Notes on the South-Western Area of "German" East Africa Author(s): Owen Letcher Source: The Geographical Journal, Vol. 51, No. 3 (Mar., 1918), pp. 164-172 Published by: geographicalj Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1779377 Accessed: 23-06-2016 09:06 UTC

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This content downloaded from 132.236.27.111 on Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:06:43 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 164 NOTES ON THE the main trunk railway through Siberia, and it naturally makes it impossible without very large capital to develop these resources. But the policy of the Government before the revolution was to develop rail way s as rapidly as pos? sible ; even now construction is going on in many parts of that country; and there is every probability that after the war the attention of miners all over the world will be attracted to Siberia. The political outlook at the present moment can be regarded as only a passing phase. A country that has a population of 200,000,000, who have settled and formed an empire of 8,500,000 square miles, is not destined to perish or disintegrate. Can there be a better proof of capacity for civilization than that this people has evolved a language which for power, for subtlety, for complete command over the finest shades of meaning stands in a class by itself? It is only the innate goodness and the almost childishly trusting sim- plicity of the Russian masses which could have made them temporarily the prey of such a medley of adventurers, traitors, and sentimental anarchists as are in power at Petrograd to-day. But Petrograd is not Russia. The settle? ment of to-day's crisis will, to my mind, be brought about by Nature rather than by any political happenings. The people are suffering terribly from the want of food, accentuated by the breakdown of the raiiways ; but the suffer- ings which they are undergoing now, and will go through this winter, will probably bring back the masses to common sense and reason. The present Government is artificial, and has obtained power by controlling the technical equipment of the country?the raiiways, posts, and telegraphs?and by pan- dering to the lowest instincts of the workers. But these poor people are seeing reason through their sufferings, and I believe that before this winter is past Russia will be herself again. Her future is secure, and what a future it is des? tined to be ! Few men have the remotest idea of the immensity of her wealth and resources which await development, more especially in Siberia and the Altai. The President : I ask you to join in a very hearty vote of thanks to the lecturer for the most interesting account of his travels in Siberia, and I take this opportunity also of thanking those members of the Society who have so usefully contributed to the discussion.

NOTES ON THE SOUTH-WESTERN AREA OF "GERMAN" EAST AFRICA

Owen Letcher

THE two territory parts, approximately hitherto known equal as German in size, East by Africathe Central is divided Railway, into which extends right across the colony from Dar-es-Salaam on the coast to Kigoma Bay on the eastern shores of Lake Tanganyika, a distance of 778 miles. This railway, completed a few months before the outbreak of the war, is the main economic artery of "German" East Africa. It was con? structed for the purposes of military strategy and trade development; and there can be but little doubt that one of its intended functions was the invasion of the Congo Belge, on which Germany has always east envious

