even On the way back, a visit from the late 1990s as a way to bring more Lewistown Area Chamber of through a tunnel on its way to Den- Salt Creek Gang is imminent. And visitors to the area. It was a hit. Commerce at 406-535-5436, ton. It then makes its way back to even though they are train robbers, The 2020 schedule starts with a 866-912-3980 or lewchamb@ the northwest Lewistown area on they are always happy to take pic- Mother’s Day ride on May 10. Rides midrivers.com.

Haunted From 27 CASEY PAGE/Gazette Sta Constructed in Victorian-Italianate style, the Oxford Hotel was built circa 1908 and completed in 1909. According to Gazette archives, the back part of the building was added on during WWI and the entire building was completed around 1917.According to a Gazette article written on Sept. 9, 1922, Cli ord Ramsbotton, of Bu alo, Wyo., worrying about his health, shot himself in the forehead with a .32 automatic revolver at 8:15 a.m., in his room at the Oxford. The bullet entered his forehead just above the right eye and came out at the back of the skull. Papers found in his coat indicate that he had been contemplating the deed for some time.Another gruesome story tied to the Oxford is an alleged murder of another long-term resident. According to a 1966 Gazette article, the body of Tobias Gustav Hallinger, 83, of the Oxford Hotel, an elderly man from Norway, was found in Alkali Creek on Monday, Feb. 21, 1966. Oxford Hotel personnel told deputies Hallinger left the hotel carrying a suitcase. The suitcase was never found.There were also numerous natural deaths and disturbances by residents throughout the years of the hotel.The city condemned the building for use as a hotel in 1981. Mike and Alexandra Gregory purchased the building – including the hotel’s furniture – and opened Oxford Antiques that year.There is a sense of heaviness throughout the establishment. Velvet wall paper, Victorian-style ceiling designs and doors that once lead to many guest rooms and living quarters remain evident.Upstairs is a di erent vibe, altogether. Customers have felt nausea, dizziness, and immense pressure to the head and eyes.Is there a ghost at Oxford Antiques? Perhaps there are several. The old hotel is ﬁ lled with numerous trinkets, clothing, photos, heirlooms, historical relics and journals. It is a collection of other people’s lives – and that is a haunting all in itself. 40 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 CENTRAL COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

CHOTEAU

TETON COUNTY 4-H FAIR June 22-28 Held at the Choteau Fairgrounds, the Teton County Fair is the summer’s premier event meant to showcase the talents and hard work of the local 4-H members. Call 406-466-2491 for more information. CONRAD

