from Burgundy Press Kit Why It’s an idea that just came to us one day. a travel At Bourgogne Tourisme we were exploring how to create a sort journal? of intimate ‘dear diary,’ a guide written by a woman who travels all across Burgundy following the advice of Véronique, in charge of media relations. So let’s hit the road and learn about the Burgundy she discovered. I really didn’t know much of anything about Burgundy. Not much more than a few cliches: mustard, wine and some of the cities like Dijon, Auxerre and Beaune. Really nothing all that concrete, you know? So when Paul suggested that we take a little spin there, I didn’t need convincing. So much so that Véronique would still helping me plan the trip. This is a perfect opportunity to be guided by local experts. They gave me the addresses of their favorite places and hidden finds. And I can certainly tell you this: This trip absolutely rocks! Everything is gorgeous and accessible. Burgundy is, We’re discovering a multitude of breathtaking cities rich in cultural, in all respects, historical and natural character. But we reach city limits in no time at as good as all and then also tumble into the countryside and its vineyards. its reputation! We are being completely pampered by our hosts. It’s been an immense treat to share everything with them. After all, Burgundians are completely crazy about beautiful things and simply love life. In Burgundy, the best time is mealtime, with a glass of fine wine near at hand! Burgundy is a truly amazing place. That’s why I’m using my personal notes to relive our travels through the vineyards, the countryside, along the canals and in the art- and history-filled cities and villages. As they say in Burgundy: Bon voyage ! 2 3 CONTENTS WINE TOURISM I Terroir Superstar 7 MEALTIME I Seeing Stars in Burgundy 13 HERITAGE I A Land Blessed by the Gods 19 BURGUNDY BY BOAT I On the Waterways 25 BURGUNDY BY BIKE I Freewheeling 31 ADRENALINE I Natural Energy 37 ZEN ATTITUDE I Unbutton in Burgundy 42 PUTTING GREEN I Burgundy: Where Golf Is Natural 44 LUXURY ACCOMMODATION I Simply Sumptuous 46 GLAM’CHIC I Glamor and No Fuss 50 UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION I Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers 54 UNFORGETTABLE EVENTS 59 All Roads Lead to... Burgundy 64 Contacts 66 4 5 WINE TOURISM Terroir Superstar 6 7 WINE TOURISM Terroir Superstar As we travel along the many wine roads, we encounter some of the most desirable wines in the world, like Romanée-Conti and the masterpiece of Vosne-Romanée, as well as Pommard, Meursault, Chablis, Pouilly- Fuissé, Givry and more. It’s an incredible constellation of wines easily enjoyed during a stroll, a visit to a cellar or a pause in any of the new places where you can learn to taste wine. THE « CLIMATS » OF THE BURGUNDY WINE GROWING TRIP PLAN NEW FOR THE HILL REGION. Classified as UNESCO World Heritage sites OF CORTON Burgundy’s terroir is unique. Its 150-mile-long vineyard is a source of inspiration my to wine amateurs and experts. This naturally blessed region depends on the excellence of its soil and the effective use of its “climats,” the latter a complex faves 10:00 AM > Visit of the Château Corton André. notion that first found favor with monks in 1098. Tasted several Burgundian nectars. An Each parcel of land was the subject of de Tonnerre”); and, finally, great vintages (grands impromptu stroll on the hill of Corton. specific studies made by the Benedictine crus like Bonnes Mares, Charmes Chambertin, www.pierre-andre.com and Cistercian monks, who then classified Montrachet and Richebourg). 1:00 PM > Lunch at the tasting Table of Comte and protected the land using low walls. Now there are even more trails to help you discover Sénard in Aloxe-Corton. Seen from terrace of This in turn gave rise to vineyard enclosures (“clos”) the Climats by car, on foot or even by bike. this truly charming place, there are vineyards as and place names. far as the eye can see. www.domainesenard.com ADD This typically Burgundian subtlety explains why www.climats-bourgogne.com 3:00 PM > An afternoon in Beaune for visiting TO MY DIARY two parcels a few feet apart don’t produce the the historic center, especially its crown jewel: the same wines. It is also an early precursor to the Hôtel Dieu, better known as the Hospices de four-tier Burgundian wine hierarchy: generic Beaune. I jumped at the opportunity to shop for wines (red Burgundy); village appellations (Morey- some gourmet souvenirs: mustard, spice Saint-Denis, Saint-Véran); first-growth vintages bread, cheese and wine! HOSPICES DE BEAUNE WINE SALE (premier crus like Chablis premier cru “Montée www.hospices-de-beaune.com