IN! OUT AND ABOUT IN CAHORS ICONS UNCOVERED W wander through the capital of lot The history of the Citroën 2CV Threeof bottles wine

TRAVEL | FOOD & WINE | CULTURE | history September 2017 | Issue 228

ROAD TRIP Take a golf safari Head for the hills in along the Atlantic coast the Hautes-Pyrénées

wine Green and l Where to stay l Champagne by train l Find a wine festival l Enjoy muscat pleasant Beautiful uncovered

Britain and North America’s URBAN ESCAPES COOK A CLASSIC best-selling magazine about France Explore the Art Deco Perfect Provençal Panisses: splendours of Perpignan A Côte d’Azur favourite £3.99 JURA

The hidden gems of JURA

Love the mountains in summer, but want to escape the crowds? Look east to find outdoor

escapism at its best, says Sophie Gardner-Roberts The Plus Beau Village of Baume-les-Messieurs

hen thinking of French carved from within by cave networks. It Montagnes du Jura, where I was charmed popular, combining the adrenalin rush “Sure we are,” my brother and I laughed, while forest-covered mountains rose on mountain ranges, you is home to cattle-farming folk who have by the natural beauty of the area and the of the mountains at a lower altitude. thinking it was a joke. It was not. Trying either side of us. It was spectacular. We may conjure up images of preserved a heritage of agriculture and treasures it held, hidden from the One such via ferrata scrambling route to ignore the jolt of fear in our stomachs, carried on, gaining confidence with every the towering summits and artisanal production in the high pastures. well-trodden path of summer tourism in is located on the southern edge of we began the ascent in the sweltering step, stopping occasionally to drink water W U R ISME TO mysterious valleys of the Alps, the jagged You will find ever-changing scenery the French mountains. the regional park, right by the border heat, Étienne leading the way. and enjoy the views. It was a physically peaks of the Pyrénées or the ancient that brings a surprise at every turn of the The are a defined O M T É with Switzerland. Little metal footholds were bolted into tiring yet thrilling ascent. We reached the volcanic domes of the Massif Central. twisting mountain roads. You will cross holiday area that covers the Haut-Jura the cliff, providing firm grips and steps base of the upper fort relatively quickly, Less familiar are the Jura Mountains, the paths of cyclists, walkers and bikers, regional park and three départements: Thrilling ascent for our hands and feet as we climbed at feeling hot and bothered, but happy and a natural eastern border between France and perhaps the occasional herd of cows. Doubs and Jura in Bourgogne-Franche- Just outside Bellegarde-sur- a steady pace. Suddenly, Étienne stopped giddy from excitement. and Switzerland. Here lies a fascinating You will eat your way through hearty Comté and in Auvergne-Rhône- perches Fort l’Écluse, an old fortified and hooked his safety line on to one of Those who are not keen on vertical NC H E-C RA NE-F O U RGOG mountain range, a sort of offshoot of cuisine and traditionally made cheeses, Alpes. It is a natural playground for bastion overlooking the River Rhône. the rigid staples sticking out of the rock ascents will find plenty of gentler the Alps, with lower summits but whose recipes remain a well-kept secret. active travellers who love to hike, cycle, I was peering up at it, pleasantly taking and sat comfortably into his harness. activities. I enjoyed a pleasant walk breathtaking landscapes. The land is You may even discover the truth behind swim, paddle or climb. in the scenery, when Étienne, our guide “Enjoy the view!” he grinned. Doing through the wooded landscapes of the dotted with blue lakes, small villages and the legendary absinthe spirit. As the Jura range is relatively modest from Rock’n Jump Adventure, pointed at the same, we turned away from the cliff Pertes de la Valserine in Bellegarde. historical forts. Peaks rise dramatically, These were just some of my in height, climbing and other rock the upper fort some 200 metres above to take in the jaw-dropping panorama. A path follows the River Valserine before creating bucolic valleys, while the earth is experiences on a packed tour of the activities such as via ferrata are very p h: MIC H EL J O LY/B Photogra and said: “That’s where we’re going.” The Rhône glinted pale blue down below, the waters pour into impressive canyons ➳

