WESTERN TANZANIA 257 Tabora © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Katavi National Park Mahale Mountains National Park Ujiji Gombe Stream National Park Kigoma Lake Tanganyika
Tabora ( p270 ) Lake Tangan- Gombe Stream Gombe Stream ( p262 ) ( p265 ), or enjoying the mod- p265 ( ( p265 ) Kigoma ferry Ujiji Katavi National Park Mahale Mountains National Park ( p262 ), or sailing towards Zambia on ), or sailing towards Zambia on p262 ( Liemba National Park yika the nature in nature ( p259 ) or est creature comforts and urban outpost est creature ambience of ( p267 ) – the ultimate ‘get-away-from-it-all’ ‘get-away-from-it-all’ ) – the ultimate p267 ( destination
to Following the old caravan routes Mingling with the chimps at Kicking of back on the shores Experiencing the primeval rhythms of Visiting
HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS
Wherever you go, travel in western Tanzania is rugged, and you will need plenty of time. is rugged, and you will need plenty of time. Tanzania in western you go, travel Wherever Gombe Stream National Park – Jane Goodall’s world-renowned chimpanzee research sta- research chimpanzee – Jane Goodall’s world-renowned National Park Gombe Stream
and has few facilities. and has few train or truck. Outside of Kigoma, Tabora and the national parks, the region is seldom visited is seldom visited the region and the national parks, train or truck. Outside of Kigoma, Tabora There are few roads (none of them good), and often the only transport boat, roads (none of them good), and often are choices few are There welcome respite from dusty, bumpy roads, with some unforgettable sunset views. from dusty, bumpy roads, with some unforgettable welcome respite and useful transport route if you are heading to or from northernand useful transport you are if Zambia, and makes route a centre and a way station for several European expeditions. Lake Tanganyika itself is a scenic Lake Tanganyika expeditions. European and a way station for several centre routes, linking Lake Tanganyika with Bagamoyo and the sea, an important dhow-building linkingroutes, Lake Tanganyika village, but in its heyday it was the terminus of one of East Africa’s most important of East Africa’s of one it was the terminus village, but in its heyday caravan with a sense of adventure and imagination can visit tiny Ujiji. Now it’s a nondescript fishing can visit tiny Ujiji. Now it’s and imagination with a sense of adventure of vast floodplains trammelled by thousands of buffaloes, plus zebras, lions and more. Those Those lions and more. by thousands of buffaloes, plus zebras, of vast floodplains trammelled primate cousins. At Katavi National Park, you’ll be just a speck in the surrounding universe be just a speck in the surrounding universe you’ll Katavi At National Park, cousins. primate tion – and Mahale Mountains National Park offer excellent opportunities offer to get close to our tion – and Mahale National Park Mountains Tanzania’s most pristine settings, it’s a fascinating destination. most pristine settings, Tanzania’s here – unless you’re interested in chimpanzees. For this, and for watching wildlife in one of wildlife For this, and for watching in chimpanzees. interested – unless you’re here vast trackless expanses crossed only by the ageing Central Line train and little to draw you crossed only by the ageing Central vast trackless expanses The west is Tanzania’s rough, remote frontier land, with few tourists, minimal infrastructure, minimal infrastructure, tourists, frontier land, with few rough, remote west is Tanzania’s The Western Tanzania ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ
WESTERN TANZANIA 258 Kasoge To Bujumbura (30km) Bilenge Kasiha To Gitega Kasekela WESTERN TANZANIA Nyanza-Lac Ujiji (15km) OF CONGO DEM. REP.
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To Karonga River To Mwanza Chunya To Singida To Singida (300km); Rungwa To Iringa (820km) B6 (60km) Tukuyu (290km) (180km) (200km) Riv er WESTERN TANZANIA 259 and 8am- h Livingstone’s Livingstone’s , a flat-roofed , a flat-roofed train station 8am-5pm) (Jamhuri St; per hr h 026-260 4710, 0787-401613; Old Spartan twin-bed rooms Spartan twin-bed % (
(Lumumba St; per hr Tsh1000; St; per hr Tsh1000; (Lumumba , at the end of Boma Rd. The Boma Rd. The , at the end of (minibus) heading to Kipalapala (Jamhuri St) Has an ATM (accepts Visa). (Jamhuri St) Has an ATM 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) 8am-6pm Mon-Fri,9am-6pm Sat boma h (admission Tsh2000;
(Marketcheques; has St) Changes cash and travellers Note that many locals refer to Lumumba St to Lumumba locals refer that many Note Sleeping Sleeping CRDB Bank 5.30pm) Next and opposite the Mohammed to the library Trans office. Moravian Hostel d without bath- Mwanza Rd; s/d in new wing Tsh5000/8000, room in old wing Tsh3000) with mosquito nets in a quiet compound about 2km from the train station, and about walk from the bus station.10 minutes’ Follow Tsh1000; house – now a small museum – still holds a including letters, memorabilia, his some of any take here, To get diary and other items. dalla-dalla you at the turn-off them drop (to and have from the right, from Tabora), when coming foot. Taxis 2km further on it’s about where Once return. about Tsh6000 from town charge you’ll need to find the caretaker at the tembe, about 500m away and to let you in – he lives come bicycling down if he seeswill probably Otherwise,visitors. ask anyone in the village for ‘Livingstone’ and they’ll point you in the right direction. BUDGET Post Office Internet Café On-Line Tabora Sights & Activities buildings dating back to the a few are There German era, including the the old main attraction, however, is the deep maroon- and well-maintained coloured tembe Arabic-style house about 6km southwest of town in Kwihara, off the Kipalapala road. Livingstone stayed in 1872 that It was here and the being found by Stanleyafter in Ujiji, branches for Mwanza and Kigoma. It’s also It’s also and Kigoma. for Mwanza branches the Nyamwezi, of heartland the traditional tribal groups. If largest Tanzania’s one of probably by train, you’ll travelling you’re and it’s needspend at least a day here, to for a glimpse into more a few worth spending well away from Zanzibar and the a Tanzania safari circuits. northern extension). Rd (its easterly as Kazima Information NBC an ATM (Visa only). (Visa an ATM
Liemba •• Tabora WESTERN TANZANIA
026 Game reserves include Moyowosi, Kigosi,
Today Tabora is still an important is still an important Today Tabora By the turn of the 19th century Tabora had the 19th century Tabora By the turn of Roads are in generally poor condition, and poor in generally Roads are Gombe Stream ( p265 ) and Mahale Mountains ) and Mahale p265 ( Gombe Stream transport junction where the Central transport junction where Line Julius Nyerere attended school here. school attended Julius Nyerere educational centre – a reputation that it has – a reputation educational centre even today – and to retain somewhat managed also become an important mission station. It soon also gained prominence as a regional one may safely estimate the population…at the population…at estimate one may safely the Central After thousand people.’ five Line became the Tabora railway was constructed, East Africa. town in German largest waxing lyrical over the town, noted that it con- the town, noted waxing lyrical over and a thousand huts and tembes, tained ‘over slave trader Tippu Tib (see the boxed text, text, (see the boxed Tib trader Tippu slave passed European explorers ). A string of p261 through its portals, most notably Stanley and Stanley, Livingstone, and Burton and Speke. tribe, as well as headquarters of infamous of tribe, as well as headquarters van route connecting Lake Tanganyika with connecting Lake Tanganyika van route Bagamoyo and the sea. as Known in early days Mirambo, famed it was the domain of Kazeh, the Moon) of the Nyamwezi (People king of of numerous mango and flame trees – was numerous mango and flame trees of the old cara- along trading centre once a major % – a sleepy town basking in the shade Tabora TABORA TABORA the adventurous. still worth considering if you have plenty of plenty of if you have still worth considering the Along Lake Tanganyika, time. journeys can be long and rough.journeys can be long and The Central but good alternative, Line train was once a although unreliable, today it’s increasingly knowledge. Buses run along major routes, routes, Buses run along major knowledge. and to breakdowns prone although they’re for alternative a fine travel makes ferry self-drivers will need and good sup- a 4WD, equipment and mechanical time, spare plies of National Parks. There are airports at Kigoma and Tabora, and Tabora, airports at Kigoma and are There Mountains and Mahale in Katavi airstrips Getting There & Around Getting There & Around of Africa’s last great frontier destinations, with frontier Africa’s last great of watching. wildlife dry seasontop-notch Rukwa, although and are none River Ugalla tourism. for developed ( p267 ) offer the chance to observe the chance ) offer chimpan- p267 ( ) is one p270 ( zees while Katavi at close range, National Parks & Reserves Reserves Parks & National Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book WESTERN TANZANIA A reasonable choice ifyou’re travelling by
just five minutes’ walkfrom thebusstand. fanandaconvenientclean sheets, location 1st-storey placeare surprisinglydecent, with exterior, rooms atthis trast withthescruffy Tsh25,000)without bathroomTsh6000, withTV for about 200m. building andfollowthenextpath straight immediatelyturning right after thepolice railway policebuilding.Ignore theroad towardsthe head right, the trainstation, Hot-water buckets canbearranged. Exiting five minutes’ walkfromthetrainstation. in themainbuildingnextdoor–bothwithin toilets, andsomedoublessharingbathroom annexe, withamixof and‘sitting’ ‘standing’ butdecentdoublesinantrain, withtatty nexe Tsh6000, dwithoutbathroominmainbldgTsh4000) meals can be arranged. 50m furtheron.Breakfast costsTsh1000, and The Moravian Church compoundisabout at theSokolaMitumbaontoOldMwanzaRd. the market. turningright Continuestraight, the unpaved roadpastthemainentranceto 260 Uhuru St Mwanza
1 3 2
TABORA Rd Old Aposele GuestHouse Golden Eagle Mitumba 11 Soko la
Salamini St WESTERN TANZANIA ••Tabora
SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Hotel Wilca...... Golden Eagle...... Fama Hotel...... Aposele GuestHouse...... Wadudu's AutoSpares...... (see15) Old Boma...... Tabora On-Line...... NBC Bank...... CRDB Bank...... otOfc nentCf..... B2 Post OfficeInternetCafé......