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eyes. But the whole of this line is now under the control of ourselves and our Belgian Allies; and with the removal of Prussian militarism from East Africa, this great engineering enterprise will reap a much richer harvest of trade than would ever have been possible under its makers' policy. This Central Railway and the Tanga-Moshi line to the north are the two great enterprises launched by the Germans in their East African possession. No other lines have been constructed, and the vast southern portion of the dependency is without any modern or effective means of transport. The entire absence of railways or any other means of transport except native porters was constantly being brought home to the members of Brigadier-General Northey's Force, who crossed the German border from Nyasaland and Northern Rhodesia in May 1916, and who by a series of carefully prepared operations drove the enemy down on to the unhealthy Mahenge Flats, and in the face of enormous difficulties effected a junction with the army of General Smuts at Iringa in October 1916. Horses are practically unknown in this portion of Africa. Here and there the main thoroughfares are crossed by fly belts which mean death in most instances to domesticated animals. Accordingly native porterage and ox transport were the only means of carrying supplies, munitions, and general equip- ment up to the fighting columns; until when the advance had been pushed well into the enemy's country, roads suitable for petrol traffic were con? structed, and a fleet of light cars arrived from South Africa. While the lack of enterprise on the part of the Germans with regard to transport was continually evident to us, the potential wealth, the beauty, and the wonderful variety of the country were made more manifest each day. It is not a little surprising that such a thorough and ambitious people as the Germans have comparatively neglected this area of over 200,000 square miles south of the Central Railway. They seem to have concentrated all their energy and activity on the development of the northern and north-eastern portions of their East African possessions. After seeing something of both the northern and southern areas I think that the north has enjoyed advantages to the unjustified detriment of the south. The Uhehe and Usangu provinces?particularly the former? have millions of acres of magnificent cattle country. Neu Langenburg is the centre of an intensely fertile agricultural dis? trict, whose pastoral value is only slightly less than that of Uhehe. All along the Nyasaland and Rhodesian frontiers the valleys of the Songwe and its tributaries produce cereals, particularly Rapoko and Chamanga (mealies or Indian corn) in extraordinary profusion; and the natives possess very large herds of fat and well-matured cattle. Moreover, there are unmistakable evidences of mineral wealth. Iron has been worked by the natives living on the German side of the Nyasaland?Northern Rhodesian frontier from time immemorial. Coal-measures have been

This content downloaded from 132.236.27.111 on Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:06:43 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms 166 NOTES ON THE located near the north-west end of Nyasa, and also close to the port of Wiedhafen on the eastern side of the lake. In the Konde highlands (around Neu Langenburg) I have noticed some very extensive beds of mica of the Muscovite variety. The flakes are large and remarkably free from iron stains. Graphite has been discovered in the vicinity of Lindi in the extreme south-eastern corner of the country; and copper is said to have been found between this place and the Rovuma River (Portuguese border). There is also without doubt a potential industry in the mag? nificent timber forests which adorn Mount Rungwe and the Poroto Mountains, directly to the north of Neu Langenburg. The German Government seems to have done little or nothing to foster or encourage any of these sources of reVenue and wealth. Whereas along the line of the Central and Tanga Raiiways private enterprise in the growing of Sisal and other tropical produce has been aided by the Govern? ment, the policy in regard to the southern area has been one of laissez faire. In the northern area one or two promising gold-mines are being opened up around Sekenke to the south of Lake Victoria Nyanza, but no mining has been undertaken in the southern portion of the country, although such work would undoubtedly have been justified by indications and general prospects. The Germans seem to have contented themselves with extending the geological survey of the country to the south of the railway, and with the construction of a little laboratory at Alt Langenburg. The main industrial influence in the great southern portion of the country has been that of the missionaries. Mission stations are plentiful throughout the whole southern territory, and round nearly every one of them a large area of ground has been intensively cultivated. Many of these mission stations are beautiful and show great diligence. Some of their gardens are lovely in the extreme. The buildings are invariably of brick. The Rungwe Mission, 9 miles north of Neu Langenburg, and used as the base for General Northey's force, has some of the finest build? ings in the country. The attitude of the Imperial German Government towards religion in their East African possession has been somewhat perplexing, in a nation professing Christianity. While Lutheran missions have received support from the Fatherland, proofs have been obtained of the desire of the German Government to foster Mohammedanism by every means in its power. Their reason for this seeming inconsistency was doubtless to imbue their Askaris or coloured black-troops with the fanatical spirit of Islam, and to preach a Holy War when occasion arose. I do not think it is generally known that at their fortified posts along the southern border they flew the Mohammedan flag alongside the red, black and white of their own nation. Undoubtedly the most interesting parts of southern German East Africa are those immediately adjoining the British territories of Nyasaland and North-Eastern Rhodesia. In these areas abutting on the north end

