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Bijapur, the Old Capital of the Adil Shahi Kings

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Bijapur, the Old Capital of the Adil Shahi Kings ^ BIJAPUR THE OLD CAPITAL OF THE ADIL SHAHI KINGS A GUIDE TO ITS RUINS WITH HISTORICAL OUTLINE BY HENRY COUSENS M.R.A.S. ARCHJEOLOOICAL SURVEY OF WESTERN INDIA. ^ubliBJ^jb initb i\t sanctio« of (io&eramenl. POONA: PRINTED AT THE ORPHANAGE PRESS. 1889. BOMBAY: THACKER <6 Co.. THOS, COOK & SON, PHILLIPS <fc Co. POONA : PHILLIPS & Co., ORPHANAGE PRESS. BIJAPUR : TRAVELLERS' BANGALA. PRICE Rs. 2. All rights reserved. " >^" " / ashed of Time for whom those temples rose. That prostrate by his hand in silence lie; His lips disdained the mystery to disclose, And, borne on swifter wing, he hurried by ! ' The broken columns whose '/ / ashed of Fame ; {Her hindling breath gives life to works sublime;) With downcast loohs of mingled grief and shame She heaved the uncertain sigh and followed Time. Wrapt in amazement der the mouldering pile, I saw Oblivion pass with giant stride; And lohile his visage wore Pride!s scornful smile, * Hap)ly thou hnoioest, then tell me, whose ' / cried, ' Whose these vast domes that e'e?i in ruin shine ' ? ' / reck not who^e^'^ , he said ; 'they now are mine.' PREFACE. There has hitherto existed no work on Bijapur and its ruins that could be used as a guidebook. The portfolio of the late James Fergusson, LL.D. and Col. Meadows Taylor has long been out of print, and since it was written much fresh information has been gathered that would necessitate a revised edition. The best account that has been published is that by Mr. H. F. Silcock, C.S. for the Bijapur District volume of the Bombay Gazetteer, but the price and bulk of the book, of which the account of the city forms but a part, precludes its use as a handbook. The want of some guidebook to Bijapur has been much felt, especially by tourists and visitors. Mr. Ebden,. the Collector of Bijapur, pointed this out to Government, and asked that Mr. Silcock should be requested, since he was wil- ling to undertake it, to re-arrange his Gazetteer account in the form of a guide. After this correspondence I visited Bijapur and spent a whole season there surveying its buildings in the ordinary course of my official duties, so that I had special op- portunities of becoming intimately acquainted with its monu- ments. It was my intention on proceeding to Bijapur to write a small handbook or guide to the city. I had not then heard of the arrangement with Mr. Silcock ; but when the latter knew of my intention through Mr. Ebden, he, finding his time very much occupied with his own official work, sug- gested that I should take it in hand. Later, in a letter to Gov- ment, Dr. Burgess, the Director General of Archaeological Sur- veys in India, also suggested that my notes, as then forwarded by him to Government, might form the foundation of such a guidebook as was necessary. The Government of Bombay Resolutions in connection with the matter are Nos. 1344 of 4th May 1887, 3873 of 23rd December 1887, and 4119 of 22nd M183706 IV PREFACE. November 1888. It is hoped the present little sketch will meet all the requirements of visitors. Drawings, photographs, and full notes have been made for a large work which will be published by Government in the series of volumes of the Archaeological Survey of Western India, and in which, those who wish to study the architecture and history of Bijapur, will find abundant materials. I have to thank Mr. E. J. Ebden, C. S. Collector of Bijapur, for much help I while was working there ; and certain dis- coveries he made in his leisure hours during last monsoon have added materially to the stock of information. Mr. Reinold, late executive Engineer of Bijapur, kindly allowed me to copy a good map of the city which he had in his office, and which, with additions, is now presented with this book. Mr. A. S. MacDonald Kitchie, who was for some time at Bijapur as Assistant Engineer, also gave me much assistance ; and his minute information respecting the buildings in and around the city saved me much time and trouble in hunting it up for myself. My thanks are due to him for this. The translation of the old Persian inscriptions by Mr. Rehatsek of Bombay has settled many doubtful points and added new facts. I have consulted James Fergusson and Meadows Taylor's Work, Taylor's Indian History, Mr. Silcock's Gazetteer account, Scott's Ferishta, Grant Duff's History of the Marathas, Ber- nier, Baldaeus, etc, but more especially, for the Historical Out- line, an old Persian manuscript history which I obtained at Bijapur, and which gives a very full and accurate account