Rufita St
AC Ujiji Rd Ujiji Nyamwezi St
Market ( % 17 026-260 4623; Jamhuri St;r15,000, 026-260 4623;Jamhuri
Ng'ambo St 19 2 13 8 10
( % 22
Hotel River Nile Kitunda Market St Rd 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 15 14 Kanyenye 026-260 4510;dinan- B1 B1 C1 D2 D3 B1 A1 B2 Aga KhanMosque Mosque Ijumaa Tanzania Gongoni St 21 Pride 18 EATING Tropicano...... Orion TaboraHotel...... (see12) Parlour...... Parlour...... Mayor's Hotel&IceCream Kaidee's Supermarket...... Duka laMaziwa...... White SakozInn...... Orion TaboraHotel...... Moravian Hostel...... Mayor's Hotel&IceCream A2 Kisingo Lodge......
Balewa St Library
Lumumba St B 20 1 Incon- 3
Manyema St
4
16 Jamhuri St Jamhuri
Church Catholic School St School Temple Hindu 9 Church Compound
18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Pentecostal Boma Rd Boma rest two twins. The ensuite rooms have onelarge bed,the then the first ontoSchool right St.Follow thentake thefirstfrom thebusstand, leftand Lodge better andthesimilar slightly TV, white buildingwithclean ensuite roomswith including are clean,decent-value several budget places, within a10-minute walkfromthebusstand, on Boma Rd. Rdtotheroundabout andgoleft low Station fol- on.Fromthe trainstation, tinue straight compound, turnleftonBomaRdandcon- Lumumba StpastthePentecostal church along continuestraight From thebusstand, the northeastern edge of townalongBoma Rd. nets), arestaurant andasmallgarden.It’sat Clean andquietrooms(allwithmosquito opposite thePentecostal church compound. side roadbranching outfromLumumbaSt rooms, andarestaurant. It’sjustoff thesmall Tsh12,000) with TV B2 A1 B1 B1 B1 A2 C2 A1 To Kigoma (350km) In thedustyKanyenye residential area, Fama Hotel Hotel Wilca Hotel
Itetemia Rd 7 Stadium
(r Tsh10,000-15,000, steTsh25,000) Boma Rd Boma St Stephen's Playing Field White Sakoz Inn Sakoz White Church To Livingstone'sTembe Kipalapala (10km);
& Kwihara(6km); ( Rungwa (280km) ( % Cleanandquiet,albeitfaded %
12 Coronation Rd Coronation Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels To Mwanza
Station Rd (330km) 026-260 4105;BomaRd;rTsh15,000) 026-260 4657;s/dTsh7000/8000, d TRANSPORT oamdTas...... B1 Mohammed Trans...... Taxi Stand...... Precision Air...... Bus &TaxiStand...... Playing Field 200m 0.1miles 0 0
Kazima Rd
(r Tsh10,000-15,000) Dar esSalaam(740km) Station To Dodoma(340km); Train Railway Police
Fundikira Rd Some MinorRoads To Airport 5 . Exit straight straight . Exit (5km) D not Depicted To Nzega(95km); Mwanza (350km) Singida (275km);
6 Kilimatinde Rd Kilimatinde Hill Rd 22 21 20 19 Kisingo Kisingo , ina B2 B1 A2
WESTERN TANZANIA 261 Mohammed breakfast, lunch & dinner) lunch & dinner) breakfast, 026-260 4818; Lumumba 026-260 4818; Lumumba 026-260 4369; cnr Boma & 026-260 4369; cnr h %
( % ( (Jamhuri St) Next Wadudu’s
has its own office and depar- (Milk Shop) Sells yogurt fresh and milk. Precision Air (School St; snacks & light meals from Tsh500; meals from Tsh500; St; snacks & light (School Similar to Mayor’s, but quieter. It’s quieter. but to Mayor’s, Similar (Lumumba St) (Lumumba
Tropicano until 7pm) For self-caterers: To Kigoma, the only direct public transport To Kigoma, the only direct Orion Tabora Hotel Orion Tabora Mohammed Trans runs between Tabora Trans runs between Mohammed Tabora stop at Tabora daily en route from Dar es daily en route stop at Tabora and Mwanza arrive by about 5am, and 5am, and by about and Mwanza arrive by Tabora trains from Dar es Salaam reach between Kigoma and about 9pm. Travelling Mwanza, you will need to spend the day in your also reconfirm you should where Tabora, onward reservation. If you’re heading east, you can disembark heading east, you can disembark If you’re serviced is also at Nzega (which daily by a bus on to Singida, 4WDs), and then catch in Nzega. though this means an overnight and between Tabora It’s possible to drive Mbeya (4WD only), but it’s a long, albeit in is servicedpart highly scenic, slog; the route to four busesby three weekly during the dry season. by train. is TRAIN is the main Central Line junction for Tabora trains north to Mwanza, west to Kigoma and in- and fare For schedule south to Mpanda. . Trains from Mpanda p361 formation, see about 3am, trains from Kigoma Tabora reach Getting There & Away Getting There & Away AIR Flights with St) Kigoma, to Salaam to Kigoma (Tsh152,500 es Salaam). The airport is to Dar Tsh329,000 town. of about 5km south BUS bus stand is along the exten- The ‘new’ Tabora St, past NBC bank. Market sion of Trans 7½ hours). at 6am and 10am (Tsh10,000, h Tanzania. Pride next to from Tsh5000; Station Rds; meals – meals and well-prepared portions Large in the dining There’s excellent value. overall indoors. and area outside bar-restaurant Kaidee’s Supermarket Duka la Maziwa Auto Spares. Auto to the side Creamery), It’s unsignposted (ask for the Tabora St. Lumumba off of the Ijumaa Mosque and just ture point, opposite the library. point, opposite ture daily and Mwanza, departing from Tabora Samosas and
(snacks from Tsh500, (snacks from Tsh500, •• Tabora WESTERN TANZANIA The old railway hotel The old railway hotel 026-260 4369; cnr Boma & Station 026-260 4369; cnr Boma & Station %
( breakfast, lunch & dinner) breakfast, h
TIPPU TIB TIPPU TIB (Hamed bin Mohamed el Murjebi), Tib Tippu most infamous slave one of East Africa’s born around 1830 in Zanzibar traders, was as the son of a wealthy plantation owner Tib While still young, Tippu from Tabora. began to assist his father with trade and area an extensive soon came to dominate well that stretched around Lake Tanganyika Democratic Republic of into present-day 19th century he By the late Congo (Zaïre). had trading stations strung out across east- assisted Tib Tippu ern Congo and Tanzania. Livingstone and Stanley with their expedi- tions, and in 1887 Stanley persuaded him region of the eastern to become governor of the Congo, although the undertaking left his Tib In 1890 Tippu was short-lived. he base in the Congo for Zanzibar, where died in 1905.