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of Lake Nyasa and the Songwe River are some extraordinarily beautiful and fertile tracts of country. The German headquarters for all this district was Neu Langenburg, a small hamlet which it is to be hoped will soon revert to its original native name of Ntukuyu. We entered Neu Langenburg at the end of May 1916. Two columns based on Karonga and Fort Hill converged on the town and captured it without a casualty. The advance from Fort Hill took us through country of quite remarkable geographical interest. Fort Hill was an abandoned Boma or administrative post 60 miles west of Karonga on the Stevenson Road, which connects Lakes Nyasa and Tanganyika. We found this old highway so overgrown that in places it was little more than a game-track; but strong road parties soon put the path into a state which allowed motors to travel on it; and engineers reconstructed the crazy old bridges over the Rukuru, Lufira, and Kaseya Rivers, so that to-day there is a highway connecting the two lakes over which fairly heavy traffic can travel without much difficulty. Fort Hill is 7 miles east of the North-East Rhodesian border, and 4 miles to the south the Luangwa has its source. The waters from the southern slopes of the Luakwa and Misuko ranges (which close in round Fort Hill like a broken horseshoe) run into this river and thence by way of the Zambezi into the Indian Ocean at Chinde. Just over the Rhodesian border, however, near Nyala's village, the small plateau falls away steeply to the west, and the Rhodesian ridge of this little escarpment constitutes the divide between the Congo and Zambezi river systems, for west of Nyala the streams unite to form the Karungu River, which joins the Chambezi, flows into Lake Bangweulu, and thence by the Congo into the Atlantic. Fourteen miles to the north of Fort Hill is the bridge thrown in a night across the Songwe River, which we crossed when we entered German East Africa in the dawn of May 25. The road from Fort Hill to Neu Langenburg, vid the Songwe Bridge, the German outpost of Igamba (on top of a sugar-loaf hill), and the beautiful Isoko Mission Station, winds over enormous hills and dives down into deep valleys. On the mountain-tops orchids grow in profusion. Six miles from Neu Langenburg we crossed the Kivira River by a wonderful natural arch known to the natives as " God's Bridge." The whole volume of the Kivira, pent between steep cliffs, runs beneath this arch and then thunders down over a waterfall into a gorge. It is a sight of quite remarkable beauty, which will certainly attract tourists in the years to come. The Germans called all this territory around the north and north- eastern sides of the lake " Deutsche Nyassa," while the district of which Neu Langenburg was the administrative and military headquarters was known as Kondeland, or more particularly the Konde Oberland. They spoke of the Konde Highlands as the Switzerland of their Africa, and the term is certainly justified.

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Neu Langenburg is built on an eminence which dips away on the west to the valley of the Kivira River, and on the east to the Mbaka. To the west and south-west lie the purple mountain walls of Malila and Undali; to the north Rungwe Mountain towers up in the clouds, with the Porotos in the background; while to the east is the hill region of Ukinga. Southward the land falls away through the " Konde Ebene" to Nyasa. Neu Langenburg is thus walled in on three sides by mountains. Closer at hand are hillocks draped in rich green, from which the tinkle of cattle- bells continually sounds, and one is often tempted to wonder whether this is indeed Africa. It seems more like Chamonix. Conifers and deodars border the few streets of the little town, and at the highest point lies a stone-built turreted " Festung," from which the Eagle coat-of-arms has now been removed for well-nigh eighteen months. The Konde Oberland has a very heavy rainfall. About 140 inches were registered at Neu Langenburg in the season 1915-1916. Within 20 miles of Neu Langenburg are several mission stations of remarkable beauty : Isoko and Rutenganio to the south-west, Kyimbila 3 miles to the south, Mwakaleli to the north-east, and Neu Wangermanns- hohe to the south-east. These missions are blazes of flowers, with lovely avenues of roses. About 27 miles south-east by east of Neu Langenburg the Bulongwa mission station nestles below the Livingstone Range, a great wall of rock that marches up the eastern side of Lake Nyasa, attain- ing in places a height of 10,000 feet, and merging eventually into the Buanta or Elton Plateau. To the north of New Langenburg lie a series of volcanic mountains. They are of remarkable interest, and merit all attention. [They are described by Dr. Friedrich Fiilleborn in his * Das Deutsche Njassa und Ruwuma Gebiet' (Deutsch Ost, Afrika> 9; Reimer, Berlin, 1906).] In the Officers' Mess Library of the 2nd Company Schutztruppen, Iringa, I obtained a very fine collection of views illustrating the salient geographical features of southern German East Africa (the Atlas illustrating the above work). Some of these I am sending to the Society. Especially notable are plates illustrating the Langenburg mountain chains, in whose nomenclature there is some confusion. There are three distinct systems :? (1) Rungwe and its outliers to the south; (2) The Poroto chain, extending for 30 miles from the Igale Pass on the west to the Elton Pass on the east; (3) The outlying Ngosi Range, running parallel with the Porotos to the north. Rungwe Mountain is an igneous mass with its highest crest rising to 14,000 feet. Its foothills abut on the southern slopes of the Poroto chain. The Porotos, like Rungwe, are largely igneous, consisting of andesite, trachyte and rhyolite. Several of the higher slopes contain craters, and according to the Usafua natives who inhabit the slopes, at least one of