30 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 31 JURA that have been shaped by erosion. in a reculée, a geological term designating impressive as they contain spectacular It makes a perfect picnic spot and is a narrow but deep valley that ends stalagmite and stalactite formations, a great place to slow down and enjoy in a natural cul-de-sac. including a ‘cascade’ which looks as if the surrounding nature. Access to the caves is by a metal the running water had frozen instantly. The summer heat was intense, so, later staircase hugging the cliff, as the entrance Visitors can take a guided tour, or go it in the trip, I was relieved to stop in is not level with the ground. The guided alone with the help of a waterproof Saint-Point-Lac, a charming commune on tour lasts about an hour and takes booklet inviting stops at certain points to the banks of Lac Saint-Point, France’s visitors through a network of galleries read the explanations. The visitors’ centre third-largest natural lake. After a lengthy emerging into large, cavernous ‘rooms’. has plenty of amenities and holds swim, I watched people pass by the small Some sections are very low and narrow, educational workshops where children beach in kayaks and canoes, while sails so you have to bend over to complete learn about archaeology, pottery and from boats further out flashed white. the visit, although our young guide, even archery. The lake reflected the vivid blue of the Pierre, was very accommodating sky, edged by dark forests. Hotels and with all the visitors. Cheese galore villages clustered on the banks but all The cave was discovered in 1610 and Once you have burned all those calories was quiet, except for the soft splashes of explored properly from 1893-1895 by climbing mountains, diving in lakes and water from swimmers and paddles. Alfred Martel, considered the founder of exploring the underworld, you will be modern speleology. It boasts impressive pleased to know that the local cuisine Spectacular setting formations and a jittery resident bat consists mainly of delicious cheeses. The area’s beauty is not limited to nature. population, but the simplicity of the The region’s claim to fame, Comté, The Plus Beau Village of Baume-les- installations – metal steps and clever has a fascinating background. The first Messieurs is nestled deep in a lush valley lighting – allowed us to take in fully records of production date from the and encased by the spectacular Cirque de the grandeur of the caves and its ancient Middle Ages, when farmers pooled Baume; its abbey and quaint houses are fault lines. resources, particularly milk, to have as charming as can be. In a different style, the Grottes du enough food for the winter. The amount The abbey was founded in the 9th Cerdon, in Ain, are perhaps more of milk they collected enabled them to ABOVE: The River Valserine in full flow near Bellegarde; LEFT, FROM TOP: The Château de Joux; Sophie nears the end of her via ferrata climb century and it was from here that, in 910, Bernon set out to become the first Abbot make large wheels of cheese. Comté is Employees, we are told, think it makes in the 19th century because of high Swiss of Cluny. The next 1,000 years saw still produced in the same collaborative them rather euphoric. taxes. The drink became hugely popular the abbey swing between decline and way, using milk from several farms to The Jura Mountains are home to from around 1830 after French troops, regeneration, with its peak being reached make each wheel; you need 400 litres to several cheese AOCs: Comté (since having used absinthe to purify water in in the 16th and 17th centuries. make a 35-40-kilogram Comté cheese. 1958), Mont d’Or, Morbier and the the colonies, returned home and The architecture reflects the different Perhaps the best place to understand less-well-known Bleu de Gex. The latter introduced it to the public. periods and features a beautiful medieval the process is Fort Saint-Antoine. is a creamy blue cheese which is only By 1900, the golden age of cabarets, sculpted doorway. The 19th-century building lies partially made in four appellations. One of them, French can-can and artists’ parties, I happened to be there on underground (beneath six to eight metres La Fromagerie de l’Abbaye in Chézery, is Pontarlier had 25 distilleries and 111 a legislative election day and the of earth) and was barely used for its open to the public. Thanks to a raised bistros serving the aperitif. Consumption village square was busy, but intended military purpose. Marcel Petite, platform with glass walls, visitors can was so high that people were falling ill, overall, the village appears DID YOU KNOW? a successful Comté producer from nearby watch the cheese makers at work. Milk even becoming blind. At the outbreak of frozen in time, with old stone You can recognise a good Pontarlier, recognised the fort’s potential comes from Montbéliarde cows, which World War I, the wine industry and houses, lined with brightly Comté by a colour-coded – with its constant temperature of around graze high up in the mountains, eating political lobbies fought to get rid of the coloured roses, in quiet band, stuck on to the crust: 8°C and 80-90 per cent humidity – as the flowers that give the cheese a peppery drink. In March 1915, absinthe was cobbled streets. brown means it scored ideal place to age his cheeses, and took taste. It is aged for a minimum of three banned in France and the myth grew up Another testimony to times 12-13/20, green 15-20/20. over the premises in 1966. Today, weeks and holes are poked through about the spirit’s lethal qualities. past is the Château de Joux, 100,000 wheels of Comté age slowly in the top to let the air reach the centre Another age started, that of illegal perched precariously on every nook and cranny. and allow fermentation. absinthe production and clandestine