NBC on Lumumba St bank, with a branch Trans bus office. next to the Mohammed serve is behind The main restaurant ice cream. meals Tsh1500; meals Tsh1500; other snacks and local meals, plus juice and soft- yogurt and (sometimes) fresh bottles of Eating Eating Mayor’s Hotel & Ice Cream Parlour still has lots of atmosphere. If you’re travelling travelling If you’re atmosphere. still has lots of around to is usually someone by train, there arrivals. predawn let you in for net, and there’s also a good restaurant and a restaurant also a good net, and there’s built was originally The hotel bar. well-stocked and by a German baron as a hunting lodge, – most spacious and all looking out onto the – most spacious and all TVsurrounding gardens – have and mosquito good value – a lovely and unexpected respite respite and unexpected good value – a lovely All rooms in the region. for anyone travelling s/d from Tsh60,000/72,000) very and provides has been nicely restored Orion Tabora Hotel Orion Tabora ste s/d Tsh36,000/48,000, Rds; camping per person Tsh6000, MIDRANGE MIDRANGE one block further on and about two blocks two blocks on and about one block further the left. in to a block to the left. Kisingo Lodge is about is about left. Kisingo Lodge a block to the this up past the Aga Khan the take mosque, past the Aga this up right go Rd, onto Kitunda paved major first straight 300m past the signposted about for half Sakoz is about – White Hotel Nile River Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book WESTERN TANZANIA upheavals innearbyDemocraticRepublicof way terminus. Inthewake of thepastdecades’ Linerail- own withthebuildingof theCentral owed byUjiji tothesouth,onlycomingintoits For much of Kigoma’shistoryitwasovershad- National Park ifyou’re travelling onbyboat. Stream NationalPark, orMahale Mountains a convenient pointforvisitstoGombe starting Linetrainand across thecountryonCentral Tanganyika, theendof thelineifyou’ve slogged Tanzanianthe mostimportant portonLake dition tobeingaregional Kigomaisalso capital, inthedistance.Inad- to theCongomountains town inatropicalwaterside withviews setting Kigoma isascrappybutagreeable lake shore % KIGOMA there’s someoneatyourhotel tolet you in. ask thedriver towaituntilyou’re sure that centre). Ifarrivinginthemiddleof the night, alltrainarrivals(Tsh1500meet tothetown agonally opposite WaduduAutoSpares. Taxis the cornerof Jamhuri RdandNyamweziSt,di- There andon are bythebusstation stands taxi Getting Around 262 Tanganyika Lake Tanganyika KIGOMA Lake 028 Beach Hotel Mamboleo Pharmacy...... INFORMATION TCCIA (ChamberofCommerce) Burundi Consulate...... Post Office&TTCL...... NBC Bank...... CRDB Bank...... Congo (Zaïre)Consulate...... Baby Come'n'Call...... Aqua Lodge...... Clinic...... Kigoma InternationalHealth Immigration Office...... ETR AZNA • ioa WESTERN TANZANIA ••Kigoma Jakobsen’s GuestHouse&Campsites(5km) Internet Jakobsen’s (Mwamahunga)Beach(5km); To KigomaHilltopHotel(2km); Chimpanzee Safaris(2km); Café...... 23 1 Gombe StreamNationalPark(2km) Generator Tanesco To Kibirizi(2km);LakeTaxis to Shree Hindu K S Ami Port a t y a a n l
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16 d 13 17 NMB Bank 18 9 11 Market 14 19 24 21 Church Catholic Resort (1km) To Gibbs Mwanga TCCIA (Chamber of Commerce) Internet Café ofCommerce)Internet TCCIA (Chamber Baby Come&Call ACCESSINTERNET on themainroad towards Ujiji. on theMV formalities fortravellers departingforZambia on Wednesdaytotake care of immigration An immigrationofficerisposted attheport IMMIGRATION OFFICE Congo (Zaïre) Burundi See p337 details. forvisa Information organisations workingin the region. there are stillalarge numberof international aid While manyrefugees have sincereturned home, around Kigomabecameamajor refugee centre. RwandaandBurundi,thearea Congo (Zaïre), 1a-p Sun) 10am-1pm (Lumumba St;perhrTsh2000; h 3pm Mon-Fri) CONSULATES Area 16 15 14 13 12 8am-7pm Mon-Sat)Justupfromthetrain station. B1 D2 B2 B1 6 7 ( % Liemba 028-280 2865; Kakolwa Ave;028-280 2865;Kakolwa (Kaya Rd; (Kaya (Lumumba St;perhrTsh2000;
Ferry Port...... Bero BusStand...... Website Pub...... Kigoma Bakery...... lysRsarn...... B2 Ally's Restaurant...... TRANSPORT EATING Transport Stand...... Precision Air...... Sun City...... Khalphan's......
. The immigration office is . Theimmigrationoffice U
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R d h 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) 15 400m 0.2miles 0 0 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, lonelyplanet.com Heri Hospital(110km); Station Bero Petrol 22 Uvinza (140km) h To Ujiji(6km); Kibondo (245km) To Airport(3km); Kasulu (95km); 10am- 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17
B1 B1 A1 D2 B2 B1 B2 B1 WESTERN TANZANIA 263 stations. No-frills No-frills 028-280 4978; 028-280 4978; This comfort- % ( 028-280 2388; s/ste
In the Mwanga In the Mwanga dalla-dalla % (www.kigomabeach.com; ( 028-280 4500; s/d from 028-280 4500; s/d from
% (
(Ujiji Rd; r Tsh6000) Just off Lumumba St, and about Lumumba St, and about Just off
In a tiny alley just opposite the In a tiny alley just opposite Jakobsen’s Guest House Mjimwema Lodge Kibo Boys Guest House New Mapinduzi Guest House and the quiet, cliff-top It’s is lovely. perch spot good value, and a wonderful overall shore and for enjoying the lake for a respite on foot down the minutes Just five nature. and part hillside, just up from the beach the same two guest houseof complex, are end of town, this place has noisy but clean town, this place has noisy end of rooms, all with TVsingle-bed and mosquito Kibo Social no food. The adjoining net. There’s ad- hosts a disco on Saturday night (free Hall which a room in the hotel, mission if you have any sleep is just as well, as you wouldn’t get ). p264 Pub ( anyway). Next door is Website per additional accommodation per family per night Tsh40,000, electricity per hr Tsh3500) adult Tsh15,000, guesthouse well out able private is located Jakobsen’s an escarpment above town on of out in rented ), and is generally left Beach ( beds and seven double – three its entirety twins divided among several rooms – rather than by room, though space permitting, indi- are as well. There available vidual rooms are two bathrooms two well-equipped kitchens, Corporation building, and within five min- and within five Corporation building, the train and walk of utes’ fan, but clean basic and without Rooms are The location is con- and with mosquito net. shoestring the better and it’s one of venient no food. options. There’s s without bathroom Tsh5000) Tsh12,000/17,000, with fan and mosquito net, except for the has no bathroom, which single with shared turning fan. Follow the dirt road uphill after Lumumba St at NMB bank and before off Kibo Boys. reaching Tsh12,000/20,000) one block in from NMB bank at the northern Sleeping Sleeping BUDGET Mwanga Hotel the train sta- 3km north of – about area the bus park, 500m of about tion, but within an early bus to if you have and convenient – try or other points north Mwanza, Burundi the Kibondo– 400m before about this hotel, rooms and hot junction, with no-frills Kasulu on request. buckets Tsh5000/7000) National Housing and yellow white large Lumumba St; s/d Tsh8000/10,000, without bathroom without bathroom St; s/d Tsh8000/10,000, Lumumba rooms around a small cement courtyard, all rooms around a small cement , which , which Jakobsen’s Jakobsen’s 8am-6pm 028-280 4940) (Ujiji Rd, h % •• Kigoma WESTERN TANZANIA (MAF; (MAF; is worth a stroll, as is worth a stroll, as 028-280 4437; www.mbalim (admission Tsh4000) at the roundabout near at the roundabout near
(Lumumba Rd; (Lumumba % ( market (Kiezya Rd) Operator-assisted calls 028-280 2408) On the western edge of 028-280 2408) On the western at the base of Lumumba St. at the base of for shade, the water is bilhar- the water for shade, Mission-run hours’ about two hospital % ( dalla-dalla , which is 2km north of town and best town and best is 2km north of , which
(Train Station Roundabout) Has an ATM (Visa (Train only). Station Roundabout) Has an ATM bandas train station (Lumumba St) Changes cash; has an ATM (Visa only). St) Changes cash; has an ATM (Lumumba