This content downloaded from 132.236.27.111 on Thu, 23 Jun 2016 09:06:43 UTC All use subject to http://about.jstor.org/terms SOUTH-WESTERN AREA OF "GERMAN" EAST AFRICA 169 these has been active within recent years. The small but exceedingly lovely Wentzel-Heckmann lake lies in an old crater-eup in one of the main eminences of the ridge. The Poroto chain dips at a steep angle to the north, and the smaller range of the Ngosi runs parallel to it. The Poroto chain is the watershed that divides the rivers flowing into Lake Nyasa from those that lead into the Rufiji. In these mountains there is abundance of magnificent timber. The fauna of the ranges is not exten- sive, and the larger vertebrates are limited to Guereza monkeys (the beautiful black-and-white " Colobus") which inhabit the glens and high forest trees, and a few leopards. Wildfowl are very plentiful on the Wentzel-Heckmann Lake, and cranes on the Ngosi foothills. To the north of the Ngosi chain the country dips down into the Usangu flats. These great plains cover about 4000 square miles, and extend north to the Uhehe plateau. The rivers of Usangu and Uhehe lie between flat and low-lying banks, and are notably different from the mountain torrents which rush southwards through the Konde Oberland. The Usangu (or Buhora) flats are plentifully covered with mimosa (" Kameeldoorn "), but in places there are huge treeless plains. The flats teem with big game: giraffe, eland, impala, and zebra. Here also is the southern limit of the diminutive Dik-dik antelope, and of that remark- ably fleet and hardy antelope the Topi (Damaliscus korrigum jimela), a close relative of the Tsessaby of Southern Africa. Along the banks of the Usangu rivers there are huge tracts of spear bamboo, elephant grass, and papyrus, and elephants in fairly large herds close to the larger waters. The Usangu are a powerful and warlike tribe, and have always been secretly hostile to the Germans. At the outbreak of the present war the paramount chief of the tribe, Merere, was made a prisoner by the Germans and taken away to the Central Railway. After several months of captivity he escaped and returned to his people during the progress of our advance on Iringa. Merere's capital is now commonly known as New Utengule. Formerly it was located just under the Elton escarpment. New Utengule is one of the largest native villages in Africa. It is rectangular, with an extreme length from east to west of about 2 miles, and an extreme width from south to north of over a mile. The Mpambi river flows through the village. The huts are all built of dagga (clay), and have well-thatched roofs. They are rectangular and much more substantial than the round huts of the Usafua and the natives on the British side of the border. These people all have a thorough knowledge of Kiswahili. Roughly speaking the Songwe River is the dividing line in this part of the continent between the two principal languages of Central and East Africa. To the south of the Songwe Chinyanja is the lingua franca; to the north Kiswahili. The rough road that leads from Neu Langenburg over the Porotos and through New Utengule, the mission stations of Brandt and Buhora on the