WOOP-UP TRAIL DAYS June 5-6 The annual Whoop-Up Days at the Con- rad Lions Whoop Up Rodeo Grounds is a Courtesy Lewis and Clark Foundation two-day rodeo that also includes a parade, The Lewis and Clark Festival fun run, pancake breakfast, live entertainment and more. Visit www.conradmt.com/ Courtesy photo SHELBY whoopup for more information. Montana Cowboy Poetry Gathering and Western Music Rendezvous in FORT BENTON Lewistown. SHELBY KITE FESTIVAL June 13 FORT BENTON SUMMER Includes superstar entertainment, carni- Plains grasslands region. Visit mtaudu- val rides, a pro-rodeo, food vendors, live- If you don’t have a kite of your own, you CELEBRATION bon.org for more information. stock shows, stage acts, exhibits and more. can make one (free for kids) or buy one. June 26-28 Call 406-727-8900 for more information. CENTRAL MONTANA FAIR The festival will also feature face painting Montana’s “birthplace” community July 22-25 and vendors offering food, crafts, jewelry, celebrates summer with a parade, arts HAVRE and other goodies. Call 406-434-7184 for Enjoy PRCA Rodeo action, entertainment more information. and crafts, historical tours, free enter- BLACK POWDER MUZZLE DAY by Ned LeDoux, a demolition derby and tainment, street dances, a fishing derby May 23-25 more at the Fergus County Fairgrounds. WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS and fireworks. Also included is a fun walk Call (406) 535-8841 for more information. and run. Visit www.fortbenton.com for The competition at Fort Assiniboine will RED ANTS PANTS MUSIC FESTIVAL MONTANA COWBOY POETRY more information. have almost 40 events, including long- July 23-26 range and primitive shoots, tomahawk GATHERING AND WESTERN MUSIC GREAT FALLS and knife throwing, and a pancake race. RENDEZVOUS Located on the Jackson Ranch three miles Primitive dress is encouraged, and camp- outside of White Sulphur Springs, the fes- CRUISIN’ THE DRAG Aug. 13-16 ing is available. Call 406-265-7431 for more tival is designed to bring people together May 2 This cultural festival is dedicated to information. and support the Red Ants Pants Foundation, celebrating and preserving the history, Downtown Great Falls will fill with car which is dedicated to women’s leadership, LIVING HISTORY DAY heritage and values of the cowboy life- enthusiasts from around the region for working family farms and ranches, and ru- June 6 style of the Upper Rocky Mountain West. ral communities. The festival was founded Electric City’s annual classic car show. Visit Experience Havre’s early history with Through cowboy poetry and western mu- and is produced by Red Ants Pants owner https://visitgreatfallsmontana.org/event/ re-enactments of the underground busi- sic lyrics, an oral history of the American Sarah Calhoun. It remains a home-grown cruisin-the-drag/for more information. nesses when the stores come to life. En- cowboy is shared. Call 406-538-4575 or celebration, run by a dedicated crew and GREAT FALLS joy tasty homemade pastry in the Gour- email [email protected] for 250 festival volunteers. Call 406-209-8135 CRAFT BEER WEEK ley Brothers Bakery, as well as sausage, more information. for more information. June 7-13 ice cream and soda samples in the Meat Join the fun all week long, including the Market and Boones Drug Store. Pacific . Craft Beer Obstacle Course, Beer Olympics, Junction Railway Club will have a spe- and the Montana Brew Fest. Call 406-453- cial train run as well in the Frank DeRosa 6151 for more information. Railroad Museum. Call 406-265-4383 for more information. LEWIS AND CLARK FESTIVAL June 19-21 LEWISTOWN Every June you have the chance to go WINGS ACROSS THE BIG SKY back in time and celebrate Lewis and Clark, BIRD FESTIVAL who spent nearly a month in the Great Falls June 5-7 area on their way to the Pacific in 1805. Call 406-452-5661 for more information. The keynote speaker for this year’s fes- rideRide the the Charlie R ussell Chew-Choo Di n!raiTnner MONTANA STATE FAIR tival is Marshall Johnson, vice president of CHARLIE RUSSELL July 24-Aug. 1 Audubon Conservation Ranching for Na- me RiPri b Dinner ~ WOld est Characters tional Audubon Society. The festival fea- CHEW-CHOO DINNER TRAIN! Experience Montana’s culture and his- tures numerous birding outings planned Prime Rib DinnerEntertai•OldWnmentest Charac ~ters Big• Ent ertainmen t • ByScenerSky ig Sky Scenery tory at the Montana ExpoPark in Great Falls. to the surrounding diverse Northern Great LEWISTOWN,Lewistown, MT (406) MT 535-5436 ~ 406- MontanaDinnerTrain.com5436535- SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 41 Welcome to & GOOD TYMES CASINO Your one stop shop for ... Butte, mt FOOD FUEL FUN! NEW PLAYERS CLUB - NEW BETTER WAYS TO WIN! Join us for a winning Good Tyme! Drive a Clean Car - Try our Touchless Car Wash

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Stop by the Butte Visitor’s Center Come Stay at one of & get information on Individual WelButcote’sme NewesttoHot Butteels Attractions, Walking Tours, Your Stay Includes: Maps & More! Business Service Health & Fitness Center Our staff will answer any of your Butte questions. IndoorPoolandSpa “The richest hill on earth” Trolley Tour Free Breakfas Call to schedule yours!

ChAMBer SuMMer hourS (lATe MAy-SepT) 2609 Harrison Ave – Butte Monday-Saturday 8aM-6pM | Sunday 9aM-4pM Reservations 406-782-2000 1000 George Street | Butte, MT 59701 Phone: (406) 723-3177| Toll Free: (800) 735-6814 www.buttechamber.org | www.buttecvb.com While in town don’t forget to try... The Original JOhn’s POrk ChOP sandwiCh A Lean Pork Sirloin With A Tradition Of Great Taste. Make it a CoMbo! Buy Any sAnDWich or entree... Add Fries & Medium Drink...$4.00 Add Fries & Large Drink...$4.25

