from Press Kit Why It’s an idea that just came to us one day. a travel At Bourgogne Tourisme we were exploring how to create a sort journal? of intimate ‘dear diary,’ a guide written by a woman who travels all across Burgundy following the advice of Véronique, in charge of media relations. So let’s hit the road and learn about the Burgundy she discovered.

I really didn’t know much of anything about Burgundy. Not much more than a few cliches: mustard, wine and some of the cities like , and . Really nothing all that concrete, you know? So when Paul suggested that we take a little spin there, I didn’t need convincing. So much so that Véronique would still helping me plan the trip.

This is a perfect opportunity to be guided by local experts. They gave me the addresses of their favorite places and hidden finds. And I can certainly tell you this:

This trip absolutely rocks! Everything is gorgeous and accessible. Burgundy is, We’re discovering a multitude of breathtaking cities rich in cultural, in all respects, historical and natural character. But we reach city limits in no time at as good as all and then also tumble into the countryside and its vineyards. its reputation!

We are being completely pampered by our hosts. It’s been an immense treat to share everything with them. After all, Burgundians are completely crazy about beautiful things and simply love life. In Burgundy, the best time is mealtime, with a glass of fine wine near at hand!

Burgundy is a truly amazing place. That’s why I’m using my personal notes to relive our travels through the vineyards, the countryside, along the and in the art- and history-filled cities and villages.

As they say in Burgundy:

Bon voyage !

2 3 CONTENTS

WINE TOURISM I Terroir Superstar 7 MEALTIME I Seeing Stars in Burgundy 13 HERITAGE I A Land Blessed by the Gods 19 BURGUNDY BY BOAT I On the Waterways 25 BURGUNDY BY BIKE I Freewheeling 31 ADRENALINE I Natural Energy 37 ZEN ATTITUDE I Unbutton in Burgundy 42 PUTTING GREEN I Burgundy: Where Golf Is Natural 44 LUXURY ACCOMMODATION I Simply Sumptuous 46 GLAM’CHIC I Glamor and No Fuss 50 UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION I Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers 54

UNFORGETTABLE EVENTS 59 All Roads Lead to... Burgundy 64

Contacts 66

4 5 WINE TOURISM Terroir Superstar

6 7 WINE TOURISM Terroir Superstar

As we travel along the many wine roads, we encounter some of the most desirable wines in the world, like Romanée-Conti and the masterpiece of Vosne-Romanée, as well as , , , Pouilly- Fuissé, Givry and more. It’s an incredible constellation of wines easily enjoyed during a stroll, a visit to a cellar or a pause in any of the new places where you can learn to taste wine.

THE « CLIMATS » OF THE GROWING TRIP PLAN NEW FOR THE HILL REGION. Classified as UNESCO World Heritage sites OF CORTON Burgundy’s terroir is unique. Its 150-mile-long vineyard is a source of inspiration my to wine amateurs and experts. This naturally blessed region depends on the excellence of its soil and the effective use of its “climats,” the latter a complex faves 10:00 AM > Visit of the Château Corton André. notion that first found favor with monks in 1098. Tasted several Burgundian nectars. An Each parcel of land was the subject of de Tonnerre”); and, finally, great vintages (grands impromptu stroll on the hill of Corton. specific studies made by the Benedictine crus like Bonnes Mares, Charmes Chambertin, www.pierre-andre.com and Cistercian monks, who then classified Montrachet and Richebourg). 1:00 PM > Lunch at the tasting Table of Comte and protected the land using low walls. Now there are even more trails to help you discover Sénard in Aloxe-Corton. Seen from terrace of This in turn gave rise to vineyard enclosures (“clos”) the Climats by car, on foot or even by bike. this truly charming place, there are vineyards as and place names. far as the eye can see. www.domainesenard.com ADD This typically Burgundian subtlety explains why www.climats-bourgogne.com 3:00 PM > An afternoon in Beaune for visiting TO MY DIARY two parcels a few feet apart don’t produce the the historic center, especially its crown jewel: the same wines. It is also an early precursor to the Hôtel Dieu, better known as the Hospices de four-tier Burgundian wine hierarchy: generic Beaune. I jumped at the opportunity to shop for wines (red Burgundy); village appellations (- some gourmet souvenirs: mustard, spice Saint-Denis, Saint-Véran); first-growth vintages bread, cheese and wine! HOSPICES DE BEAUNE WINE SALE (premier crus like Chablis premier cru “Montée www.hospices-de-beaune.com The third weekend of November is a big rendezvous for wine enthusiasts and 6:30 PM > Departure for Aloxe-Corton, where professionals. It happens like a practiced ritual Paul has reserved a room at the Villa Louise, every year: more than 600 casks of wine are put BEAUNE VINEYARDS BY MOPED a charming hotel not far from the Domaine up for auction under Christie’s hammer. The sale is du Comte Sénard. I’ve a feeling we’re going an opportunity for professionals to get an early feel One unusual and fun way to visit and better understand the concept of to have a great night in the vineyards. Before for how the vintage, and by extension the market, my “climats” is by moped. will do; but it is also, and above all, a great way to heading to dinner, I’m going for a dip in the discover the wine capital of Burgundy, which pulls faves indoor swimming pool. out all the festive stops for the occasion. Take a turn through Beaune and across some of its nearby vineyards on a two-wheeler www.hotel-villa-louise.fr belonging to the Domaine Guyot. Each path and vine helps explain the idea of wine www.beaune-tourisme.fr enclosures and place names. http://baptisteguyot.wix.com/baptisteguyot 8:00 PM > Aperitif and dinner at the Buissonnière What a great SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE It’s great to be able to coast on vintage two-wheelers through in Ladoix . place! Charlotte’s such prestigious vineyards. Small roads lead us to the heart of www.restaurant- cooking capped In 2016, just for once, the vineyards will the vines. From there, as soon as we gain a little elevation, labuissonniere.com off a perfectly host the great Saint Vincent de Bourgogne festival we realize the extent of the fields. The views are incredible beautiful day. on 30th and 31st January 2016. from on high! www.st-vincent-tournante.fr

8 9 When laying out the vineyards, the monks included a road SCHOOLS LA VINIF - THE COOPERS’ WINES, Beaune that ran from the north to the far south of Burgundy. The THE FOR TASTING This is a new type of wine-tasting room, one WINE result is 155 miles of vineyards to savor along six labeled set in a cooper’s haunt in the heart of Beaune. ROADS BURGUNDY WINES WINE TOURISM wine roads. It’s a modern and cozy place where tastings are fun and friendly. Burgundy-style nibbles - a meat www.burgundy-tourism.com/discover/travel-the-wine-routes With Burgundy so well known for its plate, cheese puff pastries - can also be arranged. wineries, wine tastings are now more www.vinsdestonneliers.com educational, playful and user-friendly than ever before. Wine bars, schools, VIGNERONS OF SECRET WORLDS, tasting tables and even the vintners Prissé Whether you desire cooking themselves offer opportunities to teach demonstrations, wine-tasting soirées, vineyard about how to sample Burgundy wines. walks or just a chance to shop, the Vignerons des Terres Secrètes are ready to help you discover the BIVB WINE SCHOOL, Beaune wines of Mâconnais. The Bureau Interprofessionnel des Vins de www.terres-secretes.com Bourgogne is best placed to teach tasting techniques. Through short introductions to more DOMAINE SAGET, Pouilly-sur- comprehensive training, the school is adapting to The vineyards of the Nièvre, which practically rub its new public. With a glass in hand, a professional leaves with those of the Loire, also have some THE ROUTE DES GRANDS CRUS THE ROUTE DES VINS instructs you how to look at, smell and taste wine, things to say. The domain of Guy Saget in Pouilly- IN CÔTES DE OF THE MÂCONNAIS and then share your thoughts about it. It’s fun and sur-Loire tells the story of Sauvignon, a white AND CÔTES DE BEAUNE informative. www.ecoledesvins-bourgogne.com grape originally from Pouilly-Fumé. www.domainesaget.fr From Dijon to Santenay, there are 50 miles of The nature is a wilder and the temperature a THE CHÂTEAU DE CHAMIREY TASTING happiness to crisscross, all along what’s been little hotter in southern Burgundy. It’s a region of TABLE, The castle looks out over called the “Champs-Élysées” of Burgundy (national yellow stone and the imposing Rock of Solutré. THE BUBBLE IMAGINARIUM AND THE the Mercurey vineyards. The Devillard family, route 74). It’s a road that passes through Gevrey- The 47-mile wine route follows the path of the sun CASSISSIUM, Nuits-Saint-Georges Bubbly which owns vineyards in -et-Loire and the Chambertin, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Aloxe-Corton, through lavish lands like Fuissé and into Beaujolais, crémant wines and cassis are two important Côte-d’Or, set up a tasting table here that includes Pommard and more. which is split between Burgundy and the Rhone. elements of Burgundian wine-growing. In Nuits- the commentary of a professional. It’s an easy Saint-Georges, two museums allow for full step from here to the dinner table. The Domaine immersion in both worlds through games for the THE ROUTE DES GRANDS VINS THE ROUTE DU CRÉMANT du Château de Chamirey now also counts on senses and guided tastings. the support of Laurent Peugeot, the chef of Le IN CÔTE CHALONNAISE IN CHÂTILLLONNAIS www.imaginarium-bourgogne.com Charlemagne, a Michelin-starred restaurant in COUNTRY www.cassissium.fr A bit further south, this extension of the Côte Pernand-Vergelesses. www.chamirey.com de Beaune with a different “climat” includes Not far from the vineyards of the , the Route Rully, , Mercurey, Givry and Montagny. des Crémants runs for 75 miles through bubbly THE TABLE OF COMTE SÉNARD, Aloxe- The wine road here follows the more hilly Côte Châtillonnais wine country. Here yet again, a Corton A great place for deepening your Chalonnaise. It’s 62 miles of beautiful landscapes great many wineries enhance the journey. knowledge of Côte de Beaune wines. With your that can be appreciated by bike, by boat or along feet practically in the grapevines, your wine tasting a greenway (voie verte). and lunch involve two sommeliers, only for you, whose focused purpose is to discuss the wines. THE ROUTE DES VINS www.domainesenard.com IN THE + Fast Facts DOMAINE BROCARD near Chablis The Yonne is spanned by national route 6, a With 100 appellations – of which 33 are This famous Chablis domain offers private wine legendary road that once, during the hostel grands crus – and an annual Burgundy production appears small tastings plus dinner in a wine cellar. Oenological heyday, guided holidaygoers from to their of 200 million bottles, discovery and good times are shared over a on the world stage (only 3% of the production of all typical Burgundian meal. www.brocard.fr vacation destinations. Its 160 miles traverse French wines). And yet, its wines are some of the several vineyards and hundreds of wineries in most sought-after. Vézelay, Chablis, Irancy, Tonnerre, and more. 10 11 MEALTIME Seeing Stars in Burgundy