The best place for relaxing is is The best place for relaxing town opposite the Tanesco generator. town opposite the Tanesco drive from Kigoma near the Burundi border. drive Kigoma from near the Burundi bali.com) At Kigoma Hilltop Hotel. bali.com) At Kigoma Hilltop and postal services. and postal Mwanga) For minor medical issues. medical Mwanga) For minor May be able to help with emergency medical evacuations. May emergency medical be able to help with Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm the train station and ask the driver to drop to drop the train station ask the driver and it’s 30 to 40 you at the turn-off, from where on foot. further minutes signposted. Via public transport, catch a a Via public transport, catch signposted. Katonga ing right at the small fork until the signpost, ing right at the small fork until the signpost, it’s about 3km further uphill and from where few people are around – is idyllic. There’s no no around – is idyllic. There’s people are few west from town along food or drink. Head keep- the road past Kigoma Hilltop Hotel, zia-free (see p367) and the overall setting – setting – (see p367) and the overall zia-free especially if you visit during the week when about 5km southwest of town. There are a a are town. There about 5km southwest of few is actually two small, beautiful coves reached reached is actually two small, beautiful coves hillside section of down a vegetated via steps (Mwamahunga) Beach (Mwamahunga) Beach dating to the German colonial era, including the far end of Kibirizi, downhill from the Tanapa Kibirizi, downhill from the Tanapa far end of various buildings are In town, there office. Kibirizi in the early morning when the fishing visited activity is at the boats pull in. The main fishing Kigoma’s lively Kigoma’s lively Sights & Activities Sights & Activities of and colourful fishing village is the large Chimpanzee Safaris Aqua Lodge als and visits to Gombe Stream and Mahale and Mahale Stream als and visits to Gombe Parks. National Mountains TRAVEL AGENCIES AGENCIES TRAVEL boat rent- the following organise Both of Post Office & TTCL POST & TELEPHONE POST & TELEPHONE CRDB NBC MONEY MONEY Mission Fellowship Aviation Mamboleo Pharmacy Kigoma International Health Clinic MEDICAL SERVICES SERVICES MEDICAL Heri Hospital Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book WESTERN TANZANIA newish placeintheKieyzaarea, signposted also hasachicken orfishbiryanispecialon St; rTsh12,000-20,000) taurant taurant is planned. davels withmosquitonettingandTV. Ares- withsimpleroomsinattached ron- House, ing infromNMBbankpastKiboBoysGuest upmarket onanescarp- hasaprimesetting ice cream; diagonallyopposite Ally’sRestaurant. Bakery Kigoma Khalphan’s following: the stocked shopsnearthe market, including the reaching andlook for KiboBoysGuestHouse meals andmusic.Turnleft(uphill)just before addition to local meals. h frills Sundays andfresh juices,orthemore no- are beans) andotherlocalmeals,thebestplaces For inexpensive Eating &Drinking Stream andKatavi National Parks. also runscampsinMahale Gombe Mountains, and aslowrestaurant. management Thesame not-always-clean pool(nonresidents Tsh5000) a faded cottages withsmallfridge andTV, ment overlooking thelake, withsmall,slightly ais s/dfromUS$60/80;.com; www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; Tsh5000. about withmealsfor rant (askforoutdoorseating) tions. There’s ashady porch, andarestau- theydon’tquitethough live uptoexpecta- beds) are reasonable valuefortheprice, ing thelake –androoms(mosthave twin The locationispeaceful–onahilloverlook- from thepostoffice road(Tsh2000 inataxi). Lodge Hill Chimpanzee MIDRANGE own food from town. bringallyourcamping andtheguesthouse, views.Forboth isthebeach withsunset these and water supply,andjustdownhillfrom Tsh10,000) withablutions,agrill,lanterns ing peradultTsh6000, tent rental pernight attractive shaded,grassycampsites (camp- 264 Gibbs Resort For self-catering, there are well- several For self-catering, Hotel Hilltop Kigoma Website Pub Website until 7pm) Sun City makuti ETR AZNA • ioa WESTERN TANZANIA ••Kigoma Ally’s Restaurant ) Kigoma’sonlyhotel approaching (off Lumumba St)OppositePrecision Air. , with samosas andothersnacksin , withsamosas (Lumumba St;mealsTsh1500-3000) (thatched) roofing.
(off Lumumba St) (Lumumba St) Alsosellsfresh juicesand ( % Reached viatheroadlead- wali maharagwe 028-280 4272;rTsh45,000; (Lumumba St;mealsTsh1000-2500;
( %
( % 0754-651319; offLumumba 028-280 4437;kht@raha Cold drinks, light Colddrinks,light (riceand , which a ) A the towncentre. totheairportcosts Ataxi nect villages alongthelake shore asfar northas withpeopleandproduce,thatcon- piled high are taxis boats, Lake small,woodenmotorised Lake Taxis sign ‘ToKigomaPort,Managed byAPO’. to theleftof Watch thetrainstation. forthe port, reached byfollowingthedirtlanedown also take passengers –departfromtheAmi Republic of –manyof Congo(Zaïre) which Tanganyikathe oldLake Hotel. Beach departs fromthemainportarea, justsouthof other lake-shore towns,see p358 . The for Mahale NationalPark) Mountains and (alsocalledMugambo; viaLagosa (Zambia) MV For scheduling andpriceinformationforthe Ferries BOAT Tsh4000. Kigoma. to stopping inTabora enroute fromDar Kigoma andDaresSalaam(Tsh368,000), Air Precision bank, Just aroundthecornerfromNBC AIR Getting There&Away road inthe Mwanga area. signpostedthe bookingoffices alongthemain junction). Buyyour tickets here, oratoneof shortly before reaching theKasulu–Kibondo white, unmarked ontheleft petrolstation (Coming fromKigoma,lookfor the large, the Ujiji petrolstation. Rdjustbefore Bero onthesmallroad turningleftoff bus stand Victoria, departuresnear Lake are fromthe Bukoba, Mwanzaandotherdestinations departures,distance includingtoBiharamulo, improving. although rough, Foralllong- Roads fromKigomainalldirections are BUS for about2km(Tsh2000 in a taxi). office, turnleftatthetopandcontinuestraight alternatively followtheroaduphillpastpost To get here, followtherailwaytracksnorth,or Kibirizi village, about2.5kmnorthof Kigoma. butat The lake don’tstopatKigomaitself, taxis but offer noshade orothercreature comforts. Stream National Park. Theyare inexpensive, the Burundiborder,includingastopatGombe The airportisabout 5kmsoutheastof Cargo ferriesCargo toBurundiandDemocratic Liemba ( % between KigomaandMpulungu between 028-280 4720) flies daily between fliesdailybetween lonelyplanet.com Liemba
WESTERN TANZANIA 265 driver will make sure you get get you sure make will driver run between the two towns run between two towns the dalla-dalla Prior to Livingstone, Ujiji enjoyed promi- Ujiji Prior to Livingstone, The Gombe Stream area was gazetted as was gazetted area The Gombe Stream Despite its distinguished past, little remains past, little remains its distinguished Despite a game reserve re- in 1943. In 1960 British to begin a study Goodall arrived searcher Jane and in 1968 Gombe was chimpanzees, wild of Goodall’s study as a national park. designated fifth decade. is now in its Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating basic guest- very a couple of are There houses along the main road, and eateries for baths and bucket rooms with bare-bones about Tsh3000. Getting There & Away central Kigoma; 8km south of is about Ujiji dalla-dallas day (Tsh200). throughout the GOMBE STREAM NATIONAL PARK Gombe only 52 sq km, of With an area smallest national park. is Tanzania’s Stream study the longest-running of It’s also the site animal population in the world any wild of it’s a in primates, and, for those interested fascinating place. today of Ujiji’s former significance, and many former significance, and many Ujiji’s today of underwhelming. But people find the village from Kigoma and it’s easy enough to reach a stop it well worth its long history makes Livingstone From the in the area. if you’re about 500m compound, you can continue beach to Ujiji’s further along the same street used power tools are and small dhow port. No in building the boats and construction meth- ago. generations the same as they were ods are are Once the rooms at the information centre an ideal base anyone for built, it would make off the main track and in getting interested life. village gaining insights into local museum will be moved here. The site is about is about site The here. museum will be moved from Kigoma road coming the main off 300m and – just ask for Livingstone and signposted the right place. off at the (a main settlementnence as the region in the status the railway terminus only after it lost dhow- Kigoma), and as a major was built at also Speke Burton and building centre. setting out to in 1858 before stopped here Thanks to its posi- Lake Tanganyika. explore route the old caravan of tion as a terminus various Swahili still shows to the coast, Ujiji building style. traits, primarily in local •• Ujiji WESTERN TANZANIA (admission free, donation donation (admission free,
housing a few pictures pictures housing a few museum 9am-5.30pm) to Bero bus stand, Mwanga and h
The road via Uvinza to Mpanda is in vari- to Mpanda is in The road via Uvinza