24002400Har Harrisonrison • 782-1783 • 782-1783| 8 |W.W 8 W. Mercury Mercury • 782-0812 • 782-0812 | www.PorkChopJohns.com | www.PorkChopJohns.com 42 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 visit southwest montana ANACONDA St. Timothy’s Summer Music Festival 2020 BUTTE June 28 July 12 July 26 August 9 August 23 Open Tues. - Sat. 11:30am - 7:00pm Open MCMS with Pam Drews Chinook Charlotte Dike Montana St. & Rowe Rd. Range Muir Philips Winds Trio

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Montana’s Most Unique Bar Celebrating over 100 years

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MONDAY-THURSDAY 4PM-9PM National Registry of Historic Places FRIDAY & SATURDAY 2PM- 10:30PM Dillon office Deer loDge office 32 N. Washington St., Dillon, MT. 401 Milwaukee, Deer Lodge, MT. 406-723-8928 • 51 & 53 W. Park St. 406-683-5191 406-846-2202 www.pioneerfeD.com

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 43 SOUTHWEST MONTANA HOT SPOTS

★1 ★2 ★3

★5 ★4

1 DEER LODGE Glacier Bank Member FDIC Glacier Bank Member FDIC Paul Bunyan’s ATM 307 E. Park Ave ATM 1880 Harrison Ave. 3150 Busch St. Deer Park AVAILABLE AVAILABLE Golf Course (406) 563-5203 (406) 497-7000 (406) 494-7817 www.glacierbank.com 3701 Harrison Ave. Mon.-Fri. 10am-8pm; 838 Golf Course Rd. (406) 494-3900 Sat. 11am-4pm (406) 846-1625 RFWave High Speed www.glacierbank.com www.paulbunyans.letseat.at Open Daily Internet See us on Facebook 204 E. Commercial Ave. Joe’s Pasty Uno’s Lounge (406) 563-5333 1641 Grand Ave. 3235 Harrison Ave. Pioneer Federal Member FDIC Mon.-Fri. 8:30am-5pm (406) 723-9071 (406) 494-0131 401 Milwaukee Ave. ATM www.rfwave.net Mon.-Fri. 7am-7pm; Mon.-Sun. 12pm-12am AVAILABLE (406) 846-2202 Sat. 7am-3pm www.pioneerfed.com 3 BUTTE Zobaney’s Christina’s Cocina Lisac’s Tire 2400 Harvard St. 2 ANACONDA 2109 Yale Ave. (406) 565-5657 2201 Silver Bow Blvd. (406) 782-4294 Wed.-Sat. 11am-7:30pm Anaconda (406) 723-8444 Mon.-Fri. 8am-6pm; See us on Facebook Country Club Mon.-Thur. 11am-8:30pm; Sat. 8am-5pm 1521 Country Fri.-Sat. 11am-9pm 4 DILLON www.lisactire.com Club Rd. www.christinascocinacafe.com (406) 797-3220 Pioneer Federal Member FDIC Lisac’s Tri Stop & Casino 32 N. Washington St. www.anacondacountryclub.com Family Roots ATM Restaurant 2544 Harrison Ave. AVAILABLE (406) 683-5191 (406) 782-9359 Dunne 22 W. Galena St. www.pioneerfed.com Open 24 Hours Communications Inc. (406) 299-2888 BOZEMAN 204 E. Commercial Ave. Wed.-Fri. 11am-9pm; Park Street Liquors 5 (406) 563-7115 Sat. 8am-9pm 133 W. Park St. Bozeman Brewing Co. www.rf-team.com Sun. 8am-8pm (406) 782-6278 504 N. Broadway Ave. See us on Facebook Mon.-Sat. 9am-8pm (406) 585-9142 www.brozemanbrewing.com