12 13 MEALTIME SOME REGIONAL SPECIALITIES WORTH A DETOUR Moutarde Fallot Seeing Stars in Burgundy 100% Burgundian Bœuf Charolais Marc Désarménien, head of Fallot mustard, Since 2010, Charolais beef has been an AOC an artisanal enterprise that’s the last of its kind, product too. The AOC zone includes Charolais Burgundians love their food. As much as they love their wine. It’s much produces 100% Burgundian mustard, meaning and Brionnais, the cradle of the Charolais cattle more than a tradition; it’s a religion! There isn’t a village that doesn’t have with seeds grown in Burgundy (not Canada). breed, covering four departments in Burgundy, but Since 2004, Burgundian mustard has been a PGI pushing toward the Loire and the Rhone as well. a special dish or ingredients. No matter where we went, we couldn’t help (protected geographical indication). There is also a soft Charolais goat cheese that but note the passion for the fresh produce cultivated with abandon throughout www.fallot.com has been AOC since 2010. the region. In Burgundy, there’s no better time than mealtime! www.boeufdecharolles.fr www.aoc-charolais.com

Other Notable Products BURGUNDY IS SEEING STARS - 33 OF THEM! and Recipes from Burgundy 33 stars, 33 macarons: Burgundy is one of the regions of with the Anis de Flavigny; Cassis de Dijon (especially the my most Michelin stars. Kir®, a brand belonging to Lejay-Lagoute); a wide variety of cheeses, like Epoisses, Brillat-Savarin faves Newcomers to the Michelin club in 2014 and 2015 are: l’Aspérule (Auxerre); Loiseau des and Ami du Chambertin; Aligoté wine, which, Ducs (Dijon); Le Jardin des Remparts (Beaune); Ed. Em (Chassagne-Montrachet); La thanks to Bouzeron, is the only AOC product Marande (); Auberge du Paradis (Saint-Amour Bellevue); and Au 14 février (Saint-Amour Bellevue). in France from this grape variety; pôchouse (a traditional river-fish recipe from Verdun-sur-le- Doubs); œufs en meurette (eggs poached in a red- wine sauce reduction); marbled ham; Burgundy snails; bœuf bourguignon; and gougères (cheese in choux pastry). Find more products at www.burgundy-tourism.com

Volaille de The Only AOC Poultry in France It is the pride of the region. With distinctive blue feet, white feathers and a red crest, the Bresse chicken is the celebrity of local products. This unique poultry, dignified as an AOC (“controlled designation of origin”) is deserving of its preferential treatment. Its tender flesh is sought after by foodies and cooks. It is even the subject of a traditional festival, Les Glorieuses de Bresse, held annually in December. Bresse is notably also home to several other AOC products, like Bresse cream and Bresse butter. www.pouletbresse.com www.aoc-creme-beurre-bresse.fr

14 15 CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE MEALTIME MARKET MARKET NIÈVRE MARKETS SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE On Friday, at the heart of the city, opposite the There are two market scenes in Nevers: the cathedral on Place Saint-Vincent, the Chalon- covered one from Tuesday to Friday; the Saturday sur-Saône market draws crowds of producers, outdoor one on Place Carnot. www.nevers.fr especially from nearby Bresse. I jumped at the opportunity to visit www.chalon.fr this city of art and history, and to go to the Espace Bernadette Soubirous NOYERS-SUR- spiritual center. MARKET YONNE MÂCON MARKET All of these markets can be found at SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE www.burgundy-tourism.com A very nice market in a charming Medieval (click on “to do, to see”). city. The truffle growers gather every year in This enormous outdoor market occupies the November to sell their Tuber uncinatum (the Quai Lamartine every Saturday morning. Count Burgundy truffle). on many small regional producers and a great I love this village. It’s one of the atmosphere on the banks of the Saône. The people of Mâcon often meet at the TRIP most beautiful in France! PLAN www.noyers-et-tourisme.com Café Lamartine on the waterfront. ADD www.macon-tourism.com TO MY DIARY DIJON MARKET A Monday Morning Around SAINT-CHRISTOPHE- CÔTE-D’OR Walk through this famous market GOURMET FESTIVALS EN-BRIONNAIS MARKET 9:00 AM > IN BURGUNDY reputed for its Bresse chicken. There’s an incredible The market hall is the pride of the people of SAÔNE-ET-LOIRE atmosphere in this “remarkable taste site” (“site remarquable du goût”). Stop beneath the arcades to Dijon who flock here every Tuesday, Friday > Ascension Weekend buy a corniotte (a shortcut pastry that looks a lot like and Saturday. www.dijon.fr Gourmand Days (Journées gourmandes) of the Cadran Brionnais is a regional institution that Grand and Burgundy Region a gougère), a typical Louhans pastry. specializes in breeding Charolais cattle. Since 1488, (21210) www.saulieu.fr 11:30 AM > Grab a quick aperitif in the market near

it hosts a weekly gathering of regional farmers and the old Louhans market hall.

Eiffel, who was from Dijon. from was who Eiffel, > Early August traders. suggestive of the work of work the of suggestive 12:30 PM > Lunch at Chaudron à Ratte. I gave

Snail Festival (Fête de l’escargot)

But the market halls era halls market the But www.cadran-brionnais.fr in to temptation and tried the volaille de Bresse with Not Gustave Eiffel. Gustave Not (71160) www.fete-escargot.org Quick quiz who cream and morels; Paul ordered frogs’ legs “cooked

question: Weinberger. Clément It’s like in the Dombes.”www.lechaudron-restaurant.fr > Third weekend in August The weekly Wednesday-afternoon designed the Dijon 3:00 PM > Visit the Ferme du Devant, a Bresse market hall? Charolais Festival (La fête du Charolais) auction and traditional market make Saulieu (21210) www.saulieu.fr for an unusual (guided) visit not chicken house. Check out the only gallinaceous bird to to be missed! have received an AOC in France! > From 1 to 13 November www.ferme-ledevant.fr Gastronomy Fair (Foire gastronomique) 5:00 PM > Not far away at the Grange Rouge in

BEAUNE MARKET Dijon (21000) www.foirededijon.com Chapelle Naude, take a cooking class with a focus CÔTE-D’OR MARKET on regional produce. Every summer, the flea market > November YONNE at the Grange Rouge attracts a crowd of bargain Every Saturday, the market hall of Beaune, Truffle Market (Marché aux truffes) hunters. I’ll be back!www.lagrangerouge.org Noyers sur Serein (89310) which also hosts the famous Hospices de 7:00PM > Fall asleep in a sublime guesthouse, Ferme www.noyers-et-tourisme.com Held every Monday all day, and Friday and de Marie-Eugénie. Dinner with Marie-Eugénie. Beaune wine auction, comes alive with local Saturday mornings in the spectacular market This Burgundian cuisine is a real treat.... producers. What a lively market, a > Mid-December hall. www.tourisme-sens.com http://bnb.lafermedemarieeugenie.fr visit to which often ends with a Les Glorieuses de Bresse coffee on Place Carnot! Louhans (71500) www.beaune-tourism.com www.glorieusesdebresse.com www.bourgogne-tourisme.com

16 17 HERITAGE A Land Blessed by the Gods

Vézelay

18 19 Dijon’s Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy HERITAGE A Land Blessed by the Gods A word of advice: set aside the whole afternoon for a deep plunge into the cathedral, I was immediately struck by a buoyant the old town and the museum. sense of freedom in Burgundy. Here, for untold ages, nature, history and art have truly come together, whether as small charming villages or in the biggest cities such as Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, La Charité- : Roman and romanesque sur-Loire, Dijon, Beaune, Vézelay and A Romanesque city jewel at the gates of Morvan Solutré. Regional Natural Park. I can’t pull myself away from this sister and rival city to Rome. www.autun-tourisme.com NOT TO BE DIJON: Art and Style MISSED At the entrance to the capital city of Burgundy, Flavigny-sur-Ozerain: my a sign sets the tone: “Dijon, City of Art and Old Stones, Anise and Chocolate faves History.” Since July 2015, its historic centre A darling little medieval village nestled in Auxois. has even been classified by UNESCO as a Brancion World Heritage site under the classification of the Climats! Open wide your eyes and your mouth, as this is where Juliette Binoche and Johnny Depp A pretty medieval village perched on a rocky outcrop It’s a very fitting description. From the most famous sites, like the mansions filmed the movie “Chocolat.” To keep children’s a few miles from . (word has it that there are at least 150) and the Palace of the Dukes of complaints to a minimum during a stroll, tell them www.brancion.fr Burgundy (wow, the Salle des États is just stunning!), to the much more you’re at the heart of where the anise-flavored “modern” attractions, such as the Museum of Fine Arts, which just went Anis de Flavigny candy is manufactured. through an incredible renovation – everywhere you look, art and history www.anis-flavigny.com Alésia rub shoulders, each an affirmation of the other. I love it! Much ink has been spilled about the Battle of Alésia. Alise-Sainte-Reine promises a pleasant I continued my enjoyment Chalon-sur-Saône, Auxerre, Muséoparc that welcomes both children and in the little newly-opened gastropub la Charité-sur-Loire, Nevers: adults to relive history. close to the museum. Water may not necessarily come to mind when you www.alesia.com www.mba.dijon.fr think of Burgundy, but it flows through more than 750 miles of canals and rivers as an integral part BEAUNE: Wine Capital of Burgundy of the region. There’s little doubt that Burgundy’s Bibracte charming towns exhibit qualities of casual calm This major attraction is an unforgettable It has also been classified by UNESCO as a World Heritage site, under similar to those of other waterside towns. archeological site with special appeal to anyone my the classification of the Climats, since July 2015! www.achalon.com/Tourisme keen on Celtic civilization. faves Completely surrounded by vineyards, Beaune literally keeps watch over its wines. Greg www.ot-auxerre.fr www.bibracte.fr took us to visit the Hospices de Beaune, now with a newly restored roof. This building, www.lacharitesurloire-tourisme.com which served as the set for “La Grande Vadrouille” (a famous French comedy film released www.nevers-tourisme.com in the U.S. as “Don’t Look Now... We’re Being Shot At!”), once provided succor to the Saint-Étienne de Sens Cathedral poor. How could anyone resist the appeal of this historic From there, as we strolled through the center of town, I felt like I was moving back in Noyers-sur-Serein: monument, the first Gothic cathedral in the history time. The wine culture, including Beaune’s famous trading The best truffles and markets! of Christianity? houses, made an indelible mark on this beautiful bourgeois Next year, I’m setting aside This is one of the most beautiful villages in France. www.tourisme-sens.com city. Even hidden beneath the streets, hundreds of wine the third weekend of November It’s an idyllic setting for a romantic and gastronomic cellars all connect into an endless maze, part of a real to be in Beaune for the parallel universe. prestigious Hospices de Beaune getaway. www.noyers-et-tourisme.com www.beaune-tourisme.fr wine auction.