To Mwanza, there are two buses daily, two buses daily, are there To Mwanza, construction next door. Once finished, the the Once finished, construction next door. rabilia. An information centre, including including An information centre, rabilia. rooms, is under and hostel a restaurant by local artists of Livingstone scenes, plus Livingstone scenes, plus by local artists of memo- and other Livingstone some letters appreciated; which are said to have been grafted from the been from the grafted said to have are which that shaded the two men dur- original tree also a tiny and There’s ing their encounter. rather neglected a plaque set in a walled compound near a a plaque set in a walled compound near a two mango trees, small garden. Nearby are where Stanley’s encounter with Livingstone Livingstone with Stanley’s encounter where by is commemorated occurred allegedly Morton Stanley uttered his famously cas- his Morton Stanley uttered The site ual ‘Dr Livingstone, I presume?’ UJIJI UJIJI Africa’s oldest market one of Ujiji, Tiny as lore earned its place in travel villages, Henry explorer-journalist the spot where Bero bus stand charge Tsh2000. charge Bero bus stand Ujiji run throughout the day, departing from Ujiji the transport stand just uphill from the train and between the town centre station. Taxis Dalla-dallas see p361 . Getting Around ageing and these days unreliable Central and these ageing unreliable days or Mwanza, Line train from Dodoma, Tabora TRAIN TRAIN on the and price information For schedule sporadic trucks. ous stages of repair, ranging from quite decent ranging from quite repair, of ous stages public no direct bad, though there’s to very little traffic transport and very other than the ferry near Mwanza. the ferry stretch from Nyakanazi to Mwanza is paved is paved from Nyakanazi to Mwanza stretch no need to wait for the whole way, and there’s driving – to travel to Mwanza via Nyakanazi to driving – to travel as the Shinyanga, and junction, Kahama significantly longer distance wise,significantly longer it can – especially if you’re sometimes be just as fast Mwanza-bound bus as far as Biharamulo and bus as far as Biharamulo Mwanza-bound Although transport from there. onward get two to three direct buses weekly at departing direct two to three a as fast to take just 5am, though it’s often 15 hours), with most going via Lusahunga, 15 hours), crossing. To and the Busisi ferry Biharamulo are there to 15 hours), 12 Bukoba (Tsh15,000, departing from Kigoma at 5am (Tsh15,000, (Tsh15,000, at 5am from Kigoma departing Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book WESTERN TANZANIA 280 2586;[email protected]) directly the through Kigomatravelthrough agents (see p263 ) or bookings canbemade here. book Otherwise, be abletopointout theway.Accommodation village. It’sunsignposted, butanyoneshould from thefootbridge attheentrance tothe of thebeach, andabouta10-minute walk There’s inKibirizi,atthefarend aparkoffice permitted in the park. per day.Children are aged underseven not 24-hour entry.GuidescostUS$20pergroup you’ll mostlikely becharged onlyforone via lake andonedayof taxi) chimp tracking, assumingyouarrive/depart (necessary, stay the forest –which meansthatforatwo-night only charge youforthetimespend in to interpret theguidelines generously and at Kasekela, butinpractice,parkofficials tend nically applyfromwhenyoulandonthebeach years per24hours are US$100/20.Theytech- Entry fees peradult/child to15 aged seven two days at Gombe. interested inthechimpanzees, allowatleast pigs andavarietyof birdlife. Ifyou’re really monkeys, bushbucks,vervet baboons, bush intheparkincludecolobus and you maysee lake orhike inGombe’sforest. Otheranimals ing thechimps, it’spossibletoswiminthe to within5mof them.Inadditiontoobserv- are wellhabituated andyoucansometimesget 266 Information Gombe Stream’s approximately 100chimps Gombe Stream canbevisited year-round. if parkofficialsgetwindofasniffleortheflu,youwon’tbeallowedtoenter.) remember thatchimpanzees are susceptibletohumandiseases,sodon’tvisitifyou’re ill.(And networks are entrenched andit’sanuphillbattlethatrequires constantvigilance. other chimpsliving. the While there hardtohaltillegaltrafficking, are numerousgroupsworking With few exceptions,chimpscannotbereintroduced tothewildinanarea where there are chimps thatare recaptured there fromillegaltraffickers, isalsotheproblemofreintegration. The resultall nearbyadultsmustbekilled. ismanydeadchimpsandorphans. Foryoung Yet,commercial zoos,commandhighpricesontheblackmarket. tocapture ababychimpanzee, trafficking. Chimpanzees, whichare coveted aspets,soughtformedicalresearch andwanted for in GombeStream NationalPark MountainsNationalPark. andinaroundMahale human populationpressures have reduced theseareas, andtodaythechimpsare foundmainly and intoBurundi,Rwanda,UgandaDemocraticRepublicofCongo(Zaïre). Deforestation and along muchofthewestern andRukwaregions borderofthecountry,throughoutKigoma The naturalhabitatofTanzania’s chimpanzees CHIMPANZEES ETR AZNA • ob temNtoa ak WESTERN TANZANIA ••GombeStream NationalPark If you’re MountainsNationalParks, consideringvisitingeitherGombeStream orMahale also In additiontodeforestation, themainthreat toTanzania’s remaining chimppopulationsisillegal senior parkwarden . Park headquar- ( %
028- (Pan troglodytesschweinfurthii) of thepark, thisisGombe’sonlyupmarket the beach atMitumbain the northernpart Sleeping &Eating flashes aren’t permitted. intheforest;propriate equipment foruse visit. you this iswherewhen todisembark you’llneed the beach nearthecentre of thepark,and activities are southof here atKasekela, on the northernendof thepark.Alltourism ters are on the beach atMitumbaValley at camp, with ensuite tents andashady, wa- s/dall-inclusiveUS$645/1090) .chimpanzeesafaris.com; need from Kigoma. below), bringwhatever provisions youwill you’re attheluxurytented staying camp(see until therestaurant is completed orunless Otherwise, fish orotherlocalmealswithstaff. and it’spossibletoarrange inexpensive grilled headquarters drinksandafew selling basics, storing food.There’s asmallshop atpark for container the baboons,andbringametal anyway. Ifyoudocamp,don’tunderestimate save youanymoneyboons, anditdoesn’t ofommend itbecause thedanger fromba- don’trec- on thebeach, parkstaff although park. Youcanalsocamp(perperson US$20) Kasekela, onthebeach nearthecentre of the in theparkresthouse (perperson US$20)at Meanwhile, there are simpleroomswithnets once finishedwillalsoincludearestaurant. The parkhostel iscurrently beingrebuilt, and Gombe LuxuryTented Camp For photos, bring high-speed filmorap- For photos,bringhigh-speed Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (
onceextended % 028-280 4437;www On WESTERN TANZANIA
267 ) and ) and bandas bandas Kigoma Hilltop Hotel in Kigoma, which can also help you help you can also in Kigoma, which 028-280 4437; [email protected]; www.chimpanzeesafaris Mahale Mountainsa na- as was gazetted Mahale The park is open year-round, although dur- The park is open year-round, human influenza of Following an outbreak Park headquarters, where fees are paid, paid, are fees where headquarters, Park Mahale has been the site of an ongoing an ongoing has been of site the Mahale lions keeping them company (although the (although company them lions keeping the seldom seen). lions are % wear surgical-style masks while trekking, and while trekking, masks wear surgical-style closer Each than 10m to the chimps. not to get – cur- group’s viewing time is also limited to one hour per day – and the maxi- rently mum group size is six. No eating or drinking the chimps. within sight of is permitted are at Bilenge in the park’s northwestern in the park’s northwestern at Bilenge are Kasiha are here 10km south of About corner. and camp site the park of (site camps). (with two top-end beach Kangwena closed sectionThe park’s eastern is currently to tourists, although trail development is planned. too muddy to do much ing the rains it gets close. camps There walking, and the private walking (and boating no roads in Mahale; are the only ways to get are along the shoreline) around. Bring high-speed film or appropri- flashes equipment for useate in the forest; aren’t permitted. in 2006, chimpanzees virus among Mahale’s to all visitors require park officials currently 1600 sq km. The park’s highest1600 sq km. The park’s peak is Mt in 1939. climbed Nkungwe (2462m), first Information aged US$80/30 per adult/child are Entry fees . p77 see fees, For camping 10 to 16 years. permit- aren’t under seven years Children Camping park and in Mahale. ted through can be booked ( .com) if you’ll be ar- contact park headquarters US$20 are riving independently. Guide fees per group. Japanese-sponsored primate research project project research primate Japanese-sponsored Africa the Kyoto University since 1965, when ExpeditionPrimatological research initiated and the chimpanzee communities that here, well ha- study are been focal points of have size While Mahale’s to people. bituated time (and mean that it can take and terrain sweaty walking) and steep some strenuous, almost everyone who to find the chimps, comes away days here spends at least a few well rewarded. around of an area tional park in 1980 with
028-280 % (
Kigoma Hilltop Hotel Aqua Lodge Mahale •• National Park Mountains TANZANIA WESTERN