a high cliff overlooking the village of La v en t u r e You get to taste one of Marcel Petite’s It was strangely mesmerising to watch consumption. Producers in Switzerland Cluse-et-. The drive up winding most popular cheeses, a creamy the workers plop the lumps of milk into made absinthe, under names such as ‘lait roads is worthwhile for the panoramic jump a d 12-month-old Comté, during the guided buckets and place plastic letters on the de vache’ or ‘lait de tigre’, until 2005 when views. The fort itself is bare inside, visit. The highlight is the large Cour soft cheese so that GEX is engraved in the the ban was lifted. The French had to ➳ although it has an interesting history as n S; c k’ ro d’Honneur, which shelters crust once the cheese has aged enough. a state prison, with famous inmates thousands of Comté wheels, One of the more mysterious including revolutionary leader Count all neatly aligned on products of the Jura mountains Mirabeau and Toussaint L’Ouverture, wooden shelves. A strong is absinthe, the once-illicit, MORE BE RT DNE R - RO GAR who led a slave revolt in Haiti. smell of ammonia, DID YOU KNOW? highly alcoholic ‘green fairy’ ONLINE I revelled in exploring the outdoors, O P H IE secreted naturally by notorious for pushing artists Bleu de Gex was the but also had the chance to discover the the aging cheeses, to madness. The spirit was More ideas for walking holidays in France favourite cheese of the region’s underground treasures. The caves catches you by surprise invented in Switzerland but www.completefrance.com/travel/walking- Holy Roman Emperor in-france of Baume-les-Messieurs are tucked away p hS: S Photogra but you get used to it. mass-produced in Pontarlier Charles V (1500-1558).

32 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com www.completefrance.com FRANCE MAGAZINE 33 wait until 2011 for absinthe to be legalised, but the drink retains some of its mystique and sense of danger. Today, absinthe is celebrated as part of the local heritage and a symbol of Franco-Swiss collaboration. The Route de l’Absinthe crosses the border from Pontarlier to the Val-de-Travers, the heart of absinthe country. The Distillerie Les Fils d’Émile Pernot, the most important producer in the early 1900s, still stands today in La Cluse-et-Mijoux. You can visit the distillery for free and buy some ABOVE: Classic absinthe labels at the Distillerie Les Fils d’Émile Pernot in Pontarlier of its iconic bottles; the family-run business has revived the art-deco labels, climbing the peaks or wandering around hesitation, as although I would love you producing some beautiful designs from the villages. If, like me, you do not ski to discover this underrated area of France, the golden age of absinthe. but love the mountains, you will find part of me also hopes to preserve its Tasting the local produce is as much happiness in the forests, lakes and valleys. authenticity by keeping its right to remain an exploration of the Jura Mountains as I share my experiences with some one of l’Hexagone’s best-kept secrets.