20 21

I’ve never been able to resist a good HERITAGE castle. All along our route, + we discovered little historical gems. Fast Facts CASTLES Burgundy has four UNESCO World Heritage Sites: > Abbey of Fontenay in Côte-d’Or Even Paul, who’s no fan > Vézelay Church and Hill in the Yonne of old stone, didn’t mind > Priory of Notre-Dame de la Charité-sur-Loire in the going out of his way. Nièvre > The Climats of the Burgundy wine growing region Seven villages in Burgundy have been labeled as Ville d’Art et d’Histoire (Towns of Art and

CORMATIN GUÉDELON History): A LOVELY CASTLE LOST A GRAND PROJECT > Autun > Auxerre > Chalon-sur-Saône IN A MAZE OF GARDENS > Charité-sur-Loire > Dijon > Nevers > Joigny Our friends told us lots about Guédelon, an They join three Pays d’Art et d’Histoire (Lands of In Saône-et-Loire, not far from , I indulged incredible worksite where the goal is to build a Art and History): > Pays de l’Auxois > Pays Charolais-Brionnais my whims. Between two vineyard strolls, I proper medieval castle using the methods and > Pays entre Cluny et Tournus stopped by ! I loved losing myself in materials of the times. I was so curious I had to see TRIP PLAN the rooms of this 17th-century former seigneurial it from up close. It’s amazing how much has been IN SOLUTRÉ residence. This castle embodies the full charm of accomplished since 1997. Guédelon has become the Renaissance. And what amazing gardens! a must-see site in the region. www.chateaudecormatin.com www.guedelon.fr A hint: lose yourself in the maze and imagine yourself in the France OTHER CASTLES WORTH 9:00 AM > Arrival in the village of Milly- of Louis XIII! CHÂTEAUNEUF-EN-AUXOIS CHECKING OUT Lamartine. Grabbed some coffee in the cafe on the main square. it’s just The light in the Valley must be seen to down 9:30 AM > Departure for Solutré the road be believed. High above, perched atop a rocky ANCY-LE-FRANC This true Renaissance outcrop, Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, one of the most palace, located in the Yonne, was designed by 9:45 AM > Start of the climb (after a beautiful villages in France, is a rare surviving Sebastiano Serlion, the celebrated Italian architect quick visit to the museum). ADD example of Burgundian military architecture. The of François I. I could hardly contain myself when fortress keeps watch over the Auxois region and 11:00 AM > Arrival at the top. The view TO MY DIARY I saw the 16th- and 17th-century painted murals. is indescribably magnificent; it takes your the Burgundy . Whether strolling through its www.chateau-ancy.com breath away. Enjoyed the panorama, narrow alleys, admiring the valley views or stopping including the twin rock of , before at a little crêperie – you can hardly go wrong! BURGUNDY IS REDISCOVERING ITS heading back down. MEDIEVAL ROOTS. www.region-bourgogne.fr/chateauneuf SULLY The Duchess of Magenta still lives in Saône-et-Loire and fights to preserve this 12:30 PM > Lunch at Auberge de Jack, 2, Starting in the spring, many festivals will be held incredible treasure. Children get pampered in place de l’Eglise à Milly-Lamartine throughout the region. this dreamlike world, where special events are 2:30 PM > While Paul headed off to the \/ It begins on the third weekend of May in Saint- organized in which kids play the heroes. Apollinaire’s Parc de la Redoute, following which is Domaine de la Soufrandière wine cellar at the Course de la Bague in Semur-en-Auxois over the www.chateaudesully.com Vinzelles, we departed for the Maison de Pentecost weekend. In Germolles the celebrations at Lamartine - easily reachable on foot, if Margaret Of Flander’s castle are stunning. desired - in the heart of the village. CHÂTEAU DE In the Morvan, www.bretbrothers.com \/ The full program in July includes the medieval a few miles from majestic Vézelay, go a little bit market of Châteauneuf-en-Auxois (biennial) with more than 80 costumed exhibitors, the Medieval Festivals of further for a real taste of natural 5:30 PM > Departure for our guesthouse, Couches take place July 14th. paradise. This imposing 12th- the Domaine de la Source aux fées, in Tomorrow Fuissé, for a well-deserved night of calm , Tonnerre brings to life the days of century castle was Vauban’s \/ In September home. The garden is a feast for evening, dinner surrounded by the charming Mâconnais Margaret of Burgundy. vineyards.www.lasourcedesfees.com the eyes. at the table d’hotes For more about festivals, see so that we can www.chateau-bazoches.com make the most of www.burgundy-tourism.com our stay.

(click on “events”). 22 23 BURGUNDY BY BOAT On the Waterways

24 25 THE BILLEBAUDE THE DELTA A CRUISE ON THE BURGUNDY CANAL BURGUNDY BY BOAT The chef’s got a surprise in store: a morning At the harbor office of Pouilly-en-Auxois, we took visit to Chalon-sur-Saône for a cruise lunch off on a solar-powered electric boat promenade. on a . It’s a 20-miles trip in 3½ hours On the Waterways It was a two-hour tour done in perfect tranquility. during which to take in the unforgettable views Between Pouilly and Escommes or of Chalon and environs from the panorama (and then back) we crossed the “Voûte de Pouilly,” room. One-way cruises are also an option a two-mile boat tunnel with 12 ventilation for travel to Tournus et Verdun sur- We let ourselves get carried away shafts. The crew will stow up to eight le-Doubs. by the canals and discovered a bikes on board, making the cruises a www.croisieres-saonoises.fr whole different Burgundy, one perfect way to connect water-based that’s silent and restful. Along tourism with two-wheeling. www.cap-canal.fr EXCURSION the 600 miles of rivers and THE LATÉRAL canals, this other Burgundy Once a month since 2013, BOATS revealed one of its most appealing there’s a meal aboard the During a 90-minute cruise on the Billebaude. Next time we’ll Canal Latéral à la Loire (channel facets: a natural, water-based jump at the chance! alongside the Loire), we discovered tourism that set us at our ease. the canal aqueduct, surrounding villages and unspoiled countryside of this corner of Burgundy. THE HIRONDELLE II Oh the joys of combining gastronomy and The boat can also discovery! The Hirondelle II, in Auxerre, was be used for events: standing by for an effortless glide on the Yonne business meeting, and the Nivernais Canal, punctuated by the locks. marriages and birthdays. TRAVERSE THE TUNNELS OF LA COLLANCELLE www.bateauxauxerrois.com I need to give that some thought! my by Solar-Powered Electric Boat I’d been told that the Nivernais Canal is These cruise boats with faves described as one of the most beautiful in France. solar-powered electric This is hardly an exaggeration. We followed its flow aboard our solar-powered motors are an awesome electric vessel, gliding in the wake of the raftsmen who long ago used it to invention. They’re the deliver wood to Parisians. The high points were the passage through the perfect way to float along seven locks of Sardy and going through the tunnels of La Collancelle. in perfect silence and www.aquafluvial.fr without pollution.

A CRUISE on the New Locaboat Yachts I am a total philistine when it comes to boats, but according to the my experts, the Linssen brand is the European standard when it comes to faves pleasure crafts. As soon as we boarded a Linssen Grand Sturby 34.9, I was sold! It’s the Maserati of yachts: the luxury standard-bearer of the fleet, complete with a kitchen, living room (with sofa and table) and even an office for four to six people. We left from Joigny, but other points of departure include , , Saint-Léger-sur-Dheune and Loisy. www.locaboat.com

26 27 www.bargeaprestout.com Burgundy Canal. you needforapleasingtripof several daysonthe with three cabinsandaJacuzzi.It’s everything equipped house floating 125-foot a barge, their We were invitedtojoin Caroline etRoryMacraeon There’s evenaJacuzzi! www.peniche-magnolia.fr a living/diningroom andterraces. room full-comfortbargewithprivatebathrooms, we were drawn into the water’s flow by this three- On theBurgundyCanal,startinginEscommes, www.edgecharter.com out, whetherit’s vineyards orcastles. stories andguidedtours.Heknowsthearea inside is anexcellentchef,andalsogenerous withbothhis the Yonne. Passionate aboutBurgundy, theowner gastronomic Canaland excursionontheNivernais The Randle’s Englishownerandhiscrew lead transfers toandfromParis! and monument visits, and sometimes even takes careofshoreexcursions,winecellar provided byalive-aboardteamthatalso and areusuallyallinclusive:fullboard holidays runtwotosevendaysinlength them intodistinctivelodgings.Barge havebeengivennewlifebyturning

RANDLE HOTELBARGERANDLE

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MAGNOLIA HOTEL BARGES BARGE HOTEL

With chef Caroline in the kitchen, quality is

guaranteed!

28

+ Bringing our bikes on board was a fantastic idea. What could be better than a “bike-barge” with friends! www.sntcruises.com immersion inthewaterwaysofregion. It’s true inflight. birds afew beyond traffic any Saône andtheCanalduCentre. There ishardly path isunimpededalongtheBurgundyCanal, We setoff todiscovertheheartofBurgundy. The

> > > > > > > > Burgundy has: Fast Facts 19 rivercruiseshipsinthe“Rhône-Saône” basin 30 hotelbarges(Americansaccount for65% 10 cruiseboats,ofwhichfourhaveonboard 340 houseboatsin27boat-hire bases a 3,000-boatcapacity 52 moorings 42 marinas,suchasSaint-Jean-de-, More than600milesofnavigablewaterways, of all overnights), themostinFrance of allovernights), meal service the largestinlandpleasure portinFrance including 12canalsandrivers

CAPRICE BARGECAPRICE

www.canalous-bourgogne.com gorgeous cruisethrough theheartofNièvre! steering platform and two positions. Count on a practically pilotthemselves, with asingle-lever You don’t needaboatinglicense.Theseships session, there Iwas,captainofmyownship! of Châtillon-en-Bazois.)Afteronequicktraining port. (IhadaweaknessfortheMorvanbasedout my choiceofwaterway, destinationandhome make was do to had I All fireplace). a or pool a the comfortsofhome(including,insomecases, week. Someofthemare likereal abodeswithall for rent forasshortaweekendorlong In Burgundythere are more than300houseboats BY HOUSEBOAT BURGUNDY

29

Festiv’Halles en eaux in . in eaux en Festiv’Halles

Bidon in Clamecy, Ligériades in Digoin and and Digoin in Ligériades Clamecy, in Bidon

Saint-Jean-de-Losne, Joutes et Descente Descente et Joutes Saint-Jean-de-Losne,

traditions, including Pardon des Mariniers in in Mariniers des Pardon including traditions,

to revive interest in sailors’ and raftsmen’s raftsmen’s and sailors’ in interest revive to

Every summer there are many events helping helping events many are there summer Every

www.bourgogne-rivages.com www.bourgogne-rivages.com

is the new website dedicated dedicated website new the is

to Burgundy’s waterways Burgundy’s to

For more information, more For

TO MY DIARY MY TO ADD ADD

BURGUNDY BY BOAT BURGUNDY BY BIKE Freewheeling

30 31 We don’t go anywhere without a NOT BURGUNDY BY BIKE map. I even bought the Canal Freewheeling du Nivernais Michelin topoguide. TO BE MISSED