44 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA

N EW S

National forest

Wilderness area and/or national wildlife refuge National park

Indian reservation

MISSOURI RIVER COUNTRY REDISCOVER MONTANA More information RM Zortman Motel & Garage S PRING/SUMMER 2015 Phone: 406-673-3160 Address: 395 Whitcomb St., Zort- man, MT Website: zortmanmotel.webstarts. com Email: [email protected] Info: The motel accepts reservations and also has RV park accomada- tions. Guests are allowed to pan for gold on the motel owner’s claim. Mo- tel has laundry and other amenities. AND Lee Newspapers of Montana Owners have maps, information and BLOOD GOLDrediscovermt.comadvice for recreation and sightsee- Both have a place in history of Zortman and Landusky ing in the area. Buckhorn Store, Cabins & RV By MIKE KORDENBROCK Outlaw-Lawman History Asso- fell, dying in 12 minutes.” Park mkordenbrock@ ciation described how Curry had This story of life and death and billingsgazette.com come for blood after Landusky had revenge between two embittered Phone: 406-673-3162 him arrested on assault charges. neighbors in a remote stretch of Address: 143 Whitcomb St., Zort- hese days the towns Curry, the journal claims, had been America concludes just two sen- man, MT courting Landusky’s daughter tences later. of Zortman and Info: The general store has groceries Landusky, nestled without her father’s approval. “Landusky was about 50 years Despite being badly beaten, of age and leaves a family,” The and other supplies, along with RV in the Little Rockies options and cabin rentals. of Montana, have a the journal reports Landusky fi red Gazette reported. “Reports from reputation for recre- fi rst, but either missed or misfi red. the scene are very meager.” Miner’s Club Cafe ation and small town Someone handed the unarmed An unpleasant death also be- friendliness. They are places that Curry his gun and he shot back, fell the namesake of Zortman. Address: 10 Whitcomb St., Zortman, T killing Landusky in what eleven Zortman died of colon cancer MT, 59546 take visitors out of the bustle of the 21st century and into a world people at a later inquest verifi ed in 1933. Destitute by the time he Phone: 406-673-3515 where things move at a slower was an act of self-defense. passed in a hospital in Big Tim- An edition of the Billings Ga- ber, a small town in Sweet Grass Info: This bar and cafe o ers both pace and neighbors stop to chat. eating and drinking options. But that peace hasn’t always zette newspaper from 1895 tells County near the Crazy Moun- held sway in these small towns. another version of events. tains, he was buried in an un- There is both gold and blood in the “They had been neighbors for marked grave—until he was ex- the church has been signed by trav- nine years, but were enemies for humed in 2005. history of Zortman and Landusky. elers far and wide. some two years past,” The news- Zortman motel owner and his- The founding of Zortman and On the opposite end of the spec- paper reported in an article with tory enthusiast Candy Kalal, her Landusky goes back to the late trum between faith and sin, part of the headline “Another Montanan husband John, veterinarians from 1800s, when a heavy vein of gold the old Zortman jail still stands in Killed.” Big Timber and Malta and an un- town. The wooden cell block that was discovered by Pike Landusky “Because of these bitter feel- dertaker from the town of Chinook and Bob Ormond. Zortman would still stands is a popular attraction ings each carried a gun and a were among the people who came for people who like to have their take its name from Oliver “Pete” shooting scrape was expected by together to fi nd Zortman’s grave Zortman, a man who operated a picture taken with the small struc- those who knew them,” The Ga- and, with permission from his ture that was built sometime to- mill in the nearby Alder Gulch. zette reported. surviving family, dug it up, so that Landusky was named after Pike ward the end of the 19th century. Blood was fi nally spilled on a his bones could be moved back to “As history goes, people have Landusky, a man whose life met a Thursday afternoon at the town Zortman. violent end at the hands of an out- passed down that the last person of Landusky, then described as a Zortman’s old cemetery, with supposedly in it was a judge that law who would go on to run with mining camp. graves from the 19th century, is drank too much and was kind of Butch Cassidy’s gang. Before the fatal shot was fi red, among the other interesting places ornery with the town” said resident In one version of events, Har- Landusky drew his gun fi rst and to visit for the historically curious, Candy Kalal. “I’m not sure what he vey Logan, also known as Kid with vicious intent. It seemed as Kalal said. got in jail for but supposedly he was Curry, shot and killed Landusky if Kid Curry’s life had ended. The area’s fascinating past lin- the last o cial resident.” after beating him senseless in “He shoved his revolver close gers, and locals embrace it. A white That was decades ago, maybe a saloon as retribution for em- to Curry’s face and snapped,” church upon a hillside is one of the more than a century. But Kalal barrassment he su ered at The Gazette wrote of Landusky. fi rst things visitors to Zortman will remembers that story and many Landusky’s hands. “But the cartridge failed, Curry come across. It’s estimated to have In a 1994 article the Western fi red a second later and Landusky been built in 1910. A guestbook at Please see GOLD, Page 48 SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 45 places 5 to explore inspring