The third weekend of November is a big rendezvous for wine enthusiasts and 6:30 PM > Departure for Aloxe-Corton, where professionals. It happens like a practiced ritual Paul has reserved a room at the Villa Louise, every year: more than 600 casks of wine are put BEAUNE VINEYARDS BY MOPED a charming hotel not far from the Domaine up for auction under Christie’s hammer. The sale is du Comte Sénard. I’ve a feeling we’re going an opportunity for professionals to get an early feel One unusual and fun way to visit and better understand the concept of to have a great night in the vineyards. Before for how the vintage, and by extension the market, my “climats” is by moped. will do; but it is also, and above all, a great way to heading to dinner, I’m going for a dip in the discover the wine capital of Burgundy, which pulls faves indoor swimming pool. out all the festive stops for the occasion. Take a turn through Beaune and across some of its nearby vineyards on a two-wheeler www.hotel-villa-louise.fr belonging to the Domaine Guyot. Each path and vine helps explain the idea of wine www.beaune-tourisme.fr enclosures and place names. http://baptisteguyot.wix.com/baptisteguyot 8:00 PM > Aperitif and dinner at the Buissonnière What a great SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE It’s great to be able to coast on vintage two-wheelers through in Ladoix Serrigny. place! Charlotte’s such prestigious vineyards. Small roads lead us to the heart of www.restaurant- cooking capped In 2016, just for once, the Irancy vineyards will the vines. From there, as soon as we gain a little elevation, labuissonniere.com off a perfectly host the great Saint Vincent de Bourgogne festival we realize the extent of the fields. The views are incredible beautiful day. on 30th and 31st January 2016. from on high! www.st-vincent-tournante.fr 8 9 When laying out the vineyards, the monks included a road SCHOOLS LA VINIF - THE COOPERS’ WINES, Beaune that ran from the north to the far south of Burgundy. The THE FOR TASTING This is a new type of wine-tasting room, one WINE result is 155 miles of vineyards to savor along six labeled set in a cooper’s haunt in the heart of Beaune. ROADS BURGUNDY WINES WINE TOURISM wine roads. It’s a modern and cozy place where tastings are fun and friendly. Burgundy-style nibbles - a meat www.burgundy-tourism.com/discover/travel-the-wine-routes With Burgundy so well known for its plate, cheese puff pastries - can also be arranged. wineries, wine tastings are now more www.vinsdestonneliers.com educational, playful and user-friendly than ever before. Wine bars, schools, VIGNERONS OF SECRET WORLDS, tasting tables and even the vintners Prissé Whether you desire cooking themselves offer opportunities to teach demonstrations, wine-tasting soirées, vineyard about how to sample Burgundy wines. walks or just a chance to shop, the Vignerons des Terres Secrètes are ready to help you discover the BIVB WINE SCHOOL, Beaune wines of Mâconnais. The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de www.terres-secretes.com Bourgogne is best placed to teach tasting techniques. Through short introductions to more DOMAINE SAGET, Pouilly-sur-Loire comprehensive training, the school is adapting to The vineyards of the Nièvre, which practically rub its new public. With a glass in hand, a professional leaves with those of the Loire, also have some THE ROUTE DES GRANDS CRUS THE ROUTE DES VINS instructs you how to look at, smell and taste wine, things to say. The domain of Guy Saget in Pouilly- IN CÔTES DE NUITS OF THE MÂCONNAIS and then share your thoughts about it. It’s fun and sur-Loire tells the story of Sauvignon, a white AND CÔTES DE BEAUNE BEAUJOLAIS informative. www.ecoledesvins-bourgogne.com grape originally from Pouilly-Fumé. www.domainesaget.fr From Dijon to Santenay, there are 50 miles of The nature is a bit wilder and the temperature a THE CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY TASTING happiness to crisscross, all along what’s been little hotter in southern Burgundy. It’s a region of TABLE, Mercurey The castle looks out over called the “Champs-Élysées” of Burgundy (national yellow stone and the imposing Rock of Solutré. THE BUBBLE IMAGINARIUM AND THE the Mercurey vineyards. The Devillard family, route 74). It’s a road that passes through Gevrey- The 47-mile wine route follows the path of the sun CASSISSIUM, Nuits-Saint-Georges Bubbly which owns vineyards in Saône-et-Loire and the Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, through lavish lands like Fuissé and into Beaujolais, crémant wines and cassis are two important Côte-d’Or, set up a tasting table here that includes Pommard and more.