All the Maps and Topoguides Needed EuroVelo 6 At every possible opportunity, I parked for Easy Pedaling For the stout of heart, there’s a European route that my car and took to the many Don’t worry, you won’t miss a thing. With the crosses Burgundy: EuroVelo 6 connects Nantes to greenways and bicycle routes along Bourgogne à vélo (Burgundy by Bike) map, the Budapest. Within Burgundy, it runs from Nevers Tour de Bourgogne à vélo par les voies vertes to Chalon-Sur-Saône and then runs alongside the the canals and rivers, through the (Bike Tour of Burgundy by Greenways) topoguide Saône River to Saint-Jean-de-Losne. vineyards or in the shadows of the and even the Vélibook for the Burgundy Canal, www.eurovelo6.org castles. Moving at my own pace, most of the region is covered. I discovered a whole different www.michelin-boutique.com www.francevelotourisme.com Cycle Tourists’ Best Friend: Burgundy. www.la-bourgogne-a-velo.com Add this address to your favorites and check out The Cyclists-Welcome Happy Holiday the new sections: www.burgundy-by-bike.com Guarantee Accueil Vélo (Cyclists Welcome) is a national The maps on the site are brand established in 2013. It’s an easy way to excellent, complete with itineraries, THE VINEYARD WAY: Two-for-One Fun! identify places that know how to take care of nearby services and lots of two-wheelers. What better guarantee is there for useful information. They can my From Beaune, the wine capital of Burgundy, we cycle tourists seeking a high-quality welcome and be downloaded or added to your pedaled for almost 14 miles along this pretty services adapted to their needs? GPS. Fantastically convenient! faves bike route. It was intoxicating and disorienting. Awesome green logo with the little We felt so privileged to ride through the hearts of such prestigious wine cyclist on it! villages: Pommard, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet. www.burgundy-by-bike.com

Special little hint for any sporty types: in the evening in Beaune, taste some wine and enjoy a romantic night at the Clos de la Challangette, a guesthouse that knows how to welcome cyclists (see Accueil Vélo, below). www.clos-challangette.com www.burgundy-by-bike.com - Section Itineraries - The Vineyard Way

BURGUNDY BY ELECTRIC BIKE, or How to Pedal with Ease Bikers in Burgundy have a bounty of routes from which to choose: the my Voies Vertes® of southern Burgundy, the Nivernais Canal, the Burgundy faves Canal, the Canal du Centre. In Châteauneuf, I discovered that I could rent electric bikes. Now we could even enjoy the most scenic routes, taking in views of the castles, vineyards and canals. http://waterfallcircuit.com Those e-bikes put wind beneath our wings and lifted us to lofty perched castles. From such high places, the views over the whole Auxois valley are absolutely splendid. 32 33 NIVERNAIS CANAL IN THE WAKE OF THE RAFTSMEN

The Nivernais Canal is the best way to get a full BIKE BY BURGUNDY blast of nature for three days. Between Decize and Auxerre, we discovered the canal’s confluence with + the Loire River, the vaults of La Collancelle and the ADD Fast Facts series of locks of Sardy (no problem by bike!), and TO MY DIARY THE TRAVEL MAGAZINE AFAR we admired the Valley of the Yonne. Many bascule has selected Burgundy as the best bridges and brightly colored -keepers’ houses vineyard bicycle tourism destination enlivened the route. Never a dull moment! THE BURGUNDY BIKE EVENT NOT in the world. The wheels really seem www.canal-du-nivernais.com TO BE MISSED IS VÉLOTOUR, to be turning for “Burgundy by Bike”! TAKING PLACE IN DIJON IN Along the way, we took a detour to EARLY SEPTEMBER. Canal de Bourgogne the “eternal hill” of Vézelay. It was all about adding a touch of culture to This is your chance to pedal through museums, our trip through so much nature. Plus libraries and more. It’s a cool and different way there was no way we could skip this to experience the city. BY BIKE BURGUNDY CANAL UNESCO World Heritage Site. In www.velotour.fr ALONG THE WATERWAYS THE “ROYAL” ROAD gratitude, I treated my friends to a drink! Burgundy is crisscrossed by waterways and their Over the course of three days, we followed 85 towpaths are set aside for two-wheelers: the miles of the Burgundy Canal. Starting in Dijon, we Nivernais Canal, the Canal du Centre, the Canal wound our way through the Ouche Valley. After Latéral à la Loire (channel alongside the Loire) pedaling near Alésia and the Abbey of Fontenay, and the Burgundy Canal. Once used by , we finished with a spin through the Tonnerrois these paths have been restored and upgraded to vineyards. Of course, we made the obligatory visit meet modern needs. Oh wait, I almost to the Fosse Dionne, one of France’s largest and forgot the Voie Bleue (Blue Way), most curious springs. www.bag-transfert.com TRIP PLAN which now runs along the Saône from Paul didn’t want us to have to lug Mâcon to Tournus and soon as far as our bags the length of the canal. Chalon. Fortunately, I found the perfect solution: a luggage delivery service The Greenway to the Gates of Southern Burgundy all along the way. … AND THE RAIL-TRAIL The best! 10:00 AM > Arrival at Iguérande, in 2:00 PM > Continue on to , FROM CLUNY TO MÂCON Brionnais. Admire the 9th- to 10th- not at all far away. century Romanesque church. 2:30 PM > While Paul visited the Greg promised me an amazing route: a trail THE MISSING LINK 10:30 AM > Jump on bikes and pedal to Musée de la Voiture à Cheval (Carriage designed for bikes in 1997 that follows the path FROM NEVERS TO DECIZE Marcigny along the banks of the Loire. Museum), I lingered in and browsed of an old rail line. This was France’s first Voie through the Emile Henry store, coming Verte® (Greenway)! From Cluny to Mâcon, it’s Between the Loire by Bike and Burgundy by Bike 12:00 PM > Picnic lunch along the Loire away with some souvenirs of its ceramic an easy glide, whether by bike or on skates. The just before Marcigny. Delight in the ovenware and cooking utensils. there used to be a gap of about 18 miles. Not any rugged countryside and preserved nature, www.emilehenry.com best part of the trip, near Cluny, was the Tunnel more. This section is open. Between Nevers and a superb landscape very different from du Bois Clair, a former rail tunnel now seasonally Decize: the green rolling hills of the Nivernais, and everything seen thus far. 5:00 PM > Take a short gourmet break open to cycle tourists. The one-mile passage goes the little villages and their to taste chocolate at Bernard Dufoux in over the Bois Clair col and, frosting on an already Romanesque churches. . tasty cake, takes you to within sight of the castle We can’t wait www.chocolatsdufoux.com at Berzé. Nothing but the best! to explore this Next time we’ll try the new section new greenway! between Marcigny and , not far from the river Loire it is safe and easy! 34 35 ADRENALINE Natural Energy

36 37 NOT ADRENALINE TO BE MISSED

Natural Energy Take a “Mobilboard” Roll Ride a Moped Through the Vineyards in Beaune’s Vineyards Let’s be honest: this isn’t a short Segway tour. We had a lot of fun on these retro machines. Our Go a little crazy, reach for the sky (in a hot air balloon) and flirt with I’m talking about an off-road trip on Segways built Solex mopeds steered true along the famous the elements in places of great natural beauty. Try adventuring in an old for all terrains, even extreme ones. Gone are the Route des Grands Crus wine road. A perfect – and rock quarry, waterskiing on a lake in Mâconnais, riding a Segway through easy paved roads; we ended up traipsing through vintage – way to discover the Beaune region at just vineyard backroads from Beaune to Dijon. It was a the right speed, so I could enjoy the scenery. the vineyards or taking a long eco-conscious paddle. truly unique experience in the midst of great wines. http://baptisteguyot.wix.com/baptisteguyot We were reassured that the rides are supervised. www.mobilboard.com/beaune It was like being 18 all CHAMP RETARD Grotto over again! The 48-foot-high vaults are a my backdrop for adventure trails unlike faves anywhere else in France. Try climbing up the walls of the quarry, gripping the stone itself. It’ll make your head spin. For years, the quarry was the source of white rock used in the construction of Paris’ most beautiful buildings. And here we are clinging to the real rock face. It’s madness! www.grottechampretard.com The first Friday of every month, a fireside Burgundian picnic takes place and the adventure trails are open at night. Awesome!

Crazy Race in Dijon- + Paul had always dreamed of a race car. Fast Facts Mission accomplished! In a Ferrari F430 (there A NEW KIND OF LEISURE AREA HAS OPENED A Traverse of the Morvan BY MOUNTAIN BIKE was also a Lamborghini Gallardo), he headed out IN VANDENESSE-EN-AUXOIS. Climb into the and set off on 205 miles of elation and elevation on this on the legendary Dijon-Prenois racing circuit, a my French Cycling Federation trail. The Grande Traversée du Morvan, aka GTM, traverses course that has been used for Formula 1 Grand Waterfallcircuit is a 1½-acre ecological area that combines sport with relaxation. To take it easy, the Morvan from to Autun, taking in Saulieu and the great lakes of the regional Prix races. It’s something he’ll never forget. faves there’s a cascade of clear water, grass beaches nature park. Paul hopes to come back and see one and playgrounds. To kick into a higher gear, there’s www.morvanvtt.fr - http://tourisme.parcdumorvan.org/ of the main events on the circuit, like a sports circuit specially designed for a “fun bike,” the Trophée Historique de France in an electric two-wheeler that can reach speeds I loved the little services provided all along the way, like the bike April or the Coupes Moto Légendes of 30 mph. washing stations and interconnected accommodations that transfer That’s in June. baggage between them. And when you complete the itinerary, www.circuit-dijon-prenois.com www.waterfallcircuit.com there’s even a shuttle that brings you back to the start. class!

