Miraculous Einsiedeln by LINDA FASTESON for the SUN CHRONICLE Sunday, January 15, 2012 1:43 AM EST
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(Photo by Roger Fasteson) View Photo Gallery >> Swiss town notable for faith, history Top Headlines While visiting our daughter in Indiana last spring, we discovered several areas in that state that THE PAGE: For her, family vacations have lots were settled by the Swiss - including Tell City, of ups and downs known for its pretzels and furniture - and St. Meinrad, site of an archabbey founded by the Swiss THE PAGE: Bullying finally getting attention it Abbey of Einsiedeln in 1854. deserves THE PAGE: What is love? It is now a pilgrimage site and home to 100 THE PAGE: Beating senior stress Benedictine monks. You may have seen cards and The Sun Chronicle | Promote Your Page Too other paper products produced by their Abbey INTRONE: Brewing up coffee thoughts Press. Scout on a mission So, when we were in the Lake Lucerne region of RYVICKER: Lending a caring ear Switzerland in October, we took the train to Einsiedeln in the central Swiss canton of Schwyz to THE PAGE: Setting goals for 2012? Here's explore the origin of the U.S. cities. Einsiedeln some advice Abbey is the largest abbey and oldest pilgrimage HICKMAN: Gumshoes around the globe site in Switzerland. It is one of the most important pilgrimage sites for the Madonna in Europe. THE PAGE: Texting and driving still major problem All begins with one man Print this story Everything about the area goes back to Meinrad, Email this story who was born in Germany to a wealthy family - the counts of Hohenzollern. In this time of Photo Reprints primogeniture, the first son inherited the entire RSS family estate. In keeping with the traditions of the AddThis time, when it was time for Meinrad, the third or fourth son, to learn to read and write, he was sent to an island in Lake Constance for a life with the Catholic Church. He became a Benedictine monk, and in 820 AD was sent to teach in the southern part of Zurich, near Rapperwill. He liked the area, but wanted to spend his life as a hermit monk devoted to prayer, not as a converted by Web2PDFConvert.com spend his life as a hermit monk devoted to prayer, not as a teacher. In 827, he went to a more remote area, but people still came to him for advice. Seeking more solitude, he built a cabin on what is now the site of the monastery. For 26 years, Meinrad lived as a hermit. In 861, two men named Richard and Peter came to rob him of his treasures. They discovered that he had given away all his worldly goods and murdered him. Two ravens that Meinrad hand fed followed the murderers to Zurich, squawking loudly and attacking them. Richard and Peter hid in a restaurant in the Old Town, but the noisy ravens attracted the attention of the townspeople, who had heard of the crime. The murderers were condemned to a gruesome Einsiedeln Abbey is known for medieval-style death. Meinrad was recognized as a martyr. its miraculous consecration in honor of the Madonna. The The Benedictine monastery was established in Einsiedeln in waters from the fountain are 934. It was completed 14 years later, and just as it was about said to have curative powers. to be consecrated and inaugurated, Bishop Conrad of Lake (Photo by Roger Fasteson) Constance had a vision that the roof opened to heaven, Jesus and Mary appeared and the voice of God instructed him to not consecrate the chapel because God had already consecrated it in honor of the Madonna. A papal bull in 964 authenticated the vision. Sept. 14, 948 - the day of the Miraculous Consecration - is the most important day in Einsiedeln. Before trains came to Einsiedeln, pilgrims traveled on foot for Engelweihe, which was a 10- to 14-day celebration that began on a Sunday. Engelweihe, the consecration or blessing of the angels, is now celebrated every Sept. 14 with an illumination of the church, monastery and nearby buildings. Townspeople and pilgrims march in a candlelight procession. Building a monastery The square in Einsiedeln, By the 17th century, the church became too small to serve as includes the fountain believed a monastery with about 250 monks, a place for pilgrims and a to deliver water from the parish church.The Prince Abbot also wanted a monument that same source Meinrad found, would reflect his stature. which is said to provide good health. (Photo by Roger The monastery received royal support throughout the Middle Fasteson) Ages. Statues of two German Emperors - Otto I on the left and Henry II on the right - flank the entrance. It was Otto I who in 948 gave land and granted the Abbott power as a Prince Abbot. This authority continued until the French Revolution in 1798. Henry II gave the monastery over 56,500 acres, an act that was contested by the people of the area who used this land for their cows. He also gave the rights to elect the Abbott from among themselves - something not even the Pope in Rome can change. The magnificent baroque abbey, nearly 2,500-feet long and 525-feet deep, is one of the finest in Europe. Built of sandstone native to the area where Meinrad first lived, the exterior is designed with arches that reach out like open arms. A carved wooden main door is open only on holidays. The paved square was built about 1750 by an Italian architect as a smaller version of St. Peter's Square in Rome. The waters from a fountain on the square are believed to be from the same source Meinrad found. People come to drink from the 14 faucets, each dedicated to a different saint. Many claim to have been cured by the waters of this sacred spring, which are said to provide good health throughout the year. The interior was created by the Asam brothers, who are considered the best 18th century baroque decorative artists. The white walls are gilded and the art draws the eye upward, as to heaven. There are vaulted ceilings, pillars, and magnificent paintings and frescoes, including the popular Christmas Cupola depicting the birth of Jesus. Ravens are on either side of tre pulpit in tribute to St. Meinrad. There are gold caskets and relics of the first Christian martyrs in Rome. About 460 little angels all look happily up toward heaven. There are three very different areas - one for pilgrims, one for Mass and one dividing the worldly church from the monastery. It's awe through architecture at its best. Photographs converted by Web2PDFConvert.com are not allowed inside the church. Some 130,000 people were here to celebrate the Madonna statue that replaced the original one from 1286 that was destroyed by fire. It is believed that the Madonna, carved in 1466, like the original, can perform miracles. It is enshrined in a black marble chapel within the abbey church on the site where Meinrad's hut is believed to have stood - the site that has drawn pilgrims since the Middle Ages. The Madonna is surrounded by a gilded circle with rays of light. Her robe is selected according to the liturgy from her valuable collection of over 30 garments, most of which were donated. There are daily Masses, chanting and singing of Vespers, and a Salve Regina tribute to the Virgin Mary. The Benedictine monks' day includes prayer five times a day, lectures, and as much reading as possible. Monasteries were historic centers of learning and written material, and included a libraries. Read up Einsiedeln's baroque library was built in the early 1700s by Abbot Nikolaus II Imfeld. The library is on the north side where temperatures are cooler and more constant throughout the year. Hand-lettered and illustrated books are on display. Fragile manuscripts are preserved elsewhere. Concerts are held in the abbey church and Great Hall, which also holds exhibitions throughout the year. Other attractions Two other monastic attractions are Diorama Bethlehem, the largest nativity display in the world, with 450 hand-carved figures and a painted background that extends nearly 100 feet, and Panorama, which features a circular painting of the crucifixion of Christ Einsiedeln is the site of a Christmas market from late November to early December. Over 100 stalls line main street and the abbey square, selling handicrafts, Glühwein, a warm spiced red wine, and, of course, gingerbread, known as Lebkuchen. Another Einsiedeln specialty are called Schafbocke, which translates as rams. This traditional pilgrims' cookie is made of flour, water, honey, and spices and is shaped like a resting lamb. The monastery used to hold all rights to make Schafböcke, but after the French Revolution bakeries were allowed to make them. One of the best places to find traditional treats like these is at Goldapfel, a 19th century gingerbread bakery and museum on Kronenstrasse 1. Admittance is free. Goldapfel was once the home of the shoemaker, whose wife's baking business began to exceed that of her husband's shoemaking.