From the hills of the Terry Badlands visitors can enjoy views of the Yellowstone River valley. Stop at the Evelyn Cameron Gallery to view her photos of the area taken during the homesteading era. BRETT FRENCH, Billings Gazette Bitter Creek Wilderness Study Area in northeastern Montana includes native By BRETT FRENCH short grass prairie. [email protected] Tony Bynum photo The Bitter Creek area north of Glasgow o ers a s snow still relentlessly wide expanse of Bureau clings to the high coun- of Land Management and try, it’s a good time to ex- 1 state school trust lands plore portions of eastern linked together, including Montana. the 59,000-acre Bitter Creek AHere are ﬁ ve areas worthy of checking out in the spring when the Wilderness Study Area. The temperatures are cool, bugs mini- Montana Wilderness Associa- mal and spring greenery and ﬂ ow- tion is hosting a walk into the ers are breath-taking. One note of region on June 1 if you’re look- caution, check the weather report ing to explore with other folks. because you don’t want to be driv- Find more info on their website. ing some of eastern Montana’s back wildmontana.org roads after it rains. The mud can be a slippery mess.

46 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 Makoshika State Park is a good place 2 for a day trip, or CASEY PAGE, Gazette Sta overnight stay. The Makoshika State Park’s informative visitor badlands just outside of center has just been remodeled. Glendive o er hiking, camp- 3 ing, a disc golf course and a great Travel farther sought from Glendive to interpretive center. Buzzard Day, Medicine Rocks State Park to explore the an annual celebration that includes unique sandstone formations and check out the va- The Terry Badlands’ races, performances and a fun run, natural stone bridges riety of human etchings left in the rock. Zip into nearby are a unique feature. is scheduled for June 8. stateparks. Ekalaka and check out the museum. stateparks.mt.gov KAREN STEVENSON/ mt.gov

Medicine Rocks State Park. KURT WILSON/Missoulian Drive south out of Miles City to reach the Ashland Ranger Dis- trict, which includes rolling pine tree-covered hills in addition to a Forest Service rental cabin 5 and an old ﬁ re lookout tower that is one of the most unusual places to watch a Shakespeare in the Parks performance. www.visitmt.com

Just o Interstate 94 at the town of Ter- 4 ry are access points to the Terry Badlands. Natural bridges, broad views of the prairie and Yellowstone River valley are highlights of this stop. The BLM land is a wilderness study area. Gazette photo Find more details on the agency’s website: www.blm.gov Montana Shakespeare in the Parks performs on Poker Jim Butte in the Ashland Ranger District.