38 39 FIRMLY WITH FEET

TIME TO ON THE IN THE ADRENALINE HEAD UP GROUND WATER AND LET GO Burgundy is so diverse that it offers an Burgundy knows how to leverage its wine, but abundance of hikes of different styles: the water has also played a huge part in building spiritual paths from Paray-le-Monial to Cluny the region’s history and shaping its landscape. I did it! I climbed into the basket of the hot and from Vézelay to La Charité-sur-Loire; And Burgundians know full well how that vast natural sites in the Morvan and the to exploit its potential. air balloon and reveled in the 360-degree Mâconnais; and strolls in the vineyards of the view of Burgundy. We floated for 90 When we landed, a glass Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits wines. minutes over vineyards and groves in a of crémant was waiting for WATERSKI AT WAKEBOARD state of blissful calm. us, along with a certificate PARK LE LAC commemorating our flight! HIKING IN THE MORVAN: A MUST I know how to use the chair lift when we go snow There are more than 900 miles of blazed trails skiing, but not the one on a lake! I discovered this through the one massif of the Morvan, a lush new system in Mâcon, in southern Burgundy, where FRANCE MONGOLFIÈRES nature preserve. We hiked along the GR de Pays I was able to try some new sports. I was attached to THE SPECIALIST (Tour du Morvan) trail and admired the great lakes. a cable suspended about 30 feet in the air and then It’s the perfect place to enjoy the serenity and pulled faster and faster. The skiing sensation was so It was a very difficult choice: fly over the eternal beauty of the forests. We asked a professional amazing that I felt like I actually took to the air! hill of Vézelay to admire the famous basilica, a guide to come with us. ADD www.lelac.fr UNESCO (and Morvan) World Heritage Site, or http://tourisme.parcdumorvan.org/ take in Beaune’s vineyards and picturesque TO MY DIARY villages. All from above! THE ECOPADDLERS’ PATH www.franceballoons.com TAKE PART IN A TREASURE HUNT In early June, Chalon-sur-Saône hosts the THANKS TO GEOCACHING The ecopaddlers concept is great! Paul was Montgolfiades, a memorable delighted to do some canoeing while I, using a and high-spirited gathering. GeoCaching is an awesome idea. It’s a real treasure GPS and an audio guide, was able to relax a bit hunt adapted to the outdoors using GPS devices. BEAUNE MONGOLFIÈRES and contemplate the flora, fauna and heritage of This ballooning and wine festival brings Participants go to specific coordinates and search SEE VINEYARDS FROM THE SKY together 50 balloons from all across Europe the Loire. There are eight ecopaddler itineraries for the geocache (a box) concealed there. When during the Pentecost weekend. in Burgundy, including the Loire, the Saône, the they find it, they sign the logbook and put it back in There’s nothing like a bird’s-eye view to Burgundy Canal and the lakes of the Morvan. www.montgolfiades71.com the box. They can also take an item that they find understand the wines of Burgundy. Our vessel www.canoekayak-bourgogne.fr floated above the legendary wine lands and in the cache and replace it with another of equal helped us come to grips with the peculiar notions or greater value of “clos” and “climats.” www.geocaching.com WHITEWATER ACTIVITIES A night flight is not to be missed! AIR ESCARGOT IN THE MORVAN THE « BOURGOGNE RANDO VIGNES » A magical moment! NEW In the midst of the forest and granite rocks of the One of the hot air balloon pioneers in Burgundy (in MOBILE APP. www.beaune-montgolfiere.fr Morvan, the clear waters of the cut a 13-mile business since 1979), Air Escargot organizes daily www.montgolfiere-en-bourgogne.fr This downloadable app suggests walks through path used by those who love whitewater activities. flights for individuals and groups the vineyards, helping visitors enjoy the authentic For anyone with lots of experience, the , around Nuits-Saint-Georges, natural environment and better understand the a tributary of the Cure, runs wilder, a tumultuous Beaune and Chalon-sur-Saône. I LOVE BALLOON wines of Burgundy. torrent, between the dam at Chaumeçon and www.air-escargot.com Crescent Lake. For beginners, the rapids of the Paul spotted www.cotedor-tourisme.com/bourgogne/ Truite are a perfect and safe place to sample the Our hot air balloon flight over the groves the medieval site randovignes and Saint-Fargeau castle of la Puisaye of Guédelon. pleasures of waterskiing. left me with unforgettable memories. It’s Spectacular, even www.burgundy-tourism.com incredible how green Burgundy is! from afar. (click on “Must see tourist attractions”) www.montgolfieres-i-love-balloon.com

40 41 GOOD FITNESS: “CHIC AND LUXURY” SPAS: GET BACK IN SHAPE RELAX IN A ZEN ATTITUDE AND LET GO Let Yourself MAGNIFICENT SETTING CELTÔ GO THE SPA OF THE HOSTELLERIE Unbutton in Burgundy Special Water for Wellbeing ... DU CHAPEAU ROUGE In Bourbon-Lancy, the beneficial qualities This former post-house is practically of the water have been noted since an institution. William Frachot, its two- antiquity. Celtô specializes in wellbeing star chef, completely modernized it and fitness, a perfect program for a body made sore according to today’s expectations, including adding The paths of Burgundy often lead by a unforgiving world. I let myself be tempted a spa. This is an excellent place for an by an Oriental facial treatment. www.celto.fr overwhelmed tourist like me. The hydro- us into the vineyards. It’s a massaging showers are just right, along perfect setting for unwinding, taking RELAX’SEL… with the hammam, sauna and the aperitifs! a moment for a cocooning break. Relaxing in a Cave of Salt from Poland www.chapeau-rouge.fr All that between two gastronomic A break in the action for a real detox, but this adventures, of course. time in a cave... of salt in Pouilly-Fumé country. RELAIS BERNARD LOISEAU There we were, snuggled into a relaxing recliner, I have always dreamed of stopping in chez Bernard wrapped in a soft fleece blanket and tucked into Loiseau, a legendary figure of . LA FRUITITHÉRAPIE®, cave of salt mined from Wieliczka, Poland. As a His Relais de Saulieu opened its doors on to an little bit of background, halotherapy (a salt- enchanted world: a cocoon inspired by Burgundian Gathering Strength based therapy) is a natural cure that’s been materials: tiled floors, pillars made from regional In the midst of Meursault’s NOT practiced for centuries in Central Europe and rock, plaster walls, orange gold. The sauna set my vineyards, the Château de North America. A half hour in the salt cave in cedar woods and a few short swims in faves Cîteaux, a sumptuous and aristo- TO BE MISSED is said to have the same effect as a weekend this mineral atmosphere added 10 years to cratic residence, is now a hotel. And by the sea! www.relaxsel.fr my life. www.bernard-loiseau.com it has opened its doors to Fruitithérapie®, a spa Letting Go in the Spa of Saint-Georges treatment using red berries from Burgundy in Chalon-sur-Saône SAINT-HONORÉ-LES-BAINS that are rich in antioxidants, vitamins and trace A Spa in the Morvan I was mentally transported in the spa of the elements. The view over the vineyards is just This is the thermal spa of choice. In a magnificent Hôtel Saint-Georges by the fragrances, hushed magnificent. www.lacueillette.com TRIP PLAN atmosphere, calm location and the treatments. Neoclassical setting, I feel like Paul went back and forth between the I’m writing these I’m suddenly in the 1900s. in the pool, Jacuzzi and hammam, while I opted I had 45 minutes of near nirvana few lines seated on Since Gallo-Roman times, the Chatillonnais for a massage. with this flower-based treatment. a bench in park full arsenical and sulfurous waters Unadulterated joy! www.le-saintgeorges.fr of century-old trees. have been known to ease res- From here I have piratory conditions and other been contemplating the forms of rheumatism. But I 10:00 AM > Head to Massingy on the Route LE SPA CÔTE COON Give Yourself over to the Domaine beauty of the place. think I’m more in the mood to du Crémant. Visit the OenoCentre and sample des Prés Verts near Saulieu sample the pleasures of the spa. some bubbly. of the Côte Saint-Jacques Find safe haven between Saulieu and Arnay-le- www.st-honore-les-bains.com 12:00 PM > Lunch in Bure-les-Templiers in Joigny Duc, right at the gates of Morvan Natural Regional at Le Sabot de Vénus. AFTERNOON > Visit of the Trésor de Vix in This paradise for gastronomes Park. After a moment of pampering in a Jacuzzi with SPA BOURGOGNE my stunning views of the surrounding nature, hit the hay Vines and Wellbeing the Musée du Pays Châtillonnais. and overstressed urbanites is 4:00 PM > Return to the hotel, Le Château more than 8,500 square feet of in an eco-cabin perched atop tall stilts. In Beaune, wine capital of Burgundy, is faves www.domainedespresverts.fr . Go straight to the Sources du Verger pure delectation. There’s everything everywhere, even in the healthcare. The beneficial for a spa session. Try the caviar and grape here for proper pampering: a pool, Jacuzzi, properties of grapes, like antioxidant polyphenols seeds anti-aging prestige treatment. hammam, sauna, fitness room and treatment and a rich anti-radical pulp, have been known for 7:00 PM > Dinner at the hotel - a very room. And it’s all on the banks of the Yonne, in a centuries. With candlelight and gentle zen music, I romantic soirée - in this magnificent “Châteaux hotel belonging to Jean-Michel Lorain, a two-star let myself go with my ‘Grape, Source of Wellbeing’ Hôtels Collection.” What happens next is a Michelin chef. www.cotesaintjacques.com package. For my girlfriends, I will secret! We tried an “Ofuro double” bath followed recommend the Spa Girls treatments meant by Polynesian body sculpting. It was to be shared by a mother and daughter (10- a magic and romantic moment of pure 18 years old), which includes a “barrel http://routeducremant.fr - www.le-sabotdevenus.fr paradise! bath” of red grapes, a massage and a www.oenocentreampelopsis.magix.net facial. www.spa-en-bourgogne.com www.musee-vix.fr - www.chateaudecourban.com 42 43 Golf course of Chailly-sur-Armançon PUTTING GREEN Burgundy: Where Golf Is Natural

Perfectly integrated into their natural surroundings, the golf courses of Burgundy lie in wait among the forests and rivers. The Best Addresses CHAILLY-SUR-ARMANÇON IN GOLF COURSE: Natural Beauty GOLF I must be honest: I’m not really all that excited about golf. But, well, Greg insisted. my “You’ll see,” he said. “You’ll like it.” And as I’ve heard a lot about the Ouche Valley, it seemed like faves a good place to try it. How glad I was that I did, my friends! You should head there right now. This golf course is an absolute marvel. Set amid nature, MÂCON-LA SALLE GOLF COURSE OTHER GOLF COURSES TO CONSIDER its Renaissance castle casts a natural spell. I played through all 18 After the circuit, I slipped THE CRAZIEST holes with my eyes wide open, lulled by the sound of the Rubillon, the away for a visit of the castle. Château d’Avoise golf course in . stream that runs through the vast French-style park. This course comes with a big surprise. Its design No less than 300 acres await your strategy and www.chailly.com And then I went to recharge includes outlines of different parts of the female technique. Make sure you practice before you hit my batteries in the hotel’s body! It was the eccentric brain child of architect Jacuzzi and hammam. these magnificent 18-hole links. www.golf-avoise.net Roger Berthet. www.golfmacon.com The evening ended on a high note at GOLF JACQUES LAFFITE: the truly fantastic restaurant in Rue des The Benchmark TRIP DOMAINE DE RONCEMAY GOLF COURSE Abattoirs in . The chef is a AT AILLANT-SUR-THOLON Out in the countryside a short woman who’s crazy about good produce. PLAN LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION! my distance from Dijon, Golf Dijon Clairis golf course in Savigny-sur-Clairis. Bourgogne in Norges-la-Ville I filled my lungs with huge breaths of fresh air faves FOR THE NIVERNAIS- Perfect in summer, this course runs alongside an is one of the most beautiful during this 18-hole course. In the middle of a vast LE BARDONNAY oak forest. Clairis has all the mod cons required golf courses in the region! Another bonus forest, we played alongside five ponds before GOLF COURSE IN MAGNY-COURS for improving your game: a pro shop, clubhouse, for golfers: the indoor training and performance coming to ground on a broad plateau that looked 9:00 AM > Arrival at the Magny-Cours restaurant, driving range, putting green and center. It’s got everything you need to improve your and felt like Scottish links. This course wasn’t game: analysis, training, advice and equipment racecourse, where an early car race is planned. practice bunker. 11:00 AM > Head to Nevers to visit designed by just anyone, you know. Jean www.gaiaconceptgolfclairis.fr adapting. the artist’s quarter. Garaïalde, a former professional golfer, www.golf-dijon.fr 12:30 AM > Snacks and aperitifs at Une and Jeremy Pem, world-renowned “Blue Green” golf course of . Note de Vin (60 rue de Nièvre, Nevers), a architect and course designer. Total class! This 18-hole golf course is located within Dijon city simple but highly recommended wine cave and www.roncemay.com + restaurant. At Crochet, we tasted wines from limits. That makes it easy to hit a few balls after Fast Facts Sancerre. Just too good! touring in the capital of Burgundy. You’ve got all you LA ROSERAIE DE CHÂTENOY-EN-BRESSE need in this urban course at the heart of Mirande Diverse and efficient, there are no fewer 2:30 PM > Return to Magny-Cours, this time park’s greenery, including good attack angles than 20 golf courses in Burgundy, for its Nivernais golf course. GOLF COURSE ALL ABOUT ROSES 3:00 PM > Paul wants revenge on a golfing and fairways. www.quetigny.bluegreen.com 11 of which have 18 holes. buddy, but I’m happy to take a walk and For amateur botanists and flower lovers, there’s Don’t miss the chance to visit the catch some rays at the clubhouse. If I’m nothing better than this golf course, planted with 200 nearby little Biscuiterie Mistral store, Find all the information you need at feeling brave, I’ll work on my stroke on tree species and more than 25,000 feet of roses! www.burgundy-tourism.com the five-hole learning course. www.golfchalon.com which always has something to tantalize (click on the “to do, to see” tab). www.golf-du-nivernais.com A word of advice: the taste buds! go when the roses 44 are in full bloom. 45 LUXURY ACCOMMODATION Simply Sumptuous

