© Lonely Planet Publications 257 Western Tanzania The west is Tanzania’s rough, remote frontier land, with few tourists, minimal infrastructure, vast trackless expanses crossed only by the ageing Central Line train and little to draw you here – unless you’re interested in chimpanzees. For this, and for watching wildlife in one of WESTERN TANZANIA Tanzania’s most pristine settings, it’s a fascinating destination. Gombe Stream National Park – Jane Goodall’s world-renowned chimpanzee research sta- tion – and Mahale Mountains National Park offer excellent opportunities to get close to our primate cousins. At Katavi National Park, you’ll be just a speck in the surrounding universe of vast floodplains trammelled by thousands of buffaloes, plus zebras, lions and more. Those with a sense of adventure and imagination can visit tiny Ujiji. Now it’s a nondescript fishing village, but in its heyday it was the terminus of one of East Africa’s most important caravan routes, linking Lake Tanganyika with Bagamoyo and the sea, an important dhow-building centre and a way station for several European expeditions. Lake Tanganyika itself is a scenic and useful transport route if you are heading to or from northern Zambia, and makes a welcome respite from dusty, bumpy roads, with some unforgettable sunset views. Wherever you go, travel in western Tanzania is rugged, and you will need plenty of time. There are few roads (none of them good), and often the only transport choices are boat, train or truck. Outside of Kigoma, Tabora and the national parks, the region is seldom visited and has few facilities. HIGHLIGHTS Experiencing the primeval rhythms of nature in Katavi National Park ( p270 ) Gombe Stream National Park Visiting Mahale Mountains National Park Kigoma ( p267 ) – the ultimate ‘get-away-from-it-all’ Ujiji Tabora destination Lake Tanganyika Mingling with the chimps at Gombe Stream Mahale Mountains National Park ( p265 ) National Park Kicking back on the shores of Lake Tangan- Katavi yika ( p262 ), or sailing towards Zambia on National Park the Liemba ferry Following the old caravan routes to Tabora ( p259 ) or Ujiji (p265 ), or enjoying the mod- est creature comforts and urban outpost ambience of Kigoma ( p262 ) 258 WESTERN TANZANIA lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km WESTERN TANZANIA 0 60 miles To Lusahunga To Gitega To Nyakanazi (70km); Isa (15km) Lusahunga (95km); (150km) Biharamulo (130km); ng Bukoba (300km) a BURUNDI Ri Kibondo v Shinyanga To Bujumbura er (30km) B3 To Mwanza (200km) ὈὈὈὈὈ Kahama Rutana Kigosi Mo GR Makamba yo Moyowosi wosi Nzega Nyanza-Lac B8 GR Ri Malaga v To Singida Manyovu er Igombe (180km) Kagunga Mitumba Kasulu rasi ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Riv Gombe Stream NP er Kasekela Kibirizi Ri B6 Kigoma ver Ujiji Lake Nyagamoma Kaliua Tabora Uvinza er Malagarasi Riv Kipalapala WESTERN TANZANIA Lake er ὈὈὈὈὈSagara Riv Mta River mbo Lugu Nyahua Mishamo Wala fu Sikonge River River Ugalla K a Luegele Ugalla River tamb GR Lagosa i ki Bilenge Sitolo River River Kasiha Mt Nkungwe Ri ὈὈ ὈὈv Limba Kasoge (2462m) er Limba Mahale Shama River Mountains NP Kangwena Mpanda Kibwesa River Lake Sitalike Ikola Katavi To Singida Kalema (290km) ὈὈὈKatavi Kitunda Ifume Malambo NP Lake River Rungwa River Chada L a k e T a n g a n y i k a ma Rungwa River Rukwa Piti Kirando Luki DEM. REP. Lupita GR ὅὅ River Island OF CONGO Kipili (ZAÏRE) ὈὈὈNamanyere ὅὅὈὈ Kipembawe g u B8 a n Zimba Lake a r M ὅὅὅὅὅὅRukwa s t B6 n o Wampembe M Sumbawangaὅὅὅὅὅὅ Kala Kalambo River ὅὅὅὅὅὅ ὈὈMpui Lake Rukwa Makongolosi Kasanga ὅὅὅὅὅὅ Chunya Mo mba To Iringa Kalambo (300km); Falls ὅὅὅὅὅὅ Dar es Salaam Sumbu GR Mpulungu (820km) Mbala Mbeya A104 ὈὈ River ZAMBIA Tukuyu LEGEND GR Game Reserve Tunduma To Karonga (60km) NP National Park To Lusaka To Lusaka (800km) (900km) Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels WESTERN TANZANIA •• Tabora 259 National Parks & Reserves branches for Mwanza and Kigoma. It’s also Gombe Stream ( p265 ) and Mahale Mountains the traditional heartland of the Nyamwezi, ( p267 ) offer the chance to observe chimpan- one of Tanzania’s largest tribal groups. If zees at close range, while Katavi ( p270 ) is one you’re travelling by train, you’ll probably of Africa’s last great frontier destinations, with need to spend at least a day here, and it’s top-notch dry season wildlife watching. worth spending a few more for a glimpse into Game reserves include Moyowosi, Kigosi, a Tanzania well away from Zanzibar and the Ugalla River and Rukwa, although none are northern safari circuits. developed for tourism. Note that many locals refer to Lumumba St as Kazima Rd (its easterly extension). Getting There & Around WESTERN TANZANIA There are airports at Kigoma and Tabora, and Information airstrips in Katavi and Mahale Mountains CRDB Bank (Jamhuri St) Has an ATM (accepts Visa). National Parks. NBC (Market St) Changes cash and travellers cheques; has Roads are in generally poor condition, and an ATM (Visa only). self-drivers will need a 4WD, and good sup- Post Office Internet Café (Jamhuri St; per hr plies of time, spare equipment and mechanical