in Kigoma for US$175 return per boat in Kigoma for US$175 return for US$655 return per boat for up to 20 for US$655 return 028-280 4437; [email protected]; www.chimpanzeesafaris Faster boats (taking about 1½ hours) can boats (taking 1½ hours) about Faster Alternatively, you can arrange with local arrange you can Alternatively,
% MAHALE MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK MAHALE .com) antelopes, buffaloes,antelopes, zebras and even some primarily a chimpanzee sanctuary, home to sanctuary,chimpanzee home to primarily a with roan relatives, our primate about 700 of Stream National Park to the north, Mahale is is to the north, Mahale National Park Stream Tanganyika shoreline about 130km south of about 130km south of shoreline Tanganyika Mahale Kigoma, with the misty and rugged Gombe Like running down its centre. range that you’re likely to have it all almost to it all almost to to have likely that you’re most isolated – Tanzania’s yourself. Mahale along the Lake national park – stretches beaches backed by lushly forested moun- forested by lushly backed beaches and in- the most challenging tains, some of on the continent watching triguing wildlife unrivalled remoteness such and a setting of It’s difficult to imagine a more idyllic com- difficult to imagine a more It’s white-sand bination: clear, blue waters, ( 2408) and fee, night stopover be organised throughbe organised that there are no lake taxis, in an effort no lake to are that there get business. fishermen to charter a boat – and you’ll be be- fishermen to charter at do so when you arrive to with offers sieged Kibirizi. Expect Tsh80,000 to pay from about to pay You may have return. to Tsh100,000 not be should an advance for petrol (which the total price), but than one-third of more ar- until you have don’t pay the full amount It’s common practice back in Kigoma. rived try to convince you to for local boat owners at about 7am (which means you’ll need to you’ll need means to at about 7am (which by spend two nights the park if travelling at public transport). noon and 2pm (Tsh2000, three hours). hours). three noon and 2pm (Tsh2000, Returning, it passesGombe (Kasekela) by p264 ) Monday to Saturday between about ) Monday to Saturday between about p264 Gombe Stream is about 20km north of of is about 20km north Gombe Stream Lake Tanganyika. of the shores Kigoma on by boat – the park is to reach The only way taxi.lake At least one or lake either charter taxi to the park departs from Kibirizi (see terside location. It’s run by Kigoma Hilltop Hilltop run by Kigoma It’s location. terside and transport offers which in Kigoma, Hotel accommodation deals. & Away Getting There lonelyplanet.com passengers, plus a US$50 per night stopover plus a US$50 per nightpassengers, stopover night onwards. from the secondfee for up to eight passengers, plus a US$82 per for up to eight passengers, WESTERN TANZANIA This place,runby KigomaHilltopHotel, has www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/dall-inclusiveUS$635/1070) www.chimpanzeesafaris.com; for those onmorefor those moderate budgets. It’s on good-value alternative toGreystoke Mahale doubletents, andmakessix comfortable a meals anddrinks being available. south), buthastheadvantage of local-style atKasiha,tracking (which starts 10kmtothe this resthouse. It’slessconvenient forchimp headquarters atBilenge, at it’spossibletostay Kigoma. from no mealsorcanteen, sobringwhatyouneed option. There are ensuite bucket baths, but Kasiha –andthemostconvenient budget quite decent, park-rundouble Bandas Tree Mango Sleeping 268 Park Resthouse Park Resthouse Nkungwe LuxuryTentedNkungwe Camp & Spa six hours), or (in stages) to Katavi andMpanda. six hours),or(instages)toKatavi –usually4WDsortruckstoSumbawanga(four there Mpanda, whilefromKipili istransport to and(better)simple, cleanroomsandmeals. Ikola,youcangettransport FrombothKalema set onahilltheedgeoftown,andsmallStBernard’sMonastery &GuestHouse,with being handedover totheWhite Fathers isthesite mission, in1889.Kipili ofanoldBenedictine ofwhichwere isanoldCatholic originally missionstation,parts before aBelgianKalema fort can helpyouorganise alocalboattoexplore shore thesurroundinglake andnearbyrivers. At about Tsh3000) [email protected]) InIkola,there– thevillageandmissionstationofKipili. isthesimple south south,and– further about15kmfurther (Karema), Ikola, theoldmissionstationofKalema MountainsNationalPark), ofnotesettlements) andLagosa(forMahale includethevillageof ports the windandwaves. the wholesceneislitupbyglowofdozens lamps,wavingprecariously oftinykerosene in ferry, withboatownersandfoodvendors alljostlingforcustomfromthepassengers. At night so ateachplacewhere the its waydowntheshoreline. asitmakes at astringofsmallports There are few jetties, docking refugees. The bestwaytogetafeel forlocallife istosetoffontheMV trade alongtheoldcaravanroutes, whiletodayitsshores bustlewithcross-bordertradersand clearwaters. inthelake’s snorkelling forsomewonderful make cichlids,manyofwhicharefish. Mostnotableare foundnowhere itscolourful else,andwhich the planetand,thankstoitsageandecological isolation,ishometoanexceptionalvarietyof lake. At somewhere on betweennineand12millionyearsold,itisalsooneoftheoldestlakes TanganyikaLake istheworld’slongest(670km)andsecond-deepest(over 1400m)fresh-water LAKE TANGANYIKA its own plunge pool, and a lake cruiser for dayandovernightits ownplungepool,andalake charters. kayak anddive andoverland NationalPark. safarisalongthelake, kayak campingtripstoKatavi when thisbookispublished.Inadditiontoreasonably pricedaccommodation,itwilloffer overnight ETR AZNA • aaeMutisNtoa ak WESTERN TANZANIA MountainsNationalPark ••Mahale About 3.5kmoffshore ontinyLupita fromKipili Islandisthevery exclusive Besides Kigoma (thelargestBesides Kigoma townontheTanzanian shore), lake Ujiji(oneoftheoldestlake-shore During thelate wasamajorconduitforslaves 18thandearly19thcenturiesthelake and Also immediately offshore is fromKipili
(www.firelightexpeditions.com; s/dall-inclusiveUS$1100/1725) , with buckets ofhotwater, withbuckets onrequest andfilling,inexpensive meals. The owners (per personUS$20)
(per personUS$20) , alovely placewhichwillbeopeningrightabout andgenuinelyeco-friendly Liemba
( % Basic, but Basic, Near park 028-280 4437; bandas pullsin,it’smetbydozens ofsmallboatsracingouttothe at Ntanga IslandRetreat
Safaris Arusha canbearranged through park boundaryat Sitolo. Charter from flights shoreline. Theairstrip isjustnorthof the pressive aerialviewsof Tanganyika theLake Flying intoMahale treats youtosomeim- AIR Getting There&Away upmarket travel agencies or operators.safari chimpanzee-tracking walks. Bookthrough Children under12years are notpermitted on bandas Kangwena beach, withsix over-the-top tented An exclusive on campinastunningsetting person all-inclusivefromUS$750; north of Greystoke Mahale. the beach northof Kangwena andabout 1km Greystoke Mahale Greystoke
withsolarpowerandbushshowers. ( % , withjustadozen suites, eachwith 028-280 4437; www.mbalimbali.com)
(www.awesomeafricansafaris.com; (www.awesomeafricansafaris.com; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Zanzibar GuestHouse
(www.nomad-tanzania.com; per Liemba, Lupita IslandResort h mid-May–mid-March) whichcallsin Chimpanzee Chimpanzee
(r in
WESTERN TANZANIA 269 For some- (r Tsh3500)
028-282 0459; s/d from 028-282 0459; s/d from % (
No-frills rooms with mosquito rooms with mosquito No-frills 025 Guests of Lupita Island Resort & Spa ( op- Lupita Resort & Spa ( Island Guests of Super City Hotel Uvinza is about two hours southeast of southeast of hours two is about Uvinza Tsh4000/6000) about 1.5km from the nets and a restaurant near the roundabout (ask for town centre, to It’s convenient ‘Super City Ghorofani’). the train station, and buses and to Katavi and few supplies available en route, so stock en route, supplies available and few setting off. up before MPANDA % small and somewhat scruffy town is of This mainly as a starting point for visits to interest It’s also the terminus National Park. Katavi the Central of Line railway and a a branch of heading inland useful junction town if you’re Lake Tanganyika. from Sleeping & Eating Marangu Guest House & Bar option, with small rooms and noisy but cheap and It’s near the market baths. bucket shared line office. behind the Sumry bus permits can be arranged at the entry gate. For at the entry gate. permits can be arranged guesthouses several no-frills are lodging, there town centre. in the Kigoma via the Central There’s Line train. the town, public transport to/from no regular Kigoma is gradually but the road towards by traversed being upgraded, and is regularly daily (Tsh6000, trucks and at least one vehicle it’s also From Uvinza, hours). about three from to Kasulu, a vehicle possible to get daily minibuses Kigoma to are there where Trucks also run sporadically be- (Tsh1500). and Mpanda, especially dur- tween Uvinza one day). ing the dry season Tsh7000, (about is little traffic on this road However, there ditional night.ditional also has Hotel Kigoma Hilltop cuts travel pricier speedboat, which a faster, than half. time by more boat exclusive the resort’s on ) can travel posite to Mahale. from Lupita Island UVINZA on the map Uvinza has kept Salt production for at least several centuries, and the town is salt-producing major Tanzania’s still one of a highlight is If you find yourself here, areas. salt has been factory, which visiting the local travellers so few As running since the 1920s. pass this way, staff see will be happy to you; thing inexpensive in the town centre, try this in the town centre, thing inexpensive
