In the Past Year, We Have Written About Yachting and Pleasure Boating at Many Locations, Both Home and Abroad. the Options for A
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boating n in france river-boating gallic-style In the past year, we have written about yachting and pleasure boating at many locations, both home and abroad. The options for a vacation spent on water are numerous, including The Norfolk Broads, The English Lakes and the British canals network but Peter Lewsey decided to try the French alternative and declared it most restful. ur boating adventure began when we space would be important and the Quattro offered us two arrived at the Nicol’s European holiday berths, each with en-suite shower and toilet facilities. specialist base at Brienon sur Armançon. It The spacious living area, which incorporated a large was from this picturesque and seldom dining table, a well-equipped galley area, with oven, hob, travelled part of north-central France that a large fridge-freezer and a full range of kitchen utensils, we would collect the boat that would be crockery and cutlery, meant that we were fully catered Oour home for the next seven days of cruising down a for. There was plenty of space for the captain to sit and French canal. While the prospect of tackling a pilot the boat, with room beside for the navigator. The completely alien waterway (de Bourgogne), at the only difficulty might arise from which of us wanted to controls of an unfamiliar vessel, could have been perform those tasks. daunting, Nicol’s does a very good job of quelling any On warm and dry days the sundeck offered an pre-cruise nerves and assuring vacationers that there is additional place for the tiller and we made good use of it. truly little of which to be worried. The boat’s exterior incorporated a second sun deck at the Before boarding our boat for the week, we stocked up prow, complete with integral table and seating area, on essential provisions at the convenience supermarket, while a large sun deck occupied the rear, which was directly across the road from the boatyard. With such a perfect for taking in the scenery, at the same time ‘captive market’, you might have expected the allowing us private space, should we need it and a great shopkeeper to take a small advantage, yet his prices were choice of on-board spaces where we could enjoy a glass, all but identical to any other canal-side shops and retail or few, of local wines. For our trip, we had arranged the emporia we tried during our break. hire of bicycles, for those occasional off-boat forays, and We also took the opportunity to purchase fishing they were easily stored on the back deck. licences from the local bar (it would be illegal for us not Once clear about the vessel operations, our next to), which was admittedly an unusual place to acquire challenge was to negotiate the locks, an inevitable hazard them, however, it did allow us to enjoy a small drink and of canal-boating and, when planning our trip, we realised gain some fishing tips from the delightfully friendly that we would pass through no less than 48 of them, n The 16th Century locals. We took a little time out to explore Brienon, before reaching our destination at Venarey-les-Laumes, Renaissance chateau at Ancy le Franc is a another restful which is a typical French small town, and were where Nicol’s operate another of its offices. Needless to beauty spot off de Bourgogne impressed by its 13th and 16th Century churches, as well say, we approached the first one with a degree of as the oval wash-house that dates back to 1792. Nicol’s exceptionally helpful and friendly staff soon had us boarded and ready for some much-needed instructions. It was vital that all of us paid attention, just in case anything untoward should occur. While I have previous boating experience, to be frank, I had never driven a canal vessel of this size before. Fortunately, I was reassured by the simple and intuitive controls that are required to operate it and the inevitable Health & Safety details, while slightly unnerving, are essential to making the holiday more relaxing. We were truly impressed at the size and facilities aboard the Estivale Quattro. As a group of four adults, n A lockkeeper’s cat typically begs for snacks 42 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Winter 2013/14 boating n in france trepidation. Yet, we were relieved to see that there was a by a pair of rivers, the Armance and the Arman çon. We n Early preconceptions about the locks were totally lockkeeper present to help us. walked up the steep hill, through streets framed by unfounded We soon mastered the process and, by the end of the medieval buildings that take in the panoramic views of trip, one member of our party had assumed the role of an the old town, as well as the surrounding countryside. honorary lockkeeper, helping wherever he could to Our next significant stop, at Tonnerre, was not only to navigate both our boat and also to help other canal explore the town and its surrounding countryside but adventurers… Each lock had a keeper’s cottage and most also to undertake the essential task of recharging our on- were highly individual in their style and beauty. We were boards electricity supply from the mains. Unfortunately, particularly impressed with the cats and dogs that came we encountered a little problem, when we discovered out to greet us, as we approached the locks. Naturally, they that the correct plug-in adaptor was not on-board the french canal were expecting treats from the passing boat-people and boat. However, a quick telephone call to Nicol’s resolved facts: were clearly very familiar with receiving tasty morsels. the issue and, within half an hour, we were reconnected. Our week spent on the canal de Bourgogne was We took the opportunity to explore the historic old Peter travelled with boating incredibly relaxing, which allowed each of us to switch town, with its ‘Fosse Dionne’, a circular basin fed by a holiday specialist, Nicol’s. off from our busy working and social lives, to natural spring that was used as a public washing place, River boats can be hired for concentrate on the amazing tranquillity and sheer while a walk up to the Church St Pierre, built high on a crews of between two and loveliness of the canal and the surrounding countryside. rock terrace, proved fascinating. twelve people, with prices We stopped at several towns, villages and chateaux, all We were particularly impressed with the chateau, at starting from 645 Euros for a of which were packed with character and outstandingly Ancy-le-Franc, the 16th Century building being a fine three-nights short-break, or redolent of the historic region of Burgundy. example of Renaissance architecture, which had been 993 Euros for a week-long Incidentally, we made really good use of our fishing restored recently, complete with original furnishings. At holiday based on a boat licences, hooking fish each evening, once we had Ravieres, we consumed a delicious, hearty and cost- sleeping six people. Neither moored for the night. Mind you, we were slightly effective meal at Le Convivial, a canal-side restaurant, previous boating experience, disappointed with the overall quality of the fish landed usefully close to where we had moored. nor a special licence is that was until our last evening in Venarey, when a Stopping at Montbard, we explored the Buffon park needed (apart from the member of our group netted an enormous carp, so big, and museum, dedicated to the celebrated naturalist, fishing alternative). In addition in fact, that we caused quite a stir at the boatyard, which Georges-Louis Leclerc, the Comte de Buffon (1707- to the Burgundy region, provided additional entertainment for the guests on a 1788), who was born and resided in the town. However, Nicol’s boasts 17 other bases nearby hotel barge. At least we left a positive impression. all too soon we reached our destination of Venarey, throughout France, with one During our planning for the trip we had identified key which denoted the end of our journey and a week in Portugal and two in stops to make along the way, which would help us to cruising on the canal de Bourgogne. On reflection, our Germany. For more explore this historical region in more detail. It was the boating week was most enjoyable, thanks largely to the information, call 02392- right decision to make and our first stop at St Florentin, natural and historical beauty of Burgundy and the 401320 or visit www.boat- revealed that, as well as the canal, the town is surrounded professionalism and support of Nicol’s. renting-nicols.co.uk. Winter 2013/14 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 43.