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Mbalata river [called the Mbarali on all maps we have.?Ed. ?./.], and thence on to the Uhehe plateau, had by October 1916 (four months after the commencement of Brigadier-General Northey's advance from the British border) been transformed by South African engineers and large gangs of native road-parties into a broad highway, over which motor- cars were running with supplies and munitions. Some remarkable work was effected in a marvellously short space of time. The cuttings through some of the higher altitudes of the Porotos and the bridging of the Kivira were particularly fine achievements. From Buhora two roads branched northwards to the escarpments of Uhehe?the one going north- east on to the Madibira Mission (Roman Catholic) and the other nearly east to Gaviro and Malangali. These roads, which unite at Ngominyi, 45 miles south-west of Iringa, rise gradually from the Usangu flats to the plateau at Gaviro, where the first steps of the escarpment are ascended. Between Gaviro and Malangali (where we fought our first big fight on 24 July 1916) lies the Irunga River. The Irunga may be said to divide Uhehe from Usangu; and at Malangali a high broken terrain is entered. A characteristic of the southern Uhehe Highlands is the frequency of caiions?some of them rifts 500 feet deep and extending for 3 or 4 miles. Many of them have subsidiary crevices extending into other large cafions. The southern portion of Uhehe between the Irunga River and the Ngombe stream is a perfect network of these great fissures. They are covered with dense vegetable growth, and it appears that vegetable as well as climatic influences are the causes of origin and extension of these cafions, for it can be observed that the growth of vegetable matter on their sides is causing minor rifts which assist atmospheric weathering in disintegration, and causes continual extension of the cafions. The vegetation on the southern Uhehe Highlands is of sub-Alpine variety. Conifers are plentiful, and so are senecios and lobelias closely resembling those found on the slopes of Ruwenzori. The mean altitude along the Iringa road from Malangali to Ngombe is over 6000 feet, and the nights are bitterly cold. The country hereabouts is sparsely populated, for the Germans during their retreat on Iringa denuded the whole country-side of natives: firstly, to secure porters, and, secondly, to hamper our Intelligence Officers. Refusal or even hesitation to comply with German orders meant instant death. Scores of natives perished from exposure and privation in southern Uhehe during the German retirement on Iringa in July and August 1916. When we pursued Braunschweig's column along the Iringa road we passed many lifeless villages, some of them burnt to the ground. Corpses of natives who had sunk beneath their loads and were left to die by the roadside were often seen, and the journey recalled to mind the descrip- tions of the old slave-routes to the east coast so harrowingly told by Livingstone. A few natives were fortunate enough to escape the Germans, and sometimes we heard the faint tinkling of cattle-bells from the depths