All these abbeys, castles and bourgeois mansions speak to a clear sense of Burgundian elegance. Luxury too? Well yes, but one that respects history and heritage. LUXURY Everything to awaken in me the romantic that I am. ACCOMMODATION Simply Sumptuous RELAIS BERNARD LOISEAU: Magic at Work my It’s a legendary place in Burgundy. The personality and passion of Bernard Loiseau have made faves their mark on the history of la cuisine française and Dominique Loiseau carried forward this tradition of excellence. Today, Patrick Bertron, with his three Michelin stars, ensures respectful continuity with the restaurant’s classic dishes but also brings to them his own creative touch. The garden spa, outdoor pool, and grand and noble salons convince us to slow down and savor the moment. www.bernard-loiseau.com This is a unique and chic place without any ostentation. Luxury just like we love it! CHÂTEAU DE BESSEUIL: Royal Mâconnais No sooner had we passed the gates when I was completely wowed by this my incredible castle. What a majestic monument! faves Part of a picture of the past as only Burgundy can present it. Really, wow, what a castle! The renovation of this 16th-century structure was tackled by masters who understand the architecture and materials of the times. Luxury and authenticity now come together beautifully in this four-star hotel, part of the Château Hôtels Collection. Six spacious apartments are set in charming detail: French-style ceilings, private gardens, original fireplaces and exposed beams. Other rooms, more modern in style and with views over the vineyards, have been created in converted outbuildings. www.chateaudebesseuil.com When the sun sets over the Château de Gilly-les-Cîteaux Mâconnais vineyards and the swimming pool lights go on, the setting becomes simply heavenly.

46 47 Abbey of La Bussière-sur-Ouche NOT TO BE MISSED La Côte Saint-Jacques in Joigny Le Cep in Beaune This establishment is renowned for the cooking of For fans of French excellence, this is a trip back in its Michelin two-star chef, Jean-Michel Lorain. The time that I highly recommend. Steeped in history, luxury here is discreet, most notable in the décor this exceptional hotel is right at the beating heart of ACCOMMODATION LUXURY and the exactness of the staff. It strikes a delicate Beaune, a city made for wine lovers, gastronomes balance between simplicity and excellence. and culture vultures. Le Cep is anchored in two The big pluses of this hotel: the cuisine 16th-century landmark townhouses. It’s just of Jean-Michel Lorain, the indoor an amazing hotel with French-style pool with garden views and the superb ceilings and old-tile floors. We spent 8,600-square-foot spa. the night in a “boudoir”-style suite with www.cotesaintjacques.com a canopy bed! www.hotel-cep-beaune.com

Château de Vault de Lugny in the Yonne Hostellerie de Pure luxury in this magnificent, five-star, 16th- Right by Beaune century castle. Not to forget the incredible This essential Relais & Châteaux stopover inside swimming-pool in a vaulted for anyone passionate about wellbeing and room of the chateau and the gastronomic gastronomy has one Michelin star. restaurant... www.lugny.fr www.levernois.com

Grand Hôtel Dijon la Cloche Abbaye de la Bussière A Dijon Institution in the valley of the Ouche The history of the five-star Grand Hôtel, a Dijon Michelin one-star chef Emmanuel Hebrard has TRIP PLAN institution, dates back to 1884. With its crystal worked wonders in the gourmet restaurant of this in the Yonne Vineyards chandeliers, private garden, bar and plush lounges, Relais & Châteaux, a former abbey and spiritual it is a perfect evocation of the art of French living, place in the Ouche valley. especially the good life in Burgundy. Its luxurious www.abbayedelabussiere.fr guest rooms have been completely renovated. Our lunch in the Jardins de la Cloche 10:00 AM > Arrival at La Côte Saint- minerality of Chablis wines. has left me with fabulous memories of Château de Courban Jacques Relais & Châteaux in Joigny. Dijon! www.hotel-lacloche.fr in the Chatillonnais www.restaurant-chablis.fr We’ve booked a deluxe suite with a 3:00 PM > A break to allow for some It’s a proverbial home away from home – a dramatic view of the Yonne. digestion during a stroll through the special place, full of character, hidden in the 11:00 AM > Hostellerie Le Cèdre in Beaune Burgundy countryside near Châtillonnais Drive with our guide, Eric village. I couldn’t resist buying a The Definition of Refinement vineyards that produce a bubbly crémant. Pierre Szablowski of Au Cœur du Vin, in few local specialties in shops at the city This five-star establishment is located just a few Vandendriessche, the owner, is a former decorator his Citroën 2CV through the Chablis center. feet from Côte de Beaune vineyards right in the who has unleashed his joy in this boutique hotel. vineyards. He takes us to the Château EVENING > A taste of the chef’s center of the wine capital of Burgundy. It’s perfect Think garden strolls, relaxation around the pool, de Béru for tasting. incomparable cuisine. I insisted on ordering for a romantic break in an outstanding place where book time near the fireplace, nightfall. A noble www.aucoeurduvin.com and hospitable dwelling. the special sea-fresh terrine of oysters, wellbeing is king and I am queen. 1:00 PM > Lunch in Chablis at Au Bresse chicken steamed in champagne and www.lecedre-beaune.com www.chateaudecourban.com Fil du Zinc, Fabien Espana’s new the famous black pudding. It was an The gourmet restaurant is one of Beaune’s “bistronomique” about which we hear so most notable, now recognized by chef unforgettable and romantic dinner! Christophe Canati’s first Michelin star! many good things. It’s an awesome www.cotesaintjacques.com In the evening, I took a walk with place to continue discussions about the Paul around the famous Hôtel-Dieu. Oh what a night!

48 49 GLAM CHIC Glamor and No Fuss

It’s a marriage of style and famous places: castle suites, guesthouse holidays, revamped hotels, redesigned inns. Whether right in town or on a backroad, authenticity and contemporary elegance have come together in very sweet GLAM CHIC harmony. Glamor and No Fuss

Chablis and the Château de Béru: AUDACIOUS ELEGANCE The stage is set as soon as the my castle comes into view. faves It’s a 13th-century residence adrift in a sea of Chablis vineyards. It’s like being in a dream. Athénaïs and Laurence de Béru, our hosts, accompany us to a wing of the castle. We have a choice of rooms: “Lilas” (Lilac Purple), “Garance” (Bright Red) or “Havane” (Tan). We opt for “Lilas.” The old stones and tiles are a harmonious match with the fabrics, quilts and lamps. www.chateaudeberu.com

Athénaïs and Laurence had us taste their biodynamic wine, Clos Béru, replanted in 1987. Chablis wines are such a delight.

Along the Walls of Beaune: my MODERNITY AND SOPHISTICATION We travel to the wine capital of Burgundy on the delightful Nationale 74 faves (once a national road now known as departmental route 974) as it winds through the vines of the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune. Paul has reserved a room in a very central and charming 18th-century mansion. The residence subtly plays up its anachronisms, pitting its past against its It is also possible present. The exposed beams, fireplace and antique furniture of the large salon to rent made a strong impression on me. Given the choice between a large room and a the entire place! large suite, we fell for the suite “Côté cour.” Royal treatment!

La Borde guesthouse www.coterempart.com

50 51 NOT Les Lucioles de Montagny, CITY GLAM

TO BE MISSED GLAM CHIC in the Côte Chalonnaise GLAM Yet another transformation. This former monastic inn Authenticity and chic go hand in hand in Burgundy. has been turned into a sumptuous mansion house. Moulin du Coq in : The proof is all the fantastic places we have discovered during our city walks. What comes to With its covered gallery, its magnificent Burgundian Calm and Refinement roof and its designer rooms, guests are really spoilt mind? Terrasses in Tournus, where Amandine and for choice. Paul reserved the «Angélique» room for Along the wine road, one quiet little retreat near Jean-Michel Carrette (a one-star Michelin chef) us, designed by Viviani. I was in heaven! Nuits-Saint-Georges is the Moulin du Coq. The have breathed new life into their establishment. fully renovated building from 1830 has been www.lesluciolesdemontagny.com It’s handsome and modern, all in keeping with the converted into a high-quality inn with a few rooms. I loved the simple but classy décor and history of the place. I got the same impression of Nièvre and Its Château de the indoor pool. Only the very best. the Hôtel d’Europe et d’Angleterre in Mâcon. This Planchevienne: Family Luxury www.lemoulinducoq.fr magnificent building, built in 1804, is living history, Hidden away in a park is this sumptuous residence caught astride modernity and tradition. with mosaic tiles, old wood floors, immense Beaune Printing Works: Dijon also has its standouts: Jean-Pierre Billoux, a fireplaces, wood paneling, rosettes and vintage Industrial and Chic chandeliers. I have always dreamed of living like a Michelin-starred chef, has opened five high-quality princess! In summer, there are plenty of In Beaune, walk through the doors of this former rooms facing the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy. places for lounging: the morning terrace printing house where Marie-Pierre and Sébastien have fulfilled their dream of creating two industrial- www.aux-terrasses.com at the front of the castle, another one décor guest rooms. The mix of materials is fitting: www.hotel-europeangleterre-macon.com by the pool for sunbathing and a third steel, wood, concrete and velvet. A great and www.jeanpierrebilloux.com shaded one behind the castle. I take elegant success! advantage of the calm while the men are www.chambres-de-limprimerie.fr away at Magny-Cours! TRIP PLAN www.chateaudeplanchevienne.com COUNTRY GLAM in the Yonne

