The Two Capitals of the Dukedom from Modena to Ferrara
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PADOVA The two capitals of the Dukedom From Modena to Ferrara The dukedoms of Ferrara and BOLZANO Modena, united under the TRENTO MANTOVA rule of the Este family, have Rovigo for centuries shared war, peace F i u and splendour. This is a pro- m e P o found link that has never been broken, but retains a respect Ro for their differences, and to- u m e day allows the traveller to visit F i P o both along a thread that can- Bondeno Vigarano Pieve not be broken. From the his- San Felice Massa Santa sul Panaro Finalese Bianca Ferrara toric centre of Modena, along Villafranca Finale stretches of cycle path recently Staggia Emilia reclaimed from disused railway tracks, it crosses the Modenese Soliera Marrara lands and Lambrusco coun- Cento Bastiglia try to enter Ferrarese territory at Finale Emilia, the border RAVENNA town, and then follows the Modena course of the Panaro as far as Bondeno. Modena, Cattedrale 6 Technical notes Bologna Depart: Modena, Piazza Grande Arrive: Ferrara, Piazza Savonarola Modena: Via Scudari, 8 Ferrara Length: 84,520 km tel. 059 2032660 turismo.comune.modena.it Difficulty level: Suitable for everyone. Level route mainly along minor roads with long Ferrara: Castello Estense stretches on cycle paths. tel. 0532 299303 • www.ferrarainfo.com A p p e Railways NB. n n Milano/Bologna • Bologna/Ferrara Modena: i Suzzara/Ferrara. Bicycle transport available. Biblioteca Estense, Galleria Estense, Palazzo Du- n Please check timetables and availability. cale, Museo Civico Archeologico. o Info: 892021 • www.trenitalia.com 1:625.000 10 km Modena has Unesco World Heritage status for its Cathedral, the Torre Civica Tower and Piazza Grande square 26 27 6 From Modena to Ferrara From Modena to Ferrara 6 In Modena we leave bright Piazza Grande Further Information with its cathedral. We cross the city centre along roads and stretches of city cycle lanes, MODENA passing beside the Ducal Palace, now the Modena was built upon Roman Mutina Militaryy Academy, and in the inner suburbs and has the Via Emilia itself crossing the cannot avoid noticing the headquarters of centre and separating the mediaeval Maserati by the railway overpass. Staying city from the Estense part, which is on the cycle lane we leave Modena to the dominated by the bulk of the Palazzo north, along via Nonantolana following care- Ducale. Its cathedral is one of the high- fully the signs for the old railway path (Pista est expressions of the Romanesque ciclabile Ex Ferrovia Modena - Mirandola). This style: its facade recalls the cathedral in reclaimed cycle track is called the Modena- Ferrara, where we can read the influence Bastiglia route and occupies the track bed of Nicholaus, who may have been an ap- of an old railway, now completely asphalted The River Panaro prentice of the Wiligelmo who designed over, for the most part deep in the green of Modena’s cathedral. the hedges of the old railway and the fields We continue by way of San Pietro in Elda, A very ancient settlement, this was one of around. Staggia and Villafranca. In the latter we the principal outposts of the Este Dukedom, For the Estes, Modena became the capi- leave the road and turn onto a cycle track an obligatory staging post on the waterways tal of their dukedom after they lost Fer- Arriving in Bastiglia, which is the end of the made from the old railway from Modena to between Modena, Ferrara and Venice. Don’t rara in 1598. cycle track. Mirandola and Finale Emilia (closed in 1964), miss its Estense Castle. Modena’s fame is further increased by its We continue along minor roads between the as far as Medolla. Leaving the cycle track for renowned balsamic vinegar, lambrusco, villages of Sorbara and Bomporto, whose a few kilometres we cross San Felice sul Pa- tortellini, stuffed pig’s trotters and a names recall the famous wine: DOC Lambr- naro, which, despite the name, isn’t actually The Sfogliata or Torta degli Ebrei tradition of motor sport represented by usco di Sorbara red is produced right here on the river. After San Felice we go back onto (Jew’s Tart) is the local delicacy Ferrari at Maranello. in this area and there are many cantine and the cycle track as far as Finale Emilia. par excellence. It comes from the agricultural businesses. Jewish comminity in Finale, for whom it was a gastronomic glory, The Modena - Mirandola railway cycle track Finale Emilia, Estense Castle a savoury tart made of flour, butter and cheese. Traditionally it is eaten on November 2nd. After a visit to the little town, we climb up onto the embankment of the river Panaro which connects Finale Emilia and Bondeno: it’s 11 km of lightly trafficked road (residents and farm vehicles) from which we can admire the natural scenery of the river with its vegetation and the rich fauna that lives there. The river has marked this area for good as well as ill and its waters have carried the vessels of dukes, merchants and travellers. Arrival at Bondeno, where we turn on to the Burana cycle track for Ferrara (route n° 2, p.38). 28 29.