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2012 Laismouraomiguel.Pdf UNIVERSIDADE DE SÃO PAULO FACULDADE DE FILOSOFIA, LETRAS E CIÊNCIAS HUMANAS DEPARTAMENTO DE GEOGRAFIA PROGRAMA DE PÓS-GRADUAÇÃO EM GEOGRAFIA HUMANA TESE DE DOUTORADO A BIODIVERSIDADE NA INDÚSTRIA DE COSMÉTICOS: contexto internacional e mercado brasileiro Laís Mourão Miguel Tese apresentada ao Programa de Pós-Graduação em Geografia Humana do Departamento de Geografia da Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas da Universidade de São Paulo para a obtenção do título de Doutor em Geografia Orientador: Prof. Dr. Wanderley Messias da Costa São Paulo 2012 DEDICATÓRIA A minha mãe, Mara, e irmã, Maysa, por todo amor e apoio. Ao meu pai, Adonis, e a minha querida avó, Maria Ignêz, com muita saudade. AGRADECIMENTOS Expresso aqui meus agradecimentos a todos que contribuíram de algum modo na execução deste trabalho. Ao Prof. Dr. Wanderley Messias da Costa, orientador e amigo, por toda confiança e dedicação na orientação da tese de doutorado. À Fundação de Amparo à Pesquisa do Estado de São Paulo (FAPESP) que concedeu uma bolsa, tornando possível o desenvolvimento pleno de diversas etapas de trabalho. À Coordenação de Aperfeiçoamento de Pessoal de Nível Superior (CAPES) pelo apoio financeiro para a realização do estágio de Doutorado-Sanduíche em Paris e à Profª. Drª. Martine Droulers que me recebeu no Institut des Hautes Études de l’Amérique Latine (IHEAL)/Université Paris III - Sorbonne Nouvelle durante o período de estudos em Paris. Agradeço a todos os representantes das empresas, técnicos, pesquisadores e professores das Universidades, Centros e Institutos de Pesquisa que me receberam e colaboraram nas etapas de trabalho de campo, em especial ao Luiz Gustavo Martins da Associação Brasileira de Cosmetologia (ABC) e da empresa Mapric, ao Ulisses Sabará e à Ingrid Simkus Ramos da Beraca Sabará, à Cristiane de Moraes da Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT), ao Eric Chaisse do CRIEPPAM, e à Maud Reboul da L’Occitane en Provence, à Elisabeth Vidal da FranceAgrimer e ao Christian Gazquez e Giovanna Restivo do Pôle de Compétitivité Parfums, Arômes, Senteurs, Saveurs (PASS). A minha mãe por toda compreensão, incentivo e amor, como também aos meus familiares e, especialmente, à Maysa, irmã e companheira por toda vida. Ao Fumio Nishiyama por todas as conversas produtivas que tanto me ajudaram ao longo desta jornada. Agradeço, também, à Circe Inês Dietz e Marinalva Lima, pelo apoio. Aos amigos Rafael Faleiros Pádua e Adrien Rouillon, Graziela Luz Castello, Ligia Amstalden Rubega e, principalmente, à Maysa Mourão Miguel, que generosamente colaboraram em algumas etapas do trabalho. Aos professores do Departamento de Geografia da FFLCH/USP, especialmente à Profª. Drª Ana Fani e ao Prof. Dr. Hervé Théry. E, também, aos professores membros da banca de qualificação, Prof. Dr. Márcio Cataia e Prof. Dr. Fabio Betioli Contel, que contribuíram com sugestões importantes para o desenvolvimento da pesquisa. Finalmente, mais uma vez, agradeço a TODOS que apoiaram na realização e conclusão desta tese de doutorado. RESUMO MIGUEL, Laís Mourão. A Biodiversidade na Indústria de Cosméticos: contexto internacional e mercado brasileiro. 2012. 259f. Tese (Doutorado em Geografia) – Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2012. As transformações recentes no perfil dos mercados de consumo de cosméticos, aliadas aos avanços das pesquisas em biotecnologia, têm propiciado novas oportunidades para diversos segmentos industriais contemporâneos. Uma das inovações representativas desse processo está associada ao desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos baseados na crescente utilização da biodiversidade de origem vegetal. Tendo como base geral as relações entre a biodiversidade, a biotecnologia e a bioindústria, o objetivo central deste trabalho consiste em analisar algumas experiências em curso na produção de cosméticos derivados de diversos tipos de ativos naturais e, ao mesmo tempo, avaliar as tendências e os desafios representados por esse segmento industrial. Constituem objeto de levantamento empírico, um grupo selecionado e representativo desse segmento de indústrias de diferentes portes instaladas no Brasil, destacando-se aquelas localizadas no estado de São Paulo, onde ocorre atualmente a sua maior concentração, e também na região de Provence-Alpes-Cotê D’Azur, localizada na França. São examinadas sob essa perspectiva, também, algumas experiências internacionais mais conhecidas e que têm se destacado no mercado mundial de cosméticos justamente pela sua liderança e seu pioneirismo nessa modalidade de inovação. Palavras Chave: Cosméticos, Biodiversidade, Biotecnologia, Bioindústria, Inovação. ABSTRACT MIGUEL, Laís Mourão. Biodiversity in Cosmetics Industry: international context and the Brazilian market. 