Liemba Aqua Lodge , all of whom , all of Kigoma Hilltop •• Uvinza WESTERN TANZANIA office in Kigoma can office (www.nomad-tanzania.com)
passes Lagosa sometime
(www.flycat.com) Liemba reaches Lagosa reaches about 2am or in Kigomafor US$900 per boat Liemba Nomad SafarisNomad nd the 028-280 4437; [email protected]; www.chimpanzee Liemba % (
Flycatcher SafarisFlycatcher 028-280 2408) The other option is to charter a boat through The other option is to charter % ( for up to eight people, including two nights ad- each plus US$82 for waiting at Mahale, persons, plus US$50 per night stop over charge charge over plus US$50 per night stop persons, from the second night onwards, or either Kigoma Hilltop Hotel for US$2985 re- either Kigoma Hilltop Hotel for up to 20 turn per boat (about 10 hours) between late Saturday nightbetween and early Sunday late or 4am. morning around 3am something better. Coming from Mpulungu something better. (Zambia) the boat up anyway, you may be able to negotiate to negotiate boat up anyway, you may be able help with the radio call. The park boat costs 15 people, US$50 per boat (for up to about one way), although if the park is sending a Hotel safaris.com) to radio park headquarters in advance from to radio park headquarters a pick-up. Kigoma and arrange 3am on Thursday morning. (If you do decide 3am on Thursday a basic guesthouse in Lagosato try this, there’s dawn.) It’s better you can wait until where two hours further south, but not the best idea further south, two hours as the the north of the park (1st/2nd/economy class the north of from Kigoma). 10 hours US$25/20/15, about From Lagosa, to continue with it’s possible about small local boats to park headquarters, stops at Lagosa (also called Mugambo), to beat the satisfyingly adventurous edge – and edge beat the satisfyingly adventurous jour- scenery – of lake-shore the impressive The MV via ferry. neying to Mahale Despite the lake’s temperamental choppiness temperamental choppiness the lake’s Despite the journey, it’s hard to and the length of BOAT BOAT nights. All flights also stop at Katavi en route, en route, nights. All flights also stop at Katavi as a visited thus frequently and the parks are combination package. Tuesday and Friday), so fly-in guests will gen- Tuesday and Friday), so erally need three to plan on a minimum stay of All of these operators fly on twice-weekly fly on twice-weekly these operators All of or rotations and Thursday, (either Monday Arusha–Mahale–Arusha, and about US$600 and about Arusha–Mahale–Arusha, via Katavi. Mahale one way from Ruaha to to Mahale from Ruaha and Katavi. Expect to and Katavi. from Ruaha to Mahale seat per per person pay from US$1000 for other passengers on a space-available basis. on a space-available other passengers ) also has twice-weekly charters p47 ( Foxtreks operate camps in the park and have twice- in the park and have camps operate weekly flights for primarily to/from Arusha to take willing althoughtheir guests, some are Kigoma, Kigoma, and Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book WESTERN TANZANIA its enormous floodplain,the vast,grassyex- experience. Katavi’s predominant feature is country, itisahigh-adventure, rugged safari more populardestinationselsewhere in the areas. Fortravellers analternative seeking to and oneof itsmostunspoiledwilderness is Tanzania’s third-largest nationalpark Katavi, about35kmsouthwestof Mpanda, KATAVI NATIONALPARK continue ontoTabora and wait there. andlittletodo,mosttravellersguesthouses the connectionatKaliua, butasthere are few day inTabora orKaliua. Youcanwaitfor tospendatleasta Mpanda, youwillneed you’re headingtoKigomaorMwanzafrom schedule andfare information,see p361 . If connects MpandawithTabora viaKaliua. For There isa branch Linethat of theCentral TRAIN MV usually timedtocoincidewitharrivalsof the area), there are sporadic trucks,which are TanganyikaIkola (themainLake portsinthis allowatleast the dryseason; 12 hours. and Kigomafairlyregularly, especiallyduring trucksplytheroutealthough towardsUvinza bus heading southwards. has arrived, whenthere’s alwaysatleastone Thursday andSaturday,justafter thetrain find transportisaroundmiddayonTuesday, Tsh12,000, hours). Thebesttimeto seven Sitalike andontoSumbawanga(about (watch forSumrybusline)and4WDsto City Hotel andcatch oneof thedailybuses infrontofthe maintransportstand Super town centre. Abetter option istohead of Marangu inthe &Bar GuestHouse Park; Tsh1500, 45minutes) frominfront Mpanda andSitalike (forKatavi National Dalla-dallas BUS Getting There&Away en suite rooms with showers. side of theroundabout,withreasonable-value Diagonally opposite SuperCityontheother building. multistorey end, thentake thefirst leftandlookforthe followthetracksto From thetrainstation, Sumbawanga have outthefront. theirstand 270 From MpandasouthwesttoKalema and The trainisthebestoptiontoKigoma, Highway Guesthouse Highway Liemba ETR AZNA • aaiNtoa ak WESTERN TANZANIA NationalPark ••Katavi ferry. run several times dailybetween runseveral
( % 025-282 0001;rTsh7000) fw visitors. few attractions,theparkreceiveslicised relatively least untilrecently, itscompletely under-pub- of itsremotesq km.Because locationand,at area covering 12,500 aconservation passes encom- contiguous RukwaGameReserve, to about 4500sqkmand,together withthe an area of 2253sqkm.In1997itwasextended rhythms ofing totheprimeval the wild. heart of andpuls- Africa,vast,uncontainable it’s hardnottofeel thatyou’ve reached the remaining pools andstreams. times Atthese andmanymoregiraffes make theirwaytothe elephants,lions,zebras, herds of buffaloes, when theriver andlakes dryup andhuge chance of spotting both. one of thefew placeswhere youhave a decent together withRuahaNationalPark, Katavi is areas antelopes; roanandsable forsighting of brushandwoodland,which are thebest the park,floodplainsyieldtovasttracts in Katavi thusfar).Inthewestandcentre of (over 400 bird specieshave identified been hippos, plus crocodiles andawealthof birds lakes, which supporthuge populationsof by theKatuma River seasonal andseveral ofsection thepark.Theplainsare broken nal (western) section ofnal (western) section thepark, it’shighly required tobringaguidealonginthe origi- the parkwithyour ownvehicle. While it’snot plus guidefees. It’salsopossibleto drive in kilometre withaminimum charge of US$100, are Rates US$1per aren’t bystaff. beingused hicles, andparkvehicles canbehired ifthey town. from Vodacom worksfromapointabout 2km networkincludesSitalike andThe Celtel of Sitalike, onthepark’s northernedge. is justoff themainroad,about 1.5kmsouth entry-fee paymentsandotherinformation, 0213; [email protected]) July toOctober. peak months forwildlife watching fromlate June andNovember orDecember,withthe betweenbe visited duringthedryseason, p77. see fees, five to15years. Forinformationoncamping Entry fees are US$20/5peradult/child aged Information panses ofpanses which cover much of thenorthern Katavi wasoriginallygazetted in1974with Katavi isopenyear-round, butshould only The park comes to life in the dry season, The parkcomestolife inthedryseason, Wildlife viewingispermitted inopen ve- Park headquarters Park headquarters , forhutbookings, lonelyplanet.com ( % 025-282 WESTERN TANZANIA 271 May-Feb) This six-tent May-Feb) h 022-213 0501; www % (www.awsomeafricansafaris. ( (per person US$20) Just a short (www.flycat.com) This long- 025 mid-May–mid-Feb) Under the same ownership as Under mid-May–mid-Feb) Other recommendations: com; [email protected]; com; [email protected]; plateau at about 1800m altitude in the far in the far 1800m altitude at about plateau the country. While corner of southwestern a des- the town to make little reason there’s Sumbawanga is a useful tination in itself, between travelling stopping point if you’re Zambia National Park. or Mbeya and Katavi BUS BUS Any bus running between Mpanda and Sumbawanga can drop you at the park gate, to visit the park. a vehicle you can hire where it’s an easy (about 1km) walk Alternatively, bus stand,between and the Sitalike the gate is daily transport to/from there from where sometimes pos- it’s