SPRING/SUMMER 2020 REDISCOVER MONTANA 47 MISSOURI RIVER COUNTRY CALENDAR OF EVENTS

CULBERTSON 10 and under and $5 for each additional fair activities, a music headliner will start MONSTER CAT ROUNDUP event. Events Include: 10K Run, 5K Run, 5K the event. Info at: Phillipscountyfair.com. July 18 ROOSEVELT COUNTY FAIR Walk, 1 Mile Run/Walk both competitive THE MILK RIVER GOSPEL and casual and 10 Mile Novice Bike Race. JAMBOREE Cash prizes pay from $100 to $1,500. August 12-15 All start at top of the Fort Peck Dam and June 6-28 Find out more at Montanacats.com. Culbertson’s free event of traditional finish at Kiwanis Park. Info at: Glasgow- Malta hosts this Gospel music event SUNRISE FESTIVAL OF THE ARTS family activities food, crafts, plants, 4-H chamber.net. organized through a nonprofit group and FFA livestock auction, fashion revue, July 11 GLASGOW founded in 2001. Info at: Mrgjambo- petting zoo, various vendors and fun run. ree.org. Visitors can enjoy browsing displays of Free noon meal Friday and Saturday. Info MONTANA GOVERNOR’S CUP artists and crafters from many states 8 a.m. at: Culbertsonmt.com/events. WALLEYE TOURNAMENT PLENTYWOOD – 4p.m. while taking in live music in scenic FRAZER Veterans Memorial Park. Purchase a Sun- July 9-11 SHERIDAN COUNTY FAIR rise Festival button and redeem discounts RED BOTTOM CELEBRATION Held at Fort Peck Lake, this 200- July 23-26 offered by local merchants and enter to win team, 2-day tournament is hosted by prizes, including the annual grand prize: a June 19-21 Glasgow Area Chamber of Commerce This traditional fair and PRCA rodeo piece of art from the featured artist of the in Plentywood has all the entertainment See the oldest powwow on the Fort & Agriculture. Info at: glasgowcham- year. Info at: Sidneymt.com. you’d expect. See details at Facebook/ Peck Reservation. The Red Bottom Cele- ber.net or (406) 228-2222. RICHLAND COUNTY FAIR & RODEO SheridanCountyFair. bration honors Native American culture Aug. 5-8 and traditions through dancing, food, MILK RIVER CATFISH CLASSIC POPLAR The Richland County Fair & Rodeo of- crafts, fellowship and more. Open to all. June 5-6 INDIAN DAYS fers home-style events and rodeo ac- Info at: Wolfpointchamber.com. The “grand daddy” of the Montana Sept.4-6 tion. Visit Sidneymt.com. FORT PECK Cats Tour is a nighttime event annually boasting a full 80-team field and more Poplar Indian Days is a Powwow celebrat- WOLF POINT FORT PECK SUMMER THEATRE than $10,000 in guaranteed cash and ing native culture and traditions through prizes. Slots fill fast, enter early. Info dancing, food, crafts, and fellowship at WOLF POINT WILD HORSE May 29 – Sept. 6 at: Montanacats.com. American Legion Park. All members of the STAMPEDE AND PARADE This century-old theater features three NORTHEAST MONTANA FAIR general public are welcome to participate July 9-11 plays this summer. “The Sunshine Boys” or spectate. Thursday is Camping day. Info This two-day celebration includes the an- runs May 29-June 14; “Seussical” happens July 27-Aug. 1 at: (406) 768-7623. nual stampede, rodeo, music and several June 19 - July 5; “Seussical Jr.” is June 27 - The Northeast Montana Fair has a car- SIDNEY parades. Info at: Wolfpointchamber.com. 18; “God Help Us” runs July 17; “Working” nival, PRCA Rodeo, Demolition Derby and shows July 10-26; “Sister Act” is July 31- WADOPANA POWWOW live music. It all happens at Valley County BAKKEN BEAT DOWN Aug. 16; and, “Wait Until Dark” shows Aug. Aug. 6-9 Fairgrounds in Glasgow. Info at: North- DEMOLITION DERBY 21 – Sept. 6. Info at: Fortpecktheare.org. eastmontanafair.com. See the oldest traditional powwow in June 19-10 LONGEST DAM RACE MALTA Montana. It allows elders and younger This multi-state demolition derby will generations to hold special ceremonies for June 20 2020 PHILLIPS COUNTY FAIR feature over 100 cars in this family, fun naming of individuals and honoring of fam- All events for The 24th Annual Longest filled weekend. The purse will be $50,000 ily members. For the young people, there July 30-Aug.2 Dam Race begin at Kiwanis Park in Fort and the grand prize will be $15,000. Info are run/walks and outdoor activities. Info Peck. Entry fee is $25, $10 for children age In addition to all the expected summer at: Facebook 2020 BEATDOWN. at: (406) 650-8724.

$125 million in gold by 1949 when years. in town is the Fourth of July, when Gold they were shut down. Mining was Threaded throughout the story a parade open to all takes off during From 45 active again in the area from 1979 of these towns and the land around the day. Later a community meal to 1998. them is the gold that has sent them takes place before fireworks begin, others. Kalal, who operates the Located among the Little Rock- through boom and bust. lasting anywhere from two to five Zortman Motel and Garage with ies in the Missouri River Breaks There are opportunities to hours, Kalal said. her husband, said she loves the Country, the area around Zortman pan the water for gold, including “People say they love us because stories visitors and locals tell and and Landusky is popular for ATV for customers at the motel. Kalal they said it’s like if they grew up in the pieces of the past that connect motorists. Reservoirs fit for fish- said they are willing to take in- the 50s and 60s,” she said. “They the town to its roots. ing are also nearby, along with a terested customers out to a claim said it reminds them of where they Part of her business is decorated hot springs and the Missouri Riv- where they can still find pieces of grew up, because everybody has with old photos and artifacts, some er, where people can fish for pad- gold. On Memorial Day the town time to talk, the pace is slower.” of them the remains of a museum dlefish, strange creatures with a of Zortman has The Big Dig, an For some people one visit isn’t that used to be in the mining town. paddle-like protrusion from their event sponsored by the Yellow- enough, according to Kalal. A wildfire damaged mining op- faces. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife stone Gold Club with a pot luck, “It’s the weirdest thing. By the erations in 1936. Mines in the area Service estimates they have lived an auction and gold panning. time they leave, they’re planning are estimated to have produced in North America for 65 million One of the liveliest times to be their next trip.” 48 REDISCOVER MONTANA SPRING/SUMMER 2020 We all need a little push sometimes…

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