Tsh1000;h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) knowledge. Buses run along major routes, Tabora On-Line (Lumumba St; per hr Tsh1000; h8am- although they’re prone to breakdowns and 5.30pm) Next to the library and opposite the Mohammed journeys can be long and rough. The Central Trans office. Line train was once a good alternative, but today it’s increasingly unreliable, although Sights & Activities still worth considering if you have plenty of There are a few buildings dating back to the time. Along Lake Tanganyika, the Liemba German era, including the train station and ferry makes a fine travel alternative for the old boma, at the end of Boma Rd. The the adventurous. main attraction, however, is the deep maroon- coloured and well-maintained Livingstone’s TABORA tembe (admission Tsh2000;h8am-5pm), a flat-roofed %026 Arabic-style house about 6km southwest of Tabora – a sleepy town basking in the shade town in Kwihara, off the Kipalapala road. of numerous mango and flame trees – was It was here that Livingstone stayed in 1872 once a major trading centre along the old cara- after being found by Stanley in Ujiji, and the van route connecting Lake Tanganyika with house – now a small museum – still holds Bagamoyo and the sea. Known in early days as some of his memorabilia, including letters, a Kazeh, it was the domain of Mirambo, famed diary and other items. To get here, take any king of the Nyamwezi (People of the Moon) dalla-dalla (minibus) heading to Kipalapala tribe, as well as headquarters of infamous and have them drop you at the turn-off (to slave trader Tippu Tib (see the boxed text, the right, when coming from Tabora), from p261 ). A string of European explorers passed where it’s about 2km further on foot. Taxis through its portals, most notably Stanley and from town charge about Tsh6000 return. Once Livingstone, and Burton and Speke. Stanley, at the tembe, you’ll need to find the caretaker waxing lyrical over the town, noted that it con- to let you in – he lives about 500m away and tained ‘over a thousand huts and tembes, and will probably come bicycling down if he sees one may safely estimate the population…at visitors. Otherwise, ask anyone in the village five thousand people.’ After the Central Line for ‘Livingstone’ and they’ll point you in the railway was constructed, Tabora became the right direction. largest town in German East Africa. By the turn of the 19th century Tabora had Sleeping also become an important mission station. It BUDGET soon also gained prominence as a regional Moravian Hostel (%026-260 4710, 0787-401613; Old educational centre – a reputation that it has Mwanza Rd; s/d in new wing Tsh5000/8000, d without bath- somewhat managed to retain even today – and room in old wing Tsh3000) Spartan twin-bed rooms Julius Nyerere attended school here. with mosquito nets in a quiet compound Today Tabora is still an important about 2km from the train station, and about transport junction where the Central Line 10 minutes’ walk from the bus station. Follow 260 WESTERN TANZANIA •• Tabora Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels 0 200 m TABORA 0 0.1 miles Mwanza To Mwanza 11 ACB BomaTo Rd Kigoma D Old (330km) Rufita 9 (350km) Rd St Gongoni St Kazima Rd To Nzega (95km); Stadium Singida (275km); 1 Manyema St Mwanza (350km) Soko la Hindu 7 Temple Mitumba Ujiji Rd Coronation Rd Market St Balewa St 14 20 16 Ijumaa Boma Rd Uhuru St Market Mosque Pentecostal 2 Lumumba St Church Compound 17 4 Train 8 15 21 Library Station Salamini St Aga Khan Mosque 19 22 18 Station Rd Railway Police Nyamwezi St Catholic 12 Church 6 Kitunda Pride Rd Tanzania 1 Playing Field To Dodoma (340km); River Nile 3 Jamhuri St Dar es Salaam (740km) 13 Hotel TRANSPORT 2 School St Itetemia Rd Ng'ambo St Bus & Taxi Stand....................19 A2 10 Mohammed Trans ................20 B1 Precision Air............................21 B1 Kanyenye Taxi Stand..............................22 B2 St Stephen's Church INFORMATION Rd WESTERN TANZANIA CRDB Bank ..............................1 B2 Kisingo Lodge..................10 A2 NBC Bank................................2 A1 Moravian Hostel..............11 A1 Hill Rd Post Office Internet Café..........3 B2 Orion Tabora Hotel.........12 C2 Fundikira Kilimatinde Rd Tabora On-Line........................4 B1 White Sakoz Inn..............13 A2 Playing SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES EATING Field Old Boma................................5 D3 Duka la Maziwa...............14 B1 3 Wadudu's Auto Spares........(see 15) Kaidee's Supermarket.......15 B1 Mayor's Hotel & Ice Cream 5 SLEEPING Parlour.........................16 B1 Aposele Guest House..............6 D2 Mayor's Hotel & Ice Cream To Airport (5km) Fama Hotel..............................7 C1 Parlour.........................17 A1 To Livingstone's Tembe Golden Eagle............................8 B1 Orion Tabora Hotel ......(see 12) & Kwihara (6km); Kipalapala (10km); Some Minor Roads Hotel Wilca..............................9 B1 Tropicano........................18 B2 Rungwa (280km) not Depicted the unpaved road past the main entrance to The en suite rooms have one large bed, the the market.