of the Adil Shahis. I have purposely avoided classing the buildings in groups in the description of them, for in reading the accounts of several mosques, or tombs, in succession, there would be much repeti- tion. In the text diacritical marks have not been used, but in the index, all doubtful names will be found accentuated. The Itinerary (p, 132) will help visitors to arrange their tours round the town with the least loss of time. A scale of PREFACE. V fares for public conveyances is appended, and will also be found useful. Shek Abdullah Bhangi, a Muhammadan lad, who lives in Bijapur, knows the city and its ruins well, and will be found about the best guide available. He does not, however, know English. The design impressed on the cover is from the large wrought iron screen that was dug up when excavations were made in the citadel. It is now framed and placed in the little station Church near the Gagan Mahal. H. C. Palitana, Feb. 1889. CONTENTS. Objects of Interest . General Description of the City The Walls . The Gates . The Waterworks . Bijapur Architecture The Gol Gumbaz . The Jama Masjid. The Methar Mahal The Asar Mahal The Taj Bauri . The Malik-i-Maidan The Haidar Burj . The Guns , Tomb of Ali I. Ibrahim Rauza Adaulat Mahal . Arash Mahal Anand Mahal Gagan Mahal SatManjIi . The Granary The Makka Masjid Old Mosque . Citadel Gateway , Andu Masjid Landa Qasab Gun and Bastion Shah Karim Muhammad Qadri's tomb Mustafa Khan's Mosque and Palace The Bari Kaman . CONTENTS Vlll Ali Shaliid Pir's Mosque 61 Ibrahim's Jama Masjid 62 Ali I. Rauza 63 Tomb of Pir Shek Hamid Qadir 63 The Janjiri or Malika Jehan Begam's Mosque . , . 65 Tombs of Khan Muhammad and Abdul Razaq Qadir . 65 Bukhara Masjid .68 Malik Sandal's tomb and Mosque 68 Zamrud Mosque . , 69 Chinch Diddi Mosque 69 TheChotaAsar 69 The Dekhani Idgah 70 Chand Bauri 70 Yaqut Dabuli's Mosque and Tomb 70 Amin Dargah , . 71 Afzal Khan's Cenotaph Mosque, and Palace .... 72 Nauraspur , . 73 BegamTank 75 Ibrahimpur Mosque 76 Ain-ul-Mulk's tomb , . 76 Tomb of Jehan Begam 76 Kumatgi , , . 76 Historical Outline 80 Yusaf Adil Shah 83 Ismail Adil Shah 87 Mallu Adil Shah 93 Ibrahim I., Adil Shah 93 Ali L, Adil Shah 99 Ibrahim II., Adil Shah : 106 Muhammad Adil Shah . 119 Ali II., AdU Shah 123 Sikandar Adil Shah 127 Itineeart . f 131 Index 140 Fares of Public Conveyances Two Maps OBJECTS OF INTEREST. Creneral description of the City.—Bijapur, once the capital of the Dekhan, is situated, as the crow flies, two hun- dred and forty miles south-east of Bombay. It is reached by the Southern Maratha Railway, from its junction with the Great Indian Peninsula Railway at Hotgi near Sholapur. The city is fifty-eight miles south of this junction. The journey from Hotgi is very uninteresting, the line traversing for the most part long stretches of dry, barren, stony soil with little vegetation, save in the valleys of the Bhima and its tributaries which are crossed en route. At the fortieth mile from Hotgi, the line crosses a ridge at the end of a range of low hills, from which high ground the first glimpse of Bijapur is obtained. Far away to the left a small dark square object is seen in bold relief against the sky on the southern horizon. This is the great Gol Gumbaz, the tomb of Sultan Muhammad, the largest building in the Dekhan. It is a very conspicious object for miles from the city on either side, and it has even been report- ed to have been seen from Bagalkot, fifty-six miles to the south, but this assertion needs to be taken cum grano sails. From this point, except for short intermissions when the line des- cends into the intervening valleys, it remains in sight, first on one side and then on the other as the line changes its direction, and grows larger and larger and more distinct as the distance between is shortened. Gradually other large buildings rise into view, among them being the Jama Masjid, the Sat Manjli, the Two Sisters, and the lofty gun tower of Haidar Khan, followino; each other aloncr the horizon in this order to the west of the Gol Gumbaz. Then further away still to the west, and on higher groundj beyond the city, stands the white tomb of Pir Amin, with the village of Dargapur clustered around it. A OBJECTS OF INTEREST, To the east of the Great Dome, and conspicuous among lesser buildings and ruins which dot the bare looking country with- out the walk, are the unfinished tomb of Jehan Begam and that of Ain-ul-Mulk with its well proportioned dome. As the city is reached it begins to unfold itself, and when the high ground just outside the walls to the north is attained a grand uninterrupted view of the whole town presents it- self.
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