Francofile Enjoy the outdoor life in the Jura Mountains getting there village school into The food is exquisite and By rail: Sophie travelled a boutique B&B where the service very friendly. with Voyages-SNCF. The each room has its own journey from London to atmosphere and decor, Auberge de l’Abbaye Pontarlier via Paris and then reminding guests of their 47 Place des Anciens on to Frasne takes about school days. Rooms from Combattants 8hr (tel: 0844 848 5848, €90, breakfast included. 01500 Ambronay voyages-sncf.com). Car hire Tel: (Fr) 4 74 46 42 54 is available from Pontarlier WHERE TO EAT aubergedelabbaye- with Europcar (europcar. Sophie dined at: ambronay.com co.uk). See page 25 for La Mainaz One-Michelin-star ABOVE: Comté cheeses maturing at Fort Saint-Antoine other travel information. Route du restaurant where chef Ivan Le Creux de La Mainaz Lavaux serves refined you can take the route Grottes de Baume-les- WHERE TO STAY 01170 Gex dishes using local and on your own, as it is open Messieurs Sophie stayed at: Tel: (Fr) 4 50 41 31 10 seasonal produce (fish and to anyone. If you choose 39210 Baume-les-Messieurs L’Ecrin du Lac la-mainaz.com vegetables, but not meat). a guided via ferrata, Rock’n Tel: (Fr) 3 84 48 23 02 2 Route de Malpas Beautiful four-star hotel There is no à la carte; the Jump Adventure provides baumelesmessieurs.fr 25160 Saint-Point-Lac with two restaurants at an friendly and unpretentious the climbing gear. Prices Adults €8.50, 6-12s €5. Tel: (Fr) 3 81 69 67 47 altitude of 1,250 metres, staff explain the no-choice from €40. l-ecrin-du-lac.fr with breathtaking views of menu at the table. Tel: (Fr) 6 77 89 00 04 Grottes du Cerdon Comfortable family-run B&B Lac Léman (Lake Geneva), rockn-jump-adventure.com Parc de loisirs housed in a renovated and Mont Blanc on the WHERE TO VISIT préhistoriques farmhouse 350 metres from horizon. Young chef Mathieu Fort l’Écluse via ferrata Fort Saint-Antoine 01450 Labalme Lac Saint-Point and its Sagardoytho oversees both Route de Genève, Longeray Cave d’affinage Tel: (Fr) 4 74 37 36 79 small beach. Doubles the gastronomic restaurant 01200 Léaz Marcel Petite grotte-cerdon.com from €80. La Table de la Mainaz (mains If you have you own gear Fort de Saint-Antoine Adults from €9.50, S from €48) and the more (harness, snap hooks, straps 25370 Saint-Antoine 4-12s €6.50. La Maison d’Ambronay laid-back Brasserie Le and helmets) and are Tel: (Fr) 3 81 49 14 34 46 Grande Rue Panorama (mains from €23). experienced at climbing, comte-petite.com Distillerie Les Fils BE RT DNE R - RO GAR 01500 Ambronay d’Émile Pernot Tel: (Fr) 7 82 32 90 79 TOURIST INFORMATION: Montagnes du Jura, tel: (Fr) 3 81 25 54 55, montagnes-du- 18-20 Le Frambourg O P H IE lamaisondambronay.fr jura.fr/en; Bourgogne-Franche-Comté tourisme, tel: (Fr) 3 81 25 0800, 25300 La Cluse-et-Mijoux Owner Nathalie Schlienger en.bourgognefranchecomte.com; Ain tourisme, ain-tourisme.com; Jura tourisme, tel: (Fr) Tel: (Fr) 3 81 39 04 28

has transformed the 3 84 87 08 88, jura-tourism.com; Doubs tourisme, tel: (Fr) 3 81 21 29 99, doubs.travel fr.emilepernot.fr p hS: S Photogra

34 FRANCE MAGAZINE www.completefrance.com