Alternatively, Mpanda. the park vehicles sible to find a lift with one of to Mpanda for supplies. that come frequently driving, the closest petrol stations are If you’re and Sumbawanga. in Mpanda SUMBAWANGA % The peppy and surprisingly pleasant capital Ufipa is set on the fertile region the Rukwa of Riverside Guesthouse walk away from Katavi Hippo Garden Hotel and a good this area. budget alternative in Camp Bateleur Tented Getting There & Away AIR flights in for charter airstrips are There post and at Ikuu ranger Mpanda, Sitalike Lake Chada. near ambience with the bare minimum of amenities. of minimum bare with the ambience seven has just The camp each tents, double light- and solar-powered with bush shower through upmarket be booked ing, can only travel agencies. Katume Katavi Camp Flycatcher Safaris .chimpanzeesafaris.com; s/d all-inclusive US$585/970; h fairly spacious and ), with six p264 Kigoma Hilltop Hotel ( low stilts. well-appointed tents on Kataviestablished Swiss-run outfit offers itineraries based and can arrange combina- out of its own temporary camp, tion itineraries taking in Katavi, Mahale Mountains and as well as other destina- Rubondo Island National Parks, top end. Prices midrange to are tions in Tanzania. place is scheduled to open near Lakeplace is scheduled to open near Katavi by the time safaristhis book is published. Balloon and combination Katavi-Lake itineraries planned. are Tanganyika
– ban- This bandas bandas The newest 025-282 0393, 023- •• Sumbawanga WESTERN TANZANIA % Jun-Feb) (
0784-237422; www.tanzania h Jun-Oct & mid-Dec–mid-Mar)
(www.firelightexpeditions.com; (www.firelightexpeditions.com; % (www.nomad-tanzania.com; s/d (www.nomad-tanzania.com;
(
h In Sitalike village just outside the park village In Sitalike
, bring all food and drink with you. , bring all food and drink Katavi Hippo Garden Hotel
Chada Katavi Camp Palahala Luxury Camp Katavi Wildlife Camp Walking safaris are permitted with an with an permitted Walking safaris are floodplains, this place mixes a classic safari a classic floodplains, this place mixes Set in a prime location overlooking the Chada Set in a prime location overlooking tented suites and a riverside setting, and the and a riverside suites tented as Lupitasame Island Resort & management Spa ( p268 ). per person all-inclusive US$595; camps, with six spacious upmarket Katavi’s of also runs camps in Ruaha and Mikumi, it offers also runs camps in Ruaha and Mikumi, it offers combination itineraries. some excellent plains, top-notch guides and excellent cuisine. plains, top-notch ), which p47 African Safaris ( Owned by Foxes near Ikuu ranger post offers great value, with great post offers near Ikuu ranger the flood- overlooking tents spacious en suite safaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife drivessafaris.info; s/d full board plus wildlife US$450/700) comfortable, rustic camp in a prime setting drop at Mpanda train station costs US$80. drop at Mpanda train station here to go into Katavi (US$150 per day). A (US$150 to go into Katavi here stand, is good value, especially consider- which forms the park bordering its location. The river just hippos pod of a resident and there’s here vehicle a rental out the front. You can arrange along the river about 1km from park head- along the river bus and an easy walk from the Sitalike quarters Mikumi ( p280 ). It has self-contained p280 Mikumi ( with twins –some with double bed and others the same management as Genesisthe same in management Motel camp site, as well as double-bedded as well as double-bedded camp site, and camp sites US$30). For (per person das Katavi Campsite near Lake Katavi, just west of just west of Campsite near Lake Katavi, Katavi 2km road. About the Sumbawanga–Mpanda is also a public there from park headquarters near Lake Chada; Ikuu Campsite at Ikuu Lake Chada; and Lake post northwest of ranger There are several the park, in public camp sites are There Chada Campsite including the well-situated Sleeping Sleeping anything bright, very contrasting or very or very contrasting anything bright, very fly bites. against tsetsedark), as protection along thick, long-sleevedalong thick, shirts and trousers, in khaki (avoid or other drab shades preferably armed ranger. For any safaris in Katavi, bring For any safaris in Katavi, armed ranger. recommended. In the newer (eastern) section newer (eastern) In the recommended. rough only and you’ll bush tracks are there ranger. armed need an Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels your stay Book all-inclusive US$730/960; gate, this is a good budget choice, and under choice, this is a good budget gate, 262 0461, 0784-120498; camping per person US$5, r per person262 0461, 0784-120498; camping US$30) WESTERN TANZANIA Tsh10,000) without bathroomTsh4000) inexpensive mealsandacentrallocationjust good restaurant. It’sabout 2kmfromtown Nyerere Rd;rTsh20,000) from townoff Nyerere Rd and signposted. rooms, andmealsavailable. It’sabout 3km Tsh15,000/20,000) ithasa Saturday nights loud disco. southeast of OnFridayand thebusstand. Regional Block area. quiet compoundalongtheroadto costs extra. It’s fairlycentrallylocated ina clean roomsandinexpensive meals.Breakfast Tsh12,000/20,000) Nyerere Rd;standards/dTsh7000/14,000, executive s/d of UpendoViewHotel. There’s no food. off KiweluRdandsouthfrom thebusstand, worth thesplurge. It’sjustafew minute’s walk Zanzibar GuestHouse Sleeping &Eating Mbizi Forest Hotel. canbearranged at the MbiziForest Reserve sion inZimba. Guidesforexcursions towards mis- can usuallybearranged withtheCatholic way backuptheescarpment.Accommodation tomakeMbizi range, you’llneed your though pointforhikinginthe also apossiblestarting public transportfromSumbawanga. Zimbais byrelatively regularescarpment andserved Zimba, downtheeastern slopesof theMbizi Rukwaisviathesmallvillageaccess toLake of time onyourhands.Themoststraightforward inSumbawangawithextra you findyourself both of which make potential excursions if the east,seldom-visited Mbizimountains, Rukwa,andto ment, isthevast,shallowLake of forests and grasslands. montane mixtureis hometoanecologicallyimportant and western branches of theGreat RiftValley, theeasternaround 2000m,cradledbetween The surroundingUfipa plateau, which liesat refreshingly cool,especiallyintheevenings. Mpanda orMbeya),andtheclimate canbe (there’s nothingtorivalituntilyouget to The market isagoodplaceforstockingup 272 Forestway CountryClub Forestway Hotel Mbizi Forest Centre Moravian Conference ofEast Sumbawanga,belowtheescarp- Upendo View Hotel Upendo View ETR AZNA • aag aab al WESTERN TANZANIA Falls &Kalambo ••Kasanga Reasonablylarge andcleanrooms, Simplebutgood-value ensuite Agoodplacewithspare but Large,cleanrooms anda
( ( Theensuite roomsare % %
025-280 0010;dTsh7000, r (
025-280 2242; Kiwelu Rd;r 025-280 2242;Kiwelu % ( % 025-280 2746;s/d ( % 028-280 2800/2412; 025-280 2853/4; major Stone Age finds. archaeologically, asthesiteimportant of some single-dropwaterfall,highest thearea isalso Falls. InadditiontobeingAfrica’ssecond- are theKalamboescarpment intoZambia Plunging about212mdowntheRiftValley FALLS KALAMBO & KASANGA by about 4.30pm. coming back,thelastvehicle usuallyleaves pick-up dailyleaving fromnearthemarket; Rukwa),there’sZimba (forLake atleastone pay theparkfees ifyouare justintransit.To National Park, to itisnotnecessary although (Tsh13,000). Katavi through Theroadpasses onthemainroadfromabout7am station are alsodaily4WDsdepartingfromthepetrol 1pm (Tsh12,000, hours). There sixtoseven againat 10am, andduringthedryseason departfromSumbawangadailyatbuses hours, bookinadvance).ToMpanda,Sumry and 7am(Tsh10,000 toTsh13,000, seven departing ineach direction 5.30am between and SumbawangaviaTunduma(forZambia), Mbeya dailybetween Sumry hastwobuses Getting There&Away (Tsh2000 fromthe inataxi bus stand). area, pasttheMoravian Conference Centre along Nyerere RdintheRegionalBlock t disembark. to towake youintimeing, sobesttoask staff but theboatpullsoutwithoutmuch warn- onboard duringthistime,allowed tostay often remains atthedockuntildawn.You’re theboat and6am,although midnight tween arrivalscanbeanywherehours). These be- the MV Sumbawanga andKasanga, andabusmeets arrange a guide. ofsection Kasanga, where youcanalso direction. each falls andthenwalkforaboutfourhours in Kasanga, toget you’llneed alifttowardsthe Tanzania ontheMV Tanganyika andthelast(orfirst) stopin 120km southwestof SumbawangaonLake reach thefallsfromKasanga, which isabout viaMbala. It’salsopossibleto Zambia, Trucks journeysporadicallybetween The mainaccessroute tothefallsisfrom There intheMuzei isabasicguesthouse Liemba Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels arrivals(Tsh4000, uptonine Liemba (see (see p358 ). From © Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com 273 WESTERN TANZANIA
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