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of the canon or we might observe a wisp of smoke floating upwards. A little investigation would generally disclose a few frightened aboriginals hiding in the bush-clad fissures. The Wahehe are a fine, stalwart and warlike race. In the earlier days of the German occupation of East Africa they gave their new rulers a great deal of trouble, and on one or two occasions annihilated small punitive detachments. They own enormous herds of cattle. North of the Ngombe stream is an immense tract of magnificent prairie land intersected here and there by ranges of hills. From Ngominyi to the Iringa Hills is an area of splendid grazing country, lying east of the main Iringa road, and watered by the Ndembera River and its tributaries. Immediately west of the road is a range of hills presenting some very strong defensive positions. These hills flank the road for a distance of 45 miles from Ngominyi to within a mile or two of Iringa, and they were the scene of considerable fighting immediately before and after the juncture of General Smut's main northern army with Brigadier-General Northey's columns. New Iringa is the principal town of Uhehe, about 10 miles north-east- east of the original native village of that name. It has some well-built stone houses, prominent among which are the Boma or Government buildings, the market-place, and the hospital. The hospital has been built since the outbreak of war. There are also a few pleasing dwelling- houses set in sub-tropical gardens; and several streets of squat, flat, rectangular native huts, rejoicing in such names as " N'Dia ya Ssongea " (Songea Street) and " N'Dia ya Askari" (Street of the Askari). In the centre of the town is a large green with a rather grotesque and ornamental pagoda in the centre, and close by is a small obelisk erected to the memory of a number of Askari who fell in the native wars of 1905. All the larger buildings are roofed with tiles and are picturesque. A tributary of the Little Rwaha runs past the town, and on its banks is a wonderful fruit-garden, full of oranges, lemons, limes, paw-paws, and grenadillas. Iringa is wreathed by hills which glow with gorgeous tints in the soft mellow light of dawn and sunset. For some time our prisoners were detained here, and when we entered the town we found also a varied collection of eastern peoples?Japanese, Indians, Chinese, Malagasi, Goanese, and Swahili. I inquired of a German why Chinamen had been interned, as China and Germany were not at war, and was told that they could not for certain discriminate between them and our Japanese allies; but they were taking no risks, and so they detained them all. About 7 miles to the south-west of Iringa lies the Mission Station of Tosamaganga, a huge stone building that towers up with almost startling prominence from the top of a high hill. There is now a good road about 150 miles long from Iringa to Kilosa, the nearest station on the Central Railway. South-east from Iringa a path leads through Boma Himbu, Lukegeta, the Muhanga Mission, and the

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Mgeta Pass to Mahenge through the extremeiy rugged bracken-clad range of the Utshungwe Mountains. The bracken here is very thick; rain falls almost throughout the year; and the luxuriance of the vegetation in the mountain glades is amazing. From the eastern rim of the Utshungwe there is a magnificent view over the Ulanga flats and the valley of the Kilombero or Ulanga River, which further east becomes the Rufiji. This vast and wonderfully fertile colony has now passed into our hands with its agricultural and pastoral wealth, its potential mineral value, and its population of close on eight million natives?a fruitful field for the study of British geographers. One of our first duties should be to restore the original native names of Neu Langenburg, Bismarckburg, Wiedhafen, Sphinxhaven, and other places. Bismarckburg has already been re- christened Kasanga by the Northern Rhodesia Administration; Neu Langenburg should again become Ntukuyu and Wiedhafen Ilela. There remains the problem of a new name for the colony as a whole. Civil administrations are now beginning to cope with the various pro? blems in the conquered territory which press for solution. The unrest resulting from over three years of war in which native soldiers, officered by whites, have been taught how to kill white men with modern weapons, is likely to be not the least of the difficulties that the administration will have to face. Questions of religion also loom large. Many natives have deserted the Cross for the Crescent during the war, and the whole subject of Mission influence and organization will have to be re-considered. It is of much interest to learn that through the agency of the British Mission to the Vatican, it has just been arranged that all the missions of the Roman Catholic faith in German East Africa shall be taken over by missionaries of the same religion, but of British origin. The campaign has brought about an immense development of com? munications in German East Africa, particularly in the southern territory. Good roads now exist from the north end of Lake Nyasa to the Central Railway line and these will prove a great factor in the development of trade. A railway linking up Nyasa with Tanganyika, if not with the Dar-es-Salaam-Ujiji, line would exploit an exceedingly rich country. The Germans neglected its development in the past, but there is ample justifica- tion for the new administration embarking on an active policy when Southern " German " East Africa is handed over by the military authorities to civil rule.

ROUTES FROM THE PANJAB TO TURKESTAN AND CHINA RECORDED BY WILLIAM FINCH (1611): DISCUSSED BY SIR AUREL STEIN

THE by followingSir Aurel notesStein areto the abridged Journal from ef thea paper Panjab contributed Historical lastSociety. year As this publication is not very accessible in this country, and as Finch's

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