2012. 259f. Thesis (Doutorate in Geography) – Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2012. The recent changes in the profile of consumer markets for cosmetics, allied to advances in biotechnology research have provided new opportunities for several contemporaneous industries segments. One of the representative innovations of this process is associated to the development of cosmetic products based on the growing use of the biodiversity with vegetal origin. Based on the relationships between biodiversity, biotechnology and the bio-industry, the objective of this thesis is to analyze some experiences in progress about the production of cosmetics derived from various types of natural assets and, at the same time, evaluate trends and challenges represented by this industrial segment. Constitute object of empirical study, a selected and representative group of this industries segment from different sizes located in Brazil, especially those located in the state of São Paulo, where there is currently its higher concentration, and also in the region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur, located in France. Some of the most know international experiences have been examined from this perspective, as well. Those that have been prominent in the global cosmetics market precisely for its leadership and its pioneering on this type of innovation. Key Words: Cosmetics, Biodiversity, Biotechnology, Bioindustry, Innovation. RÉSUMÉ MIGUEL, Laís Mourão. La Biodiversité dans l’Industrie des Cosmétiques: contexte international et marché brésilien. 2012. 259f. Thèse (Doctorat en Géographie) – Faculdade de Filosofia, Letras e Ciências Humanas, Universidade de São Paulo, São Paulo, 2012. Les récents changements dans le profil des marchés de consummation des cosmétiques, alliés aux progrès des recherches en biotechnologie, offrent de nouvelles opportunités pour différents secteurs industriels. Une des innovations représentatives de ce processus est liée au développement croissant de produits cosmétiques basés sur l'utilisation de la biodiversité végétale. En se basant sur les relations entre la biodiversité, la biotechnologie et la bioindustrie, l’objectif de ce travail est d’analyser certaines expériences actuelles de production de cosmétiques dérivés plusieurs types de actifs naturels et, dans le même temps, d’évaluer les tendances et défis posés par ce secteur industriel. L’étude expérimentale porte sur un groupe représentatif d’industries de ce secteur, de tailles variées et installées au Brésil, en particulier celles situées dans l'état de São Paulo, où elles sont actuellement le plus concentrées, et aussi dans la region Provence-Alpes-Cotê D’Azur, situé en France. Sont également examinées dans cette perspective quelques expériences internationales plus connues et qui jouent un grand rôle sur le marché mondial des cosmétiques précisément pour leur primauté et leadership sur cette voie d’accès à l’innovation. Mots-clés: Cosmétiques, Biodiversité, Biotechnologie, Bioindustrie, Innovation. SUMÁRIO INTRODUÇÃO ........................................................................................................ 1 CAPÍTULO 1 - A INDÚSTRIA DA BELEZA .......................................................... 10 1.1 A Constituição da Indústria da Beleza .............................................................. 11 1.2 Os Novos Pilares da Indústria de Cosméticos: juventude, beleza e bem-estar 22 1.3 A Valorização da Biodiversidade e Sustentabilidade Ambiental na Indústria de Cosméticos ............................................................................................................. 40 CAPÍTULO 2 - A INDÚSTRIA DE HIGIENE PESSOAL, PERFUMARIA E COSMÉTICOS: panorama internacional e nacional do setor ........................... 57 2.1 O Mercado Mundial e Brasileiro ........................................................................ 63 2.2 O Panorama Internacional ................................................................................ 78 2.3 A Indústria de Cosméticos no Brasil ................................................................. 83 2.4 Normatização, Certificação e Legislação .......................................................... 93 CAPÍTULO 3 - OS CIRCUITOS DE INOVAÇÂO DOS COSMÉTICOS: desenvolvimento de novos produtos e processos industriais ........................ 98 3.1 Tecnologias da vida: uso da informação genética e biológica ......................... 99 3.2 Pesquisa e Desenvolvimento (P&D) de Ingredientes Ativos .......................... 107 3.3 As Matérias-Primas e os Insumos: dos tradicionais aos inovadores .............. 115 3.4 Tendências de P&D em cosméticos: nanocosméticos, cosmecêuticos, nutracêuticos e nutracosméticos .........................................................................
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