Far from urban tumult, we ended up on country Hameau de la Fausse Sauge, backroads in search of the kind of idyllic chic in Mézilles that isn’t just for city dwellers. La Cimentelle is a 9:30 AM > Stroll around the historic center A gem in the Puisaye of Auxerre and take in the Saint-Étienne marvelous example of this. Near Avallon, Vézelay This was our base camp as we explored the cathedral, clock tower and signposted Cadet and Chablis, between Puisaye and Morvan, La Puisaye. The great timber frameworks are an Roussel trail. www.ot-auxerre.fr Cimentelle is a beautiful mansion surrounded by an invitation to dream and guests can even spend the 12:30 PM > Lunch in Irancy at Soufflot, arboreal park. Planned activities include a swim in night in the hamlet’s former dairy! This adorable a great place for tasting local wines. The the pool and a macaron cooking class! little house is as stunning as you can imagine. Le vineyards are magnificent when seen from the Hameau is made up of several buildings road leaving Auxerre. Still in the Yonne vineyards, this time between that house the 5 rooms, which all have www.restaurant-irancy.fr Chablis and Vézelay, there’s another place of note: a little something that makes each one 2:30 PM > Visit the Bailly wine cellars in Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, an amazing place for the Château de la Resle, a residence completely unique. redesigned with the idea of matching trend patterns http://la-fausse-sauge.fr sampling some bubbly. www.bailly-lapierre.fr with contemporary design. Yet again in the vineyards, 4:30 PM > Quick quiet stroll in the Abbaye but this time near Pommard, the Ferme de Marjolet de Reigny, a former Cistercian abbey set on encourages guests to take part in a cooking class Vign’Appart: 35 acres alongside the Cure. or an impromptu tasting right in the 12th-century Residence in the Heart of the Vines www.abbayedereigny.com setting of this completely redesigned open-space This fantastic holiday location is right smack in the 7:00 PM > Return to our hosts, Dominique and Luc, owners of La Demeure de farm. Along the Burgundy Canal, the Chateau middle of the Côte-de-Nuits vineyards. What could . The ambiance is great. Burgundians de Sainte-Sabine dating from the 17th century is be better for a sampling of Nuits-Saint-Georges’ settled in a former monastary. It offers rooms with charms – multiple wine tastings and pastoral strolls sure do know how to live! 12:00 AM > Bedtime in Safran, our modern fittings that nevertheless preserve the in the magical grape-filled fields of Burgundy? At enormous medieval-style room. What authenticity of the place. the tourism office, Justine has a lot an amazing location! of excellent advice. She knows all the www.demeure-de-forterre.com www.lacimentelle.com best places in the area. www.chateaudelaresle.com www.vignappart.com www.lafermedemarjolet.com www.saintesabine.com 52 53 UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers

Take a break from your routine by channeling your inner child and spending the night in an unorthodox place. We’ve climbed trees, opened our roofs to take in the starry night sky, eaten breakfast at the waterside - all to spend UNCONVENTIONAL time with Mother Nature and live like the trappers of old. ACCOMMODATION Hidden Retreats for Nature Lovers SPEND THE NIGHT IN A GIANT COW with a Panoramic View of the Stars The room really is a giant wooden cow, 13 feet tall. You could hardly get more my unconventional than this, the crazy idea of the owners, who wanted to build an eco-lodge in southern Burgundy. Once on the terrace roof of this 375-square-foot bed-and-breakfast, the faves panoramic view and comfortable hammocks drew us into contemplation of the stars. www.divertiparc.com Pursuing their idea to its natural end (as it were), the owners have designed the cow’s tail as a giant slide for speedy trips to the ground floor.

ONE NIGHT IN THE HOBBIT HOUSE of the Domaine de la Pierre Ronde It’s straight out of a Hollywood film set. Hidden in the Morvan forest, on the my banks of Lake Chamboux, is a Hobbit House on a 60-acre plot. faves I never dreamed I would one day sleep in such a place, living like a trapper, but we snuggled together in this cozy nest, wrapped in nature’s embrace. Paul made a fire and I lit candles. It was an experience unlike any other. www.domainedelapierreronde.com

“Œno-tonneaux” Wine-Barrel Cabins The owners specialize in other unconventional lodging too, and have yurts, tepees and trappers’ tents.

54 55 NOT + CUT ALL TIES IN A LAKESIDE AFLOAT ABOARD Fast Facts CABIN OF THE CHÂTEAU A “TOUE CABANÉE” TO BE MISSED D’ETTEVEAUX Sometimes they can only be reached Ludistay, the First Point-to-Point Seeing the cabins balanced over the LODGING by boat! A “Toue cabanée” is a little Accommodation Network in Southern “Œno-tonneaux” Wine-Barrel Cabins water on tall stilts really captured my CLOSE chalet, built out of a transformed in Lugny Burgundy imagination! I quickly dropped my bags TO NATURE former fishing boat, floating peacefully Burgundians are so passionate about their wines Ludistay is an entertaining and unusual accommodation and breathed in the fresh air on the on a 7½-acre lake. It promises the that they even sleep in their wine barrels. Yes, concept that emphasizes proximity to nature. Its terrace. These B&Bs are perched and same comforts as a four-star hotel accommodations are, in short, kind of like combination it’s true. I found these cabins – unconventional ready in the south of Morvan Regional and comes with a kitchenette, to say the least! – in Lugny amid the Mâconnais chalets and tents. Equipped with all the expected comforts, they are set up in five camping areas along Park, set up in “eco-collaboration” with salon, bar, bedroom and bathroom. UNCONVENTIONAL ACCOMMODATION vineyards. The Domaine du Clos du Grand Bois the voie verte (greenway) in southern Burgundy. the woods of the Château d’Etteveaux. has prepared five such “œno-tonneaux,” each able Rediscover yourself I’m organizing a lunch - Paul’s to accommodate up to four people. Added bonus: Ludistay guarantees luggage transfer As these cabins are only accessible doing the cooking - on the terrace from one camp to the next and has rental bikes and unwind, keeping looking out at the forest. Also www.closdugrandbois.fr/oeno-tonneaux by rowboat, I plan to cut all available. ties with the real world and nature as the main topic on the menu: the Domaine des www.ludistay.com Demoiselles is suggesting short decompress. of discussion and fun excursions whenever we www.cabanes-lacustres.fr The “Unusual Room” make landfall. Set in a Barn www.village-toue.fr Fantastic idea: establish a memorable and romantic overnight hideaway in a classic Nivernais barn from 1832. It’s a trip back in time, albeit with modern- day bedding, to enjoy the relaxing sounds of the countryside. www.lesgalants.fr/hebergement-insolite-bourgogne

I’m completely cool with any attempt The Domaine des Galants to reestablish one’s natural rhythms, but also has a perched not at any price. That said, I do like my (and leaning) nest creature comforts, so why not seek out - an off-kilter wooden some chic while I’m here?! That’s why Le UNCONVENTIONAL cubicle-treehouse set 21 feet Domaine de la Pierre Ronde really agrees CHIC above the ground! with me. There, in the Morvan, right alongside Lake Chamboux, I feel right at home in the large and comfortable yurts. I slept in one called “All Is Love” that has a wooden bathtub. www.domainedelapierreronde.com . It was all set up with a romantic candlelit ambiance.

Just 20 or so miles from Dijon, the village of Frenois is home to the Gite du Pont de la Roche. As a perfect welcome to nature lovers, this wood-framed guest cabin sits on the banks of a river traversing a 1½- acre paradise of green and blends into its surroundings. Local activities include catch-and-release fishing, mushroom picking and the kind of absolute calm needed for recharging one’s batteries. www.pont-roche.com

56 57 Unforgettable EVENTS

Knights from the Brotherhood of Tastevin

58 59 JANUARY 01 MARCH 03 > LES MONTGOLFIADES > COUPES MOTO LÉGENDE IN PRENOIS IN CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE This is Europe’s largest motorcycle rally, a truly festive This ballooning and wine festival brings together gathering. www.coupes-moto-legende.fr > SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE > FÊTE DU CRÉMANT ET DU TAPE 50 balloons from all across Europe during the Traditional festival of the patron saint of winegrowers, CHAUDRONS IN CHÂTILLON-SUR- Pentecost weekend. Numerous activities include wine FRANCOS GOURMANDES held the third weekend of January. Festivities, wine Highly colorful festivities centered around bubbly wine. tastings, exhibitions, demonstrations, games, music, > IN TOURNUS tastings and banquets in a different village every year. www.mairie-chatillon-sur-seine.fr entertainment and, of course, hot air balloon flights. A two-day festival of music and gastronomy. www.st-vincent-tournante.fr www.montgolfiades71.com Les Francos Gourmandes invites headliner acts to > HOSPICES DE NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES > FESTIVAL OF THE WORD (FESTIVAL DU perform on stage and in the kitchen, all in a friendly > SAINT-VINCENT TOURNANTE WINE SALE MOT) IN LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE atmosphere by the Saône. Between concerts, visitors DU CHABLISIEN The famous wine auction during which the previous This unusual festival seeks to “reveal the magic and dine in the Allée des Chefs or taste local specialties in The Chablis vineyards also celebrate Saint-Vincent. year’s harvest is sold. Many other activities also take power of words, writing, language, oral tradition and numerous popup wine bars. www.chablis.fr place, like a half marathon through the vineyards, accents...” and turn La Charité-sur-Loire into a kind of www.francogourmandes.fr shows, a chocolate salon, tastings and more. French-speaking capital of the word. www.ot-nuits-st-georges.fr > FESTIVAL (FÊTE DE L’ÂNE) www.festivaldumot.fr IN SENS JULY-AUGUST 07-08 Exhibitions, conferences, carriage rides, medieval food, 03-04 activities and workshops in the Musées de Sens. All MARCH-APRIL MAY-OCTOBER 05-10 public performances. > THE ÉTÉ DES PORTRAITS EXHIBITION www.tourisme-sens.com AT BOURBON-LANCY > INTERNATIONAL THRILLER FILM > MUSICANCY AT THE CHÂTEAU Biennial exhibition of photography in the streets of the FESTIVAL (FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL D’ANCY-LE-FRANC old town. More than 350 photographs on display in DU FILM POLICIER) IN BEAUNE > FESTIVAL ART DANSE IN DIJON This festival was created in 2003 based on a unique 2014. A handful of feature-length films enter into competition. Contemporary dance festival allowing for the concept in the prestigious setting of the Ancy-le-Franc www.letedesportraits.com A jury of prominent personalities awards grand prizes discovery and meeting of the choreographers, dancers castel and gardens. The program includes a tour for both French and international thrillers. and professionals who keep the discipline vital. followed by a music concert. The schedule leaves as LES ZACCROS D’MA RUE www.beaunefestivalpolicier.com > www.art-danse.com much room as possible for creation and improvisation. IN NEVERS http://musicancy.org Circus troupes “invade” the streets of Nevers every FEBRUARY 02 05 summer. And with them they bring shows, concerts MAY and performances, each one crazier than the next! JUNE 06 More than 200 performances are on the program every year to the delight of all audience. > CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE CARNAVAL THEATER IN MAY (THÉÂTRE EN MAI) > http://zaccros.org Second only to Nice as the biggest carnival celebration! IN DIJON By the Saône River, laugh fully at the spectacle of giant Young talent and old masters, actor-authors and > OXFAM FRANCE TRAILWALKER cardboard heads. inventors of unique worlds all gather together to create Oxfam Trailwalker is the world’s greatest sport charity CHALON IN THE STREET www.carnavaldechalon.com atypical and high-quality performances. challenge for teams. Groups of four people walk > (CHALON DANS LA RUE) www.tdb-cdn.com/theatre-en-mai-0 together for 100 kilometers (62 miles) in 30 hours, all in the stunning setting of Morvan Natural Regional Park. This popular and sought-after street-performance > SLOW BUT STEADY (A PAS CONTÉS) > GOURMAND DAYS (JOURNÉES The goal is to raise money in support of Oxfam France’s festival uses the city as its playground. Chalon-sur- IN DIJON GOURMANDES) DU GRAND MORVAN ET DES international solidarity actions. Saône turns into a huge stage where thousands of This is the rendezvous for young and old alike: a festival PAYS DE BOURGOGNE www.oxfamtrailwalker.fr spectators become both the actors and the performers. that brings together artists from around the world and Food fair uniting producers from the Morvan and the There’s theater, concerts, exhibition, poetry and humor companies based in Burgundy all to present their latest Burgundy region. > CATALPA FESTIVAL IN AUXERRE for five days with over 1,000 artists who strut their stuff in front of 350,000 spectators. creations. www.saulieu.fr A new festival in Auxerre that covers all musical styles, www.chalondanslarue.com www.apascontes.fr from rock to French songs. > ROI CHAUSSÉ MEDIEVAL FESTIVAL www.lesilex.fr/catalpafestival IN SEMUR-EN-AUXOIS > JAZZ À COUCHES Every year in late May or early June, Semur-en-Auxois > PARDON OF THE MARINERS (PARDON Jazz in all its fun forms at tented outdoor concerts. becomes a mixed-up Medieval town full of farces, DES MARINIERS) IN SAINT-JEAN-DE-LOSNE www.jazzacouches.com burlesque theater, music and dance, chivalry, games, On the banks of the Saône, Pardon des Mariniers keeps a craft market, taverns and concerts. In addition, the alive the traditional jobs that take place on the water. It’s NUITS PEPLUM D’ALÉSIA Medieval city comes to life with secular costume races on a huge party for boaters and boatmen. > IN ALISE-SAINTE-REINE the Cours Général de Gaulle : www.saone-tourisme.fr A festival of French song held in the natural setting of the - May 31: les courses de la Bague ( race) Roches theater at the historic site of Alésia. - Early June: la course des Chausses (footrace) et la www.lesnuitspeplumdalesia.com course à la Timbale (harness racing). www.tourisme-semur.fr 60 61 > FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL D’OPÉRA > CAJUN AND ZYDECO NIGHTS > TANGO SWING AND SHOULDER BAROQUE IN BEAUNE (NUITS CAJUN ET ZYDÉCO) IN SAULIEU STRAPS (TANGO SWING ET BRETELLES) One of the top European festivals focused on Baroque This festival in the heart of the Morvan is about sharing IN MONTCEAU-LES-MINES music. Enjoyed in the most prestigious places of the the music, dance, films and gastronomy of Louisiana. Music in all its guises, including concerts, most of them wine capital of Burgundy. www.bayouprod.com free, by high-profile artists like Stromae and Têtes www.festivalbeaune.com Raides. This festival is a celebration of musical styles: > HURDY FESTIVAL (FÊTE DE LA VIELLE) from retro to ska via salsa and tango. > FESTIVAL “ GARÇON LA NOTE ” IN www.embarcadere-montceau.fr A free concert every evening at an outdoor cafe in one This is one of the largest festivals of traditional music of several cities in Burgundy. and dance. Over the course of four days, Anost rings NOVEMBER 11 Autun - www.autun-tourisme.com with the sounds of bagpipes, violins, accordions and Auxerre - www.ot-auxerre.fr the hurdy-gurdy. www.ugmm.org Cosne-Cours-sur-Loire - www.ot-cosnesurloire.com > INTERNATIONAL GASTRONOMY Dijon - www.visitdijon.com FAIR (FOIRE INTERNATIONALE ET MUSICAL MEETINGS Sens - www.tourisme-sens.com > GASTRONOMIQUE) IN DIJON (RENCONTRES MUSICALES) DE VÉZELAY Nevers - www.nevers-tourisme.com Attracting nearly 600 exhibitors and 200,000 visitors, Ten excellent concerts are held in the magical setting of the international and gastronomic fair of Dijon is the the basilica, but also in Avallon, and Saint Père > HISTORY SHOW AT THE CHÂTEAU sixth-largest international fair in France and Burgundy’s sous Vézelay. The lively ambiance of the Rencontres DE SAINT-FARGEAU most important economic event. Every year, one Musicales sees the public rubbing shoulders with the In the exceptional setting of the castle and park, 15 > FANTASTIC PICNIC country is given the honor of hosting the event through artists in the streets and gardens of the “Eternal Hill.” At the same time as the Fête de la Gastronomie in the paintings are staged using as many as 600 actors, its culinary specialties. A wine fair also showcases a www.rencontresmusicalesdevezelay.com first weekend of autumn, “Fantastic Picnics” take place like Joan of Arc’s epic, Héribert’s hunt, the French foreign vineyard (South Africa, Portugal). in unexpected places throughout the region. They’re Revolution and American troops passing through www.foirededijon.com Puisaye. All in all, the show covers more > BLUES EN LOIRE FESTIVAL the perfect opportunity to get together with friends and IN LA CHARITÉ-SUR-LOIRE than 1,000 years of history. celebrate the gastronomic heritage of Burgundy. > HOSPICES DE BEAUNE WINE SALE Blues en Loire invites artists from all over the world to www.burgundy-tourism.com www.chateau-de-st-fargeau.com Third weekend of November. leave a “blue note” about the extraordinary heritage of This most famous charity wine sale in the world has La Charité-sur-Loire. > PRESS FESTIVAL existed for more than 150 years. Every year, a celebrity MAILLOTINES NIGHTS (NUITS www.lechatmusiques.com > (FÊTE DE LA PRESSÉE) IN CHENÔVE lends a hand to help sell the best wines. This event MAILLOTINES) IN JOIGNY This vineyard festival takes place every year on the third includes many festivities: street shows, gala dinners Unusual guided tours use music, song, dance and theater weekend of September in the old quarter of Chenôve. and, of course, wine tasting, all in the bustling city. to share this “City of Art and History” in a different light. 09 The grape presses of the Dukes of Burgundy come SEPTEMBER www.beaune-tourisme.fr www.joigny-tourisme.com alive at this unforgettable time of celebration. www.ville-chenove.fr INTERNATIONAL JAZZ MEETINGS THE MEDIEVAL DAYS OF TONNERRE > > (RENCONTRES INTERNATIONALES D’JAZZ) IN Every two years in even years only, locals from the JULY-OCTOBER 07-10 NEVERS Yonne turn back the clock to the Middle Ages. The OCTOBER 10 The capital of the Nièvre resonates with jazzy sounds. streets of Tonnerre come to life with dancers, musicians, It’s an intimate and friendly festival. craftsmen and more. FESTIVAL MUSICAL DES GRANDS www.neversdjazz.com > www.lesmedievalesdetonnerre.org CRUS DE BOURGOGNE IN CÔTE-D’OR, SAÔNE- > LES AUTOMNALES DE POMMARD ET-LOIRE AND YONNE This fun family wine festival is all about discovering the TRUFFLE MARKET (MARCHÉ AUX MUSIC FESTIVAL UNDER THE VAULTS > Combine music and wine – that’s what this festival is all > Pommard appellation. Festival activities include wine TRUFFES) IN NOYERS-SUR-SEREIN (FESTIVAL MUSIQUES EN VOÛTES) about. Chablis, Noyers-sur-Serein, Meursault, Gevrey- tastings, cellar visits and vineyard walks. Fans of black gold meet together in one of the most This traveling festival offers chamber music concerts in Chambertin and Cluny are the scenes of around 50 www.beaune-tourisme.fr beautiful village in France, located in the Yonne. exceptional Romanesque settings in the four Burgundian concerts and 30 events focusing on wine. www.noyers-et-tourisme.com departments. www.bourgogne-tourisme.com > TRIBE FESTIVAL (TRIBU FESTIVAL) IN DIJON www.quatuormanfred.com Created in 1999, this festival offers Burgundians a musical tour of the world by inviting you to discover a DECEMBER 12 AUGUST 08 > AWARANDA FESTIVAL IN IGUERANDE multitude of musical expressions. Awaranda is the Gallic word for Iguérande. It means www.tribufestival.com “a border location marked by a major river.” This > LES GLORIEUSES DE BRESSE IN LOUHANS festival features atypical concerts (hurdy-gurdy, lute), The volaille de Bresse festival takes place in mid- “AUGUSTODUNUM” IN THE ROMAN > performances and other activities. December. Four dates in four Bresse cities, including a THEATER OF AUTUN www.arawanda.fr festive weekend in Louhans, culminate with the annual A grand historical spectacle that plunges spectators AOC poultry beauty contest. into the time of the Romans and Gauls. www.glorieusesdebresse.com www.autun-tourisme.com

62 63 All Roads Lead to... It’s easily reached by road too As a result of the N6’s many years as one of France’s most important trunk roads passing Burgundy through the heart of Burgundy, Beaune has emerged as a major European road junction. New highways have increased access, including the A77 serving Nevers, the A40 to Burgundy’s location could hardly be better, right at the heart of Europe the Alps and the A39 which crosses Bresse. and just 90 minutes from Paris by train. In fact, France’s network of high-speed trains (TGV) provides fast and frequent service from Paris to Direct train (TGV) connection from a number of Burgundian cities. Roissy Charles de Gaulle Airport CDG Airport > Dijon or Le Creusot- Montceau-Montchanin every evening of the week.

Dijon or Le Creusot-Montceau- Montchanin > CDG Airport every morning of the week.

TGV Rhin-Rhône Map credit: ©Divine Comédie/Laura Margueritte Zurich > Dijon in 2½ hours Basel > Dijon in 1½ hours

Other connections on the TGV Lyria Lausanne > Dijon in 2 hours Bern > Dijon in 3 hours

+ For information and reservations, visit www.raileurope.com

NEARBY AIRPORTS > Dole Dole Jura is easily reached in just 40 minutes from Dijon (via the A39) and 35 minutes from Beaune (on the A36). www.aeroportdolejura.com > Paris (Roissy Charles de Gaulle and Orly) > (Saint-Exupéry) > Basel-Mulhouse (EuroAirport) > Geneva (Cointrin) Dijon, the capital city, is an important rail hub, with TGV connections from Paris, Lorraine, Lausanne, Lille, Lyon and the Mediterranean (Marseille, Nice, Montpellier). The Rhine-Rhone TGV also wheels in at high velocity from Franche-Comté and Alsace allowing for easy access from Switzerland and .

64 65 Véronique Beigenger Press Officer [email protected] Tel : +33(0)3 80 280 298

Véronique Beigenger is your press officer and your first point of contact in Burgundy. Smiling, she bends over backwards to make you feel welcome in this beautiful Burgundian region, whether you’re alone or part of a group.

The website www.bourgogne-tourisme-pro.com includes a media center through which press releases and media kits can be found and downloaded. See you soon in Burgundy!

Also look for us on Facebook and Twitter by visiting www.burgundy-tourism.com

Legal Notices

Editorial Director: Graphic Design: Didier Martin, President of Bourgogne Tourisme Delphine Ormancey, Un Brin Graphik Publisher: Bourgogne Tourisme Illustrations: Sarah Humblin BP 20623, 21006 Dijon, France Tel: +33 (0)3 80 280 280 Photos: Alain Doire, Bourgogne Tourisme www.bourgogne-tourisme.com Printer: Manufacture des deux Ponts, 5 rue des Condamines, 38320 Bresson, France Design: Divine Comédie Translation: Ethan Gelber / Eugenio Raez Editing: Patrick Lebas, Divine Comédie January 2016

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